From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Apr  1 17:15:08 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:15:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 weight distribution?
Message-ID: <4BB5370C.5070108@blacksburg.net>

I'm doing some front suspension ground clearance calculations.  Does 
anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of a stock TR4?

tia

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Apr  1 17:25:14 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Message-ID: <4BB5396A.9050207@blacksburg.net>

A friend has a newly rebuilt, warmed-over TR4 he's installing in his 
TR3.  The engine builder installed a Mallory dual point distributor but 
provided no instructions.  Does anyone have the setup instructions for 
setting the initial timing and how to set the second set of points?

tia, again

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Thu Apr  1 19:39:45 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:39:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Message-ID: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Thu Apr  1 19:49:35 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 02:49:35 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Message-ID: <20100401.224935.29502.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

Instructions are available at:
http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/Single_Dual_point.pdf

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:25:14 -0400

A friend has a newly rebuilt, warmed-over TR4 he's installing in his
TR3.  The engine builder installed a Mallory dual point distributor but
provided no instructions.  Does anyone have the setup instructions for
setting the initial timing and how to set the second set of points?

tia, again

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tpettenati at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  2 07:09:14 2010
From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 07:09:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <624871.19678.qm@web180315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Jim,

The PO of my spit told me of a similar problem he had with the car.  He
went through the same attempted fixes, balancing the tires, replacing the
u-joints, having the driveshaft balanced.  The final cure was replacing the
driveshaft.  I'm not positive but I think the new shaft is fixed length, where
as the old one was a slip joint.  I'll take a look under the car tonight and
let you know for sure.

My old Haynes manual shows both types of driveshaft,
the 'frictionless'  (slip joint) and the solid propeller shaft.  I'm not sure
I understand the need for a slip joint with a fixed rear diff.  Here is what
is listed for lengths of the different shafts.  Just in case you decide to try
a fixed length shaft.

BRD solid            41.62" (105.72 cm)
BRD
frictionless    41.37" (105.09 cm)
BRD frictionless    38.00" (96.52 cm)
(w/
overdrive)   

Cheers,
Tim

----- Original Message ----
From: Norlin
Engineering <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu,
April 1, 2010 7:39:45 PM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the
chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it
sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't
really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's
in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing
the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost
undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they
suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers
were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've
searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The
factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of
death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old
shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tpettenati at yahoo.com

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Fri Apr  2 09:15:59 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:15:59 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Message-ID: <20100402.121559.11475.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com>

When I raced a Spit, I had a similar issue.  Checked driveshaft balance and
still had the problem.  I do not recall if it was a slip joint driveshaft?  My
car had a lot of rear camber and I just attributed the vibration to the axle
u-joints running at such an angle.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Norlin Engineering" <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:39:45 -0700

Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.



____________________________________________________________
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From robertten1 at aol.com  Fri Apr  2 11:44:59 2010
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:44:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <8CCA0ABBB423039-1BF4-9C10@webmail-m082.sysops.aol.com>

 Jim -

I just rebuilt my driveshaft last year and no the little barrle bearings
inside the slider joint are not to be found.  I had to order longer ones and
cut them down on an EDM machine, radius and polish the ends.  The size is
3/16" diameter by 3/16" long and note the length cannot vary more than +/-
.0005" or you will run into a problem of sliding it all back together.  New
U-Joints and the hole assembly balanced and it looks and runs like new.  I'll
admit I haven't had a chance to make a long run at high rpm's but so far it is
a vast improvement from before the work.

I did check industrial supply shops, industrial bearing suppliers and several
bearing specialty repair shops.  All said the same thing ... order larger and
have them modified to size.

Best of luck,
Bob T.
'64 Spit GT autocrosser








-----Original Message-----
From: Norlin Engineering <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 1, 2010 10:39 pm
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations


Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertten1 at aol.com

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sat Apr  3 08:48:54 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 08:48:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

First off, thanks to all that responded - I never cease to be amazed by the
collective knowledge of this group.

I'll let you know what I decide to do after talking with the owner of the
driveline company on Monday.  He called me Thursday and we talked for over
20 minutes about my driveline.  He's got a personal interest in old race
cars and wants to make this totally right.  It was his opinion that if we
could properly rebuild the original type joint, it would be superior to a
modern spline joint - obviously one man's opinion, but he has been in the
business for a long time.  Anyway, his conversation with me is what started
me down this path.

Thanks again - more later.

Jim

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr  3 19:39:55 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 22:39:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
Message-ID: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>

My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it 
is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
daily driver...

Happy Easter for those who celebrate...

M

From billb at bnj.com  Sat Apr  3 20:31:52 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 17:31:52 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>

Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you like.
Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any more.
On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. How
serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday unless
I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone
thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love
GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling
clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sat Apr  3 20:57:46 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 20:57:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1D0DB9D4CA4D4978B23B58589E48EE59@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

My engine builder provides me with Joe Gibbs break in oil.  Typically run it
for the first race weekend before switching to Redline.  

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 7:40 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it 
is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
daily driver...

Happy Easter for those who celebrate...

M

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr  3 21:52:10 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 23:52:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>

Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local 
stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they 
use for ZDDP).  I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but 
it should be fine without.  The other recommendations are good to but 
probably not locally available.

I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic 
version of the same.  Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs 
or Royal Purple.

Tony Drews

At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
>My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil 
>but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know 
>what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the 
>neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the 
>internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 
>wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought 
>were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I 
>love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on 
>it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
>Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
>M

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Sun Apr  4 06:57:34 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:57:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race weekend.B  If
it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use Rotella-T then switch it out
to VR-1.



After the first weekend I switch to Redline.



aaron



#87 HP Spitfire 1500

Southern Illinois Region SCCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil

Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
use for ZDDP). B I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
it should be fine without. B The other recommendations are good to but
probably not locally available.

I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
version of the same. B Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
or Royal Purple.

Tony Drews

At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
>My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
>but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
>what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
>neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
>internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
>wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
>were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
>love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
>it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
>Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
>M

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr  4 07:17:49 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:17:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <402DA5FC6C4D4691BEB1AC6517B31532@latitudefb1e41>

I use Valvoline VR1 like Tony, but I add the Comp cams additive instead. 
FWIW, my local speed shop carries Joe Gibbs break-in oil, yours may too. I 
work for a John Deere dealership and we carry it too but I haven't tried it 
as it is formulated for diesels. It may very well be suitable.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday 
> unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would 
> just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the 
> additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 
> 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with 
> almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily 
> driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr  4 07:57:57 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 08:57:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>
	<569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100404145744.D417B187662@autox.team.net>

Supposedly, Rotella T has dropped the ZDDP amount in the last couple of years.

- Tony

At 07:57 AM 4/4/2010, fpspitfire at comcast.net wrote:

>I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race 
>weekend.  If it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use 
>Rotella-T then switch it out to VR-1.
>
>
>
>After the first weekend I switch to Redline.
>
>
>
>aaron
>
>
>
>#87 HP Spitfire 1500
>
>Southern Illinois Region SCCA
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
>Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
>
>Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
>stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
>use for ZDDP).  I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
>it should be fine without.  The other recommendations are good to but
>probably not locally available.
>
>I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
>version of the same.  Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
>or Royal Purple.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
> >My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
> >but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
> >what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
> >neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
> >internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
> >wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
> >were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
> >love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
> >it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
> >
> >Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
> >
> >M
>
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Apr  4 08:47:03 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 10:47:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4BB8A667.7030507@blacksburg.net>

On 4/3/2010 10:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but 
> I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what 
> it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors 
> Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to 
> my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had 
> "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought were necessary as 
> the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of 
> great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean 
> inside - original turbo - daily driver...
Mark, I hear ya about wanting to irritate the neighbors, but be sure to 
follow Isky's advice about the oil.  My cam came with their sheet 
recommending Brad Penn, (now going from memory: Valvoline VR-1 
"non-racing" oil, then some grade of Pennzoil?).  Brad Penn is available 
from www.cdoc.com, probably others too.  Valvoline VR-1 (be careful, 
ISTR that there are 2 VR-1 formulations; the one you want says "not for 
street use") which was available at my local Napa store.  If you have 
shops around which cater to the roundy-round crowd, or dragster-types, 
they will surely stock it.  If all else fails and you really want to 
fire it up PDQ, a can of extra ZDDP added to your favorite non-synthetic 
should do fine.  FWIW, a local shop that caters to the straight-line 
crowd wanted $9 for a can of the ZDDP.
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
Thanks, and Happy Easter to you.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From tlizzard at msn.com  Sun Apr  4 09:30:37 2010
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:30:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>

Brad Penn does indeed make a break in oil.

When last I spoke to one of their tech people he said to use it for the
initial start up/ring seating only, then dump it.

Terry Stetler.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Babcock<mailto:billb at bnj.com>
  To: Mark Eginton<mailto:markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 11:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


  Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you
like.
  Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
  used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any
more.
  On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

  > My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
  can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is.
How
  serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday
unless
  I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
  Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives
everyone
  thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
love
  GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it
sparkling
  clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
  >
  > Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
  >
  > M
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>

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From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr  4 09:33:57 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 10:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
  <4BB8A667.7030507@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <F2057E46325740B9B754E1C4033E329E@latitudefb1e41>

The on the shelf VR1 has the ZDDP again. I think oil manufacturers realized 
that modern cars, which would have had emmission components compromised by 
ZDDP, just don't call for straight weight 30,40 and 50 and 20w50 grades. 
When their customers learned about what the lack of ZDDP could/would do to 
flat tappet cams their sales hit the skids as we looked for other oils, so 
they eventually put the ZDDP back in. Check out the shelves and the labels. 
The VR1 bottles often have stickers on them pointing to the fact that they 
put is back. I'm pretty sure that the MSDS sheets online have also been 
updated with this info. For $3.99 a bottle VR1 is a bargain.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> On 4/3/2010 10:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
>> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
>> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
>> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
>> Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
>> I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
>> the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
>> thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
>> SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
>> daily driver...
> Mark, I hear ya about wanting to irritate the neighbors, but be sure to 
> follow Isky's advice about the oil.  My cam came with their sheet 
> recommending Brad Penn, (now going from memory: Valvoline VR-1 
> "non-racing" oil, then some grade of Pennzoil?).  Brad Penn is available 
> from www.cdoc.com, probably others too.  Valvoline VR-1 (be careful, ISTR 
> that there are 2 VR-1 formulations; the one you want says "not for street 
> use") which was available at my local Napa store.  If you have shops 
> around which cater to the roundy-round crowd, or dragster-types, they will 
> surely stock it.  If all else fails and you really want to fire it up PDQ, 
> a can of extra ZDDP added to your favorite non-synthetic should do fine. 
> FWIW, a local shop that caters to the straight-line crowd wanted $9 for a 
> can of the ZDDP.
>>
>> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>>
> Thanks, and Happy Easter to you.
>
> jim
>
> -- 
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Sun Apr  4 12:47:59 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:47:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
Message-ID: <FF29958E3BFE4D7A843CE162344FD1A6@desktop>

I've just purchased 2 cases of this stuff.
Happy Easter
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgRWiRUI-Ps

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr  4 14:23:45 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:23:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
References: <FF29958E3BFE4D7A843CE162344FD1A6@desktop>
Message-ID: <E278FA0232A340C2B187AA9364DF64B3@Bud>

Thanks Charly...I loved it...Happy Easter..Racer Bud spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 11:47 AM
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6


> I've just purchased 2 cases of this stuff.
> Happy Easter
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
>
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgRWiRUI-Ps
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr  4 15:52:26 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 17:52:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
	<BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4BB90A1A.6070002@bright.net>

Terry, right you are.  Also, do not switch immediately to synthetic. 
Even though they start and run new Corvette's on Mobil 1, we cannot get 
the correct bore finish that is on modern engines. Ted


Terry Stetler wrote:
> Brad Penn does indeed make a break in oil.
>
> When last I spoke to one of their tech people he said to use it for the
> initial start up/ring seating only, then dump it.
>
> Terry Stetler.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Bill Babcock<mailto:billb at bnj.com>
>   To: Mark Eginton<mailto:markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
>   Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 11:31 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
>
>
>   Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you
> like.
>   Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
>   used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any
> more.
>   On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
>
>   > My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
>   can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is.
> How
>   serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday
> unless
>   I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
>   Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives
> everyone
>   thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
> love
>   GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it
> sparkling
>   clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>   >
>   > Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>   >
>   > M
>   >
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>   > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>   > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>   > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
> /mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>
>
>   _______________________________________________
>   fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Apr  4 18:44:46 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 20:44:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <015d01cad459$31637560$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, they have a 2.5 gallon can of Rotella
T on sale for $25. $2.50 per quart is pretty reasonable for that oil.
  They also have their own in-house brand called Traveller for $20 for the
same 2.5 gallon can. Decent oil too.
  No financial interest.
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: <fpspitfire at comcast.net>
  To: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
  Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


  > I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race weekend.B
If
  > it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use Rotella-T then switch it
out
  > to VR-1.
  >
  >
  >
  > After the first weekend I switch to Redline.
  >
  >
  >
  > aaron
  >
  >
  >
  > #87 HP Spitfire 1500
  >
  > Southern Illinois Region SCCA
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
  > To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
  > Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
  > Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
  >
  > Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
  > stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
  > use for ZDDP). B I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
  > it should be fine without. B The other recommendations are good to but
  > probably not locally available.
  >
  > I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
  > version of the same. B Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
  > or Royal Purple.
  >
  > Tony Drews
  >
  > At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
  > >My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
  > >but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
  > >what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
  > >neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
  > >internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
  > >wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
  > >were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
  > >love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
  > >it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
  > >
  > >Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
  > >
  > >M
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net

From rocky at spitfire4.com  Sun Apr  4 19:18:20 2010
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 20:18:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <99AE3A55CEEC46AD880C950563CEF88A@rocky>

Everybody's talking brand names, which is fine.

The concept is this -- synthetics are super but are so efficient they do not 
really permit good seating of things like rings, cams, etc. So you use what 
my engine builder calls "mineral oil" (the stuff they pump out of the 
ground) at first. Only takes about one good session -- a race practice, a 
full autocross, etc. Then drain it and put in the synthetic.

When I get a new (rebuilt) engine, I use Valvoline VR1 to start, then go to 
Valvoline Synpower.

Actually, lately I have my engine builder take it to the dyno and tune it 
there, which also works as the break-in. Then the engine delivered to me is 
already broken in and I go straight to the synthetic.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday 
> unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would 
> just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the 
> additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 
> 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with 
> almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily 
> driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Sun Apr  4 19:27:25 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 19:27:25 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Impact's decertification reversed
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>

It seems SFI & Impact Racing (according to Dave Despain on 'WIND TUNNEL' )
have kissed & made up, for the next two years anyway.

Given the source, I suppose the report should be considered credible.

 ( you can relax now Jim... )

Kevin

From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr  4 21:23:16 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:23:16 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Impact's decertification reversed
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2889CC1D-DF3E-496B-9BD5-103C0FAF45E7@bnj.com>

That's no too surprising. It never sounded like Impact was making bad stuff,
just that they weren't buying the official SFI labels. In other words, it was
all about money.

On Apr 4, 2010, at 3:27 PM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote:

> It seems SFI & Impact Racing (according to Dave Despain on 'WIND TUNNEL' )
> have kissed & made up, for the next two years anyway.
>
> Given the source, I suppose the report should be considered credible.
>
> ( you can relax now Jim... )
>
> Kevin
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From GRMTim at aol.com  Mon Apr  5 07:09:20 2010
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:09:20 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Small-bore series update
Message-ID: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>

Guys,

Just wanted to update everyone on our small-bore race series... the series 
kicks off this weekend with a welcome party in an around the food pavilion 
at Roebling Road at 5:00 pm Thursday. Everyone involved with the race weekend 
is welcome to this party, not just small-bore entrants.

We have between 20-30 entrants, so this should be an interesting race 
Sunday morning. Unfortunately, after setting this all up, I won't personally be 
able to race this weekend, as our circulation manager is getting married 
Saturday and I will have to leave Friday night. I will be running the TR3 later 
in the season and as an aside, I plan on taking the Group 44 GT6+ to the VTR 
national meet at Jekyll Island in October.

The second small-bore race is at the Mitty the first weekend in May and I 
will post something separately on that event, as it it really shaping up to 
be something special. Hope to see some of you there.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Apr  5 13:06:24 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:06:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1270490402.21482.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF6F695A53.70529120-ON852576FC.0068CAAD-852576FC.0068F4FB@us.ibm.com>

I'm betting it's Red Bull and STP.
Thanks for the clip.

mike H.

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Mon Apr  5 17:40:05 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 23:40:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] FS: i/o port camcorder mount
Message-ID: <1002758761.12022531270510805664.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have an I/O Port camcorder mount that i don't use and figure someone get use out of it. 



all the mounting stuff is there and the requisite secondardy strap for holding the camcorder 



$80 plus shipping 



aaron 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  5 19:00:33 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 21:00:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Small-bore series update
In-Reply-To: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>
References: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W39F593A63D587E08E87462BA180@phx.gbl>

Well that throw a monkey wrench into the plans :)

Marty

 I plan on taking the Group 44 GT6+ to the VTR
 national meet at Jekyll Island in October.


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Apr  5 20:08:50 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:08:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
	<14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <002a01cad52e$19c5dd50$4d5197f0$@com>

Probably the easiest source of the "rollers" is a donor driveshaft!
Somewhere around here there must be several escaped rollers but I don't know
where to look first.
What is your timeframe and how many do you need?
I am assuming you have the instructions as to how they are assembled
(orientation)?
Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 00:03:40 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 23:03:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <002a01cad52e$19c5dd50$4d5197f0$@com>
Message-ID: <1DB2ACAB57334BFD9B43334283C90762@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

I picked up a "donor" driveshaft today and dropped it off at the shaft shop.
We'll see if it can be fixed or not.


-----Original Message-----
From: Clark W. Nicholls [mailto:cwnfot at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:09 PM
To: 'Norlin Engineering'; FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations


Probably the easiest source of the "rollers" is a donor driveshaft!
Somewhere around here there must be several escaped rollers but I don't know
where to look first. What is your timeframe and how many do you need? I am
assuming you have the instructions as to how they are assembled
(orientation)? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty
GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think."

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 17:49:59 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:49:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
Message-ID: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>

I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
stands ?  thanks   rob

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Apr  6 18:29:54 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 17:29:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <4BBBD202.7050008@greenheart.com>

They seem cool to me.  The basic mechanics of them are the same of a 
pair of iron stands I have owned for years, and they work well.  It sure 
beats some of the older styles where one has to adjust the height with a 
pin, etc.   If I needed a new pair, I'd go for it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

-Justin

Rob wrote:

>I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
>They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
>stands ?  thanks   rob
>
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

From dave at microworks.net  Tue Apr  6 18:30:48 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 17:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <4BBBD238.2050009@microworks.net>

Well...  Since anything you buy at Harbor Freight will be a hammer in a 
year you probably can't go wrong with those jack stands.  Just don't 
crawl under the car with it sitting on them or you might get hammered.  jk

Rob wrote:
> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
>
> _______________________________________________

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 18:36:05 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 17:36:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>

find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just don't 
want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country 
that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer Bud..Spitfire 
#21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
Subject: [Fot] jack stands


>I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
> these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 19:02:50 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<4BBBD238.2050009@microworks.net>
Message-ID: <BDA360E45D0B40D5ADA18FD3C8317262@Bud>

My point exactly!...Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David W. Riddle" <dave at microworks.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Well...  Since anything you buy at Harbor Freight will be a hammer in a 
> year you probably can't go wrong with those jack stands.  Just don't crawl 
> under the car with it sitting on them or you might get hammered.  jk
>
> Rob wrote:
>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>> stands
>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>> these
>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Apr  6 19:15:33 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 18:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
Message-ID: <4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>

I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.   

Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the 
car to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just 
shy of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.

And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.

In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way 
to the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the 
jackstands, I had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly 
under the front valance.

I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple 
zone behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car 
now ever fixed it?)

On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
provided.  : )


--Justin



RACER BUD wrote:

> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
> Bud..Spitfire #21
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>> stands
>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>> less
>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>> using these
>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Tue Apr  6 19:24:43 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:24:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
Message-ID: <01b901cad5f1$1add0f10$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  My thoughts exactly Bud. Most things from Harbor Freight are Chinese.
Trouble is, it's hard to find things made in the good old USA anymore.
  Sigh!
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
  To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


  > find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just
don't
  > want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country
  > that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer
Bud..Spitfire
  > #21
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
  > To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
  > Subject: [Fot] jack stands
  >
  >
  > >I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack
  > >stands
  > > They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling
less
  > > weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone
using
  > > these
  > > stands ?  thanks   rob
  > >
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > fot at autox.team.net
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe:
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 19:30:58 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:30:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>

We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track Record!...RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
> valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
> ever fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar 
> extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. 
> : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>> stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>> less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>>> these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

From niteseeker at mac.com  Tue Apr  6 20:00:39 2010
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:00:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <35F880FB-0042-4F60-A3E1-7DABEB1A5011@mac.com>

They hold up my Spitfire just fine.  Have not used them on any of my heavier vehicles yet.





On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:49 PM, Rob wrote:

> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/niteseeker at mac.com

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:03:40 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <D741E5A60D21478795F14D5A3DF8D5FA@INSPIRON>

That's funny because I do the same thing with the jack or a stack of 4x4's 
that are laying around. The kicker is most likely there will be no warning
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
> valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
> ever fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar 
> extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. 
> : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>> stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>> less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>>> these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:09:56 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:09:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <E717C4C2AFB44401BF1C3BBB56A37BCB@INSPIRON>

But I think there is more than a few of us using the $70.00 light wght. 
aluminum jack from Harbor I have had mine for about 4 years. i never get 
under it and pay pretty close attention when lifting the car Actually I 
don't i trust it come to think of it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
> safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
> To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
> Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
>> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
>> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
>> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
>> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>>
>> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
>> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under 
>> it.
>>
>> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
>> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
>> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
>> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
>> valance.
>>
>> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
>> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
>> ever fixed it?)
>>
>> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
>> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
>> similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
>> provided. : )
>>
>>
>> --Justin
>>
>>
>>
>> RACER BUD wrote:
>>
>>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>>
>>>
>>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>>> stands
>>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>>> less
>>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>>>> using these
>>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Tue Apr  6 20:17:40 2010
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:17:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in the
late sixties and early seventies?
-Ed-

--- On Tue, 4/6/10, RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net> wrote:


From: RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 8:30 PM


We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common
safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track Record!...RB
----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and
odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car to
support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy of the
frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little
hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... at
16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to the
ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I had
accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front
valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone
behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now ever
fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was damaged
and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar extra
cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just don't
want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country that
we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack
stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using
these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net

From adams910 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  6 20:31:28 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:31:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from Salem
Massachusetts would ya'? ....

Rob,

We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. Look
around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the place. This is
a fact.

As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like there
is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than anything that ever
came out of Britain during the '60's

Bob

From dave at microworks.net  Tue Apr  6 20:33:29 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:33:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <4BBBEEF9.7040508@microworks.net>

You got that right.

Crash test of Chinese made 4 door Sedan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHZqcKj7jNM

Crash test of a Smart car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz-s1sIoLhU

RACER BUD wrote:
> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's 
> common safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" 
> <jmwagner at greenheart.com>

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue Apr  6 20:37:04 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON><8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud><4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <B1EAF0980E704BBFAFE5EE1F6E0FA755@latitudefb1e41>

The little notches on aluminum jack stands scare me. Aluminum fractures much 
more readily than steel.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
> safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
> To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
> Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
>> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
>> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
>> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
>> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>>
>> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
>> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under 
>> it.
>>
>> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
>> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
>> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
>> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
>> valance.
>>
>> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
>> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
>> ever fixed it?)
>>
>> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
>> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
>> similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
>> provided. : )
>>
>>
>> --Justin
>>
>>
>>
>> RACER BUD wrote:
>>
>>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>>
>>>
>>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>>> stands
>>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>>> less
>>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>>>> using these
>>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From bluebit at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:37:45 2010
From: bluebit at comcast.net (Jim%20Roelofs)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 02:37:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <1161576851.7620821270607684824.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He
is survived by his beloved wife Janine.



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire,
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more.



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed.

Jim Roelofs
303-862-9371 (h)
303-629-3545 (w)
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred)

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:47:05 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:47:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Jack Stands...
Message-ID: <C2710612FC6E4A7881701D84136B7DC9@Bud>

I guess weve been dumbed down.!
RB

From niteseeker at mac.com  Tue Apr  6 21:02:29 2010
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 22:02:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>

On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:

> Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in the
> late sixties and early seventies?
> -Ed-


Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor Freight tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and had to rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly different.   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping in at a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US for close to the same cost.  

From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr  6 22:03:22 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 00:03:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
Message-ID: <y2kd9f7bd331004062103w463a16b5se393c517749924ac@mail.gmail.com>

Most of the time I'm pretty happy ignoring the US/China tool argument,
buying the cheap tools when I need something disposable or loosable or I'm
just feeling cheap.

I have a few sets of jack stands, all made in china, all steel. For my light
cars, alum. stands are certainly going to hold up. I wouldn't use them under
my truck though...

The one that annoys me most is once having a source for real Milton air line
couplers. The cheap ones just don't fit, and when they do, they leak. And I
don't have a local source for Milton anymore.

Just today's rant.
Bob

"Life sucks and then you die. Then death sucks. This repeats itself until
you reach Nirvana, the ultimate bummer" - MK after one too many beers and
valium.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 11:02 PM, dick ross <niteseeker at mac.com> wrote:

> On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
>
> > Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in
> the
> > late sixties and early seventies?
> > -Ed-
>
>
> Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor Freight
> tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
> But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and had to
> rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly different.
>   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping in at
> a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US for
> close to the same cost.
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  7 05:14:05 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:14:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
	<y2kd9f7bd331004062103w463a16b5se393c517749924ac@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01e901cad643$702a1740$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  It's harder to ignore when Channellock is 15 miles down the road in
Meadville, PA, and friends work there. Or Reed Mfg in Erie (they make vises,
tools , and equipment for plumbing and oil field use) where the wife of the
CEO/owner is a physician friend of mine.
  I hate to say it, but imports from India and Poland are fairly good
quality.
  I guess we have to go with the flow.
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
  To: "dick ross" <niteseeker at mac.com>
  Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 12:03 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


  > Most of the time I'm pretty happy ignoring the US/China tool argument,
  > buying the cheap tools when I need something disposable or loosable or
I'm
  > just feeling cheap.
  >
  > I have a few sets of jack stands, all made in china, all steel. For my
light
  > cars, alum. stands are certainly going to hold up. I wouldn't use them
under
  > my truck though...
  >
  > The one that annoys me most is once having a source for real Milton air
line
  > couplers. The cheap ones just don't fit, and when they do, they leak.
And I
  > don't have a local source for Milton anymore.
  >
  > Just today's rant.
  > Bob
  >
  > "Life sucks and then you die. Then death sucks. This repeats itself
until
  > you reach Nirvana, the ultimate bummer" - MK after one too many beers
and
  > valium.
  >
  > On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 11:02 PM, dick ross <niteseeker at mac.com> wrote:
  >
  > > On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
  > >
  > > > Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff
in
  > > the
  > > > late sixties and early seventies?
  > > > -Ed-
  > >
  > >
  > > Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor
Freight
  > > tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
  > > But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and
had to
  > > rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly
different.
  > >   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping
in at
  > > a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US
for
  > > close to the same cost.
  > >
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > fot at autox.team.net
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  7 05:21:34 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:21:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] wedge
Message-ID: <01f801cad644$7b9ce340$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi, anyone interested in a '76 TR7?
A friend of mine has it and it is for sale. It seems to be in fairly decent
shape. It hasn't been driven in about a year. It's up on Chinese jackstands
for now. (Come on, a little humor never hurt.)
The car is for sale. It's a 5 speed with about 75K on the clock and can be had
for a reasonable price.
Give me a shout if you have an interest.
Bill

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  7 07:25:07 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:25:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON><8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud><4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com><AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
	<z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON>

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys 
"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the 
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and 
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store, 
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from Salem
> Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. Look
> around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the place. This 
> is
> a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there
> is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than anything that 
> ever
> came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

From jameselbe at aol.com  Wed Apr  7 09:27:34 2010
From: jameselbe at aol.com (JAMESELBE)
Date: Wed,  7 Apr 2010 09:27:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <b968e12c.242a.45bd.ab2d.1563e00810c0@aol.com>

It was also fun seeing Ray and Janine following each other around the track in the TR4 and Spitfire at RMVR events. They will be missed. 
                       JIm TR4 #223



In a message dated 04/06/10 21:18:10 Mountain Daylight Time, bluebit at comcast.net writes:
It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He 
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He 
is survived by his beloved wife Janine. 



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain 
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire, 
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more. 



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed. 

Jim Roelofs 
303-862-9371 (h) 
303-629-3545 (w) 
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred) 

_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jameselbe at aol.com 

From jameselbe at aol.com  Wed Apr  7 09:59:06 2010
From: jameselbe at aol.com (JAMESELBE)
Date: Wed,  7 Apr 2010 09:59:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ec5b20ed.026b.4e19.89f7.7fe8e6e64569@aol.com>

It was also fun having Ray and Janine following each other around the track in the TR4 and Spitfire at RMVR events. He will be missed.
        Jim TR4 #223



In a message dated 04/06/10 21:18:10 Mountain Daylight Time, bluebit at comcast.net writes:
It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He 
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He 
is survived by his beloved wife Janine. 



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain 
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire, 
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more. 



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed. 

Jim Roelofs 
303-862-9371 (h) 
303-629-3545 (w) 
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred) 

_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
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From cofrog at q.com  Wed Apr  7 11:24:15 2010
From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:24:15 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1161576851.7620821270607684824.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT140-w63E6CF77C33878AD6E1882D4170@phx.gbl>

I'm sorry to hear this.  Never really knew Ray but remember seeing him and his
wife following each other at several Pueblo Enduros.



Dan Forgey

> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 02:37:45 +0000
> From: bluebit at comcast.net
> To: stlnyc at msn.com; klynch_6 at msn.com; toodamnfunky at comcast.net;
jroelofs at gmail.com
> CC: rayj at wispertel.net; treasurer at rmvr.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
>
> It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He
> died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado.
He
> is survived by his beloved wife Janine.
>
>
>
> Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky
Mountain
> Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track
spitfire,
> GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B and more.
>
>
>
> A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed.
>
> Jim Roelofs
> 303-862-9371 (h)
> 303-629-3545 (w)
> bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred)
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com

From walt at hot-tr6.com  Wed Apr  7 12:38:09 2010
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 -0600
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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From jeff_durant at comcast.net  Wed Apr  7 13:20:38 2010
From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (jeff_durant at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 19:20:38 +0000
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My wife insists she does the pedal pushing!  Fine by me as long as she doesn't complain when I spend $ on engine parts!
Jeff Durant
#12 TR6 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Walter Hollowell" <walt at hot-tr6.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 
To: 'Rob'<19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; 'Bob Adams'<adams910 at gmail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr  7 17:15:05 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>

Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
of a brake bleed job.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jeff_durant at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 12:21 PM
To: Walter Hollowell; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; 'Rob'; 'Bob Adams';
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife insists she does the pedal pushing!  Fine by me as long as she
doesn't complain when I spend $ on engine parts!
Jeff Durant
#12 TR6 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Walter Hollowell" <walt at hot-tr6.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 
To: 'Rob'<19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; 'Bob Adams'<adams910 at gmail.com>;
<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jeff_durant at comcast.net

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From billb at bnj.com  Wed Apr  7 18:07:24 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:07:24 -1000
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
Message-ID: <820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>

Sheesh. Haven't you guys heard of speedbleeders? As soon as I tried a set my
wife told me she was never bleeding a brake again--on either end.

On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:

> Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
> of a brake bleed job.
>
> Jack

From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr  7 22:59:50 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:59:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
	<820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <F14BE2134DA246D9B0ACDC9C154F8E9E@hpa1477c>

Hey, with two kids in the house, bleeding our five cars was some of our
quality "alone" time.  <Grin>
 
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:07 PM
To: Jack Brooks
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Sheesh. Haven't you guys heard of speedbleeders? As soon as I tried a set my
wife told me she was never bleeding a brake again--on either end. 

On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:

> Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
> of a brake bleed job.
> 
> Jack

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Thu Apr  8 07:45:44 2010
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:45:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Morning FOTer's,

As always posting because I need help, having owned a Spit and a TR6
back in the "day" I sold my Shelby race car and started racing a Spit,
love it but I am sort of out of it as compared to the Ford parts and
where to get what and what fits what and such. So back to my problem,
going like a mad man with NDA shipments and such to get ready to
reinstall my originally incorrectly made Summer Brothers axles and while
doing that I was going to upgrade to GT6 rear drums. As you know the
only way to get the backing plates changed is to ruin a bearing locking
ring, maybe ruin a bearing and have to totally take out both axles, hubs
etc etc. Anyway got all my parts in painted prepped and waiting on
Summer Brothers to send my now hopefully correctly re done  axles back
NDA yesterday. Got'em in left the office and went home to put it all
together and planned leave this AM for VIR and the VDCA race. All my
buddies left Wed and I was to catch up. Well I get the 7/16" race wheel
studs pressed in and spot welded in place and I am ready to drop on the
4 bolt flange with the axle seal followed by the brake backing plates
and guess what, the bolt pattern on the backing plates I was sent is off
by at least 1/2" !!!!!  Turns out they are Rotoflex backing plates and
not the ones that match the Spitfire 4 bolt pattern. So I spend a couple
of hours calling everyone I know (especially west coast places as I need
them NDA today) and no one has/will take the time/or whatever) to see if
they have any. So VIR and the VCDA is out. But I still need the right
backing plates.

So does anyone have any they would sell to me?  They backing plates have
a 2.0" center hole, the smaller Spit bolt pattern around  2 3/8" center
to center measurement and are for the 8" x 1.5" shoe size.  They have
the same wheel cylinder as a Spit and also the same manual brake
adjuster set up. By the way the GT6 parts car I have has 8" x 1.5" drum
brakes if anyone needs them, they are "supposedly" rare???  Price can be
REALLY right as I need to re coup all the NDA charges I spent on nothing
now that VIR is out!!!!

Thanks from Brakeless in Tennessee!!  Hoping the "List" can help!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com

From KENMUN at aol.com  Thu Apr  8 12:59:25 2010
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 14:59:25 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr3 pistons/cam
Message-ID: <64c41.3eab9fd5.38ef818d@aol.com>

anyone have a good set of 87mm pistons and a performance cam (something  
like a isky 666) that they would like to sell? thanks, ken m. tr3 vintage  
racer

From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Apr  8 13:38:50 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:38:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website
Message-ID: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>

Pretty fancy stuff Ted

 

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/TSIPictures.html

 

Looks great

From gasket.works at gte.net  Thu Apr  8 14:13:23 2010
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:13:23 +0000
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
Message-ID: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in the fot site.  

Questions

1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it something worth exploring at all?


If so, ...

2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue please let me know.  

Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy.... event food or some such.

Mordy


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Apr  8 15:11:33 2010
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <EAF83662-712E-4A91-8F31-634D733BF49B@comcast.net>

Well, that was effective negative motivation!  I enjoy the FOT stuff  
every day, have solved countless issues here from good advice, sourced  
parts, etc.  I sure don't want to look at more advertising in my day,  
so I just made my first donation with paypal - took 90 seconds.  Well  
worth it to keep advertising off the space!  Remind us once in a while  
what a good thing we have going we'll keep sending money.
Just think, everybody, what you would pay a mechanic if you could even  
find these answers anywhere else.  It's a bargain!

On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:13 PM, gasket.works at gte.net wrote:

I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space  
in the fot site.

Questions

1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it  
something worth exploring at all?


If so, ...

2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue  
please let me know.

Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want  
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask  
you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas  
trophy.... event food or some such.

Mordy


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pcdelux at verizon.net  Thu Apr  8 15:14:43 2010
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (Bill DeWar)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>

Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.

Bill DeWar
----- Original Message -----
From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Apr  8 16:23:58 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:23:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <C59782C9E5314F87BCADF639928F4FB1@joepentiumnew>

Since Mark has nothing to do with the FOT site, his opinion is pretty
meaningless.  I think that if it brings in revenue to support the FOT
activities and is not too overwhelming, it is probably a good thing.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill DeWar
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:15 PM
To: gasket.works at gte.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot

Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.

Bill DeWar
----- Original Message -----
From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr  8 16:47:19 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:47:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <9A15ED20BDCD4B5191D797FD9CA020A8@userb38463fba5>

I think he is referring to the FOT web site and not the e-mail list.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill DeWar" <pcdelux at verizon.net>
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
>
> Bill DeWar
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
> Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
>
>
>> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
> the fot site.
>>
>> Questions
>>
>> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
> something worth exploring at all?
>>
>>
>> If so, ...
>>
>> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
> please let me know.
>>
>> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
> interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
> Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
> event food or some such.
>>
>> Mordy
>>
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  8 17:50:37 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:50:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>

Bill DeWar wrote:
> Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
>
>   

There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.

The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to generate
a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races, 
etc.  Ads
there would be more like the ads on, for example, 
http://www.team.net/archive
where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them, 
and there
is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.

For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and 
generate
a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
in the line about from all parts of the world.

And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
in one place.

But that is a different discussion.

mjb.

From GRMTim at aol.com  Mon Apr  5 07:12:38 2010
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:12:38 EDT
Subject: [Fot] latest on the Classic Motorsports Mitty
Message-ID: <1f6bd.47ec7f25.38eb3bc6@aol.com>

Sorry to barge the list, but thought some would want the latest news on the 
Mitty. if you are coming, please make it a point to drop by our big tent on 
the hill and say hi. Thanks.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723
The MITTY Returns to Road Atlanta
to Celebrate its 34th Year

B B B B  The oldest historic car race on the East Coast returns to Road 
Atlanta, April 29-May 2 with the Classic Motorsports MITTY presented by Mazda.
B B B B  Legendary auto figure Peter Brock is the Grand Marshal of this yearbs 
34th annual festivities that will feature 28 races over three days featuring 
a lineup of more than 250 historic cars, offering something for every 
racing fan.
B B B B  Brock is a noted designer, builder and racer having stamped his legend 
by designing the World Championship Shelby Daytona Cobra and giving Datsun 
its first C Production National and Trans-Am 2.5 championships with his BRE 
stable of winning cars. He will be honored at a special dinner Thursday 
night at the track.
B B B B  bIbm greatly honored to be the grand marshal of the Mitty,b Brock 
said. bThis is the premier event of its kind. To have the history of BRE 
recognized is a great tribute and truly a walk down memory lane. Ibm looking 
forward to meeting with my old crew, the fans and seeing some old friends.b
B B B B  Brock has a long and storied history of excellence in the automotive 
industry. He began his career as a designer for General Motors where he 
penned the original Stingray concept. Later, Brock moved to the West Coast to 
work for Carroll Shelby, starting his School of High Performance Driving, which 
ultimately led to designing the Cobra Daytona Coupe. The still-young Brock 
continued his meteoric rise by creating Brock Racing Enterprises at the end 
of 1965. His team of BRE Datsun race cars quickly began winning trophies and 
championships across the country, proving to critics that these early 
Japanese imports could compete with the world. The BRE Datsuns won four national 
championships and had an unmistakable livery that is among the most 
recognizable in all of racing. Many fans, in fact, created BRE btributeb cars 
replicating the famous livery. On Saturday Brock will judge the best btributeb 
cars.
B B B B B  bHistoric Sportscar Racing has been bringing fans fantastic racing 
featuring some the great names in racing for two decades,b said Ken Fengler, 
HSR Vice President of Race Operations. bThis yearbs Mitty promises to offer 
fans some of the best racing ever among a broad variety of 
championship-winning cars and drivers.b
Lotus will be a featured marque with a 20-lap Formula 5000 race at noon 
Sunday, May 2. Tony Adamowicz, the 1969 F5000 champion, will be among the 
competitors in his Eagle Mk5. In addition, spectators will be given free track 
laps in the all-new Lotus Evora during the weekend.
B B B B  Porsche will be in the spotlight with the Klub Sport Challenge which 
enters its 14th year of competition for all Porsches from the 1950s, 60s and 
70s for 2.0-liter and 2.5-liter Porsche 911s, 914s, 356s and CP models. 
Additionally, the Cayman Interseries features 2009-2010 Caymans painted in 
historic racing paint schemes.
B B B B Mazda fans will enjoy the SCCA Pro Racing Playboy Mazda MX-5 Cup, the 
only professional event of the weekend, which will be run Saturday afternoon.
B B B B B  In addition there will be seven other classes of racing including 
Vintage Production, Historic Production, Open Wheel, Historic GTP/Group 
C/WSC/DP, Championship of Makes, Historic Stock Cars and IMSA Historic GT.B 
B B B B B A vintage event for motorcycles will be held for nostalgic two-wheel 
marquees such as Norton, Triumph, Vincent and Matchless. They will race both 
Saturday and Sunday.
B B B B  Several non-racing activities will appeal to fans as well at the 
infield 2010 Speedfest. The Factory Five/Cobra Corral will be center stage of the 
infield vendor alley with car displays and vendor booths. More than 20 car 
clubs, including Jaguar, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Cobra, Lotus and Fiat-Lancia, 
also will be on display in the infield. The Mazda ownerbs party Friday night 
is open to all Mazda owners who can attend by showing their car keys. The 
Saturday Night Party, sponsored by Moss Motors, will offer live entertainment 
with music by Wes Cobb.
B B B  An added bonus for fans will be the Concours dbLeMons, which puts a 
bitter twist on traditional Concours events by celebrating unloved and 
underappreciated classics, automotive oddities and cars whose owners arenbt afraid 
of a little self-deprecation. Judges will present several awards for cars 
that are especially foul, such as bMost Dangerous,b bWorst in Show,b and the b
Biggest Loserb for the car with the greatest level of value depreciation.
B B B B  Among the top drivers competing in this yearbs MITTY will be George 
Robinson, Bill Adam, Butch Leitzinger and Travis Engen, all winners at the HSR 
season-opener in Sebring, Fla., as well as Elliott Forbes-Robinson, Jack 
Baldwin and Chip Robinson, to name a few.B 
B B B B B  bThe variety of race cars competing includes everything from 
1950s-era production models and sports cars to former IMSA and Trans-Am racers, 
NASCAR stock cars and current production Porsches. Many of the 250 entrants will 
sport vintage livery from the past that fans will readily recognize,b 
Fengler added.
B B B B  The Mitty is the second of eight races on the HSR 2010 schedule. For 
more information, go to www.themitty.com or www.hsrrace.com.
# # #
04.01.2010
For more information, contact:
Barbara J. Burns, BurnsGroup Unlimited
404.873.0772 phone or 770.329.7134 cell
burnsgroup at aol.com
B 

From STEVEN.SMITH2 at GAPAC.com  Thu Apr  8 16:02:20 2010
From: STEVEN.SMITH2 at GAPAC.com (Smith, Steven L.)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:02:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT website
Message-ID: <2F3F877588CE9B44887C45F00826F8E4191A12ECBD@msggbyb.corpmsg.com>

I'm confident that Mordy is talking about FOT-Racing.com.

And to my way of thinking if the owner of the site doesn't want the
advertising then it's a no-go.

Excellent of Mr Dunst to solicit our opinions but he's paying for the site.
I'll fully support the decision either way...

Steve

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Thu Apr  8 20:11:53 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:11:53 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
Message-ID: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump housing and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the Chicoms.....................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr  8 20:12:02 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:12:02 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot Advertising.....THE FOT
 TILL...and Heartland Park
In-Reply-To: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <8CCA5A12D8C5E3A-13D8-BD8C@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

FOT,

Advertising would be too much responsibility. We might have to make a 'rule',
if we do.

We still have about $1,000 in the FOT till although we have not done any fund
raising for a few years.

We have avoided any cash needs with some event negotiating and Bill Babcock
didnt ask for anything at Portland  .

Not much will be needed for Heartand Park, thanks to HVR and O'Reilly Auto
Parts.

We have enough Kastner Cups for a few years...maybe three.

Heartland Park.....dont hesitate to register early for HP. And, if you have
any used parts or have any kind of commercial interest, rent a 10 x 20 space
for $100. There will be a large Club Presence and Midwest Spectators hungry
for an event of this size in their backyard.

Joe A











-----Original Message-----
From: gasket.works at gte.net
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 3:13 pm
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in the
fot
ite.
Questions
1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it something
orth exploring at all?

f so, ...
2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue please
let
e know.
Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want interlopers.
ut, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.  Perhaps, funds
albeit
mall could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy.... event food or some such.
Mordy

ent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
_______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr  8 21:06:11 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:06:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>

I'm glad you got out of the way!  It would not be good to try to get a  
hand or foot under it as it fell.

~Steve


On Apr 8, 2010, at 7:11 PM, <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece  
of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump  
housing and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the  
Chicoms.....................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr  8 21:11:43 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website
In-Reply-To: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <8CCA5A983E4E68B-13D8-C583@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

Cool stuff Ted!

A Memory Lane Cruise....thanks for sharing this on your website.

My dad was was farm implement dealer for 30 years from 1945 to 1975. ALEXANDER
IMPLEMENT COMPANY

Stored Tractor Tires were really easy to climb into in those formative years.

Climbing steel wheels with the old steel lugs was a challenge.

Later, I got all of the really dirty jobs...steam cleaning, painting,
decarbonising, torching old equipment for scrap.

It got better with equipment set-up and valve jobs, but I learned the word
MATRICULATE and headed for college.

The business lived on for a second 30 years under another name, then sold and
bulldozed in the name of progress.

There's no going back home to Osage, Iowa, now.  People there have not a clue
about British Sports Cars.

Great golf course, but I cant seem find time to play golf.....4800' of
concrete runway, but no airplane.....

Joe A.











-----Original Message-----
From: Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>
To: Fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Tr8 List <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 2:38 pm
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website


Pretty fancy stuff Ted

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/TSIPictures.html

Looks great
_______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Thu Apr  8 21:30:17 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:30:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] HD Theatre
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS20CAF56D9FD381D354CFAFB7150@phx.gbl>

Interesting feature about race track design on 'Mega World' this evening.
(Comcast ch. 663 here)

Kevin

From gasket.works at verizon.net  Thu Apr  8 21:45:09 2010
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:45:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot Advertising.....THE FOT
 TILL...and Heartland Park
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<8CCA5A12D8C5E3A-13D8-BD8C@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001501cad797$0dd5a820$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

I have heard enough sense to agree with my original gut feelings.

Hence, No comercial advert space on the FOT site.

Mordy

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  8 22:07:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:07:07 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
	<46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4BBEA7EB.3040209@bradakis.com>

Steven Belfer wrote:
> I'm glad you got out of the way!  It would not be good to try to get a 
> hand or foot under it as it fell.
>
Really.  One can certainly get hurt.  An old Logan 400 Hobbyist lathe 
probably
weighs less than an engine block, but I can still imagine that if one 
were to have
some sort of incident while loading it into the back of a Honda CRV 
there might
be some discoloration and bruising that takes almost a week to heal, 
perhaps a few
nearly healed over scratches in the skin by now.

One needs to be cautious when single-handedly trying to do the work of 
three men:
Larry, Moe and Curly.


mjb.

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Apr  9 00:00:52 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:00:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  jack stands]
Message-ID: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>

Here's a couple options....

USA made...  $179.99
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=72519&group_ID=1725

Chinese? made....   $39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

You could buy American or buy the $40 Chinese jacks and then spend 
$130.00 on a vacation within the USA with your family.   Of course, if 
you're concerned that a car falling on you due to inferior goods is 
going to spoil the vacation, I understand.

--Justin

From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Apr  9 07:22:02 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:22:02 EDT
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
Message-ID: <9372e.372db40c.38f083fa@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2010 6:22:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:


> I think he is referring to the FOT web site and not the e-mail list.
> 

I sure HOPE so, or we'll be SOL.

Bill (Damdinger)

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Fri Apr  9 10:15:33 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<EAF83662-712E-4A91-8F31-634D733BF49B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2BCFF416A0F64D18A1A7C25DA4DD0D63@Charly>

I also have made a donation to keep the ads off the FoT site.
Thanks,
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen at comcast.net>
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Well, that was effective negative motivation!  I enjoy the FOT stuff
> every day, have solved countless issues here from good advice, sourced
> parts, etc.  I sure don't want to look at more advertising in my day,
> so I just made my first donation with paypal - took 90 seconds.  Well
> worth it to keep advertising off the space!  Remind us once in a while
> what a good thing we have going we'll keep sending money.
> Just think, everybody, what you would pay a mechanic if you could even
> find these answers anywhere else.  It's a bargain!
>
> On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:13 PM, gasket.works at gte.net wrote:
>
> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space
> in the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
> something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
> please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
> interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask
> you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas
> trophy.... event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Apr  9 10:36:44 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:36:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  jack stands]
In-Reply-To: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>
References: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <000401cad802$d8407e80$88c17b80$@com>

Take a look at Griot's Garage for another option.

No Commercial Interest

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Justin Wagner
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:01 AM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re: jack stands]

Here's a couple options....

USA made...  $179.99
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=72519&group_ID=1725

Chinese? made....   $39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

You could buy American or buy the $40 Chinese jacks and then spend 
$130.00 on a vacation within the USA with your family.   Of course, if 
you're concerned that a car falling on you due to inferior goods is 
going to spoil the vacation, I understand.

--Justin
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Apr  9 10:38:21 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:38:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>

What broke on the engine stand, the bolts holding the engine or the frame of
the stand itself?  I've had the same concerns.  I use good (hopefully!) Gr.
8 bolts to hold the engine to the stand.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:12 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump housing
and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the Chicoms.....................Cheers
Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Apr  9 12:25:51 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
	<000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004091422190.6826@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Tim Murphy wrote:

> What broke on the engine stand, the bolts holding the engine or the frame of
> the stand itself?  I've had the same concerns.  I use good (hopefully!) Gr.
> 8 bolts to hold the engine to the stand.

I didn't read the initial post as "the engine stand broke". I read it was 
"I was rolling an object with 400 pounds stationed such that the roll 
center was 24 inches off the ground when the wheels hit some dust on the 
floor and the stand tipped over".

Experience teaches us to be wary of heavy objects with a high center of 
gravity.

> Tim

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From pcdelux at verizon.net  Fri Apr  9 14:24:23 2010
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (Bill DeWar)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 16:24:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
	<4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>

Sorry I thought Mark B was involved in the web-site also. My bad. I still
think Mark's opinion might matter though.

Bill D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Bill DeWar wrote:
> > Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
> >
> >
>
> There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
> web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
> email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
> as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
> donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.
>
> The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to
generate
> a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
> Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races,
> etc.  Ads
> there would be more like the ads on, for example,
> http://www.team.net/archive
> where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them,
> and there
> is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.
>
> For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
> start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
> Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
> discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and
> generate
> a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
> for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
> in the line about from all parts of the world.
>
> And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
> Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
> in one place.
>
> But that is a different discussion.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr  9 15:15:03 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 17:15:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17><4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>
	<004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <8CCA640DAE0853C-1AE0-15166@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>

Dr. Dunst is our website benefactor and Henry Frye is our webmaster....almost
official positions, if we had any 'positions'.

Mark Bradakis made the FOT  possible and he will be one of our Honored Guests
at Heartland Park.

Joe A










-----Original Message-----
From: Bill DeWar <pcdelux at verizon.net>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 3:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


Sorry I thought Mark B was involved in the web-site also. My bad. I still
hink Mark's opinion might matter though.
Bill D
---- Original Message -----
rom: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
o: <fot at autox.team.net>
ent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:50 PM
ubject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot

 Bill DeWar wrote:
 > Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
 >
 >

 There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
 web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
 email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
 as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
 donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.

 The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to
enerate
 a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
 Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races,
 etc.  Ads
 there would be more like the ads on, for example,
 http://www.team.net/archive
 where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them,
 and there
 is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.

 For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
 start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
 Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
 discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and
 generate
 a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
 for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
 in the line about from all parts of the world.

 And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
 Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
 in one place.

 But that is a different discussion.

 mjb.
 _______________________________________________
 fot at autox.team.net

 http://www.fot-racing.com

 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
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nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr  9 19:16:33 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:16:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2011 and dont forget about 2012...the big one.
Message-ID: <8CCA66297B58BAE-1314-17148@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>

FOT.....

It is not too early to consider the Kastner Cup location for 2011.

Back 'west' unless there is a compelling reason otherwise...subject to Kas'
approval.

We need ideas and volunteer to spearhead. Step up. Please.

Heartland Park will be a good place to discuss.

We need input from everyone on this list, no matter how bizarre. When it all
gets boiled out to it's essence eventually and begins to make sense.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------

2012 will be the 60th year of Triumph in Competition........I hope we get
proposals from VSCDA, SVRA, VDCA, etc. This, of course will be a big one with
a potential for a big gate. As it should be. Or not? The BRITS are already
planning their return. We need to be ready for them.

Joe A

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Apr 10 05:04:32 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:04:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
Message-ID: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>

A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.

In no particular order:

Don Marshall - TR4
George Wright - TR4
Susan Kahler - Spitfire
Henry Frye - TR4
Rob Deanes - TR4
Dean Tetterton - TR3
Leo Oddi - TR250
Mark Wheatley - TR4
Dennis Delap - TR4
Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
Tony Drews - TR4
Bob Wismer - TR4

There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
TRack.

Irv Korey

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Apr 10 05:56:23 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] The Gathering
Message-ID: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net>

Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car 
show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be 
set up with a parts display.  Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension 
stuff and more.  If you are attending and need any of our products 
brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as 
soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items 
such as engines, transmissions, etc.   Thanks. See you there. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 10 05:56:58 2010
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
In-Reply-To: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cad8a4$ec641aa0$c52c4fe0$@rr.com>

Hard to think of racing with the temps here are back down into the upper 20s
and snow covering vehicles and the roof of most buildings. That and it was
80 just two days ago. Sounds like a great turnout of Triumphs. Anyone think
to notify the EPA??

Regards to all.
Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:05 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway

A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.

In no particular order:

Don Marshall - TR4
George Wright - TR4
Susan Kahler - Spitfire
Henry Frye - TR4
Rob Deanes - TR4
Dean Tetterton - TR3
Leo Oddi - TR250
Mark Wheatley - TR4
Dennis Delap - TR4
Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
Tony Drews - TR4
Bob Wismer - TR4

There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
TRack.

Irv Korey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Apr 10 11:35:09 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:35:09 EDT
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
Message-ID: <f303.3dd8de3b.38f210cd@cs.com>

Aaaargh!  I am doing yard work.....best of luck to everyone.

Stay safe!

Joe A

> A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
> paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
> VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
> together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
> have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
> expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
> spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
> the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and 
> flowing.
> 
> In no particular order:
> 
> Don Marshall - TR4
> George Wright - TR4
> Susan Kahler - Spitfire
> Henry Frye - TR4
> Rob Deanes - TR4
> Dean Tetterton - TR3
> Leo Oddi - TR250
> Mark Wheatley - TR4
> Dennis Delap - TR4
> Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
> Tony Drews - TR4
> Bob Wismer - TR4
> 
> There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
> and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
> TRack.
> 
> Irv Korey
> 

</HTML>

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Apr 10 14:55:01 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 16:55:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
In-Reply-To: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BC0E5A5.2090900@blacksburg.net>

On 4/10/2010 7:04 AM, Irv Korey wrote:
> A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
> paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
> VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
> together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
> have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
> expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
> spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
> the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.
>    
I'm just sick!  I only live 2 hours from VIR.  If I'd known the FoT was 
gathering there, I'd have gone.  Damn!  Well, y'all have fun and be safe.

Next time there are FoTers at VIR, lemme know if you need a helper.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Sat Apr 10 17:57:54 2010
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:57:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Amazing Happening at VIR!
Message-ID: <51E8336C-FC33-4A69-ABCC-2B1851823BE6@141.com>

After another day of racing, I am extremely proud to report that of  
the thirteen Triumphs that showed up to race, exactly THIRTEEN  
Triumphs completed the day and are ready to race again tomorrow!!! I  
believe this is a first in the history of the FOT!

It was another amazingly gorgeous day at the track, marred only by a  
few small incidents. Wish you were here!

Keep Triumphing!

Susan     :)

Sent from my iPhone

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Apr 10 21:25:32 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:25:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 2
Message-ID: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, a spectacular weather day was complimented by spectacular racing. The
weather was absolutely perfect. And the TRiumphs here liked it too. As Susan
mentioned, after 3 track sessions, all 13 TRiumphs are running well. There
were a few issues today, but they were all overcome. 10 of the TRiumphs ran
in the same group (the Spitfires are in another group, and Randy Williams
ran his Jaguar instead of the TR3) , and there were several great battles
throughout the feature race.

Memo to Russ Moore - the EPA did not need to be notified as very little
marking of territory was going on, with 1 notable exception.

;-)

Memo to J C Hassell. This is not an "official" FOT event. However, the FOT
guys that have run this event before love it, and plan to keep on coming
back. You should monitor the VDCA website, and mark your calendar
accordingly.

More good times are expected tomorrow.

Irv Korey

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 11 11:39:21 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:39:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] 19 years
Message-ID: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>

Team.Net became a registered domain on April 11th, 1991.
And it was just five years later, in '96, when the FOT list
was set up.  Some of us have been around a while!

mjb.

From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 11 12:16:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:16:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] 19 years
In-Reply-To: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>
References: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <400BAC83-D98F-47E6-9B7F-198FAA3D2E33@bnj.com>

I bet you wish you'd registered Team.com and perhaps a few others. Even now in
a devalued URL world I suspect Team.com would be worth a hundred K. As far as
that goes, you might look into the value of team.net. Not that big a deal
switching domain names, the only people who care what a URL is these days are
marketers.

I think I registered bnj.com in 1993. Could have had bj.com but chose not to.
I used to have a lot of three and four letter URLs, but I let most of them
lapse. Silly, that. Hard to believe that I started my company 18 years ago,
and here I am still just a kid.


On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:39 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Team.Net became a registered domain on April 11th, 1991.
> And it was just five years later, in '96, when the FOT list
> was set up.  Some of us have been around a while!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 11 18:00:51 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:00:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-6 Crown Wheel
Message-ID: <049ECDD3B6CC4F14B6505FBB530EDC40@INSPIRON>

Does anyone have a 3.45 Crown wheel and gear they would like to sell  thanks
rob

From adams910 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 11 19:05:52 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:05:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 2
In-Reply-To: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>
References: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <z2j673993c51004111805n245d9bc7p820fef59e4d84c0@mail.gmail.com>

Results are posted on mylaps
http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=517984

Bob

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Apr 11 22:12:06 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 23:12:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
Message-ID: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>

We had another beautiful day for motor racing. Cloudless skies, low
humidity, high temp was around 80. After having 7 TRack sessions during the
previous 2 days, VDCA offered 3 more today, including an enduro. There was
some great racing in both the enduro and the feature race. However, a few of
the cars developed issues during the course of the day. Many of the issues
were overcome, and all the TR's that were expected to take the green in the
feature were there. And all finished except for 1. Both Spitfires ran the
enduro, but neither made the feature, as 1 had issues and the other had to
leave early enough to get home tonight, Monday is a work day. At the end of
the enduro, we were able to get 12 of the 13 cars in attendance together for
a group photo.

This was the first time that I was able to attend a VDCA event, and from my
vantage point, it was really top notch. As stated, there was a ton of track
time, I'm told the entry fee is very reasonable, and VIR is a first class
facility. There was a dinner Saturday night, the food was yummy and
plentiful, and the program took all of about 5-10 minutes. The TRiumph
ghetto is not to be missed. I'll be back next year.

Irv Korey

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Apr 12 09:28:48 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
Message-ID: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>

This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice write
up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.

http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm

Mike Harmuth

From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Mon Apr 12 10:25:30 2010
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (spitfiresuz at 141.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:25:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
Message-ID: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Apr 12 11:00:15 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:00:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004121259040.22847@isis.mit.edu>

Second and Second

Welcome.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon Apr 12 10:58:28 2010
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:58:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401702613@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

Seconds for both!  I'm happy to welcome more Spitfire drivers...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it
through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a
great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights
and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)
His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father
and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris),
and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Mon Apr 12 11:03:53 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:03:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>

Sounds great, I'll second. Welcome John and Chris.

Pretty soon this ghetto is gonna get so big it may take over downtown...

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: April 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:10:16 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:10:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <546699.61729.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

2 new spits in one weekend ... AWSOME!!!!!
 
Of


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com> wrote:


From: spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com, seacubeco at aol.com
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 11:25 AM


Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
_______________________________________________
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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:18:00 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:18:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members (second half of msg ;>(((
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <272312.34120.qm@web81102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

okay,
  My computer decided I was ready to send before I did ....
  OF COURSE!!!! I second two more spits ... Welcome, were happy to have you
...

Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com> wrote:


From: spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com, seacubeco at aol.com
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 11:25 AM


Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
_______________________________________________
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From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Apr 12 11:20:42 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:20:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] CSRG RACES AND TRIUMPHS and a Special TR3 and Driver
Message-ID: <03E410653478450986BD018A3183453B@Bud>

Hi Gang...We had 5 Triumphs at the CSRG races at Infineon....Scott Adair in
his Tr250...Tide Ebding in Steve Froines' 'Ol Blue'..(Steve was there
too)...Gary Horskorta in his red TR4...Myself in my Blue Spitfire....and the
Treat of the weekend....BILL MCANN(81 years old)...racing the red Tr3 that he
bought new in 1958, and last raced in 1965...Bill has not been away from
racing though...he usually races an H Modified......
Racer Bud

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:28:14 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:28:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I will second both nominations. Always good to have more Spit racers.

Doug
----- Original Message ----
From: "spitfiresuz at 141.com" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 12:25:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective
members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event
this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his
'64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock,
from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to
build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an
MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten
with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds,
anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary
to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!
Keep Triumphing,

Susan  :)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Apr 12 12:07:22 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:07:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] spit suspension
Message-ID: <000a01cada6a$ffb87e30$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

In the prep stages for a '75 Spit autoxer.
Any words of wisdom regarding front
suspension modifications to enhance
caster, roll centers, a-arm pivot locations
etc.    Also.  Does a Zbar make much of
a contribution.  Thanks!

art de armond

From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Mon Apr 12 12:08:58 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:08:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <C41A896803B44B5EB5FA01014E122D4E@your4dacd0ea75>

Looks like the hour delay from the time you post your email to the list
sending out the email is having an impact on the number of responses.

Guess the more the merrier...I call DOGPILE....

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul MacDonald
Sent: April 12, 2010 1:04 PM
To: spitfiresuz at 141.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Sounds great, I'll second. Welcome John and Chris.

Pretty soon this ghetto is gonna get so big it may take over downtown...

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: April 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:14:58 2010
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:14:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <m2gf39026c11004121214we753b872k9932cc98bee08d5d@mail.gmail.com>

Yes on the nominatios...the "Ghetto" crowd is on the rise !

rob deanes

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Doug Mitchell <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I will second both nominations. Always good to have more Spit racers.
>
> Doug
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "spitfiresuz at 141.com" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
> Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 12:25:30 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective
> members
>
>  Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event
> this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
> members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his
> '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock,
> from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to
> build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an
> MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten
> with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds,
> anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary
> to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan  :)
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
>  _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From Group44TR7 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 13:46:11 2010
From: Group44TR7 at aol.com (Group44TR7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:46:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
Message-ID: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>

Guys
 
    What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if 
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think 
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the 
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite. 
 
    The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter 
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the 
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must not 
be damaged by the testing procedure.
 
    Thanks in advance.
 
Cary

From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:47:10 2010
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:47:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <q2yf39026c11004121247k7530a985j800453c7d873dd8e@mail.gmail.com>

Good two new members and the crowd thickens at the 'Ghetto" soon it will be
said that there are Triumphs everywhere..surrounded by TRs on the
track..what a good thing !

rob deanes

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 12:25 PM, spitfiresuz at 141.com
<spitfiresuz at 141.com>wrote:

> Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds, anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan   :)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com   Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on
> Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Apr 12 14:33:45 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:33:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <000501cada7f$741e8760$5c5b9620$@com>

They have my second.  Always good to have more Triumph racers.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From horizonracing at msn.com  Mon Apr 12 15:26:04 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:26:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
References: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w3BC876A20061CA84D89AAB2120@phx.gbl>

Gary,

Here in Seattle I use a company(con-am) that has under water sonic testing.
Used for testing raw materials before machining of parts and aircraft props
etc.



"cheapest- High performance composite" ???????

> From: Group44TR7 at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:46:11 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
>
> Guys
>
> What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
> crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
> advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are
the
> surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.
>
> The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
> hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
> point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
> be damaged by the testing procedure.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Cary
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com

From horizonracing at msn.com  Mon Apr 12 15:41:42 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sovren De-frost
Message-ID: <SNT141-w2119C6B7FA947EF60A0219B2120@phx.gbl>

Sovrens first race of the year was at pacific raceways this past weekend. A
low turn out of cars (66) as usually the weather is not so great. Had Sun both
days :) Just super !



