From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 17:32:51 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 19:32:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2008 SVRA Watkins Glen photos
Message-ID: <673993c50907011632y422ce5baxeff2a4bab54b4791@mail.gmail.com>

I found these online.. photos featuring Triumphs start on page 4.
http://www.chuckcarrollphotography.com/gallery/5937088_GcTME#P-4-24

Bob Adams

From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 19:48:10 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 21:48:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2008 SVRA Watkins Glen and other racing photos
Message-ID: <673993c50907011848v1e340f5clfc613afc0bb12002@mail.gmail.com>

I found these sites through searching or on other forums and thought I would
pass them along (most galleries have Triumph photo's).

http://michaeldipleco.smugmug.com/

http://www.prphotographyonline.com/f906572098

http://www.chuckcarrollphotography.com/gallery/5937088_GcTME#369863189_9e4vF

Bob Adams

From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 11:50:29 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
Message-ID: <44A09562A2BD41B59433ACA7CAFA283C@Bud>

from craig's list...Los Gatos, ca. ..40 miles south of San francisco
Racer Bud
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1249249036.html

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  2 12:28:20 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:28:20 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
Message-ID: <6247037.1246559300704.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Maybe John Nikas and his 24 hours of lemons class-winning TR7 crew is interested??

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2009 10:50 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
>
>from craig's list...Los Gatos, ca. ..40 miles south of San francisco
>Racer Bud
>http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1249249036.html
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From andre at gt6.ca  Thu Jul  2 20:32:55 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:32:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul  2 21:52:29 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:52:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <29E74DD0D62B49D29D1DC44FD4900496@joepentiumnew>

I don't think I am getting all the posts lately.  I see replies like this
one to posts that I never saw originally posted.  I think Mark has more
problems than just with AOL (which I am not on)!

But I would advise against flat towing a GT6 or Spit.  Even with the
driveshaft disconnected the rear wheels are turning and you would not be
able to hear any problems that might develop from the cab of the tow
vehicle.  The same applies with using a dolly.

The best thing is to get all 4 wheels off the ground.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 7:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 21:53:55 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:53:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C96379429F164795B98702B9EAA2511B@your4dacd0ea75>

I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which ties
the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side. 

I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
wheel...you only don't do this once...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 21:57:40 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:57:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>

Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your wheel
bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any real
problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for a long
time.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com] 
Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which ties
the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side. 

I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
wheel...you only don't do this once...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Jul  3 00:58:55 2009
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 23:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 1959 TR3A Triumph Street/Track - $8500 (willow glen /
	cambrian)
Message-ID: <4A4DAC2F.4070305@greenheart.com>

Noticed this on craigslist....  --Justin


1959 TR3A Triumph Street/Track - $8500 (willow glen / cambrian)
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1250516255.html

From andre at gt6.ca  Fri Jul  3 05:36:01 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 07:36:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks eveyone.

I'll forward your comments onwards.

For the race car I have been looking for options too.

I'll either go with a dolly;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Friday/slides/IMG_0198.html

or build a super light/simple trailer;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Saturday/slides/IMG_0257.html

But won't need one for a year.

A.

2009/7/2 Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>:
> Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your wheel
> bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any real
> problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for a long
> time.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
> To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
> take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which
ties
> the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
> was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
> through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side.
>
> I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
> lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
> caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
> wheel...you only don't do this once...
>
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
> Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.
>
> A.
> Date: 2009/7/2
> Subject: Towing a GT6
> To: andre at gt6.ca
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
> (all 4 wheels down)?
>
> I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
> steering will it track ok?
>
> My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
> bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
> and how?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  3 07:52:04 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:52:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Empty trailer OH>PA and back
Message-ID: <BAY123-W51C99AFCEC5D6092066D95BA2C0@phx.gbl>

There is a possibility that I might have an empty car trailer heading from the
TRF area to Northern Ohio Mid to end July and again from Norther Ohio to the
TRF area mid to end of August time frame. Can haul a car if anybody is in
need.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 08:09:31 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 10:09:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
	<4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <953DB6AB-B3B9-415C-98BD-65B7346D0F58@comcast.net>

I would go with a dual axle trailer even if it is lightweight.  I have  
had three tire blow-outs on my trailer, and am thankful for that  
second wheel/tire to pick up the load.  Make sure you use trailer  
tires  - car tires are not designed for the types of loads and heat  
that a trailer tire encounters.

On Jul 3, 2009, at 7:36 AM, Andre Rousseau wrote:

Thanks eveyone.