A really Good turn out TR's with Steve Hare in his bright and colourful spit,
t.a mosser in Ive's old Tr4, Jeff Quick in a TR4a, John James TR4, Charlie
Mitchell TR6, Bill Hart Devin TR (sorry if I missed anyone).

Lots of happy faces amongst this group on Sunday. I think everyone had there
fill of small issues.........Some bigger than others ;) I changed the head
gaskets of John James and Bill Hart on sat nite. Bill won 1 of his races on
Sunday and John James Did a GREAT job to get a fighting second place in 1 of
his races.



till the next race for us at Same place in may



Best

TG

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 12 17:57:41 2010
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:57:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
In-Reply-To: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Thirteen Triumphs racing; nice weather, a great track, mass gather at the
Ghetto was tremendous as always; it just doesn't get any better.
 
It was nice to see more than one Spitfire racing at the same event.  Wherfe
are the rest of the vintage racing Triumphs???

--- On Sun, 4/11/10, Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
To: "FOT" <fot at Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 2010, 11:12 PM


We had another beautiful day for motor racing. Cloudless skies, low
humidity, high temp was around 80. After having 7 TRack sessions during the
previous 2 days, VDCA offered 3 more today, including an enduro. There was
some great racing in both the enduro and the feature race. However, a few of
the cars developed issues during the course of the day. Many of the issues
were overcome, and all the TR's that were expected to take the green in the
feature were there. And all finished except for 1. Both Spitfires ran the
enduro, but neither made the feature, as 1 had issues and the other had to
leave early enough to get home tonight, Monday is a work day. At the end of
the enduro, we were able to get 12 of the 13 cars in attendance together for
a group photo.

This was the first time that I was able to attend a VDCA event, and from my
vantage point, it was really top notch. As stated, there was a ton of track
time, I'm told the entry fee is very reasonable, and VIR is a first class
facility. There was a dinner Saturday night, the food was yummy and
plentiful, and the program took all of about 5-10 minutes. The TRiumph
ghetto is not to be missed. I'll be back next year.

Irv Korey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 19:32:00 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:32:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
In-Reply-To: <220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>
	<220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <n2t673993c51004121832o9138ba04wdd4d4090c6fd6c83@mail.gmail.com>

" Where are the rest of the vintage racing Triumphs???"

Still in pieces.

-Bob

From jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:25:29 2010
From: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com (john preston)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:25:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>

Dear Susan and Friends of Triumph,
 Thanks for the vote and it was a pleasure to meet all the inhabitants of the
Triumph Ghetto this weekend at VIR.  The ghetto was more than willing to make
another space by the fire no matter how small the fire was and supply ample
quantities of cold beer and conversation. It was a joy.

How the weekend ended for me....
  This was my first time racing at VIR and as my confidence grew my lap times
shrank accordingly.  Dennis Delapp (sp?) was kind enough to help diagnose a
problem in my vent system that not enough air intake into the system was
helping to build too much pressure in the engine and filling my puke tank with
oil.  The car and driver continued to decrease lap times up to the start of
vintage enduro. I love the vintage enduro as a spitfire racer.  Its a chance
to show a few faster cars what David did to Goliath.   I managed to pass a few
MGBs, MGAs, TR3s and a few of the pesky Formula Vs by the 3d lap and could see
the next group of cars in my sights.  Going into turn 1 very hard the puke
tank spilled oil on the exhaust manifold and blow white smoke into the cockpit
and out the rear of the car.  Not knowing what had happened, I retired only to
find the leaking oil but decided not to go back out on the track until I could
fix the problem at my shop.  On the way to the FOT photo shoot in the paddock
I heard a small clink? and figured it was the hardware on my belts clinking in
the cockpit.  On the way to loading the car on the trailer the clink became
obvious as the left rear axle broke and the wheel fell off the car and the car
crashed to the ground.  Upon closer inspection it appears the axel broke on
the track only partway and finished heading towards the trailer.  My friend
exclaimed I was the luckiest SOB at the track and that I should by lottery
tickets that day...I did.  Luckily a formula V driver and former 1147 spit
owner saw the entire event and offered his oversize racing axels off his shelf
for free if I wanted them.  I hope to be back on the track for the season
finale in Savannah.

About me...
 My first car was an early 63 TR4 which I restored when I was 14 and was
bitten by the bug. I have had 5 TR4s and 4As until I was bitten again by the
racing bug in Savannah and sold my last TR4a for the Spitfire race car in 2003
where my wife and I started CAR (cheap ass Racing) a division of low rent
motorsports.  I am  a professional Archaeologist in Asheville North Carolina
and from time to time find my self with vast amounts of down time.  During one
of the longer down times I found myself as the manager of the British
Connection in Hendersonville North Carolina where we specialized in british
restoration and race car prep.  Later I worked as a mechanic in that business'
later incarnation of Standard Performance specializing only in Triumph
performance parts.  Now I own my own Archaeology company and work for another
and can rarely find time to turn wrenches on any thing but my own growing
small fleet.

Thanks again for a great time at VIR.
John Preston

> From: spitfiresuz at 141.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> CC: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:25:30 -0400
> Subject: Two new prospective members
>
> Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds, anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan   :)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]

From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Apr 12 21:49:11 2010
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:49:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
In-Reply-To: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>

Thanks for pointing this article out.

Scott... What an awesome car. Looks great. This is the first photos of the
car I have seen since you have owned it. What a great article. I had an
early picture of your car at VIR as my screen saver...flying. Every time I
looked at that Old photo I became instantly happy. Glad to see its in good
hands. Its nice to put the face of a car with the name of an FOTer.
Hope to race against you someday.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6+
GT6 Racecar Historian

 On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400, George Harmuth <harmug at us.ibm.com>
wrote:
> This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice
write
> up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.
> 
> http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm
> 
> Mike Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 07:14:59 2010
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:14:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
In-Reply-To: <bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>
References: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
	<bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>
Message-ID: <30D2F652-8A49-495F-9C30-DE48B6DD72C3@comcast.net>

Thanks - the site is heavily weighted to MGs at this point, and the  
guy from British Race Car (Curtis) was apologetic about that and said  
he would like to get some more Triumphs on there.  If you run into him  
at a vintage race, he's taking photos and will give you a car history  
form to fill out.
He caught me at the end of the season, having dropped two wheels off  
in the mud, so the car's not at it's most pristine, but it was running  
great that weekend.
here's the website, starting to build a nice mix of vintage racers on  
it.  http://www.britishracecar.com

On Apr 12, 2010, at 11:49 PM, <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

Thanks for pointing this article out.

Scott... What an awesome car. Looks great. This is the first photos of  
the
car I have seen since you have owned it. What a great article. I had an
early picture of your car at VIR as my screen saver...flying. Every  
time I
looked at that Old photo I became instantly happy. Glad to see its in  
good
hands. Its nice to put the face of a car with the name of an FOTer.
Hope to race against you someday.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6+
GT6 Racecar Historian

On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400, George Harmuth <harmug at us.ibm.com>
wrote:
> This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice
write
> up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.
>
> http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm
>
> Mike Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
_______________________________________________
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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 13 08:10:18 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:10:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <827021.48936.qm@web81102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Cary,
  You didnt really give us enough info to give a good answer. 
  I did talk to a couple of people here where I work (gulfstream aerospace)
who work with composits.
  Our composit guy, Steve, said that composits can be checked for
de-laminating with a simple "tap" test.  If you tap the composit with a coin
or key, you should hear a sharp tap.  If you get to an area that is
de-laminating you will hear a clearly different "thud" kind of sound.  He also
said that if you are working with a thin "painted on" type of coating over
metal, the easiest might be to sand it off, check for cracks and "re-paint"
the composit.
  His best suggestion for anything critical would be "X-ray".
  When I talked to the people in NDT (non destructive testing), they did not
put much faith in ultra-sonic testing.  As the waves pass thru 2 different
materials, they deform (picture a straw in a glass of water), making it
difficult to determine the depth and exact location of a crack.
  Again, they suggested X-ray as being the best method of testing wether you
have solid composite, laminate over composite, or composite over metal.
  Bear in mind that we are working on aircraft, not cars, so we may be a bit
more picky than necessary for whatever part you have in question.  If it is
any critical part, however, I would lean toward their suggestions of X-ray.
  If you have an aircraft service facility nearby, they may be able to do the
testing for you, or be able to send it out to someone who can.  Its not cheap,
but if its something your life (or even the survival of your car) depends on,
its cheap insurance ..
  Hope this was of some help...
 
 


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, Group44TR7 at aol.com <Group44TR7 at aol.com> wrote:


From: Group44TR7 at aol.com <Group44TR7 at aol.com>
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 2:46 PM


Guys

    What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.

    The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
be damaged by the testing procedure.

    Thanks in advance.

Cary
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 11:43:03 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:43:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
	assistance
Message-ID: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>

Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs to
bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a little
higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that disguises the
powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the front end and put a
little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque

From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue Apr 13 12:50:53 2010
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:50:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
Message-ID: <79306447.779081.1271184653161.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 12:59:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:59:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>

I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way, so
I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that done
and start tuning.

The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad or
a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around until
tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.

Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on a
track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.

Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.

For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused by
roll-induced bump steer.


On Apr 13, 2010, at 7:43 AM, <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

> Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
> otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
> At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may
have
> been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my
capability
> to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
> and this action did not improve my lap times.
>
>
>
> The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to
> bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a little
> higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that disguises the
> powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the front end and put
a
> little more weight up front.
>
> I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other
problems
> and make the rear end loose at turn in.
>
>
>
> What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
> Morrison, Albuquerque

From billbab at me.com  Tue Apr 13 14:15:16 2010
From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:15:16 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
References: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <55617E4A-EA20-4D13-B373-9714B84AA9AD@me.com>

I never saw this show up. I don't think it's too long. is something busted? 

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Bill Babcock <billb at bnj.com>
> Date: April 13, 2010 8:59:51 AM HST
> To: <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
> Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my assistance
> 
> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way, so I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that done and start tuning. 
> 
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad or a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around until tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need. 
> 
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on a track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights. 
> 
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer. 
> 
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused by roll-induced bump steer. 

From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 14:35:45 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:35:45 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <01985067-E8F7-4536-BAEE-A719557DC529@bnj.com>

Having cogitated on this a bit I think I know what is happening. Correcting
your rear camber increased traction at the rear, reducing the car's tail-happy
ways. Calling it "push" is indeed correct, the increased traction is pushing a
front end that was probably near it's limits before. All the suggestions
remain, with the added caution that  cutting your front springs is undoubtedly
going to make things worse. I'd go for a softer front spring and a softer sway
bar setting. Also double check your toe. I doubt you need much. I'd try zero
or a very slight toe in.

On Apr 13, 2010, at 8:59 AM, Bill Babcock wrote:

> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
> really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
> that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
> generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way,
so
> I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
> shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
> wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that
done
> and start tuning.
>
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad
or
> a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around
until
> tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
> outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
> could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.
>
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on
a
> track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
> cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.
>
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.
>
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused
by
> roll-induced bump steer.

From adams910 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 13 14:50:58 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:50:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure.
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already.

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring
rate from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and
I would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and
doing some real testing.

Bob

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 15:38:35 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:38:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1261104693.15225911271194715074.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Ultrasonic is probably the only reliable non-destructive way to test
composites.



you could venture into the realm of eddy currents, but reliability of UT makes
it the industry norm.



It will report out the depth of the crack as well as find any sub-surface
issues.



you could also go the X-ray route!



aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: Group44TR7 at aol.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:46:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?

Guys
B 
B B  B What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.
B 
B B  B The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
be damaged by the testing procedure.
B 
B B  B Thanks in advance.
B 

From tlizzard at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 15:48:02 2010
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:48:02 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl><EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl><EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS121E04940759809A527F1AC3110@phx.gbl>

I think the key here is that in lowering the rear the car has gone from static
positive camber to static negative camber.   This definitely has upped
traction at the rear and increased understeer.

More negative camber at the front, or softer front sway bar, or wider front
tires (assuming that it has wider rears currently), or some combination of all
three will yield the fix.


Terry Stetler

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 16:40:14 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:40:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <1744551976.14050901271197627982.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I agree with Bob, you have negative rake, you get that beak down to positive rake 

and it will help transfer some weight to the front. 

Can you get some negative camber in the front ? 

I can't tell you what to do with the springs on that car but if you can get your hands on a set of 

scales I would do that way before any skid pad testing. You can shim 

the springs to dial in cornerweights. 

How the car reacts when you lift ( in lie u of L-F brake) will give some clues as well. 

Any difference between left-hand cornering and right-hand ? If so it's definetly cornerweights. 

good luck . 

Jim G 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com> 
To: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com> 
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 2:50:58 PM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my assistance 

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure. 
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already. 

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring 
rate from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and 
I would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and 
doing some real testing. 

Bob 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net 

From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 16:53:54 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:53:54 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A4278D34-5B1C-4327-993B-C3085B59CAC7@bnj.com>

I'm biased because I had easy access to a "skid pad" -- a buddy's huge, flat
and very smooth parking lot. Checking corner weights makes sense for most
modern car race cars, but for ones with limited adjustability the result is
the question "Ok, it sucks, now what". Shimming springs on most cars screws
the ride height up.

On Apr 13, 2010, at 12:40 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> I agree with Bob, you have negative rake, you get that beak down to positive
rake
> and it will help transfer some weight to the front.
> Can you get some negative camber in the front ?
> I can't tell you what to do with the springs on that car but if you can get
your hands on a set of
> scales I would do that way before any skid pad testing. You can shim
> the springs to dial in cornerweights.
> How the car reacts when you lift ( in lieu of L-F brake) will give some
clues as well.
> Any difference between left-hand cornering and right-hand ? If so it's
definetly cornerweights.
> good luck .
> Jim G

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 17:10:13 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:10:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>,
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>,
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w177911D3CE52D680AE804A90110@phx.gbl>

I'm very tempted to go with the old go Kart theory of who care's how stiff it
is, as long as I can move some of the weight forward.  The car is using the
original 4CV springs designed for a 1322lb car.  My car weighs in at exactly
1000 lbs. At the local tight and twisty track, the car seems to do well and
when I've lost her, I lost the back end.  Most corners at our track here are
so slow that you just drive through and nothing happens.  Maybe altitude is
keeping everything safe and sane.  But at Coronado I did encounterr this
pushing problem.  There is a test and tune this weekend, maybe I'll have to
go...................Cheers Henry



Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:50:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
assistance
From: adams910 at gmail.com
To: billb at bnj.com
CC: dos_gusanos at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure.
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already.

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring rate
from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and I
would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and doing
some real testing.

Bob

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 21:41:13 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 20:41:13 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
 myassistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Good input from all.  One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the aero
effect.  Even at the relatively low speeds your talking about, having the
front end raised will cause front end lift.  The problem is showing up in a
flat out sweeper with the rest of the track handling well if I interpret
your comments correctly.  Dropping the front end should lower the lifting
effect and reduce the understeer in the flat out corner.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:43 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance


Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a
little higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that
disguises the powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the
front end and put a little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 14 01:32:20 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:32:20 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
 myassistance
In-Reply-To: <7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <000c01cadba4$9f77aba0$de6702e0$@com>

Take also in account that with a risen front you car will hover from the air
captured under the floor that will reduce the front end grip.
My front is lower that the rear end because of this, especially on fast
track with speed beyond 120 mph.
Have a look:
http://www.tr4-racing.de/pic/2009/spa/03.07.09Spa7Classic054.jpg

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Norlin Engineering
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 14. April 2010 05:41
An: dos_gusanos at msn.com; 'fot'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance

Good input from all.  One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the aero
effect.  Even at the relatively low speeds your talking about, having the
front end raised will cause front end lift.  The problem is showing up in a
flat out sweeper with the rest of the track handling well if I interpret
your comments correctly.  Dropping the front end should lower the lifting
effect and reduce the understeer in the flat out corner.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:43 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance


Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a
little higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that
disguises the powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the
front end and put a little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From seacubeco at aol.com  Wed Apr 14 19:43:59 2010
From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 21:43:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6B5C9CCE-0B32-44CB-9A34-E09867CB528F@aol.com>

Dear Future Triumph Friends,

Thank you for adding me to the list of triumph Friends.  Since  
getting home I have been bombarded with emails from members welcoming  
me and asking for help.  I love it!  Never has my inbox been so full  
with good mail then now.

The VIR weekend.
I was crew for the Jersey Devil Racers team 275, a MGA grey in  
color.  Unfortunately we broke in the first session on friday so we  
were spectators and help for our fellow Jersey Devil Racer team 25, a  
red immaculate Formula Vee.  I went wandering around and talked to  
John and Susan, the only two Spit drivers.  Both of you were  
extremely helpful and fun.  I had a great weekend.

About me.
I have restored a 1971 MG Midget when I was 20 and then sold it.  My  
friends (owners of the MGA #275) have always been British car nuts.  
One restored his first car, a GT6, and the other currently has a TR6.  
My brother is in the process of restoring a Porsche 912 for street/ 
race.  Another friend has a Spit that he autocrosses.    I eventually  
found a Spit that I could afford and I started a long slow  
restoration.  Right now it is completely in pieces and ready for the  
long road ahead of fixing, scraping, welding, and rebuilding.  I hope  
to have her on the road in 2-3 years but we will see.

The next race I will be at is the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point WV.   
Just look for the grey MGA and the red Formula Vee next to each other.

Thank you

Chris

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 08:29:47 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:29:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
Message-ID: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>

Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
excellence.
Vince Lombardi

From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 09:31:20 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:31:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>
References: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <05433A8E-6D77-4FE6-A067-8FF44E4C216A@aol.com>

I would sell all my spit stuff to get this.    Any one parts?

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 15, 2010, at 10:29 AM, "Bob Kramer" <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>  
wrote:

> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
> Bob Kramer
> Volente, TX
>
> Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
> excellence.
> Vince Lombardi
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 11:05:11 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:05:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
Message-ID: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/15/2010 10:23:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rkramer3 at austin.rr.com writes:


> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
> 

That Studebaker along side brings back a lot memories for me.  I had 
several Studebakers down through the years.  They were good little cars, often 
well ahead of their time stylewise.  I even had a Lark truck and a Lark wagon 
in the mid-1960s, but neither lived up to the quality of the earlier Studes I 
had. 

Bill Dentinger

From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Apr 15 12:17:16 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:17:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000801cadcc7$e12b89d0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

I still use my Lark truck V8 o'drive for light towing,
firewood hauling and other fairly light duties.
Not as sturdy a piece as the earlier Stude trucks,
but still pretty good devices.   It is New Mexico
truck  and not very rusty.  Still presentable.
I plan to install a disc brake kit and rear air springs
and pull the occasional TR racer behind it soon.

art de armond

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494


> In a message dated 04/15/2010 10:23:15 AM Central Daylight Time,
> rkramer3 at austin.rr.com writes:
>
>
>> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
>>
>
> That Studebaker along side brings back a lot memories for me.  I had
> several Studebakers down through the years.  They were good little cars, 
> often
> well ahead of their time stylewise.  I even had a Lark truck and a Lark 
> wagon
> in the mid-1960s, but neither lived up to the quality of the earlier 
> Studes I
> had.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net

From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 15 12:57:07 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:57:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] VIR Photo
Message-ID: <566988.72787.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For all of you who were at VIR this past weekend - I am still in Tennessee.
The guzzler broke down, and we are waiting for a second fuel pump to be installed.
If you would like a copy of our group photo just shoot me an email and I'll send you one when I get home.

Great fun being in Virginia again this Spring
Dennis

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Thu Apr 15 13:14:30 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:14:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members and roll call for Jefferson
 500
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1271354402.10001.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>

"The next race I will be at is the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point WV.
Just look for the grey MGA and the red Formula Vee next to each other.

Thank you

Chris"

Welcome to the group Chris. I'll be at the Jefferson 500 with the 63
Spitfire, my first time at Summit. Look for a red Spitfire, yellow roll
cage, #7. Even though you associate with MGs, stop by for a cool one. The
Jersey Devils are welcome too.

While I'm on the subject, any one else going to be at the Jefferson?


G. Michael Harmuth

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 15 14:21:48 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:21:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members and roll call for Jefferson
 500
In-Reply-To: <OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.0.1271354402.10001.fot@autox.team.net>,
	<OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W195C0B5675D91F3B6DF91DA50F0@phx.gbl>

> While I'm on the subject, any one else going to be at the Jefferson?
>
>
> G. Michael Harmuth


I'll be spectating, health permitting. Look for ugly pony-tail guy huffing
oxygen from a cylinder.



John H.

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 18:32:18 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:32:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>

That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination 
and $$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the 
previous year that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly 
don't make 'em like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs 
were a very close second...

M

From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Thu Apr 15 19:16:24 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com> <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AAB8F2915E7045FB96B7FE5837377706@jrg>

Where in the UK did they make Studebakers?

I'm just wishing I was still back up in the swamps of Jersey so I could snag
a nice race project.



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
'76 DM Spitfire autocrosser
And more projects than I can finish this millenium

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:32 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494

That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination and
$$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the previous year
that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly don't make 'em
like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs were a very close
second...

M
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jgambony at gcecisp.com



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.791 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/13/10
01:32:00

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 16 06:40:17 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:40:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
 Restriction
Message-ID: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3 of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=

From billdentin at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 07:36:22 2010
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:36:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCAB80EFAC8FAF-3C28-9096@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>

Joe...
I don't want to lead you astray, but my TR3 race car has always registered
HIGH psi on my standard (period correct) oil guage when racing.  We used to
worry about it, but finally assumed the guage was peculiar and learned to live
with it.
Bill

From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 07:48:22 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:48:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7C0C758C-5889-4049-9478-1416C2340CEC@aol.com>

I will venture a guess. Could it be a bad seal or a small crack.    
Maybe even a wrong filter
Just a guess

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 16, 2010, at 8:40 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to  
> 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back  
> as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and  
> about 1/3 of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under  
> the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil  
> around the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if  
> anyone has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but  
> needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting  
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 08:54:21 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:54:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitty vibes - Update #1
Message-ID: <A38A71F62FD14C8B89F4A580C89108D9@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Picked up the rebuilt driveshaft today.  The guy that did it wasn't there
today, so I'm not sure all that was done.  What they told me was hand
selecting rollers to minimize play in the slip joint - That seems to have
worked, much better than when I took it in.  They were also selecting
u-joint caps to eliminate end play there.  And then a rebalance.  The
paperwork just says check, straighten & balance.  

Shaft goes in the car tomorrow.  Car is on the track at Portland Saturday
morning with wife, Patty driving.  She experienced the problems at
Thunderhill, so will be able to tell any difference.

More on Sunday or Monday.

Jim

From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Fri Apr 16 09:26:33 2010
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:26:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <98047EEA074C4813836703E20A155DCA@elliott7455dae>

Joe - Do you have a spin-on oil filter ?  Or is it a spin-off design ?  Or 
is it an original filter design ?

Don Elliott, Montreal

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY 
Restriction


> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3 
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting 
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/58tr3a at videotron.ca

From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Apr 16 09:31:24 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:31:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
	<4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com> <AAB8F2915E7045FB96B7FE5837377706@jrg>
Message-ID: <000801cadd79$e0dfdff0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

It is possible there was a distributor in the UK who
assembled "kits" from the states.  This was done with
great success in Australia.  Most Studes were engineered
both right and left hand drive.

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gambony" <jgambony at gcecisp.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494


> Where in the UK did they make Studebakers?
>
> I'm just wishing I was still back up in the swamps of Jersey so I could 
> snag
> a nice race project.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire autocrosser
> And more projects than I can finish this millenium
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Mark Eginton
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
>
> That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination 
> and
> $$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the previous 
> year
> that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly don't make 'em
> like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs were a very close
> second...
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jgambony at gcecisp.com
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.791 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/13/10
> 01:32:00
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 16 10:17:01 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
Message-ID: <a0f3d.4826326f.38f9e77d@cs.com>

I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.

So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.

Joe


> Joe - Do you have a spin-on oil filter ?  Or is it a spin-off design ?  
> Or 
> is it an original filter design ?
> 
> Don Elliott, Montreal
> 

</HTML>

From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 10:43:38 2010
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:43:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cadd83$f770f5b0$e652e110$@racer@comcast.net>

Joe:

Could you have a clogged or defective oil filter?

Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 5:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintage.racer at comcast.net

From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 16 11:11:05 2010
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:11:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] radiator preasure
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I have a problem with pressure in the radiator forcing coolant (water) to
the overflow catch can but not allowing the coolant back in the radiator. 

I
am no mechanic, do not build or assemble the engine but would like to
understand possible contributing circumstances and possible solutions.

The
engine is TR-4, have run the same head and same bottom end for five race
weekends with none of these symptoms. changed engine builders, freshened the
bottom,did valve job with new valves same dimension, same supplier. Dyno
tested and tuned with no sign of a problem. I have used a 7lb cap forever,
have more than adequate radiator that was new 4 race weekends ago.

first race
weekend problem showed up. I'm a slow learner so I limped along by keeping the
radiator full. apparently by the time I realized the magnitude I over heated
the engine enough to damaged pistons and liners. By the end of the weekend
decided it was the radiator cap.

Bought new cap, had the pistons and liners
replaced, next weekend same problem I loose between 8 and 16oz depending how
hard I drive. Tried a 13lb cap at the track with no improvement. I located a
20 lb cap but got a recommendation to not use one that high so I did not test
that. There is no sign of water in the combustion chamber.

My questions are
what can cause this change and what might be my solutions.

thanks in
advance,  Mark Wheatley
                             #86 TR-4










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
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Unsubscribe:
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From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Fri Apr 16 12:13:21 2010
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:13:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A5466DD2B4A4E208EDA74F1E9F2B657@Dell5100Laptop>

Joe, my TR4 race car has two oil pressure gauges, one reads before the
filter and the other reads at the oil gallery.  In effect, one reads coming
out of the pump and the other reads after it has gone through the system.
If everything is normal, the gauge reading before the filter is about 10psi
higher than the reading at the oil gallery.  On two occasions I have seen
the first gauge reading much higher than normal and the second gauge reading
much lower.  The problem was a clogged oil filter and when the filter was
replaced everything went back to normal.  My guess on the excess oil is that
if it can't get through the filter it's being forced out somewhere else.
Don

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
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From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 14:17:08 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:17:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <0A5466DD2B4A4E208EDA74F1E9F2B657@Dell5100Laptop>
Message-ID: <A244D57030794B7DAC8F1EA4A8B2E727@Bud>

Joe  my friend put a new engine in his MGB racecar...ran it a bit then 
changed the filter....he put on a Fram filter that fit fine, but was the 
wrong filter for the engine...he couldn't get enough oil pressure through 
the filter...taked to Huffaker..he changed filters, and all was fine...I 
later spoke to a friend who has a racecar shop...very experienced guy...He 
said to stay away from FRAM filters...
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ofbracing" <ofbracing at nefcom.net>
To: <n197tr4 at cs.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restriction


> Joe, my TR4 race car has two oil pressure gauges, one reads before the
> filter and the other reads at the oil gallery.  In effect, one reads 
> coming
> out of the pump and the other reads after it has gone through the system.
> If everything is normal, the gauge reading before the filter is about 
> 10psi
> higher than the reading at the oil gallery.  On two occasions I have seen
> the first gauge reading much higher than normal and the second gauge 
> reading
> much lower.  The problem was a clogged oil filter and when the filter was
> replaced everything went back to normal.  My guess on the excess oil is 
> that
> if it can't get through the filter it's being forced out somewhere else.
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> Restriction
>
> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofbracing at nefcom.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 16 16:38:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:38:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] radiator preasure
In-Reply-To: <626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
	<626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <07a401caddb5$8c79c4d0$a56d4e70$@rr.com>

> I have a problem with pressure in the radiator forcing coolant (water)
> to the overflow catch can but not allowing the coolant back in the
> radiator.

If it's not pulling coolant back out of the reservoir, then there is an air
leak somewhere.  Could be in the overflow hose, could be a water pump seal,
could be a small compression leak (too small to show on a compression test),
or (most common in my experience) the secondary seal in the radiator cap is
not sealing to the top of the radiator neck.

If you have an early TR4 with the tall (1") fill neck, most of the caps
available don't have that secondary seal.  Any radiator shop can substitute
a later neck, though.

Note that it is normal for a certain amount of water to be expelled to the
reservoir as the engine warms up.  Water expands more than cast iron does.
So the issue is why doesn't it get sucked back in as the engine cools.
Since it cools slowly, it only takes a microscopic leak to cause problems.

-- Randall 

From KENMUN at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 07:31:07 2010
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:31:07 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
Message-ID: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped  
running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no  
compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going up/down.  
inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt was  
sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go 
up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, the 
locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any 
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage  racer

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sat Apr 17 15:04:31 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:04:31 GMT
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
Message-ID: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>

Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
BODY Restri...
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT

I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.

So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.

Joe




____________________________________________________________
Understanding Chemo
Get the Facts About How Chemo Works & Tips for a Successful Outcome.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca226816a9966ba0st05duc

From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 15:59:04 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:59:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <EB2E8516C0BF43FD8612BB953AB5D5A5@Bud>

That oil line sound like a likely possibility..I've had that on my 
spitfire..
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch at netzero.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restri...


> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> To: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
> BODY Restri...
> Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
>
> I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
>
> So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Understanding Chemo
> Get the Facts About How Chemo Works & Tips for a Successful Outcome.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca226816a9966ba0st05duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 17 16:04:36 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:04:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>

> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  

Both of them ...

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Apr 17 16:57:12 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 00:57:12 +0200
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
In-Reply-To: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
References: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000401cade81$528f4930$f7addb90$@com>

I don't use the locking tabs at this point.
I use loctite to fix the bolts in their threads.
Never came one lose 'till now.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von KENMUN at aol.com
Gesendet: Samstag, 17. April 2010 15:31
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped
running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no
compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going up/down.

inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt
was
sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go
up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, the
locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage
racer
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 17:00:41 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
	<030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2AFC8B92-3828-4006-9AD3-5B65709DA7E4@aol.com>

What about running it with out the filter element to see if the filter  
is clogged and causing excess pressure?  Maybe a bypass valve is bad

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 17, 2010, at 6:04 PM, "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge  
>> fitting
>> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?
>
> Both of them ...
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Apr 17 17:25:48 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CCAC9C72858D77-36C-1527@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>

Joe,

Using Kas' sage instructions in search of oil leaks, I have isolated two areas
of leaks.

One was from the dipstick hole. Puzzling, as I have never seen this much
activity at the dipstick hole.

The second source, and most significant is to be revealed by removing the
transmission.

I have hopes that it is the machining plug hole behind the cam shaft. This
seems most likely and my first choice over the rear crank seal.

Thanks for all of the support, moral and technical. Although I have not rung
the AMBRO out aggressively, there are indications that it will run strong and
handle well.

Joe








-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: 58tr3a at videotron.ca; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 4:04 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
BODY Restri...


Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
attached
o the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
rom: N197TR4 at cs.com
o: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
ubject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
estri...
ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
Joe


___________________________________________________________
enny Stock Jumping 2000%
ign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
ttp://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca22681679f67e7fst04duc

From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 17:43:09 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:43:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
References: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
	<000401cade81$528f4930$f7addb90$@com>
Message-ID: <57816C865F5E4C63AB92141DC7A4F7B4@Bud>

sounds like your distributor drive broke..freezing up the cam, while the 
cranshaft still wanted to turn the cam with the timing chain.
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <KENMUN at aol.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared


>I don't use the locking tabs at this point.
> I use loctite to fix the bolts in their threads.
> Never came one lose 'till now.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von KENMUN at aol.com
> Gesendet: Samstag, 17. April 2010 15:31
> An: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
>
> fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped
> running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no
> compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going 
> up/down.
>
> inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt
> was
> sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go
> up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, 
> the
> locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any
> ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage
> racer
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 17 17:48:53 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:48:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901cade88$8b224d40$a166e7c0$@com>

Joe,
	Just a thought, check on the canister housing and make sure there is
only ONE "o-ring" in the groove.  It's easy to have 2 and sometimes 3 forced
in there.  As I recall, the stock housing casting has a taper on it to guide
the canister into the slot.  With 2 or 3 "o-rings" in there the canister
will tend to wobble around a bit and leak.  As I recall, Ryan's street TR4
had 2 "o-rings" in the canister.  The oil pressure initially at road speed
and then dropping to a normal 50 PSI or so at 3000 sounds about right for a
stock engine.

	Doesn't explain the problem with the spin on but it could be two
separate problems, just to confuse everybody!!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 7:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 18:34:01 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:34:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
	<8CCAC9C72858D77-36C-1527@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <18E7CBB1672A495993865267B5DDE34A@Bud>

I run a breather tube from my dipstick hole to my catch can...I inserted a 
piece of copper tubing about 3" long (actually from a toilet tank)(i had to 
taper it a bit), and then ran a rubber hose from there...
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <jaboruch at netzero.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restri...


> Joe,
>
> Using Kas' sage instructions in search of oil leaks, I have isolated two 
> areas
> of leaks.
>
> One was from the dipstick hole. Puzzling, as I have never seen this much
> activity at the dipstick hole.
>
> The second source, and most significant is to be revealed by removing the
> transmission.
>
> I have hopes that it is the machining plug hole behind the cam shaft. This
> seems most likely and my first choice over the rear crank seal.
>
> Thanks for all of the support, moral and technical. Although I have not 
> rung
> the AMBRO out aggressively, there are indications that it will run strong 
> and
> handle well.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>
> To: N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: 58tr3a at videotron.ca; fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 4:04 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
> BODY Restri...
>
>
> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached
> o the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> rom: N197TR4 at cs.com
> o: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
> ubject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> estri...
> ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
> I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
> So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
> Joe
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> enny Stock Jumping 2000%
> ign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
> ttp://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca22681679f67e7fst04duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 18:39:31 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:39:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
	<000901cade88$8b224d40$a166e7c0$@com>
Message-ID: <AFDDBB2308B14959AD85EB62B6F041D5@Bud>

JOE..Tim's idea about the oil filter rubber  rings an old bell..... I know 
you are experienced in this stuff...but remember..Only check/change 1 THING 
AT A TIME...and be sure to email us for approval before you take a dinner 
break(:>)
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
To: <n197tr4 at cs.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restriction


> Joe,
> Just a thought, check on the canister housing and make sure there is
> only ONE "o-ring" in the groove.  It's easy to have 2 and sometimes 3 
> forced
> in there.  As I recall, the stock housing casting has a taper on it to 
> guide
> the canister into the slot.  With 2 or 3 "o-rings" in there the canister
> will tend to wobble around a bit and leak.  As I recall, Ryan's street TR4
> had 2 "o-rings" in the canister.  The oil pressure initially at road speed
> and then dropping to a normal 50 PSI or so at 3000 sounds about right for 
> a
> stock engine.
>
> Doesn't explain the problem with the spin on but it could be two
> separate problems, just to confuse everybody!!
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 7:40 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> Restriction
>
> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
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> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 21:09:50 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 23:09:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
Message-ID: <2603e.2ef26663.38fbd1fe@aol.com>

I had a close call where the factory cam-to-chain wheel set screws had  
stretched and only the lock tabs (and the timing of my routine  inspection) 
saved the day.  I talked to the Triumph parts manager, and  he sold some up 
rated set screws to me.  They had the same part# but you  can ID them easily as 
the top of the heads are rough looking.  I stopped  reusing old one factory 
ones!
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/17/2010 11:54:18 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  KENMUN at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
To:  fot at autox.team.net
Message-ID:  <6e60.51066657.38fb121b at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went  "bang" and stopped  
running. external signs were that the engine  turned over like there was no 
 
compression, the dist. didn't turn and  the push rods weren't going 
up/down.  
inside the cam sprocket bolts  were sheared and the chain cover center bolt 
was  
sheared. the crank  turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go 
up/down  with no  extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, 
the 
locking  tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any  
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3  vintage  
racer

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Apr 18 09:55:34 2010
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:55:34 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 3.89 Quaife prices?
Message-ID: <361dc.79dad422.38fc8576@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
 
What's a 3.89 Quaife in a Spitty/GT6 housing worth on the market these  
days?  I'm thinking a grand but don't really know.  Anybody know what  they're 
going for new nowadays?
 
I'm thinking I'd be a damned fool to even sell it but that's another  
discussion...;-))

From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 18 15:39:38 2010
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:39:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] radiator pressure
Message-ID: <658786.9942.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all for enlightenment and input received. I have come to the
conclusion that my problem is most likely from weakness in the head. It has
been repaired in the past. Pinholes were discovered in the most recent
disassembly that I tried to repair with ceramic seal. apparently not
successfully. engine goes to the shop tomorrow, further testing will tell. 
Thanks again

mark

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sun Apr 18 19:46:25 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:46:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitty Vibes - Update # 2
Message-ID: <55336EA4BD644F35ACE83927BD7CC8A9@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Well, the refurbished driveshaft worked, no bad vibes according to wife
Patty.  She had a great weekend.  No problems with the car at all, ran a
fast lap within 1 second of my best and finished 6th out of 10 cars in the
small bore vintage class.  

From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Tue Apr 20 01:13:34 2010
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:13:34 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Dear List'ers,

 

Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
engine? And what you think of them?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4
Fot mailing list

 <mailto:Fot at autox.team.net> Fot at autox.team.net

 <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Apr 20 05:10:04 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:10:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, Peter Vucinic wrote:

> Dear List'ers,
>
>
>
> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?

I recall seeing adverts that these would be available a few years back, 
but I don't recall actually ever seeing them.

I just did a quick search for ally heads at Moss and didn't find them. 
What vendor is selling them?

>From the "racer" perspective here in the USA, the rules bodies would limit 
where you could run a TR6 with an alternate cylinder head, so that would 
limit interest.

So, while the idea of using an ally head has appeal, there are limits to 
where you can use one.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR-4

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Tue Apr 20 06:11:38 2010
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:11:38 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAACHidNhL7nVHhjElfazbV9ABAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Robert,
Thanks for the reply. I myself have also come to the conclusion that they
have 'disappeared'. Still being made for the Big Healy's and MG's. It just
may have been the lack of demand that saw them die out. I can't find TR4
Alloy heads. You are correct in that these were being sold by MOSS.


Thanks.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] 
Sent: Tuesday, 20 April 2010 9:10 PM
To: Peter Vucinic
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, Peter Vucinic wrote:

> Dear List'ers,
>
>
>
> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?

I recall seeing adverts that these would be available a few years back, 
but I don't recall actually ever seeing them.

I just did a quick search for ally heads at Moss and didn't find them. 
What vendor is selling them?

>From the "racer" perspective here in the USA, the rules bodies would limit 
where you could run a TR6 with an alternate cylinder head, so that would 
limit interest.

So, while the idea of using an ally head has appeal, there are limits to 
where you can use one.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR-4

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 07:35:47 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:35:47 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:


> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the 
> TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?
> 

I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of 
my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to 
seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to leak. 
 It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then we 
finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new 
(at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a weight, 
and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal 
over the standard heads on our other engines.

Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.

Bill Dentinger

From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr 20 09:54:09 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:54:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
References: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <y2hd9f7bd331004200854i684b05f0z1f5d06007723fa26@mail.gmail.com>

I remember seeing the ads for the aluminum TR6 heads and thinking 'if I am
going to go to the expens and penalty of changing materials then I really
would much perfer to get some kind of serious performance gain out of it,
not just a weight reduction. Something like a total re-engineer and getting
a cross-flow head or _something_.

But alas, it is not to be. I guess I get to stick with the old lumps o iron.
:)

iii


On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:
>
>
> > Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the
> > TR6
> > engine? And what you think of them?
> >
>
> I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of
> my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to
> seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to
> leak.
>  It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then we
> finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new
> (at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a
> weight,
> and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal
> over the standard heads on our other engines.
>
> Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue Apr 20 11:07:35 2010
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (rjl6n at cstone.net)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:07:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
References: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <441fe0e335356c50b28e9a8b4f16447e.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

The serious engine builders like them because it is
a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
flow.

John

On Tue, April 20, 2010 9:35 am, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:
>
>
>> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the
>> TR6
>> engine? And what you think of them?
>>
>
> I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of
> my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to
> seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to
> leak.
>  It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then
> we
> finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new
> (at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a
> weight,
> and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal
> over the standard heads on our other engines.
>
> Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 13:05:01 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:05:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjl6n at cstone.net writes:

> The serious engine builders like them because it is
> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
> flow.
> 
I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have I 
bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone 
had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered mine, 
and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped 
me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to be 
a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently 
someone made a whole bunch of them.

Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of 
special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving 
options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never seen one. 
 If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.

Bill Dentinger

From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 20 13:29:41 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:29:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
Message-ID: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could answer a
couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good time
to call, I'll give you a call.
  Thanks in advance


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Apr 20 13:35:36 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:35:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100420153536.ENTS4.66323.imail@fed1rmwml46>

Yes, Bill, back in the sixties, I asked the factory foundry to scrub the cores of the TR-4 head and make me about a dozen special heads that had aprox.13 to 1 compression before any modifications were completed. The heads were passed around to the hot competitors at that time and of course some were in engines in cars I was passing on also.  The head was indeed thicker at the gasket surface and helped a lot with keeping things together.  They were impossible to identify from the outside although the edge on the spark plug side was very thin. If anyone has one, treasure it.
---- BillDentin at aol.com wrote: 

=============
In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjl6n at cstone.net writes:

> The serious engine builders like them because it is
> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
> flow.
> 
I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have I 
bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone 
had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered mine, 
and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped 
me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to be 
a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently 
someone made a whole bunch of them.

Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of 
special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving 
options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never seen one. 
 If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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--
Never be beaten by equipment

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Apr 20 14:09:57 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:09:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
References: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C93168108FA542C48E9DD805CCA95827@Charly>

Is this what you're looking for?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


http://www.rvanwest.com/PCS/72pcs.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom strange" <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...


>  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could 
> answer a
> couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good 
> time
> to call, I'll give you a call.
>  Thanks in advance
>
>
> Tom
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm
>
>
> #4 white spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Apr 20 15:08:15 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:08:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
In-Reply-To: <C93168108FA542C48E9DD805CCA95827@Charly>
Message-ID: <20100420170815.EIB0G.67680.imail@fed1rmwml46>

That is a very interesting rule book.  I did all the homologation through 1970.  Obviously I did not do the 1972 issue.The page on the GT-6 shows the carburetors to be 1.25", WRONG, and there was never a GT-6 with that Spitfire carburetor.  They all had Stromberg 1.5" units. So much for using the SCCA books to sort out protests.

---- Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com> wrote: 

=============
Is this what you're looking for?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


http://www.rvanwest.com/PCS/72pcs.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom strange" <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...


>  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could 
> answer a
> couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good 
> time
> to call, I'll give you a call.
>  Thanks in advance
>
>
> Tom
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm
>
>
> #4 white spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net



--
Never be beaten by equipment

From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 20 15:13:03 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:13:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...  Got it ...
In-Reply-To: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <850233.74321.qm@web81101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

thanks to all who answered .. a couple of you may get a call from me, but
between the pdf file and one or two people, I should be able to find out what
I want to know.


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Tue, 4/20/10, tom strange <tstrange at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: tom strange <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 2:29 PM


  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could answer
a
couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good
time
to call, I'll give you a call.
  Thanks in advance


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire
_______________________________________________
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From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue Apr 20 15:54:34 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:54:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
References: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1256C63A2E9641BCA670C9218A1AC289@latitudefb1e41>

I have one of them, they are real. I like it so much I spent $300 getting a 
minor flaw welded only to store it for safe keeping. I'm afraid to ruin it. 
It came with my TR4A, which was originally owned by a Triumph dealer in 
Baton Rouge. He was one of the lucky ones to get one from Kas.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads


> In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rjl6n at cstone.net writes:
>
>> The serious engine builders like them because it is
>> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
>> flow.
>>
> I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have 
> I
> bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone
> had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered 
> mine,
> and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped
> me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to 
> be
> a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently
> someone made a whole bunch of them.
>
> Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of
> special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving
> options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never 
> seen one.
> If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From gaf3 at charter.net  Tue Apr 20 16:18:30 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:18:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
	VTR??
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>

Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired 
cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on 
the frame?
I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best 
method has been.
I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to 
repair it.
Thanks in advance
Glenn Franco
3 6's Tr250 and Spits
Also
What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
Thanks
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
> ************************************

From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr 20 16:57:52 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:57:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <l2ld9f7bd331004201557q88439dfqb1e962ef7d969c90@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, I have done it. I welded it all up from underneath.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 6:18 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential
> pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best
> method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair
> it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************
>>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From goodparts at verizon.net  Tue Apr 20 21:59:30 2010
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:59:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <2191180C8B7849A684D07C393A4D1ADD@AdminPC>

I do them from the bottom with the body on.  If the front pins are cracked 
around the weld at the top you can re-weld them from the bottom.  Whether or 
not they were cracked you should strengthen them or they will.  Before 
welding plated to the sides of the front mounts I cut a piece of 3/16" x 1" 
flat iron to fit  inside of the mount box from front to back and along side 
of the pin.  Then weld to the front and back walls and vertically along its 
1" contact with the pin.  This prevents the pin from moving and cracking the 
weld at the top again.

Richard Good

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3 at charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:18 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel forVTR??> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential 
pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best 
> method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair 
> it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************
> _______________________________________________

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 21 07:59:43 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 06:59:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
Message-ID: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
have suggested starting tire pressures?

Thanks

Mike

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 21 08:48:18 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:48:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>

I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.

- Tony Drewds

At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
>Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
>have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Apr 21 10:16:40 2010
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <j2v8cbd782d1004210916p3fd7351o153c8efbf9bc93c9@mail.gmail.com>

At the CRC I asked the Hoosier guy and he said start with 26 pounds
all around cold.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
> Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
> have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>



--
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Apr 21 10:51:11 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:51:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<j2v8cbd782d1004210916p3fd7351o153c8efbf9bc93c9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <540F5D51B4AA409999D8154DC29A41B5@Charly>

Hey Chuck, what happened to you at the Defrost?
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Triumph Friends of" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures


> At the CRC I asked the Hoosier guy and he said start with 26 pounds
> all around cold.
>
> On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I 
>> have
>> Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last 
>> fall
>> have suggested starting tire pressures?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 21 13:57:18 2010
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:57:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
Message-ID: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 21 14:24:11 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:24:11 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cae190$9cef7740$d6ce65c0$@com>

They really do.
I had trouble at revs beyond 5500 with overheating on the Nordschleife (30
seconds full throttle)
Since I run one of those pumps all trouble is gone.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Wagner
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 21:57
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do
they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 21 14:26:45 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:26:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>

This is very low - I never could run this pressure with the Yokohama tires.
Interesting!

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tony Drews
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 16:48
An: Mike Mehl; Triumph Friends of
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures

I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.

- Tony Drewds

At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
>Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
>have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Wed Apr 21 14:52:43 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:52:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
Message-ID: <EF3EB983-CF41-4FC7-8A19-9E2EFA450EC9@aol.com>

John


 From what I know about waterpumps on a street car a 6 blade should be  
fine.  On a race car a 6 blade might cavitate at high rpm.  Cavitation  
is a bad thing.  I have read that some people cut two blades off


Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 21, 2010, at 3:57 PM, John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water  
> pump? Do they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?
>
> Thank you
> John Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Apr 21 20:04:23 2010
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:04:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
References: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81515F876B0A43389B41E814D11EC02E@TER2>

I recently acquired what I believe to be one of the 13 heads that Kas told 
me he had made. At first I noticed that the part  number, 511695 that is 
stamped into the head above the #1 inlet port was upside down and in smaller 
numbers than any of the other TR heads that I have ever seen. I then noticed 
some differences in the casting. After some measurement, we found that with 
.200" milled off of the head, the bottom deck is still over .200" thick and 
the edge of the shelf of the head under the spark plugs is thick and not 
sharp as a normal head with .200" off would be. When I received this head, 
with a bunch of other parts, it have racing springs and alloy retainers on 
it and had been ported and polished. There was some damage to the "squish 
area" of  two of the chambers from broken rings or other debris getting 
crushed between the piston crown and the head. Fortunately, the head is 
still thick enough that it can be milled to clean it up and it will still be 
thick enough to hold a gasket!
    Teriann Wakeman has been down to take some pictures of the head. She may 
post them to her web site if people are interested.
                                                                             
                    Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads


> In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rjl6n at cstone.net writes:
>
>> The serious engine builders like them because it is
>> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
>> flow.
>>
> I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have 
> I
> bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone
> had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered 
> mine,
> and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped
> me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to 
> be
> a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently
> someone made a whole bunch of them.
>
> Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of
> special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving
> options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never 
> seen one.
> If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com
>
>


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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Apr 21 20:24:53 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:24:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at
 rear bearing block.
Message-ID: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>

This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last year.

Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...

Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
to.

Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is the
cause of the leak.

If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)

If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
other cars.

I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized now...which is
likely a good thing.

Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for all of
the support.

Joe A....

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 21 21:17:28 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:17:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
	<000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>
Message-ID: <20100422031628.D8EE218765A@autox.team.net>

Now the Toyo RA-1's I ran at around 38 psi.

- Tony

At 03:26 PM 4/21/2010, MadMarx wrote:
>This is very low - I never could run this pressure with the Yokohama tires.
>Interesting!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 16:48
>An: Mike Mehl; Triumph Friends of
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
>
>I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.
>
>- Tony Drewds
>
>At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
> >Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
> >Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
> >have suggested starting tire pressures?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Mike
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Apr 22 06:22:52 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:22:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube
 at rear bearing block.
References: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FF5C04333084B3FB5AE7F2A6DC0B782@latitudefb1e41>

Is this the return tube on the rear main cap? The current Moss instructions 
for the rear seal recommend that we drill a couple of extra drain holes:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/837-005.pdf


2. Drill two extra 3/8" (10mm) diameter oil drain holes in bottom or rear 
main cap, (one each side of the original hole) at a similar angle. (Fig 3) 
This will remove all unnecessary pressure from the seal, and will not affect 
your oil pressure, or the main bearing lubrication.




Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at 
rear bearing block.


> This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last 
> year.
>
> Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...
>
> Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
> to.
>
> Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
> piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is 
> the
> cause of the leak.
>
> If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)
>
> If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
> inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
> which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
> other cars.
>
> I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized 
> now...which is
> likely a good thing.
>
> Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for 
> all of
> the support.
>
> Joe A....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Apr 22 07:18:55 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 09:18:55 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
Message-ID: <54116.6cfc12db.3901a6bf@aol.com>

Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy 
Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Apr 22 10:44:48 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:44:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cae23b$1f846a80$5e8d3f80$@com>

On our TR4 we had a 6 blade water pump and the shaft was turned down to
5/16-18 inch for the threaded end for the nut to hold the pulley on.  This
stub threaded shaft broke off, we overheated and cracked 2 liners.  I
replaced it with the 4 vane pump from Moss which has a 1/2 inch diameter,
12mm pitch thread to hold the pulley on.  It came with a Nylok nut but the
threaded portion is too short to engage the Nylok.  It's on my To Do list to
contact Moss for a spare 1/2 inch diameter, 12mm pitch nut!!  We noticed no
difference in cooling performance with the 4 vane versus the 6 vane.  And
the end of the shaft of the 4 vane didn't break off!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:57 PM
To: Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do
they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Apr 22 10:56:07 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:56:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube
 at rear bearing block.
In-Reply-To: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cae23c$b5634f20$2029ed60$@com>

As I recall, when I put in the new bearings in 2008 this tube was partially
blocked or maybe completely blocked with silicone sealant.  We had some
leakage but not a great deal as I recall.  I am still of the opinion that
the scroll seal will work properly IF: 1) The seal housing is centered on
the main journal using a mandrel, and; 2) The felt is pounded in using a
punch that fits the trapezoidal opening.  (That has been Kas's
recommendation.)  I've done this 3 times now and have not had any leaks from
the rear main.  We just fired up the engine after our bearing failure and
crank regrind from last Fall and again no  leaks from the rear main.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:25 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at
rear bearing block.

This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last
year.

Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...

Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
to.

Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is the
cause of the leak.

If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)

If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
other cars.

I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized now...which
is
likely a good thing.

Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for all
of
the support.

Joe A....
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Apr 22 10:57:12 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:57:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
References: <54116.6cfc12db.3901a6bf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005301cae23c$dadc0d50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Reminds me of what my old sponsor,  (mostly free advice)
an independent TR repair shop
told me a long time (40 years)ago.
It may be true that all you know you learned from Kas,
but don't think for a second he's taught you all he knows!

 art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>; <rjl6n at cstone.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads


> Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy
> Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net

From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Apr 22 11:36:32 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:36:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
In-Reply-To: <005301cae23c$dadc0d50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <20100422133632.Z6GHX.93930.imail@fed1rmwml29>

It is interesting the Greg has one of he heads and states that the edge on the spark plug side is thicker.  Terrific Morgan driver, Lew Spencer, is my great friend, and Greg now has his car, so as I had done some engines for Lew, maybe that is the routing of that piece. the thicker edge is true, but on some of them I noted strangely, that the shelf was very thin and actually had a slight curve and you could see the top of the block, just as edge that is, right at the back. So don't use the edge thickness of the pushrod shelf as a criteria. 
---- riverside <riverside at southslope.net> wrote: 

=============
Reminds me of what my old sponsor,  (mostly free advice)
an independent TR repair shop
told me a long time (40 years)ago.
It may be true that all you know you learned from Kas,
but don't think for a second he's taught you all he knows!

 art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>; <rjl6n at cstone.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads


> Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy
> Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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--
Never be beaten by equipment

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 22 17:19:41 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
Message-ID: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>

All,

I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld intrudes 
into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u-bolt sliding 
over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with the same 
problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?

Bob
57 TR3

From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 22 17:42:27 2010
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:42:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 cross tube
Message-ID: <963302.95161.qm@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have a friend that needs a front suspension cross tube for a 64 TR4. Does anyone have a good one laying around that they could part with?
He bought one on ebay and it turned out to be for a 4-A and apparently they are not the same.

Thanks,
Mike Munson

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr 22 18:17:05 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:17:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
In-Reply-To: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
References: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <907185C6-A44D-4C71-8885-E5F5E969F661@earthlink.net>

I noticed these required changes on my Southwick-converted TR3.     My  
car has two different diameter U bolts for the inside and outside.   
The outside has a big flange welded on by Soutwick.  I'l take some  
pics and email them to you.

~Steve


On Apr 22, 2010, at 4:19 PM, Bob wrote:

All,

I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld  
intrudes into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u- 
bolt sliding over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with  
the same problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?

Bob
57 TR3
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From horizonracing at msn.com  Fri Apr 23 08:14:45 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:14:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
In-Reply-To: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
References: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w61AC5BEA6702FDB39DC0A6B2070@phx.gbl>

YES ! I ground groves with a carbide to get the nessary clearance.

> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:41 -0400
> From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
>
> All,
>
> I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld intrudes
> into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u-bolt sliding
> over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with the same
> problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?
>
> Bob
> 57 TR3
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 23 19:28:29 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
Message-ID: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Well;
I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed. 
I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike Mehl

From mpendy at dishmail.net  Fri Apr 23 21:11:54 2010
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:11:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EC4C68DA070A4037BE38C340DAF43001@Pendys>

Mike, i can assume that you re-torgued the head a time or to and did the 
head studs get set in the block ok ? I had the same issue at the same 
corner, water was weeping up the stud threads and coming out at the nut and 
washer area, i let it set till morning, and gave it another torgue and that 
took care of it.........Mark P
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: "Triumph Friends of" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:28 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR


> Well;
> I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
> sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
> overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build 
> the
> engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with 
> a
> few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it 
> fixed.
> I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
> leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
> Looking for some
> tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
> thanks!!!!!
>
> Mike Mehl
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 24 04:18:20 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 05:18:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>

The stock composite gasket (Payen AE 330) is the easiest to get to 
seal, and to me is the gasket of choice for at track 
repairs.  Actually, I use it always just because I hate changing head 
gaskets at the track.

You'll need to take the carbs / exhaust loose and pull the 
head.  Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  They should be 
even with each other as well.  A liner with 0.005" next to a liner 
with 0.002" protrusion is a problem.  Look for obvious problems like 
a crack in the block to one of the stud holes too.  If you've got 
some copper coat or Edelbrock Gaskacinch coat the gasket with that 
and install the head.  Torque to 100 ft lbs in increments (say 60 ft 
lbs, then 80 ft lbs then 100 ft lbs), working from the center to the 
ends of the head.  For the final torque I always go back to the 
center of the head after I make it to the ends because the gasket 
crushes a bit more.

Reassemble valvetrain making sure to keep the adjuster screws in the 
ends of the pushrods.  Set the valves.  Install the manifolds.  Fill 
with water, and warm it up.  After you have it hot for a bit (maybe 
run one session?), you'll want to re-torque the head.  You'll need to 
pull the rockers and the valve cover studs to do that (as you would 
have had to when removing the head).

Hope it works out for you!

Good luck, Tony Drews

At 08:28 PM 4/23/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Well;
>I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
>sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
>overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
>engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
>few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
>I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
>leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
>Looking for some
>tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
>thanks!!!!!
>
>Mike Mehl
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 08:13:52 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:13:52 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
Message-ID: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 08:28:04 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 07:28:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0f3b01cae3ba$5a397e60$0301a8c0@randall>

> Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
> protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
> gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
> want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  

Since you are having problems, be sure to check on both sides!  I fought
head gasket problems for years on my street TR3A (with a TR3 motor) that
turned out to be caused by the deck not being square to the liner bores.
Protrusion was fine on the side I always checked, but less than .001" on the
other side!

Although not the best solution, adding .020" copper O-rings to the head
gasket around each cylinder made a suitable band-aid for the problem.  I
drove it that way for quite a few years, and it was still not leaking when
the car got wrecked.  I used 'electrical' tin/lead rosin core solder to tack
the copper wire to the gasket; but Ken G's suggestion of super glue would
probably work just as well.

Randall

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Sat Apr 24 09:15:08 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:15:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] XKCD Tackles Lucas Electrics - Lucas Electrics - Jalopnik
Message-ID: <24A2443283B94D30914F5BAC68E60E41@desktop>

More wiring than I've seen on a TR
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44



http://jalopnik.com/5521107/xkcd-tackles-lucas-electrics

From kaskas at cox.net  Sat Apr 24 09:35:03 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 8:35:03 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>

Just as a bit of information, I believe it is Snap-On that makes a special off set box end wrench (it is a "C" shape) so that you can torque the head without removing the rockers.  We used these on all the pre-delivery Triumphs cars brought into the country back in the early 60's. I believe I still have one somewhere. 
---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote: 

=============
The stock composite gasket (Payen AE 330) is the easiest to get to 
seal, and to me is the gasket of choice for at track 
repairs.  Actually, I use it always just because I hate changing head 
gaskets at the track.

You'll need to take the carbs / exhaust loose and pull the 
head.  Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  They should be 
even with each other as well.  A liner with 0.005" next to a liner 
with 0.002" protrusion is a problem.  Look for obvious problems like 
a crack in the block to one of the stud holes too.  If you've got 
some copper coat or Edelbrock Gaskacinch coat the gasket with that 
and install the head.  Torque to 100 ft lbs in increments (say 60 ft 
lbs, then 80 ft lbs then 100 ft lbs), working from the center to the 
ends of the head.  For the final torque I always go back to the 
center of the head after I make it to the ends because the gasket 
crushes a bit more.

Reassemble valvetrain making sure to keep the adjuster screws in the 
ends of the pushrods.  Set the valves.  Install the manifolds.  Fill 
with water, and warm it up.  After you have it hot for a bit (maybe 
run one session?), you'll want to re-torque the head.  You'll need to 
pull the rockers and the valve cover studs to do that (as you would 
have had to when removing the head).

Hope it works out for you!

Good luck, Tony Drews

At 08:28 PM 4/23/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Well;
>I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
>sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
>overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
>engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
>few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
>I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
>leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
>Looking for some
>tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
>thanks!!!!!
>
>Mike Mehl
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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--
Never be beaten by equipment

From billb at bnj.com  Sat Apr 24 10:23:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 06:23:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>
References: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>
Message-ID: <8EC25B7F-CA11-42E0-97E7-7541C1F78164@bnj.com>

Hmmm, I have a set of those, never found a use for them.

On Apr 24, 2010, at 5:35 AM, Kas Kastner wrote:

> Just as a bit of information, I believe it is Snap-On that makes a special
off set box end wrench (it is a "C" shape) so that you can torque the head
without removing the rockers.  We used these on all the pre-delivery Triumphs
cars brought into the country back in the early 60's. I believe I still have
one somewhere.

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 11:07:56 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 13:07:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 grill trinket
Message-ID: <4BD3256C.7000205@twcny.rr.com>

One last trinket I am looking for that I don't want reproduction since 
nothing else outside the engine internals is repop on this car. Thought 
one of you may have them in your pile of parts stripped off a racer - 
looking for the beauty rings around the small mouth for a '57.

Thanks,

M

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 11:21:39 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:21:39 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>

The problem is there is a
question as to whether Stahl
makes one for the IRS car.
jg

-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfire Racing
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
10:24 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Jim, It's worth the wait to
hear back from Stahl. They're
top shelf and do
build horsepower. Pieces like
Monza are crap and a waste of
money. Also,
avoid a place by the name of
Paco somewhere down south.
Alabama I think!I
run a Stahl and was amazed at
the quality and fit.

Russ Moore


-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
10:14 AM
To: 'fot'
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G
______________________________
_________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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cny.rr.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 24 15:20:30 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:20:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
Message-ID: <000501cae3f3$f8c700f0$ea5502d0$@com>

Call Ted Shumacher.  He has headers for the TR4 and we were able to order
ours with a thicker flange that mated up better to the intake manifold.  We
are quite pleased with it.  It did take some fitting with a carbide bit and
die grinder but nothing major.  Could have been fit up with a file and some
patience.  I'm guessing he can have his supplier make one to your needs.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 9:14 AM
To: 'fot'
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 15:46:40 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:46:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
Message-ID: <56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>

I have been bouncing my header off the ground in my TR4A too. I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits too far under the frame for off track 
excursions. If someone makes a better one for the application I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
> [mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl. They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces like
> Monza are crap and a waste of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
>
> I need a descent header for an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact Steve
> Stahl after hours. That didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
> ______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 16:05:07 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:05:07 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>

I'm getting pretty close to
making my own.
Mordy, do you still have the
flanges ?

Jim G

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer
[mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
3:47 PM
To: Jim Gray; 'Spitfire
Racing'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


I have been bouncing my header
off the ground in my TR4A too.
I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits
too far under the frame for
off track 
excursions. If someone makes a
better one for the application
I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable,
but if we chase perfection we
can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'"
<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph"
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
>
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl.
They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces
like
> Monza are crap and a waste
of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed
at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header
>
> I need a descent header for
an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now
is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know
anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact
Steve
> Stahl after hours. That
didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for
a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
>
______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
>
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
>
______________________________
_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr
.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 24 16:42:55 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:42:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
Message-ID: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>

Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 17:17:23 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:17:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
Message-ID: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>

After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the 
#@%% out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  
backfiring, changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared 
myself for. I do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 
minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, 
Tony Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... 
were talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures 
for boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 
other questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that 
helped me do it right the first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone 
sees something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday 
drives in before I see piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 24 17:41:59 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:41:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
In-Reply-To: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000501cae407$bce2bac0$36a83040$@com>

Congrats!!  A great "happy ending".  It is very gratifying after all the
work to hear that engine run and not see anything amiss.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 6:17 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: mechman54 at hotmail.com; quill3 at aol.com; Scott Eginton
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!

After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the 
#@%% out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  
backfiring, changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared 
myself for. I do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 
minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, 
Tony Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... 
were talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures 
for boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 
other questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that 
helped me do it right the first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone 
sees something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday 
drives in before I see piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Apr 24 18:02:36 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:02:36 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 41, Issue 35
Message-ID: <c882.4cfaec9d.3904e09c@aol.com>

I hope that you have a copy of the factory work shop manual (or  Bentley)
 
If you pull the head you need to hold down the liners if you even think of  
turning the crank.
 
The factory used lead wire under the head nuts to help seal them.  If  the 
head gasket sticks out into the combustion area it will fail in a few  laps. 
 GM makes the only sealer that I will use.
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/24/2010 10:49:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak  today at PIR
.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the  overflow tank.   I did not build the
engine and this is my first  triumph.  I had some off line discussions with 
a
few FOT folks trying  to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it 
fixed. 
I understand  there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking  to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for  some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike  Mehl

From jprettyleaf at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 24 18:21:51 2010
From: jprettyleaf at yahoo.com (Jim Prettyleaf)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:21:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
In-Reply-To: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <836857.38132.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 
Mark,
 
That is great news!  Hoping everything continues to go well during the
break-in and that you have all summer to enjoy your newly restored TR3.
 
Jim P
 

--- On Sat, 4/24/10, Mark Eginton <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com> wrote:


From: Mark Eginton <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: quill3 at aol.com, "Scott Eginton" <yachtscott at aol.com>, "Jim Prettyleaf"
<jprettyleaf at yahoo.com>, mechman54 at hotmail.com
Date: Saturday, April 24, 2010, 4:17 PM


After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 started as
if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the #@%% out of me
firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  backfiring, changing the
timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared myself for. I do not think it
even missed a beat for the entire 20 minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am
beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, Tony
Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... were talking
lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures for boring...
guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 other questions. A
hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that helped me do it right the
first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the rocker
assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely be going
back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone sees something
seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday drives in before I see
piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M

From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 18:36:12 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:36:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
References: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E6BA337A8A4E49B095ABBEDC5E2DAF1C@Bud>

Congratulations Pal!!
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <mechman54 at hotmail.com>; <quill3 at aol.com>; "Scott Eginton" 
<yachtscott at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 4:17 PM
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!


> After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
> started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the #@%% 
> out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  backfiring, 
> changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared myself for. I 
> do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 minute breakin. I'm 
> so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!
>
> First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, Tony 
> Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... were 
> talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures for 
> boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 other 
> questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that helped me 
> do it right the first time.
>
> There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
> machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
> rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
> be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone sees 
> something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday drives 
> in before I see piston tops again...
>
> Cheers from Ithaca,
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Apr 24 19:07:45 2010
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 01:07:45 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com><C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000><56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41><F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
Message-ID: <197485199-1272157649-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-66721007-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have header flanges... I purchased stahl preformed pipes and made my own.  Easy to do if motor is on engine stand. 

M
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:05:07 
To: 'Bob Kramer'<rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>; 'Spitfire Racing'<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: 'Friends of triumph'<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I'm getting pretty close to
making my own.
Mordy, do you still have the
flanges ?

Jim G

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer
[mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
3:47 PM
To: Jim Gray; 'Spitfire
Racing'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


I have been bouncing my header
off the ground in my TR4A too.
I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits
too far under the frame for
off track 
excursions. If someone makes a
better one for the application
I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable,
but if we chase perfection we
can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'"
<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph"
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
>
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl.
They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces
like
> Monza are crap and a waste
of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed
at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header
>
> I need a descent header for
an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now
is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know
anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact
Steve
> Stahl after hours. That
didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for
a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
>
______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
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> http://www.team.net/forums
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>
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>
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
>
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_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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http://www.team.net/donate.htm
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.com
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From stlnyc at msn.com  Sat Apr 24 19:32:32 2010
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:32:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>,
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>,
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>,
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>,
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>,
	<20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT125-W2078E30D8677DC1B531D1DDA050@phx.gbl>

From: stlnyc at msn.com
To: tony at tonydrews.com
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:30:02 -0600



Amici-

The difference between the TR-4 and TR-4A is the mounting brackets for the
lower a-arms.  The 4 has the old TR-3 mountings whereas the 4A has the TR-6
type brackets that go inside of the frame rail.  In the case of the Stahl
header for the 4, it wouldn't clear the mounting bracket.  Too much material
would have to be removed from the bracket to clear the header which
could/would prove unsafe.  Altering the header for clearance would screw up
the flow.

Fred Hodgson

> Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:42:55 -0500
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> From: tony at tonydrews.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
>
> Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header
> between a 4 and a 4A? I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
> >I'm getting pretty close to
> >making my own.
> >Mordy, do you still have the
> >flanges ?
> >
> >Jim G
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From ablake2 at austin.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 19:48:30 2010
From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:48:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
	<20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>

Why would that be?  Does the block sit lower relative to the frame in a 4a?

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 5:43 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 21:30:24 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 21:30:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com><C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000><56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41><F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000><20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
	<000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>

Fred said it all. A
significant amount of material
would need to be removed from
the frame or clearance the
tube. I'll build my own before
I do that.
Jim G.

-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On Behalf Of Greg &
Alison Blake
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
7:49 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Why would that be?  Does the
block sit lower relative to
the frame in a 4a?

-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
5:43 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Just for my background
knowledge, what's the
difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm
gathering that it should be
shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim
Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>
______________________________
_________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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l
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From mdhado at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 06:41:54 2010
From: mdhado at comcast.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:41:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>
Message-ID: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr 25 07:57:30 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 08:57:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C080B01A2E964374BFE31345A47937B3@latitudefb1e41>

I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I 
couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see 
that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was 
able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder to 
identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the stud 
hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he 
created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have 
spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the 
block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I 
manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the 
set screws, or just left them alone.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 25 08:39:34 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:39:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <EC0D5656-9487-4642-B598-D947D9F78C0D@earthlink.net>

Questions,
Is the engine being freshly built on the stand or is the head being  
replaced with the engine in the car?
As the head was being torqued on, one of the long studs pulled up  
through its threads deep in the block?

~Steve


On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:41 AM, M&M Hado wrote:

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown  
man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not  
the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Apr 25 11:15:19 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:15:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>
	<NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001e01cae49a$e32798c0$a976ca40$@com>

I saw once that a guy had made a new thread on the top of the block and used
a short bolt instead of a long one.
Did work as far I know.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von M&M Hado
Gesendet: Sonntag, 25. April 2010 14:42
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From harmug at us.ibm.com  Sun Apr 25 13:23:40 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 15:23:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>

Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
rebuild.

Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.

The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
the stock manifold.

Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?

thanks
mike



G. Michael Harmuth

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr 25 13:32:43 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:32:43 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@
	us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>

If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / fuel 
issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it off in 
timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.

If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be able 
to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris can 
clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.

- Tony

At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
>Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
>fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>rebuild.
>
>Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
>0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
>cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
>positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
>piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
>Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
>than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>
>The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
>compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
>who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
>the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
>clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
>rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
>inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
>hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
>the stock manifold.
>
>Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>
>thanks
>mike
>
>
>
>G. Michael Harmuth
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 13:39:28 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 09:39:28 -1000
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>

I'd also look for a massive air leak.
On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:

> If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / fuel issue.
Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it off in timing by a tooth
can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.
>
> If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be able to see a
little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris can clog the passage from
the float bowl to the jet.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
>> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
>> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>> rebuild.
>>
>> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
>> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr 25 13:48:00 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:48:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
	<967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>

That's an excellent point.  On the TR-4, there are pins on the side 
of the head the that fit into the intake manifold.  If you misalign 
the manifold a bit you can end up with the bottom of the manifold 
held away from the head by the pins leaving a huge gap - easy to make 
that mistake.

- Tony

At 02:39 PM 4/25/2010, Bill Babcock wrote:
>I'd also look for a massive air leak.
>On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / 
> fuel issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it 
> off in timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.
> >
> > If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be 
> able to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris 
> can clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.
> >
> > - Tony
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
> >> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
> >> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
> >> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
> >> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> >> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> >> rebuild.
> >>
> >> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
> >> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
> >> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
> >> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 13:50:11 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:50:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
References: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <87AB633423D049A0BD9097356626114B@Bud>

if your timing is way off you won't have vaccum to suck the gas in..maybe 
your distributor is way out..
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:23 PM
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild


> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> rebuild.
>
> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
> cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
> positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
> piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
> Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
> than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>
> The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
> compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
> who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
> the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
> clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
> rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
> inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
> hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
> the stock manifold.
>
> Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>
> thanks
> mike
>
>
>
> G. Michael Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 13:52:59 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:52:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
Message-ID: <41CDC82B321C4C249183F5F81361D319@Bud>

also..if you've got a single carb it must be a stromberg...be sure that the 
rubber diaphram is seated properly(with the notch in the correct spot)..and 
be sure it is not split..if you have a split in the rubber the car might 
start and then die almost immedietly .
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>; "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild


> if your timing is way off you won't have vaccum to suck the gas in..maybe 
> your distributor is way out..
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:23 PM
> Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
>
>
>> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. 
>> Confirmed
>> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>> rebuild.
>>
>> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port 
>> (flat
>> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
>> cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
>> positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
>> piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
>> Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has 
>> less
>> than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>>
>> The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
>> compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
>> who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re 
>> fired
>> the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
>> clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
>> rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
>> inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
>> hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
>> the stock manifold.
>>
>> Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>>
>> thanks
>> mike
>>
>>
>>
>> G. Michael Harmuth
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Apr 25 14:08:06 2010
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:08:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
Message-ID: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
 
 
I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the  
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed  
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Apr 25 14:08:30 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <007b01cae4b3$14489360$3cd9ba20$@com>

Probably interference between the intake and exhaust manifold didn't let the
intake manifold seal to the head.
Perhaps the new header flange needs "adjustment"?
Been there!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 25 16:26:24 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:26:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BD4C190.1060107@bradakis.com>

When I did it for Killer, I used a "bleed screw repair kit" I found in a bin
of brass bits at a local NAPA store.  I imagine a google search might
turn up something useful.

mjb.

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 25 17:22:46 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:22:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>

Hey Steve

Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl  
with a speed bleeder on one end?

~Steve

On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!


I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove  
the
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net

From bownes at seiri.com  Sun Apr 25 17:43:46 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:43:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <v2pd9f7bd331004251643k4c7bbe38jdf88455108aa7f87@mail.gmail.com>

I'm sure chris kantarjiecpv will chime in, but iirc, he ran a length
of braided hose up the firewall to a fitting.



On 4/25/10, Steven Belfer <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hey Steve
>
> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl
> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>
> ~Steve
>
> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>
>
> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove
> the
> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From mdhado at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 18:24:24 2010
From: mdhado at comcast.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:24:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <C080B01A2E964374BFE31345A47937B3@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>

Thanks, Bob & others who sent comments.

One idea was to get an oversize stud, at least on one end, and helicoil at
the top of the block and use a short stud.  I wouldn't want to enlarge the
hole in the head though so this would be a custom stud with different sizes
on each end.

If there were only a few threads engaged the first time around, maybe
cleaning up the bottom of the hole and chasing the treads might get enough
bite to try again.  It's in an engine stand so access is good.  He's going
to try this and if that fails, he already has found another head.  That's
probably his best choice anyway.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:58 AM
To: M&M Hado; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I
couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see
that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was
able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder to
identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the stud
hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he
created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have
spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the
block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I
manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the
set screws, or just left them alone.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message -----
From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 18:25:42 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:25:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com><F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
	<v2pd9f7bd331004251643k4c7bbe38jdf88455108aa7f87@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D8B0829E138340AC9809ACE7EC1EEE2D@Bud>

Hi Gang...if it's a racecar, the tunnel only needs 2 screws on the floor, 
and 1 bolt on the firewall to hold it in..that's what I have on my 
spitfire..it takes about 1-2 minutes to take off the tunnel..I suggest 
simplifying rather than complicating
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "Steven Belfer" <colordog.1 at earthlink.net>; <Gt6steve at aol.com>; 
<FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder


> I'm sure chris kantarjiecpv will chime in, but iirc, he ran a length
> of braided hose up the firewall to a fitting.
>
>
>
> On 4/25/10, Steven Belfer <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Hey Steve
>>
>> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl
>> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>>
>> ~Steve
>>
>> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>>
>>
>> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove
>> the
>> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
>> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 20:20:08 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:20:08 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>

I think I'd try a bottoming tap first. You'd have to make a super long one,
but that's not too hard. Maybe drop a thin pilot in and drill a little deeper.
The pilot would keep the drill from thinning out the existing threads. I have
no idea how close to breakthrough they took these holes at the factory, but I
bet there's some kind of margin, and I'm not sure what the problem would be
with breaking through anyway. If you could pick up a half inch of thread room
you'd be in pretty good shape. Perhaps if you DID drill through you could
helicoil from the inside. Or just get a good block and have at it.

On Apr 25, 2010, at 2:24 PM, M&M Hado wrote:

> Thanks, Bob & others who sent comments.
>
> One idea was to get an oversize stud, at least on one end, and helicoil at
> the top of the block and use a short stud.  I wouldn't want to enlarge the
> hole in the head though so this would be a custom stud with different sizes
> on each end.
>
> If there were only a few threads engaged the first time around, maybe
> cleaning up the bottom of the hole and chasing the treads might get enough
> bite to try again.  It's in an engine stand so access is good.  He's going
> to try this and if that fails, he already has found another head.  That's
> probably his best choice anyway.
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:58 AM
> To: M&M Hado; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
>
>
> I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I
> couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see
> that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was
> able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder
to
> identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the
stud
> hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he
> created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have
> spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the
> block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I
> manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the
> set screws, or just left them alone.
>
> Bob Kramer
> Volente, TX
>
> Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
> excellence.
> Vince Lombardi
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
> Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
>
>
>> A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 25 20:29:05 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:29:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <976191.24797.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Well it sure is looking like it was the water pump.  Also the header could
could have contributed to the problem.   Thanks to Greg Hilyer (lots of phone
conversations) and Tony Drews for the extra help.   Thanks to all the FOT
folks who pointed out to look at the water pump.  I will get it back running
next weekend and we will see.  At least I am getting to know my way around the
TR.  I had to laugh at my driveway last weekend.  A TR4 a Fiero and a 62
Corvair Greenbrier van.  We are the wierd car folks in the neighbor hood.
Mike




________________________________
From: Mike Mehl
<mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri,
April 23, 2010 6:28:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
Well;
I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.  I did not build the
engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike Mehl
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 25 20:33:24 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:33:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <11ca01cae4e8$d8c400f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I think I'd try a bottoming tap first. You'd have to make a 
> super long one,
> but that's not too hard. 

There are tap extensions that should fit; or I've had pretty good luck
finding a 1/4" drive socket that will work.  (All those x/32 sizes had to be
good for something!)

If that doesn't work, my approach would be to just Helicoil & be done with
it.

Or find another block.

Randall

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Sun Apr 25 20:56:58 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:56:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>

I have no opinion on this and no experience with this product... but I 
thought I'd throw it in the mix for discussion....  Follow link...  
--Justin 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF



M&M Hado wrote:

>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sun Apr 25 21:00:54 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:00:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
	<967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
	<20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cae4ec$b10637f0$1312a7d0$@com>

Ryan can also attest to the problem caused when the intake manifold on the
TR4 is not seated on the pins properly!  If you've got SU's you should be
able to see the pistons moving up and down quite a bit as you are cranking
it with the ignition shut off.  If not, you've got a massive intake leak
someplace.  Now we check to see if the pistons on the SU's are moving up and
down after we have the manifolds off to make sure we don't have that
problem.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 2:48 PM
To: Bill Babcock
Cc: fot at autox.team.net; George Harmuth
Subject: Re: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild

That's an excellent point.  On the TR-4, there are pins on the side 
of the head the that fit into the intake manifold.  If you misalign 
the manifold a bit you can end up with the bottom of the manifold 
held away from the head by the pins leaving a huge gap - easy to make 
that mistake.

- Tony

At 02:39 PM 4/25/2010, Bill Babcock wrote:
>I'd also look for a massive air leak.
>On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / 
> fuel issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it 
> off in timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start
too.
> >
> > If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be 
> able to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris 
> can clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.
> >
> > - Tony
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
> >> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild
of
> >> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The
car
> >> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own.
Confirmed
> >> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> >> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> >> rebuild.
> >>
> >> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port
(flat
> >> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check,
putting
> >> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed
the
> >> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sun Apr 25 21:04:04 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:04:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>

Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a repaired stud.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Justin Wagner
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:57 PM
To: M&M Hado
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block

I have no opinion on this and no experience with this product... but I 
thought I'd throw it in the mix for discussion....  Follow link...  
--Justin 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF



M&M Hado wrote:

>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com
_______________________________________________
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr 25 21:18:12 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 23:18:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4BD505F4.9030204@bright.net>

List, we make a remote bleeder set up for most Brit cars. Ted


Steven Belfer wrote:
> Hey Steve
>
> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl 
> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>
> ~Steve
>
> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>
>
> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the
> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net

From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Sun Apr 25 21:36:25 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:36:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9E294433479248EC8BF13381E7AB6675@jrg>

Whatever line you ran up from the slave would need an end with the proper
taper fitting to "terminate" the line.   Maybe not too tough.. But if Ted S
has a setup, maybe it's simpler (aka cheaper) than figuring your own?

On my Spitfire(s) I cheat and use the "2x4" bleeding method.  A 2x4 to push
the clutch pedal to the floor.   Let it sit a day or 4 and that's usually
enough to get the air out of the line.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfire(s) 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Belfer
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 6:23 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder

Hey Steve

Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl with
a speed bleeder on one end?

~Steve

On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!


I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.805 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2834 - Release Date: 04/25/10
13:31:00

From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 21:42:33 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:42:33 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
	<000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
Message-ID: <13451F39-C4BE-460C-9C77-79AC39D72130@bnj.com>

Truth be told, you could probably clean the hole out really good, coat the
stud liberally with JB weld, pump the hole full and call it good. It would
probably hold until the heat death of the universe.

On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:04 PM, Tim Murphy wrote:

> Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a repaired stud.
>
> Tim

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 26 00:17:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 23:17:39 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net><4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
	<000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
Message-ID: <11f501cae508$2c8d3070$0301a8c0@randall>

> Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a 
> repaired stud.

Doesn't seem likely that it would be much  stronger with a stud than with a
bolt ... the figures in the file Justin linked to say about 16 ftlb for a
1/2" bolt.

I've had much the same experience with JB Weld.  It's marvelous stuff, but
it's strength is closer to hard plastic than steel.

Randall

From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 08:29:23 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:29:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
Message-ID: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
list?

Thanks,

Bob Adams

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Mon Apr 26 08:35:46 2010
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:35:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon Apr 26 09:04:49 2010
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:04:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to move
them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They gave
me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them. I'm OK with
copying as long as it's not for sale as I will someday put the 6 or so I have
left on eBay. I think I sold them for $15.00 to recover the cost of having
them moved to VHS. Once I got my money covered I lost momentum and technology
moved on.

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
Ziglar



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Adams
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 9:29 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
list?

Thanks,

Bob Adams
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From herald948 at aol.com  Mon Apr 26 09:29:05 2010
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:29:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <8CCB36C57530DC9-20A4-174ED@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com>

 Do you mean casting number as in a number literally cast into the block, or
is it a stamped serial number?

Normally, the "FE" prefix would indicate an "emissions controlled" Spitfire
Mk3 1296 engine.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2010 10:35 am
Subject: [Fot] FE30830


Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 26 09:31:26 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:31:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>

> I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
> tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
move
> them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
gave
> me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.



> Bob Kramer


I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.



But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.



The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.



Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.



John H.

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon Apr 26 09:35:21 2010
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:35:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Your right, it was Cumberland. The Marlboro tape was very "Spritish".

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
Ziglar

________________________________
From: John Herrera [mailto:jrherrera90 at hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:31 AM
To: Kramer, Robert; Bob Adams; Friends of Triumph
Subject: RE: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

> I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
> tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
move
> them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
gave
> me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.

> Bob Kramer

I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.

But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.

The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.

Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.

John H.

From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 26 09:43:09 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:43:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <497947.54903.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just a WAG .... But it sounds like a 69ish spit 3 to me ..


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/26/10, Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:


From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 9:35 AM


Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 09:54:51 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:54:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <o2w673993c51004260854ide1b422q386a666409148a97@mail.gmail.com>

Just found the rest of the posts in the archive. Case of mistaken identity.
Thanks for the corrections.

Bob

On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 11:35 AM, Kramer, Robert
<RKramer at rdoequipment.com>wrote:

>  Your right, it was Cumberland. The Marlboro tape was very Spritish.
>
>
>
> Bob Kramer
>
> Sales Manager
>
> RDO Equipment Company
>
> 16415 N. IH 35
>
> Pflugerville, TX 78660
>
> 512-272-4141
>
> *It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
> Ziglar*
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* John Herrera [mailto:jrherrera90 at hotmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 10:31 AM
> *To:* Kramer, Robert; Bob Adams; Friends of Triumph
> *Subject:* RE: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT
> archives
>
>
>
> > I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the
> VHS
> > tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
> move
> > them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
> gave
> > me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.
>
> > Bob Kramer
>
> I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.
>
> But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
> tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.
>
> The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
> There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.
>
> Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.
>
> John H.

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Mon Apr 26 10:02:44 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:02:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>

Buzz lives in south Florida and I have run into him a couple of times at Moroso and Sebring. He was racing an RX7. In the early days he briefly raced an early Sunbeam and then on to TR's and Toyota's. I remember him well. He owned a TR/Toyota dealership in Glenside, PA while I was a general manager at a competing dearlership down the road, Maginnis Imported Cars (TR, Jaguar, Rover, MG), in Horsham, PA., circa early 1980's.

Bob
1957 TR3

 
---- Bob Adams <adams910 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
> Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
> list?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob Adams
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 10:08:30 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
Message-ID: <q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

He's racing a RX-8 in Improved Touring R now. It's a blue and yellow car.
Neat little fact; The Toyota he raced (and Dick Stockton built) in IMSA was
the first Toyota to win a professional event in North America.

On a different note, I was looking for video from this past SCCA VIR
National, and found these
http://www.youtube.com/user/pylon256#p/u/0/mYfHZvnv9bo . They should be of
interest to some of you.


Thanks,

Bob Adams

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Apr 26 10:24:57 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 18:24:57 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
	<q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c001cae55d$05ba11c0$112e3540$@com>

Be you might would like to have a look on this:
http://www.tr4-racing.de/pic/buzz/Index.html

Cheers
Chris


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bob Adams
Gesendet: Montag, 26. April 2010 18:09
An: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

Bob,

He's racing a RX-8 in Improved Touring R now. It's a blue and yellow car.
Neat little fact; The Toyota he raced (and Dick Stockton built) in IMSA was
the first Toyota to win a professional event in North America.

On a different note, I was looking for video from this past SCCA VIR
National, and found these
http://www.youtube.com/user/pylon256#p/u/0/mYfHZvnv9bo . They should be of
interest to some of you.


Thanks,

Bob Adams
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon Apr 26 17:15:21 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4BD61E89.9020408@charter.net>

Thanks to all for the advice on fixing the rear axle clunk in the car. 
The car should show up in my driveway sometime this week. We'll see how 
much of a job it is.
I have repaired many of these but on frame off restorations.

Just made reservations at the Jekyll club resort hotel. See you at VTR

Glenn

Glenn Franco wrote:
> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired 
> cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still 
> on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the 
> best method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to 
> repair it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Tue Apr 27 08:52:05 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:52:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild-fixed
Message-ID: <OF9B354FFE.1DF8B0A7-ON85257712.00512804-85257712.0051AC40@us.ibm.com>

I found a clogged choke port inside the carb (single semi-smog Stromberg
1.5"). If I hadn't just done a rebuild and suspected the worse I would have
looked closer at the carb. I have the engine running and ready for a break
in trip this weekend.

 Thanks all the helpful tips and pointers.

mike

G. Michael Harmuth

assorted Spitfires and a  GT6

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Apr 27 15:11:20 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:11:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed
Message-ID: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Can someout out there tell me what the thread sizes are for the following
components on a spitfire...my car is 900 miles away so I don't have easy
access...



Inner Tie rod thread to ball joint

bolt for the Radius rod attachment to the chassis bracket or to the vertical
link

boltB through the spring at the top of the vertical link



aaron

From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Tue Apr 27 17:52:01 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:52:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed
In-Reply-To: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F15DF99F19904F9B966177501DD1B90A@jrg>

Aaron,

Radius arm to pivot brackets and links-   3/8"x24 tpi x 2 1/4" bolt
Spring to vertical link   7/16"x20 bolt approx 3" (factory manual didn't
list length)
Inner Tie Rod to outer tie rod thread 1/2x20 thread


HTH


Jim
Dallas

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of fpspitfire at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 4:11 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed

Can someout out there tell me what the thread sizes are for the following
components on a spitfire...my car is 900 miles away so I don't have easy
access...



Inner Tie rod thread to ball joint

bolt for the Radius rod attachment to the chassis bracket or to the vertical
link

boltB through the spring at the top of the vertical link



aaron
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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13:27:00

From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr 28 23:20:09 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 22:20:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 intake flanges
Message-ID: <BC06BFEDB29A42A9AF0014B4EE173EF5@hpa1477c>

Does anyone make a steel intake flange for the TR3/4 engine?

 

I'm playing around with an induction system and don't have the capability to
weld aluminum, especially the thickness of the OEM flange, so I'd like to
find a steel flange to use, at least until I've proven it out.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jack

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Apr 29 07:55:45 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 09:55:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hoosier C9000 SliX
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004290947560.5546@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

If anyone out there is running the "new design" C9000 (I think that's what 
they're called) Hoosier bias-ply slicks, I'd be most interested in sharing 
setup information.

I put a set of the previous style Hossier slicks on a couple years ago, 
and I felt like my times were off by a second or so from when I ran 
Goodyear bias slicks (cantelever).

My "consultant" thinks I should switch to radial slicks. Umm, no. That 
means buying 8 10" wide rims. I already have a stack of 7"... plus the 
settings are totally different than bias so I'd have to buy drys and 
rains...

My big problem is that the input is very vague and you have to more or 
less slide the car everywhere. I lose tons of times getting the car to 
take a set. The GY's were INSTANT when you turned in. No slidey thing 
going on at all unless you were very, very far out of shape.

My brakes suck too, perhaps that's the bigger part of the equation and 
I'll look into that. But these tires are not to my liking at the present.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Apr 29 09:42:47 2010
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:42:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
Message-ID: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello all, 
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
Thanks, 
Dave H. 

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 29 10:37:46 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100429163746.NRPBT.243571.root@cdptpa-web20-z02>

I think you may find the inside edge of the spring pan resting against the spring tower. If that is the case, TR6 spring pans cure the problem since they are a different shape at the back edge.

Bob

---- davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Hello all, 
> I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
> Thanks, 
> Dave H. 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu Apr 29 11:04:26 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:04:26 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001b01cae7be$06c42200$144c6600$@com>

If you run some negative camber you get to the limit of the upper ball joint
movement.
I did fit a 8mm rubber on the bumpers to avoid stressing the ball joint.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von davehogye
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 29. April 2010 17:43
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue

Hello all,
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my
TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring
pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball
joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball
joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the
suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess
that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave H.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 29 11:50:07 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:50:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <856042.19179.qm@web81708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Did you also change the TR3 trunnions to those of the TR4 ( 3degrees of caster)?

Dennis


Hello all, 
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
Thanks, 
Dave H. 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu Apr 29 13:46:14 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:46:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4BD9E206.2050606@bright.net>

We will beat Carlisle. Spaces E63 & E64. If you have something you need 
for me to bring out, please let me know.Save on shipping - especially if 
a large item(s). Will be there Thursday afternoon through late Saturday 
afternoon. Will have steelbraid hoses, suspension components, our gear 
reduction starters and much more. Please come by and say hello. Thanks,Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 29 14:56:12 2010
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:56:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hoosier C9000 SliX
Message-ID: <666573.14040.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I too have tried the Hoosiers slicks several times and I have found that I was just as fast on their dot tires as I was on their slicks that were larger. I don't know what the deal was on that. Inhave always liked the GY slicks better.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 29, 2010, at 8:55 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

Hi,

If anyone out there is running the "new design" C9000 (I think that's what they're called) Hoosier bias-ply slicks, I'd be most interested in sharing setup information.

I put a set of the previous style Hossier slicks on a couple years ago, and I felt like my times were off by a second or so from when I ran Goodyear bias slicks (cantelever).

My "consultant" thinks I should switch to radial slicks. Umm, no. That means buying 8 10" wide rims. I already have a stack of 7"... plus the settings are totally different than bias so I'd have to buy drys and rains...

My big problem is that the input is very vague and you have to more or less slide the car everywhere. I lose tons of times getting the car to take a set. The GY's were INSTANT when you turned in. No slidey thing going on at all unless you were very, very far out of shape.

My brakes suck too, perhaps that's the bigger part of the equation and I'll look into that. But these tires are not to my liking at the present.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 29 21:51:33 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:51:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
Message-ID: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

AMICI - sorry to bomb the list

Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
Thanks
Dennis DeLap here in Illinois

From dave at microworks.net  Fri Apr 30 00:12:55 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 23:12:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>

Austin America oddity.

Two weekends ago was the BEAT Rally.  One of the prizes they give each 
year is for the most desirable car.  There are two Judges.  One whom 
drives a car from the "Continent" and the other Judge drives a car from 
the "Isles".  They are supposed to pick the car (about 150 to choose 
from) that they like the best.  The critera is simple.

"If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the 
ignition which car would you take."

This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America (page 2, 
right side row 3 near the E-Type, Bentley, A-H 3000)  .  It was a nice 
example no doubt but....

Look over the Photo Gallery of cars that were on the trip and tell me if 
it would have been your choice too.

http://www.beataz.com

Here is the Gallery of the cars on the road.  You can select the other 
2010 Photo Sections (and previous years) from the Galleries menu

FYI: I was driving the 63k original miles 1975 Maserati Merak shown on 
photo page 4 on the bottom left near the red Ferrari Daytona, black 
Porsche 935, yellow Lamborghini Gallardo, etc...

On 4/29/2010 8:51 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> AMICI - sorry to bomb the list
>
> Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
> ...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
> Thanks
> Dennis DeLap here in Illinois

From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Apr 30 10:22:52 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:22:52 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BDB03DC.9060107@dfn.com>

Dennis DeLap wrote:
> AMICI - sorry to bomb the list
>
> Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
> ...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
>   

My ex-wife had an MG1100 (pretty much same-same), and before we were 
married, that was my very first engine rebuild, in which I think I 
forgot to put in the thrust washers, because, afterwards, it pumped oil 
out the rear main seal every time it was clutched. :)


Much later, I worked at a Toyota dealership in Florida, the service 
manager of which was an irascible fellow by the name of Bill Campbell, 
who once had a BMC-VW-Porsche dealership of his own, but had eventually 
lost it because he was paying more attention to his Super Vee racing 
than to business. He once said that BMC had arranged a mandatory 
motivational sales meeting for the Southeast region because sales 
weren't going well.  Professional marketing motivators were hired, and 
all weekend, the assembled were pummeled with the theme, "RMA," or,  
"Right Mental Attitude."  Finally, weary of this, because they all knew 
why sales were bad (the lousy reputation of the car in question), when 
the motivator shouted at them, "what does RMA stand for?!,"  in unison, 
they shouted back, "REPAIR MY AMERICA!"


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri Apr 30 11:23:18 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:23:18 -0600
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS12FA8D85454269A349EB67B7000@phx.gbl>

Recently I had to swap out my water temp gauge. I have heard that the sending
unit that came with it needs to be in place for accurate readings. I've been
seeing a higher than usual reading is the reason for my question. The existing
tapped port is a #6 Brit parallel thread according to my local Parker Store
rep. instead of 3/8x18 pipe thread.
thanks in advance,

Kevin

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 30 11:50:29 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>
Message-ID: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>

> "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> ignition which car would you take."
> 
> This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America

Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>

I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
just!

-- Randall 

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Apr 30 13:22:15 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 15:22:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100430192215.0863H.261209.root@cdptpa-web26-z01>

I had one in automatic where the transmission shared oil with the engine. Not a bad ride.

Bob
57TR3
---- Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> > "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> > ignition which car would you take."
> > 
> > This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America
> 
> Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>
> 
> I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
> work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
> just!
> 
> -- Randall 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Fri Apr 30 13:22:29 2010
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:22:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <563020.87416.qm@web81206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I do remember years ago, at Roebling Road, Jack Woerle was running either an
MG 1100 or an Austin America. Ted S. and I were co-driving an 1147 Spitty, and
Jack was quite fast and a bear to get around in the turns when he was up on
two wheels. Very impressive from behind. Finally passed him on the front
straight.
Great fun!
-Ed-

--- On Fri, 4/30/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:


From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Austin America question
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 12:50 PM


> "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> ignition which car would you take."
>
> This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America

Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>

I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
just!

-- Randall
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Apr 30 14:22:44 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:22:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question
References: <SNT123-DS12FA8D85454269A349EB67B7000@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CF66444D552249AD96B46C4F4C966FFD@Bud>

Hi Kevin..borrow a temperature gun and shoot it at the area where the 
sending unit goes into the radiator...see if the #s match..
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KEVIN LYNCH" <klynch_6 at msn.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question


> Recently I had to swap out my water temp gauge. I have heard that the 
> sending
> unit that came with it needs to be in place for accurate readings. I've 
> been
> seeing a higher than usual reading is the reason for my question. The 
> existing
> tapped port is a #6 Brit parallel thread according to my local Parker 
> Store
> rep. instead of 3/8x18 pipe thread.
> thanks in advance,
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Apr  1 18:15:08 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:15:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 weight distribution?
Message-ID: <4BB5370C.5070108@blacksburg.net>

I'm doing some front suspension ground clearance calculations.  Does 
anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of a stock TR4?

tia

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Apr  1 18:25:14 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Message-ID: <4BB5396A.9050207@blacksburg.net>

A friend has a newly rebuilt, warmed-over TR4 he's installing in his 
TR3.  The engine builder installed a Mallory dual point distributor but 
provided no instructions.  Does anyone have the setup instructions for 
setting the initial timing and how to set the second set of points?

tia, again

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Thu Apr  1 20:39:45 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:39:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Message-ID: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Thu Apr  1 20:49:35 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 02:49:35 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Message-ID: <20100401.224935.29502.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

Instructions are available at:
http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/Single_Dual_point.pdf

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:25:14 -0400

A friend has a newly rebuilt, warmed-over TR4 he's installing in his
TR3.  The engine builder installed a Mallory dual point distributor but
provided no instructions.  Does anyone have the setup instructions for
setting the initial timing and how to set the second set of points?

tia, again

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


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From tpettenati at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  2 08:09:14 2010
From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 07:09:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <624871.19678.qm@web180315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Jim,

The PO of my spit told me of a similar problem he had with the car.  He
went through the same attempted fixes, balancing the tires, replacing the
u-joints, having the driveshaft balanced.  The final cure was replacing the
driveshaft.  I'm not positive but I think the new shaft is fixed length, where
as the old one was a slip joint.  I'll take a look under the car tonight and
let you know for sure.

My old Haynes manual shows both types of driveshaft,
the 'frictionless'  (slip joint) and the solid propeller shaft.  I'm not sure
I understand the need for a slip joint with a fixed rear diff.  Here is what
is listed for lengths of the different shafts.  Just in case you decide to try
a fixed length shaft.

BRD solid            41.62" (105.72 cm)
BRD
frictionless    41.37" (105.09 cm)
BRD frictionless    38.00" (96.52 cm)
(w/
overdrive)   

Cheers,
Tim

----- Original Message ----
From: Norlin
Engineering <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu,
April 1, 2010 7:39:45 PM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the
chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it
sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't
really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's
in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing
the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost
undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they
suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers
were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've
searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The
factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of
death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old
shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tpettenati at yahoo.com


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Fri Apr  2 10:15:59 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:15:59 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Message-ID: <20100402.121559.11475.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com>

When I raced a Spit, I had a similar issue.  Checked driveshaft balance and
still had the problem.  I do not recall if it was a slip joint driveshaft?  My
car had a lot of rear camber and I just attributed the vibration to the axle
u-joints running at such an angle.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Norlin Engineering" <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:39:45 -0700

Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.



____________________________________________________________
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From robertten1 at aol.com  Fri Apr  2 12:44:59 2010
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:44:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <8CCA0ABBB423039-1BF4-9C10@webmail-m082.sysops.aol.com>

 Jim -

I just rebuilt my driveshaft last year and no the little barrle bearings
inside the slider joint are not to be found.  I had to order longer ones and
cut them down on an EDM machine, radius and polish the ends.  The size is
3/16" diameter by 3/16" long and note the length cannot vary more than +/-
.0005" or you will run into a problem of sliding it all back together.  New
U-Joints and the hole assembly balanced and it looks and runs like new.  I'll
admit I haven't had a chance to make a long run at high rpm's but so far it is
a vast improvement from before the work.

I did check industrial supply shops, industrial bearing suppliers and several
bearing specialty repair shops.  All said the same thing ... order larger and
have them modified to size.

Best of luck,
Bob T.
'64 Spit GT autocrosser








-----Original Message-----
From: Norlin Engineering <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 1, 2010 10:39 pm
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations


Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertten1 at aol.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sat Apr  3 09:48:54 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 08:48:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

First off, thanks to all that responded - I never cease to be amazed by the
collective knowledge of this group.

I'll let you know what I decide to do after talking with the owner of the
driveline company on Monday.  He called me Thursday and we talked for over
20 minutes about my driveline.  He's got a personal interest in old race
cars and wants to make this totally right.  It was his opinion that if we
could properly rebuild the original type joint, it would be superior to a
modern spline joint - obviously one man's opinion, but he has been in the
business for a long time.  Anyway, his conversation with me is what started
me down this path.

Thanks again - more later.

Jim


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr  3 20:39:55 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 22:39:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
Message-ID: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>

My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it 
is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
daily driver...

Happy Easter for those who celebrate...

M


From billb at bnj.com  Sat Apr  3 21:31:52 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 17:31:52 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>

Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you like.
Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any more.
On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. How
serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday unless
I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone
thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love
GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling
clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sat Apr  3 21:57:46 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 20:57:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1D0DB9D4CA4D4978B23B58589E48EE59@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

My engine builder provides me with Joe Gibbs break in oil.  Typically run it
for the first race weekend before switching to Redline.  

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 7:40 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it 
is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
daily driver...

Happy Easter for those who celebrate...

M

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr  3 22:52:10 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 23:52:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>

Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local 
stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they 
use for ZDDP).  I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but 
it should be fine without.  The other recommendations are good to but 
probably not locally available.

I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic 
version of the same.  Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs 
or Royal Purple.

Tony Drews

At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
>My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil 
>but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know 
>what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the 
>neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the 
>internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 
>wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought 
>were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I 
>love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on 
>it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
>Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
>M


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Sun Apr  4 06:57:34 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:57:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race weekend.B  If
it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use Rotella-T then switch it out
to VR-1.



After the first weekend I switch to Redline.



aaron



#87 HP Spitfire 1500

Southern Illinois Region SCCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil

Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
use for ZDDP). B I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
it should be fine without. B The other recommendations are good to but
probably not locally available.

I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
version of the same. B Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
or Royal Purple.

Tony Drews

At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
>My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
>but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
>what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
>neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
>internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
>wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
>were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
>love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
>it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
>Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
>M

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr  4 07:17:49 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:17:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <402DA5FC6C4D4691BEB1AC6517B31532@latitudefb1e41>

I use Valvoline VR1 like Tony, but I add the Comp cams additive instead. 
FWIW, my local speed shop carries Joe Gibbs break-in oil, yours may too. I 
work for a John Deere dealership and we carry it too but I haven't tried it 
as it is formulated for diesels. It may very well be suitable.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday 
> unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would 
> just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the 
> additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 
> 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with 
> almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily 
> driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr  4 07:57:57 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 08:57:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>
	<569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100404145744.D417B187662@autox.team.net>

Supposedly, Rotella T has dropped the ZDDP amount in the last couple of years.

- Tony

At 07:57 AM 4/4/2010, fpspitfire at comcast.net wrote:

>I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race 
>weekend.  If it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use 
>Rotella-T then switch it out to VR-1.
>
>
>
>After the first weekend I switch to Redline.
>
>
>
>aaron
>
>
>
>#87 HP Spitfire 1500
>
>Southern Illinois Region SCCA
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
>Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
>
>Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
>stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
>use for ZDDP).  I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
>it should be fine without.  The other recommendations are good to but
>probably not locally available.
>
>I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
>version of the same.  Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
>or Royal Purple.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
> >My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
> >but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
> >what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
> >neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
> >internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
> >wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
> >were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
> >love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
> >it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
> >
> >Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
> >
> >M
>
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Apr  4 08:47:03 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 10:47:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4BB8A667.7030507@blacksburg.net>

On 4/3/2010 10:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but 
> I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what 
> it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors 
> Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to 
> my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had 
> "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought were necessary as 
> the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of 
> great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean 
> inside - original turbo - daily driver...
Mark, I hear ya about wanting to irritate the neighbors, but be sure to 
follow Isky's advice about the oil.  My cam came with their sheet 
recommending Brad Penn, (now going from memory: Valvoline VR-1 
"non-racing" oil, then some grade of Pennzoil?).  Brad Penn is available 
from www.cdoc.com, probably others too.  Valvoline VR-1 (be careful, 
ISTR that there are 2 VR-1 formulations; the one you want says "not for 
street use") which was available at my local Napa store.  If you have 
shops around which cater to the roundy-round crowd, or dragster-types, 
they will surely stock it.  If all else fails and you really want to 
fire it up PDQ, a can of extra ZDDP added to your favorite non-synthetic 
should do fine.  FWIW, a local shop that caters to the straight-line 
crowd wanted $9 for a can of the ZDDP.
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
Thanks, and Happy Easter to you.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From tlizzard at msn.com  Sun Apr  4 09:30:37 2010
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:30:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>

Brad Penn does indeed make a break in oil.

When last I spoke to one of their tech people he said to use it for the
initial start up/ring seating only, then dump it.

Terry Stetler.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Babcock<mailto:billb at bnj.com>
  To: Mark Eginton<mailto:markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 11:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


  Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you
like.
  Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
  used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any
more.
  On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

  > My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
  can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is.
How
  serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday
unless
  I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
  Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives
everyone
  thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
love
  GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it
sparkling
  clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
  >
  > Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
  >
  > M
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>

  _______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr  4 09:33:57 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 10:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
  <4BB8A667.7030507@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <F2057E46325740B9B754E1C4033E329E@latitudefb1e41>

The on the shelf VR1 has the ZDDP again. I think oil manufacturers realized 
that modern cars, which would have had emmission components compromised by 
ZDDP, just don't call for straight weight 30,40 and 50 and 20w50 grades. 
When their customers learned about what the lack of ZDDP could/would do to 
flat tappet cams their sales hit the skids as we looked for other oils, so 
they eventually put the ZDDP back in. Check out the shelves and the labels. 
The VR1 bottles often have stickers on them pointing to the fact that they 
put is back. I'm pretty sure that the MSDS sheets online have also been 
updated with this info. For $3.99 a bottle VR1 is a bargain.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> On 4/3/2010 10:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
>> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
>> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
>> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
>> Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
>> I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
>> the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
>> thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
>> SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
>> daily driver...
> Mark, I hear ya about wanting to irritate the neighbors, but be sure to 
> follow Isky's advice about the oil.  My cam came with their sheet 
> recommending Brad Penn, (now going from memory: Valvoline VR-1 
> "non-racing" oil, then some grade of Pennzoil?).  Brad Penn is available 
> from www.cdoc.com, probably others too.  Valvoline VR-1 (be careful, ISTR 
> that there are 2 VR-1 formulations; the one you want says "not for street 
> use") which was available at my local Napa store.  If you have shops 
> around which cater to the roundy-round crowd, or dragster-types, they will 
> surely stock it.  If all else fails and you really want to fire it up PDQ, 
> a can of extra ZDDP added to your favorite non-synthetic should do fine. 
> FWIW, a local shop that caters to the straight-line crowd wanted $9 for a 
> can of the ZDDP.
>>
>> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>>
> Thanks, and Happy Easter to you.
>
> jim
>
> -- 
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Sun Apr  4 12:47:59 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:47:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
Message-ID: <FF29958E3BFE4D7A843CE162344FD1A6@desktop>

I've just purchased 2 cases of this stuff.
Happy Easter
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgRWiRUI-Ps


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr  4 14:23:45 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:23:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
References: <FF29958E3BFE4D7A843CE162344FD1A6@desktop>
Message-ID: <E278FA0232A340C2B187AA9364DF64B3@Bud>

Thanks Charly...I loved it...Happy Easter..Racer Bud spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 11:47 AM
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6


> I've just purchased 2 cases of this stuff.
> Happy Easter
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
>
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgRWiRUI-Ps
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr  4 15:52:26 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 17:52:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
	<BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4BB90A1A.6070002@bright.net>

Terry, right you are.  Also, do not switch immediately to synthetic. 
Even though they start and run new Corvette's on Mobil 1, we cannot get 
the correct bore finish that is on modern engines. Ted


Terry Stetler wrote:
> Brad Penn does indeed make a break in oil.
>
> When last I spoke to one of their tech people he said to use it for the
> initial start up/ring seating only, then dump it.
>
> Terry Stetler.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Bill Babcock<mailto:billb at bnj.com>
>   To: Mark Eginton<mailto:markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
>   Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 11:31 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
>
>
>   Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you
> like.
>   Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
>   used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any
> more.
>   On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
>
>   > My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
>   can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is.
> How
>   serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday
> unless
>   I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
>   Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives
> everyone
>   thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
> love
>   GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it
> sparkling
>   clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>   >
>   > Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>   >
>   > M
>   >
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>   > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
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>
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Apr  4 18:44:46 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 20:44:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <015d01cad459$31637560$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, they have a 2.5 gallon can of Rotella
T on sale for $25. $2.50 per quart is pretty reasonable for that oil.
  They also have their own in-house brand called Traveller for $20 for the
same 2.5 gallon can. Decent oil too.
  No financial interest.
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: <fpspitfire at comcast.net>
  To: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
  Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


  > I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race weekend.B
If
  > it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use Rotella-T then switch it
out
  > to VR-1.
  >
  >
  >
  > After the first weekend I switch to Redline.
  >
  >
  >
  > aaron
  >
  >
  >
  > #87 HP Spitfire 1500
  >
  > Southern Illinois Region SCCA
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
  > To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
  > Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
  > Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
  >
  > Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
  > stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
  > use for ZDDP). B I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
  > it should be fine without. B The other recommendations are good to but
  > probably not locally available.
  >
  > I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
  > version of the same. B Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
  > or Royal Purple.
  >
  > Tony Drews
  >
  > At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
  > >My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
  > >but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
  > >what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
  > >neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
  > >internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
  > >wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
  > >were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
  > >love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
  > >it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
  > >
  > >Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
  > >
  > >M
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Sun Apr  4 19:18:20 2010
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 20:18:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <99AE3A55CEEC46AD880C950563CEF88A@rocky>

Everybody's talking brand names, which is fine.

The concept is this -- synthetics are super but are so efficient they do not 
really permit good seating of things like rings, cams, etc. So you use what 
my engine builder calls "mineral oil" (the stuff they pump out of the 
ground) at first. Only takes about one good session -- a race practice, a 
full autocross, etc. Then drain it and put in the synthetic.

When I get a new (rebuilt) engine, I use Valvoline VR1 to start, then go to 
Valvoline Synpower.

Actually, lately I have my engine builder take it to the dyno and tune it 
there, which also works as the break-in. Then the engine delivered to me is 
already broken in and I go straight to the synthetic.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday 
> unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would 
> just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the 
> additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 
> 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with 
> almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily 
> driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Sun Apr  4 19:27:25 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 19:27:25 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Impact's decertification reversed
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>

It seems SFI & Impact Racing (according to Dave Despain on 'WIND TUNNEL' )
have kissed & made up, for the next two years anyway.

Given the source, I suppose the report should be considered credible.

 ( you can relax now Jim... )

Kevin


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr  4 21:23:16 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:23:16 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Impact's decertification reversed
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2889CC1D-DF3E-496B-9BD5-103C0FAF45E7@bnj.com>

That's no too surprising. It never sounded like Impact was making bad stuff,
just that they weren't buying the official SFI labels. In other words, it was
all about money.

On Apr 4, 2010, at 3:27 PM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote:

> It seems SFI & Impact Racing (according to Dave Despain on 'WIND TUNNEL' )
> have kissed & made up, for the next two years anyway.
>
> Given the source, I suppose the report should be considered credible.
>
> ( you can relax now Jim... )
>
> Kevin
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From GRMTim at aol.com  Mon Apr  5 07:09:20 2010
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:09:20 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Small-bore series update
Message-ID: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>

Guys,

Just wanted to update everyone on our small-bore race series... the series 
kicks off this weekend with a welcome party in an around the food pavilion 
at Roebling Road at 5:00 pm Thursday. Everyone involved with the race weekend 
is welcome to this party, not just small-bore entrants.

We have between 20-30 entrants, so this should be an interesting race 
Sunday morning. Unfortunately, after setting this all up, I won't personally be 
able to race this weekend, as our circulation manager is getting married 
Saturday and I will have to leave Friday night. I will be running the TR3 later 
in the season and as an aside, I plan on taking the Group 44 GT6+ to the VTR 
national meet at Jekyll Island in October.

The second small-bore race is at the Mitty the first weekend in May and I 
will post something separately on that event, as it it really shaping up to 
be something special. Hope to see some of you there.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Apr  5 13:06:24 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:06:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1270490402.21482.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF6F695A53.70529120-ON852576FC.0068CAAD-852576FC.0068F4FB@us.ibm.com>

I'm betting it's Red Bull and STP.
Thanks for the clip.

mike H.


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Mon Apr  5 17:40:05 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 23:40:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] FS: i/o port camcorder mount
Message-ID: <1002758761.12022531270510805664.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have an I/O Port camcorder mount that i don't use and figure someone get use out of it. 



all the mounting stuff is there and the requisite secondardy strap for holding the camcorder 



$80 plus shipping 



aaron 


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  5 19:00:33 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 21:00:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Small-bore series update
In-Reply-To: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>
References: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W39F593A63D587E08E87462BA180@phx.gbl>

Well that throw a monkey wrench into the plans :)

Marty

 I plan on taking the Group 44 GT6+ to the VTR
 national meet at Jekyll Island in October.


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Apr  5 20:08:50 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:08:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
	<14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <002a01cad52e$19c5dd50$4d5197f0$@com>

Probably the easiest source of the "rollers" is a donor driveshaft!
Somewhere around here there must be several escaped rollers but I don't know
where to look first.
What is your timeframe and how many do you need?
I am assuming you have the instructions as to how they are assembled
(orientation)?
Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 00:03:40 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 23:03:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <002a01cad52e$19c5dd50$4d5197f0$@com>
Message-ID: <1DB2ACAB57334BFD9B43334283C90762@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

I picked up a "donor" driveshaft today and dropped it off at the shaft shop.
We'll see if it can be fixed or not.


-----Original Message-----
From: Clark W. Nicholls [mailto:cwnfot at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:09 PM
To: 'Norlin Engineering'; FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations


Probably the easiest source of the "rollers" is a donor driveshaft!
Somewhere around here there must be several escaped rollers but I don't know
where to look first. What is your timeframe and how many do you need? I am
assuming you have the instructions as to how they are assembled
(orientation)? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty
GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think."


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 17:49:59 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:49:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
Message-ID: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>

I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
stands ?  thanks   rob


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Apr  6 18:29:54 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 17:29:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <4BBBD202.7050008@greenheart.com>

They seem cool to me.  The basic mechanics of them are the same of a 
pair of iron stands I have owned for years, and they work well.  It sure 
beats some of the older styles where one has to adjust the height with a 
pin, etc.   If I needed a new pair, I'd go for it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

-Justin

Rob wrote:

>I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
>They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
>stands ?  thanks   rob
>
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Apr  6 18:30:48 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 17:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <4BBBD238.2050009@microworks.net>

Well...  Since anything you buy at Harbor Freight will be a hammer in a 
year you probably can't go wrong with those jack stands.  Just don't 
crawl under the car with it sitting on them or you might get hammered.  jk

Rob wrote:
> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
>
> _______________________________________________


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 18:36:05 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 17:36:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>

find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just don't 
want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country 
that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer Bud..Spitfire 
#21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
Subject: [Fot] jack stands


>I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
> these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 19:02:50 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<4BBBD238.2050009@microworks.net>
Message-ID: <BDA360E45D0B40D5ADA18FD3C8317262@Bud>

My point exactly!...Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David W. Riddle" <dave at microworks.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Well...  Since anything you buy at Harbor Freight will be a hammer in a 
> year you probably can't go wrong with those jack stands.  Just don't crawl 
> under the car with it sitting on them or you might get hammered.  jk
>
> Rob wrote:
>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>> stands
>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>> these
>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Apr  6 19:15:33 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 18:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
Message-ID: <4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>

I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.   

Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the 
car to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just 
shy of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.

And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.

In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way 
to the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the 
jackstands, I had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly 
under the front valance.

I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple 
zone behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car 
now ever fixed it?)

On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
provided.  : )


--Justin



RACER BUD wrote:

> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
> Bud..Spitfire #21
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>> stands
>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>> less
>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>> using these
>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Tue Apr  6 19:24:43 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:24:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
Message-ID: <01b901cad5f1$1add0f10$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  My thoughts exactly Bud. Most things from Harbor Freight are Chinese.
Trouble is, it's hard to find things made in the good old USA anymore.
  Sigh!
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
  To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


  > find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just
don't
  > want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country
  > that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer
Bud..Spitfire
  > #21
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
  > To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
  > Subject: [Fot] jack stands
  >
  >
  > >I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack
  > >stands
  > > They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling
less
  > > weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone
using
  > > these
  > > stands ?  thanks   rob
  > >
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > fot at autox.team.net
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe:
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 19:30:58 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:30:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>

We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track Record!...RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
> valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
> ever fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar 
> extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. 
> : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>> stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>> less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>>> these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From niteseeker at mac.com  Tue Apr  6 20:00:39 2010
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:00:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <35F880FB-0042-4F60-A3E1-7DABEB1A5011@mac.com>

They hold up my Spitfire just fine.  Have not used them on any of my heavier vehicles yet.





On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:49 PM, Rob wrote:

> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/niteseeker at mac.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:03:40 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <D741E5A60D21478795F14D5A3DF8D5FA@INSPIRON>

That's funny because I do the same thing with the jack or a stack of 4x4's 
that are laying around. The kicker is most likely there will be no warning
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
> valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
> ever fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar 
> extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. 
> : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>> stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>> less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>>> these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:09:56 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:09:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <E717C4C2AFB44401BF1C3BBB56A37BCB@INSPIRON>

But I think there is more than a few of us using the $70.00 light wght. 
aluminum jack from Harbor I have had mine for about 4 years. i never get 
under it and pay pretty close attention when lifting the car Actually I 
don't i trust it come to think of it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
> safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
> To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
> Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
>> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
>> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
>> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
>> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>>
>> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
>> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under 
>> it.
>>
>> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
>> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
>> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
>> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
>> valance.
>>
>> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
>> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
>> ever fixed it?)
>>
>> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
>> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
>> similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
>> provided. : )
>>
>>
>> --Justin
>>
>>
>>
>> RACER BUD wrote:
>>
>>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>>
>>>
>>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>>> stands
>>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>>> less
>>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>>>> using these
>>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Tue Apr  6 20:17:40 2010
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:17:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in the
late sixties and early seventies?
-Ed-

--- On Tue, 4/6/10, RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net> wrote:


From: RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 8:30 PM


We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common
safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track Record!...RB
----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and
odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car to
support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy of the
frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little
hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... at
16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to the
ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I had
accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front
valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone
behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now ever
fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was damaged
and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar extra
cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just don't
want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country that
we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack
stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using
these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net


From adams910 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  6 20:31:28 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:31:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from Salem
Massachusetts would ya'? ....

Rob,

We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. Look
around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the place. This is
a fact.

As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like there
is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than anything that ever
came out of Britain during the '60's

Bob


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Apr  6 20:33:29 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:33:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <4BBBEEF9.7040508@microworks.net>

You got that right.

Crash test of Chinese made 4 door Sedan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHZqcKj7jNM

Crash test of a Smart car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz-s1sIoLhU

RACER BUD wrote:
> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's 
> common safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" 
> <jmwagner at greenheart.com>


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue Apr  6 20:37:04 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON><8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud><4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <B1EAF0980E704BBFAFE5EE1F6E0FA755@latitudefb1e41>

The little notches on aluminum jack stands scare me. Aluminum fractures much 
more readily than steel.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
> safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
> To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
> Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
>> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
>> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
>> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
>> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>>
>> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
>> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under 
>> it.
>>
>> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
>> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
>> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
>> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
>> valance.
>>
>> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
>> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
>> ever fixed it?)
>>
>> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
>> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
>> similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
>> provided. : )
>>
>>
>> --Justin
>>
>>
>>
>> RACER BUD wrote:
>>
>>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>>
>>>
>>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>>> stands
>>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>>> less
>>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>>>> using these
>>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From bluebit at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:37:45 2010
From: bluebit at comcast.net (Jim%20Roelofs)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 02:37:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <1161576851.7620821270607684824.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He
is survived by his beloved wife Janine.



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire,
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more.



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed.

Jim Roelofs
303-862-9371 (h)
303-629-3545 (w)
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred)


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:47:05 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:47:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Jack Stands...
Message-ID: <C2710612FC6E4A7881701D84136B7DC9@Bud>

I guess weve been dumbed down.!
RB


From niteseeker at mac.com  Tue Apr  6 21:02:29 2010
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 22:02:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>

On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:

> Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in the
> late sixties and early seventies?
> -Ed-


Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor Freight tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and had to rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly different.   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping in at a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US for close to the same cost.  


From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr  6 22:03:22 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 00:03:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
Message-ID: <y2kd9f7bd331004062103w463a16b5se393c517749924ac@mail.gmail.com>

Most of the time I'm pretty happy ignoring the US/China tool argument,
buying the cheap tools when I need something disposable or loosable or I'm
just feeling cheap.

I have a few sets of jack stands, all made in china, all steel. For my light
cars, alum. stands are certainly going to hold up. I wouldn't use them under
my truck though...

The one that annoys me most is once having a source for real Milton air line
couplers. The cheap ones just don't fit, and when they do, they leak. And I
don't have a local source for Milton anymore.

Just today's rant.
Bob

"Life sucks and then you die. Then death sucks. This repeats itself until
you reach Nirvana, the ultimate bummer" - MK after one too many beers and
valium.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 11:02 PM, dick ross <niteseeker at mac.com> wrote:

> On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
>
> > Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in
> the
> > late sixties and early seventies?
> > -Ed-
>
>
> Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor Freight
> tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
> But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and had to
> rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly different.
>   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping in at
> a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US for
> close to the same cost.
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  7 05:14:05 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:14:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
	<y2kd9f7bd331004062103w463a16b5se393c517749924ac@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01e901cad643$702a1740$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  It's harder to ignore when Channellock is 15 miles down the road in
Meadville, PA, and friends work there. Or Reed Mfg in Erie (they make vises,
tools , and equipment for plumbing and oil field use) where the wife of the
CEO/owner is a physician friend of mine.
  I hate to say it, but imports from India and Poland are fairly good
quality.
  I guess we have to go with the flow.
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
  To: "dick ross" <niteseeker at mac.com>
  Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 12:03 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


  > Most of the time I'm pretty happy ignoring the US/China tool argument,
  > buying the cheap tools when I need something disposable or loosable or
I'm
  > just feeling cheap.
  >
  > I have a few sets of jack stands, all made in china, all steel. For my
light
  > cars, alum. stands are certainly going to hold up. I wouldn't use them
under
  > my truck though...
  >
  > The one that annoys me most is once having a source for real Milton air
line
  > couplers. The cheap ones just don't fit, and when they do, they leak.
And I
  > don't have a local source for Milton anymore.
  >
  > Just today's rant.
  > Bob
  >
  > "Life sucks and then you die. Then death sucks. This repeats itself
until
  > you reach Nirvana, the ultimate bummer" - MK after one too many beers
and
  > valium.
  >
  > On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 11:02 PM, dick ross <niteseeker at mac.com> wrote:
  >
  > > On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
  > >
  > > > Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff
in
  > > the
  > > > late sixties and early seventies?
  > > > -Ed-
  > >
  > >
  > > Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor
Freight
  > > tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
  > > But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and
had to
  > > rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly
different.
  > >   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping
in at
  > > a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US
for
  > > close to the same cost.
  > >
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > fot at autox.team.net
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  7 05:21:34 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:21:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] wedge
Message-ID: <01f801cad644$7b9ce340$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi, anyone interested in a '76 TR7?
A friend of mine has it and it is for sale. It seems to be in fairly decent
shape. It hasn't been driven in about a year. It's up on Chinese jackstands
for now. (Come on, a little humor never hurt.)
The car is for sale. It's a 5 speed with about 75K on the clock and can be had
for a reasonable price.
Give me a shout if you have an interest.
Bill


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  7 07:25:07 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:25:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON><8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud><4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com><AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
	<z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON>

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys 
"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the 
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and 
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store, 
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from Salem
> Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. Look
> around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the place. This 
> is
> a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there
> is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than anything that 
> ever
> came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net


From jameselbe at aol.com  Wed Apr  7 09:27:34 2010
From: jameselbe at aol.com (JAMESELBE)
Date: Wed,  7 Apr 2010 09:27:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <b968e12c.242a.45bd.ab2d.1563e00810c0@aol.com>

It was also fun seeing Ray and Janine following each other around the track in the TR4 and Spitfire at RMVR events. They will be missed. 
                       JIm TR4 #223



In a message dated 04/06/10 21:18:10 Mountain Daylight Time, bluebit at comcast.net writes:
It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He 
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He 
is survived by his beloved wife Janine. 



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain 
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire, 
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more. 



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed. 

Jim Roelofs 
303-862-9371 (h) 
303-629-3545 (w) 
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred) 

_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jameselbe at aol.com 


From jameselbe at aol.com  Wed Apr  7 09:59:06 2010
From: jameselbe at aol.com (JAMESELBE)
Date: Wed,  7 Apr 2010 09:59:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ec5b20ed.026b.4e19.89f7.7fe8e6e64569@aol.com>

It was also fun having Ray and Janine following each other around the track in the TR4 and Spitfire at RMVR events. He will be missed.
        Jim TR4 #223



In a message dated 04/06/10 21:18:10 Mountain Daylight Time, bluebit at comcast.net writes:
It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He 
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He 
is survived by his beloved wife Janine. 



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain 
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire, 
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more. 



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed. 

Jim Roelofs 
303-862-9371 (h) 
303-629-3545 (w) 
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred) 

_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jameselbe at aol.com 


From cofrog at q.com  Wed Apr  7 11:24:15 2010
From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:24:15 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1161576851.7620821270607684824.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT140-w63E6CF77C33878AD6E1882D4170@phx.gbl>

I'm sorry to hear this.  Never really knew Ray but remember seeing him and his
wife following each other at several Pueblo Enduros.



Dan Forgey

> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 02:37:45 +0000
> From: bluebit at comcast.net
> To: stlnyc at msn.com; klynch_6 at msn.com; toodamnfunky at comcast.net;
jroelofs at gmail.com
> CC: rayj at wispertel.net; treasurer at rmvr.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
>
> It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He
> died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado.
He
> is survived by his beloved wife Janine.
>
>
>
> Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky
Mountain
> Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track
spitfire,
> GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B and more.
>
>
>
> A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed.
>
> Jim Roelofs
> 303-862-9371 (h)
> 303-629-3545 (w)
> bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred)
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com


From walt at hot-tr6.com  Wed Apr  7 12:38:09 2010
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 -0600
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From jeff_durant at comcast.net  Wed Apr  7 13:20:38 2010
From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (jeff_durant at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 19:20:38 +0000
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My wife insists she does the pedal pushing!  Fine by me as long as she doesn't complain when I spend $ on engine parts!
Jeff Durant
#12 TR6 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Walter Hollowell" <walt at hot-tr6.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 
To: 'Rob'<19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; 'Bob Adams'<adams910 at gmail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr  7 17:15:05 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>

Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
of a brake bleed job.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jeff_durant at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 12:21 PM
To: Walter Hollowell; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; 'Rob'; 'Bob Adams';
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife insists she does the pedal pushing!  Fine by me as long as she
doesn't complain when I spend $ on engine parts!
Jeff Durant
#12 TR6 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Walter Hollowell" <walt at hot-tr6.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 
To: 'Rob'<19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; 'Bob Adams'<adams910 at gmail.com>;
<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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From billb at bnj.com  Wed Apr  7 18:07:24 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:07:24 -1000
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
Message-ID: <820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>

Sheesh. Haven't you guys heard of speedbleeders? As soon as I tried a set my
wife told me she was never bleeding a brake again--on either end.

On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:

> Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
> of a brake bleed job.
>
> Jack


From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr  7 22:59:50 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:59:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
	<820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <F14BE2134DA246D9B0ACDC9C154F8E9E@hpa1477c>

Hey, with two kids in the house, bleeding our five cars was some of our
quality "alone" time.  <Grin>
 
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:07 PM
To: Jack Brooks
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Sheesh. Haven't you guys heard of speedbleeders? As soon as I tried a set my
wife told me she was never bleeding a brake again--on either end. 