I'll forward your comments onwards.

For the race car I have been looking for options too.

I'll either go with a dolly;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Friday/slides/IMG_0198.html

or build a super light/simple trailer;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Saturday/slides/IMG_0257.html

But won't need one for a year.

A.

2009/7/2 Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>:
> Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your  
> wheel
> bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any  
> real
> problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for  
> a long
> time.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
> To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The  
> key is to
> take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front  
> which
ties
> the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel  
> which
> was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
> through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side.
>
> I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to  
> the trunk
> lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600  
> miles. One
> caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
> wheel...you only don't do this once...
>
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
> Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.
>
> A.
> Date: 2009/7/2
> Subject: Towing a GT6
> To: andre at gt6.ca
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
> (all 4 wheels down)?
>
> I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
> steering will it track ok?
>
> My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
> bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
> and how?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental  
> rugs!
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  3 12:29:44 2009
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:29:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stuff for sale
Message-ID: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>

First of all, Happy 4th of July to all.  It's because of this we can 
enjoy our cars.  This past May we bought out the collection of TR3/TR4 
parts from the estate of a customer (passed away form cancer).  Very 
little sheet metal and no seats.  But lots of TR3 engines, bare blocks, 
short blocks, long blocks, heads, cranks, liners, etc. We also have TR3 
seat tracks, windshield stanchions, reconditioned TR3 radiators, side 
curtain frames and more.  If you need anything along these lines, please 
ask. Thanks for your time.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From igofaster at charter.net  Fri Jul  3 12:38:24 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 11:38:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>

I bought this real nice race car cable release from Summitt.....   hooked it all up really nice....  checked all the operations... then shut the hood...

HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T DRIVE IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...

Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, lift the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...


HELP!!


Bobby Whitehead

From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 13:07:59 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:07:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
References: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>

if i recall correctly, the headlight removal is the way to go
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 11:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???


>I bought this real nice race car cable release from Summitt.....   hooked 
>it all up really nice....  checked all the operations... then shut the 
>hood...
>
> HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T DRIVE 
> IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...
>
> Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling 
> the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, 
> lift the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...
>
>
> HELP!!
>
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 14:18:26 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 15:18:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
References: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <354a1780907031318oe0f2ecekbe976a7cc357ae67@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 1:38 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at charter.net>wrote:

>
> Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling
> the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, lift
> the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...



Bobby,

The 6-Pack Club for 250's and TR6's has a forum where stuff like this is
discussed. Here is a link with many suggestions. You should find some help
here.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10184&highlight=hood

Irv Korey
74 TR6 Cf22767U
Highland Park, IL

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jul  3 14:47:46 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 16:47:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
References: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <0KM8001IH4FICQ1D@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

At 02:38 PM 7/3/2009, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>I bought this real nice race car cable release from 
>Summitt.....   hooked it all up really nice....  checked all the 
>operations... then shut the hood...
>
>HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T 
>DRIVE IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...
>
>Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about 
>pulling the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from 
>the body, lift the hood from the front and then see if I can 
>reach  the lever...

Bobby, I loosened the hinge bolts at the body and was able to raise 
the bonnet leading edge just high enough to reach in with a broom 
handle and trip the release.  Then I bought the emergency release 
hicky from Macy's Garage.  And of course have never had to use it.

jim



>HELP!!
>
>
>Bobby Whitehead
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 

From munsonsb at telus.net  Fri Jul  3 16:06:07 2009
From: munsonsb at telus.net (munsonsb at telus.net)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:06:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <27733341.119576.1246658767615.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edmwes92>


From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Sat Jul  4 12:55:19 2009
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 12:55:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] The Glenwood report
Message-ID: <20090704.125519.3504.1.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

The following has been stuck in administration since 6/26/09, so I'll try
again.

Henry,
Having been involved in some major efforts to get LBC's to and from
Glenwood in years past, I'm impressed and amazed by the accomplishments
on this one.
Bill
____________________________________________________________
Get the sign you need for the impact you want. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOAPbqZJRkdXwqXai3OY80m1EIFmzkMUwbzcbDvzOaDu8YFpdui9y/

From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Sat Jul  4 22:19:09 2009
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 14:19:09 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090705041916.MGHD26776.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>

 I am having all sorts of quality problems with "new" trunnions. The ones
the local importers have, are just crap. The core plug at the bottom falls
out, they wont hold grease/oil due to design problems, the caster angle is
machined wrong, and some I screwed onto brand new vertical links, are a
sloppier fit than my 20 year old worn-out ones. 
Is this how they now are???. Does anyone know of a reputable source 
Thanks   Terry O'Beirne, Australia

From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 13:10:18 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
Message-ID: <193ADE4CF20F4F969DF3E6115A0F760E@Bud>

----- Original Message -----
From: Rod Leavitt
To: Bud DeLauer
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:55 AM


>From www.musclecarclub.com:


YOU MIGHT BE A RACER IF ...