On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:

> Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
> of a brake bleed job.
> 
> Jack


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Thu Apr  8 07:45:44 2010
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:45:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Morning FOTer's,

As always posting because I need help, having owned a Spit and a TR6
back in the "day" I sold my Shelby race car and started racing a Spit,
love it but I am sort of out of it as compared to the Ford parts and
where to get what and what fits what and such. So back to my problem,
going like a mad man with NDA shipments and such to get ready to
reinstall my originally incorrectly made Summer Brothers axles and while
doing that I was going to upgrade to GT6 rear drums. As you know the
only way to get the backing plates changed is to ruin a bearing locking
ring, maybe ruin a bearing and have to totally take out both axles, hubs
etc etc. Anyway got all my parts in painted prepped and waiting on
Summer Brothers to send my now hopefully correctly re done  axles back
NDA yesterday. Got'em in left the office and went home to put it all
together and planned leave this AM for VIR and the VDCA race. All my
buddies left Wed and I was to catch up. Well I get the 7/16" race wheel
studs pressed in and spot welded in place and I am ready to drop on the
4 bolt flange with the axle seal followed by the brake backing plates
and guess what, the bolt pattern on the backing plates I was sent is off
by at least 1/2" !!!!!  Turns out they are Rotoflex backing plates and
not the ones that match the Spitfire 4 bolt pattern. So I spend a couple
of hours calling everyone I know (especially west coast places as I need
them NDA today) and no one has/will take the time/or whatever) to see if
they have any. So VIR and the VCDA is out. But I still need the right
backing plates.

So does anyone have any they would sell to me?  They backing plates have
a 2.0" center hole, the smaller Spit bolt pattern around  2 3/8" center
to center measurement and are for the 8" x 1.5" shoe size.  They have
the same wheel cylinder as a Spit and also the same manual brake
adjuster set up. By the way the GT6 parts car I have has 8" x 1.5" drum
brakes if anyone needs them, they are "supposedly" rare???  Price can be
REALLY right as I need to re coup all the NDA charges I spent on nothing
now that VIR is out!!!!

Thanks from Brakeless in Tennessee!!  Hoping the "List" can help!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From KENMUN at aol.com  Thu Apr  8 12:59:25 2010
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 14:59:25 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr3 pistons/cam
Message-ID: <64c41.3eab9fd5.38ef818d@aol.com>

anyone have a good set of 87mm pistons and a performance cam (something  
like a isky 666) that they would like to sell? thanks, ken m. tr3 vintage  
racer


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Apr  8 13:38:50 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:38:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website
Message-ID: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>

Pretty fancy stuff Ted

 

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/TSIPictures.html

 

Looks great


From gasket.works at gte.net  Thu Apr  8 14:13:23 2010
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:13:23 +0000
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
Message-ID: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in the fot site.  

Questions

1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it something worth exploring at all?


If so, ...

2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue please let me know.  

Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy.... event food or some such.

Mordy


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Apr  8 15:11:33 2010
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <EAF83662-712E-4A91-8F31-634D733BF49B@comcast.net>

Well, that was effective negative motivation!  I enjoy the FOT stuff  
every day, have solved countless issues here from good advice, sourced  
parts, etc.  I sure don't want to look at more advertising in my day,  
so I just made my first donation with paypal - took 90 seconds.  Well  
worth it to keep advertising off the space!  Remind us once in a while  
what a good thing we have going we'll keep sending money.
Just think, everybody, what you would pay a mechanic if you could even  
find these answers anywhere else.  It's a bargain!

On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:13 PM, gasket.works at gte.net wrote:

I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space  
in the fot site.

Questions

1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it  
something worth exploring at all?


If so, ...

2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue  
please let me know.

Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want  
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask  
you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas  
trophy.... event food or some such.

Mordy


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net


From pcdelux at verizon.net  Thu Apr  8 15:14:43 2010
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (Bill DeWar)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>

Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.

Bill DeWar
----- Original Message -----
From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net


From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Apr  8 16:23:58 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:23:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <C59782C9E5314F87BCADF639928F4FB1@joepentiumnew>

Since Mark has nothing to do with the FOT site, his opinion is pretty
meaningless.  I think that if it brings in revenue to support the FOT
activities and is not too overwhelming, it is probably a good thing.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill DeWar
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:15 PM
To: gasket.works at gte.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot

Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.

Bill DeWar
----- Original Message -----
From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr  8 16:47:19 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:47:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <9A15ED20BDCD4B5191D797FD9CA020A8@userb38463fba5>

I think he is referring to the FOT web site and not the e-mail list.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill DeWar" <pcdelux at verizon.net>
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
>
> Bill DeWar
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
> Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
>
>
>> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
> the fot site.
>>
>> Questions
>>
>> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
> something worth exploring at all?
>>
>>
>> If so, ...
>>
>> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
> please let me know.
>>
>> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
> interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
> Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
> event food or some such.
>>
>> Mordy
>>
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  8 17:50:37 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:50:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>

Bill DeWar wrote:
> Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
>
>   

There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.

The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to generate
a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races, 
etc.  Ads
there would be more like the ads on, for example, 
http://www.team.net/archive
where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them, 
and there
is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.

For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and 
generate
a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
in the line about from all parts of the world.

And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
in one place.

But that is a different discussion.

mjb.


From GRMTim at aol.com  Mon Apr  5 07:12:38 2010
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:12:38 EDT
Subject: [Fot] latest on the Classic Motorsports Mitty
Message-ID: <1f6bd.47ec7f25.38eb3bc6@aol.com>

Sorry to barge the list, but thought some would want the latest news on the 
Mitty. if you are coming, please make it a point to drop by our big tent on 
the hill and say hi. Thanks.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723
The MITTY Returns to Road Atlanta
to Celebrate its 34th Year

B B B B  The oldest historic car race on the East Coast returns to Road 
Atlanta, April 29-May 2 with the Classic Motorsports MITTY presented by Mazda.
B B B B  Legendary auto figure Peter Brock is the Grand Marshal of this yearbs 
34th annual festivities that will feature 28 races over three days featuring 
a lineup of more than 250 historic cars, offering something for every 
racing fan.
B B B B  Brock is a noted designer, builder and racer having stamped his legend 
by designing the World Championship Shelby Daytona Cobra and giving Datsun 
its first C Production National and Trans-Am 2.5 championships with his BRE 
stable of winning cars. He will be honored at a special dinner Thursday 
night at the track.
B B B B  bIbm greatly honored to be the grand marshal of the Mitty,b Brock 
said. bThis is the premier event of its kind. To have the history of BRE 
recognized is a great tribute and truly a walk down memory lane. Ibm looking 
forward to meeting with my old crew, the fans and seeing some old friends.b
B B B B  Brock has a long and storied history of excellence in the automotive 
industry. He began his career as a designer for General Motors where he 
penned the original Stingray concept. Later, Brock moved to the West Coast to 
work for Carroll Shelby, starting his School of High Performance Driving, which 
ultimately led to designing the Cobra Daytona Coupe. The still-young Brock 
continued his meteoric rise by creating Brock Racing Enterprises at the end 
of 1965. His team of BRE Datsun race cars quickly began winning trophies and 
championships across the country, proving to critics that these early 
Japanese imports could compete with the world. The BRE Datsuns won four national 
championships and had an unmistakable livery that is among the most 
recognizable in all of racing. Many fans, in fact, created BRE btributeb cars 
replicating the famous livery. On Saturday Brock will judge the best btributeb 
cars.
B B B B B  bHistoric Sportscar Racing has been bringing fans fantastic racing 
featuring some the great names in racing for two decades,b said Ken Fengler, 
HSR Vice President of Race Operations. bThis yearbs Mitty promises to offer 
fans some of the best racing ever among a broad variety of 
championship-winning cars and drivers.b
Lotus will be a featured marque with a 20-lap Formula 5000 race at noon 
Sunday, May 2. Tony Adamowicz, the 1969 F5000 champion, will be among the 
competitors in his Eagle Mk5. In addition, spectators will be given free track 
laps in the all-new Lotus Evora during the weekend.
B B B B  Porsche will be in the spotlight with the Klub Sport Challenge which 
enters its 14th year of competition for all Porsches from the 1950s, 60s and 
70s for 2.0-liter and 2.5-liter Porsche 911s, 914s, 356s and CP models. 
Additionally, the Cayman Interseries features 2009-2010 Caymans painted in 
historic racing paint schemes.
B B B B Mazda fans will enjoy the SCCA Pro Racing Playboy Mazda MX-5 Cup, the 
only professional event of the weekend, which will be run Saturday afternoon.
B B B B B  In addition there will be seven other classes of racing including 
Vintage Production, Historic Production, Open Wheel, Historic GTP/Group 
C/WSC/DP, Championship of Makes, Historic Stock Cars and IMSA Historic GT.B 
B B B B B A vintage event for motorcycles will be held for nostalgic two-wheel 
marquees such as Norton, Triumph, Vincent and Matchless. They will race both 
Saturday and Sunday.
B B B B  Several non-racing activities will appeal to fans as well at the 
infield 2010 Speedfest. The Factory Five/Cobra Corral will be center stage of the 
infield vendor alley with car displays and vendor booths. More than 20 car 
clubs, including Jaguar, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Cobra, Lotus and Fiat-Lancia, 
also will be on display in the infield. The Mazda ownerbs party Friday night 
is open to all Mazda owners who can attend by showing their car keys. The 
Saturday Night Party, sponsored by Moss Motors, will offer live entertainment 
with music by Wes Cobb.
B B B  An added bonus for fans will be the Concours dbLeMons, which puts a 
bitter twist on traditional Concours events by celebrating unloved and 
underappreciated classics, automotive oddities and cars whose owners arenbt afraid 
of a little self-deprecation. Judges will present several awards for cars 
that are especially foul, such as bMost Dangerous,b bWorst in Show,b and the b
Biggest Loserb for the car with the greatest level of value depreciation.
B B B B  Among the top drivers competing in this yearbs MITTY will be George 
Robinson, Bill Adam, Butch Leitzinger and Travis Engen, all winners at the HSR 
season-opener in Sebring, Fla., as well as Elliott Forbes-Robinson, Jack 
Baldwin and Chip Robinson, to name a few.B 
B B B B B  bThe variety of race cars competing includes everything from 
1950s-era production models and sports cars to former IMSA and Trans-Am racers, 
NASCAR stock cars and current production Porsches. Many of the 250 entrants will 
sport vintage livery from the past that fans will readily recognize,b 
Fengler added.
B B B B  The Mitty is the second of eight races on the HSR 2010 schedule. For 
more information, go to www.themitty.com or www.hsrrace.com.
# # #
04.01.2010
For more information, contact:
Barbara J. Burns, BurnsGroup Unlimited
404.873.0772 phone or 770.329.7134 cell
burnsgroup at aol.com
B 


From STEVEN.SMITH2 at GAPAC.com  Thu Apr  8 16:02:20 2010
From: STEVEN.SMITH2 at GAPAC.com (Smith, Steven L.)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:02:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT website
Message-ID: <2F3F877588CE9B44887C45F00826F8E4191A12ECBD@msggbyb.corpmsg.com>

I'm confident that Mordy is talking about FOT-Racing.com.

And to my way of thinking if the owner of the site doesn't want the
advertising then it's a no-go.

Excellent of Mr Dunst to solicit our opinions but he's paying for the site.
I'll fully support the decision either way...

Steve


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Thu Apr  8 20:11:53 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:11:53 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
Message-ID: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump housing and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the Chicoms.....................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr  8 20:12:02 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:12:02 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot Advertising.....THE FOT
 TILL...and Heartland Park
In-Reply-To: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <8CCA5A12D8C5E3A-13D8-BD8C@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

FOT,

Advertising would be too much responsibility. We might have to make a 'rule',
if we do.

We still have about $1,000 in the FOT till although we have not done any fund
raising for a few years.

We have avoided any cash needs with some event negotiating and Bill Babcock
didnt ask for anything at Portland  .

Not much will be needed for Heartand Park, thanks to HVR and O'Reilly Auto
Parts.

We have enough Kastner Cups for a few years...maybe three.

Heartland Park.....dont hesitate to register early for HP. And, if you have
any used parts or have any kind of commercial interest, rent a 10 x 20 space
for $100. There will be a large Club Presence and Midwest Spectators hungry
for an event of this size in their backyard.

Joe A











-----Original Message-----
From: gasket.works at gte.net
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 3:13 pm
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in the
fot
ite.
Questions
1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it something
orth exploring at all?

f so, ...
2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue please
let
e know.
Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want interlopers.
ut, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.  Perhaps, funds
albeit
mall could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy.... event food or some such.
Mordy

ent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
_______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr  8 21:06:11 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:06:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>

I'm glad you got out of the way!  It would not be good to try to get a  
hand or foot under it as it fell.

~Steve


On Apr 8, 2010, at 7:11 PM, <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece  
of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump  
housing and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the  
Chicoms.....................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr  8 21:11:43 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website
In-Reply-To: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <8CCA5A983E4E68B-13D8-C583@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

Cool stuff Ted!

A Memory Lane Cruise....thanks for sharing this on your website.

My dad was was farm implement dealer for 30 years from 1945 to 1975. ALEXANDER
IMPLEMENT COMPANY

Stored Tractor Tires were really easy to climb into in those formative years.

Climbing steel wheels with the old steel lugs was a challenge.

Later, I got all of the really dirty jobs...steam cleaning, painting,
decarbonising, torching old equipment for scrap.

It got better with equipment set-up and valve jobs, but I learned the word
MATRICULATE and headed for college.

The business lived on for a second 30 years under another name, then sold and
bulldozed in the name of progress.

There's no going back home to Osage, Iowa, now.  People there have not a clue
about British Sports Cars.

Great golf course, but I cant seem find time to play golf.....4800' of
concrete runway, but no airplane.....

Joe A.











-----Original Message-----
From: Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>
To: Fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Tr8 List <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 2:38 pm
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website


Pretty fancy stuff Ted

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/TSIPictures.html

Looks great
_______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Thu Apr  8 21:30:17 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:30:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] HD Theatre
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS20CAF56D9FD381D354CFAFB7150@phx.gbl>

Interesting feature about race track design on 'Mega World' this evening.
(Comcast ch. 663 here)

Kevin


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Thu Apr  8 21:45:09 2010
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:45:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot Advertising.....THE FOT
 TILL...and Heartland Park
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<8CCA5A12D8C5E3A-13D8-BD8C@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001501cad797$0dd5a820$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

I have heard enough sense to agree with my original gut feelings.

Hence, No comercial advert space on the FOT site.

Mordy


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  8 22:07:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:07:07 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
	<46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4BBEA7EB.3040209@bradakis.com>

Steven Belfer wrote:
> I'm glad you got out of the way!  It would not be good to try to get a 
> hand or foot under it as it fell.
>
Really.  One can certainly get hurt.  An old Logan 400 Hobbyist lathe 
probably
weighs less than an engine block, but I can still imagine that if one 
were to have
some sort of incident while loading it into the back of a Honda CRV 
there might
be some discoloration and bruising that takes almost a week to heal, 
perhaps a few
nearly healed over scratches in the skin by now.

One needs to be cautious when single-handedly trying to do the work of 
three men:
Larry, Moe and Curly.


mjb.


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Apr  9 00:00:52 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:00:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  jack stands]
Message-ID: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>

Here's a couple options....

USA made...  $179.99
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=72519&group_ID=1725

Chinese? made....   $39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

You could buy American or buy the $40 Chinese jacks and then spend 
$130.00 on a vacation within the USA with your family.   Of course, if 
you're concerned that a car falling on you due to inferior goods is 
going to spoil the vacation, I understand.

--Justin


From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Apr  9 07:22:02 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:22:02 EDT
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
Message-ID: <9372e.372db40c.38f083fa@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2010 6:22:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:


> I think he is referring to the FOT web site and not the e-mail list.
> 

I sure HOPE so, or we'll be SOL.

Bill (Damdinger)


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Fri Apr  9 10:15:33 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<EAF83662-712E-4A91-8F31-634D733BF49B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2BCFF416A0F64D18A1A7C25DA4DD0D63@Charly>

I also have made a donation to keep the ads off the FoT site.
Thanks,
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen at comcast.net>
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Well, that was effective negative motivation!  I enjoy the FOT stuff
> every day, have solved countless issues here from good advice, sourced
> parts, etc.  I sure don't want to look at more advertising in my day,
> so I just made my first donation with paypal - took 90 seconds.  Well
> worth it to keep advertising off the space!  Remind us once in a while
> what a good thing we have going we'll keep sending money.
> Just think, everybody, what you would pay a mechanic if you could even
> find these answers anywhere else.  It's a bargain!
>
> On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:13 PM, gasket.works at gte.net wrote:
>
> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space
> in the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
> something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
> please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
> interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask
> you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas
> trophy.... event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Apr  9 10:36:44 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:36:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  jack stands]
In-Reply-To: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>
References: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <000401cad802$d8407e80$88c17b80$@com>

Take a look at Griot's Garage for another option.

No Commercial Interest

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Justin Wagner
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:01 AM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re: jack stands]

Here's a couple options....

USA made...  $179.99
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=72519&group_ID=1725

Chinese? made....   $39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

You could buy American or buy the $40 Chinese jacks and then spend 
$130.00 on a vacation within the USA with your family.   Of course, if 
you're concerned that a car falling on you due to inferior goods is 
going to spoil the vacation, I understand.

--Justin
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Apr  9 10:38:21 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:38:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>

What broke on the engine stand, the bolts holding the engine or the frame of
the stand itself?  I've had the same concerns.  I use good (hopefully!) Gr.
8 bolts to hold the engine to the stand.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:12 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump housing
and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the Chicoms.....................Cheers
Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Apr  9 12:25:51 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
	<000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004091422190.6826@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Tim Murphy wrote:

> What broke on the engine stand, the bolts holding the engine or the frame of
> the stand itself?  I've had the same concerns.  I use good (hopefully!) Gr.
> 8 bolts to hold the engine to the stand.

I didn't read the initial post as "the engine stand broke". I read it was 
"I was rolling an object with 400 pounds stationed such that the roll 
center was 24 inches off the ground when the wheels hit some dust on the 
floor and the stand tipped over".

Experience teaches us to be wary of heavy objects with a high center of 
gravity.

> Tim

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From pcdelux at verizon.net  Fri Apr  9 14:24:23 2010
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (Bill DeWar)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 16:24:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
	<4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>

Sorry I thought Mark B was involved in the web-site also. My bad. I still
think Mark's opinion might matter though.

Bill D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Bill DeWar wrote:
> > Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
> >
> >
>
> There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
> web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
> email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
> as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
> donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.
>
> The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to
generate
> a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
> Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races,
> etc.  Ads
> there would be more like the ads on, for example,
> http://www.team.net/archive
> where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them,
> and there
> is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.
>
> For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
> start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
> Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
> discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and
> generate
> a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
> for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
> in the line about from all parts of the world.
>
> And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
> Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
> in one place.
>
> But that is a different discussion.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr  9 15:15:03 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 17:15:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17><4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>
	<004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <8CCA640DAE0853C-1AE0-15166@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>

Dr. Dunst is our website benefactor and Henry Frye is our webmaster....almost
official positions, if we had any 'positions'.

Mark Bradakis made the FOT  possible and he will be one of our Honored Guests
at Heartland Park.

Joe A










-----Original Message-----
From: Bill DeWar <pcdelux at verizon.net>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 3:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


Sorry I thought Mark B was involved in the web-site also. My bad. I still
hink Mark's opinion might matter though.
Bill D
---- Original Message -----
rom: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
o: <fot at autox.team.net>
ent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:50 PM
ubject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot

 Bill DeWar wrote:
 > Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
 >
 >

 There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
 web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
 email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
 as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
 donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.

 The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to
enerate
 a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
 Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races,
 etc.  Ads
 there would be more like the ads on, for example,
 http://www.team.net/archive
 where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them,
 and there
 is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.

 For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
 start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
 Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
 discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and
 generate
 a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
 for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
 in the line about from all parts of the world.

 And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
 Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
 in one place.

 But that is a different discussion.

 mjb.
 _______________________________________________
 fot at autox.team.net

 http://www.fot-racing.com

 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr  9 19:16:33 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:16:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2011 and dont forget about 2012...the big one.
Message-ID: <8CCA66297B58BAE-1314-17148@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>

FOT.....

It is not too early to consider the Kastner Cup location for 2011.

Back 'west' unless there is a compelling reason otherwise...subject to Kas'
approval.

We need ideas and volunteer to spearhead. Step up. Please.

Heartland Park will be a good place to discuss.

We need input from everyone on this list, no matter how bizarre. When it all
gets boiled out to it's essence eventually and begins to make sense.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------

2012 will be the 60th year of Triumph in Competition........I hope we get
proposals from VSCDA, SVRA, VDCA, etc. This, of course will be a big one with
a potential for a big gate. As it should be. Or not? The BRITS are already
planning their return. We need to be ready for them.

Joe A


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Apr 10 05:04:32 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:04:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
Message-ID: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>

A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.

In no particular order:

Don Marshall - TR4
George Wright - TR4
Susan Kahler - Spitfire
Henry Frye - TR4
Rob Deanes - TR4
Dean Tetterton - TR3
Leo Oddi - TR250
Mark Wheatley - TR4
Dennis Delap - TR4
Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
Tony Drews - TR4
Bob Wismer - TR4

There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
TRack.

Irv Korey


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Apr 10 05:56:23 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] The Gathering
Message-ID: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net>

Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car 
show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be 
set up with a parts display.  Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension 
stuff and more.  If you are attending and need any of our products 
brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as 
soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items 
such as engines, transmissions, etc.   Thanks. See you there. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 10 05:56:58 2010
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
In-Reply-To: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cad8a4$ec641aa0$c52c4fe0$@rr.com>

Hard to think of racing with the temps here are back down into the upper 20s
and snow covering vehicles and the roof of most buildings. That and it was
80 just two days ago. Sounds like a great turnout of Triumphs. Anyone think
to notify the EPA??

Regards to all.
Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:05 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway

A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.

In no particular order:

Don Marshall - TR4
George Wright - TR4
Susan Kahler - Spitfire
Henry Frye - TR4
Rob Deanes - TR4
Dean Tetterton - TR3
Leo Oddi - TR250
Mark Wheatley - TR4
Dennis Delap - TR4
Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
Tony Drews - TR4
Bob Wismer - TR4

There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
TRack.

Irv Korey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Apr 10 11:35:09 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:35:09 EDT
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
Message-ID: <f303.3dd8de3b.38f210cd@cs.com>

Aaaargh!  I am doing yard work.....best of luck to everyone.

Stay safe!

Joe A

> A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
> paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
> VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
> together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
> have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
> expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
> spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
> the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and 
> flowing.
> 
> In no particular order:
> 
> Don Marshall - TR4
> George Wright - TR4
> Susan Kahler - Spitfire
> Henry Frye - TR4
> Rob Deanes - TR4
> Dean Tetterton - TR3
> Leo Oddi - TR250
> Mark Wheatley - TR4
> Dennis Delap - TR4
> Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
> Tony Drews - TR4
> Bob Wismer - TR4
> 
> There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
> and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
> TRack.
> 
> Irv Korey
> 

</HTML>


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Apr 10 14:55:01 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 16:55:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
In-Reply-To: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BC0E5A5.2090900@blacksburg.net>

On 4/10/2010 7:04 AM, Irv Korey wrote:
> A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
> paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
> VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
> together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
> have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
> expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
> spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
> the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.
>    
I'm just sick!  I only live 2 hours from VIR.  If I'd known the FoT was 
gathering there, I'd have gone.  Damn!  Well, y'all have fun and be safe.

Next time there are FoTers at VIR, lemme know if you need a helper.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Sat Apr 10 17:57:54 2010
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:57:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Amazing Happening at VIR!
Message-ID: <51E8336C-FC33-4A69-ABCC-2B1851823BE6@141.com>

After another day of racing, I am extremely proud to report that of  
the thirteen Triumphs that showed up to race, exactly THIRTEEN  
Triumphs completed the day and are ready to race again tomorrow!!! I  
believe this is a first in the history of the FOT!

It was another amazingly gorgeous day at the track, marred only by a  
few small incidents. Wish you were here!

Keep Triumphing!

Susan     :)

Sent from my iPhone


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Apr 10 21:25:32 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:25:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 2
Message-ID: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, a spectacular weather day was complimented by spectacular racing. The
weather was absolutely perfect. And the TRiumphs here liked it too. As Susan
mentioned, after 3 track sessions, all 13 TRiumphs are running well. There
were a few issues today, but they were all overcome. 10 of the TRiumphs ran
in the same group (the Spitfires are in another group, and Randy Williams
ran his Jaguar instead of the TR3) , and there were several great battles
throughout the feature race.

Memo to Russ Moore - the EPA did not need to be notified as very little
marking of territory was going on, with 1 notable exception.

;-)

Memo to J C Hassell. This is not an "official" FOT event. However, the FOT
guys that have run this event before love it, and plan to keep on coming
back. You should monitor the VDCA website, and mark your calendar
accordingly.

More good times are expected tomorrow.

Irv Korey


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 11 11:39:21 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:39:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] 19 years
Message-ID: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>

Team.Net became a registered domain on April 11th, 1991.
And it was just five years later, in '96, when the FOT list
was set up.  Some of us have been around a while!

mjb.


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 11 12:16:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:16:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] 19 years
In-Reply-To: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>
References: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <400BAC83-D98F-47E6-9B7F-198FAA3D2E33@bnj.com>

I bet you wish you'd registered Team.com and perhaps a few others. Even now in
a devalued URL world I suspect Team.com would be worth a hundred K. As far as
that goes, you might look into the value of team.net. Not that big a deal
switching domain names, the only people who care what a URL is these days are
marketers.

I think I registered bnj.com in 1993. Could have had bj.com but chose not to.
I used to have a lot of three and four letter URLs, but I let most of them
lapse. Silly, that. Hard to believe that I started my company 18 years ago,
and here I am still just a kid.


On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:39 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Team.Net became a registered domain on April 11th, 1991.
> And it was just five years later, in '96, when the FOT list
> was set up.  Some of us have been around a while!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 11 18:00:51 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:00:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-6 Crown Wheel
Message-ID: <049ECDD3B6CC4F14B6505FBB530EDC40@INSPIRON>

Does anyone have a 3.45 Crown wheel and gear they would like to sell  thanks
rob


From adams910 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 11 19:05:52 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:05:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 2
In-Reply-To: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>
References: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <z2j673993c51004111805n245d9bc7p820fef59e4d84c0@mail.gmail.com>

Results are posted on mylaps
http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=517984

Bob


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Apr 11 22:12:06 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 23:12:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
Message-ID: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>

We had another beautiful day for motor racing. Cloudless skies, low
humidity, high temp was around 80. After having 7 TRack sessions during the
previous 2 days, VDCA offered 3 more today, including an enduro. There was
some great racing in both the enduro and the feature race. However, a few of
the cars developed issues during the course of the day. Many of the issues
were overcome, and all the TR's that were expected to take the green in the
feature were there. And all finished except for 1. Both Spitfires ran the
enduro, but neither made the feature, as 1 had issues and the other had to
leave early enough to get home tonight, Monday is a work day. At the end of
the enduro, we were able to get 12 of the 13 cars in attendance together for
a group photo.

This was the first time that I was able to attend a VDCA event, and from my
vantage point, it was really top notch. As stated, there was a ton of track
time, I'm told the entry fee is very reasonable, and VIR is a first class
facility. There was a dinner Saturday night, the food was yummy and
plentiful, and the program took all of about 5-10 minutes. The TRiumph
ghetto is not to be missed. I'll be back next year.

Irv Korey


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Apr 12 09:28:48 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
Message-ID: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>

This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice write
up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.

http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm

Mike Harmuth


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Mon Apr 12 10:25:30 2010
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (spitfiresuz at 141.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:25:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
Message-ID: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Apr 12 11:00:15 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:00:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004121259040.22847@isis.mit.edu>

Second and Second

Welcome.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon Apr 12 10:58:28 2010
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:58:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401702613@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

Seconds for both!  I'm happy to welcome more Spitfire drivers...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it
through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a
great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights
and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)
His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father
and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris),
and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Mon Apr 12 11:03:53 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:03:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>

Sounds great, I'll second. Welcome John and Chris.

Pretty soon this ghetto is gonna get so big it may take over downtown...

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: April 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:10:16 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:10:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <546699.61729.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

2 new spits in one weekend ... AWSOME!!!!!
 
Of


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com> wrote:


From: spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com, seacubeco at aol.com
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 11:25 AM


Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:18:00 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:18:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members (second half of msg ;>(((
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <272312.34120.qm@web81102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

okay,
  My computer decided I was ready to send before I did ....
  OF COURSE!!!! I second two more spits ... Welcome, were happy to have you
...

Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com> wrote:


From: spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com, seacubeco at aol.com
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 11:25 AM


Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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_______________________________________________
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From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Apr 12 11:20:42 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:20:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] CSRG RACES AND TRIUMPHS and a Special TR3 and Driver
Message-ID: <03E410653478450986BD018A3183453B@Bud>

Hi Gang...We had 5 Triumphs at the CSRG races at Infineon....Scott Adair in
his Tr250...Tide Ebding in Steve Froines' 'Ol Blue'..(Steve was there
too)...Gary Horskorta in his red TR4...Myself in my Blue Spitfire....and the
Treat of the weekend....BILL MCANN(81 years old)...racing the red Tr3 that he
bought new in 1958, and last raced in 1965...Bill has not been away from
racing though...he usually races an H Modified......
Racer Bud


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:28:14 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:28:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I will second both nominations. Always good to have more Spit racers.

Doug
----- Original Message ----
From: "spitfiresuz at 141.com" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 12:25:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective
members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event
this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his
'64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock,
from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to
build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an
MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten
with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds,
anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary
to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!
Keep Triumphing,

Susan  :)
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From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Apr 12 12:07:22 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:07:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] spit suspension
Message-ID: <000a01cada6a$ffb87e30$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

In the prep stages for a '75 Spit autoxer.
Any words of wisdom regarding front
suspension modifications to enhance
caster, roll centers, a-arm pivot locations
etc.    Also.  Does a Zbar make much of
a contribution.  Thanks!

art de armond


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Mon Apr 12 12:08:58 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:08:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <C41A896803B44B5EB5FA01014E122D4E@your4dacd0ea75>

Looks like the hour delay from the time you post your email to the list
sending out the email is having an impact on the number of responses.

Guess the more the merrier...I call DOGPILE....

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul MacDonald
Sent: April 12, 2010 1:04 PM
To: spitfiresuz at 141.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Sounds great, I'll second. Welcome John and Chris.

Pretty soon this ghetto is gonna get so big it may take over downtown...

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: April 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:14:58 2010
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:14:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <m2gf39026c11004121214we753b872k9932cc98bee08d5d@mail.gmail.com>

Yes on the nominatios...the "Ghetto" crowd is on the rise !

rob deanes

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Doug Mitchell <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I will second both nominations. Always good to have more Spit racers.
>
> Doug
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "spitfiresuz at 141.com" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
> Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 12:25:30 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective
> members
>
>  Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event
> this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
> members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his
> '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock,
> from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to
> build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an
> MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten
> with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds,
> anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary
> to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan  :)
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
>  _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com


From Group44TR7 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 13:46:11 2010
From: Group44TR7 at aol.com (Group44TR7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:46:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
Message-ID: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>

Guys
 
    What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if 
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think 
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the 
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite. 
 
    The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter 
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the 
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must not 
be damaged by the testing procedure.
 
    Thanks in advance.
 
Cary


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:47:10 2010
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:47:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <q2yf39026c11004121247k7530a985j800453c7d873dd8e@mail.gmail.com>

Good two new members and the crowd thickens at the 'Ghetto" soon it will be
said that there are Triumphs everywhere..surrounded by TRs on the
track..what a good thing !

rob deanes

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 12:25 PM, spitfiresuz at 141.com
<spitfiresuz at 141.com>wrote:

> Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds, anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan   :)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com   Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on
> Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Apr 12 14:33:45 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:33:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <000501cada7f$741e8760$5c5b9620$@com>

They have my second.  Always good to have more Triumph racers.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
_______________________________________________
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From horizonracing at msn.com  Mon Apr 12 15:26:04 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:26:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
References: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w3BC876A20061CA84D89AAB2120@phx.gbl>

Gary,

Here in Seattle I use a company(con-am) that has under water sonic testing.
Used for testing raw materials before machining of parts and aircraft props
etc.



"cheapest- High performance composite" ???????

> From: Group44TR7 at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:46:11 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
>
> Guys
>
> What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
> crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
> advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are
the
> surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.
>
> The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
> hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
> point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
> be damaged by the testing procedure.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Cary
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From horizonracing at msn.com  Mon Apr 12 15:41:42 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sovren De-frost
Message-ID: <SNT141-w2119C6B7FA947EF60A0219B2120@phx.gbl>

Sovrens first race of the year was at pacific raceways this past weekend. A
low turn out of cars (66) as usually the weather is not so great. Had Sun both
days :) Just super !



A really Good turn out TR's with Steve Hare in his bright and colourful spit,
t.a mosser in Ive's old Tr4, Jeff Quick in a TR4a, John James TR4, Charlie
Mitchell TR6, Bill Hart Devin TR (sorry if I missed anyone).

Lots of happy faces amongst this group on Sunday. I think everyone had there
fill of small issues.........Some bigger than others ;) I changed the head
gaskets of John James and Bill Hart on sat nite. Bill won 1 of his races on
Sunday and John James Did a GREAT job to get a fighting second place in 1 of
his races.



till the next race for us at Same place in may



Best

TG


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 12 17:57:41 2010
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:57:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
In-Reply-To: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Thirteen Triumphs racing; nice weather, a great track, mass gather at the
Ghetto was tremendous as always; it just doesn't get any better.
 
It was nice to see more than one Spitfire racing at the same event.  Wherfe
are the rest of the vintage racing Triumphs???

--- On Sun, 4/11/10, Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
To: "FOT" <fot at Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 2010, 11:12 PM


We had another beautiful day for motor racing. Cloudless skies, low
humidity, high temp was around 80. After having 7 TRack sessions during the
previous 2 days, VDCA offered 3 more today, including an enduro. There was
some great racing in both the enduro and the feature race. However, a few of
the cars developed issues during the course of the day. Many of the issues
were overcome, and all the TR's that were expected to take the green in the
feature were there. And all finished except for 1. Both Spitfires ran the
enduro, but neither made the feature, as 1 had issues and the other had to
leave early enough to get home tonight, Monday is a work day. At the end of
the enduro, we were able to get 12 of the 13 cars in attendance together for
a group photo.

This was the first time that I was able to attend a VDCA event, and from my
vantage point, it was really top notch. As stated, there was a ton of track
time, I'm told the entry fee is very reasonable, and VIR is a first class
facility. There was a dinner Saturday night, the food was yummy and
plentiful, and the program took all of about 5-10 minutes. The TRiumph
ghetto is not to be missed. I'll be back next year.

Irv Korey
_______________________________________________
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From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 19:32:00 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:32:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
In-Reply-To: <220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>
	<220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <n2t673993c51004121832o9138ba04wdd4d4090c6fd6c83@mail.gmail.com>

" Where are the rest of the vintage racing Triumphs???"

Still in pieces.

-Bob


From jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:25:29 2010
From: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com (john preston)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:25:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>

Dear Susan and Friends of Triumph,
 Thanks for the vote and it was a pleasure to meet all the inhabitants of the
Triumph Ghetto this weekend at VIR.  The ghetto was more than willing to make
another space by the fire no matter how small the fire was and supply ample
quantities of cold beer and conversation. It was a joy.

How the weekend ended for me....
  This was my first time racing at VIR and as my confidence grew my lap times
shrank accordingly.  Dennis Delapp (sp?) was kind enough to help diagnose a
problem in my vent system that not enough air intake into the system was
helping to build too much pressure in the engine and filling my puke tank with
oil.  The car and driver continued to decrease lap times up to the start of
vintage enduro. I love the vintage enduro as a spitfire racer.  Its a chance
to show a few faster cars what David did to Goliath.   I managed to pass a few
MGBs, MGAs, TR3s and a few of the pesky Formula Vs by the 3d lap and could see
the next group of cars in my sights.  Going into turn 1 very hard the puke
tank spilled oil on the exhaust manifold and blow white smoke into the cockpit
and out the rear of the car.  Not knowing what had happened, I retired only to
find the leaking oil but decided not to go back out on the track until I could
fix the problem at my shop.  On the way to the FOT photo shoot in the paddock
I heard a small clink? and figured it was the hardware on my belts clinking in
the cockpit.  On the way to loading the car on the trailer the clink became
obvious as the left rear axle broke and the wheel fell off the car and the car
crashed to the ground.  Upon closer inspection it appears the axel broke on
the track only partway and finished heading towards the trailer.  My friend
exclaimed I was the luckiest SOB at the track and that I should by lottery
tickets that day...I did.  Luckily a formula V driver and former 1147 spit
owner saw the entire event and offered his oversize racing axels off his shelf
for free if I wanted them.  I hope to be back on the track for the season
finale in Savannah.

About me...
 My first car was an early 63 TR4 which I restored when I was 14 and was
bitten by the bug. I have had 5 TR4s and 4As until I was bitten again by the
racing bug in Savannah and sold my last TR4a for the Spitfire race car in 2003
where my wife and I started CAR (cheap ass Racing) a division of low rent
motorsports.  I am  a professional Archaeologist in Asheville North Carolina
and from time to time find my self with vast amounts of down time.  During one
of the longer down times I found myself as the manager of the British
Connection in Hendersonville North Carolina where we specialized in british
restoration and race car prep.  Later I worked as a mechanic in that business'
later incarnation of Standard Performance specializing only in Triumph
performance parts.  Now I own my own Archaeology company and work for another
and can rarely find time to turn wrenches on any thing but my own growing
small fleet.

Thanks again for a great time at VIR.
John Preston

> From: spitfiresuz at 141.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> CC: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:25:30 -0400
> Subject: Two new prospective members
>
> Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds, anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan   :)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Apr 12 21:49:11 2010
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:49:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
In-Reply-To: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>

Thanks for pointing this article out.

Scott... What an awesome car. Looks great. This is the first photos of the
car I have seen since you have owned it. What a great article. I had an
early picture of your car at VIR as my screen saver...flying. Every time I
looked at that Old photo I became instantly happy. Glad to see its in good
hands. Its nice to put the face of a car with the name of an FOTer.
Hope to race against you someday.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6+
GT6 Racecar Historian

 On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400, George Harmuth <harmug at us.ibm.com>
wrote:
> This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice
write
> up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.
> 
> http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm
> 
> Mike Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 07:14:59 2010
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:14:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
In-Reply-To: <bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>
References: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
	<bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>
Message-ID: <30D2F652-8A49-495F-9C30-DE48B6DD72C3@comcast.net>

Thanks - the site is heavily weighted to MGs at this point, and the  
guy from British Race Car (Curtis) was apologetic about that and said  
he would like to get some more Triumphs on there.  If you run into him  
at a vintage race, he's taking photos and will give you a car history  
form to fill out.
He caught me at the end of the season, having dropped two wheels off  
in the mud, so the car's not at it's most pristine, but it was running  
great that weekend.
here's the website, starting to build a nice mix of vintage racers on  
it.  http://www.britishracecar.com

On Apr 12, 2010, at 11:49 PM, <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

Thanks for pointing this article out.

Scott... What an awesome car. Looks great. This is the first photos of  
the
car I have seen since you have owned it. What a great article. I had an
early picture of your car at VIR as my screen saver...flying. Every  
time I
looked at that Old photo I became instantly happy. Glad to see its in  
good
hands. Its nice to put the face of a car with the name of an FOTer.
Hope to race against you someday.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6+
GT6 Racecar Historian

On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400, George Harmuth <harmug at us.ibm.com>
wrote:
> This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice
write
> up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.
>
> http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm
>
> Mike Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 13 08:10:18 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:10:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <827021.48936.qm@web81102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Cary,
  You didnt really give us enough info to give a good answer. 
  I did talk to a couple of people here where I work (gulfstream aerospace)
who work with composits.
  Our composit guy, Steve, said that composits can be checked for
de-laminating with a simple "tap" test.  If you tap the composit with a coin
or key, you should hear a sharp tap.  If you get to an area that is
de-laminating you will hear a clearly different "thud" kind of sound.  He also
said that if you are working with a thin "painted on" type of coating over
metal, the easiest might be to sand it off, check for cracks and "re-paint"
the composit.
  His best suggestion for anything critical would be "X-ray".
  When I talked to the people in NDT (non destructive testing), they did not
put much faith in ultra-sonic testing.  As the waves pass thru 2 different
materials, they deform (picture a straw in a glass of water), making it
difficult to determine the depth and exact location of a crack.
  Again, they suggested X-ray as being the best method of testing wether you
have solid composite, laminate over composite, or composite over metal.
  Bear in mind that we are working on aircraft, not cars, so we may be a bit
more picky than necessary for whatever part you have in question.  If it is
any critical part, however, I would lean toward their suggestions of X-ray.
  If you have an aircraft service facility nearby, they may be able to do the
testing for you, or be able to send it out to someone who can.  Its not cheap,
but if its something your life (or even the survival of your car) depends on,
its cheap insurance ..
  Hope this was of some help...
 
 


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, Group44TR7 at aol.com <Group44TR7 at aol.com> wrote:


From: Group44TR7 at aol.com <Group44TR7 at aol.com>
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 2:46 PM


Guys

    What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.

    The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
be damaged by the testing procedure.

    Thanks in advance.

Cary
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 11:43:03 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:43:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
	assistance
Message-ID: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>

Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs to
bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a little
higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that disguises the
powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the front end and put a
little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque


From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue Apr 13 12:50:53 2010
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:50:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
Message-ID: <79306447.779081.1271184653161.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>



From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 12:59:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:59:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>

I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way, so
I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that done
and start tuning.

The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad or
a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around until
tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.

Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on a
track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.

Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.

For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused by
roll-induced bump steer.


On Apr 13, 2010, at 7:43 AM, <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

> Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
> otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
> At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may
have
> been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my
capability
> to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
> and this action did not improve my lap times.
>
>
>
> The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to
> bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a little
> higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that disguises the
> powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the front end and put
a
> little more weight up front.
>
> I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other
problems
> and make the rear end loose at turn in.
>
>
>
> What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
> Morrison, Albuquerque


From billbab at me.com  Tue Apr 13 14:15:16 2010
From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:15:16 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
References: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <55617E4A-EA20-4D13-B373-9714B84AA9AD@me.com>

I never saw this show up. I don't think it's too long. is something busted? 

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Bill Babcock <billb at bnj.com>
> Date: April 13, 2010 8:59:51 AM HST
> To: <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
> Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my assistance
> 
> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way, so I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that done and start tuning. 
> 
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad or a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around until tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need. 
> 
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on a track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights. 
> 
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer. 
> 
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused by roll-induced bump steer. 


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 14:35:45 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:35:45 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <01985067-E8F7-4536-BAEE-A719557DC529@bnj.com>

Having cogitated on this a bit I think I know what is happening. Correcting
your rear camber increased traction at the rear, reducing the car's tail-happy
ways. Calling it "push" is indeed correct, the increased traction is pushing a
front end that was probably near it's limits before. All the suggestions
remain, with the added caution that  cutting your front springs is undoubtedly
going to make things worse. I'd go for a softer front spring and a softer sway
bar setting. Also double check your toe. I doubt you need much. I'd try zero
or a very slight toe in.

On Apr 13, 2010, at 8:59 AM, Bill Babcock wrote:

> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
> really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
> that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
> generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way,
so
> I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
> shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
> wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that
done
> and start tuning.
>
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad
or
> a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around
until
> tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
> outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
> could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.
>
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on
a
> track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
> cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.
>
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.
>
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused
by
> roll-induced bump steer.


From adams910 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 13 14:50:58 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:50:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure.
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already.

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring
rate from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and
I would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and
doing some real testing.

Bob


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 15:38:35 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:38:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1261104693.15225911271194715074.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Ultrasonic is probably the only reliable non-destructive way to test
composites.



you could venture into the realm of eddy currents, but reliability of UT makes
it the industry norm.



It will report out the depth of the crack as well as find any sub-surface
issues.



you could also go the X-ray route!



aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: Group44TR7 at aol.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:46:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?

Guys
B 
B B  B What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.
B 
B B  B The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
be damaged by the testing procedure.
B 
B B  B Thanks in advance.
B 


From tlizzard at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 15:48:02 2010
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:48:02 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl><EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl><EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS121E04940759809A527F1AC3110@phx.gbl>

I think the key here is that in lowering the rear the car has gone from static
positive camber to static negative camber.   This definitely has upped
traction at the rear and increased understeer.

More negative camber at the front, or softer front sway bar, or wider front
tires (assuming that it has wider rears currently), or some combination of all
three will yield the fix.


Terry Stetler


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 16:40:14 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:40:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <1744551976.14050901271197627982.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I agree with Bob, you have negative rake, you get that beak down to positive rake 

and it will help transfer some weight to the front. 

Can you get some negative camber in the front ? 

I can't tell you what to do with the springs on that car but if you can get your hands on a set of 

scales I would do that way before any skid pad testing. You can shim 

the springs to dial in cornerweights. 

How the car reacts when you lift ( in lie u of L-F brake) will give some clues as well. 

Any difference between left-hand cornering and right-hand ? If so it's definetly cornerweights. 

good luck . 

Jim G 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com> 
To: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com> 
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 2:50:58 PM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my assistance 

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure. 
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already. 

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring 
rate from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and 
I would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and 
doing some real testing. 

Bob 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net 


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 16:53:54 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:53:54 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A4278D34-5B1C-4327-993B-C3085B59CAC7@bnj.com>

I'm biased because I had easy access to a "skid pad" -- a buddy's huge, flat
and very smooth parking lot. Checking corner weights makes sense for most
modern car race cars, but for ones with limited adjustability the result is
the question "Ok, it sucks, now what". Shimming springs on most cars screws
the ride height up.

On Apr 13, 2010, at 12:40 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> I agree with Bob, you have negative rake, you get that beak down to positive
rake
> and it will help transfer some weight to the front.
> Can you get some negative camber in the front ?
> I can't tell you what to do with the springs on that car but if you can get
your hands on a set of
> scales I would do that way before any skid pad testing. You can shim
> the springs to dial in cornerweights.
> How the car reacts when you lift ( in lieu of L-F brake) will give some
clues as well.
> Any difference between left-hand cornering and right-hand ? If so it's
definetly cornerweights.
> good luck .
> Jim G


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 17:10:13 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:10:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>,
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>,
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w177911D3CE52D680AE804A90110@phx.gbl>

I'm very tempted to go with the old go Kart theory of who care's how stiff it
is, as long as I can move some of the weight forward.  The car is using the
original 4CV springs designed for a 1322lb car.  My car weighs in at exactly
1000 lbs. At the local tight and twisty track, the car seems to do well and
when I've lost her, I lost the back end.  Most corners at our track here are
so slow that you just drive through and nothing happens.  Maybe altitude is
keeping everything safe and sane.  But at Coronado I did encounterr this
pushing problem.  There is a test and tune this weekend, maybe I'll have to
go...................Cheers Henry



Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:50:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
assistance
From: adams910 at gmail.com
To: billb at bnj.com
CC: dos_gusanos at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure.
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already.

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring rate
from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and I
would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and doing
some real testing.

Bob


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 21:41:13 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 20:41:13 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
 myassistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Good input from all.  One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the aero
effect.  Even at the relatively low speeds your talking about, having the
front end raised will cause front end lift.  The problem is showing up in a
flat out sweeper with the rest of the track handling well if I interpret
your comments correctly.  Dropping the front end should lower the lifting
effect and reduce the understeer in the flat out corner.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:43 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance


Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a
little higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that
disguises the powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the
front end and put a little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 14 01:32:20 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:32:20 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
 myassistance
In-Reply-To: <7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <000c01cadba4$9f77aba0$de6702e0$@com>

Take also in account that with a risen front you car will hover from the air
captured under the floor that will reduce the front end grip.
My front is lower that the rear end because of this, especially on fast
track with speed beyond 120 mph.
Have a look:
http://www.tr4-racing.de/pic/2009/spa/03.07.09Spa7Classic054.jpg

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Norlin Engineering
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 14. April 2010 05:41
An: dos_gusanos at msn.com; 'fot'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance

Good input from all.  One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the aero
effect.  Even at the relatively low speeds your talking about, having the
front end raised will cause front end lift.  The problem is showing up in a
flat out sweeper with the rest of the track handling well if I interpret
your comments correctly.  Dropping the front end should lower the lifting
effect and reduce the understeer in the flat out corner.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:43 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance


Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a
little higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that
disguises the powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the
front end and put a little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From seacubeco at aol.com  Wed Apr 14 19:43:59 2010
From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 21:43:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6B5C9CCE-0B32-44CB-9A34-E09867CB528F@aol.com>

Dear Future Triumph Friends,

Thank you for adding me to the list of triumph Friends.  Since  
getting home I have been bombarded with emails from members welcoming  
me and asking for help.  I love it!  Never has my inbox been so full  
with good mail then now.

The VIR weekend.
I was crew for the Jersey Devil Racers team 275, a MGA grey in  
color.  Unfortunately we broke in the first session on friday so we  
were spectators and help for our fellow Jersey Devil Racer team 25, a  
red immaculate Formula Vee.  I went wandering around and talked to  
John and Susan, the only two Spit drivers.  Both of you were  
extremely helpful and fun.  I had a great weekend.

About me.
I have restored a 1971 MG Midget when I was 20 and then sold it.  My  
friends (owners of the MGA #275) have always been British car nuts.  
One restored his first car, a GT6, and the other currently has a TR6.  
My brother is in the process of restoring a Porsche 912 for street/ 
race.  Another friend has a Spit that he autocrosses.    I eventually  
found a Spit that I could afford and I started a long slow  
restoration.  Right now it is completely in pieces and ready for the  
long road ahead of fixing, scraping, welding, and rebuilding.  I hope  
to have her on the road in 2-3 years but we will see.

The next race I will be at is the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point WV.   
Just look for the grey MGA and the red Formula Vee next to each other.

Thank you

Chris


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 08:29:47 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:29:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
Message-ID: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>

Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
excellence.
Vince Lombardi


From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 09:31:20 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:31:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>
References: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <05433A8E-6D77-4FE6-A067-8FF44E4C216A@aol.com>

I would sell all my spit stuff to get this.    Any one parts?

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 15, 2010, at 10:29 AM, "Bob Kramer" <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>  
wrote:

> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
> Bob Kramer
> Volente, TX
>
> Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
> excellence.
> Vince Lombardi
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 11:05:11 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:05:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
Message-ID: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/15/2010 10:23:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rkramer3 at austin.rr.com writes:


> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
> 

That Studebaker along side brings back a lot memories for me.  I had 
several Studebakers down through the years.  They were good little cars, often 
well ahead of their time stylewise.  I even had a Lark truck and a Lark wagon 
in the mid-1960s, but neither lived up to the quality of the earlier Studes I 
had. 

Bill Dentinger


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Apr 15 12:17:16 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:17:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000801cadcc7$e12b89d0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

I still use my Lark truck V8 o'drive for light towing,
firewood hauling and other fairly light duties.
Not as sturdy a piece as the earlier Stude trucks,
but still pretty good devices.   It is New Mexico
truck  and not very rusty.  Still presentable.
I plan to install a disc brake kit and rear air springs
and pull the occasional TR racer behind it soon.

art de armond

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494


> In a message dated 04/15/2010 10:23:15 AM Central Daylight Time,
> rkramer3 at austin.rr.com writes:
>
>
>> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
>>
>
> That Studebaker along side brings back a lot memories for me.  I had
> several Studebakers down through the years.  They were good little cars, 
> often
> well ahead of their time stylewise.  I even had a Lark truck and a Lark 
> wagon
> in the mid-1960s, but neither lived up to the quality of the earlier 
> Studes I
> had.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 15 12:57:07 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:57:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] VIR Photo
Message-ID: <566988.72787.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For all of you who were at VIR this past weekend - I am still in Tennessee.
The guzzler broke down, and we are waiting for a second fuel pump to be installed.
If you would like a copy of our group photo just shoot me an email and I'll send you one when I get home.

Great fun being in Virginia again this Spring
Dennis


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Thu Apr 15 13:14:30 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:14:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members and roll call for Jefferson
 500
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1271354402.10001.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>

"The next race I will be at is the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point WV.
Just look for the grey MGA and the red Formula Vee next to each other.

Thank you

Chris"

Welcome to the group Chris. I'll be at the Jefferson 500 with the 63
Spitfire, my first time at Summit. Look for a red Spitfire, yellow roll
cage, #7. Even though you associate with MGs, stop by for a cool one. The
Jersey Devils are welcome too.

While I'm on the subject, any one else going to be at the Jefferson?


G. Michael Harmuth


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 15 14:21:48 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:21:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members and roll call for Jefferson
 500
In-Reply-To: <OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.0.1271354402.10001.fot@autox.team.net>,
	<OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W195C0B5675D91F3B6DF91DA50F0@phx.gbl>

> While I'm on the subject, any one else going to be at the Jefferson?
>
>
> G. Michael Harmuth


I'll be spectating, health permitting. Look for ugly pony-tail guy huffing
oxygen from a cylinder.



John H.


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 18:32:18 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:32:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>

That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination 
and $$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the 
previous year that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly 
don't make 'em like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs 
were a very close second...

M


From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Thu Apr 15 19:16:24 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com> <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AAB8F2915E7045FB96B7FE5837377706@jrg>

Where in the UK did they make Studebakers?

I'm just wishing I was still back up in the swamps of Jersey so I could snag
a nice race project.



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
'76 DM Spitfire autocrosser
And more projects than I can finish this millenium

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:32 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494

That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination and
$$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the previous year
that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly don't make 'em
like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs were a very close
second...

M
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jgambony at gcecisp.com



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.791 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/13/10
01:32:00


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 16 06:40:17 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:40:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
 Restriction
Message-ID: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3 of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=


From billdentin at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 07:36:22 2010
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:36:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCAB80EFAC8FAF-3C28-9096@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>

Joe...
I don't want to lead you astray, but my TR3 race car has always registered
HIGH psi on my standard (period correct) oil guage when racing.  We used to
worry about it, but finally assumed the guage was peculiar and learned to live
with it.
Bill


From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 07:48:22 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:48:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7C0C758C-5889-4049-9478-1416C2340CEC@aol.com>

I will venture a guess. Could it be a bad seal or a small crack.    
Maybe even a wrong filter
Just a guess

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 16, 2010, at 8:40 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to  
> 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back  
> as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and  
> about 1/3 of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under  
> the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil  
> around the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if  
> anyone has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but  
> needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting  
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 08:54:21 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:54:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitty vibes - Update #1
Message-ID: <A38A71F62FD14C8B89F4A580C89108D9@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Picked up the rebuilt driveshaft today.  The guy that did it wasn't there
today, so I'm not sure all that was done.  What they told me was hand
selecting rollers to minimize play in the slip joint - That seems to have
worked, much better than when I took it in.  They were also selecting
u-joint caps to eliminate end play there.  And then a rebalance.  The
paperwork just says check, straighten & balance.  

Shaft goes in the car tomorrow.  Car is on the track at Portland Saturday
morning with wife, Patty driving.  She experienced the problems at
Thunderhill, so will be able to tell any difference.

More on Sunday or Monday.

Jim


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Fri Apr 16 09:26:33 2010
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:26:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <98047EEA074C4813836703E20A155DCA@elliott7455dae>

Joe - Do you have a spin-on oil filter ?  Or is it a spin-off design ?  Or 
is it an original filter design ?

Don Elliott, Montreal

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY 
Restriction


> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3 
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting 
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/58tr3a at videotron.ca


From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Apr 16 09:31:24 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:31:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
	<4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com> <AAB8F2915E7045FB96B7FE5837377706@jrg>
Message-ID: <000801cadd79$e0dfdff0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

It is possible there was a distributor in the UK who
assembled "kits" from the states.  This was done with
great success in Australia.  Most Studes were engineered
both right and left hand drive.

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gambony" <jgambony at gcecisp.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494


> Where in the UK did they make Studebakers?
>
> I'm just wishing I was still back up in the swamps of Jersey so I could 
> snag
> a nice race project.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire autocrosser
> And more projects than I can finish this millenium
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Mark Eginton
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
>
> That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination 
> and
> $$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the previous 
> year
> that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly don't make 'em
> like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs were a very close
> second...
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 16 10:17:01 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
Message-ID: <a0f3d.4826326f.38f9e77d@cs.com>

I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.

So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.

Joe


> Joe - Do you have a spin-on oil filter ?  Or is it a spin-off design ?  
> Or 
> is it an original filter design ?
> 
> Don Elliott, Montreal
> 

</HTML>


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 10:43:38 2010
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:43:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cadd83$f770f5b0$e652e110$@racer@comcast.net>

Joe:

Could you have a clogged or defective oil filter?

Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 5:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
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From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 16 11:11:05 2010
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:11:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] radiator preasure
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I have a problem with pressure in the radiator forcing coolant (water) to
the overflow catch can but not allowing the coolant back in the radiator. 

I
am no mechanic, do not build or assemble the engine but would like to
understand possible contributing circumstances and possible solutions.

The
engine is TR-4, have run the same head and same bottom end for five race
weekends with none of these symptoms. changed engine builders, freshened the
bottom,did valve job with new valves same dimension, same supplier. Dyno
tested and tuned with no sign of a problem. I have used a 7lb cap forever,
have more than adequate radiator that was new 4 race weekends ago.

first race
weekend problem showed up. I'm a slow learner so I limped along by keeping the
radiator full. apparently by the time I realized the magnitude I over heated
the engine enough to damaged pistons and liners. By the end of the weekend
decided it was the radiator cap.

Bought new cap, had the pistons and liners
replaced, next weekend same problem I loose between 8 and 16oz depending how
hard I drive. Tried a 13lb cap at the track with no improvement. I located a
20 lb cap but got a recommendation to not use one that high so I did not test
that. There is no sign of water in the combustion chamber.

My questions are
what can cause this change and what might be my solutions.

thanks in
advance,  Mark Wheatley
                             #86 TR-4










=
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From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Fri Apr 16 12:13:21 2010
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:13:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A5466DD2B4A4E208EDA74F1E9F2B657@Dell5100Laptop>

Joe, my TR4 race car has two oil pressure gauges, one reads before the
filter and the other reads at the oil gallery.  In effect, one reads coming
out of the pump and the other reads after it has gone through the system.
If everything is normal, the gauge reading before the filter is about 10psi
higher than the reading at the oil gallery.  On two occasions I have seen
the first gauge reading much higher than normal and the second gauge reading
much lower.  The problem was a clogged oil filter and when the filter was
replaced everything went back to normal.  My guess on the excess oil is that
if it can't get through the filter it's being forced out somewhere else.
Don

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
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From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 14:17:08 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:17:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <0A5466DD2B4A4E208EDA74F1E9F2B657@Dell5100Laptop>
Message-ID: <A244D57030794B7DAC8F1EA4A8B2E727@Bud>

Joe  my friend put a new engine in his MGB racecar...ran it a bit then 
changed the filter....he put on a Fram filter that fit fine, but was the 
wrong filter for the engine...he couldn't get enough oil pressure through 
the filter...taked to Huffaker..he changed filters, and all was fine...I 
later spoke to a friend who has a racecar shop...very experienced guy...He 
said to stay away from FRAM filters...
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ofbracing" <ofbracing at nefcom.net>
To: <n197tr4 at cs.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restriction


> Joe, my TR4 race car has two oil pressure gauges, one reads before the
> filter and the other reads at the oil gallery.  In effect, one reads 
> coming
> out of the pump and the other reads after it has gone through the system.
> If everything is normal, the gauge reading before the filter is about 
> 10psi
> higher than the reading at the oil gallery.  On two occasions I have seen
> the first gauge reading much higher than normal and the second gauge 
> reading
> much lower.  The problem was a clogged oil filter and when the filter was
> replaced everything went back to normal.  My guess on the excess oil is 
> that
> if it can't get through the filter it's being forced out somewhere else.
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> Restriction
>
> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofbracing at nefcom.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 16 16:38:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:38:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] radiator preasure
In-Reply-To: <626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
	<626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <07a401caddb5$8c79c4d0$a56d4e70$@rr.com>

> I have a problem with pressure in the radiator forcing coolant (water)
> to the overflow catch can but not allowing the coolant back in the
> radiator.

If it's not pulling coolant back out of the reservoir, then there is an air
leak somewhere.  Could be in the overflow hose, could be a water pump seal,
could be a small compression leak (too small to show on a compression test),
or (most common in my experience) the secondary seal in the radiator cap is
not sealing to the top of the radiator neck.

If you have an early TR4 with the tall (1") fill neck, most of the caps
available don't have that secondary seal.  Any radiator shop can substitute
a later neck, though.

Note that it is normal for a certain amount of water to be expelled to the
reservoir as the engine warms up.  Water expands more than cast iron does.
So the issue is why doesn't it get sucked back in as the engine cools.
Since it cools slowly, it only takes a microscopic leak to cause problems.

-- Randall 


From KENMUN at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 07:31:07 2010
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:31:07 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
Message-ID: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped  
running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no  
compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going up/down.  
inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt was  
sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go 
up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, the 
locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any 
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage  racer


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sat Apr 17 15:04:31 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:04:31 GMT
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
Message-ID: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>

Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
BODY Restri...
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT

I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.

So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.

Joe




____________________________________________________________
Understanding Chemo
Get the Facts About How Chemo Works & Tips for a Successful Outcome.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca226816a9966ba0st05duc


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 15:59:04 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:59:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <EB2E8516C0BF43FD8612BB953AB5D5A5@Bud>

That oil line sound like a likely possibility..I've had that on my 
spitfire..
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch at netzero.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restri...


> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> To: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
> BODY Restri...
> Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
>
> I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
>
> So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Understanding Chemo
> Get the Facts About How Chemo Works & Tips for a Successful Outcome.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca226816a9966ba0st05duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 17 16:04:36 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:04:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>

> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  

Both of them ...


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Apr 17 16:57:12 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 00:57:12 +0200
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
In-Reply-To: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
References: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000401cade81$528f4930$f7addb90$@com>

I don't use the locking tabs at this point.
I use loctite to fix the bolts in their threads.
Never came one lose 'till now.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von KENMUN at aol.com
Gesendet: Samstag, 17. April 2010 15:31
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped
running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no
compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going up/down.

inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt
was
sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go
up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, the
locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage
racer
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 17:00:41 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
	<030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2AFC8B92-3828-4006-9AD3-5B65709DA7E4@aol.com>

What about running it with out the filter element to see if the filter  
is clogged and causing excess pressure?  Maybe a bypass valve is bad

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 17, 2010, at 6:04 PM, "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge  
>> fitting
>> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?
>
> Both of them ...
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Apr 17 17:25:48 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CCAC9C72858D77-36C-1527@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>

Joe,

Using Kas' sage instructions in search of oil leaks, I have isolated two areas
of leaks.

One was from the dipstick hole. Puzzling, as I have never seen this much
activity at the dipstick hole.

The second source, and most significant is to be revealed by removing the
transmission.

I have hopes that it is the machining plug hole behind the cam shaft. This
seems most likely and my first choice over the rear crank seal.

Thanks for all of the support, moral and technical. Although I have not rung
the AMBRO out aggressively, there are indications that it will run strong and
handle well.

Joe








-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: 58tr3a at videotron.ca; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 4:04 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
BODY Restri...


Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
attached
o the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
rom: N197TR4 at cs.com
o: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
ubject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
estri...
ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
Joe


___________________________________________________________
enny Stock Jumping 2000%
ign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
ttp://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca22681679f67e7fst04duc


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 17:43:09 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:43:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
References: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
	<000401cade81$528f4930$f7addb90$@com>
Message-ID: <57816C865F5E4C63AB92141DC7A4F7B4@Bud>

sounds like your distributor drive broke..freezing up the cam, while the 
cranshaft still wanted to turn the cam with the timing chain.
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <KENMUN at aol.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared


>I don't use the locking tabs at this point.
> I use loctite to fix the bolts in their threads.
> Never came one lose 'till now.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von KENMUN at aol.com
> Gesendet: Samstag, 17. April 2010 15:31
> An: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
>
> fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped
> running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no
> compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going 
> up/down.
>
> inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt
> was
> sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go
> up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, 
> the
> locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any
> ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage
> racer
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 17 17:48:53 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:48:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901cade88$8b224d40$a166e7c0$@com>

Joe,
	Just a thought, check on the canister housing and make sure there is
only ONE "o-ring" in the groove.  It's easy to have 2 and sometimes 3 forced
in there.  As I recall, the stock housing casting has a taper on it to guide
the canister into the slot.  With 2 or 3 "o-rings" in there the canister
will tend to wobble around a bit and leak.  As I recall, Ryan's street TR4
had 2 "o-rings" in the canister.  The oil pressure initially at road speed
and then dropping to a normal 50 PSI or so at 3000 sounds about right for a
stock engine.

	Doesn't explain the problem with the spin on but it could be two
separate problems, just to confuse everybody!!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 7:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 18:34:01 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:34:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
	<8CCAC9C72858D77-36C-1527@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <18E7CBB1672A495993865267B5DDE34A@Bud>

I run a breather tube from my dipstick hole to my catch can...I inserted a 
piece of copper tubing about 3" long (actually from a toilet tank)(i had to 
taper it a bit), and then ran a rubber hose from there...
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <jaboruch at netzero.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restri...


> Joe,
>
> Using Kas' sage instructions in search of oil leaks, I have isolated two 
> areas
> of leaks.
>
> One was from the dipstick hole. Puzzling, as I have never seen this much
> activity at the dipstick hole.
>
> The second source, and most significant is to be revealed by removing the
> transmission.
>
> I have hopes that it is the machining plug hole behind the cam shaft. This
> seems most likely and my first choice over the rear crank seal.
>
> Thanks for all of the support, moral and technical. Although I have not 
> rung
> the AMBRO out aggressively, there are indications that it will run strong 
> and
> handle well.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>
> To: N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: 58tr3a at videotron.ca; fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 4:04 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
> BODY Restri...
>
>
> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached
> o the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> rom: N197TR4 at cs.com
> o: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
> ubject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> estri...
> ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
> I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
> So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
> Joe
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> enny Stock Jumping 2000%
> ign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
> ttp://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca22681679f67e7fst04duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 18:39:31 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:39:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
	<000901cade88$8b224d40$a166e7c0$@com>
Message-ID: <AFDDBB2308B14959AD85EB62B6F041D5@Bud>

JOE..Tim's idea about the oil filter rubber  rings an old bell..... I know 
you are experienced in this stuff...but remember..Only check/change 1 THING 
AT A TIME...and be sure to email us for approval before you take a dinner 
break(:>)
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
To: <n197tr4 at cs.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restriction


> Joe,
> Just a thought, check on the canister housing and make sure there is
> only ONE "o-ring" in the groove.  It's easy to have 2 and sometimes 3 
> forced
> in there.  As I recall, the stock housing casting has a taper on it to 
> guide
> the canister into the slot.  With 2 or 3 "o-rings" in there the canister
> will tend to wobble around a bit and leak.  As I recall, Ryan's street TR4
> had 2 "o-rings" in the canister.  The oil pressure initially at road speed
> and then dropping to a normal 50 PSI or so at 3000 sounds about right for 
> a
> stock engine.
>
> Doesn't explain the problem with the spin on but it could be two
> separate problems, just to confuse everybody!!
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 7:40 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> Restriction
>
> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 21:09:50 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 23:09:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
Message-ID: <2603e.2ef26663.38fbd1fe@aol.com>

I had a close call where the factory cam-to-chain wheel set screws had  
stretched and only the lock tabs (and the timing of my routine  inspection) 
saved the day.  I talked to the Triumph parts manager, and  he sold some up 
rated set screws to me.  They had the same part# but you  can ID them easily as 
the top of the heads are rough looking.  I stopped  reusing old one factory 
ones!
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/17/2010 11:54:18 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  KENMUN at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
To:  fot at autox.team.net
Message-ID:  <6e60.51066657.38fb121b at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went  "bang" and stopped  
running. external signs were that the engine  turned over like there was no 
 
compression, the dist. didn't turn and  the push rods weren't going 
up/down.  
inside the cam sprocket bolts  were sheared and the chain cover center bolt 
was  
sheared. the crank  turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go 
up/down  with no  extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, 
the 
locking  tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any  
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3  vintage  
racer


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Apr 18 09:55:34 2010
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:55:34 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 3.89 Quaife prices?
Message-ID: <361dc.79dad422.38fc8576@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
 
What's a 3.89 Quaife in a Spitty/GT6 housing worth on the market these  
days?  I'm thinking a grand but don't really know.  Anybody know what  they're 
going for new nowadays?
 
I'm thinking I'd be a damned fool to even sell it but that's another  
discussion...;-))


From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 18 15:39:38 2010
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:39:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] radiator pressure
Message-ID: <658786.9942.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all for enlightenment and input received. I have come to the
conclusion that my problem is most likely from weakness in the head. It has
been repaired in the past. Pinholes were discovered in the most recent
disassembly that I tried to repair with ceramic seal. apparently not
successfully. engine goes to the shop tomorrow, further testing will tell. 
Thanks again

mark


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sun Apr 18 19:46:25 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:46:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitty Vibes - Update # 2
Message-ID: <55336EA4BD644F35ACE83927BD7CC8A9@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Well, the refurbished driveshaft worked, no bad vibes according to wife
Patty.  She had a great weekend.  No problems with the car at all, ran a
fast lap within 1 second of my best and finished 6th out of 10 cars in the
small bore vintage class.  


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Tue Apr 20 01:13:34 2010
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:13:34 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Dear List'ers,

 

Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
engine? And what you think of them?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4
Fot mailing list

 <mailto:Fot at autox.team.net> Fot at autox.team.net

 <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Apr 20 05:10:04 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:10:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, Peter Vucinic wrote:

> Dear List'ers,
>
>
>
> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?

I recall seeing adverts that these would be available a few years back, 
but I don't recall actually ever seeing them.

I just did a quick search for ally heads at Moss and didn't find them. 
What vendor is selling them?

>From the "racer" perspective here in the USA, the rules bodies would limit 
where you could run a TR6 with an alternate cylinder head, so that would 
limit interest.

So, while the idea of using an ally head has appeal, there are limits to 
where you can use one.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR-4

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Tue Apr 20 06:11:38 2010
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:11:38 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAACHidNhL7nVHhjElfazbV9ABAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Robert,
Thanks for the reply. I myself have also come to the conclusion that they
have 'disappeared'. Still being made for the Big Healy's and MG's. It just
may have been the lack of demand that saw them die out. I can't find TR4
Alloy heads. You are correct in that these were being sold by MOSS.


Thanks.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] 
Sent: Tuesday, 20 April 2010 9:10 PM
To: Peter Vucinic
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, Peter Vucinic wrote:

> Dear List'ers,
>
>
>
> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?

I recall seeing adverts that these would be available a few years back, 
but I don't recall actually ever seeing them.

I just did a quick search for ally heads at Moss and didn't find them. 
What vendor is selling them?

>From the "racer" perspective here in the USA, the rules bodies would limit 
where you could run a TR6 with an alternate cylinder head, so that would 
limit interest.

So, while the idea of using an ally head has appeal, there are limits to 
where you can use one.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR-4

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 07:35:47 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:35:47 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:


> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the 
> TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?
> 

I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of 
my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to 
seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to leak. 
 It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then we 
finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new 
(at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a weight, 
and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal 
over the standard heads on our other engines.

Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.

Bill Dentinger


From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr 20 09:54:09 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:54:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
References: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <y2hd9f7bd331004200854i684b05f0z1f5d06007723fa26@mail.gmail.com>

I remember seeing the ads for the aluminum TR6 heads and thinking 'if I am
going to go to the expens and penalty of changing materials then I really
would much perfer to get some kind of serious performance gain out of it,
not just a weight reduction. Something like a total re-engineer and getting
a cross-flow head or _something_.

But alas, it is not to be. I guess I get to stick with the old lumps o iron.
:)

iii


On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:
>
>
> > Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the
> > TR6
> > engine? And what you think of them?
> >
>
> I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of
> my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to
> seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to
> leak.
>  It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then we
> finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new
> (at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a
> weight,
> and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal
> over the standard heads on our other engines.
>
> Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue Apr 20 11:07:35 2010
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (rjl6n at cstone.net)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:07:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
References: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <441fe0e335356c50b28e9a8b4f16447e.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

The serious engine builders like them because it is
a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
flow.

John

On Tue, April 20, 2010 9:35 am, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:
>
>
>> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the
>> TR6
>> engine? And what you think of them?
>>
>
> I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of
> my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to
> seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to
> leak.
>  It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then
> we
> finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new
> (at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a
> weight,
> and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal
> over the standard heads on our other engines.
>
> Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 13:05:01 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:05:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjl6n at cstone.net writes:

> The serious engine builders like them because it is
> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
> flow.
> 
I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have I 
bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone 
had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered mine, 
and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped 
me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to be 
a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently 
someone made a whole bunch of them.

Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of 
special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving 
options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never seen one. 
 If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.

Bill Dentinger


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 20 13:29:41 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:29:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
Message-ID: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could answer a
couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good time
to call, I'll give you a call.
  Thanks in advance


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Apr 20 13:35:36 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:35:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100420153536.ENTS4.66323.imail@fed1rmwml46>

Yes, Bill, back in the sixties, I asked the factory foundry to scrub the cores of the TR-4 head and make me about a dozen special heads that had aprox.13 to 1 compression before any modifications were completed. The heads were passed around to the hot competitors at that time and of course some were in engines in cars I was passing on also.  The head was indeed thicker at the gasket surface and helped a lot with keeping things together.  They were impossible to identify from the outside although the edge on the spark plug side was very thin. If anyone has one, treasure it.
---- BillDentin at aol.com wrote: 

=============
In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjl6n at cstone.net writes:

> The serious engine builders like them because it is
> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
> flow.
> 
I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have I 
bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone 
had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered mine, 
and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped 
me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to be 
a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently 
someone made a whole bunch of them.

Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of 
special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving 
options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never seen one. 
 If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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--
Never be beaten by equipment


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Apr 20 14:09:57 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:09:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
References: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C93168108FA542C48E9DD805CCA95827@Charly>

Is this what you're looking for?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


http://www.rvanwest.com/PCS/72pcs.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom strange" <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...


>  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could 
> answer a
> couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good 
> time
> to call, I'll give you a call.
>  Thanks in advance
>
>
> Tom
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm
>
>
> #4 white spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Apr 20 15:08:15 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:08:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
In-Reply-To: <C93168108FA542C48E9DD805CCA95827@Charly>
Message-ID: <20100420170815.EIB0G.67680.imail@fed1rmwml46>

That is a very interesting rule book.  I did all the homologation through 1970.  Obviously I did not do the 1972 issue.The page on the GT-6 shows the carburetors to be 1.25", WRONG, and there was never a GT-6 with that Spitfire carburetor.  They all had Stromberg 1.5" units. So much for using the SCCA books to sort out protests.

---- Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com> wrote: 

=============
Is this what you're looking for?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


http://www.rvanwest.com/PCS/72pcs.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom strange" <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...


>  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could 
> answer a
> couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good 
> time
> to call, I'll give you a call.
>  Thanks in advance
>
>
> Tom
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm
>
>
> #4 white spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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--
Never be beaten by equipment


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 20 15:13:03 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:13:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...  Got it ...
In-Reply-To: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <850233.74321.qm@web81101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

thanks to all who answered .. a couple of you may get a call from me, but
between the pdf file and one or two people, I should be able to find out what
I want to know.


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Tue, 4/20/10, tom strange <tstrange at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: tom strange <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 2:29 PM


  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could answer
a
couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good
time
to call, I'll give you a call.
  Thanks in advance


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue Apr 20 15:54:34 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:54:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
References: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1256C63A2E9641BCA670C9218A1AC289@latitudefb1e41>

I have one of them, they are real. I like it so much I spent $300 getting a 
minor flaw welded only to store it for safe keeping. I'm afraid to ruin it. 
It came with my TR4A, which was originally owned by a Triumph dealer in 
Baton Rouge. He was one of the lucky ones to get one from Kas.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads


> In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rjl6n at cstone.net writes:
>
>> The serious engine builders like them because it is
>> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
>> flow.
>>
> I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have 
> I
> bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone
> had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered 
> mine,
> and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped
> me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to 
> be
> a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently
> someone made a whole bunch of them.
>
> Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of
> special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving
> options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never 
> seen one.
> If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Tue Apr 20 16:18:30 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:18:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
	VTR??
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>

Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired 
cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on 
the frame?
I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best 
method has been.
I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to 
repair it.
Thanks in advance
Glenn Franco
3 6's Tr250 and Spits
Also
What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
Thanks
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
> ************************************


From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr 20 16:57:52 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:57:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <l2ld9f7bd331004201557q88439dfqb1e962ef7d969c90@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, I have done it. I welded it all up from underneath.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 6:18 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential
> pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best
> method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair
> it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************
>>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From goodparts at verizon.net  Tue Apr 20 21:59:30 2010
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:59:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <2191180C8B7849A684D07C393A4D1ADD@AdminPC>

I do them from the bottom with the body on.  If the front pins are cracked 
around the weld at the top you can re-weld them from the bottom.  Whether or 
not they were cracked you should strengthen them or they will.  Before 
welding plated to the sides of the front mounts I cut a piece of 3/16" x 1" 
flat iron to fit  inside of the mount box from front to back and along side 
of the pin.  Then weld to the front and back walls and vertically along its 
1" contact with the pin.  This prevents the pin from moving and cracking the 
weld at the top again.

Richard Good

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3 at charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:18 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel forVTR??> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential 
pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best 
> method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair 
> it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************
> _______________________________________________


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 21 07:59:43 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 06:59:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
Message-ID: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
have suggested starting tire pressures?

Thanks

Mike


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 21 08:48:18 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:48:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>

I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.

- Tony Drewds

At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
>Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
>have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Apr 21 10:16:40 2010
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <j2v8cbd782d1004210916p3fd7351o153c8efbf9bc93c9@mail.gmail.com>

At the CRC I asked the Hoosier guy and he said start with 26 pounds
all around cold.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
> Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
> have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>



--
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Apr 21 10:51:11 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:51:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<j2v8cbd782d1004210916p3fd7351o153c8efbf9bc93c9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <540F5D51B4AA409999D8154DC29A41B5@Charly>

Hey Chuck, what happened to you at the Defrost?
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Triumph Friends of" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures


> At the CRC I asked the Hoosier guy and he said start with 26 pounds
> all around cold.
>
> On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I 
>> have
>> Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last 
>> fall
>> have suggested starting tire pressures?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 21 13:57:18 2010
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:57:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
Message-ID: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 21 14:24:11 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:24:11 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cae190$9cef7740$d6ce65c0$@com>

They really do.
I had trouble at revs beyond 5500 with overheating on the Nordschleife (30
seconds full throttle)
Since I run one of those pumps all trouble is gone.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Wagner
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 21:57
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do
they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 21 14:26:45 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:26:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>

This is very low - I never could run this pressure with the Yokohama tires.
Interesting!

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tony Drews
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 16:48
An: Mike Mehl; Triumph Friends of
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures

I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.

- Tony Drewds

At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
>Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
>have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Wed Apr 21 14:52:43 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:52:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
Message-ID: <EF3EB983-CF41-4FC7-8A19-9E2EFA450EC9@aol.com>

John


 From what I know about waterpumps on a street car a 6 blade should be  
fine.  On a race car a 6 blade might cavitate at high rpm.  Cavitation  
is a bad thing.  I have read that some people cut two blades off


Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 21, 2010, at 3:57 PM, John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water  
> pump? Do they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?
>
> Thank you
> John Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Apr 21 20:04:23 2010
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:04:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
References: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81515F876B0A43389B41E814D11EC02E@TER2>

I recently acquired what I believe to be one of the 13 heads that Kas told 
me he had made. At first I noticed that the part  number, 511695 that is 
stamped into the head above the #1 inlet port was upside down and in smaller 
numbers than any of the other TR heads that I have ever seen. I then noticed 
some differences in the casting. After some measurement, we found that with 
.200" milled off of the head, the bottom deck is still over .200" thick and 
the edge of the shelf of the head under the spark plugs is thick and not 
sharp as a normal head with .200" off would be. When I received this head, 
with a bunch of other parts, it have racing springs and alloy retainers on 
it and had been ported and polished. There was some damage to the "squish 
area" of  two of the chambers from broken rings or other debris getting 
crushed between the piston crown and the head. Fortunately, the head is 
still thick enough that it can be milled to clean it up and it will still be 
thick enough to hold a gasket!
    Teriann Wakeman has been down to take some pictures of the head. She may 
post them to her web site if people are interested.
                                                                             
                    Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads


> In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rjl6n at cstone.net writes:
>
>> The serious engine builders like them because it is
>> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
>> flow.
>>
> I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have 
> I
> bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone
> had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered 
> mine,
> and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped
> me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to 
> be
> a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently
> someone made a whole bunch of them.
>
> Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of
> special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving
> options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never 
> seen one.
> If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com
>
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Apr 21 20:24:53 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:24:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at
 rear bearing block.
Message-ID: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>

This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last year.

Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...

Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
to.

Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is the
cause of the leak.

If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)

If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
other cars.

I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized now...which is
likely a good thing.

Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for all of
the support.

Joe A....


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 21 21:17:28 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:17:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
	<000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>
Message-ID: <20100422031628.D8EE218765A@autox.team.net>

Now the Toyo RA-1's I ran at around 38 psi.

- Tony

At 03:26 PM 4/21/2010, MadMarx wrote:
>This is very low - I never could run this pressure with the Yokohama tires.
>Interesting!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 16:48
>An: Mike Mehl; Triumph Friends of
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
>
>I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.
>
>- Tony Drewds
>
>At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
> >Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
> >Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
> >have suggested starting tire pressures?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Mike
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
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>
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>
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From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Apr 22 06:22:52 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:22:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube
 at rear bearing block.
References: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FF5C04333084B3FB5AE7F2A6DC0B782@latitudefb1e41>

Is this the return tube on the rear main cap? The current Moss instructions 
for the rear seal recommend that we drill a couple of extra drain holes:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/837-005.pdf


2. Drill two extra 3/8" (10mm) diameter oil drain holes in bottom or rear 
main cap, (one each side of the original hole) at a similar angle. (Fig 3) 
This will remove all unnecessary pressure from the seal, and will not affect 
your oil pressure, or the main bearing lubrication.




Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at 
rear bearing block.


> This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last 
> year.
>
> Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...
>
> Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
> to.
>
> Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
> piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is 
> the
> cause of the leak.
>
> If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)
>
> If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
> inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
> which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
> other cars.
>
> I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized 
> now...which is
> likely a good thing.
>
> Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for 
> all of
> the support.
>
> Joe A....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Apr 22 07:18:55 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 09:18:55 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
Message-ID: <54116.6cfc12db.3901a6bf@aol.com>

Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy 
Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Apr 22 10:44:48 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:44:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cae23b$1f846a80$5e8d3f80$@com>

On our TR4 we had a 6 blade water pump and the shaft was turned down to
5/16-18 inch for the threaded end for the nut to hold the pulley on.  This
stub threaded shaft broke off, we overheated and cracked 2 liners.  I
replaced it with the 4 vane pump from Moss which has a 1/2 inch diameter,
12mm pitch thread to hold the pulley on.  It came with a Nylok nut but the
threaded portion is too short to engage the Nylok.  It's on my To Do list to
contact Moss for a spare 1/2 inch diameter, 12mm pitch nut!!  We noticed no
difference in cooling performance with the 4 vane versus the 6 vane.  And
the end of the shaft of the 4 vane didn't break off!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:57 PM
To: Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do
they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Apr 22 10:56:07 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:56:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube
 at rear bearing block.
In-Reply-To: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cae23c$b5634f20$2029ed60$@com>

As I recall, when I put in the new bearings in 2008 this tube was partially
blocked or maybe completely blocked with silicone sealant.  We had some
leakage but not a great deal as I recall.  I am still of the opinion that
the scroll seal will work properly IF: 1) The seal housing is centered on
the main journal using a mandrel, and; 2) The felt is pounded in using a
punch that fits the trapezoidal opening.  (That has been Kas's
recommendation.)  I've done this 3 times now and have not had any leaks from
the rear main.  We just fired up the engine after our bearing failure and
crank regrind from last Fall and again no  leaks from the rear main.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:25 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at
rear bearing block.

This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last
year.

Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...

Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
to.

Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is the
cause of the leak.

If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)

If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
other cars.

I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized now...which
is
likely a good thing.

Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for all
of
the support.

Joe A....
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Apr 22 10:57:12 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:57:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
References: <54116.6cfc12db.3901a6bf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005301cae23c$dadc0d50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Reminds me of what my old sponsor,  (mostly free advice)
an independent TR repair shop
told me a long time (40 years)ago.
It may be true that all you know you learned from Kas,
but don't think for a second he's taught you all he knows!

 art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>; <rjl6n at cstone.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads


> Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy
> Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Apr 22 11:36:32 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:36:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
In-Reply-To: <005301cae23c$dadc0d50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <20100422133632.Z6GHX.93930.imail@fed1rmwml29>

It is interesting the Greg has one of he heads and states that the edge on the spark plug side is thicker.  Terrific Morgan driver, Lew Spencer, is my great friend, and Greg now has his car, so as I had done some engines for Lew, maybe that is the routing of that piece. the thicker edge is true, but on some of them I noted strangely, that the shelf was very thin and actually had a slight curve and you could see the top of the block, just as edge that is, right at the back. So don't use the edge thickness of the pushrod shelf as a criteria. 
---- riverside <riverside at southslope.net> wrote: 

=============
Reminds me of what my old sponsor,  (mostly free advice)
an independent TR repair shop
told me a long time (40 years)ago.
It may be true that all you know you learned from Kas,
but don't think for a second he's taught you all he knows!

 art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>; <rjl6n at cstone.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads


> Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy
> Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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--
Never be beaten by equipment


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 22 17:19:41 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
Message-ID: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>

All,

I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld intrudes 
into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u-bolt sliding 
over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with the same 
problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?

Bob
57 TR3


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 22 17:42:27 2010
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:42:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 cross tube
Message-ID: <963302.95161.qm@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have a friend that needs a front suspension cross tube for a 64 TR4. Does anyone have a good one laying around that they could part with?
He bought one on ebay and it turned out to be for a 4-A and apparently they are not the same.

Thanks,
Mike Munson


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr 22 18:17:05 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:17:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
In-Reply-To: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
References: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <907185C6-A44D-4C71-8885-E5F5E969F661@earthlink.net>

I noticed these required changes on my Southwick-converted TR3.     My  
car has two different diameter U bolts for the inside and outside.   
The outside has a big flange welded on by Soutwick.  I'l take some  
pics and email them to you.

~Steve


On Apr 22, 2010, at 4:19 PM, Bob wrote:

All,

I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld  
intrudes into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u- 
bolt sliding over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with  
the same problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?

Bob
57 TR3
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From horizonracing at msn.com  Fri Apr 23 08:14:45 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:14:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
In-Reply-To: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
References: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w61AC5BEA6702FDB39DC0A6B2070@phx.gbl>

YES ! I ground groves with a carbide to get the nessary clearance.

> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:41 -0400
> From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
>
> All,
>
> I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld intrudes
> into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u-bolt sliding
> over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with the same
> problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?
>
> Bob
> 57 TR3
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 23 19:28:29 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
Message-ID: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Well;
I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed. 
I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike Mehl


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Fri Apr 23 21:11:54 2010
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:11:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EC4C68DA070A4037BE38C340DAF43001@Pendys>

Mike, i can assume that you re-torgued the head a time or to and did the 
head studs get set in the block ok ? I had the same issue at the same 
corner, water was weeping up the stud threads and coming out at the nut and 
washer area, i let it set till morning, and gave it another torgue and that 
took care of it.........Mark P
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: "Triumph Friends of" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:28 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR


> Well;
> I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
> sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
> overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build 
> the
> engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with 
> a
> few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it 
> fixed.
> I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
> leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
> Looking for some
> tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
> thanks!!!!!
>
> Mike Mehl
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 24 04:18:20 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 05:18:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>

The stock composite gasket (Payen AE 330) is the easiest to get to 
seal, and to me is the gasket of choice for at track 
repairs.  Actually, I use it always just because I hate changing head 
gaskets at the track.

You'll need to take the carbs / exhaust loose and pull the 
head.  Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  They should be 
even with each other as well.  A liner with 0.005" next to a liner 
with 0.002" protrusion is a problem.  Look for obvious problems like 
a crack in the block to one of the stud holes too.  If you've got 
some copper coat or Edelbrock Gaskacinch coat the gasket with that 
and install the head.  Torque to 100 ft lbs in increments (say 60 ft 
lbs, then 80 ft lbs then 100 ft lbs), working from the center to the 
ends of the head.  For the final torque I always go back to the 
center of the head after I make it to the ends because the gasket 
crushes a bit more.

Reassemble valvetrain making sure to keep the adjuster screws in the 
ends of the pushrods.  Set the valves.  Install the manifolds.  Fill 
with water, and warm it up.  After you have it hot for a bit (maybe 
run one session?), you'll want to re-torque the head.  You'll need to 
pull the rockers and the valve cover studs to do that (as you would 
have had to when removing the head).

Hope it works out for you!

Good luck, Tony Drews

At 08:28 PM 4/23/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Well;
>I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
>sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
>overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
>engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
>few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
>I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
>leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
>Looking for some
>tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
>thanks!!!!!
>
>Mike Mehl
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 08:13:52 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:13:52 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
Message-ID: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 08:28:04 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 07:28:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0f3b01cae3ba$5a397e60$0301a8c0@randall>

> Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
> protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
> gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
> want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  

Since you are having problems, be sure to check on both sides!  I fought
head gasket problems for years on my street TR3A (with a TR3 motor) that
turned out to be caused by the deck not being square to the liner bores.
Protrusion was fine on the side I always checked, but less than .001" on the
other side!

Although not the best solution, adding .020" copper O-rings to the head
gasket around each cylinder made a suitable band-aid for the problem.  I
drove it that way for quite a few years, and it was still not leaking when
the car got wrecked.  I used 'electrical' tin/lead rosin core solder to tack
the copper wire to the gasket; but Ken G's suggestion of super glue would
probably work just as well.

Randall


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Sat Apr 24 09:15:08 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:15:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] XKCD Tackles Lucas Electrics - Lucas Electrics - Jalopnik
Message-ID: <24A2443283B94D30914F5BAC68E60E41@desktop>

More wiring than I've seen on a TR
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44



http://jalopnik.com/5521107/xkcd-tackles-lucas-electrics


From kaskas at cox.net  Sat Apr 24 09:35:03 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 8:35:03 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>

Just as a bit of information, I believe it is Snap-On that makes a special off set box end wrench (it is a "C" shape) so that you can torque the head without removing the rockers.  We used these on all the pre-delivery Triumphs cars brought into the country back in the early 60's. I believe I still have one somewhere. 
---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote: 

=============
The stock composite gasket (Payen AE 330) is the easiest to get to 
seal, and to me is the gasket of choice for at track 
repairs.  Actually, I use it always just because I hate changing head 
gaskets at the track.

You'll need to take the carbs / exhaust loose and pull the 
head.  Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  They should be 
even with each other as well.  A liner with 0.005" next to a liner 
with 0.002" protrusion is a problem.  Look for obvious problems like 
a crack in the block to one of the stud holes too.  If you've got 
some copper coat or Edelbrock Gaskacinch coat the gasket with that 
and install the head.  Torque to 100 ft lbs in increments (say 60 ft 
lbs, then 80 ft lbs then 100 ft lbs), working from the center to the 
ends of the head.  For the final torque I always go back to the 
center of the head after I make it to the ends because the gasket 
crushes a bit more.

Reassemble valvetrain making sure to keep the adjuster screws in the 
ends of the pushrods.  Set the valves.  Install the manifolds.  Fill 
with water, and warm it up.  After you have it hot for a bit (maybe 
run one session?), you'll want to re-torque the head.  You'll need to 
pull the rockers and the valve cover studs to do that (as you would 
have had to when removing the head).

Hope it works out for you!

Good luck, Tony Drews

At 08:28 PM 4/23/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Well;
>I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
>sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
>overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
>engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
>few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
>I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
>leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
>Looking for some
>tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
>thanks!!!!!
>
>Mike Mehl
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net



--
Never be beaten by equipment


From billb at bnj.com  Sat Apr 24 10:23:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 06:23:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>
References: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>
Message-ID: <8EC25B7F-CA11-42E0-97E7-7541C1F78164@bnj.com>

Hmmm, I have a set of those, never found a use for them.

On Apr 24, 2010, at 5:35 AM, Kas Kastner wrote:

> Just as a bit of information, I believe it is Snap-On that makes a special
off set box end wrench (it is a "C" shape) so that you can torque the head
without removing the rockers.  We used these on all the pre-delivery Triumphs
cars brought into the country back in the early 60's. I believe I still have
one somewhere.


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 11:07:56 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 13:07:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 grill trinket
Message-ID: <4BD3256C.7000205@twcny.rr.com>

One last trinket I am looking for that I don't want reproduction since 
nothing else outside the engine internals is repop on this car. Thought 
one of you may have them in your pile of parts stripped off a racer - 
looking for the beauty rings around the small mouth for a '57.

Thanks,

M


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 11:21:39 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:21:39 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>

The problem is there is a
question as to whether Stahl
makes one for the IRS car.
jg

-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfire Racing
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
10:24 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Jim, It's worth the wait to
hear back from Stahl. They're
top shelf and do
build horsepower. Pieces like
Monza are crap and a waste of
money. Also,
avoid a place by the name of
Paco somewhere down south.
Alabama I think!I
run a Stahl and was amazed at
the quality and fit.

Russ Moore


-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
10:14 AM
To: 'fot'
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G
______________________________
_________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
cny.rr.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 24 15:20:30 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:20:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
Message-ID: <000501cae3f3$f8c700f0$ea5502d0$@com>

Call Ted Shumacher.  He has headers for the TR4 and we were able to order
ours with a thicker flange that mated up better to the intake manifold.  We
are quite pleased with it.  It did take some fitting with a carbide bit and
die grinder but nothing major.  Could have been fit up with a file and some
patience.  I'm guessing he can have his supplier make one to your needs.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 9:14 AM
To: 'fot'
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 15:46:40 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:46:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
Message-ID: <56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>

I have been bouncing my header off the ground in my TR4A too. I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits too far under the frame for off track 
excursions. If someone makes a better one for the application I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
> [mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl. They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces like
> Monza are crap and a waste of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
>
> I need a descent header for an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact Steve
> Stahl after hours. That didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
> ______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 16:05:07 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:05:07 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>

I'm getting pretty close to
making my own.
Mordy, do you still have the
flanges ?

Jim G

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer
[mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
3:47 PM
To: Jim Gray; 'Spitfire
Racing'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


I have been bouncing my header
off the ground in my TR4A too.
I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits
too far under the frame for
off track 
excursions. If someone makes a
better one for the application
I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable,
but if we chase perfection we
can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'"
<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph"
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
>
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl.
They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces
like
> Monza are crap and a waste
of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed
at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header
>
> I need a descent header for
an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now
is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know
anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact
Steve
> Stahl after hours. That
didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for
a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
>
______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
>
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
>
______________________________
_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr
.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 24 16:42:55 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:42:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
Message-ID: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>

Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 17:17:23 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:17:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
Message-ID: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>

After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the 
#@%% out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  
backfiring, changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared 
myself for. I do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 
minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, 
Tony Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... 
were talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures 
for boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 
other questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that 
helped me do it right the first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone 
sees something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday 
drives in before I see piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 24 17:41:59 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:41:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
In-Reply-To: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000501cae407$bce2bac0$36a83040$@com>

Congrats!!  A great "happy ending".  It is very gratifying after all the
work to hear that engine run and not see anything amiss.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 6:17 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: mechman54 at hotmail.com; quill3 at aol.com; Scott Eginton
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!

After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the 
#@%% out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  
backfiring, changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared 
myself for. I do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 
minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, 
Tony Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... 
were talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures 
for boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 
other questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that 
helped me do it right the first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone 
sees something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday 
drives in before I see piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Unsubscribe:
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From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Apr 24 18:02:36 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:02:36 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 41, Issue 35
Message-ID: <c882.4cfaec9d.3904e09c@aol.com>

I hope that you have a copy of the factory work shop manual (or  Bentley)
 
If you pull the head you need to hold down the liners if you even think of  
turning the crank.
 
The factory used lead wire under the head nuts to help seal them.  If  the 
head gasket sticks out into the combustion area it will fail in a few  laps. 
 GM makes the only sealer that I will use.
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/24/2010 10:49:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak  today at PIR
.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the  overflow tank.   I did not build the
engine and this is my first  triumph.  I had some off line discussions with 
a
few FOT folks trying  to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it 
fixed. 
I understand  there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking  to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for  some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike  Mehl


From jprettyleaf at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 24 18:21:51 2010
From: jprettyleaf at yahoo.com (Jim Prettyleaf)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:21:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
In-Reply-To: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <836857.38132.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 
Mark,
 
That is great news!  Hoping everything continues to go well during the
break-in and that you have all summer to enjoy your newly restored TR3.
 
Jim P
 

--- On Sat, 4/24/10, Mark Eginton <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com> wrote:


From: Mark Eginton <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: quill3 at aol.com, "Scott Eginton" <yachtscott at aol.com>, "Jim Prettyleaf"
<jprettyleaf at yahoo.com>, mechman54 at hotmail.com
Date: Saturday, April 24, 2010, 4:17 PM


After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 started as
if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the #@%% out of me
firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  backfiring, changing the
timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared myself for. I do not think it
even missed a beat for the entire 20 minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am
beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, Tony
Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... were talking
lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures for boring...
guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 other questions. A
hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that helped me do it right the
first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the rocker
assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely be going
back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone sees something
seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday drives in before I see
piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 18:36:12 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:36:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
References: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E6BA337A8A4E49B095ABBEDC5E2DAF1C@Bud>

Congratulations Pal!!
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <mechman54 at hotmail.com>; <quill3 at aol.com>; "Scott Eginton" 
<yachtscott at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 4:17 PM
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!


> After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
> started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the #@%% 
> out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  backfiring, 
> changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared myself for. I 
> do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 minute breakin. I'm 
> so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!
>
> First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, Tony 
> Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... were 
> talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures for 
> boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 other 
> questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that helped me 
> do it right the first time.
>
> There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
> machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
> rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
> be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone sees 
> something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday drives 
> in before I see piston tops again...
>
> Cheers from Ithaca,
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Apr 24 19:07:45 2010
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 01:07:45 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com><C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000><56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41><F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
Message-ID: <197485199-1272157649-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-66721007-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have header flanges... I purchased stahl preformed pipes and made my own.  Easy to do if motor is on engine stand. 

M
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:05:07 
To: 'Bob Kramer'<rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>; 'Spitfire Racing'<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: 'Friends of triumph'<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I'm getting pretty close to
making my own.
Mordy, do you still have the
flanges ?

Jim G

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer
[mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
3:47 PM
To: Jim Gray; 'Spitfire
Racing'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


I have been bouncing my header
off the ground in my TR4A too.
I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits
too far under the frame for
off track 
excursions. If someone makes a
better one for the application
I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable,
but if we chase perfection we
can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'"
<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph"
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
>
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl.
They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces
like
> Monza are crap and a waste
of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed
at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header
>
> I need a descent header for
an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now
is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know
anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact
Steve
> Stahl after hours. That
didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for
a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
>
______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
>
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
>
______________________________
_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
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>
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options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr
.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From stlnyc at msn.com  Sat Apr 24 19:32:32 2010
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:32:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>,
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>,
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>,
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>,
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>,
	<20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT125-W2078E30D8677DC1B531D1DDA050@phx.gbl>

From: stlnyc at msn.com
To: tony at tonydrews.com
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:30:02 -0600



Amici-

The difference between the TR-4 and TR-4A is the mounting brackets for the
lower a-arms.  The 4 has the old TR-3 mountings whereas the 4A has the TR-6
type brackets that go inside of the frame rail.  In the case of the Stahl
header for the 4, it wouldn't clear the mounting bracket.  Too much material
would have to be removed from the bracket to clear the header which
could/would prove unsafe.  Altering the header for clearance would screw up
the flow.

Fred Hodgson

> Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:42:55 -0500
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> From: tony at tonydrews.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
>
> Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header
> between a 4 and a 4A? I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
> >I'm getting pretty close to
> >making my own.
> >Mordy, do you still have the
> >flanges ?
> >
> >Jim G
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stlnyc at msn.com


From ablake2 at austin.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 19:48:30 2010
From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:48:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
	<20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>

Why would that be?  Does the block sit lower relative to the frame in a 4a?

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 5:43 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 21:30:24 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 21:30:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com><C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000><56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41><F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000><20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
	<000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>

Fred said it all. A
significant amount of material
would need to be removed from
the frame or clearance the
tube. I'll build my own before
I do that.
Jim G.

-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On Behalf Of Greg &
Alison Blake
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
7:49 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Why would that be?  Does the
block sit lower relative to
the frame in a 4a?

-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
5:43 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Just for my background
knowledge, what's the
difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm
gathering that it should be
shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim
Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>
______________________________
_________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
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st.net


From mdhado at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 06:41:54 2010
From: mdhado at comcast.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:41:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>
Message-ID: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr 25 07:57:30 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 08:57:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C080B01A2E964374BFE31345A47937B3@latitudefb1e41>

I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I 
couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see 
that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was 
able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder to 
identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the stud 
hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he 
created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have 
spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the 
block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I 
manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the 
set screws, or just left them alone.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 25 08:39:34 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:39:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <EC0D5656-9487-4642-B598-D947D9F78C0D@earthlink.net>

Questions,
Is the engine being freshly built on the stand or is the head being  
replaced with the engine in the car?
As the head was being torqued on, one of the long studs pulled up  
through its threads deep in the block?

~Steve


On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:41 AM, M&M Hado wrote:

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown  
man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not  
the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Apr 25 11:15:19 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:15:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>
	<NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001e01cae49a$e32798c0$a976ca40$@com>

I saw once that a guy had made a new thread on the top of the block and used
a short bolt instead of a long one.
Did work as far I know.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von M&M Hado
Gesendet: Sonntag, 25. April 2010 14:42
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From harmug at us.ibm.com  Sun Apr 25 13:23:40 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 15:23:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>

Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
rebuild.

Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.

The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
the stock manifold.

Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?

thanks
mike



G. Michael Harmuth


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr 25 13:32:43 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:32:43 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@
	us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>

If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / fuel 
issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it off in 
timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.

If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be able 
to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris can 
clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.

- Tony

At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
>Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
>fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>rebuild.
>
>Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
>0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
>cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
>positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
>piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
>Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
>than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>
>The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
>compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
>who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
>the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
>clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
>rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
>inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
>hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
>the stock manifold.
>
>Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>
>thanks
>mike
>
>
>
>G. Michael Harmuth
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 13:39:28 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 09:39:28 -1000
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>

I'd also look for a massive air leak.
On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:

> If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / fuel issue.
Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it off in timing by a tooth
can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.
>
> If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be able to see a
little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris can clog the passage from
the float bowl to the jet.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
>> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
>> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>> rebuild.
>>
>> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
>> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr 25 13:48:00 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:48:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
	<967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>

That's an excellent point.  On the TR-4, there are pins on the side 
of the head the that fit into the intake manifold.  If you misalign 
the manifold a bit you can end up with the bottom of the manifold 
held away from the head by the pins leaving a huge gap - easy to make 
that mistake.

- Tony

At 02:39 PM 4/25/2010, Bill Babcock wrote:
>I'd also look for a massive air leak.
>On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / 
> fuel issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it 
> off in timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.
> >
> > If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be 
> able to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris 
> can clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.
> >
> > - Tony
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
> >> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
> >> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
> >> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
> >> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> >> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> >> rebuild.
> >>
> >> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
> >> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
> >> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
> >> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 13:50:11 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:50:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
References: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <87AB633423D049A0BD9097356626114B@Bud>

if your timing is way off you won't have vaccum to suck the gas in..maybe 
your distributor is way out..
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:23 PM
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild


> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> rebuild.
>
> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
> cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
> positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
> piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
> Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
> than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>
> The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
> compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
> who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
> the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
> clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
> rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
> inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
> hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
> the stock manifold.
>
> Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>
> thanks
> mike
>
>
>
> G. Michael Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 13:52:59 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:52:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
Message-ID: <41CDC82B321C4C249183F5F81361D319@Bud>

also..if you've got a single carb it must be a stromberg...be sure that the 
rubber diaphram is seated properly(with the notch in the correct spot)..and 
be sure it is not split..if you have a split in the rubber the car might 
start and then die almost immedietly .
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>; "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild


> if your timing is way off you won't have vaccum to suck the gas in..maybe 
> your distributor is way out..
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:23 PM
> Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
>
>
>> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. 
>> Confirmed
>> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>> rebuild.
>>
>> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port 
>> (flat
>> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
>> cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
>> positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
>> piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
>> Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has 
>> less
>> than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>>
>> The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
>> compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
>> who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re 
>> fired
>> the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
>> clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
>> rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
>> inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
>> hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
>> the stock manifold.
>>
>> Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>>
>> thanks
>> mike
>>
>>
>>
>> G. Michael Harmuth
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Apr 25 14:08:06 2010
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:08:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
Message-ID: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
 
 
I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the  
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed  
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Apr 25 14:08:30 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <007b01cae4b3$14489360$3cd9ba20$@com>

Probably interference between the intake and exhaust manifold didn't let the
intake manifold seal to the head.
Perhaps the new header flange needs "adjustment"?
Been there!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 25 16:26:24 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:26:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BD4C190.1060107@bradakis.com>

When I did it for Killer, I used a "bleed screw repair kit" I found in a bin
of brass bits at a local NAPA store.  I imagine a google search might
turn up something useful.

mjb.


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 25 17:22:46 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:22:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>

Hey Steve

Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl  
with a speed bleeder on one end?

~Steve

On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!


I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove  
the
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From bownes at seiri.com  Sun Apr 25 17:43:46 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:43:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <v2pd9f7bd331004251643k4c7bbe38jdf88455108aa7f87@mail.gmail.com>

I'm sure chris kantarjiecpv will chime in, but iirc, he ran a length
of braided hose up the firewall to a fitting.



On 4/25/10, Steven Belfer <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hey Steve
>
> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl
> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>
> ~Steve
>
> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>
>
> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove
> the
> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mdhado at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 18:24:24 2010
From: mdhado at comcast.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:24:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <C080B01A2E964374BFE31345A47937B3@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>

Thanks, Bob & others who sent comments.

One idea was to get an oversize stud, at least on one end, and helicoil at
the top of the block and use a short stud.  I wouldn't want to enlarge the
hole in the head though so this would be a custom stud with different sizes
on each end.

If there were only a few threads engaged the first time around, maybe
cleaning up the bottom of the hole and chasing the treads might get enough
bite to try again.  It's in an engine stand so access is good.  He's going
to try this and if that fails, he already has found another head.  That's
probably his best choice anyway.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:58 AM
To: M&M Hado; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I
couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see
that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was
able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder to
identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the stud
hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he
created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have
spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the
block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I
manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the
set screws, or just left them alone.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message -----
From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 18:25:42 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:25:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com><F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
	<v2pd9f7bd331004251643k4c7bbe38jdf88455108aa7f87@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D8B0829E138340AC9809ACE7EC1EEE2D@Bud>

Hi Gang...if it's a racecar, the tunnel only needs 2 screws on the floor, 
and 1 bolt on the firewall to hold it in..that's what I have on my 
spitfire..it takes about 1-2 minutes to take off the tunnel..I suggest 
simplifying rather than complicating
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "Steven Belfer" <colordog.1 at earthlink.net>; <Gt6steve at aol.com>; 
<FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder


> I'm sure chris kantarjiecpv will chime in, but iirc, he ran a length
> of braided hose up the firewall to a fitting.
>
>
>
> On 4/25/10, Steven Belfer <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Hey Steve
>>
>> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl
>> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>>
>> ~Steve
>>
>> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>>
>>
>> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove
>> the
>> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
>> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 20:20:08 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:20:08 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>

I think I'd try a bottoming tap first. You'd have to make a super long one,
but that's not too hard. Maybe drop a thin pilot in and drill a little deeper.
The pilot would keep the drill from thinning out the existing threads. I have
no idea how close to breakthrough they took these holes at the factory, but I
bet there's some kind of margin, and I'm not sure what the problem would be
with breaking through anyway. If you could pick up a half inch of thread room
you'd be in pretty good shape. Perhaps if you DID drill through you could
helicoil from the inside. Or just get a good block and have at it.

On Apr 25, 2010, at 2:24 PM, M&M Hado wrote:

> Thanks, Bob & others who sent comments.
>
> One idea was to get an oversize stud, at least on one end, and helicoil at
> the top of the block and use a short stud.  I wouldn't want to enlarge the
> hole in the head though so this would be a custom stud with different sizes
> on each end.
>
> If there were only a few threads engaged the first time around, maybe
> cleaning up the bottom of the hole and chasing the treads might get enough
> bite to try again.  It's in an engine stand so access is good.  He's going
> to try this and if that fails, he already has found another head.  That's
> probably his best choice anyway.
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:58 AM
> To: M&M Hado; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
>
>
> I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I
> couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see
> that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was
> able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder
to
> identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the
stud
> hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he
> created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have
> spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the
> block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I
> manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the
> set screws, or just left them alone.
>
> Bob Kramer
> Volente, TX
>
> Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
> excellence.
> Vince Lombardi
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
> Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
>
>
>> A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 25 20:29:05 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:29:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <976191.24797.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Well it sure is looking like it was the water pump.  Also the header could
could have contributed to the problem.   Thanks to Greg Hilyer (lots of phone
conversations) and Tony Drews for the extra help.   Thanks to all the FOT
folks who pointed out to look at the water pump.  I will get it back running
next weekend and we will see.  At least I am getting to know my way around the
TR.  I had to laugh at my driveway last weekend.  A TR4 a Fiero and a 62
Corvair Greenbrier van.  We are the wierd car folks in the neighbor hood.
Mike




________________________________
From: Mike Mehl
<mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri,
April 23, 2010 6:28:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
Well;
I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.  I did not build the
engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike Mehl
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 25 20:33:24 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:33:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <11ca01cae4e8$d8c400f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I think I'd try a bottoming tap first. You'd have to make a 
> super long one,
> but that's not too hard. 

There are tap extensions that should fit; or I've had pretty good luck
finding a 1/4" drive socket that will work.  (All those x/32 sizes had to be
good for something!)

If that doesn't work, my approach would be to just Helicoil & be done with
it.

Or find another block.

Randall


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Sun Apr 25 20:56:58 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:56:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>

I have no opinion on this and no experience with this product... but I 
thought I'd throw it in the mix for discussion....  Follow link...  
--Justin 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF



M&M Hado wrote:

>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sun Apr 25 21:00:54 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:00:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
	<967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
	<20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cae4ec$b10637f0$1312a7d0$@com>

Ryan can also attest to the problem caused when the intake manifold on the
TR4 is not seated on the pins properly!  If you've got SU's you should be
able to see the pistons moving up and down quite a bit as you are cranking
it with the ignition shut off.  If not, you've got a massive intake leak
someplace.  Now we check to see if the pistons on the SU's are moving up and
down after we have the manifolds off to make sure we don't have that
problem.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 2:48 PM
To: Bill Babcock
Cc: fot at autox.team.net; George Harmuth
Subject: Re: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild

That's an excellent point.  On the TR-4, there are pins on the side 
of the head the that fit into the intake manifold.  If you misalign 
the manifold a bit you can end up with the bottom of the manifold 
held away from the head by the pins leaving a huge gap - easy to make 
that mistake.

- Tony

At 02:39 PM 4/25/2010, Bill Babcock wrote:
>I'd also look for a massive air leak.
>On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / 
> fuel issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it 
> off in timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start
too.
> >
> > If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be 
> able to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris 
> can clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.
> >
> > - Tony
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
> >> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild
of
> >> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The
car
> >> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own.
Confirmed
> >> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> >> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> >> rebuild.
> >>
> >> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port
(flat
> >> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check,
putting
> >> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed
the
> >> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sun Apr 25 21:04:04 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:04:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>

Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a repaired stud.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Justin Wagner
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:57 PM
To: M&M Hado
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block

I have no opinion on this and no experience with this product... but I 
thought I'd throw it in the mix for discussion....  Follow link...  
--Justin 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF



M&M Hado wrote:

>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com
_______________________________________________
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr 25 21:18:12 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 23:18:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4BD505F4.9030204@bright.net>

List, we make a remote bleeder set up for most Brit cars. Ted


Steven Belfer wrote:
> Hey Steve
>
> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl 
> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>
> ~Steve
>
> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>
>
> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the
> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Sun Apr 25 21:36:25 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:36:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9E294433479248EC8BF13381E7AB6675@jrg>

Whatever line you ran up from the slave would need an end with the proper
taper fitting to "terminate" the line.   Maybe not too tough.. But if Ted S
has a setup, maybe it's simpler (aka cheaper) than figuring your own?

On my Spitfire(s) I cheat and use the "2x4" bleeding method.  A 2x4 to push
the clutch pedal to the floor.   Let it sit a day or 4 and that's usually
enough to get the air out of the line.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfire(s) 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Belfer
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 6:23 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder

Hey Steve

Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl with
a speed bleeder on one end?

~Steve

On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!


I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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No virus found in this incoming message.
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From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 21:42:33 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:42:33 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
	<000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
Message-ID: <13451F39-C4BE-460C-9C77-79AC39D72130@bnj.com>

Truth be told, you could probably clean the hole out really good, coat the
stud liberally with JB weld, pump the hole full and call it good. It would
probably hold until the heat death of the universe.

On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:04 PM, Tim Murphy wrote:

> Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a repaired stud.
>
> Tim


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 26 00:17:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 23:17:39 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net><4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
	<000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
Message-ID: <11f501cae508$2c8d3070$0301a8c0@randall>

> Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a 
> repaired stud.

Doesn't seem likely that it would be much  stronger with a stud than with a
bolt ... the figures in the file Justin linked to say about 16 ftlb for a
1/2" bolt.

I've had much the same experience with JB Weld.  It's marvelous stuff, but
it's strength is closer to hard plastic than steel.

Randall


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 08:29:23 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:29:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
Message-ID: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
list?

Thanks,

Bob Adams


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Mon Apr 26 08:35:46 2010
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:35:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon Apr 26 09:04:49 2010
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:04:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to move
them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They gave
me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them. I'm OK with
copying as long as it's not for sale as I will someday put the 6 or so I have
left on eBay. I think I sold them for $15.00 to recover the cost of having
them moved to VHS. Once I got my money covered I lost momentum and technology
moved on.

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
Ziglar



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Adams
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 9:29 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
list?

Thanks,

Bob Adams
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From herald948 at aol.com  Mon Apr 26 09:29:05 2010
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:29:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <8CCB36C57530DC9-20A4-174ED@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com>

 Do you mean casting number as in a number literally cast into the block, or
is it a stamped serial number?

Normally, the "FE" prefix would indicate an "emissions controlled" Spitfire
Mk3 1296 engine.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2010 10:35 am
Subject: [Fot] FE30830


Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/herald948 at aol.com


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 26 09:31:26 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:31:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>

> I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
> tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
move
> them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
gave
> me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.



> Bob Kramer


I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.



But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.



The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.



Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.



John H.


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon Apr 26 09:35:21 2010
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:35:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Your right, it was Cumberland. The Marlboro tape was very "Spritish".

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
Ziglar

________________________________
From: John Herrera [mailto:jrherrera90 at hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:31 AM
To: Kramer, Robert; Bob Adams; Friends of Triumph
Subject: RE: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

> I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
> tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
move
> them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
gave
> me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.

> Bob Kramer

I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.

But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.

The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.

Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.

John H.


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 26 09:43:09 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:43:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <497947.54903.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just a WAG .... But it sounds like a 69ish spit 3 to me ..


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/26/10, Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:


From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 9:35 AM


Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 09:54:51 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:54:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <o2w673993c51004260854ide1b422q386a666409148a97@mail.gmail.com>

Just found the rest of the posts in the archive. Case of mistaken identity.
Thanks for the corrections.

Bob

On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 11:35 AM, Kramer, Robert
<RKramer at rdoequipment.com>wrote:

>  Your right, it was Cumberland. The Marlboro tape was very Spritish.
>
>
>
> Bob Kramer
>
> Sales Manager
>
> RDO Equipment Company
>
> 16415 N. IH 35
>
> Pflugerville, TX 78660
>
> 512-272-4141
>
> *It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
> Ziglar*
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* John Herrera [mailto:jrherrera90 at hotmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 10:31 AM
> *To:* Kramer, Robert; Bob Adams; Friends of Triumph
> *Subject:* RE: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT
> archives
>
>
>
> > I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the
> VHS
> > tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
> move
> > them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
> gave
> > me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.
>
> > Bob Kramer
>
> I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.
>
> But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
> tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.
>
> The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
> There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.
>
> Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.
>
> John H.


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Mon Apr 26 10:02:44 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:02:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>

Buzz lives in south Florida and I have run into him a couple of times at Moroso and Sebring. He was racing an RX7. In the early days he briefly raced an early Sunbeam and then on to TR's and Toyota's. I remember him well. He owned a TR/Toyota dealership in Glenside, PA while I was a general manager at a competing dearlership down the road, Maginnis Imported Cars (TR, Jaguar, Rover, MG), in Horsham, PA., circa early 1980's.

Bob
1957 TR3

 
---- Bob Adams <adams910 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
> Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
> list?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob Adams
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 10:08:30 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
Message-ID: <q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

He's racing a RX-8 in Improved Touring R now. It's a blue and yellow car.
Neat little fact; The Toyota he raced (and Dick Stockton built) in IMSA was
the first Toyota to win a professional event in North America.

On a different note, I was looking for video from this past SCCA VIR
National, and found these
http://www.youtube.com/user/pylon256#p/u/0/mYfHZvnv9bo . They should be of
interest to some of you.


Thanks,

Bob Adams


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Apr 26 10:24:57 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 18:24:57 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
	<q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c001cae55d$05ba11c0$112e3540$@com>

Be you might would like to have a look on this:
http://www.tr4-racing.de/pic/buzz/Index.html

Cheers
Chris


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bob Adams
Gesendet: Montag, 26. April 2010 18:09
An: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

Bob,

He's racing a RX-8 in Improved Touring R now. It's a blue and yellow car.
Neat little fact; The Toyota he raced (and Dick Stockton built) in IMSA was
the first Toyota to win a professional event in North America.

On a different note, I was looking for video from this past SCCA VIR
National, and found these
http://www.youtube.com/user/pylon256#p/u/0/mYfHZvnv9bo . They should be of
interest to some of you.


Thanks,

Bob Adams
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon Apr 26 17:15:21 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4BD61E89.9020408@charter.net>

Thanks to all for the advice on fixing the rear axle clunk in the car. 
The car should show up in my driveway sometime this week. We'll see how 
much of a job it is.
I have repaired many of these but on frame off restorations.

Just made reservations at the Jekyll club resort hotel. See you at VTR

Glenn

Glenn Franco wrote:
> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired 
> cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still 
> on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the 
> best method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to 
> repair it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Tue Apr 27 08:52:05 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:52:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild-fixed
Message-ID: <OF9B354FFE.1DF8B0A7-ON85257712.00512804-85257712.0051AC40@us.ibm.com>

I found a clogged choke port inside the carb (single semi-smog Stromberg
1.5"). If I hadn't just done a rebuild and suspected the worse I would have
looked closer at the carb. I have the engine running and ready for a break
in trip this weekend.

 Thanks all the helpful tips and pointers.

mike

G. Michael Harmuth

assorted Spitfires and a  GT6


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Apr 27 15:11:20 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:11:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed
Message-ID: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Can someout out there tell me what the thread sizes are for the following
components on a spitfire...my car is 900 miles away so I don't have easy
access...



Inner Tie rod thread to ball joint

bolt for the Radius rod attachment to the chassis bracket or to the vertical
link

boltB through the spring at the top of the vertical link



aaron


From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Tue Apr 27 17:52:01 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:52:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed
In-Reply-To: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F15DF99F19904F9B966177501DD1B90A@jrg>

Aaron,

Radius arm to pivot brackets and links-   3/8"x24 tpi x 2 1/4" bolt
Spring to vertical link   7/16"x20 bolt approx 3" (factory manual didn't
list length)
Inner Tie Rod to outer tie rod thread 1/2x20 thread


HTH


Jim
Dallas

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of fpspitfire at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 4:11 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed

Can someout out there tell me what the thread sizes are for the following
components on a spitfire...my car is 900 miles away so I don't have easy
access...



Inner Tie rod thread to ball joint

bolt for the Radius rod attachment to the chassis bracket or to the vertical
link

boltB through the spring at the top of the vertical link



aaron
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jgambony at gcecisp.com



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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13:27:00


From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr 28 23:20:09 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 22:20:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 intake flanges
Message-ID: <BC06BFEDB29A42A9AF0014B4EE173EF5@hpa1477c>

Does anyone make a steel intake flange for the TR3/4 engine?

 

I'm playing around with an induction system and don't have the capability to
weld aluminum, especially the thickness of the OEM flange, so I'd like to
find a steel flange to use, at least until I've proven it out.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jack


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Apr 29 07:55:45 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 09:55:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hoosier C9000 SliX
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004290947560.5546@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

If anyone out there is running the "new design" C9000 (I think that's what 
they're called) Hoosier bias-ply slicks, I'd be most interested in sharing 
setup information.

I put a set of the previous style Hossier slicks on a couple years ago, 
and I felt like my times were off by a second or so from when I ran 
Goodyear bias slicks (cantelever).

My "consultant" thinks I should switch to radial slicks. Umm, no. That 
means buying 8 10" wide rims. I already have a stack of 7"... plus the 
settings are totally different than bias so I'd have to buy drys and 
rains...

My big problem is that the input is very vague and you have to more or 
less slide the car everywhere. I lose tons of times getting the car to 
take a set. The GY's were INSTANT when you turned in. No slidey thing 
going on at all unless you were very, very far out of shape.

My brakes suck too, perhaps that's the bigger part of the equation and 
I'll look into that. But these tires are not to my liking at the present.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Apr 29 09:42:47 2010
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:42:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
Message-ID: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello all, 
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
Thanks, 
Dave H. 


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 29 10:37:46 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100429163746.NRPBT.243571.root@cdptpa-web20-z02>

I think you may find the inside edge of the spring pan resting against the spring tower. If that is the case, TR6 spring pans cure the problem since they are a different shape at the back edge.

Bob

---- davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Hello all, 
> I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
> Thanks, 
> Dave H. 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu Apr 29 11:04:26 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:04:26 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001b01cae7be$06c42200$144c6600$@com>

If you run some negative camber you get to the limit of the upper ball joint
movement.
I did fit a 8mm rubber on the bumpers to avoid stressing the ball joint.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von davehogye
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 29. April 2010 17:43
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue

Hello all,
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my
TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring
pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball
joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball
joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the
suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess
that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave H.
_______________________________________________
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 29 11:50:07 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:50:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <856042.19179.qm@web81708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Did you also change the TR3 trunnions to those of the TR4 ( 3degrees of caster)?

Dennis


Hello all, 
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
Thanks, 
Dave H. 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu Apr 29 13:46:14 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:46:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4BD9E206.2050606@bright.net>

We will beat Carlisle. Spaces E63 & E64. If you have something you need 
for me to bring out, please let me know.Save on shipping - especially if 
a large item(s). Will be there Thursday afternoon through late Saturday 
afternoon. Will have steelbraid hoses, suspension components, our gear 
reduction starters and much more. Please come by and say hello. Thanks,Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 29 14:56:12 2010
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:56:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hoosier C9000 SliX
Message-ID: <666573.14040.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I too have tried the Hoosiers slicks several times and I have found that I was just as fast on their dot tires as I was on their slicks that were larger. I don't know what the deal was on that. Inhave always liked the GY slicks better.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 29, 2010, at 8:55 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

Hi,

If anyone out there is running the "new design" C9000 (I think that's what they're called) Hoosier bias-ply slicks, I'd be most interested in sharing setup information.

I put a set of the previous style Hossier slicks on a couple years ago, and I felt like my times were off by a second or so from when I ran Goodyear bias slicks (cantelever).

My "consultant" thinks I should switch to radial slicks. Umm, no. That means buying 8 10" wide rims. I already have a stack of 7"... plus the settings are totally different than bias so I'd have to buy drys and rains...

My big problem is that the input is very vague and you have to more or less slide the car everywhere. I lose tons of times getting the car to take a set. The GY's were INSTANT when you turned in. No slidey thing going on at all unless you were very, very far out of shape.

My brakes suck too, perhaps that's the bigger part of the equation and I'll look into that. But these tires are not to my liking at the present.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 29 21:51:33 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:51:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
Message-ID: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

AMICI - sorry to bomb the list

Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
Thanks
Dennis DeLap here in Illinois


From dave at microworks.net  Fri Apr 30 00:12:55 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 23:12:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>

Austin America oddity.

Two weekends ago was the BEAT Rally.  One of the prizes they give each 
year is for the most desirable car.  There are two Judges.  One whom 
drives a car from the "Continent" and the other Judge drives a car from 
the "Isles".  They are supposed to pick the car (about 150 to choose 
from) that they like the best.  The critera is simple.

"If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the 
ignition which car would you take."

This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America (page 2, 
right side row 3 near the E-Type, Bentley, A-H 3000)  .  It was a nice 
example no doubt but....

Look over the Photo Gallery of cars that were on the trip and tell me if 
it would have been your choice too.

http://www.beataz.com

Here is the Gallery of the cars on the road.  You can select the other 
2010 Photo Sections (and previous years) from the Galleries menu

FYI: I was driving the 63k original miles 1975 Maserati Merak shown on 
photo page 4 on the bottom left near the red Ferrari Daytona, black 
Porsche 935, yellow Lamborghini Gallardo, etc...

On 4/29/2010 8:51 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> AMICI - sorry to bomb the list
>
> Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
> ...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
> Thanks
> Dennis DeLap here in Illinois


From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Apr 30 10:22:52 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:22:52 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BDB03DC.9060107@dfn.com>

Dennis DeLap wrote:
> AMICI - sorry to bomb the list
>
> Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
> ...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
>   

My ex-wife had an MG1100 (pretty much same-same), and before we were 
married, that was my very first engine rebuild, in which I think I 
forgot to put in the thrust washers, because, afterwards, it pumped oil 
out the rear main seal every time it was clutched. :)


Much later, I worked at a Toyota dealership in Florida, the service 
manager of which was an irascible fellow by the name of Bill Campbell, 
who once had a BMC-VW-Porsche dealership of his own, but had eventually 
lost it because he was paying more attention to his Super Vee racing 
than to business. He once said that BMC had arranged a mandatory 
motivational sales meeting for the Southeast region because sales 
weren't going well.  Professional marketing motivators were hired, and 
all weekend, the assembled were pummeled with the theme, "RMA," or,  
"Right Mental Attitude."  Finally, weary of this, because they all knew 
why sales were bad (the lousy reputation of the car in question), when 
the motivator shouted at them, "what does RMA stand for?!,"  in unison, 
they shouted back, "REPAIR MY AMERICA!"


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri Apr 30 11:23:18 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:23:18 -0600
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS12FA8D85454269A349EB67B7000@phx.gbl>

Recently I had to swap out my water temp gauge. I have heard that the sending
unit that came with it needs to be in place for accurate readings. I've been
seeing a higher than usual reading is the reason for my question. The existing
tapped port is a #6 Brit parallel thread according to my local Parker Store
rep. instead of 3/8x18 pipe thread.
thanks in advance,

Kevin


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 30 11:50:29 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>
Message-ID: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>

> "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> ignition which car would you take."
> 
> This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America

Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>

I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
just!

-- Randall 


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Apr 30 13:22:15 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 15:22:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100430192215.0863H.261209.root@cdptpa-web26-z01>

I had one in automatic where the transmission shared oil with the engine. Not a bad ride.

Bob
57TR3
---- Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> > "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> > ignition which car would you take."
> > 
> > This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America
> 
> Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>
> 
> I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
> work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
> just!
> 
> -- Randall 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Fri Apr 30 13:22:29 2010
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:22:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <563020.87416.qm@web81206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I do remember years ago, at Roebling Road, Jack Woerle was running either an
MG 1100 or an Austin America. Ted S. and I were co-driving an 1147 Spitty, and
Jack was quite fast and a bear to get around in the turns when he was up on
two wheels. Very impressive from behind. Finally passed him on the front
straight.
Great fun!
-Ed-

--- On Fri, 4/30/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:


From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Austin America question
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 12:50 PM


> "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> ignition which car would you take."
>
> This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America

Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>

I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
just!