    * You think the primary purpose of wings is to PREVENT flight.

    * You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses or check
out cars.

    * You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to racing depth
and the wear bars are showing.

    * When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you
just saved.

    * Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you.

    * You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining.

    * You bought a race car before buying a house.

    * You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house.

    * You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture!

    * The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of
importance):

      1) 8 car climate controlled garage with an attached shop.

      2) Outside parking for 6 cars, a motor home, a crew cab dually, a 28'
enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel.

      3) 3 phase 220V outlets in the garage for your welder.

      4) A grease pit.

      5) Deaf neighbors.

      6) Some sort of house with a working toilet & shower on the property -
or - hookups for the motor home.

    * You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make car noises and shift
and practice your heel and toe, while waiting for your motor to get back from
the machine shop.

    * You have enough spare parts to build another car.

    * More than one racer supply store recognizes your voice and greets you by
name when you call.

    * You think the last line of the Star Spangled banner is: "Racers start
your engines!"

    * People know you by your class, car number, and car color.

    * You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped breaker bar
every other week or so.

    * Your family brings the couch into the garage to spend time with you.

    * A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query, "Synthetic or
organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn."

    * You enjoy driving in the rain on the way to work.

    * You always want to change something on your street car to make it handle
better.

    * You've tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix the
air filter on her station wagon.

    * You save broken car parts as "momentous".

    * You've found your lawnmower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but
doesn't particularly care for alcohol).

    * The local police and state highway patrol have a picture of your car
taped to their dashboard.

    * Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have time slips.

    * You quote your street tire wear life in weeks rather than miles.

    * After you tell your wife where you'd like to go on vacation she answers:
"Why...is there a race there?"

    * You know at least three 1-800 numbers to aftermarket parts houses by
heart.

    * You are on a first-name basis with owners of every local speed shop.

    * You want to take apart and rebuild things, even though they are not
broken.

    * You have the monetary equivalent of a lunar rocket invested in it, but
your car still won't cut a good light or run the number.

    * You own a vehicle that has at least 500 horsepower more than when it
came out of Detroit.

    * You look for hi-po cars in the movies and try to guess what engine size,
tire size, and whether or not it has nitrous in it.

    * You are the type of person who goes postal when you have to sit in a
traffic jam for more than five minutes, yet you can spend five hours in the
staging lanes.

    * Every stoplight becomes a practice tree to test your ability to tree the
guy in the other lane's eyes out.

    * You wash your car like it was your firstborn child, you tend to its
needs like it was your own body, you protect it like it's your family, then
you drive it like you stole it.

    * You understand racing is a way of life, not just a means of
transportation.

YOU MIGHT RACE A BUICK IF ...

*Race prepping your car means turning off the ac.

*You have a "Big is Beautiful" license plate holder.

*You have safety harnesses instead of seat belts for five occupants.

*You only have to be careful of traffic AHEAD of you when you merge onto the
Interstate

*Your race car has never been on a trailer.

*You think anything less than a 455 is a small block.

*You won't race motorcycles because it isn't fair . . . to them!

*You've ever had to take a different route because of bridge weight limits.

*You plan road trips from gas station to gas station.

*Your wife's car runs 12s.

*You painted your riding lawnmower black and turbocharged it.

*You think 5000 pound cars and station wagons are great dragstrip material.

*The wrecker service calls you when they get their rigs stuck.

*You have heard the phrase "That's a Buick!? from more than 5 punk kids in
Daddy's 'Vette after you shut them down.

*You have sucked so many bumpers off other cars, your car is nicknamed "The
Hoover."

*18 wheelers yield to you.

*You can fit a month of groceries in your trunk and still run 12s.

*You've ever been pulled over for failing to stop at a weigh station.

*Your car has more towing capacity than a one ton duelie.

*You think every race car should have ac and power windows.

*You get signed thank you cards from the presidents of Phillips 66 and Texaco
at Christmas.

*You think every four door should have a cam, headers and slicks and runs
12s.

*The phrase "231? Is that all?" and "That ain't no V6!" make the hair on the
back of your neck stand up.

*You've said "No, it's not an SS" more than 3 times this week.

*You've never seen the tail lights of a Mustang GT.

*Your friend's 5.0 'Stang runs 13s by being towed behind your car.

*The local Mustang guys are claiming they've been abused because your car
spanks them so bad.

*You've raced your daily driver against a tube frame, blown, nitroused big
block powered 'Stang . . . and won.

By Jason Green, Oklahoma GSCA Chapter




YOU MIGHT HAVE TO MUCH HORSEPOWER IF ...

1. The emissions test guy starts laughing as soon as you pull onto the
rollers.

2. You can't drive your car in the rain.

3. Your 'significant other' is afraid to drive your car.

4. You are afraid to drive your car.

5. You spend more on tires than on food.

6. You spend more on car insurance than on house payments.

7. You look in a state police car and see a picture of your car taped to the
dash.

8. You throw your underwear in the garbage rather than the hamper.

9. You have to go to the track to buy gas.

10. Your mechanic names the new wing of his shop after you.

11. Jacques Villeneuve and Michael Schumacher wave you by.

12. You can make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs.

13. You're tempted to wear your fire suit just to drive to the office.

14. Red signal lights shift to green as you're approaching then shift back to
red as you're receding.

15. You arrive somewhere before you left.

16. You get pulled over for doing 155 in a 35 but the cops will let you go if
"they can look under the hood."

17. You remove the $2000 stereo system to save 6 lb. of weight.

18. You are not allowed to run in the Silver State Challenge.

19. You get an anonymous phone call asking if you are interested in being in
the Cannonball Run.

20. Your face looks like you are riding a NASA centrifuge when you drive the
car.

22. You need parachute braking.

23. Your 'significant other' won't even ride in the car.

24. There is no possible way to "sneak out" of your neighborhood at 6 am.

25. Your pets scramble for their hiding spots as soon as the garage door is
opened. (Pets, and all the neighbors...)

26. Family photos throughout the house are replaced with life-sized posters of
your car.

27. Fuel is delivered to your home: in 55 gallon drums!

28. You carry earplugs in your car.(doesn't everybody???)

29. The only spot on the car which receives any regular cleaning is the
windshield. (what else is there to clean???)

30. You find out that side mirrors don't hold up at speeds exceeding 145 mph.

31. Young children cling to their mommies in fear when you round the corner.

32. Birds fall out of their nests from the rumble of your 5" dual exhaust.

33. All the major Tire makers are sending you free slicks in hopes of
endorsement deal.

34. The UPS guy took to taking Steroids so he could keep up with your
shipments.

35. The Fed Ex guy had a nervous breakdown.

36. All the wildlife within a 800ft radius around your house got the HELLOUT.

37. The nearest Geological Seismic Surveying Station Operator knows your
address by heart.

38. A booming voice greets potential passengers with, "That's right ....you
paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the EDGE.

39. The earth slows in rotation when you hook up on your new slicks and head
east.

40. You have to screw your slicks to the wheels.

41. Your exhaust pipes are larger in diameter than your driveline.

42. Your fuel pump flows enough to water a golf course.

43. Your compression's high enough you could run diesel fuel.

44. The sparks from your wheelie bars start grass fires on the side of the
road.

45. Your engine idles at 2800 rpm.

46. You measure the fuel you use in "gallons per mile."

From niteseeker at mac.com  Sun Jul  5 17:14:11 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 18:14:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
References: <5258A8EE-E3F8-48C9-9F59-5C167A43E25A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <62862647-53E6-4EF8-8894-5659BD9F106C@mac.com>

Begin forwarded message:

> From: dick ross <niteseeker at aol.com>
> Date: July 5, 2009 5:39:27 PM CDT
> To: triumph club club <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
>
> Now I know what I was missing having the AOL address and not getting  
> a Triumph fix every so often.   I thought everyone was too busy to  
> write anything.  New mail address fixed it all.

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Jul  5 19:39:09 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 21:39:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions
References: <20090705041916.MGHD26776.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>
Message-ID: <002201c9fdda$8ff9cb20$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  G'day mate from Erie, PA.
  I bought new trunnions last year from  the Roadster Factory and they
seemed very good quality parts.

  No financial interest.