-- Randall
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Apr 30 14:22:44 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:22:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question
References: <SNT123-DS12FA8D85454269A349EB67B7000@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CF66444D552249AD96B46C4F4C966FFD@Bud>

Hi Kevin..borrow a temperature gun and shoot it at the area where the 
sending unit goes into the radiator...see if the #s match..
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KEVIN LYNCH" <klynch_6 at msn.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question


> Recently I had to swap out my water temp gauge. I have heard that the 
> sending
> unit that came with it needs to be in place for accurate readings. I've 
> been
> seeing a higher than usual reading is the reason for my question. The 
> existing
> tapped port is a #6 Brit parallel thread according to my local Parker 
> Store
> rep. instead of 3/8x18 pipe thread.
> thanks in advance,
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Apr  1 18:15:08 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:15:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 weight distribution?
Message-ID: <4BB5370C.5070108@blacksburg.net>

I'm doing some front suspension ground clearance calculations.  Does 
anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of a stock TR4?

tia

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Apr  1 18:25:14 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Message-ID: <4BB5396A.9050207@blacksburg.net>

A friend has a newly rebuilt, warmed-over TR4 he's installing in his 
TR3.  The engine builder installed a Mallory dual point distributor but 
provided no instructions.  Does anyone have the setup instructions for 
setting the initial timing and how to set the second set of points?

tia, again

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Thu Apr  1 20:39:45 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:39:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Message-ID: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Thu Apr  1 20:49:35 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 02:49:35 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Message-ID: <20100401.224935.29502.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

Instructions are available at:
http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/Single_Dual_point.pdf

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Settings for a dual point Mallory on a "warm" TR4?
Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:25:14 -0400

A friend has a newly rebuilt, warmed-over TR4 he's installing in his
TR3.  The engine builder installed a Mallory dual point distributor but
provided no instructions.  Does anyone have the setup instructions for
setting the initial timing and how to set the second set of points?

tia, again

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
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From tpettenati at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  2 08:09:14 2010
From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 07:09:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <624871.19678.qm@web180315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Jim,

The PO of my spit told me of a similar problem he had with the car.  He
went through the same attempted fixes, balancing the tires, replacing the
u-joints, having the driveshaft balanced.  The final cure was replacing the
driveshaft.  I'm not positive but I think the new shaft is fixed length, where
as the old one was a slip joint.  I'll take a look under the car tonight and
let you know for sure.

My old Haynes manual shows both types of driveshaft,
the 'frictionless'  (slip joint) and the solid propeller shaft.  I'm not sure
I understand the need for a slip joint with a fixed rear diff.  Here is what
is listed for lengths of the different shafts.  Just in case you decide to try
a fixed length shaft.

BRD solid            41.62" (105.72 cm)
BRD
frictionless    41.37" (105.09 cm)
BRD frictionless    38.00" (96.52 cm)
(w/
overdrive)   

Cheers,
Tim

----- Original Message ----
From: Norlin
Engineering <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu,
April 1, 2010 7:39:45 PM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the
chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it
sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't
really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's
in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing
the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost
undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they
suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers
were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've
searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The
factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of
death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old
shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tpettenati at yahoo.com


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Fri Apr  2 10:15:59 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:15:59 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Message-ID: <20100402.121559.11475.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com>

When I raced a Spit, I had a similar issue.  Checked driveshaft balance and
still had the problem.  I do not recall if it was a slip joint driveshaft?  My
car had a lot of rear camber and I just attributed the vibration to the axle
u-joints running at such an angle.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Norlin Engineering" <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:39:45 -0700

Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.



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From robertten1 at aol.com  Fri Apr  2 12:44:59 2010
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:44:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <8CCA0ABBB423039-1BF4-9C10@webmail-m082.sysops.aol.com>

 Jim -

I just rebuilt my driveshaft last year and no the little barrle bearings
inside the slider joint are not to be found.  I had to order longer ones and
cut them down on an EDM machine, radius and polish the ends.  The size is
3/16" diameter by 3/16" long and note the length cannot vary more than +/-
.0005" or you will run into a problem of sliding it all back together.  New
U-Joints and the hole assembly balanced and it looks and runs like new.  I'll
admit I haven't had a chance to make a long run at high rpm's but so far it is
a vast improvement from before the work.

I did check industrial supply shops, industrial bearing suppliers and several
bearing specialty repair shops.  All said the same thing ... order larger and
have them modified to size.

Best of luck,
Bob T.
'64 Spit GT autocrosser








-----Original Message-----
From: Norlin Engineering <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 1, 2010 10:39 pm
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations


Friends:

Still having vibration issues with the driveshaft.  Showed up on the chassis
dyno and at the track.  I've had the rear wheels rebalanced, so it sort of
points to the driveline.  Starts around 6 grand in 4th and doesn't really
get worse with speed.

The driveline repair shop and I both feel it's in the slip joint.  I noticed
some radial play in the joint before removing the shaft from the car to take
it into the shop.  Once removed, it's almost undetectable.

The shop has not disassembled the slip joint yet, but they suspect that the
shaft was disassembled at one time and some of the rollers were left out
when it was reassembled.

Which brings me to my question.  I've searched the regular parts sites and
no one even mentions these rollers.  The factory manual from the '60's says
do not disassemble this part on pain of death - more or less.

Does any one have any of these rollers from an old shaft, or know where they
might be sourced?

Thanks all

Jim Norlin

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From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sat Apr  3 09:48:54 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 08:48:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

First off, thanks to all that responded - I never cease to be amazed by the
collective knowledge of this group.

I'll let you know what I decide to do after talking with the owner of the
driveline company on Monday.  He called me Thursday and we talked for over
20 minutes about my driveline.  He's got a personal interest in old race
cars and wants to make this totally right.  It was his opinion that if we
could properly rebuild the original type joint, it would be superior to a
modern spline joint - obviously one man's opinion, but he has been in the
business for a long time.  Anyway, his conversation with me is what started
me down this path.

Thanks again - more later.

Jim


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr  3 20:39:55 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 22:39:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
Message-ID: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>

My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it 
is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
daily driver...

Happy Easter for those who celebrate...

M


From billb at bnj.com  Sat Apr  3 21:31:52 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 17:31:52 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>

Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you like.
Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any more.
On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. How
serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday unless
I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone
thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love
GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling
clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sat Apr  3 21:57:46 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 20:57:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1D0DB9D4CA4D4978B23B58589E48EE59@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

My engine builder provides me with Joe Gibbs break in oil.  Typically run it
for the first race weekend before switching to Redline.  

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 7:40 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it 
is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
daily driver...

Happy Easter for those who celebrate...

M

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr  3 22:52:10 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 23:52:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>

Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local 
stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they 
use for ZDDP).  I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but 
it should be fine without.  The other recommendations are good to but 
probably not locally available.

I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic 
version of the same.  Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs 
or Royal Purple.

Tony Drews

At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
>My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil 
>but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know 
>what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the 
>neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the 
>internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 
>wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought 
>were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I 
>love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on 
>it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
>Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
>M


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Sun Apr  4 06:57:34 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:57:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race weekend.B  If
it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use Rotella-T then switch it out
to VR-1.



After the first weekend I switch to Redline.



aaron



#87 HP Spitfire 1500

Southern Illinois Region SCCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil

Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
use for ZDDP). B I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
it should be fine without. B The other recommendations are good to but
probably not locally available.

I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
version of the same. B Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
or Royal Purple.

Tony Drews

At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
>My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
>but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
>what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
>neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
>internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
>wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
>were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
>love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
>it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>
>Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
>M

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr  4 07:17:49 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:17:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <402DA5FC6C4D4691BEB1AC6517B31532@latitudefb1e41>

I use Valvoline VR1 like Tony, but I add the Comp cams additive instead. 
FWIW, my local speed shop carries Joe Gibbs break-in oil, yours may too. I 
work for a John Deere dealership and we carry it too but I haven't tried it 
as it is formulated for diesels. It may very well be suitable.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday 
> unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would 
> just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the 
> additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 
> 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with 
> almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily 
> driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr  4 07:57:57 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 08:57:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20100404055151.81FF9187643@autox.team.net>
	<569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100404145744.D417B187662@autox.team.net>

Supposedly, Rotella T has dropped the ZDDP amount in the last couple of years.

- Tony

At 07:57 AM 4/4/2010, fpspitfire at comcast.net wrote:

>I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race 
>weekend.  If it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use 
>Rotella-T then switch it out to VR-1.
>
>
>
>After the first weekend I switch to Redline.
>
>
>
>aaron
>
>
>
>#87 HP Spitfire 1500
>
>Southern Illinois Region SCCA
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
>Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
>
>Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
>stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
>use for ZDDP).  I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
>it should be fine without.  The other recommendations are good to but
>probably not locally available.
>
>I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
>version of the same.  Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
>or Royal Purple.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
> >My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
> >but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
> >what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
> >neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
> >internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
> >wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
> >were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
> >love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
> >it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
> >
> >Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
> >
> >M
>
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Apr  4 08:47:03 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 10:47:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4BB8A667.7030507@blacksburg.net>

On 4/3/2010 10:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but 
> I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what 
> it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors 
> Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to 
> my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had 
> "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought were necessary as 
> the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of 
> great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean 
> inside - original turbo - daily driver...
Mark, I hear ya about wanting to irritate the neighbors, but be sure to 
follow Isky's advice about the oil.  My cam came with their sheet 
recommending Brad Penn, (now going from memory: Valvoline VR-1 
"non-racing" oil, then some grade of Pennzoil?).  Brad Penn is available 
from www.cdoc.com, probably others too.  Valvoline VR-1 (be careful, 
ISTR that there are 2 VR-1 formulations; the one you want says "not for 
street use") which was available at my local Napa store.  If you have 
shops around which cater to the roundy-round crowd, or dragster-types, 
they will surely stock it.  If all else fails and you really want to 
fire it up PDQ, a can of extra ZDDP added to your favorite non-synthetic 
should do fine.  FWIW, a local shop that caters to the straight-line 
crowd wanted $9 for a can of the ZDDP.
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
Thanks, and Happy Easter to you.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From tlizzard at msn.com  Sun Apr  4 09:30:37 2010
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:30:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>

Brad Penn does indeed make a break in oil.

When last I spoke to one of their tech people he said to use it for the
initial start up/ring seating only, then dump it.

Terry Stetler.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Babcock<mailto:billb at bnj.com>
  To: Mark Eginton<mailto:markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 11:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


  Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you
like.
  Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
  used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any
more.
  On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

  > My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
  can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is.
How
  serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday
unless
  I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
  Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives
everyone
  thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
love
  GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it
sparkling
  clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
  >
  > Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
  >
  > M
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>

  _______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr  4 09:33:57 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 10:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
  <4BB8A667.7030507@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <F2057E46325740B9B754E1C4033E329E@latitudefb1e41>

The on the shelf VR1 has the ZDDP again. I think oil manufacturers realized 
that modern cars, which would have had emmission components compromised by 
ZDDP, just don't call for straight weight 30,40 and 50 and 20w50 grades. 
When their customers learned about what the lack of ZDDP could/would do to 
flat tappet cams their sales hit the skids as we looked for other oils, so 
they eventually put the ZDDP back in. Check out the shelves and the labels. 
The VR1 bottles often have stickers on them pointing to the fact that they 
put is back. I'm pretty sure that the MSDS sheets online have also been 
updated with this info. For $3.99 a bottle VR1 is a bargain.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> On 4/3/2010 10:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
>> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
>> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
>> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or 
>> Monday unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device 
>> I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of 
>> the additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT 
>> thread 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo 
>> SAAB with almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - 
>> daily driver...
> Mark, I hear ya about wanting to irritate the neighbors, but be sure to 
> follow Isky's advice about the oil.  My cam came with their sheet 
> recommending Brad Penn, (now going from memory: Valvoline VR-1 
> "non-racing" oil, then some grade of Pennzoil?).  Brad Penn is available 
> from www.cdoc.com, probably others too.  Valvoline VR-1 (be careful, ISTR 
> that there are 2 VR-1 formulations; the one you want says "not for street 
> use") which was available at my local Napa store.  If you have shops 
> around which cater to the roundy-round crowd, or dragster-types, they will 
> surely stock it.  If all else fails and you really want to fire it up PDQ, 
> a can of extra ZDDP added to your favorite non-synthetic should do fine. 
> FWIW, a local shop that caters to the straight-line crowd wanted $9 for a 
> can of the ZDDP.
>>
>> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>>
> Thanks, and Happy Easter to you.
>
> jim
>
> -- 
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Sun Apr  4 12:47:59 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:47:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
Message-ID: <FF29958E3BFE4D7A843CE162344FD1A6@desktop>

I've just purchased 2 cases of this stuff.
Happy Easter
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgRWiRUI-Ps


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr  4 14:23:45 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:23:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
References: <FF29958E3BFE4D7A843CE162344FD1A6@desktop>
Message-ID: <E278FA0232A340C2B187AA9364DF64B3@Bud>

Thanks Charly...I loved it...Happy Easter..Racer Bud spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 11:47 AM
Subject: [Fot] YouTube - Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6


> I've just purchased 2 cases of this stuff.
> Happy Easter
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
>
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgRWiRUI-Ps
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr  4 15:52:26 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 17:52:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
	<A9CD3DC9-7AA3-469C-828B-3082EB1307EB@bnj.com>
	<BAY116-DS155A3BC58AB65EF900823CC31A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4BB90A1A.6070002@bright.net>

Terry, right you are.  Also, do not switch immediately to synthetic. 
Even though they start and run new Corvette's on Mobil 1, we cannot get 
the correct bore finish that is on modern engines. Ted


Terry Stetler wrote:
> Brad Penn does indeed make a break in oil.
>
> When last I spoke to one of their tech people he said to use it for the
> initial start up/ring seating only, then dump it.
>
> Terry Stetler.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Bill Babcock<mailto:billb at bnj.com>
>   To: Mark Eginton<mailto:markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
>   Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 11:31 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
>
>
>   Use a non synthetic with ZDDP. Break it in, dump the oil, use what you
> like.
>   Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple make break in oils, I thin Brad Penn does to. I
>   used to use cheap oil with the GMC ZDDP additive, but can't find it any
> more.
>   On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:39 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:
>
>   > My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I
>   can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is.
> How
>   serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday
> unless
>   I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would just run
>   Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives
> everyone
>   thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
> love
>   GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on it
> sparkling
>   clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
>   >
>   > Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>   >
>   > M
>   >
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>   > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>   > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
> /mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>
>
>   _______________________________________________
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>
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From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Apr  4 18:44:46 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 20:44:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <569422929.11490121270385854844.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <015d01cad459$31637560$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, they have a 2.5 gallon can of Rotella
T on sale for $25. $2.50 per quart is pretty reasonable for that oil.
  They also have their own in-house brand called Traveller for $20 for the
same 2.5 gallon can. Decent oil too.
  No financial interest.
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: <fpspitfire at comcast.net>
  To: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
  Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil


  > I'm a VR-1 break-in guy as well if I'm going to run the race weekend.B
If
  > it's a new cam that needs to be broken in I use Rotella-T then switch it
out
  > to VR-1.
  >
  >
  >
  > After the first weekend I switch to Redline.
  >
  >
  >
  > aaron
  >
  >
  >
  > #87 HP Spitfire 1500
  >
  > Southern Illinois Region SCCA
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
  > To: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>, fot at autox.team.net
  > Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 12:52:10 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
  > Subject: Re: [Fot] Break-in Oil
  >
  > Valvoline VR-1 "Racing Oil", non-synthetic is available at many local
  > stores and has plenty of ZDDP (0.12 percent or whatever measure they
  > use for ZDDP). B I dump a little GM EOS in too for extra measure but
  > it should be fine without. B The other recommendations are good to but
  > probably not locally available.
  >
  > I run one weekend with the VR-1 and then switch to the synthetic
  > version of the same. B Half the price or less of Redline or Joe Gibbs
  > or Royal Purple.
  >
  > Tony Drews
  >
  > At 09:39 PM 4/3/2010, Mark Eginton wrote:
  > >My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil
  > >but I can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know
  > >what it is. How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the
  > >neighbors Sunday or Monday unless I have to order oil on the
  > >internet. Left to my own device I would just run Castrol GTX 75k (30
  > >wt) which had "almost" as much of the additives everyone thought
  > >were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 12-18 mos ago) and I
  > >love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with almost 200k on
  > >it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily driver...
  > >
  > >Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
  > >
  > >M
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Sun Apr  4 19:18:20 2010
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 20:18:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil
References: <4BB7FBFB.60406@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <99AE3A55CEEC46AD880C950563CEF88A@rocky>

Everybody's talking brand names, which is fine.

The concept is this -- synthetics are super but are so efficient they do not 
really permit good seating of things like rings, cams, etc. So you use what 
my engine builder calls "mineral oil" (the stuff they pump out of the 
ground) at first. Only takes about one good session -- a race practice, a 
full autocross, etc. Then drain it and put in the synthetic.

When I get a new (rebuilt) engine, I use Valvoline VR1 to start, then go to 
Valvoline Synpower.

Actually, lately I have my engine builder take it to the dyno and tune it 
there, which also works as the break-in. Then the engine delivered to me is 
already broken in and I go straight to the synthetic.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Break-in Oil


> My new Isky grind cam came with a flyer recommending break-in oil but I 
> can't seem to find it anywhere, nor does any one seem to know what it is. 
> How serious is this? I'm hoping to irritate the neighbors Sunday or Monday 
> unless I have to order oil on the internet. Left to my own device I would 
> just run Castrol GTX 75k (30 wt) which had "almost" as much of the 
> additives everyone thought were necessary as the best (long FOT thread 
> 12-18 mos ago) and I love GTX. Decades of great luck; e.g. turbo SAAB with 
> almost 200k on it sparkling clean inside - original turbo - daily 
> driver...
>
> Happy Easter for those who celebrate...
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Sun Apr  4 19:27:25 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 19:27:25 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Impact's decertification reversed
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>

It seems SFI & Impact Racing (according to Dave Despain on 'WIND TUNNEL' )
have kissed & made up, for the next two years anyway.

Given the source, I suppose the report should be considered credible.

 ( you can relax now Jim... )

Kevin


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr  4 21:23:16 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:23:16 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Impact's decertification reversed
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT123-DS215EC1BC53BD96A0C44F3AB7190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2889CC1D-DF3E-496B-9BD5-103C0FAF45E7@bnj.com>

That's no too surprising. It never sounded like Impact was making bad stuff,
just that they weren't buying the official SFI labels. In other words, it was
all about money.

On Apr 4, 2010, at 3:27 PM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote:

> It seems SFI & Impact Racing (according to Dave Despain on 'WIND TUNNEL' )
> have kissed & made up, for the next two years anyway.
>
> Given the source, I suppose the report should be considered credible.
>
> ( you can relax now Jim... )
>
> Kevin
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From GRMTim at aol.com  Mon Apr  5 07:09:20 2010
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:09:20 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Small-bore series update
Message-ID: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>

Guys,

Just wanted to update everyone on our small-bore race series... the series 
kicks off this weekend with a welcome party in an around the food pavilion 
at Roebling Road at 5:00 pm Thursday. Everyone involved with the race weekend 
is welcome to this party, not just small-bore entrants.

We have between 20-30 entrants, so this should be an interesting race 
Sunday morning. Unfortunately, after setting this all up, I won't personally be 
able to race this weekend, as our circulation manager is getting married 
Saturday and I will have to leave Friday night. I will be running the TR3 later 
in the season and as an aside, I plan on taking the Group 44 GT6+ to the VTR 
national meet at Jekyll Island in October.

The second small-bore race is at the Mitty the first weekend in May and I 
will post something separately on that event, as it it really shaping up to 
be something special. Hope to see some of you there.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Apr  5 13:06:24 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:06:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Honda CBR 600 vs Triumph GT6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1270490402.21482.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF6F695A53.70529120-ON852576FC.0068CAAD-852576FC.0068F4FB@us.ibm.com>

I'm betting it's Red Bull and STP.
Thanks for the clip.

mike H.


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Mon Apr  5 17:40:05 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 23:40:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] FS: i/o port camcorder mount
Message-ID: <1002758761.12022531270510805664.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have an I/O Port camcorder mount that i don't use and figure someone get use out of it. 



all the mounting stuff is there and the requisite secondardy strap for holding the camcorder 



$80 plus shipping 



aaron 


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  5 19:00:33 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 21:00:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Small-bore series update
In-Reply-To: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>
References: <1f336.45d90c90.38eb3b00@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W39F593A63D587E08E87462BA180@phx.gbl>

Well that throw a monkey wrench into the plans :)

Marty

 I plan on taking the Group 44 GT6+ to the VTR
 national meet at Jekyll Island in October.


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Apr  5 20:08:50 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:08:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <A5C5E2C99C5A427E87F919676C10C645@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
	<14C7B98227734556AFF6C775CA65E491@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <002a01cad52e$19c5dd50$4d5197f0$@com>

Probably the easiest source of the "rollers" is a donor driveshaft!
Somewhere around here there must be several escaped rollers but I don't know
where to look first.
What is your timeframe and how many do you need?
I am assuming you have the instructions as to how they are assembled
(orientation)?
Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 00:03:40 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 23:03:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations
In-Reply-To: <002a01cad52e$19c5dd50$4d5197f0$@com>
Message-ID: <1DB2ACAB57334BFD9B43334283C90762@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

I picked up a "donor" driveshaft today and dropped it off at the shaft shop.
We'll see if it can be fixed or not.


-----Original Message-----
From: Clark W. Nicholls [mailto:cwnfot at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:09 PM
To: 'Norlin Engineering'; FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Spitfire driveline vibrations


Probably the easiest source of the "rollers" is a donor driveshaft!
Somewhere around here there must be several escaped rollers but I don't know
where to look first. What is your timeframe and how many do you need? I am
assuming you have the instructions as to how they are assembled
(orientation)? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty
GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think."


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 17:49:59 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:49:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
Message-ID: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>

I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
stands ?  thanks   rob


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Apr  6 18:29:54 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 17:29:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <4BBBD202.7050008@greenheart.com>

They seem cool to me.  The basic mechanics of them are the same of a 
pair of iron stands I have owned for years, and they work well.  It sure 
beats some of the older styles where one has to adjust the height with a 
pin, etc.   If I needed a new pair, I'd go for it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

-Justin

Rob wrote:

>I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
>They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
>stands ?  thanks   rob
>
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Apr  6 18:30:48 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 17:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <4BBBD238.2050009@microworks.net>

Well...  Since anything you buy at Harbor Freight will be a hammer in a 
year you probably can't go wrong with those jack stands.  Just don't 
crawl under the car with it sitting on them or you might get hammered.  jk

Rob wrote:
> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
>
> _______________________________________________


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 18:36:05 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 17:36:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>

find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just don't 
want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country 
that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer Bud..Spitfire 
#21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
Subject: [Fot] jack stands


>I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
> these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 19:02:50 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<4BBBD238.2050009@microworks.net>
Message-ID: <BDA360E45D0B40D5ADA18FD3C8317262@Bud>

My point exactly!...Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David W. Riddle" <dave at microworks.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Well...  Since anything you buy at Harbor Freight will be a hammer in a 
> year you probably can't go wrong with those jack stands.  Just don't crawl 
> under the car with it sitting on them or you might get hammered.  jk
>
> Rob wrote:
>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>> stands
>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>> these
>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Apr  6 19:15:33 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 18:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
Message-ID: <4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>

I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.   

Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the 
car to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just 
shy of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.

And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.

In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way 
to the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the 
jackstands, I had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly 
under the front valance.

I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple 
zone behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car 
now ever fixed it?)

On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
provided.  : )


--Justin



RACER BUD wrote:

> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
> Bud..Spitfire #21
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>> stands
>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>> less
>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>> using these
>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Tue Apr  6 19:24:43 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:24:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
Message-ID: <01b901cad5f1$1add0f10$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  My thoughts exactly Bud. Most things from Harbor Freight are Chinese.
Trouble is, it's hard to find things made in the good old USA anymore.
  Sigh!
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
  To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


  > find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just
don't
  > want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country
  > that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer
Bud..Spitfire
  > #21
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
  > To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
  > Subject: [Fot] jack stands
  >
  >
  > >I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack
  > >stands
  > > They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling
less
  > > weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone
using
  > > these
  > > stands ?  thanks   rob
  > >
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > fot at autox.team.net
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe:
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 19:30:58 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:30:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>

We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track Record!...RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
> valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
> ever fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar 
> extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. 
> : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>> stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>> less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>>> these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From niteseeker at mac.com  Tue Apr  6 20:00:39 2010
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:00:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <35F880FB-0042-4F60-A3E1-7DABEB1A5011@mac.com>

They hold up my Spitfire just fine.  Have not used them on any of my heavier vehicles yet.





On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:49 PM, Rob wrote:

> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack stands
> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using these
> stands ?  thanks   rob
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/niteseeker at mac.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:03:40 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <D741E5A60D21478795F14D5A3DF8D5FA@INSPIRON>

That's funny because I do the same thing with the jack or a stack of 4x4's 
that are laying around. The kicker is most likely there will be no warning
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
> valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
> ever fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar 
> extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. 
> : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>> stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>> less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using 
>>> these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:09:56 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:09:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <E717C4C2AFB44401BF1C3BBB56A37BCB@INSPIRON>

But I think there is more than a few of us using the $70.00 light wght. 
aluminum jack from Harbor I have had mine for about 4 years. i never get 
under it and pay pretty close attention when lifting the car Actually I 
don't i trust it come to think of it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
> safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
> To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
> Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
>> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
>> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
>> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
>> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>>
>> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
>> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under 
>> it.
>>
>> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
>> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
>> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
>> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
>> valance.
>>
>> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
>> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
>> ever fixed it?)
>>
>> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
>> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
>> similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
>> provided. : )
>>
>>
>> --Justin
>>
>>
>>
>> RACER BUD wrote:
>>
>>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>>
>>>
>>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>>> stands
>>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>>> less
>>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>>>> using these
>>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Tue Apr  6 20:17:40 2010
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:17:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in the
late sixties and early seventies?
-Ed-

--- On Tue, 4/6/10, RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net> wrote:


From: RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 8:30 PM


We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common
safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track Record!...RB
----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and
odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car to
support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy of the
frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>
> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little
hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under it.
>
> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... at
16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to the
ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I had
accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front
valance.
>
> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone
behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now ever
fixed it?)
>
> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was damaged
and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get similar extra
cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone provided. : )
>
>
> --Justin
>
>
>
> RACER BUD wrote:
>
>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just don't
want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a country that
we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>
>>
>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack
stands
>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling less
>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone using
these
>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net


From adams910 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  6 20:31:28 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:31:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from Salem
Massachusetts would ya'? ....

Rob,

We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. Look
around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the place. This is
a fact.

As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like there
is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than anything that ever
came out of Britain during the '60's

Bob


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Apr  6 20:33:29 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:33:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON>
	<8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud>
	<4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <4BBBEEF9.7040508@microworks.net>

You got that right.

Crash test of Chinese made 4 door Sedan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHZqcKj7jNM

Crash test of a Smart car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz-s1sIoLhU

RACER BUD wrote:
> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's 
> common safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" 
> <jmwagner at greenheart.com>


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue Apr  6 20:37:04 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON><8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud><4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com>
	<AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
Message-ID: <B1EAF0980E704BBFAFE5EE1F6E0FA755@latitudefb1e41>

The little notches on aluminum jack stands scare me. Aluminum fractures much 
more readily than steel.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> We always should leave a floor jack up in case of a problem..That's common 
> safety stuff for Car Guys.... Chinese products have a Bad Track 
> Record!...RB
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
> To: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
> Cc: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands
>
>
>> I'd trust those stands over a hell of a lot of the other stands and 
>> odd-non-stand-objects I have used over the years to secure a car.
>> Besides, I've always made it a habit of putting other items under the car 
>> to support it if a stand failed... i.e. a floor jack (jacked up just shy 
>> of the frame)... big ol' tires and rims from a 4x4... etc. etc.
>>
>> And I've always made a habit of giving a car on stands a good little 
>> hand-made california tremor... as a test... before I put my body under 
>> it.
>>
>> In all these years, the only jack-stand screw up I've ever had... was... 
>> at 16... lowering my just-garage-painted-and-restored TR4A all the way to 
>> the ground just as I noticed that when I had pulled out the jackstands, I 
>> had accidentally left one perfectly centered and directly under the front 
>> valance.
>>
>> I never repaired that valance.   One really couldn't see the crumple zone 
>> behind the front license place.  (I wonder if whoever owns that car now 
>> ever fixed it?)
>>
>> On my current TR4A, that I bought in the 90's, the front valance was 
>> damaged and I replaced it with a TR250 valance so that I would get 
>> similar extra cooling from the vent that the earlier car's crumple zone 
>> provided. : )
>>
>>
>> --Justin
>>
>>
>>
>> RACER BUD wrote:
>>
>>> find out if they are made in China..no sarcasm intended here...I just 
>>> don't want to get under a car that is supported by a product made in a 
>>> country that we know sends us bad stuff(lead in toys, etc)....Racer 
>>> Bud..Spitfire #21
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>
>>> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:49 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] jack stands
>>>
>>>
>>>> I am wondering what members think about Harbor freights Aluminum Jack 
>>>> stands
>>>> They weigh 3lbs and will support 1.5 ton. I like the idea of hauling 
>>>> less
>>>> weight to the track the van is usually over wght. as it is  Anyone 
>>>> using these
>>>> stands ?  thanks   rob
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From bluebit at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:37:45 2010
From: bluebit at comcast.net (Jim%20Roelofs)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 02:37:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <1161576851.7620821270607684824.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He
is survived by his beloved wife Janine.



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire,
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more.



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed.

Jim Roelofs
303-862-9371 (h)
303-629-3545 (w)
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred)


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Apr  6 20:47:05 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 19:47:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Jack Stands...
Message-ID: <C2710612FC6E4A7881701D84136B7DC9@Bud>

I guess weve been dumbed down.!
RB


From niteseeker at mac.com  Tue Apr  6 21:02:29 2010
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 22:02:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>

On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:

> Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in the
> late sixties and early seventies?
> -Ed-


Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor Freight tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and had to rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly different.   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping in at a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US for close to the same cost.  


From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr  6 22:03:22 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 00:03:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
Message-ID: <y2kd9f7bd331004062103w463a16b5se393c517749924ac@mail.gmail.com>

Most of the time I'm pretty happy ignoring the US/China tool argument,
buying the cheap tools when I need something disposable or loosable or I'm
just feeling cheap.

I have a few sets of jack stands, all made in china, all steel. For my light
cars, alum. stands are certainly going to hold up. I wouldn't use them under
my truck though...

The one that annoys me most is once having a source for real Milton air line
couplers. The cheap ones just don't fit, and when they do, they leak. And I
don't have a local source for Milton anymore.

Just today's rant.
Bob

"Life sucks and then you die. Then death sucks. This repeats itself until
you reach Nirvana, the ultimate bummer" - MK after one too many beers and
valium.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 11:02 PM, dick ross <niteseeker at mac.com> wrote:

> On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
>
> > Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff in
> the
> > late sixties and early seventies?
> > -Ed-
>
>
> Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor Freight
> tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
> But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and had to
> rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly different.
>   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping in at
> a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US for
> close to the same cost.
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  7 05:14:05 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:14:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
References: <881532.28552.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<EAB3AB08-1FA9-4F71-826F-5C1C271079B2@mac.com>
	<y2kd9f7bd331004062103w463a16b5se393c517749924ac@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01e901cad643$702a1740$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  It's harder to ignore when Channellock is 15 miles down the road in
Meadville, PA, and friends work there. Or Reed Mfg in Erie (they make vises,
tools , and equipment for plumbing and oil field use) where the wife of the
CEO/owner is a physician friend of mine.
  I hate to say it, but imports from India and Poland are fairly good
quality.
  I guess we have to go with the flow.
  Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
  To: "dick ross" <niteseeker at mac.com>
  Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 12:03 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


  > Most of the time I'm pretty happy ignoring the US/China tool argument,
  > buying the cheap tools when I need something disposable or loosable or
I'm
  > just feeling cheap.
  >
  > I have a few sets of jack stands, all made in china, all steel. For my
light
  > cars, alum. stands are certainly going to hold up. I wouldn't use them
under
  > my truck though...
  >
  > The one that annoys me most is once having a source for real Milton air
line
  > couplers. The cheap ones just don't fit, and when they do, they leak.
And I
  > don't have a local source for Milton anymore.
  >
  > Just today's rant.
  > Bob
  >
  > "Life sucks and then you die. Then death sucks. This repeats itself
until
  > you reach Nirvana, the ultimate bummer" - MK after one too many beers
and
  > valium.
  >
  > On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 11:02 PM, dick ross <niteseeker at mac.com> wrote:
  >
  > > On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:17 PM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
  > >
  > > > Can most of us remember when we use to say that about Japanese stuff
in
  > > the
  > > > late sixties and early seventies?
  > > > -Ed-
  > >
  > >
  > > Can remember that well and have noticed an improvement in Harbor
Freight
  > > tools.  I use them at work, where they have a tendency to walk off.
  > > But then yesterday had some connections that were made in China and
had to
  > > rethread the pipe stems because 2 out of 4 fittings were slightly
different.
  > >   Ten years ago we had no imported parts at work now they are creeping
in at
  > > a high rate of speed.  Just know way that we can get them made in US
for
  > > close to the same cost.
  > >
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > fot at autox.team.net
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  7 05:21:34 2010
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:21:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] wedge
Message-ID: <01f801cad644$7b9ce340$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi, anyone interested in a '76 TR7?
A friend of mine has it and it is for sale. It seems to be in fairly decent
shape. It hasn't been driven in about a year. It's up on Chinese jackstands
for now. (Come on, a little humor never hurt.)
The car is for sale. It's a 5 speed with about 75K on the clock and can be had
for a reasonable price.
Give me a shout if you have an interest.
Bill


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  7 07:25:07 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:25:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F4B368D911FB4196B2A7D7D8C77998F8@INSPIRON><8745136D6F3A456596267139120BD919@Bud><4BBBDCB5.4010902@greenheart.com><AEF9FCC5F3C6431CA2604447C40AFF94@Bud>
	<z2p673993c51004061931ncc2d9014o905810f27e5780a7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON>

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys 
"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the 
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and 
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store, 
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from Salem
> Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. Look
> around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the place. This 
> is
> a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there
> is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than anything that 
> ever
> came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net


From jameselbe at aol.com  Wed Apr  7 09:27:34 2010
From: jameselbe at aol.com (JAMESELBE)
Date: Wed,  7 Apr 2010 09:27:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <b968e12c.242a.45bd.ab2d.1563e00810c0@aol.com>

It was also fun seeing Ray and Janine following each other around the track in the TR4 and Spitfire at RMVR events. They will be missed. 
                       JIm TR4 #223



In a message dated 04/06/10 21:18:10 Mountain Daylight Time, bluebit at comcast.net writes:
It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He 
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He 
is survived by his beloved wife Janine. 



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain 
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire, 
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more. 



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed. 

Jim Roelofs 
303-862-9371 (h) 
303-629-3545 (w) 
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred) 

_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jameselbe at aol.com 


From jameselbe at aol.com  Wed Apr  7 09:59:06 2010
From: jameselbe at aol.com (JAMESELBE)
Date: Wed,  7 Apr 2010 09:59:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ec5b20ed.026b.4e19.89f7.7fe8e6e64569@aol.com>

It was also fun having Ray and Janine following each other around the track in the TR4 and Spitfire at RMVR events. He will be missed.
        Jim TR4 #223



In a message dated 04/06/10 21:18:10 Mountain Daylight Time, bluebit at comcast.net writes:
It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He 
died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado. He 
is survived by his beloved wife Janine. 



Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky Mountain 
Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track spitfire, 
GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B  and more. 



A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed. 

Jim Roelofs 
303-862-9371 (h) 
303-629-3545 (w) 
bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred) 

_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jameselbe at aol.com 


From cofrog at q.com  Wed Apr  7 11:24:15 2010
From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:24:15 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
In-Reply-To: <905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1161576851.7620821270607684824.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<905542323.7621821270607865257.JavaMail.root@sz0095a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT140-w63E6CF77C33878AD6E1882D4170@phx.gbl>

I'm sorry to hear this.  Never really knew Ray but remember seeing him and his
wife following each other at several Pueblo Enduros.



Dan Forgey

> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 02:37:45 +0000
> From: bluebit at comcast.net
> To: stlnyc at msn.com; klynch_6 at msn.com; toodamnfunky at comcast.net;
jroelofs at gmail.com
> CC: rayj at wispertel.net; treasurer at rmvr.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Triumph Friend passes
>
> It is with considerable sadness thatB I report the passing of Ray Jones. He
> died this morning while driving near his mountain home in Bailey, Colorado.
He
> is survived by his beloved wife Janine.
>
>
>
> Ray and Janine were avid car collectors and racing members of Rocky
Mountain
> Vintage Racing. Their stable includes street and track TR4s, a track
spitfire,
> GT6, Formula 5000, Formula 250, vintage sprint car, motorcycles,B and more.
>
>
>
> A true enthusiast, friend, husband B and son will be missed.
>
> Jim Roelofs
> 303-862-9371 (h)
> 303-629-3545 (w)
> bluebit at comcast.net (email preferred)
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com


From walt at hot-tr6.com  Wed Apr  7 12:38:09 2010
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 -0600
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON>
Message-ID: <20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot-tr6.com



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From jeff_durant at comcast.net  Wed Apr  7 13:20:38 2010
From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (jeff_durant at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 19:20:38 +0000
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My wife insists she does the pedal pushing!  Fine by me as long as she doesn't complain when I spend $ on engine parts!
Jeff Durant
#12 TR6 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Walter Hollowell" <walt at hot-tr6.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 
To: 'Rob'<19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; 'Bob Adams'<adams910 at gmail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot-tr6.com



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From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr  7 17:15:05 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>

Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
of a brake bleed job.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jeff_durant at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 12:21 PM
To: Walter Hollowell; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; 'Rob'; 'Bob Adams';
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife insists she does the pedal pushing!  Fine by me as long as she
doesn't complain when I spend $ on engine parts!
Jeff Durant
#12 TR6 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Walter Hollowell" <walt at hot-tr6.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:38:09 
To: 'Rob'<19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; 'Bob Adams'<adams910 at gmail.com>;
<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

My wife trust these Harbor Freight jack stands comletely while she is laying
on the garage floor bleeding the slave cylinder to the clutch on my TR6
racecar as I set in the driver's seat pushing the pedal and say "open,
close, open,close". Naturally I confirm that the life insurance payments are
all current. Of course when I'm under the car I get out the big iron stands.

Walt Hollowell
Abq., NM

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rob
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: Bob Adams; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Well Bob  that's  more or less the answer I was looking for from   Uses guys

"There all over the place with Zero problems"  but it doesn't help with the
China verse American made. I was on an an American made kick for a while and
it was very difficult to find the same product in the same store,
disheartening  collectively we've made the bed were lying in. Lets hope the 
dollar remains the worlds currency.  oops    no politics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands


> Wow, lots of speculation here. You guys wouldn't happen to be from 
> Salem Massachusetts would ya'? ....
>
> Rob,
>
> We and many other racers have used them for years with ZERO problems. 
> Look around at the next SCCA race and you'll see them all over the 
> place. This is a fact.
>
> As for the Chinese parts. There are good and bad suppliers, just like 
> there is here in the States. Most of it is probably better than 
> anything that ever came out of Britain during the '60's
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From billb at bnj.com  Wed Apr  7 18:07:24 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:07:24 -1000
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
Message-ID: <820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>

Sheesh. Haven't you guys heard of speedbleeders? As soon as I tried a set my
wife told me she was never bleeding a brake again--on either end.

On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:

> Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
> of a brake bleed job.
>
> Jack


From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr  7 22:59:50 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:59:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] jack stands
In-Reply-To: <820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>
References: <D6DFE7550F544B4A9FBEDA7803A3832E@INSPIRON><20100407193754.276F018764F@autox.team.net>
	<243968926-1270668038-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-832004048-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<93F1513260A84CD3AF712F095F3FA699@hpa1477c>
	<820A571C-F479-4923-B42A-DE4463F1895B@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <F14BE2134DA246D9B0ACDC9C154F8E9E@hpa1477c>

Hey, with two kids in the house, bleeding our five cars was some of our
quality "alone" time.  <Grin>
 
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:07 PM
To: Jack Brooks
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] jack stands

Sheesh. Haven't you guys heard of speedbleeders? As soon as I tried a set my
wife told me she was never bleeding a brake again--on either end. 

On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:

> Mine too.  I was stunned to hear there is a wife who will work the wet end
> of a brake bleed job.
> 
> Jack


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Thu Apr  8 07:45:44 2010
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:45:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Morning FOTer's,

As always posting because I need help, having owned a Spit and a TR6
back in the "day" I sold my Shelby race car and started racing a Spit,
love it but I am sort of out of it as compared to the Ford parts and
where to get what and what fits what and such. So back to my problem,
going like a mad man with NDA shipments and such to get ready to
reinstall my originally incorrectly made Summer Brothers axles and while
doing that I was going to upgrade to GT6 rear drums. As you know the
only way to get the backing plates changed is to ruin a bearing locking
ring, maybe ruin a bearing and have to totally take out both axles, hubs
etc etc. Anyway got all my parts in painted prepped and waiting on
Summer Brothers to send my now hopefully correctly re done  axles back
NDA yesterday. Got'em in left the office and went home to put it all
together and planned leave this AM for VIR and the VDCA race. All my
buddies left Wed and I was to catch up. Well I get the 7/16" race wheel
studs pressed in and spot welded in place and I am ready to drop on the
4 bolt flange with the axle seal followed by the brake backing plates
and guess what, the bolt pattern on the backing plates I was sent is off
by at least 1/2" !!!!!  Turns out they are Rotoflex backing plates and
not the ones that match the Spitfire 4 bolt pattern. So I spend a couple
of hours calling everyone I know (especially west coast places as I need
them NDA today) and no one has/will take the time/or whatever) to see if
they have any. So VIR and the VCDA is out. But I still need the right
backing plates.

So does anyone have any they would sell to me?  They backing plates have
a 2.0" center hole, the smaller Spit bolt pattern around  2 3/8" center
to center measurement and are for the 8" x 1.5" shoe size.  They have
the same wheel cylinder as a Spit and also the same manual brake
adjuster set up. By the way the GT6 parts car I have has 8" x 1.5" drum
brakes if anyone needs them, they are "supposedly" rare???  Price can be
REALLY right as I need to re coup all the NDA charges I spent on nothing
now that VIR is out!!!!

Thanks from Brakeless in Tennessee!!  Hoping the "List" can help!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From KENMUN at aol.com  Thu Apr  8 12:59:25 2010
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 14:59:25 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr3 pistons/cam
Message-ID: <64c41.3eab9fd5.38ef818d@aol.com>

anyone have a good set of 87mm pistons and a performance cam (something  
like a isky 666) that they would like to sell? thanks, ken m. tr3 vintage  
racer


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Apr  8 13:38:50 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:38:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website
Message-ID: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>

Pretty fancy stuff Ted

 

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/TSIPictures.html

 

Looks great


From gasket.works at gte.net  Thu Apr  8 14:13:23 2010
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:13:23 +0000
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
Message-ID: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in the fot site.  

Questions

1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it something worth exploring at all?


If so, ...

2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue please let me know.  

Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy.... event food or some such.

Mordy


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Apr  8 15:11:33 2010
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <EAF83662-712E-4A91-8F31-634D733BF49B@comcast.net>

Well, that was effective negative motivation!  I enjoy the FOT stuff  
every day, have solved countless issues here from good advice, sourced  
parts, etc.  I sure don't want to look at more advertising in my day,  
so I just made my first donation with paypal - took 90 seconds.  Well  
worth it to keep advertising off the space!  Remind us once in a while  
what a good thing we have going we'll keep sending money.
Just think, everybody, what you would pay a mechanic if you could even  
find these answers anywhere else.  It's a bargain!

On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:13 PM, gasket.works at gte.net wrote:

I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space  
in the fot site.

Questions

1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it  
something worth exploring at all?


If so, ...

2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue  
please let me know.

Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want  
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask  
you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas  
trophy.... event food or some such.

Mordy


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pcdelux at verizon.net  Thu Apr  8 15:14:43 2010
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (Bill DeWar)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>

Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.

Bill DeWar
----- Original Message -----
From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net


From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Apr  8 16:23:58 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:23:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <C59782C9E5314F87BCADF639928F4FB1@joepentiumnew>

Since Mark has nothing to do with the FOT site, his opinion is pretty
meaningless.  I think that if it brings in revenue to support the FOT
activities and is not too overwhelming, it is probably a good thing.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill DeWar
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:15 PM
To: gasket.works at gte.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot

Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.

Bill DeWar
----- Original Message -----
From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr  8 16:47:19 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:47:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <9A15ED20BDCD4B5191D797FD9CA020A8@userb38463fba5>

I think he is referring to the FOT web site and not the e-mail list.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill DeWar" <pcdelux at verizon.net>
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
>
> Bill DeWar
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gasket.works at gte.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:13 PM
> Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
>
>
>> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in
> the fot site.
>>
>> Questions
>>
>> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
> something worth exploring at all?
>>
>>
>> If so, ...
>>
>> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
> please let me know.
>>
>> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
> interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.
> Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy....
> event food or some such.
>>
>> Mordy
>>
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  8 17:50:37 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:50:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>

Bill DeWar wrote:
> Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
>
>   

There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.

The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to generate
a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races, 
etc.  Ads
there would be more like the ads on, for example, 
http://www.team.net/archive
where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them, 
and there
is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.

For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and 
generate
a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
in the line about from all parts of the world.

And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
in one place.

But that is a different discussion.

mjb.


From GRMTim at aol.com  Mon Apr  5 07:12:38 2010
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:12:38 EDT
Subject: [Fot] latest on the Classic Motorsports Mitty
Message-ID: <1f6bd.47ec7f25.38eb3bc6@aol.com>

Sorry to barge the list, but thought some would want the latest news on the 
Mitty. if you are coming, please make it a point to drop by our big tent on 
the hill and say hi. Thanks.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723
The MITTY Returns to Road Atlanta
to Celebrate its 34th Year

B B B B  The oldest historic car race on the East Coast returns to Road 
Atlanta, April 29-May 2 with the Classic Motorsports MITTY presented by Mazda.
B B B B  Legendary auto figure Peter Brock is the Grand Marshal of this yearbs 
34th annual festivities that will feature 28 races over three days featuring 
a lineup of more than 250 historic cars, offering something for every 
racing fan.
B B B B  Brock is a noted designer, builder and racer having stamped his legend 
by designing the World Championship Shelby Daytona Cobra and giving Datsun 
its first C Production National and Trans-Am 2.5 championships with his BRE 
stable of winning cars. He will be honored at a special dinner Thursday 
night at the track.
B B B B  bIbm greatly honored to be the grand marshal of the Mitty,b Brock 
said. bThis is the premier event of its kind. To have the history of BRE 
recognized is a great tribute and truly a walk down memory lane. Ibm looking 
forward to meeting with my old crew, the fans and seeing some old friends.b
B B B B  Brock has a long and storied history of excellence in the automotive 
industry. He began his career as a designer for General Motors where he 
penned the original Stingray concept. Later, Brock moved to the West Coast to 
work for Carroll Shelby, starting his School of High Performance Driving, which 
ultimately led to designing the Cobra Daytona Coupe. The still-young Brock 
continued his meteoric rise by creating Brock Racing Enterprises at the end 
of 1965. His team of BRE Datsun race cars quickly began winning trophies and 
championships across the country, proving to critics that these early 
Japanese imports could compete with the world. The BRE Datsuns won four national 
championships and had an unmistakable livery that is among the most 
recognizable in all of racing. Many fans, in fact, created BRE btributeb cars 
replicating the famous livery. On Saturday Brock will judge the best btributeb 
cars.
B B B B B  bHistoric Sportscar Racing has been bringing fans fantastic racing 
featuring some the great names in racing for two decades,b said Ken Fengler, 
HSR Vice President of Race Operations. bThis yearbs Mitty promises to offer 
fans some of the best racing ever among a broad variety of 
championship-winning cars and drivers.b
Lotus will be a featured marque with a 20-lap Formula 5000 race at noon 
Sunday, May 2. Tony Adamowicz, the 1969 F5000 champion, will be among the 
competitors in his Eagle Mk5. In addition, spectators will be given free track 
laps in the all-new Lotus Evora during the weekend.
B B B B  Porsche will be in the spotlight with the Klub Sport Challenge which 
enters its 14th year of competition for all Porsches from the 1950s, 60s and 
70s for 2.0-liter and 2.5-liter Porsche 911s, 914s, 356s and CP models. 
Additionally, the Cayman Interseries features 2009-2010 Caymans painted in 
historic racing paint schemes.
B B B B Mazda fans will enjoy the SCCA Pro Racing Playboy Mazda MX-5 Cup, the 
only professional event of the weekend, which will be run Saturday afternoon.
B B B B B  In addition there will be seven other classes of racing including 
Vintage Production, Historic Production, Open Wheel, Historic GTP/Group 
C/WSC/DP, Championship of Makes, Historic Stock Cars and IMSA Historic GT.B 
B B B B B A vintage event for motorcycles will be held for nostalgic two-wheel 
marquees such as Norton, Triumph, Vincent and Matchless. They will race both 
Saturday and Sunday.
B B B B  Several non-racing activities will appeal to fans as well at the 
infield 2010 Speedfest. The Factory Five/Cobra Corral will be center stage of the 
infield vendor alley with car displays and vendor booths. More than 20 car 
clubs, including Jaguar, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Cobra, Lotus and Fiat-Lancia, 
also will be on display in the infield. The Mazda ownerbs party Friday night 
is open to all Mazda owners who can attend by showing their car keys. The 
Saturday Night Party, sponsored by Moss Motors, will offer live entertainment 
with music by Wes Cobb.
B B B  An added bonus for fans will be the Concours dbLeMons, which puts a 
bitter twist on traditional Concours events by celebrating unloved and 
underappreciated classics, automotive oddities and cars whose owners arenbt afraid 
of a little self-deprecation. Judges will present several awards for cars 
that are especially foul, such as bMost Dangerous,b bWorst in Show,b and the b
Biggest Loserb for the car with the greatest level of value depreciation.
B B B B  Among the top drivers competing in this yearbs MITTY will be George 
Robinson, Bill Adam, Butch Leitzinger and Travis Engen, all winners at the HSR 
season-opener in Sebring, Fla., as well as Elliott Forbes-Robinson, Jack 
Baldwin and Chip Robinson, to name a few.B 
B B B B B  bThe variety of race cars competing includes everything from 
1950s-era production models and sports cars to former IMSA and Trans-Am racers, 
NASCAR stock cars and current production Porsches. Many of the 250 entrants will 
sport vintage livery from the past that fans will readily recognize,b 
Fengler added.
B B B B  The Mitty is the second of eight races on the HSR 2010 schedule. For 
more information, go to www.themitty.com or www.hsrrace.com.
# # #
04.01.2010
For more information, contact:
Barbara J. Burns, BurnsGroup Unlimited
404.873.0772 phone or 770.329.7134 cell
burnsgroup at aol.com
B 


From STEVEN.SMITH2 at GAPAC.com  Thu Apr  8 16:02:20 2010
From: STEVEN.SMITH2 at GAPAC.com (Smith, Steven L.)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:02:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT website
Message-ID: <2F3F877588CE9B44887C45F00826F8E4191A12ECBD@msggbyb.corpmsg.com>

I'm confident that Mordy is talking about FOT-Racing.com.

And to my way of thinking if the owner of the site doesn't want the
advertising then it's a no-go.

Excellent of Mr Dunst to solicit our opinions but he's paying for the site.
I'll fully support the decision either way...

Steve


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Thu Apr  8 20:11:53 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:11:53 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
Message-ID: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump housing and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the Chicoms.....................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr  8 20:12:02 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:12:02 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot Advertising.....THE FOT
 TILL...and Heartland Park
In-Reply-To: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <8CCA5A12D8C5E3A-13D8-BD8C@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

FOT,

Advertising would be too much responsibility. We might have to make a 'rule',
if we do.

We still have about $1,000 in the FOT till although we have not done any fund
raising for a few years.

We have avoided any cash needs with some event negotiating and Bill Babcock
didnt ask for anything at Portland  .

Not much will be needed for Heartand Park, thanks to HVR and O'Reilly Auto
Parts.

We have enough Kastner Cups for a few years...maybe three.

Heartland Park.....dont hesitate to register early for HP. And, if you have
any used parts or have any kind of commercial interest, rent a 10 x 20 space
for $100. There will be a large Club Presence and Midwest Spectators hungry
for an event of this size in their backyard.

Joe A











-----Original Message-----
From: gasket.works at gte.net
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 3:13 pm
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot


I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space in the
fot
ite.
Questions
1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it something
orth exploring at all?

f so, ...
2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue please
let
e know.
Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want interlopers.
ut, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask you.  Perhaps, funds
albeit
mall could offset something... I.e. Kas trophy.... event food or some such.
Mordy

ent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
_______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr  8 21:06:11 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:06:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>

I'm glad you got out of the way!  It would not be good to try to get a  
hand or foot under it as it fell.

~Steve


On Apr 8, 2010, at 7:11 PM, <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece  
of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump  
housing and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the  
Chicoms.....................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr  8 21:11:43 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website
In-Reply-To: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <E6ACD357D9304FC48862F99229EFB262@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <8CCA5A983E4E68B-13D8-C583@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

Cool stuff Ted!

A Memory Lane Cruise....thanks for sharing this on your website.

My dad was was farm implement dealer for 30 years from 1945 to 1975. ALEXANDER
IMPLEMENT COMPANY

Stored Tractor Tires were really easy to climb into in those formative years.

Climbing steel wheels with the old steel lugs was a challenge.

Later, I got all of the really dirty jobs...steam cleaning, painting,
decarbonising, torching old equipment for scrap.

It got better with equipment set-up and valve jobs, but I learned the word
MATRICULATE and headed for college.

The business lived on for a second 30 years under another name, then sold and
bulldozed in the name of progress.

There's no going back home to Osage, Iowa, now.  People there have not a clue
about British Sports Cars.

Great golf course, but I cant seem find time to play golf.....4800' of
concrete runway, but no airplane.....

Joe A.











-----Original Message-----
From: Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>
To: Fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Tr8 List <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 2:38 pm
Subject: [Fot] TSI New Website


Pretty fancy stuff Ted

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/TSIPictures.html

Looks great
_______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Thu Apr  8 21:30:17 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:30:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] HD Theatre
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS20CAF56D9FD381D354CFAFB7150@phx.gbl>

Interesting feature about race track design on 'Mega World' this evening.
(Comcast ch. 663 here)

Kevin


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Thu Apr  8 21:45:09 2010
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:45:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot Advertising.....THE FOT
 TILL...and Heartland Park
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<8CCA5A12D8C5E3A-13D8-BD8C@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001501cad797$0dd5a820$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

I have heard enough sense to agree with my original gut feelings.

Hence, No comercial advert space on the FOT site.

Mordy


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  8 22:07:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:07:07 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
	<46BB1588-657B-4D4F-8267-ADCE3C760F0E@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4BBEA7EB.3040209@bradakis.com>

Steven Belfer wrote:
> I'm glad you got out of the way!  It would not be good to try to get a 
> hand or foot under it as it fell.
>
Really.  One can certainly get hurt.  An old Logan 400 Hobbyist lathe 
probably
weighs less than an engine block, but I can still imagine that if one 
were to have
some sort of incident while loading it into the back of a Honda CRV 
there might
be some discoloration and bruising that takes almost a week to heal, 
perhaps a few
nearly healed over scratches in the skin by now.

One needs to be cautious when single-handedly trying to do the work of 
three men:
Larry, Moe and Curly.


mjb.


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Apr  9 00:00:52 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:00:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  jack stands]
Message-ID: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>

Here's a couple options....

USA made...  $179.99
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=72519&group_ID=1725

Chinese? made....   $39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

You could buy American or buy the $40 Chinese jacks and then spend 
$130.00 on a vacation within the USA with your family.   Of course, if 
you're concerned that a car falling on you due to inferior goods is 
going to spoil the vacation, I understand.

--Justin


From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Apr  9 07:22:02 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:22:02 EDT
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
Message-ID: <9372e.372db40c.38f083fa@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2010 6:22:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:


> I think he is referring to the FOT web site and not the e-mail list.
> 

I sure HOPE so, or we'll be SOL.

Bill (Damdinger)


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Fri Apr  9 10:15:33 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<EAF83662-712E-4A91-8F31-634D733BF49B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2BCFF416A0F64D18A1A7C25DA4DD0D63@Charly>

I also have made a donation to keep the ads off the FoT site.
Thanks,
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen at comcast.net>
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Well, that was effective negative motivation!  I enjoy the FOT stuff
> every day, have solved countless issues here from good advice, sourced
> parts, etc.  I sure don't want to look at more advertising in my day,
> so I just made my first donation with paypal - took 90 seconds.  Well
> worth it to keep advertising off the space!  Remind us once in a while
> what a good thing we have going we'll keep sending money.
> Just think, everybody, what you would pay a mechanic if you could even
> find these answers anywhere else.  It's a bargain!
>
> On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:13 PM, gasket.works at gte.net wrote:
>
> I have been approached by a company that would want advertising space
> in the fot site.
>
> Questions
>
> 1) The revenue is unknown but likely not an enormous sum.  So, is it
> something worth exploring at all?
>
>
> If so, ...
>
> 2) If anyone has any knowledge of such marketing/advertising revenue
> please let me know.
>
> Personally, I don't want it.  I pay for the site and don't want
> interlopers.  But, it's a group decision and feel compelled to ask
> you.  Perhaps, funds albeit small could offset something... I.e. Kas
> trophy.... event food or some such.
>
> Mordy
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Apr  9 10:36:44 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:36:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  jack stands]
In-Reply-To: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>
References: <4BBEC294.8080504@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <000401cad802$d8407e80$88c17b80$@com>

Take a look at Griot's Garage for another option.

No Commercial Interest

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Justin Wagner
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:01 AM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re: jack stands]

Here's a couple options....

USA made...  $179.99
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=72519&group_ID=1725

Chinese? made....   $39.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91760

You could buy American or buy the $40 Chinese jacks and then spend 
$130.00 on a vacation within the USA with your family.   Of course, if 
you're concerned that a car falling on you due to inferior goods is 
going to spoil the vacation, I understand.

--Justin
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Apr  9 10:38:21 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:38:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>

What broke on the engine stand, the bolts holding the engine or the frame of
the stand itself?  I've had the same concerns.  I use good (hopefully!) Gr.
8 bolts to hold the engine to the stand.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:12 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???

I was driving my engine across the shop today and hit some small piece of
detritis and that puppy fell like tall timber.  Put a nice dent in the
concrete, bent the front plate a little, shattered the water pump housing
and
hopefully that's it.  I'm blaming the Chicoms.....................Cheers
Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Apr  9 12:25:51 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Jack stands???what about the engine stands???
In-Reply-To: <000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>
References: <SNT134-w25CF5F1E63463154D15DB090150@phx.gbl>
	<000501cad803$12080f20$36182d60$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004091422190.6826@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Tim Murphy wrote:

> What broke on the engine stand, the bolts holding the engine or the frame of
> the stand itself?  I've had the same concerns.  I use good (hopefully!) Gr.
> 8 bolts to hold the engine to the stand.

I didn't read the initial post as "the engine stand broke". I read it was 
"I was rolling an object with 400 pounds stationed such that the roll 
center was 24 inches off the ground when the wheels hit some dust on the 
floor and the stand tipped over".

Experience teaches us to be wary of heavy objects with a high center of 
gravity.

> Tim

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From pcdelux at verizon.net  Fri Apr  9 14:24:23 2010
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (Bill DeWar)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 16:24:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
	<4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>

Sorry I thought Mark B was involved in the web-site also. My bad. I still
think Mark's opinion might matter though.

Bill D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


> Bill DeWar wrote:
> > Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
> >
> >
>
> There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
> web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
> email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
> as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
> donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.
>
> The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to
generate
> a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
> Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races,
> etc.  Ads
> there would be more like the ads on, for example,
> http://www.team.net/archive
> where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them,
> and there
> is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.
>
> For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
> start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
> Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
> discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and
> generate
> a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
> for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
> in the line about from all parts of the world.
>
> And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
> Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
> in one place.
>
> But that is a different discussion.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr  9 15:15:03 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 17:15:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] General question to fot
In-Reply-To: <004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
References: <1135452090-1270757596-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1168731486-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><004901cad760$83105b80$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17><4BBE6BCD.90801@bradakis.com>
	<004701cad822$a5a19c00$2101a8c0@userbhfzubua17>
Message-ID: <8CCA640DAE0853C-1AE0-15166@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>

Dr. Dunst is our website benefactor and Henry Frye is our webmaster....almost
official positions, if we had any 'positions'.

Mark Bradakis made the FOT  possible and he will be one of our Honored Guests
at Heartland Park.

Joe A










-----Original Message-----
From: Bill DeWar <pcdelux at verizon.net>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 3:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot


Sorry I thought Mark B was involved in the web-site also. My bad. I still
hink Mark's opinion might matter though.
Bill D
---- Original Message -----
rom: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
o: <fot at autox.team.net>
ent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:50 PM
ubject: Re: [Fot] General question to fot

 Bill DeWar wrote:
 > Whatever Mark B decides is fine by me.
 >
 >

 There are two different entities involved here.  Mordy is referring to the
 web site http://www.fot-racing.com which is different than the FOT
 email list at Team.Net.  I need to put the link back in the email footer,
 as if people pay attention to that!  Actually I have gotten some nice
 donations recently, that has been a treat, so a few of you pay attention.

 The web site could have various types of paid advertising on it to
enerate
 a bit of revenue.  That money could go towards general FOT use for Kastner
 Cup support, offsetting the costs of burgers and brats at FOT races,
 etc.  Ads
 there would be more like the ads on, for example,
 http://www.team.net/archive
 where if visitors click on the Google ads I get a few cents from them,
 and there
 is no out of pocket expense for the person clicking.

 For the Team.Net email list I could do something like have every message
 start with a line like "Supported by TS ImportedAutomotive" and charge
 Ted a zillion dollars for such a privilege.  But that isn't what Mordy is
 discussing, near as I can tell.  Of course if he did decide to try and
 generate
 a dollar or two from fot-racing.com he might want to talk about the plans
 for the 2010 Kastner Cup, not the 2009, and replace the "hale" with "hail"
 in the line about from all parts of the world.

 And on a related note it might be nice to have the FOT email list and
 Mordy's web pages integrated with an FOT forum type chat feature all
 in one place.

 But that is a different discussion.

 mjb.
 _______________________________________________
 fot at autox.team.net

 http://www.fot-racing.com

 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
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rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
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nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr  9 19:16:33 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:16:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2011 and dont forget about 2012...the big one.
Message-ID: <8CCA66297B58BAE-1314-17148@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>

FOT.....

It is not too early to consider the Kastner Cup location for 2011.

Back 'west' unless there is a compelling reason otherwise...subject to Kas'
approval.

We need ideas and volunteer to spearhead. Step up. Please.

Heartland Park will be a good place to discuss.

We need input from everyone on this list, no matter how bizarre. When it all
gets boiled out to it's essence eventually and begins to make sense.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------

2012 will be the 60th year of Triumph in Competition........I hope we get
proposals from VSCDA, SVRA, VDCA, etc. This, of course will be a big one with
a potential for a big gate. As it should be. Or not? The BRITS are already
planning their return. We need to be ready for them.

Joe A


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Apr 10 05:04:32 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:04:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
Message-ID: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>

A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.

In no particular order:

Don Marshall - TR4
George Wright - TR4
Susan Kahler - Spitfire
Henry Frye - TR4
Rob Deanes - TR4
Dean Tetterton - TR3
Leo Oddi - TR250
Mark Wheatley - TR4
Dennis Delap - TR4
Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
Tony Drews - TR4
Bob Wismer - TR4

There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
TRack.

Irv Korey


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Apr 10 05:56:23 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] The Gathering
Message-ID: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net>

Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car 
show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be 
set up with a parts display.  Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension 
stuff and more.  If you are attending and need any of our products 
brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as 
soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items 
such as engines, transmissions, etc.   Thanks. See you there. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 10 05:56:58 2010
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
In-Reply-To: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cad8a4$ec641aa0$c52c4fe0$@rr.com>

Hard to think of racing with the temps here are back down into the upper 20s
and snow covering vehicles and the roof of most buildings. That and it was
80 just two days ago. Sounds like a great turnout of Triumphs. Anyone think
to notify the EPA??

Regards to all.
Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 7:05 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway

A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.

In no particular order:

Don Marshall - TR4
George Wright - TR4
Susan Kahler - Spitfire
Henry Frye - TR4
Rob Deanes - TR4
Dean Tetterton - TR3
Leo Oddi - TR250
Mark Wheatley - TR4
Dennis Delap - TR4
Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
Tony Drews - TR4
Bob Wismer - TR4

There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
TRack.

Irv Korey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Apr 10 11:35:09 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:35:09 EDT
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
Message-ID: <f303.3dd8de3b.38f210cd@cs.com>

Aaaargh!  I am doing yard work.....best of luck to everyone.

Stay safe!