  Good luck, Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions


  > I am having all sorts of quality problems with "new" trunnions. The ones
  > the local importers have, are just crap. The core plug at the bottom
falls
  > out, they wont hold grease/oil due to design problems, the caster angle
is
  > machined wrong, and some I screwed onto brand new vertical links, are a
  > sloppier fit than my 20 year old worn-out ones.
  > Is this how they now are???. Does anyone know of a reputable source
  > Thanks   Terry O'Beirne, Australia
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Jul  5 20:33:49 2009
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 19:33:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Request for help
Message-ID: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Group: I hope everyone had a good and safe July fourth and that everyone still
has all their fingers (seriously).
I received the following email from Andy Granatelli over the holiday. I know
it is a shot in the dark, but perhaps with all the experience and worldliness
in the group, someone may be able to help him. If you know of the location of
any of his "stuff" feel free to email he or I. Please, do not just email him
for fun..he is a man who really treasures his privacy.
Thanks in advance - Ed  
 
 
Ed:
 
I am looking for the following items for my Hall of Fame Museum, which will
open late this year in Auburn, Indiana. I need information on anything speed
equipment or cars built by Grancor Automotive Specialists (Granatelli
Corporation) like Ford Flathead motors, heads, manifolds, etc. Also, looking
for any racecars I owned or built, including Indy cars, street rods,
Bonneville cars or a Fordillac. I would like to have any information on the
whereabouts of any of the above. I will consider a loan, a donation or I will
purchase the items. No matter what, I would like to know what's out there.

Contact Andy at mrindy500 at yahoo. com. Thank you. Andy Granatelli

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul  5 23:17:59 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 07:17:59 +0200
Subject: [Fot] CSCC Race At Spa
In-Reply-To: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAIX9IOLDBzpMpr6Rlx1YK7wBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Maybe you might be interested in watching a race at Spa made last weekend.

http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5355089330593825922

Cheers
Chris

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul  6 06:09:00 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:09:00 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video practice Spa: Porsches for breakfast
In-Reply-To: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAH5P7xu6lXFAiEgEOt9ctT8BAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5355313714895278418

Cheers
Chris

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul  6 07:53:07 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 09:53:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>
References: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
	<1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907060945040.16206@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 3 Jul 2009, RACER BUD wrote:

> if i recall correctly, the headlight removal is the way to go

I've not read this whole thread, but there's no way to get to the bonnet 
release on TR6 through the headlight bucket.

_IF_ you can get the starter out of the way, you can reach up to the latch 
with a screwdriver or pry bar. The side of the latch assy. that faces away 
from the driver has a little tab that you flick to release the latch.

Going in from the front is tougher as you have to sacrifice "something" to 
get there. Just removing the hinges is not going to gain you much as 
you'll probably bend the bonnet near the rear edge if you relase the 
hinges and then pry up.

That said, if you can get access from the front, getting a hook around the 
previously mention tab will do the trick. pull the tab toward the front of 
the car.

There are a LOT of TR6 web sites with the famous remote bonnet releast 
diagrammed. Use that to see what I'm describing.

regards,
rml

p.s. BTDT with the failed cable thingie. Just before tech at an autocross. 
By complete serendipity, got it open, but that was partially due to fact 
that I had started to install the remote release thingie. Boy, was I 
lucky! I was one cable pull away from going through what Bobby W. is going 
though. Whew!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 15:11:33 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
Message-ID: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>

Check this out Gang.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: RACER BUD
To: RACER BUD
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:06 PM



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKqpvriKZuA

From greenman62 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 16:02:52 2009
From: greenman62 at hotmail.com (greenman62 at hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:02:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
In-Reply-To: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>
References: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>
Message-ID: <SNT111-W49898B326DA0D300A7AEB2D22B0@phx.gbl>

THAT'S hysterical!

Greg Petrolati   Lafayette, Oregon



That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory...







> From: budscars at comcast.net
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
> Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
>
> Check this out Gang.
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RACER BUD
> To: RACER BUD
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:06 PM
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKqpvriKZuA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From andre at gt6.ca  Mon Jul  6 20:25:14 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: 1968 Triumph GT6
References: <1966333622-1246933348-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2047016800-@bxe1200.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <E2591BEF-2F20-4257-88B5-F9894A7480EA@gt6.ca>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Triumph-GT6-cool-resto-project-19-pics_W0
QQitemZ190318409860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2c4fdc7884&_trk
sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1#ht_10231wt_928

Can anyone help Rodney and look over the MK1.

Looks solid, but no under side shots.

Thanks.

A.