Joe A

> A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
> paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
> VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
> together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
> have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
> expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
> spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
> the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and 
> flowing.
> 
> In no particular order:
> 
> Don Marshall - TR4
> George Wright - TR4
> Susan Kahler - Spitfire
> Henry Frye - TR4
> Rob Deanes - TR4
> Dean Tetterton - TR3
> Leo Oddi - TR250
> Mark Wheatley - TR4
> Dennis Delap - TR4
> Randy Williams - TR3 (he is mostly driving his XKE this so far weekend)
> Tony Drews - TR4
> Bob Wismer - TR4
> 
> There is another Spitfire driver here, I haven't met him yet but Susan has,
> and I'm told a nomination to FOT will follow shortly. And now, off to the
> TRack.
> 
> Irv Korey
> 

</HTML>


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Apr 10 14:55:01 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 16:55:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA at Virginia International Raceway
In-Reply-To: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2r354a1781004100404n30a06d8fiac99ae2d14c44c6e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BC0E5A5.2090900@blacksburg.net>

On 4/10/2010 7:04 AM, Irv Korey wrote:
> A beautiful, sunny day, if slightly cool, found 13 racing TRiumphs in the
> paddock at beautiful Virginia International Raceway Friday for the spring
> VDCA visit. And, better yet, after 4 on TRack sessions, all are still
> together and running. Not that there weren't any issues, but so far, all
> have been minor and overcome. With a similar sunshiny but warmer day
> expected today, we expect another great day of TRiumphs on TRack. The bbq
> spread in the TRiumph ghetto was also most excellent. We left around 10:30,
> the fire was still warm and burning and the beer was still cold and flowing.
>    
I'm just sick!  I only live 2 hours from VIR.  If I'd known the FoT was 
gathering there, I'd have gone.  Damn!  Well, y'all have fun and be safe.

Next time there are FoTers at VIR, lemme know if you need a helper.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Sat Apr 10 17:57:54 2010
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:57:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Amazing Happening at VIR!
Message-ID: <51E8336C-FC33-4A69-ABCC-2B1851823BE6@141.com>

After another day of racing, I am extremely proud to report that of  
the thirteen Triumphs that showed up to race, exactly THIRTEEN  
Triumphs completed the day and are ready to race again tomorrow!!! I  
believe this is a first in the history of the FOT!

It was another amazingly gorgeous day at the track, marred only by a  
few small incidents. Wish you were here!

Keep Triumphing!

Susan     :)

Sent from my iPhone


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Apr 10 21:25:32 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:25:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 2
Message-ID: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, a spectacular weather day was complimented by spectacular racing. The
weather was absolutely perfect. And the TRiumphs here liked it too. As Susan
mentioned, after 3 track sessions, all 13 TRiumphs are running well. There
were a few issues today, but they were all overcome. 10 of the TRiumphs ran
in the same group (the Spitfires are in another group, and Randy Williams
ran his Jaguar instead of the TR3) , and there were several great battles
throughout the feature race.

Memo to Russ Moore - the EPA did not need to be notified as very little
marking of territory was going on, with 1 notable exception.

;-)

Memo to J C Hassell. This is not an "official" FOT event. However, the FOT
guys that have run this event before love it, and plan to keep on coming
back. You should monitor the VDCA website, and mark your calendar
accordingly.

More good times are expected tomorrow.

Irv Korey


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 11 11:39:21 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:39:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] 19 years
Message-ID: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>

Team.Net became a registered domain on April 11th, 1991.
And it was just five years later, in '96, when the FOT list
was set up.  Some of us have been around a while!

mjb.


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 11 12:16:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:16:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] 19 years
In-Reply-To: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>
References: <4BC20949.9050409@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <400BAC83-D98F-47E6-9B7F-198FAA3D2E33@bnj.com>

I bet you wish you'd registered Team.com and perhaps a few others. Even now in
a devalued URL world I suspect Team.com would be worth a hundred K. As far as
that goes, you might look into the value of team.net. Not that big a deal
switching domain names, the only people who care what a URL is these days are
marketers.

I think I registered bnj.com in 1993. Could have had bj.com but chose not to.
I used to have a lot of three and four letter URLs, but I let most of them
lapse. Silly, that. Hard to believe that I started my company 18 years ago,
and here I am still just a kid.


On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:39 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Team.Net became a registered domain on April 11th, 1991.
> And it was just five years later, in '96, when the FOT list
> was set up.  Some of us have been around a while!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 11 18:00:51 2010
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:00:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-6 Crown Wheel
Message-ID: <049ECDD3B6CC4F14B6505FBB530EDC40@INSPIRON>

Does anyone have a 3.45 Crown wheel and gear they would like to sell  thanks
rob


From adams910 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 11 19:05:52 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:05:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 2
In-Reply-To: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>
References: <s2x354a1781004102025p18d75ac9s11674df0793ef490@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <z2j673993c51004111805n245d9bc7p820fef59e4d84c0@mail.gmail.com>

Results are posted on mylaps
http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=517984

Bob


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Apr 11 22:12:06 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 23:12:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
Message-ID: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>

We had another beautiful day for motor racing. Cloudless skies, low
humidity, high temp was around 80. After having 7 TRack sessions during the
previous 2 days, VDCA offered 3 more today, including an enduro. There was
some great racing in both the enduro and the feature race. However, a few of
the cars developed issues during the course of the day. Many of the issues
were overcome, and all the TR's that were expected to take the green in the
feature were there. And all finished except for 1. Both Spitfires ran the
enduro, but neither made the feature, as 1 had issues and the other had to
leave early enough to get home tonight, Monday is a work day. At the end of
the enduro, we were able to get 12 of the 13 cars in attendance together for
a group photo.

This was the first time that I was able to attend a VDCA event, and from my
vantage point, it was really top notch. As stated, there was a ton of track
time, I'm told the entry fee is very reasonable, and VIR is a first class
facility. There was a dinner Saturday night, the food was yummy and
plentiful, and the program took all of about 5-10 minutes. The TRiumph
ghetto is not to be missed. I'll be back next year.

Irv Korey


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Apr 12 09:28:48 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
Message-ID: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>

This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice write
up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.

http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm

Mike Harmuth


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Mon Apr 12 10:25:30 2010
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (spitfiresuz at 141.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:25:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
Message-ID: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Apr 12 11:00:15 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:00:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004121259040.22847@isis.mit.edu>

Second and Second

Welcome.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon Apr 12 10:58:28 2010
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:58:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401702613@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

Seconds for both!  I'm happy to welcome more Spitfire drivers...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it
through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a
great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights
and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)
His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father
and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris),
and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Mon Apr 12 11:03:53 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:03:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>

Sounds great, I'll second. Welcome John and Chris.

Pretty soon this ghetto is gonna get so big it may take over downtown...

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: April 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:10:16 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:10:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <546699.61729.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

2 new spits in one weekend ... AWSOME!!!!!
 
Of


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com> wrote:


From: spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com, seacubeco at aol.com
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 11:25 AM


Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:18:00 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:18:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members (second half of msg ;>(((
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <272312.34120.qm@web81102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

okay,
  My computer decided I was ready to send before I did ....
  OF COURSE!!!! I second two more spits ... Welcome, were happy to have you
...

Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com> wrote:


From: spitfiresuz at 141.com <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com, seacubeco at aol.com
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 11:25 AM


Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
_______________________________________________
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From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Apr 12 11:20:42 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:20:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] CSRG RACES AND TRIUMPHS and a Special TR3 and Driver
Message-ID: <03E410653478450986BD018A3183453B@Bud>

Hi Gang...We had 5 Triumphs at the CSRG races at Infineon....Scott Adair in
his Tr250...Tide Ebding in Steve Froines' 'Ol Blue'..(Steve was there
too)...Gary Horskorta in his red TR4...Myself in my Blue Spitfire....and the
Treat of the weekend....BILL MCANN(81 years old)...racing the red Tr3 that he
bought new in 1958, and last raced in 1965...Bill has not been away from
racing though...he usually races an H Modified......
Racer Bud


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 12 11:28:14 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:28:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I will second both nominations. Always good to have more Spit racers.

Doug
----- Original Message ----
From: "spitfiresuz at 141.com" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 12:25:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective
members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event
this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his
'64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock,
from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to
build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an
MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten
with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds,
anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary
to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!
Keep Triumphing,

Susan  :)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Apr 12 12:07:22 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:07:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] spit suspension
Message-ID: <000a01cada6a$ffb87e30$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

In the prep stages for a '75 Spit autoxer.
Any words of wisdom regarding front
suspension modifications to enhance
caster, roll centers, a-arm pivot locations
etc.    Also.  Does a Zbar make much of
a contribution.  Thanks!

art de armond


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Mon Apr 12 12:08:58 2010
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:08:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<08D991368101456B949A379AE050AF32@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <C41A896803B44B5EB5FA01014E122D4E@your4dacd0ea75>

Looks like the hour delay from the time you post your email to the list
sending out the email is having an impact on the number of responses.

Guess the more the merrier...I call DOGPILE....

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul MacDonald
Sent: April 12, 2010 1:04 PM
To: spitfiresuz at 141.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Sounds great, I'll second. Welcome John and Chris.

Pretty soon this ghetto is gonna get so big it may take over downtown...

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: April 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:14:58 2010
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:14:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<714846.65132.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <m2gf39026c11004121214we753b872k9932cc98bee08d5d@mail.gmail.com>

Yes on the nominatios...the "Ghetto" crowd is on the rise !

rob deanes

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Doug Mitchell <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I will second both nominations. Always good to have more Spit racers.
>
> Doug
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "spitfiresuz at 141.com" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
> Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 12:25:30 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective
> members
>
>  Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event
> this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective
> members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his
> '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock,
> from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to
> build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an
> MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten
> with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds,
> anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary
> to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan  :)
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
>  _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From Group44TR7 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 13:46:11 2010
From: Group44TR7 at aol.com (Group44TR7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:46:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
Message-ID: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>

Guys
 
    What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if 
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think 
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the 
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite. 
 
    The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter 
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the 
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must not 
be damaged by the testing procedure.
 
    Thanks in advance.
 
Cary


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:47:10 2010
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:47:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <q2yf39026c11004121247k7530a985j800453c7d873dd8e@mail.gmail.com>

Good two new members and the crowd thickens at the 'Ghetto" soon it will be
said that there are Triumphs everywhere..surrounded by TRs on the
track..what a good thing !

rob deanes

On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 12:25 PM, spitfiresuz at 141.com
<spitfiresuz at 141.com>wrote:

> Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds, anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan   :)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com   Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on
> Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Apr 12 14:33:45 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:33:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <000501cada7f$741e8760$5c5b9620$@com>

They have my second.  Always good to have more Triumph racers.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of spitfiresuz at 141.com
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members

Hi all!

After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!

John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.

Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
seacubeco at aol.com.

Seconds, anyone?

John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.

Thanks so much!


Keep Triumphing,

Susan   :)


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
_______________________________________________
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From horizonracing at msn.com  Mon Apr 12 15:26:04 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:26:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
References: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w3BC876A20061CA84D89AAB2120@phx.gbl>

Gary,

Here in Seattle I use a company(con-am) that has under water sonic testing.
Used for testing raw materials before machining of parts and aircraft props
etc.



"cheapest- High performance composite" ???????

> From: Group44TR7 at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:46:11 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
>
> Guys
>
> What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
> crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
> advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are
the
> surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.
>
> The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
> hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
> point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
> be damaged by the testing procedure.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Cary
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From horizonracing at msn.com  Mon Apr 12 15:41:42 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sovren De-frost
Message-ID: <SNT141-w2119C6B7FA947EF60A0219B2120@phx.gbl>

Sovrens first race of the year was at pacific raceways this past weekend. A
low turn out of cars (66) as usually the weather is not so great. Had Sun both
days :) Just super !



A really Good turn out TR's with Steve Hare in his bright and colourful spit,
t.a mosser in Ive's old Tr4, Jeff Quick in a TR4a, John James TR4, Charlie
Mitchell TR6, Bill Hart Devin TR (sorry if I missed anyone).

Lots of happy faces amongst this group on Sunday. I think everyone had there
fill of small issues.........Some bigger than others ;) I changed the head
gaskets of John James and Bill Hart on sat nite. Bill won 1 of his races on
Sunday and John James Did a GREAT job to get a fighting second place in 1 of
his races.



till the next race for us at Same place in may



Best

TG


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 12 17:57:41 2010
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:57:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
In-Reply-To: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Thirteen Triumphs racing; nice weather, a great track, mass gather at the
Ghetto was tremendous as always; it just doesn't get any better.
 
It was nice to see more than one Spitfire racing at the same event.  Wherfe
are the rest of the vintage racing Triumphs???

--- On Sun, 4/11/10, Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
To: "FOT" <fot at Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 2010, 11:12 PM


We had another beautiful day for motor racing. Cloudless skies, low
humidity, high temp was around 80. After having 7 TRack sessions during the
previous 2 days, VDCA offered 3 more today, including an enduro. There was
some great racing in both the enduro and the feature race. However, a few of
the cars developed issues during the course of the day. Many of the issues
were overcome, and all the TR's that were expected to take the green in the
feature were there. And all finished except for 1. Both Spitfires ran the
enduro, but neither made the feature, as 1 had issues and the other had to
leave early enough to get home tonight, Monday is a work day. At the end of
the enduro, we were able to get 12 of the 13 cars in attendance together for
a group photo.

This was the first time that I was able to attend a VDCA event, and from my
vantage point, it was really top notch. As stated, there was a ton of track
time, I'm told the entry fee is very reasonable, and VIR is a first class
facility. There was a dinner Saturday night, the food was yummy and
plentiful, and the program took all of about 5-10 minutes. The TRiumph
ghetto is not to be missed. I'll be back next year.

Irv Korey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 12 19:32:00 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:32:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] VDCA @ VIR Day 3
In-Reply-To: <220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <p2j354a1781004112112hf6c0d166x750ac7b31e7a085@mail.gmail.com>
	<220279.40502.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <n2t673993c51004121832o9138ba04wdd4d4090c6fd6c83@mail.gmail.com>

" Where are the rest of the vintage racing Triumphs???"

Still in pieces.

-Bob


From jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:25:29 2010
From: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com (john preston)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:25:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>

Dear Susan and Friends of Triumph,
 Thanks for the vote and it was a pleasure to meet all the inhabitants of the
Triumph Ghetto this weekend at VIR.  The ghetto was more than willing to make
another space by the fire no matter how small the fire was and supply ample
quantities of cold beer and conversation. It was a joy.

How the weekend ended for me....
  This was my first time racing at VIR and as my confidence grew my lap times
shrank accordingly.  Dennis Delapp (sp?) was kind enough to help diagnose a
problem in my vent system that not enough air intake into the system was
helping to build too much pressure in the engine and filling my puke tank with
oil.  The car and driver continued to decrease lap times up to the start of
vintage enduro. I love the vintage enduro as a spitfire racer.  Its a chance
to show a few faster cars what David did to Goliath.   I managed to pass a few
MGBs, MGAs, TR3s and a few of the pesky Formula Vs by the 3d lap and could see
the next group of cars in my sights.  Going into turn 1 very hard the puke
tank spilled oil on the exhaust manifold and blow white smoke into the cockpit
and out the rear of the car.  Not knowing what had happened, I retired only to
find the leaking oil but decided not to go back out on the track until I could
fix the problem at my shop.  On the way to the FOT photo shoot in the paddock
I heard a small clink? and figured it was the hardware on my belts clinking in
the cockpit.  On the way to loading the car on the trailer the clink became
obvious as the left rear axle broke and the wheel fell off the car and the car
crashed to the ground.  Upon closer inspection it appears the axel broke on
the track only partway and finished heading towards the trailer.  My friend
exclaimed I was the luckiest SOB at the track and that I should by lottery
tickets that day...I did.  Luckily a formula V driver and former 1147 spit
owner saw the entire event and offered his oversize racing axels off his shelf
for free if I wanted them.  I hope to be back on the track for the season
finale in Savannah.

About me...
 My first car was an early 63 TR4 which I restored when I was 14 and was
bitten by the bug. I have had 5 TR4s and 4As until I was bitten again by the
racing bug in Savannah and sold my last TR4a for the Spitfire race car in 2003
where my wife and I started CAR (cheap ass Racing) a division of low rent
motorsports.  I am  a professional Archaeologist in Asheville North Carolina
and from time to time find my self with vast amounts of down time.  During one
of the longer down times I found myself as the manager of the British
Connection in Hendersonville North Carolina where we specialized in british
restoration and race car prep.  Later I worked as a mechanic in that business'
later incarnation of Standard Performance specializing only in Triumph
performance parts.  Now I own my own Archaeology company and work for another
and can rarely find time to turn wrenches on any thing but my own growing
small fleet.

Thanks again for a great time at VIR.
John Preston

> From: spitfiresuz at 141.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> CC: jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com; seacubeco at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:25:30 -0400
> Subject: Two new prospective members
>
> Hi all!
>
> After all of the good that has been said about the VIR event this past
> weekend, one more good thing has come from it: two new prospective members!
>
> John Preston, from NC, attended and made a great showing with his '64
> Spitfire 1147. It's a nicely prepared car and he did well with it through
> the weekend. He's knowledgeable about things Spitty, and will make a great
> addition. He joined us at the Triumph Ghetto Friday and Saturday nights and
> has proven he can hold his own with the rest of the motley crew.  ;)  His
> e-mail address is (I love this) jpflyingsquirrel at hotmail.com.
>
> Chris Bock, from NJ, attended as a spectator but is working on a 2- to
> 3-year plan to build a Spitfire racer. He has been crewing for a father and
> son team in an MGA, I believe (please correct me if I am wrong, Chris), and
> has been bitten with the British bug. His e-mail address is
> seacubeco at aol.com.
>
> Seconds, anyone?
>
> John and Chris, when you are added to the list, it's kinda customary to
> introduce yourself to the rest of the group with an e-mail with a little
> bit about yourself and how you got into competition Triumphs.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
> Keep Triumphing,
>
> Susan   :)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Apr 12 21:49:11 2010
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:49:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
In-Reply-To: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>

Thanks for pointing this article out.

Scott... What an awesome car. Looks great. This is the first photos of the
car I have seen since you have owned it. What a great article. I had an
early picture of your car at VIR as my screen saver...flying. Every time I
looked at that Old photo I became instantly happy. Glad to see its in good
hands. Its nice to put the face of a car with the name of an FOTer.
Hope to race against you someday.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6+
GT6 Racecar Historian

 On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400, George Harmuth <harmug at us.ibm.com>
wrote:
> This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice
write
> up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.
> 
> http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm
> 
> Mike Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 07:14:59 2010
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:14:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Race car
In-Reply-To: <bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>
References: <OF182102EE.120FBCE6-ON85257703.0054CD11-85257703.00550961@us.ibm.com>
	<bbf524340512341d0e5b4e6dda0462c3@network23online.com>
Message-ID: <30D2F652-8A49-495F-9C30-DE48B6DD72C3@comcast.net>

Thanks - the site is heavily weighted to MGs at this point, and the  
guy from British Race Car (Curtis) was apologetic about that and said  
he would like to get some more Triumphs on there.  If you run into him  
at a vintage race, he's taking photos and will give you a car history  
form to fill out.
He caught me at the end of the season, having dropped two wheels off  
in the mud, so the car's not at it's most pristine, but it was running  
great that weekend.
here's the website, starting to build a nice mix of vintage racers on  
it.  http://www.britishracecar.com

On Apr 12, 2010, at 11:49 PM, <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

Thanks for pointing this article out.

Scott... What an awesome car. Looks great. This is the first photos of  
the
car I have seen since you have owned it. What a great article. I had an
early picture of your car at VIR as my screen saver...flying. Every  
time I
looked at that Old photo I became instantly happy. Glad to see its in  
good
hands. Its nice to put the face of a car with the name of an FOTer.
Hope to race against you someday.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6+
GT6 Racecar Historian

On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:28:48 -0400, George Harmuth <harmug at us.ibm.com>
wrote:
> This is a cross posting from Classic Motorsports forum, it's a nice
write
> up on Scott Janzen's GT6 from British Race Car magazine.
>
> http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottJanzen-Triumph-GT6.htm
>
> Mike Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
_______________________________________________
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From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 13 08:10:18 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:10:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <827021.48936.qm@web81102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Cary,
  You didnt really give us enough info to give a good answer. 
  I did talk to a couple of people here where I work (gulfstream aerospace)
who work with composits.
  Our composit guy, Steve, said that composits can be checked for
de-laminating with a simple "tap" test.  If you tap the composit with a coin
or key, you should hear a sharp tap.  If you get to an area that is
de-laminating you will hear a clearly different "thud" kind of sound.  He also
said that if you are working with a thin "painted on" type of coating over
metal, the easiest might be to sand it off, check for cracks and "re-paint"
the composit.
  His best suggestion for anything critical would be "X-ray".
  When I talked to the people in NDT (non destructive testing), they did not
put much faith in ultra-sonic testing.  As the waves pass thru 2 different
materials, they deform (picture a straw in a glass of water), making it
difficult to determine the depth and exact location of a crack.
  Again, they suggested X-ray as being the best method of testing wether you
have solid composite, laminate over composite, or composite over metal.
  Bear in mind that we are working on aircraft, not cars, so we may be a bit
more picky than necessary for whatever part you have in question.  If it is
any critical part, however, I would lean toward their suggestions of X-ray.
  If you have an aircraft service facility nearby, they may be able to do the
testing for you, or be able to send it out to someone who can.  Its not cheap,
but if its something your life (or even the survival of your car) depends on,
its cheap insurance ..
  Hope this was of some help...
 
 


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/12/10, Group44TR7 at aol.com <Group44TR7 at aol.com> wrote:


From: Group44TR7 at aol.com <Group44TR7 at aol.com>
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 2:46 PM


Guys

    What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.

    The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
be damaged by the testing procedure.

    Thanks in advance.

Cary
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 11:43:03 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:43:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
	assistance
Message-ID: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>

Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs to
bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a little
higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that disguises the
powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the front end and put a
little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque


From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue Apr 13 12:50:53 2010
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:50:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
Message-ID: <79306447.779081.1271184653161.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>



From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 12:59:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:59:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>

I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way, so
I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that done
and start tuning.

The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad or
a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around until
tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.

Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on a
track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.

Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.

For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused by
roll-induced bump steer.


On Apr 13, 2010, at 7:43 AM, <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

> Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
> otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
> At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may
have
> been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my
capability
> to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
> and this action did not improve my lap times.
>
>
>
> The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to
> bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a little
> higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that disguises the
> powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the front end and put
a
> little more weight up front.
>
> I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other
problems
> and make the rear end loose at turn in.
>
>
>
> What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
> Morrison, Albuquerque


From billbab at me.com  Tue Apr 13 14:15:16 2010
From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:15:16 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
References: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <55617E4A-EA20-4D13-B373-9714B84AA9AD@me.com>

I never saw this show up. I don't think it's too long. is something busted? 

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Bill Babcock <billb at bnj.com>
> Date: April 13, 2010 8:59:51 AM HST
> To: <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
> Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my assistance
> 
> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way, so I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that done and start tuning. 
> 
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad or a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around until tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need. 
> 
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on a track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights. 
> 
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer. 
> 
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused by roll-induced bump steer. 


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 14:35:45 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:35:45 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <01985067-E8F7-4536-BAEE-A719557DC529@bnj.com>

Having cogitated on this a bit I think I know what is happening. Correcting
your rear camber increased traction at the rear, reducing the car's tail-happy
ways. Calling it "push" is indeed correct, the increased traction is pushing a
front end that was probably near it's limits before. All the suggestions
remain, with the added caution that  cutting your front springs is undoubtedly
going to make things worse. I'd go for a softer front spring and a softer sway
bar setting. Also double check your toe. I doubt you need much. I'd try zero
or a very slight toe in.

On Apr 13, 2010, at 8:59 AM, Bill Babcock wrote:

> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
> really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
> that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
> generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way,
so
> I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
> shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
> wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that
done
> and start tuning.
>
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad
or
> a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around
until
> tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
> outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
> could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.
>
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on
a
> track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
> cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.
>
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.
>
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused
by
> roll-induced bump steer.


From adams910 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 13 14:50:58 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:50:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure.
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already.

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring
rate from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and
I would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and
doing some real testing.

Bob


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 15:38:35 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:38:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?
In-Reply-To: <89f7f.686be4c7.38f4d283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1261104693.15225911271194715074.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Ultrasonic is probably the only reliable non-destructive way to test
composites.



you could venture into the realm of eddy currents, but reliability of UT makes
it the industry norm.



It will report out the depth of the crack as well as find any sub-surface
issues.



you could also go the X-ray route!



aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: Group44TR7 at aol.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:46:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Fot] Testing for Composite Cracking ?

Guys
B 
B B  B What would be the cheapest, but reliable testing method to determine if
crack lines on the surface coating a high performance composite (think
advanced type composite) are simply cosmetic surface coating cracks or are the
surface lines of actual fractures in the underlying composite.
B 
B B  B The item being examined is approximately a 1 to 1 1/2 inch diamter
hollow tube with a wall thickness of about 3/8 inch of the composite at the
point of observable lines, the object is about 30 inches long. The item must
not
be damaged by the testing procedure.
B 
B B  B Thanks in advance.
B 


From tlizzard at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 15:48:02 2010
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:48:02 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl><EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl><EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS121E04940759809A527F1AC3110@phx.gbl>

I think the key here is that in lowering the rear the car has gone from static
positive camber to static negative camber.   This definitely has upped
traction at the rear and increased understeer.

More negative camber at the front, or softer front sway bar, or wider front
tires (assuming that it has wider rears currently), or some combination of all
three will yield the fix.


Terry Stetler


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 16:40:14 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:40:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <1744551976.14050901271197627982.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I agree with Bob, you have negative rake, you get that beak down to positive rake 

and it will help transfer some weight to the front. 

Can you get some negative camber in the front ? 

I can't tell you what to do with the springs on that car but if you can get your hands on a set of 

scales I would do that way before any skid pad testing. You can shim 

the springs to dial in cornerweights. 

How the car reacts when you lift ( in lie u of L-F brake) will give some clues as well. 

Any difference between left-hand cornering and right-hand ? If so it's definetly cornerweights. 

good luck . 

Jim G 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Adams" <adams910 at gmail.com> 
To: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com> 
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 2:50:58 PM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my assistance 

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure. 
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already. 

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring 
rate from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and 
I would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and 
doing some real testing. 

Bob 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net 


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Apr 13 16:53:54 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:53:54 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <320112300.14057061271198414258.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A4278D34-5B1C-4327-993B-C3085B59CAC7@bnj.com>

I'm biased because I had easy access to a "skid pad" -- a buddy's huge, flat
and very smooth parking lot. Checking corner weights makes sense for most
modern car race cars, but for ones with limited adjustability the result is
the question "Ok, it sucks, now what". Shimming springs on most cars screws
the ride height up.

On Apr 13, 2010, at 12:40 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> I agree with Bob, you have negative rake, you get that beak down to positive
rake
> and it will help transfer some weight to the front.
> Can you get some negative camber in the front ?
> I can't tell you what to do with the springs on that car but if you can get
your hands on a set of
> scales I would do that way before any skid pad testing. You can shim
> the springs to dial in cornerweights.
> How the car reacts when you lift ( in lieu of L-F brake) will give some
clues as well.
> Any difference between left-hand cornering and right-hand ? If so it's
definetly cornerweights.
> good luck .
> Jim G


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Tue Apr 13 17:10:13 2010
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:10:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
 assistance
In-Reply-To: <z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>,
	<EE4332AF-2B2D-4931-9C79-D956B6447186@bnj.com>,
	<z2o673993c51004131350q2ce2ae46u62e6f699e04bd3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w177911D3CE52D680AE804A90110@phx.gbl>

I'm very tempted to go with the old go Kart theory of who care's how stiff it
is, as long as I can move some of the weight forward.  The car is using the
original 4CV springs designed for a 1322lb car.  My car weighs in at exactly
1000 lbs. At the local tight and twisty track, the car seems to do well and
when I've lost her, I lost the back end.  Most corners at our track here are
so slow that you just drive through and nothing happens.  Maybe altitude is
keeping everything safe and sane.  But at Coronado I did encounterr this
pushing problem.  There is a test and tune this weekend, maybe I'll have to
go...................Cheers Henry



Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:50:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and my
assistance
From: adams910 at gmail.com
To: billb at bnj.com
CC: dos_gusanos at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net

Having more front ride height than the rear will cause understeer for sure.
Plus with a rear engine car, the front end is running light already.

So the question is, will lowering the front offset the increase in spring rate
from cutting the springs? That's going to depend on many variables, and I
would defer to Bill's reply about running on a skidpad/ tight track and doing
some real testing.

Bob


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Apr 13 21:41:13 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 20:41:13 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
 myassistance
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Good input from all.  One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the aero
effect.  Even at the relatively low speeds your talking about, having the
front end raised will cause front end lift.  The problem is showing up in a
flat out sweeper with the rest of the track handling well if I interpret
your comments correctly.  Dropping the front end should lower the lifting
effect and reduce the understeer in the flat out corner.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:43 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance


Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a
little higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that
disguises the powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the
front end and put a little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 14 01:32:20 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:32:20 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
 myassistance
In-Reply-To: <7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
References: <SNT134-w23580F9295D407C049BBE990110@phx.gbl>
	<7C50C2C85AE7411783422F1B71EAAE05@TOSHIBALAPTOP>
Message-ID: <000c01cadba4$9f77aba0$de6702e0$@com>

Take also in account that with a risen front you car will hover from the air
captured under the floor that will reduce the front end grip.
My front is lower that the rear end because of this, especially on fast
track with speed beyond 120 mph.
Have a look:
http://www.tr4-racing.de/pic/2009/spa/03.07.09Spa7Classic054.jpg

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Norlin Engineering
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 14. April 2010 05:41
An: dos_gusanos at msn.com; 'fot'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance

Good input from all.  One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the aero
effect.  Even at the relatively low speeds your talking about, having the
front end raised will cause front end lift.  The problem is showing up in a
flat out sweeper with the rest of the track handling well if I interpret
your comments correctly.  Dropping the front end should lower the lifting
effect and reduce the understeer in the flat out corner.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:43 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Hmod Handling question for your entertainment and
myassistance


Gang,  The Renault powered Bunce Buck has developed a small problem in
otherrwise flawless handling at least at the speeds so far seen in the car.
At the Coronado race there was a flat out left hand sweeper where I may have
been seeing 60 mph.  The car began to push (understeer) beyond my capability
to anticipate it.  This caused me to have to left foot brake to reign it in
and this action did not improve my lap times.



The Details:  The car is rear engined and I had to shorten the rear springs
to bring the positive camber in the rear into line.  The front end is a
little higher than the rear giving the car an aggressive stance that
disguises the powerplant.  I want to cut the front springs to lower the
front end and put a little more weight up front.

I worry this will make the front end even stiffer bringing on other problems
and make the rear end loose at turn in.



What say you?     I'll probably do it anyway...................Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From seacubeco at aol.com  Wed Apr 14 19:43:59 2010
From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 21:43:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>
References: <380-22010411216253099@M2W120.mail2web.com>
	<BLU139-W3072AE059DE3B99F6AAC19D1120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6B5C9CCE-0B32-44CB-9A34-E09867CB528F@aol.com>

Dear Future Triumph Friends,

Thank you for adding me to the list of triumph Friends.  Since  
getting home I have been bombarded with emails from members welcoming  
me and asking for help.  I love it!  Never has my inbox been so full  
with good mail then now.

The VIR weekend.
I was crew for the Jersey Devil Racers team 275, a MGA grey in  
color.  Unfortunately we broke in the first session on friday so we  
were spectators and help for our fellow Jersey Devil Racer team 25, a  
red immaculate Formula Vee.  I went wandering around and talked to  
John and Susan, the only two Spit drivers.  Both of you were  
extremely helpful and fun.  I had a great weekend.

About me.
I have restored a 1971 MG Midget when I was 20 and then sold it.  My  
friends (owners of the MGA #275) have always been British car nuts.  
One restored his first car, a GT6, and the other currently has a TR6.  
My brother is in the process of restoring a Porsche 912 for street/ 
race.  Another friend has a Spit that he autocrosses.    I eventually  
found a Spit that I could afford and I started a long slow  
restoration.  Right now it is completely in pieces and ready for the  
long road ahead of fixing, scraping, welding, and rebuilding.  I hope  
to have her on the road in 2-3 years but we will see.

The next race I will be at is the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point WV.   
Just look for the grey MGA and the red Formula Vee next to each other.

Thank you

Chris


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 08:29:47 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:29:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
Message-ID: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>

Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
excellence.
Vince Lombardi


From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 09:31:20 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:31:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>
References: <461D6EEBBD5F4FCBAEAD17F547625F18@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <05433A8E-6D77-4FE6-A067-8FF44E4C216A@aol.com>

I would sell all my spit stuff to get this.    Any one parts?

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 15, 2010, at 10:29 AM, "Bob Kramer" <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>  
wrote:

> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
> Bob Kramer
> Volente, TX
>
> Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
> excellence.
> Vince Lombardi
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 11:05:11 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:05:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
Message-ID: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/15/2010 10:23:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rkramer3 at austin.rr.com writes:


> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
> 

That Studebaker along side brings back a lot memories for me.  I had 
several Studebakers down through the years.  They were good little cars, often 
well ahead of their time stylewise.  I even had a Lark truck and a Lark wagon 
in the mid-1960s, but neither lived up to the quality of the earlier Studes I 
had. 

Bill Dentinger


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Apr 15 12:17:16 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:17:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000801cadcc7$e12b89d0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

I still use my Lark truck V8 o'drive for light towing,
firewood hauling and other fairly light duties.
Not as sturdy a piece as the earlier Stude trucks,
but still pretty good devices.   It is New Mexico
truck  and not very rusty.  Still presentable.
I plan to install a disc brake kit and rear air springs
and pull the occasional TR racer behind it soon.

art de armond

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494


> In a message dated 04/15/2010 10:23:15 AM Central Daylight Time,
> rkramer3 at austin.rr.com writes:
>
>
>> Anyone need a Spitfire race car project? I don't see a reserve.
>>
>
> That Studebaker along side brings back a lot memories for me.  I had
> several Studebakers down through the years.  They were good little cars, 
> often
> well ahead of their time stylewise.  I even had a Lark truck and a Lark 
> wagon
> in the mid-1960s, but neither lived up to the quality of the earlier 
> Studes I
> had.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 15 12:57:07 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:57:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] VIR Photo
Message-ID: <566988.72787.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For all of you who were at VIR this past weekend - I am still in Tennessee.
The guzzler broke down, and we are waiting for a second fuel pump to be installed.
If you would like a copy of our group photo just shoot me an email and I'll send you one when I get home.

Great fun being in Virginia again this Spring
Dennis


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Thu Apr 15 13:14:30 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:14:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members and roll call for Jefferson
 500
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1271354402.10001.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>

"The next race I will be at is the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point WV.
Just look for the grey MGA and the red Formula Vee next to each other.

Thank you

Chris"

Welcome to the group Chris. I'll be at the Jefferson 500 with the 63
Spitfire, my first time at Summit. Look for a red Spitfire, yellow roll
cage, #7. Even though you associate with MGs, stop by for a cool one. The
Jersey Devils are welcome too.

While I'm on the subject, any one else going to be at the Jefferson?


G. Michael Harmuth


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 15 14:21:48 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:21:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Two new prospective members and roll call for Jefferson
 500
In-Reply-To: <OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.0.1271354402.10001.fot@autox.team.net>,
	<OF8F1BBC90.EAC84CFE-ON85257706.0068EECC-85257706.0069B2C9@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W195C0B5675D91F3B6DF91DA50F0@phx.gbl>

> While I'm on the subject, any one else going to be at the Jefferson?
>
>
> G. Michael Harmuth


I'll be spectating, health permitting. Look for ugly pony-tail guy huffing
oxygen from a cylinder.



John H.


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 18:32:18 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:32:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>

That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination 
and $$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the 
previous year that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly 
don't make 'em like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs 
were a very close second...

M


From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Thu Apr 15 19:16:24 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
In-Reply-To: <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com> <4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AAB8F2915E7045FB96B7FE5837377706@jrg>

Where in the UK did they make Studebakers?

I'm just wishing I was still back up in the swamps of Jersey so I could snag
a nice race project.



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
'76 DM Spitfire autocrosser
And more projects than I can finish this millenium

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:32 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494

That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination and
$$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the previous year
that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly don't make 'em
like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs were a very close
second...

M
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 16 06:40:17 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:40:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
 Restriction
Message-ID: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3 of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=


From billdentin at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 07:36:22 2010
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:36:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCAB80EFAC8FAF-3C28-9096@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>

Joe...
I don't want to lead you astray, but my TR3 race car has always registered
HIGH psi on my standard (period correct) oil guage when racing.  We used to
worry about it, but finally assumed the guage was peculiar and learned to live
with it.
Bill


From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 07:48:22 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:48:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7C0C758C-5889-4049-9478-1416C2340CEC@aol.com>

I will venture a guess. Could it be a bad seal or a small crack.    
Maybe even a wrong filter
Just a guess

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 16, 2010, at 8:40 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to  
> 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back  
> as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and  
> about 1/3 of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under  
> the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil  
> around the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if  
> anyone has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but  
> needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting  
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 08:54:21 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:54:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitty vibes - Update #1
Message-ID: <A38A71F62FD14C8B89F4A580C89108D9@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Picked up the rebuilt driveshaft today.  The guy that did it wasn't there
today, so I'm not sure all that was done.  What they told me was hand
selecting rollers to minimize play in the slip joint - That seems to have
worked, much better than when I took it in.  They were also selecting
u-joint caps to eliminate end play there.  And then a rebalance.  The
paperwork just says check, straighten & balance.  

Shaft goes in the car tomorrow.  Car is on the track at Portland Saturday
morning with wife, Patty driving.  She experienced the problems at
Thunderhill, so will be able to tell any difference.

More on Sunday or Monday.

Jim


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Fri Apr 16 09:26:33 2010
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:26:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <98047EEA074C4813836703E20A155DCA@elliott7455dae>

Joe - Do you have a spin-on oil filter ?  Or is it a spin-off design ?  Or 
is it an original filter design ?

Don Elliott, Montreal

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY 
Restriction


> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3 
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting 
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/58tr3a at videotron.ca


From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Apr 16 09:31:24 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:31:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
References: <5f63a.3aa0888a.38f8a147@aol.com>
	<4BC7B012.9050801@twcny.rr.com> <AAB8F2915E7045FB96B7FE5837377706@jrg>
Message-ID: <000801cadd79$e0dfdff0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

It is possible there was a distributor in the UK who
assembled "kits" from the states.  This was done with
great success in Australia.  Most Studes were engineered
both right and left hand drive.

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gambony" <jgambony at gcecisp.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494


> Where in the UK did they make Studebakers?
>
> I'm just wishing I was still back up in the swamps of Jersey so I could 
> snag
> a nice race project.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire autocrosser
> And more projects than I can finish this millenium
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Mark Eginton
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Ebay Item number: 260585731494
>
> That was my thought exactly, the Spit is ok for someone with imagination 
> and
> $$$ but that Studebaker is just cool although I think its the previous 
> year
> that was the most Studious - just fabulous. They certainly don't make 'em
> like that any more... For me it was Hudsons but Studs were a very close
> second...
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.791 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/13/10
> 01:32:00
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 16 10:17:01 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
Message-ID: <a0f3d.4826326f.38f9e77d@cs.com>

I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.

So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.

Joe


> Joe - Do you have a spin-on oil filter ?  Or is it a spin-off design ?  
> Or 
> is it an original filter design ?
> 
> Don Elliott, Montreal
> 

</HTML>


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 10:43:38 2010
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:43:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cadd83$f770f5b0$e652e110$@racer@comcast.net>

Joe:

Could you have a clogged or defective oil filter?

Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 5:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 16 11:11:05 2010
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:11:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] radiator preasure
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I have a problem with pressure in the radiator forcing coolant (water) to
the overflow catch can but not allowing the coolant back in the radiator. 

I
am no mechanic, do not build or assemble the engine but would like to
understand possible contributing circumstances and possible solutions.

The
engine is TR-4, have run the same head and same bottom end for five race
weekends with none of these symptoms. changed engine builders, freshened the
bottom,did valve job with new valves same dimension, same supplier. Dyno
tested and tuned with no sign of a problem. I have used a 7lb cap forever,
have more than adequate radiator that was new 4 race weekends ago.

first race
weekend problem showed up. I'm a slow learner so I limped along by keeping the
radiator full. apparently by the time I realized the magnitude I over heated
the engine enough to damaged pistons and liners. By the end of the weekend
decided it was the radiator cap.

Bought new cap, had the pistons and liners
replaced, next weekend same problem I loose between 8 and 16oz depending how
hard I drive. Tried a 13lb cap at the track with no improvement. I located a
20 lb cap but got a recommendation to not use one that high so I did not test
that. There is no sign of water in the combustion chamber.

My questions are
what can cause this change and what might be my solutions.

thanks in
advance,  Mark Wheatley
                             #86 TR-4










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Fri Apr 16 12:13:21 2010
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:13:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A5466DD2B4A4E208EDA74F1E9F2B657@Dell5100Laptop>

Joe, my TR4 race car has two oil pressure gauges, one reads before the
filter and the other reads at the oil gallery.  In effect, one reads coming
out of the pump and the other reads after it has gone through the system.
If everything is normal, the gauge reading before the filter is about 10psi
higher than the reading at the oil gallery.  On two occasions I have seen
the first gauge reading much higher than normal and the second gauge reading
much lower.  The problem was a clogged oil filter and when the filter was
replaced everything went back to normal.  My guess on the excess oil is that
if it can't get through the filter it's being forced out somewhere else.
Don

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Apr 16 14:17:08 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:17:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <0A5466DD2B4A4E208EDA74F1E9F2B657@Dell5100Laptop>
Message-ID: <A244D57030794B7DAC8F1EA4A8B2E727@Bud>

Joe  my friend put a new engine in his MGB racecar...ran it a bit then 
changed the filter....he put on a Fram filter that fit fine, but was the 
wrong filter for the engine...he couldn't get enough oil pressure through 
the filter...taked to Huffaker..he changed filters, and all was fine...I 
later spoke to a friend who has a racecar shop...very experienced guy...He 
said to stay away from FRAM filters...
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ofbracing" <ofbracing at nefcom.net>
To: <n197tr4 at cs.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restriction


> Joe, my TR4 race car has two oil pressure gauges, one reads before the
> filter and the other reads at the oil gallery.  In effect, one reads 
> coming
> out of the pump and the other reads after it has gone through the system.
> If everything is normal, the gauge reading before the filter is about 
> 10psi
> higher than the reading at the oil gallery.  On two occasions I have seen
> the first gauge reading much higher than normal and the second gauge 
> reading
> much lower.  The problem was a clogged oil filter and when the filter was
> replaced everything went back to normal.  My guess on the excess oil is 
> that
> if it can't get through the filter it's being forced out somewhere else.
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 8:40 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> Restriction
>
> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofbracing at nefcom.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 16 16:38:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:38:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] radiator preasure
In-Reply-To: <626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
	<626322.52485.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <07a401caddb5$8c79c4d0$a56d4e70$@rr.com>

> I have a problem with pressure in the radiator forcing coolant (water)
> to the overflow catch can but not allowing the coolant back in the
> radiator.

If it's not pulling coolant back out of the reservoir, then there is an air
leak somewhere.  Could be in the overflow hose, could be a water pump seal,
could be a small compression leak (too small to show on a compression test),
or (most common in my experience) the secondary seal in the radiator cap is
not sealing to the top of the radiator neck.

If you have an early TR4 with the tall (1") fill neck, most of the caps
available don't have that secondary seal.  Any radiator shop can substitute
a later neck, though.

Note that it is normal for a certain amount of water to be expelled to the
reservoir as the engine warms up.  Water expands more than cast iron does.
So the issue is why doesn't it get sucked back in as the engine cools.
Since it cools slowly, it only takes a microscopic leak to cause problems.

-- Randall 


From KENMUN at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 07:31:07 2010
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:31:07 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
Message-ID: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped  
running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no  
compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going up/down.  
inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt was  
sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go 
up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, the 
locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any 
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage  racer


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sat Apr 17 15:04:31 2010
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:04:31 GMT
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
Message-ID: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>

Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
BODY Restri...
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT

I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.

So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.

Joe




____________________________________________________________
Understanding Chemo
Get the Facts About How Chemo Works & Tips for a Successful Outcome.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca226816a9966ba0st05duc


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 15:59:04 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:59:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <EB2E8516C0BF43FD8612BB953AB5D5A5@Bud>

That oil line sound like a likely possibility..I've had that on my 
spitfire..
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch at netzero.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restri...


> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> To: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
> BODY Restri...
> Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
>
> I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
>
> So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Understanding Chemo
> Get the Facts About How Chemo Works & Tips for a Successful Outcome.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca226816a9966ba0st05duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 17 16:04:36 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:04:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>

> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  

Both of them ...


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Apr 17 16:57:12 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 00:57:12 +0200
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
In-Reply-To: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
References: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000401cade81$528f4930$f7addb90$@com>

I don't use the locking tabs at this point.
I use loctite to fix the bolts in their threads.
Never came one lose 'till now.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von KENMUN at aol.com
Gesendet: Samstag, 17. April 2010 15:31
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped
running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no
compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going up/down.

inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt
was
sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go
up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, the
locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage
racer
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 17:00:41 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
	<030701cade79$f8596e20$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2AFC8B92-3828-4006-9AD3-5B65709DA7E4@aol.com>

What about running it with out the filter element to see if the filter  
is clogged and causing excess pressure?  Maybe a bypass valve is bad

Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 17, 2010, at 6:04 PM, "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge  
>> fitting
>> attached to the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?
>
> Both of them ...
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Apr 17 17:25:48 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
In-Reply-To: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CCAC9C72858D77-36C-1527@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>

Joe,

Using Kas' sage instructions in search of oil leaks, I have isolated two areas
of leaks.

One was from the dipstick hole. Puzzling, as I have never seen this much
activity at the dipstick hole.

The second source, and most significant is to be revealed by removing the
transmission.

I have hopes that it is the machining plug hole behind the cam shaft. This
seems most likely and my first choice over the rear crank seal.

Thanks for all of the support, moral and technical. Although I have not rung
the AMBRO out aggressively, there are indications that it will run strong and
handle well.

Joe








-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: 58tr3a at videotron.ca; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 4:04 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
BODY Restri...


Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
attached
o the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
rom: N197TR4 at cs.com
o: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
ubject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
estri...
ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
Joe


___________________________________________________________
enny Stock Jumping 2000%
ign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
ttp://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca22681679f67e7fst04duc


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 17:43:09 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:43:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
References: <6e60.51066657.38fb121b@aol.com>
	<000401cade81$528f4930$f7addb90$@com>
Message-ID: <57816C865F5E4C63AB92141DC7A4F7B4@Bud>

sounds like your distributor drive broke..freezing up the cam, while the 
cranshaft still wanted to turn the cam with the timing chain.
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <KENMUN at aol.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared


>I don't use the locking tabs at this point.
> I use loctite to fix the bolts in their threads.
> Never came one lose 'till now.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von KENMUN at aol.com
> Gesendet: Samstag, 17. April 2010 15:31
> An: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
>
> fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went "bang" and stopped
> running. external signs were that the engine turned over like there was no
> compression, the dist. didn't turn and the push rods weren't going 
> up/down.
>
> inside the cam sprocket bolts were sheared and the chain cover center bolt
> was
> sheared. the crank turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go
> up/down  with no extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, 
> the
> locking tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any
> ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage
> racer
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
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> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 17 17:48:53 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:48:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
In-Reply-To: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901cade88$8b224d40$a166e7c0$@com>

Joe,
	Just a thought, check on the canister housing and make sure there is
only ONE "o-ring" in the groove.  It's easy to have 2 and sometimes 3 forced
in there.  As I recall, the stock housing casting has a taper on it to guide
the canister into the slot.  With 2 or 3 "o-rings" in there the canister
will tend to wobble around a bit and leak.  As I recall, Ryan's street TR4
had 2 "o-rings" in the canister.  The oil pressure initially at road speed
and then dropping to a normal 50 PSI or so at 3000 sounds about right for a
stock engine.

	Doesn't explain the problem with the spin on but it could be two
separate problems, just to confuse everybody!!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 7:40 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER BODY
Restriction

This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.

At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..

Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
of
a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
car...a lot of oil.

I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around the
filter body support tends to dispel that idea.

I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone has
experience this before and has a specific cause.

Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
process.

Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.

Thanks....Joe A










=
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 18:34:01 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:34:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restri...
References: <20100417.170431.5574.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
	<8CCAC9C72858D77-36C-1527@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <18E7CBB1672A495993865267B5DDE34A@Bud>

I run a breather tube from my dipstick hole to my catch can...I inserted a 
piece of copper tubing about 3" long (actually from a toilet tank)(i had to 
taper it a bit), and then ran a rubber hose from there...
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <jaboruch at netzero.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restri...


> Joe,
>
> Using Kas' sage instructions in search of oil leaks, I have isolated two 
> areas
> of leaks.
>
> One was from the dipstick hole. Puzzling, as I have never seen this much
> activity at the dipstick hole.
>
> The second source, and most significant is to be revealed by removing the
> transmission.
>
> I have hopes that it is the machining plug hole behind the cam shaft. This
> seems most likely and my first choice over the rear crank seal.
>
> Thanks for all of the support, moral and technical. Although I have not 
> rung
> the AMBRO out aggressively, there are indications that it will run strong 
> and
> handle well.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>
> To: N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: 58tr3a at videotron.ca; fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 4:04 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
> BODY Restri...
>
>
> Joe, how about the sealing washer where the oil pressure gauge fitting
> attached
> o the filter head?  Is the sealing washer there?  Joe(B)
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> rom: N197TR4 at cs.com
> o: 58tr3a at videotron.ca, fot at autox.team.net
> ubject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> estri...
> ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:17:01 EDT
> I started with the spin on adapter and went back to OEM cannister.
> So I eliminated the spin on filter as a possibility.
> Joe
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> enny Stock Jumping 2000%
> ign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
> ttp://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4bca22681679f67e7fst04duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 17 18:39:31 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:39:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER
 BODY Restriction
References: <8CCAB791A3574BA-744-2E78@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
	<000901cade88$8b224d40$a166e7c0$@com>
Message-ID: <AFDDBB2308B14959AD85EB62B6F041D5@Bud>

JOE..Tim's idea about the oil filter rubber  rings an old bell..... I know 
you are experienced in this stuff...but remember..Only check/change 1 THING 
AT A TIME...and be sure to email us for approval before you take a dinner 
break(:>)
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
To: <n197tr4 at cs.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
BODY Restriction


> Joe,
> Just a thought, check on the canister housing and make sure there is
> only ONE "o-ring" in the groove.  It's easy to have 2 and sometimes 3 
> forced
> in there.  As I recall, the stock housing casting has a taper on it to 
> guide
> the canister into the slot.  With 2 or 3 "o-rings" in there the canister
> will tend to wobble around a bit and leak.  As I recall, Ryan's street TR4
> had 2 "o-rings" in the canister.  The oil pressure initially at road speed
> and then dropping to a normal 50 PSI or so at 3000 sounds about right for 
> a
> stock engine.
>
> Doesn't explain the problem with the spin on but it could be two
> separate problems, just to confuse everybody!!
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 7:40 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR3/TR4 AMBRO OIL LEAK UNDER PRESSURE-APPARENTLY FILTER 
> BODY
> Restriction
>
> This one is new to me.....oil pressure appears normal at idle.
>
> At road speed (3000 RPM) oil pressure starts to build higher to 75-80 psi
> depending on the relief valve setting, and eventually settles back as the
> engine reaches operating temps....about a 10 mile run..
>
> Upon return to garage the area around the filter body is wet and about 1/3
> of
> a quart of oil has migrated to the transmission area and pools under the
> car...a lot of oil.
>
> I initially suspected the rear crank seal, but the amount of oil around 
> the
> filter body support tends to dispel that idea.
>
> I now suspect a restriction of some kind, but it would be good if anyone 
> has
> experience this before and has a specific cause.
>
> Outside of that, the AMBRO seems to be a remarkable car, so far, but needs
> high speed runs with extreme cornering forces as part of the sorting
> process.
>
> Looking forward to any experience or suggestions.
>
> Thanks....Joe A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Apr 17 21:09:50 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 23:09:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
Message-ID: <2603e.2ef26663.38fbd1fe@aol.com>

I had a close call where the factory cam-to-chain wheel set screws had  
stretched and only the lock tabs (and the timing of my routine  inspection) 
saved the day.  I talked to the Triumph parts manager, and  he sold some up 
rated set screws to me.  They had the same part# but you  can ID them easily as 
the top of the heads are rough looking.  I stopped  reusing old one factory 
ones!
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/17/2010 11:54:18 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  KENMUN at aol.com
Subject: [Fot] tr 3 cam sprocket bolts sheared
To:  fot at autox.team.net
Message-ID:  <6e60.51066657.38fb121b at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

fot, at a recent race at sebring the old tr 3 went  "bang" and stopped  
running. external signs were that the engine  turned over like there was no 
 
compression, the dist. didn't turn and  the push rods weren't going 
up/down.  
inside the cam sprocket bolts  were sheared and the chain cover center bolt 
was  
sheared. the crank  turns freely, the cam turns freely and the valves go 
up/down  with no  extra effort. the bolts were the stock shoulder bolts, 
the 
locking  tab  was in place with the ears bent up in lock position.any  
ideas/suggestions as to  why the bolts broke? thanks, ken m. tr 3  vintage  
racer


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Apr 18 09:55:34 2010
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:55:34 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 3.89 Quaife prices?
Message-ID: <361dc.79dad422.38fc8576@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
 
What's a 3.89 Quaife in a Spitty/GT6 housing worth on the market these  
days?  I'm thinking a grand but don't really know.  Anybody know what  they're 
going for new nowadays?
 
I'm thinking I'd be a damned fool to even sell it but that's another  
discussion...;-))


From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 18 15:39:38 2010
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:39:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] radiator pressure
Message-ID: <658786.9942.qm@web62403.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all for enlightenment and input received. I have come to the
conclusion that my problem is most likely from weakness in the head. It has
been repaired in the past. Pinholes were discovered in the most recent
disassembly that I tried to repair with ceramic seal. apparently not
successfully. engine goes to the shop tomorrow, further testing will tell. 
Thanks again

mark


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sun Apr 18 19:46:25 2010
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:46:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitty Vibes - Update # 2
Message-ID: <55336EA4BD644F35ACE83927BD7CC8A9@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

Well, the refurbished driveshaft worked, no bad vibes according to wife
Patty.  She had a great weekend.  No problems with the car at all, ran a
fast lap within 1 second of my best and finished 6th out of 10 cars in the
small bore vintage class.  


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Tue Apr 20 01:13:34 2010
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:13:34 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Dear List'ers,

 

Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
engine? And what you think of them?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4
Fot mailing list

 <mailto:Fot at autox.team.net> Fot at autox.team.net

 <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Apr 20 05:10:04 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:10:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, Peter Vucinic wrote:

> Dear List'ers,
>
>
>
> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?

I recall seeing adverts that these would be available a few years back, 
but I don't recall actually ever seeing them.

I just did a quick search for ally heads at Moss and didn't find them. 
What vendor is selling them?

>From the "racer" perspective here in the USA, the rules bodies would limit 
where you could run a TR6 with an alternate cylinder head, so that would 
limit interest.

So, while the idea of using an ally head has appeal, there are limits to 
where you can use one.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR-4

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Tue Apr 20 06:11:38 2010
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:11:38 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAGA0vBHGR2hFt9tI+EjXvCEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004200703330.1484@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAACHidNhL7nVHhjElfazbV9ABAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Robert,
Thanks for the reply. I myself have also come to the conclusion that they
have 'disappeared'. Still being made for the Big Healy's and MG's. It just
may have been the lack of demand that saw them die out. I can't find TR4
Alloy heads. You are correct in that these were being sold by MOSS.


Thanks.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] 
Sent: Tuesday, 20 April 2010 9:10 PM
To: Peter Vucinic
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, Peter Vucinic wrote:

> Dear List'ers,
>
>
>
> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?

I recall seeing adverts that these would be available a few years back, 
but I don't recall actually ever seeing them.

I just did a quick search for ally heads at Moss and didn't find them. 
What vendor is selling them?

>From the "racer" perspective here in the USA, the rules bodies would limit 
where you could run a TR6 with an alternate cylinder head, so that would 
limit interest.

So, while the idea of using an ally head has appeal, there are limits to 
where you can use one.

> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR-4

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 07:35:47 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:35:47 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:


> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the 
> TR6
> engine? And what you think of them?
> 

I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of 
my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to 
seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to leak. 
 It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then we 
finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new 
(at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a weight, 
and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal 
over the standard heads on our other engines.

Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.

Bill Dentinger


From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr 20 09:54:09 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:54:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
References: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <y2hd9f7bd331004200854i684b05f0z1f5d06007723fa26@mail.gmail.com>

I remember seeing the ads for the aluminum TR6 heads and thinking 'if I am
going to go to the expens and penalty of changing materials then I really
would much perfer to get some kind of serious performance gain out of it,
not just a weight reduction. Something like a total re-engineer and getting
a cross-flow head or _something_.

But alas, it is not to be. I guess I get to stick with the old lumps o iron.
:)

iii


On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:
>
>
> > Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the
> > TR6
> > engine? And what you think of them?
> >
>
> I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of
> my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to
> seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to
> leak.
>  It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then we
> finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new
> (at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a
> weight,
> and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal
> over the standard heads on our other engines.
>
> Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue Apr 20 11:07:35 2010
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (rjl6n at cstone.net)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:07:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
References: <b55c2.5b83cb9d.38ff07b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <441fe0e335356c50b28e9a8b4f16447e.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

The serious engine builders like them because it is
a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
flow.

John

On Tue, April 20, 2010 9:35 am, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 04/20/2010 2:34:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> pvucinic at netspace.net.au writes:
>
>
>> Just wondering if any of you are using Aluminum Cylinder Heads for the
>> TR6
>> engine? And what you think of them?
>>
>
> I don't have any experience with the Aluminum Head for the TR6, but one of
> my TR3/4 engines has one.  Initially we had a lot of trouble getting it to
> seat.  It would seal for two or three racing sessions and then begin to
> leak.
>  It was frustrating and we put it on the shelf for a few years, and then
> we
> finally were successful using one of Mordy's copper gaskets and some new
> (at the time) gasket sealer (by Honda, I think).  Obviously there is a
> weight,
> and perhaps a cooling advantage, but past that I don't see any big deal
> over the standard heads on our other engines.
>
> Sure looks neat.  Gets a lot of comments.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 13:05:01 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:05:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
Message-ID: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjl6n at cstone.net writes:

> The serious engine builders like them because it is
> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
> flow.
> 
I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have I 
bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone 
had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered mine, 
and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped 
me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to be 
a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently 
someone made a whole bunch of them.

Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of 
special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving 
options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never seen one. 
 If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.

Bill Dentinger


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 20 13:29:41 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:29:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
Message-ID: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could answer a
couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good time
to call, I'll give you a call.
  Thanks in advance


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Apr 20 13:35:36 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:35:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
In-Reply-To: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100420153536.ENTS4.66323.imail@fed1rmwml46>

Yes, Bill, back in the sixties, I asked the factory foundry to scrub the cores of the TR-4 head and make me about a dozen special heads that had aprox.13 to 1 compression before any modifications were completed. The heads were passed around to the hot competitors at that time and of course some were in engines in cars I was passing on also.  The head was indeed thicker at the gasket surface and helped a lot with keeping things together.  They were impossible to identify from the outside although the edge on the spark plug side was very thin. If anyone has one, treasure it.
---- BillDentin at aol.com wrote: 

=============
In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjl6n at cstone.net writes:

> The serious engine builders like them because it is
> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
> flow.
> 
I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have I 
bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone 
had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered mine, 
and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped 
me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to be 
a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently 
someone made a whole bunch of them.

Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of 
special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving 
options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never seen one. 
 If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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--
Never be beaten by equipment


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Apr 20 14:09:57 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:09:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
References: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C93168108FA542C48E9DD805CCA95827@Charly>

Is this what you're looking for?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


http://www.rvanwest.com/PCS/72pcs.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom strange" <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...


>  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could 
> answer a
> couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good 
> time
> to call, I'll give you a call.
>  Thanks in advance
>
>
> Tom
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm
>
>
> #4 white spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Apr 20 15:08:15 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:08:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
In-Reply-To: <C93168108FA542C48E9DD805CCA95827@Charly>
Message-ID: <20100420170815.EIB0G.67680.imail@fed1rmwml46>

That is a very interesting rule book.  I did all the homologation through 1970.  Obviously I did not do the 1972 issue.The page on the GT-6 shows the carburetors to be 1.25", WRONG, and there was never a GT-6 with that Spitfire carburetor.  They all had Stromberg 1.5" units. So much for using the SCCA books to sort out protests.

---- Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com> wrote: 

=============
Is this what you're looking for?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


http://www.rvanwest.com/PCS/72pcs.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom strange" <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...


>  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could 
> answer a
> couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good 
> time
> to call, I'll give you a call.
>  Thanks in advance
>
>
> Tom
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm
>
>
> #4 white spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net



--
Never be beaten by equipment


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 20 15:13:03 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:13:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...  Got it ...
In-Reply-To: <52975.69399.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <850233.74321.qm@web81101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

thanks to all who answered .. a couple of you may get a call from me, but
between the pdf file and one or two people, I should be able to find out what
I want to know.


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Tue, 4/20/10, tom strange <tstrange at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: tom strange <tstrange at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Fot] 72 scca rule books ...
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 2:29 PM


  Does anyone have an SCCA 72 rule book in their possesion that could answer
a
couple of questions for me????  If you can send a phone number and a good
time
to call, I'll give you a call.
  Thanks in advance


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue Apr 20 15:54:34 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:54:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads
References: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1256C63A2E9641BCA670C9218A1AC289@latitudefb1e41>

I have one of them, they are real. I like it so much I spent $300 getting a 
minor flaw welded only to store it for safe keeping. I'm afraid to ruin it. 
It came with my TR4A, which was originally owned by a Triumph dealer in 
Baton Rouge. He was one of the lucky ones to get one from Kas.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads


> In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rjl6n at cstone.net writes:
>
>> The serious engine builders like them because it is
>> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
>> flow.
>>
> I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have 
> I
> bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone
> had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered 
> mine,
> and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped
> me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to 
> be
> a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently
> someone made a whole bunch of them.
>
> Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of
> special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving
> options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never 
> seen one.
> If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Tue Apr 20 16:18:30 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:18:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
	VTR??
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>

Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired 
cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on 
the frame?
I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best 
method has been.
I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to 
repair it.
Thanks in advance
Glenn Franco
3 6's Tr250 and Spits
Also
What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
Thanks
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
> ************************************


From bownes at seiri.com  Tue Apr 20 16:57:52 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:57:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <l2ld9f7bd331004201557q88439dfqb1e962ef7d969c90@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, I have done it. I welded it all up from underneath.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 6:18 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential
> pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best
> method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair
> it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************
>>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From goodparts at verizon.net  Tue Apr 20 21:59:30 2010
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:59:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <2191180C8B7849A684D07C393A4D1ADD@AdminPC>

I do them from the bottom with the body on.  If the front pins are cracked 
around the weld at the top you can re-weld them from the bottom.  Whether or 
not they were cracked you should strengthen them or they will.  Before 
welding plated to the sides of the front mounts I cut a piece of 3/16" x 1" 
flat iron to fit  inside of the mount box from front to back and along side 
of the pin.  Then weld to the front and back walls and vertically along its 
1" contact with the pin.  This prevents the pin from moving and cracking the 
weld at the top again.

Richard Good

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3 at charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:18 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel forVTR??> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential 
pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best 
> method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair 
> it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************
> _______________________________________________


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 21 07:59:43 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 06:59:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
Message-ID: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
have suggested starting tire pressures?

Thanks

Mike


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 21 08:48:18 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:48:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>

I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.

- Tony Drewds

At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
>Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
>have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Apr 21 10:16:40 2010
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <j2v8cbd782d1004210916p3fd7351o153c8efbf9bc93c9@mail.gmail.com>

At the CRC I asked the Hoosier guy and he said start with 26 pounds
all around cold.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
> Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
> have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>



--
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Apr 21 10:51:11 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:51:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<j2v8cbd782d1004210916p3fd7351o153c8efbf9bc93c9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <540F5D51B4AA409999D8154DC29A41B5@Charly>

Hey Chuck, what happened to you at the Defrost?
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Triumph Friends of" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures


> At the CRC I asked the Hoosier guy and he said start with 26 pounds
> all around cold.
>
> On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I 
>> have
>> Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last 
>> fall
>> have suggested starting tire pressures?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 21 13:57:18 2010
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:57:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
Message-ID: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 21 14:24:11 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:24:11 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cae190$9cef7740$d6ce65c0$@com>

They really do.
I had trouble at revs beyond 5500 with overheating on the Nordschleife (30
seconds full throttle)
Since I run one of those pumps all trouble is gone.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Wagner
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 21:57
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do
they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Apr 21 14:26:45 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:26:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>

This is very low - I never could run this pressure with the Yokohama tires.
Interesting!

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tony Drews
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 16:48
An: Mike Mehl; Triumph Friends of
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures

I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.

- Tony Drewds

At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
>Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
>have suggested starting tire pressures?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
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From seaCubeCo at aol.com  Wed Apr 21 14:52:43 2010
From: seaCubeCo at aol.com (Seacubeco)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:52:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
Message-ID: <EF3EB983-CF41-4FC7-8A19-9E2EFA450EC9@aol.com>

John


 From what I know about waterpumps on a street car a 6 blade should be  
fine.  On a race car a 6 blade might cavitate at high rpm.  Cavitation  
is a bad thing.  I have read that some people cut two blades off


Chris

Sent from my IPhone


On Apr 21, 2010, at 3:57 PM, John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water  
> pump? Do they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?
>
> Thank you
> John Wagner
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Apr 21 20:04:23 2010
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:04:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
References: <2b944.643dd86a.38ff54dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81515F876B0A43389B41E814D11EC02E@TER2>

I recently acquired what I believe to be one of the 13 heads that Kas told 
me he had made. At first I noticed that the part  number, 511695 that is 
stamped into the head above the #1 inlet port was upside down and in smaller 
numbers than any of the other TR heads that I have ever seen. I then noticed 
some differences in the casting. After some measurement, we found that with 
.200" milled off of the head, the bottom deck is still over .200" thick and 
the edge of the shelf of the head under the spark plugs is thick and not 
sharp as a normal head with .200" off would be. When I received this head, 
with a bunch of other parts, it have racing springs and alloy retainers on 
it and had been ported and polished. There was some damage to the "squish 
area" of  two of the chambers from broken rings or other debris getting 
crushed between the piston crown and the head. Fortunately, the head is 
still thick enough that it can be milled to clean it up and it will still be 
thick enough to hold a gasket!
    Teriann Wakeman has been down to take some pictures of the head. She may 
post them to her web site if people are interested.
                                                                             
                    Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads


> In a message dated 04/20/2010 12:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rjl6n at cstone.net writes:
>
>> The serious engine builders like them because it is
>> a lot easier to grind the chambers to improve the
>> flow.
>>
> I'm sure that's so, but it can bite you in the foot too.  The head I have 
> I
> bought from Darryl Uprichards (sp?) in the UK many years ago when someone
> had made a couple dozen (a guess).  Darryl had two left when I ordered 
> mine,
> and he ruined one of them prepping mine.  I believe him because he shipped
> me a piece of the ruined one along with the good one.  That 'woops' had to 
> be
> a bitter pill for Darryl at the time as they were rare.  Subsequently
> someone made a whole bunch of them.
>
> Someone told me that in the glory days, there were a limited number of
> special TRIUMPH heads cast with a thicker base, lending itself to shaving
> options.  Maybe that's sour grapes by people who got passed.  I've never 
> seen one.
> If that's a true story, I have to assume KAS has seen them...and up close.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com
>
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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11:09:00


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Apr 21 20:24:53 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:24:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at
 rear bearing block.
Message-ID: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>

This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last year.

Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...

Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
to.

Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is the
cause of the leak.

If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)

If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
other cars.

I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized now...which is
likely a good thing.

Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for all of
the support.

Joe A....


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 21 21:17:28 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:17:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>
References: <957501.69878.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100421144720.19120187647@autox.team.net>
	<000101cae190$f877c720$e9675560$@com>
Message-ID: <20100422031628.D8EE218765A@autox.team.net>

Now the Toyo RA-1's I ran at around 38 psi.

- Tony

At 03:26 PM 4/21/2010, MadMarx wrote:
>This is very low - I never could run this pressure with the Yokohama tires.
>Interesting!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Mittwoch, 21. April 2010 16:48
>An: Mike Mehl; Triumph Friends of
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] Portland TR4 Speedster tire pressures
>
>I run 24 psi front / 22 psi rear, rain or shine.
>
>- Tony Drewds
>
>At 08:59 AM 4/21/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
> >Friday looks like no rain so I am on to shake down the TR4 at PIR.  I have
> >Hoosier Speedster tires on the car.  Do any of you who ran there last fall
> >have suggested starting tire pressures?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Mike
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Apr 22 06:22:52 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:22:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube
 at rear bearing block.
References: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FF5C04333084B3FB5AE7F2A6DC0B782@latitudefb1e41>

Is this the return tube on the rear main cap? The current Moss instructions 
for the rear seal recommend that we drill a couple of extra drain holes:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/837-005.pdf


2. Drill two extra 3/8" (10mm) diameter oil drain holes in bottom or rear 
main cap, (one each side of the original hole) at a similar angle. (Fig 3) 
This will remove all unnecessary pressure from the seal, and will not affect 
your oil pressure, or the main bearing lubrication.




Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at 
rear bearing block.


> This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last 
> year.
>
> Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...
>
> Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
> to.
>
> Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
> piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is 
> the
> cause of the leak.
>
> If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)
>
> If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
> inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
> which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
> other cars.
>
> I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized 
> now...which is
> likely a good thing.
>
> Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for 
> all of
> the support.
>
> Joe A....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Apr 22 07:18:55 2010
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 09:18:55 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
Message-ID: <54116.6cfc12db.3901a6bf@aol.com>

Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy 
Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Apr 22 10:44:48 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:44:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <239241.88893.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cae23b$1f846a80$5e8d3f80$@com>

On our TR4 we had a 6 blade water pump and the shaft was turned down to
5/16-18 inch for the threaded end for the nut to hold the pulley on.  This
stub threaded shaft broke off, we overheated and cracked 2 liners.  I
replaced it with the 4 vane pump from Moss which has a 1/2 inch diameter,
12mm pitch thread to hold the pulley on.  It came with a Nylok nut but the
threaded portion is too short to engage the Nylok.  It's on my To Do list to
contact Moss for a spare 1/2 inch diameter, 12mm pitch nut!!  We noticed no
difference in cooling performance with the 4 vane versus the 6 vane.  And
the end of the shaft of the 4 vane didn't break off!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:57 PM
To: Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 water pumps

Can anyone tell me why I should or should not buy a 6 blade water pump? Do
they flow more water then standerd 4 blade?

Thank you
John Wagner
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Apr 22 10:56:07 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:56:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube
 at rear bearing block.
In-Reply-To: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCAFDA20743475-874-29B9@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cae23c$b5634f20$2029ed60$@com>

As I recall, when I put in the new bearings in 2008 this tube was partially
blocked or maybe completely blocked with silicone sealant.  We had some
leakage but not a great deal as I recall.  I am still of the opinion that
the scroll seal will work properly IF: 1) The seal housing is centered on
the main journal using a mandrel, and; 2) The felt is pounded in using a
punch that fits the trapezoidal opening.  (That has been Kas's
recommendation.)  I've done this 3 times now and have not had any leaks from
the rear main.  We just fired up the engine after our bearing failure and
crank regrind from last Fall and again no  leaks from the rear main.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:25 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] OILY AMBRO.....Progress. Damaged and Blocked Return Tube at
rear bearing block.

This morning I pulled the engine.  First time since final assembly last
year.

Cool!  Never removed tilt forward body or radiator...

Engine came out easily from the side...of course everything is easy to get
to.

Oil Leak: Return tube on bearing block had been upset slightly and a small
piece of contamination completed the blockage. I am pretty sure this is the
cause of the leak.

If I reassemble and it still leaks, I may keep it to myself......:-)

If it was the tube  that was blocked, this situation was certainly self
inflicted. First time in forty years. Never have checked this tube before,
which causes me to think the scroll seal is blamed unfairly once again, in
other cars.

I took a small drill and bored it out. It is slightly oversized now...which
is
likely a good thing.

Put this on your check list if you have not already..... and thanks for all
of
the support.

Joe A....
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Apr 22 10:57:12 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:57:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
References: <54116.6cfc12db.3901a6bf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005301cae23c$dadc0d50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Reminds me of what my old sponsor,  (mostly free advice)
an independent TR repair shop
told me a long time (40 years)ago.
It may be true that all you know you learned from Kas,
but don't think for a second he's taught you all he knows!

 art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>; <rjl6n at cstone.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads


> Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy
> Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Apr 22 11:36:32 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:36:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads
In-Reply-To: <005301cae23c$dadc0d50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <20100422133632.Z6GHX.93930.imail@fed1rmwml29>

It is interesting the Greg has one of he heads and states that the edge on the spark plug side is thicker.  Terrific Morgan driver, Lew Spencer, is my great friend, and Greg now has his car, so as I had done some engines for Lew, maybe that is the routing of that piece. the thicker edge is true, but on some of them I noted strangely, that the shelf was very thin and actually had a slight curve and you could see the top of the block, just as edge that is, right at the back. So don't use the edge thickness of the pushrod shelf as a criteria. 
---- riverside <riverside at southslope.net> wrote: 

=============
Reminds me of what my old sponsor,  (mostly free advice)
an independent TR repair shop
told me a long time (40 years)ago.
It may be true that all you know you learned from Kas,
but don't think for a second he's taught you all he knows!

 art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>; <rjl6n at cstone.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Aluminum Heads & special TR-4 heads


> Well...apparently Kramer and Solow each have one.  Neat.  Very..Holy
> Grailish.  I wish I had one.  I'd paint it gold and put it on the mantel.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS...Greg...thanks for all the inside info on what they look like.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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--
Never be beaten by equipment


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 22 17:19:41 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
Message-ID: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>

All,

I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld intrudes 
into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u-bolt sliding 
over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with the same 
problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?

Bob
57 TR3


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 22 17:42:27 2010
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:42:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 cross tube
Message-ID: <963302.95161.qm@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have a friend that needs a front suspension cross tube for a 64 TR4. Does anyone have a good one laying around that they could part with?
He bought one on ebay and it turned out to be for a 4-A and apparently they are not the same.

Thanks,
Mike Munson


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr 22 18:17:05 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:17:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
In-Reply-To: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
References: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <907185C6-A44D-4C71-8885-E5F5E969F661@earthlink.net>

I noticed these required changes on my Southwick-converted TR3.     My  
car has two different diameter U bolts for the inside and outside.   
The outside has a big flange welded on by Soutwick.  I'l take some  
pics and email them to you.

~Steve


On Apr 22, 2010, at 4:19 PM, Bob wrote:

All,

I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld  
intrudes into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u- 
bolt sliding over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with  
the same problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?

Bob
57 TR3
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From horizonracing at msn.com  Fri Apr 23 08:14:45 2010
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:14:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
In-Reply-To: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
References: <4BD0D98D.4010906@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w61AC5BEA6702FDB39DC0A6B2070@phx.gbl>

YES ! I ground groves with a carbide to get the nessary clearance.

> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:41 -0400
> From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] TR solid axle U-bolts
>
> All,
>
> I have an axle housing with the Southwick conversion. The weld intrudes
> into the area where the stock u-bolt goes so prevents the u-bolt sliding
> over the housing. Anyone else with this conversion with the same
> problem? What did you do to resolve the problem?
>
> Bob
> 57 TR3
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 23 19:28:29 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
Message-ID: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Well;
I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed. 
I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike Mehl


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Fri Apr 23 21:11:54 2010
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:11:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EC4C68DA070A4037BE38C340DAF43001@Pendys>

Mike, i can assume that you re-torgued the head a time or to and did the 
head studs get set in the block ok ? I had the same issue at the same 
corner, water was weeping up the stud threads and coming out at the nut and 
washer area, i let it set till morning, and gave it another torgue and that 
took care of it.........Mark P
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: "Triumph Friends of" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:28 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR


> Well;
> I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
> sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
> overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build 
> the
> engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with 
> a
> few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it 
> fixed.
> I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
> leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
> Looking for some
> tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
> thanks!!!!!
>
> Mike Mehl
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 24 04:18:20 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 05:18:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>

The stock composite gasket (Payen AE 330) is the easiest to get to 
seal, and to me is the gasket of choice for at track 
repairs.  Actually, I use it always just because I hate changing head 
gaskets at the track.

You'll need to take the carbs / exhaust loose and pull the 
head.  Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  They should be 
even with each other as well.  A liner with 0.005" next to a liner 
with 0.002" protrusion is a problem.  Look for obvious problems like 
a crack in the block to one of the stud holes too.  If you've got 
some copper coat or Edelbrock Gaskacinch coat the gasket with that 
and install the head.  Torque to 100 ft lbs in increments (say 60 ft 
lbs, then 80 ft lbs then 100 ft lbs), working from the center to the 
ends of the head.  For the final torque I always go back to the 
center of the head after I make it to the ends because the gasket 
crushes a bit more.

Reassemble valvetrain making sure to keep the adjuster screws in the 
ends of the pushrods.  Set the valves.  Install the manifolds.  Fill 
with water, and warm it up.  After you have it hot for a bit (maybe 
run one session?), you'll want to re-torque the head.  You'll need to 
pull the rockers and the valve cover studs to do that (as you would 
have had to when removing the head).

Hope it works out for you!

Good luck, Tony Drews

At 08:28 PM 4/23/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Well;
>I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
>sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
>overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
>engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
>few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
>I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
>leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
>Looking for some
>tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
>thanks!!!!!
>
>Mike Mehl
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 08:13:52 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:13:52 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
Message-ID: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 08:28:04 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 07:28:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0f3b01cae3ba$5a397e60$0301a8c0@randall>

> Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
> protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
> gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
> want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  

Since you are having problems, be sure to check on both sides!  I fought
head gasket problems for years on my street TR3A (with a TR3 motor) that
turned out to be caused by the deck not being square to the liner bores.
Protrusion was fine on the side I always checked, but less than .001" on the
other side!

Although not the best solution, adding .020" copper O-rings to the head
gasket around each cylinder made a suitable band-aid for the problem.  I
drove it that way for quite a few years, and it was still not leaking when
the car got wrecked.  I used 'electrical' tin/lead rosin core solder to tack
the copper wire to the gasket; but Ken G's suggestion of super glue would
probably work just as well.

Randall


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Sat Apr 24 09:15:08 2010
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:15:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] XKCD Tackles Lucas Electrics - Lucas Electrics - Jalopnik
Message-ID: <24A2443283B94D30914F5BAC68E60E41@desktop>

More wiring than I've seen on a TR
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44



http://jalopnik.com/5521107/xkcd-tackles-lucas-electrics


From kaskas at cox.net  Sat Apr 24 09:35:03 2010
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 8:35:03 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424101727.E15EE187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>

Just as a bit of information, I believe it is Snap-On that makes a special off set box end wrench (it is a "C" shape) so that you can torque the head without removing the rockers.  We used these on all the pre-delivery Triumphs cars brought into the country back in the early 60's. I believe I still have one somewhere. 
---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote: 

=============
The stock composite gasket (Payen AE 330) is the easiest to get to 
seal, and to me is the gasket of choice for at track 
repairs.  Actually, I use it always just because I hate changing head 
gaskets at the track.

You'll need to take the carbs / exhaust loose and pull the 
head.  Clean the sealing surfaces really well and check the liner 
protrusion - put a straight edge across the liner and use a feeler 
gauge to see how much they stand proud of the rest of the block.  You 
want a little protrusion but no more than say 0.005".  They should be 
even with each other as well.  A liner with 0.005" next to a liner 
with 0.002" protrusion is a problem.  Look for obvious problems like 
a crack in the block to one of the stud holes too.  If you've got 
some copper coat or Edelbrock Gaskacinch coat the gasket with that 
and install the head.  Torque to 100 ft lbs in increments (say 60 ft 
lbs, then 80 ft lbs then 100 ft lbs), working from the center to the 
ends of the head.  For the final torque I always go back to the 
center of the head after I make it to the ends because the gasket 
crushes a bit more.

Reassemble valvetrain making sure to keep the adjuster screws in the 
ends of the pushrods.  Set the valves.  Install the manifolds.  Fill 
with water, and warm it up.  After you have it hot for a bit (maybe 
run one session?), you'll want to re-torque the head.  You'll need to 
pull the rockers and the valve cover studs to do that (as you would 
have had to when removing the head).

Hope it works out for you!

Good luck, Tony Drews

At 08:28 PM 4/23/2010, Mike Mehl wrote:
>Well;
>I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
>sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
>overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.   I did not build the
>engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
>few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
>I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
>leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.
>
>Looking for some
>tips on replacing the head gasket.
>
>thanks!!!!!
>
>Mike Mehl
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net



--
Never be beaten by equipment


From billb at bnj.com  Sat Apr 24 10:23:51 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 06:23:51 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>
References: <20100424113503.YFT56.119789.imail@fed1rmwml45>
Message-ID: <8EC25B7F-CA11-42E0-97E7-7541C1F78164@bnj.com>

Hmmm, I have a set of those, never found a use for them.

On Apr 24, 2010, at 5:35 AM, Kas Kastner wrote:

> Just as a bit of information, I believe it is Snap-On that makes a special
off set box end wrench (it is a "C" shape) so that you can torque the head
without removing the rockers.  We used these on all the pre-delivery Triumphs
cars brought into the country back in the early 60's. I believe I still have
one somewhere.


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 11:07:56 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 13:07:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 grill trinket
Message-ID: <4BD3256C.7000205@twcny.rr.com>

One last trinket I am looking for that I don't want reproduction since 
nothing else outside the engine internals is repop on this car. Thought 
one of you may have them in your pile of parts stripped off a racer - 
looking for the beauty rings around the small mouth for a '57.

Thanks,

M


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 11:21:39 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:21:39 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>

The problem is there is a
question as to whether Stahl
makes one for the IRS car.
jg

-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfire Racing
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
10:24 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Jim, It's worth the wait to
hear back from Stahl. They're
top shelf and do
build horsepower. Pieces like
Monza are crap and a waste of
money. Also,
avoid a place by the name of
Paco somewhere down south.
Alabama I think!I
run a Stahl and was amazed at
the quality and fit.

Russ Moore


-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
10:14 AM
To: 'fot'
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G
______________________________
_________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
cny.rr.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 24 15:20:30 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:20:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
Message-ID: <000501cae3f3$f8c700f0$ea5502d0$@com>

Call Ted Shumacher.  He has headers for the TR4 and we were able to order
ours with a thicker flange that mated up better to the intake manifold.  We
are quite pleased with it.  It did take some fitting with a carbide bit and
die grinder but nothing major.  Could have been fit up with a file and some
patience.  I'm guessing he can have his supplier make one to your needs.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 9:14 AM
To: 'fot'
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I need a descent header for an
IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
costing me ground clearance.

I tried Stahl but the gal on
the phone didn't know anything
about a header for the IRS
car.

She suggested I contact Steve
Stahl after hours. That didn't
work so I left a message.

Anyhoo, no response so does
anyone know of a source for a
custom header

somewhere near the price of
the Stahl?

Thanks,

Jim G
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 15:46:40 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:46:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
Message-ID: <56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>

I have been bouncing my header off the ground in my TR4A too. I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits too far under the frame for off track 
excursions. If someone makes a better one for the application I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
> [mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl. They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces like
> Monza are crap and a waste of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
>
> I need a descent header for an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact Steve
> Stahl after hours. That didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
> ______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 16:05:07 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:05:07 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>

I'm getting pretty close to
making my own.
Mordy, do you still have the
flanges ?

Jim G

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer
[mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
3:47 PM
To: Jim Gray; 'Spitfire
Racing'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


I have been bouncing my header
off the ground in my TR4A too.
I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits
too far under the frame for
off track 
excursions. If someone makes a
better one for the application
I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable,
but if we chase perfection we
can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'"
<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph"
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
>
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl.
They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces
like
> Monza are crap and a waste
of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed
at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header
>
> I need a descent header for
an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now
is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know
anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact
Steve
> Stahl after hours. That
didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for
a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
>
______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
>
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
>
______________________________
_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr
.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 24 16:42:55 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:42:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
Message-ID: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>

Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 17:17:23 2010
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:17:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
Message-ID: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>

After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the 
#@%% out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  
backfiring, changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared 
myself for. I do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 
minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, 
Tony Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... 
were talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures 
for boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 
other questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that 
helped me do it right the first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone 
sees something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday 
drives in before I see piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Apr 24 17:41:59 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:41:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
In-Reply-To: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000501cae407$bce2bac0$36a83040$@com>

Congrats!!  A great "happy ending".  It is very gratifying after all the
work to hear that engine run and not see anything amiss.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Eginton
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 6:17 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: mechman54 at hotmail.com; quill3 at aol.com; Scott Eginton
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!

After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the 
#@%% out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  
backfiring, changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared 
myself for. I do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 
minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, 
Tony Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... 
were talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures 
for boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 
other questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that 
helped me do it right the first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone 
sees something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday 
drives in before I see piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Apr 24 18:02:36 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:02:36 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 41, Issue 35
Message-ID: <c882.4cfaec9d.3904e09c@aol.com>

I hope that you have a copy of the factory work shop manual (or  Bentley)
 
If you pull the head you need to hold down the liners if you even think of  
turning the crank.
 
The factory used lead wire under the head nuts to help seal them.  If  the 
head gasket sticks out into the combustion area it will fail in a few  laps. 
 GM makes the only sealer that I will use.
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/24/2010 10:49:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak  today at PIR
.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the  overflow tank.   I did not build the
engine and this is my first  triumph.  I had some off line discussions with 
a
few FOT folks trying  to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it 
fixed. 
I understand  there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking  to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for  some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike  Mehl


From jprettyleaf at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 24 18:21:51 2010
From: jprettyleaf at yahoo.com (Jim Prettyleaf)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:21:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
In-Reply-To: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <836857.38132.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 
Mark,
 
That is great news!  Hoping everything continues to go well during the
break-in and that you have all summer to enjoy your newly restored TR3.
 
Jim P
 

--- On Sat, 4/24/10, Mark Eginton <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com> wrote:


From: Mark Eginton <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: quill3 at aol.com, "Scott Eginton" <yachtscott at aol.com>, "Jim Prettyleaf"
<jprettyleaf at yahoo.com>, mechman54 at hotmail.com
Date: Saturday, April 24, 2010, 4:17 PM


After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 started as
if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the #@%% out of me
firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  backfiring, changing the
timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared myself for. I do not think it
even missed a beat for the entire 20 minute breakin. I'm so friggen happy I am
beside myself!!!

First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, Tony
Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... were talking
lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures for boring...
guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 other questions. A
hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that helped me do it right the
first time.

There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my
machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the rocker
assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely be going
back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone sees something
seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday drives in before I see
piston tops again...

Cheers from Ithaca,

M


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 18:36:12 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:36:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!
References: <4BD37C03.5000408@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E6BA337A8A4E49B095ABBEDC5E2DAF1C@Bud>

Congratulations Pal!!
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Eginton" <markconsultation at twcny.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <mechman54 at hotmail.com>; <quill3 at aol.com>; "Scott Eginton" 
<yachtscott at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 4:17 PM
Subject: [Fot] Its alive - Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!


> After 18 months of planning, parts gathering and building, my old 3 
> started as if it had been running yesterday. It actually startled the #@%% 
> out of me firing before 3 complete revolutions. No priming,  backfiring, 
> changing the timing 180 degrees or anything I had prepared myself for. I 
> do not think it even missed a beat for the entire 20 minute breakin. I'm 
> so friggen happy I am beside myself!!!
>
> First I'd like to thank my producer... but seriously, Joe Alexander, Tony 
> Drews, Kas, Bill Babcock, Russ Moore - the list goes on and on... were 
> talking lightened rods, NOS Pistons - parts parts parts - fixtures for 
> boring... guidance on building a trap door pan, porting and 10,000 other 
> questions. A hearty thanks to all the offline interaction that helped me 
> do it right the first time.
>
> There is a dark side - when I retorqued the head hot, a headbolt that my 
> machinest helicoiled in my new block (rear drivers side bolt under the 
> rocker assy) topped out at 90 ft lbs so I stopped for now. I will likely 
> be going back in again this summer or next winter but unless someone sees 
> something seriously detrimental, I will probably get a few Sunday drives 
> in before I see piston tops again...
>
> Cheers from Ithaca,
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Apr 24 19:07:45 2010
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 01:07:45 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com><C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000><56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41><F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
Message-ID: <197485199-1272157649-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-66721007-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have header flanges... I purchased stahl preformed pipes and made my own.  Easy to do if motor is on engine stand. 

M
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:05:07 
To: 'Bob Kramer'<rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>; 'Spitfire Racing'<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: 'Friends of triumph'<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

I'm getting pretty close to
making my own.
Mordy, do you still have the
flanges ?

Jim G

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer
[mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
3:47 PM
To: Jim Gray; 'Spitfire
Racing'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


I have been bouncing my header
off the ground in my TR4A too.
I have an old 
Hooker Header and it just sits
too far under the frame for
off track 
excursions. If someone makes a
better one for the application
I'd like to 
know about it.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable,
but if we chase perfection we
can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: "'Spitfire Racing'"
<Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of triumph"
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header


> The problem is there is a
> question as to whether Stahl
> makes one for the IRS car.
> jg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spitfire Racing
>
[mailto:Spitfire_Racing at twcny.
> rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:24 AM
> To: 'Jim Gray'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS
> header
>
> Jim, It's worth the wait to
> hear back from Stahl.
They're
> top shelf and do
> build horsepower. Pieces
like
> Monza are crap and a waste
of
> money. Also,
> avoid a place by the name of
> Paco somewhere down south.
> Alabama I think!I
> run a Stahl and was amazed
at
> the quality and fit.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> fot-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
> .net] On
> Behalf Of Jim Gray
> Sent: Saturday, April 24,
2010
> 10:14 AM
> To: 'fot'
> Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header
>
> I need a descent header for
an
> IRS/TR4. The one I have now
is
> costing me ground clearance.
>
> I tried Stahl but the gal on
> the phone didn't know
anything
> about a header for the IRS
> car.
>
> She suggested I contact
Steve
> Stahl after hours. That
didn't
> work so I left a message.
>
> Anyhoo, no response so does
> anyone know of a source for
a
> custom header
>
> somewhere near the price of
> the Stahl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim G
>
______________________________
> _________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
>
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
> l
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>
options/fot/spitfire_racing at tw
> cny.rr.com
>
______________________________
_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.htm
l
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/
options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr
.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gasket.works at gte.net


From stlnyc at msn.com  Sat Apr 24 19:32:32 2010
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:32:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>,
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>,
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>,
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>,
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>,
	<20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT125-W2078E30D8677DC1B531D1DDA050@phx.gbl>

From: stlnyc at msn.com
To: tony at tonydrews.com
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:30:02 -0600



Amici-

The difference between the TR-4 and TR-4A is the mounting brackets for the
lower a-arms.  The 4 has the old TR-3 mountings whereas the 4A has the TR-6
type brackets that go inside of the frame rail.  In the case of the Stahl
header for the 4, it wouldn't clear the mounting bracket.  Too much material
would have to be removed from the bracket to clear the header which
could/would prove unsafe.  Altering the header for clearance would screw up
the flow.

Fred Hodgson

> Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:42:55 -0500
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> From: tony at tonydrews.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
>
> Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header
> between a 4 and a 4A? I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
> >I'm getting pretty close to
> >making my own.
> >Mordy, do you still have the
> >flanges ?
> >
> >Jim G
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stlnyc at msn.com


From ablake2 at austin.rr.com  Sat Apr 24 19:48:30 2010
From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:48:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000>
	<006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com>
	<C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000>
	<56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41>
	<F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000>
	<20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>

Why would that be?  Does the block sit lower relative to the frame in a 4a?

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 5:43 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS header

Just for my background knowledge, what's the difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm gathering that it should be shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Apr 24 21:30:24 2010
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 21:30:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4/IRS header
In-Reply-To: <000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>
References: <AC5F70063B9F427AAA0068A95DFE4C61@hal9000><006101cae3ca$7f84a9a0$7e8dfce0$@rr.com><C2E0ABE5ADE44945A7607D696DEDAE6E@hal9000><56B67310090D45908C23E4AB155C4FC8@latitudefb1e41><F82E41560D7B402B912C7741C66488F0@hal9000><20100424224156.2314818764F@autox.team.net>
	<000501cae419$68232710$38697530$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>

Fred said it all. A
significant amount of material
would need to be removed from
the frame or clearance the
tube. I'll build my own before
I do that.
Jim G.

-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On Behalf Of Greg &
Alison Blake
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
7:49 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Why would that be?  Does the
block sit lower relative to
the frame in a 4a?

-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team
.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010
5:43 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4/IRS
header

Just for my background
knowledge, what's the
difference in the header 
between a 4 and a 4A?  I'm
gathering that it should be
shorter for the 4A?

Thanks, Tony

At 05:05 PM 4/24/2010, Jim
Gray wrote:
>I'm getting pretty close to
>making my own.
>Mordy, do you still have the
>flanges ?
>
>Jim G
<snip>
______________________________
_________________
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From mdhado at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 06:41:54 2010
From: mdhado at comcast.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:41:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>
Message-ID: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Apr 25 07:57:30 2010
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 08:57:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C080B01A2E964374BFE31345A47937B3@latitudefb1e41>

I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I 
couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see 
that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was 
able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder to 
identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the stud 
hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he 
created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have 
spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the 
block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I 
manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the 
set screws, or just left them alone.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 25 08:39:34 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:39:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <EC0D5656-9487-4642-B598-D947D9F78C0D@earthlink.net>

Questions,
Is the engine being freshly built on the stand or is the head being  
replaced with the engine in the car?
As the head was being torqued on, one of the long studs pulled up  
through its threads deep in the block?

~Steve


On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:41 AM, M&M Hado wrote:

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown  
man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not  
the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Apr 25 11:15:19 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:15:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <1FA10212C7C944AF887641414ACBEA3A@hal9000>
	<NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001e01cae49a$e32798c0$a976ca40$@com>

I saw once that a guy had made a new thread on the top of the block and used
a short bolt instead of a long one.
Did work as far I know.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von M&M Hado
Gesendet: Sonntag, 25. April 2010 14:42
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block

A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.

Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From harmug at us.ibm.com  Sun Apr 25 13:23:40 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 15:23:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>

Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
rebuild.

Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.

The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
the stock manifold.

Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?

thanks
mike



G. Michael Harmuth


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr 25 13:32:43 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:32:43 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@
	us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>

If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / fuel 
issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it off in 
timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.

If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be able 
to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris can 
clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.

- Tony

At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
>Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
>fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>rebuild.
>
>Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
>0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
>cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
>positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
>piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
>Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
>than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>
>The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
>compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
>who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
>the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
>clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
>rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
>inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
>hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
>the stock manifold.
>
>Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>
>thanks
>mike
>
>
>
>G. Michael Harmuth
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 13:39:28 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 09:39:28 -1000
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>

I'd also look for a massive air leak.
On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:

> If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / fuel issue.
Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it off in timing by a tooth
can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.
>
> If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be able to see a
little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris can clog the passage from
the float bowl to the jet.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
>> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
>> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>> rebuild.
>>
>> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
>> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Apr 25 13:48:00 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:48:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
	<967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>

That's an excellent point.  On the TR-4, there are pins on the side 
of the head the that fit into the intake manifold.  If you misalign 
the manifold a bit you can end up with the bottom of the manifold 
held away from the head by the pins leaving a huge gap - easy to make 
that mistake.

- Tony

At 02:39 PM 4/25/2010, Bill Babcock wrote:
>I'd also look for a massive air leak.
>On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / 
> fuel issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it 
> off in timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start too.
> >
> > If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be 
> able to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris 
> can clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.
> >
> > - Tony
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
> >> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
> >> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
> >> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
> >> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> >> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> >> rebuild.
> >>
> >> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
> >> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
> >> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
> >> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 13:50:11 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:50:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
References: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <87AB633423D049A0BD9097356626114B@Bud>

if your timing is way off you won't have vaccum to suck the gas in..maybe 
your distributor is way out..
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:23 PM
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild


> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. Confirmed
> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> rebuild.
>
> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port (flat
> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
> cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
> positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
> piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
> Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has less
> than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>
> The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
> compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
> who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re fired
> the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
> clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
> rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
> inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
> hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
> the stock manifold.
>
> Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>
> thanks
> mike
>
>
>
> G. Michael Harmuth
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 13:52:59 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:52:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
Message-ID: <41CDC82B321C4C249183F5F81361D319@Bud>

also..if you've got a single carb it must be a stromberg...be sure that the 
rubber diaphram is seated properly(with the notch in the correct spot)..and 
be sure it is not split..if you have a split in the rubber the car might 
start and then die almost immedietly .
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RACER BUD" <budscars at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>; "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild


> if your timing is way off you won't have vaccum to suck the gas in..maybe 
> your distributor is way out..
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "George Harmuth" <harmug at us.ibm.com>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:23 PM
> Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
>
>
>> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild of
>> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The car
>> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own. 
>> Confirmed
>> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
>> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
>> rebuild.
>>
>> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port 
>> (flat
>> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check, putting
>> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed the
>> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
>> cover and plugs, verified ( multiple times) cam to TDC on cylinder 1
>> positions. The valves open in the correct sequence with respect to the
>> piston position, rechecked the valve clearance, are all set to .015.
>> Compression is a little low (1-4, 110.115,118,115) but the engine has 
>> less
>> than a minute of run time, I expect it will rise a bit as it breaks in.
>>
>> The engine was working before the rebuild but it had low (ave 70Lbs)
>> compression on 3 cylinders. I found 3 broken top rings, I suspect the PO,
>> who had the car sitting for years, didn't do a proper job when he re 
>> fired
>> the motor before he put it up for sale and the rings broke. The block was
>> clean, looked like a recent (milage wise) rebuild on it but we replaced
>> rings, bearings, new valves and springs etc.. The cylinder bore was
>> inspected, measured and honed. The only parts not stock were a little
>> hotter grind on the cam, nothing radical and a Maniflow header to replace
>> the stock manifold.
>>
>> Any idea where I screwed up or what I can check before I do a teardown?
>>
>> thanks
>> mike
>>
>>
>>
>> G. Michael Harmuth
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Apr 25 14:08:06 2010
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:08:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
Message-ID: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
 
 
I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the  
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed  
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Apr 25 14:08:30 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <007b01cae4b3$14489360$3cd9ba20$@com>

Probably interference between the intake and exhaust manifold didn't let the
intake manifold seal to the head.
Perhaps the new header flange needs "adjustment"?
Been there!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 25 16:26:24 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:26:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BD4C190.1060107@bradakis.com>

When I did it for Killer, I used a "bleed screw repair kit" I found in a bin
of brass bits at a local NAPA store.  I imagine a google search might
turn up something useful.

mjb.


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 25 17:22:46 2010
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:22:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>

Hey Steve

Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl  
with a speed bleeder on one end?

~Steve

On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!


I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove  
the
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From bownes at seiri.com  Sun Apr 25 17:43:46 2010
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:43:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <v2pd9f7bd331004251643k4c7bbe38jdf88455108aa7f87@mail.gmail.com>

I'm sure chris kantarjiecpv will chime in, but iirc, he ran a length
of braided hose up the firewall to a fitting.



On 4/25/10, Steven Belfer <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hey Steve
>
> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl
> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>
> ~Steve
>
> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>
>
> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove
> the
> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From mdhado at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 18:24:24 2010
From: mdhado at comcast.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:24:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <C080B01A2E964374BFE31345A47937B3@latitudefb1e41>
Message-ID: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>

Thanks, Bob & others who sent comments.

One idea was to get an oversize stud, at least on one end, and helicoil at
the top of the block and use a short stud.  I wouldn't want to enlarge the
hole in the head though so this would be a custom stud with different sizes
on each end.

If there were only a few threads engaged the first time around, maybe
cleaning up the bottom of the hole and chasing the treads might get enough
bite to try again.  It's in an engine stand so access is good.  He's going
to try this and if that fails, he already has found another head.  That's
probably his best choice anyway.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:58 AM
To: M&M Hado; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I
couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see
that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was
able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder to
identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the stud
hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he
created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have
spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the
block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I
manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the
set screws, or just left them alone.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message -----
From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block


>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Apr 25 18:25:42 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:25:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com><F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
	<v2pd9f7bd331004251643k4c7bbe38jdf88455108aa7f87@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D8B0829E138340AC9809ACE7EC1EEE2D@Bud>

Hi Gang...if it's a racecar, the tunnel only needs 2 screws on the floor, 
and 1 bolt on the firewall to hold it in..that's what I have on my 
spitfire..it takes about 1-2 minutes to take off the tunnel..I suggest 
simplifying rather than complicating
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "Steven Belfer" <colordog.1 at earthlink.net>; <Gt6steve at aol.com>; 
<FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder


> I'm sure chris kantarjiecpv will chime in, but iirc, he ran a length
> of braided hose up the firewall to a fitting.
>
>
>
> On 4/25/10, Steven Belfer <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Hey Steve
>>
>> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl
>> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>>
>> ~Steve
>>
>> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>>
>>
>> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove
>> the
>> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
>> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 20:20:08 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:20:08 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>

I think I'd try a bottoming tap first. You'd have to make a super long one,
but that's not too hard. Maybe drop a thin pilot in and drill a little deeper.
The pilot would keep the drill from thinning out the existing threads. I have
no idea how close to breakthrough they took these holes at the factory, but I
bet there's some kind of margin, and I'm not sure what the problem would be
with breaking through anyway. If you could pick up a half inch of thread room
you'd be in pretty good shape. Perhaps if you DID drill through you could
helicoil from the inside. Or just get a good block and have at it.

On Apr 25, 2010, at 2:24 PM, M&M Hado wrote:

> Thanks, Bob & others who sent comments.
>
> One idea was to get an oversize stud, at least on one end, and helicoil at
> the top of the block and use a short stud.  I wouldn't want to enlarge the
> hole in the head though so this would be a custom stud with different sizes
> on each end.
>
> If there were only a few threads engaged the first time around, maybe
> cleaning up the bottom of the hole and chasing the treads might get enough
> bite to try again.  It's in an engine stand so access is good.  He's going
> to try this and if that fails, he already has found another head.  That's
> probably his best choice anyway.
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Kramer [mailto:rkramer3 at austin.rr.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:58 AM
> To: M&M Hado; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
>
>
> I had one block were a previous owner must have done the same thing, I
> couldn't get two studs to turn. The one in the front was easy, I could see
> that a hole had been drilled and tapped from the side of the block an I was
> able to get the set screw out after much effort. The long stud was harder
to
> identify and I finally figured out that the guy had drilled through the
stud
> hole into the bottom end and tapped that hole to match a threaded hole he
> created in the long stud. After all that I junked the block because I have
> spares, but if this is a restoration this technique would probably save the
> block. Truth be told, if I just knew about the locked down studs before I
> manhandled them trying to get them out I probably could have easy-outed the
> set screws, or just left them alone.
>
> Bob Kramer
> Volente, TX
>
> Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch
> excellence.
> Vince Lombardi
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M&M Hado" <mdhado at comcast.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:41 AM
> Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
>
>
>> A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>> deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>> cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>> first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 25 20:29:05 2010
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:29:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
In-Reply-To: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <433243.61731.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <976191.24797.qm@web46102.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Well it sure is looking like it was the water pump.  Also the header could
could have contributed to the problem.   Thanks to Greg Hilyer (lots of phone
conversations) and Tony Drews for the extra help.   Thanks to all the FOT
folks who pointed out to look at the water pump.  I will get it back running
next weekend and we will see.  At least I am getting to know my way around the
TR.  I had to laugh at my driveway last weekend.  A TR4 a Fiero and a 62
Corvair Greenbrier van.  We are the wierd car folks in the neighbor hood.
Mike




________________________________
From: Mike Mehl
<mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri,
April 23, 2010 6:28:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 head gasket leak today at PIR
Well;
I have been chasing some weird cooling issues which I though I has
sorted out.  Trailerd down to Portland Intl.  made it one lap.  Didn't
overheat it but squirted water out the overflow tank.  I did not build the
engine and this is my first triumph.  I had some off line discussions with a
few FOT folks trying to sort this out.  Like I said I thought I had it fixed.
I understand there are a few tricks to assembling the head gasket.  It is
leaking to the outside in the right front of the head.  

Looking for some
tips on replacing the head gasket. 

thanks!!!!!

Mike Mehl
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 25 20:33:24 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:33:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOCEDDFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<8743FF94-674E-4385-B242-1264C8843C8C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <11ca01cae4e8$d8c400f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I think I'd try a bottoming tap first. You'd have to make a 
> super long one,
> but that's not too hard. 

There are tap extensions that should fit; or I've had pretty good luck
finding a 1/4" drive socket that will work.  (All those x/32 sizes had to be
good for something!)

If that doesn't work, my approach would be to just Helicoil & be done with
it.

Or find another block.

Randall


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Sun Apr 25 20:56:58 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:56:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>

I have no opinion on this and no experience with this product... but I 
thought I'd throw it in the mix for discussion....  Follow link...  
--Justin 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF



M&M Hado wrote:

>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sun Apr 25 21:00:54 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:00:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1272218401.30630.fot@autox.team.net>
	<OF741367AA.30384AE5-ON85257710.0066C981-85257710.006A89AC@us.ibm.com>
	<20100425193146.351D3187881@autox.team.net>
	<967156A3-F957-4A1C-B321-B9666C8181E1@bnj.com>
	<20100425194658.DEB66187881@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cae4ec$b10637f0$1312a7d0$@com>

Ryan can also attest to the problem caused when the intake manifold on the
TR4 is not seated on the pins properly!  If you've got SU's you should be
able to see the pistons moving up and down quite a bit as you are cranking
it with the ignition shut off.  If not, you've got a massive intake leak
someplace.  Now we check to see if the pistons on the SU's are moving up and
down after we have the manifolds off to make sure we don't have that
problem.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 2:48 PM
To: Bill Babcock
Cc: fot at autox.team.net; George Harmuth
Subject: Re: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild

That's an excellent point.  On the TR-4, there are pins on the side 
of the head the that fit into the intake manifold.  If you misalign 
the manifold a bit you can end up with the bottom of the manifold 
held away from the head by the pins leaving a huge gap - easy to make 
that mistake.

- Tony

At 02:39 PM 4/25/2010, Bill Babcock wrote:
>I'd also look for a massive air leak.
>On Apr 25, 2010, at 9:32 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > If it runs on starting fluid, it sure seems like a carburetion / 
> fuel issue.  Did you "degree" the cam when assembling?  Having it 
> off in timing by a tooth can make it run like crap and be hard to start
too.
> >
> > If you've got SU carb's, with the piston removed you should be 
> able to see a little fuel in the jet tube.  A little bit of debris 
> can clog the passage from the float bowl to the jet.
> >
> > - Tony
> >
> > At 02:23 PM 4/25/2010, George Harmuth wrote:
> >> Time query the collective again. My son and I just finished a rebuild
of
> >> his 72 Spitfire (1296, large journal) and I can't get it to run.  The
car
> >> will start up on starting fluid but won't even fire on it's own.
Confirmed
> >> fresh gas to carb, gas in fuel bowl, disassembled carb, cleaned and
> >> inspected, looks OK and was working (rebuilt last summer) before engine
> >> rebuild.
> >>
> >> Think I've tracked it down to no vacuum, either from the vacuum port
(flat
> >> 0 reading on gauge, no fluctuations ) on the carb or gross check,
putting
> >> my hand (or carb sync gauge) over the mouth of the carb. I've removed
the
> >> carb and intake manifold, gaskets etc all look good. Removed the valve
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sun Apr 25 21:04:04 2010
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:04:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>

Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a repaired stud.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Justin Wagner
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:57 PM
To: M&M Hado
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block

I have no opinion on this and no experience with this product... but I 
thought I'd throw it in the mix for discussion....  Follow link...  
--Justin 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF



M&M Hado wrote:

>A friend just stripped one of the long cylinder head stud threads in the
>deep hole when the torque got to 90 ft-lb.  It was hard seeing a grown man
>cry.  My first thought is that the block is toast.  I'm sure he's not the
>first so are there any suggestions for a fix?  It's a street TR4A.
>
>Mike
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jmwagner at greenheart.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr 25 21:18:12 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 23:18:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4BD505F4.9030204@bright.net>

List, we make a remote bleeder set up for most Brit cars. Ted


Steven Belfer wrote:
> Hey Steve
>
> Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl 
> with a speed bleeder on one end?
>
> ~Steve
>
> On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!
>
>
> I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the
> tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
> end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net


From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Sun Apr 25 21:36:25 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:36:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
References: <4d1f1.539e4b87.3905fb26@aol.com>
	<F04A7F68-AA16-401E-88CD-81B2038EB1AF@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9E294433479248EC8BF13381E7AB6675@jrg>

Whatever line you ran up from the slave would need an end with the proper
taper fitting to "terminate" the line.   Maybe not too tough.. But if Ted S
has a setup, maybe it's simpler (aka cheaper) than figuring your own?

On my Spitfire(s) I cheat and use the "2x4" bleeding method.  A 2x4 to push
the clutch pedal to the floor.   Let it sit a day or 4 and that's usually
enough to get the air out of the line.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfire(s) 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Belfer
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 6:23 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] remote clutch bleeder

Hey Steve

Could you run a length of braided brake line from the Clutch slave cyl with
a speed bleeder on one end?

~Steve

On Apr 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

Amici,  I've gone brain dead today!


I want to rig a remote bleed point for the clutch so as to not remove the
tunnel cover when required.  Everything specs out easily until the bleed
end.  Anybody got a recommendation for a slick  solution?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.805 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2834 - Release Date: 04/25/10
13:31:00


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Apr 25 21:42:33 2010
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:42:33 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net>
	<4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
	<000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
Message-ID: <13451F39-C4BE-460C-9C77-79AC39D72130@bnj.com>

Truth be told, you could probably clean the hole out really good, coat the
stud liberally with JB weld, pump the hole full and call it good. It would
probably hold until the heat death of the universe.

On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:04 PM, Tim Murphy wrote:

> Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a repaired stud.
>
> Tim


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 26 00:17:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 23:17:39 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Stripped Threads in Block
In-Reply-To: <000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
References: <NMEHJMAIKGLOPIMPEKNOOECLFDAA.mdhado@comcast.net><4BD500FA.7070202@greenheart.com>
	<000101cae4ed$21a3de90$64eb9bb0$@com>
Message-ID: <11f501cae508$2c8d3070$0301a8c0@randall>

> Be interesting to know how much torque this would hold on a 
> repaired stud.

Doesn't seem likely that it would be much  stronger with a stud than with a
bolt ... the figures in the file Justin linked to say about 16 ftlb for a
1/2" bolt.

I've had much the same experience with JB Weld.  It's marvelous stuff, but
it's strength is closer to hard plastic than steel.

Randall


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 08:29:23 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:29:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
Message-ID: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
list?

Thanks,

Bob Adams


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Mon Apr 26 08:35:46 2010
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:35:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon Apr 26 09:04:49 2010
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:04:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to move
them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They gave
me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them. I'm OK with
copying as long as it's not for sale as I will someday put the 6 or so I have
left on eBay. I think I sold them for $15.00 to recover the cost of having
them moved to VHS. Once I got my money covered I lost momentum and technology
moved on.

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
Ziglar



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Adams
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 9:29 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
list?

Thanks,

Bob Adams
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From herald948 at aol.com  Mon Apr 26 09:29:05 2010
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:29:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <8CCB36C57530DC9-20A4-174ED@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com>

 Do you mean casting number as in a number literally cast into the block, or
is it a stamped serial number?

Normally, the "FE" prefix would indicate an "emissions controlled" Spitfire
Mk3 1296 engine.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2010 10:35 am
Subject: [Fot] FE30830


Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/herald948 at aol.com


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 26 09:31:26 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:31:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>

> I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
> tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
move
> them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
gave
> me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.



> Bob Kramer


I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.



But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.



The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.



Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.



John H.


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon Apr 26 09:35:21 2010
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:35:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Your right, it was Cumberland. The Marlboro tape was very "Spritish".

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
Ziglar

________________________________
From: John Herrera [mailto:jrherrera90 at hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:31 AM
To: Kramer, Robert; Bob Adams; Friends of Triumph
Subject: RE: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

> I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the VHS
> tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
move
> them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
gave
> me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.

> Bob Kramer

I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.

But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.

The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.

Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.

John H.


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 26 09:43:09 2010
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:43:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A7194F1@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <497947.54903.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just a WAG .... But it sounds like a 69ish spit 3 to me ..


Tom

http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire

--- On Mon, 4/26/10, Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:


From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
Subject: [Fot] FE30830
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 9:35 AM


Morning,

Can anyone ID this engine with this casting number??

FE30830

Thanks!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 09:54:51 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:54:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E5EA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<COL119-W5D90F39F59B740FC88552A5040@phx.gbl>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A082FA1E6CA@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <o2w673993c51004260854ide1b422q386a666409148a97@mail.gmail.com>

Just found the rest of the posts in the archive. Case of mistaken identity.
Thanks for the corrections.

Bob

On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 11:35 AM, Kramer, Robert
<RKramer at rdoequipment.com>wrote:

>  Your right, it was Cumberland. The Marlboro tape was very Spritish.
>
>
>
> Bob Kramer
>
> Sales Manager
>
> RDO Equipment Company
>
> 16415 N. IH 35
>
> Pflugerville, TX 78660
>
> 512-272-4141
>
> *It's not what you've got, it's what you use that makes a difference.  Zig
> Ziglar*
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* John Herrera [mailto:jrherrera90 at hotmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 10:31 AM
> *To:* Kramer, Robert; Bob Adams; Friends of Triumph
> *Subject:* RE: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT
> archives
>
>
>
> > I bought the original tapes on eBay and had them converted over to the
> VHS
> > tapes. I still have a few. I can't remember who it was but they wanted to
> move
> > them over to DVD for a Marlboro event. I think that's what it was. They
> gave
> > me a copy in return for saying yes. They may still have them.
>
> > Bob Kramer
>
> I was the one who had the videotape put on DVD for the Marlboro Reunion.
>
> But the film was not of Buzz Marcus at Marlboro. There were no TR4s on the
> tape at Marlboro. Lots of Sprites.
>
> The Cumberland Airport part has TR4s, but I don't know if one is Marcus.
> There's a Group 44 TR$ and Dennis Riley's TR4. Maybe some others.
>
> Thanks for making these tapes available, Bob.
>
> John H.


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Mon Apr 26 10:02:44 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:02:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>

Buzz lives in south Florida and I have run into him a couple of times at Moroso and Sebring. He was racing an RX7. In the early days he briefly raced an early Sunbeam and then on to TR's and Toyota's. I remember him well. He owned a TR/Toyota dealership in Glenside, PA while I was a general manager at a competing dearlership down the road, Maginnis Imported Cars (TR, Jaguar, Rover, MG), in Horsham, PA., circa early 1980's.

Bob
1957 TR3

 
---- Bob Adams <adams910 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Does anyone have or can make a copy of the '66 Marlboro video covering Buzz
> Marcus's and Group 44's TR4 that was talked about a few years back on this
> list?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob Adams
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 26 10:08:30 2010
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT  archives
In-Reply-To: <20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
Message-ID: <q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

He's racing a RX-8 in Improved Touring R now. It's a blue and yellow car.
Neat little fact; The Toyota he raced (and Dick Stockton built) in IMSA was
the first Toyota to win a professional event in North America.

On a different note, I was looking for video from this past SCCA VIR
National, and found these
http://www.youtube.com/user/pylon256#p/u/0/mYfHZvnv9bo . They should be of
interest to some of you.


Thanks,

Bob Adams


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Apr 26 10:24:57 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 18:24:57 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives
In-Reply-To: <q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2r673993c51004260729zead8c7b8t8159c00eabbe9443@mail.gmail.com>
	<20100426160244.TKO2Z.176740.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
	<q2v673993c51004260908raa0d369ckc609966c4c5f1437@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c001cae55d$05ba11c0$112e3540$@com>

Be you might would like to have a look on this:
http://www.tr4-racing.de/pic/buzz/Index.html

Cheers
Chris


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bob Adams
Gesendet: Montag, 26. April 2010 18:09
An: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Buzz Marcus vs Group 44 Marlboro video: in FOT archives

Bob,

He's racing a RX-8 in Improved Touring R now. It's a blue and yellow car.
Neat little fact; The Toyota he raced (and Dick Stockton built) in IMSA was
the first Toyota to win a professional event in North America.

On a different note, I was looking for video from this past SCCA VIR
National, and found these
http://www.youtube.com/user/pylon256#p/u/0/mYfHZvnv9bo . They should be of
interest to some of you.


Thanks,

Bob Adams
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon Apr 26 17:15:21 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for
 VTR??
In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1271700002.8061.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4BD61E89.9020408@charter.net>

Thanks to all for the advice on fixing the rear axle clunk in the car. 
The car should show up in my driveway sometime this week. We'll see how 
much of a job it is.
I have repaired many of these but on frame off restorations.

Just made reservations at the Jekyll club resort hotel. See you at VTR

Glenn

Glenn Franco wrote:
> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired 
> cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still 
> on the frame?
> I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the 
> best method has been.
> I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to 
> repair it.
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> 3 6's Tr250 and Spits
> Also
> What's the host hotel for VTR 2010??
> Thanks
>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91
>> ************************************


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Tue Apr 27 08:52:05 2010
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:52:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] No vacuum after Spitfire engine rebuild-fixed
Message-ID: <OF9B354FFE.1DF8B0A7-ON85257712.00512804-85257712.0051AC40@us.ibm.com>

I found a clogged choke port inside the carb (single semi-smog Stromberg
1.5"). If I hadn't just done a rebuild and suspected the worse I would have
looked closer at the carb. I have the engine running and ready for a break
in trip this weekend.

 Thanks all the helpful tips and pointers.

mike

G. Michael Harmuth

assorted Spitfires and a  GT6


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Apr 27 15:11:20 2010
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:11:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed
Message-ID: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Can someout out there tell me what the thread sizes are for the following
components on a spitfire...my car is 900 miles away so I don't have easy
access...



Inner Tie rod thread to ball joint

bolt for the Radius rod attachment to the chassis bracket or to the vertical
link

boltB through the spring at the top of the vertical link



aaron


From jgambony at gcecisp.com  Tue Apr 27 17:52:01 2010
From: jgambony at gcecisp.com (Jim Gambony)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:52:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed
In-Reply-To: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1101141221.20656291272402680564.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F15DF99F19904F9B966177501DD1B90A@jrg>

Aaron,

Radius arm to pivot brackets and links-   3/8"x24 tpi x 2 1/4" bolt
Spring to vertical link   7/16"x20 bolt approx 3" (factory manual didn't
list length)
Inner Tie Rod to outer tie rod thread 1/2x20 thread


HTH


Jim
Dallas

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of fpspitfire at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 4:11 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] spitfire bolt/thread sizes needed

Can someout out there tell me what the thread sizes are for the following
components on a spitfire...my car is 900 miles away so I don't have easy
access...



Inner Tie rod thread to ball joint

bolt for the Radius rod attachment to the chassis bracket or to the vertical
link

boltB through the spring at the top of the vertical link



aaron
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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No virus found in this incoming message.
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13:27:00


From jibjib at att.net  Wed Apr 28 23:20:09 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 22:20:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 intake flanges
Message-ID: <BC06BFEDB29A42A9AF0014B4EE173EF5@hpa1477c>

Does anyone make a steel intake flange for the TR3/4 engine?

 

I'm playing around with an induction system and don't have the capability to
weld aluminum, especially the thickness of the OEM flange, so I'd like to
find a steel flange to use, at least until I've proven it out.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jack


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Apr 29 07:55:45 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 09:55:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hoosier C9000 SliX
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1004290947560.5546@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

If anyone out there is running the "new design" C9000 (I think that's what 
they're called) Hoosier bias-ply slicks, I'd be most interested in sharing 
setup information.

I put a set of the previous style Hossier slicks on a couple years ago, 
and I felt like my times were off by a second or so from when I ran 
Goodyear bias slicks (cantelever).

My "consultant" thinks I should switch to radial slicks. Umm, no. That 
means buying 8 10" wide rims. I already have a stack of 7"... plus the 
settings are totally different than bias so I'd have to buy drys and 
rains...

My big problem is that the input is very vague and you have to more or 
less slide the car everywhere. I lose tons of times getting the car to 
take a set. The GY's were INSTANT when you turned in. No slidey thing 
going on at all unless you were very, very far out of shape.

My brakes suck too, perhaps that's the bigger part of the equation and 
I'll look into that. But these tires are not to my liking at the present.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Apr 29 09:42:47 2010
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:42:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
Message-ID: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello all, 
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
Thanks, 
Dave H. 


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 29 10:37:46 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100429163746.NRPBT.243571.root@cdptpa-web20-z02>

I think you may find the inside edge of the spring pan resting against the spring tower. If that is the case, TR6 spring pans cure the problem since they are a different shape at the back edge.

Bob

---- davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Hello all, 
> I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
> Thanks, 
> Dave H. 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu Apr 29 11:04:26 2010
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:04:26 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001b01cae7be$06c42200$144c6600$@com>

If you run some negative camber you get to the limit of the upper ball joint
movement.
I did fit a 8mm rubber on the bumpers to avoid stressing the ball joint.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von davehogye
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 29. April 2010 17:43
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue

Hello all,
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my
TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring
pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball
joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball
joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the
suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess
that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave H.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 29 11:50:07 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:50:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR4A ball joint issue
In-Reply-To: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1917165567.16407951272555767830.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <856042.19179.qm@web81708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Did you also change the TR3 trunnions to those of the TR4 ( 3degrees of caster)?

Dennis


Hello all, 
I've noticed after installing TR4A upper control arms and ball joints on my TR3, that the suspension no longer rests on the bumpers below the spring pan. The ball joints do not allow full extension. I purchased the ball joints from The Roadster Factory. I'm wondering if another suppliers ball joints might allow more movement. It sure doesn't seem good to me that the suspension at full extension should rest against the ball joint. I guess that a taller bumper could be used. Any tips or info on this matter would be appreciated. 
Thanks, 
Dave H. 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu Apr 29 13:46:14 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:46:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4BD9E206.2050606@bright.net>

We will beat Carlisle. Spaces E63 & E64. If you have something you need 
for me to bring out, please let me know.Save on shipping - especially if 
a large item(s). Will be there Thursday afternoon through late Saturday 
afternoon. Will have steelbraid hoses, suspension components, our gear 
reduction starters and much more. Please come by and say hello. Thanks,Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 29 14:56:12 2010
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:56:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Hoosier C9000 SliX
Message-ID: <666573.14040.qm@web46106.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I too have tried the Hoosiers slicks several times and I have found that I was just as fast on their dot tires as I was on their slicks that were larger. I don't know what the deal was on that. Inhave always liked the GY slicks better.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 29, 2010, at 8:55 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

Hi,

If anyone out there is running the "new design" C9000 (I think that's what they're called) Hoosier bias-ply slicks, I'd be most interested in sharing setup information.

I put a set of the previous style Hossier slicks on a couple years ago, and I felt like my times were off by a second or so from when I ran Goodyear bias slicks (cantelever).

My "consultant" thinks I should switch to radial slicks. Umm, no. That means buying 8 10" wide rims. I already have a stack of 7"... plus the settings are totally different than bias so I'd have to buy drys and rains...

My big problem is that the input is very vague and you have to more or less slide the car everywhere. I lose tons of times getting the car to take a set. The GY's were INSTANT when you turned in. No slidey thing going on at all unless you were very, very far out of shape.

My brakes suck too, perhaps that's the bigger part of the equation and I'll look into that. But these tires are not to my liking at the present.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 29 21:51:33 2010
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:51:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
Message-ID: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

AMICI - sorry to bomb the list

Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
Thanks
Dennis DeLap here in Illinois


From dave at microworks.net  Fri Apr 30 00:12:55 2010
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 23:12:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>

Austin America oddity.

Two weekends ago was the BEAT Rally.  One of the prizes they give each 
year is for the most desirable car.  There are two Judges.  One whom 
drives a car from the "Continent" and the other Judge drives a car from 
the "Isles".  They are supposed to pick the car (about 150 to choose 
from) that they like the best.  The critera is simple.

"If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the 
ignition which car would you take."

This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America (page 2, 
right side row 3 near the E-Type, Bentley, A-H 3000)  .  It was a nice 
example no doubt but....

Look over the Photo Gallery of cars that were on the trip and tell me if 
it would have been your choice too.

http://www.beataz.com

Here is the Gallery of the cars on the road.  You can select the other 
2010 Photo Sections (and previous years) from the Galleries menu

FYI: I was driving the 63k original miles 1975 Maserati Merak shown on 
photo page 4 on the bottom left near the red Ferrari Daytona, black 
Porsche 935, yellow Lamborghini Gallardo, etc...

On 4/29/2010 8:51 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> AMICI - sorry to bomb the list
>
> Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
> ...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
> Thanks
> Dennis DeLap here in Illinois


From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Apr 30 10:22:52 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:22:52 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BDB03DC.9060107@dfn.com>

Dennis DeLap wrote:
> AMICI - sorry to bomb the list
>
> Charly Mitchell in the Tacoma area would you contact me off list - I have an Austin America question for you.
> ...or anyone else who knows these Austins.
>   

My ex-wife had an MG1100 (pretty much same-same), and before we were 
married, that was my very first engine rebuild, in which I think I 
forgot to put in the thrust washers, because, afterwards, it pumped oil 
out the rear main seal every time it was clutched. :)


Much later, I worked at a Toyota dealership in Florida, the service 
manager of which was an irascible fellow by the name of Bill Campbell, 
who once had a BMC-VW-Porsche dealership of his own, but had eventually 
lost it because he was paying more attention to his Super Vee racing 
than to business. He once said that BMC had arranged a mandatory 
motivational sales meeting for the Southeast region because sales 
weren't going well.  Professional marketing motivators were hired, and 
all weekend, the assembled were pummeled with the theme, "RMA," or,  
"Right Mental Attitude."  Finally, weary of this, because they all knew 
why sales were bad (the lousy reputation of the car in question), when 
the motivator shouted at them, "what does RMA stand for?!,"  in unison, 
they shouted back, "REPAIR MY AMERICA!"


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri Apr 30 11:23:18 2010
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:23:18 -0600
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS12FA8D85454269A349EB67B7000@phx.gbl>

Recently I had to swap out my water temp gauge. I have heard that the sending
unit that came with it needs to be in place for accurate readings. I've been
seeing a higher than usual reading is the reason for my question. The existing
tapped port is a #6 Brit parallel thread according to my local Parker Store
rep. instead of 3/8x18 pipe thread.
thanks in advance,

Kevin


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 30 11:50:29 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>
References: <476076.2024.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4BDA74E7.7080605@microworks.net>
Message-ID: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>

> "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> ignition which car would you take."
> 
> This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America

Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>

I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
just!

-- Randall 


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Apr 30 13:22:15 2010
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 15:22:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100430192215.0863H.261209.root@cdptpa-web26-z01>

I had one in automatic where the transmission shared oil with the engine. Not a bad ride.

Bob
57TR3
---- Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> > "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> > ignition which car would you take."
> > 
> > This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America
> 
> Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>
> 
> I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
> work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
> just!
> 
> -- Randall 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Fri Apr 30 13:22:29 2010
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:22:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Austin America question
In-Reply-To: <023301cae88d$9fb459b0$df1d0d10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <563020.87416.qm@web81206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I do remember years ago, at Roebling Road, Jack Woerle was running either an
MG 1100 or an Austin America. Ted S. and I were co-driving an 1147 Spitty, and
Jack was quite fast and a bear to get around in the turns when he was up on
two wheels. Very impressive from behind. Finally passed him on the front
straight.
Great fun!
-Ed-

--- On Fri, 4/30/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:


From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Austin America question
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 12:50 PM


> "If all the cars were in the parking lot gassed up with the keys in the
> ignition which car would you take."
>
> This year for some unknown reason they choose an Austin America

Maybe they figured it was the car least likely to be reported stolen! <G>

I drove one briefly, many years ago, as a friend had asked me to do some
work on it (new brakes and such).  Better than riding the bus, but only
just!

-- Randall
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Apr 30 14:22:44 2010
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:22:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question
References: <SNT123-DS12FA8D85454269A349EB67B7000@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CF66444D552249AD96B46C4F4C966FFD@Bud>

Hi Kevin..borrow a temperature gun and shoot it at the area where the 
sending unit goes into the radiator...see if the #s match..
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KEVIN LYNCH" <klynch_6 at msn.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] sending unit question


> Recently I had to swap out my water temp gauge. I have heard that the 
> sending
> unit that came with it needs to be in place for accurate readings. I've 
> been
> seeing a higher than usual reading is the reason for my question. The 
> existing
> tapped port is a #6 Brit parallel thread according to my local Parker 
> Store
> rep. instead of 3/8x18 pipe thread.
> thanks in advance,
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net