Begin forwarded message:

> From: "RW - Movie Car Mania" <rw at moviecarmania.com>
> Date: July 6, 2009 10:22:28 PM GMT-04:00
> To: "Andre Rousseau" <andre at gt6.ca>
> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
> Reply-To: rw at moviecarmania.com
>
> Wow that would be great. Thanks again.
> RW - www.MovieCarMania.com
>
>
> From: Andre Rousseau
> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:14:52 -0400
> To: <rw at moviecarmania.com>
> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
>
> I could enquire among my TR friends.
>
> A.
>
> On 6-Jul-09, at 10:05 PM, RW - Movie Car Mania wrote:
>
>> Thanks for your help will let you know if I am able to get it. One
>> major consideration is that the car is 2000 miles away so I can't
>> look at it in person.
>> Rodney
>> RW - www.MovieCarMania.com
>>
>>
>> From: Andre Rousseau
>> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:54:07 -0400
>> To: RW<RW at moviecarmania.com>
>> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
>>
>> Ok from the photos looks solid.
>>
>> I'd want too see the floors and sills.
>>
>> Its a later MK1 which is nice.
>> Engine bay looks complete, but is a mess.
>> Seats look custom. Red with black.
>> Has an Overdrive.
>> All the glass.
>> Battery box looks good, almost no rust.
>>
>> ITS IS NOT A MK1 ENGINE. That's not a show stopper and have some
>> good points, but not original.
>>
>> I'd buy it mate.
>>
>>
>> A.
>>
>> On 6-Jul-09, at 9:34 PM, RW wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Andre,
>>> I came across your site through the Vintage Triumph Registry.  I
>>> like what youve done to your 1968 GT6. I am looking at a few
>>> British cars so that I can get a project car to restore.  I am
>>> looking at Triumph GT6s. I would love your feedback on the
>>> attached car.  From the photos and description, what do you think
>>> of this car as a project? What are some of the questions I should
>>> ask?  Thanks for your time and help.
>>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Triumph-GT6-cool-resto-project-19-pics_W0
QQitemZ190318409860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2c4fdc7884&_trk
sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7
>>> |39%3A1
>>>
>>> Rodney Wren  www.MovieCarMania.com
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
>> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
>> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
>> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>

--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 22:09:17 2009
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:09:17 -0700
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
Message-ID: <000001c9feb8$b2d06850$187138f0$@racer@comcast.net>

Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk

 

Gary

From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 22:21:26 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:21:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
References: <000001c9feb8$b2d06850$187138f0$@racer@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A87BC5B4C2F4539AB92DC16840E303C@Bud>

TERRIFIC!....GLADIATOR STUFF!
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Horstkorta" <vintage.racer at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 9:09 PM
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans


> Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk
> 
> 
> 
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From andre at gt6.ca  Tue Jul  7 06:02:39 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 08:02:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
In-Reply-To: <-2464984407369905180@unknownmsgid>
References: <-2464984407369905180@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907070502h159a6d11h6b816da59e88b965@mail.gmail.com>

Nasty.

A.

-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


2009/7/7 Gary Horstkorta <vintage.racer at comcast.net>:
> Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk
>
>
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  7 09:07:45 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:07:45 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Wheel Spacers-Available
Message-ID: <ce1.4f345d97.3784bec1@cs.com>

List,

For those of you who asked or are in need....We ran 100 aluminum wheel 
spacers for the TR bolt circle.  .250 thickness.

Specific to Triumph for:

Wider track
Caliper to wheel clearance
Wire wheel conversion

Contact me for FOT pricing.

Thanks...Joe Alexander

From BillB at bnj.com  Tue Jul  7 13:55:25 2009
From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:55:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Shirt Orders
In-Reply-To: <91560.98894.qm@web57612.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <91560.98894.qm@web57612.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9A41C8BD-9F45-4E08-B73C-D9BFF871A44D@bnj.com>

Ernie,
You might consider setting up a paypal account. It's easy to do, and  
anyone that has a credit card can make a payment to you without  
hassle. Just add the fee into the purchase price and it all comes out  
cleanly. You can pay the shirt company directly from the same account.

On Jul 7, 2009, at 11:14 AM, Ernest Husmann wrote:

> Joe:
>
> I beleive in the past there were arrangements for people to make  
> payment at the time they ordered their shirts/t-shirts/hats; such as  
> taking credit card payments.  I could possibly handle checks but I  
> guess most people will want to use credit cards.  I figure I would  
> add a dollar or two to cover the credit card companies take with  
> left over funds going to the FOT treasury.
>
> Also, in the past people had the option of having their orders  
> shipped to them or picking the items up at the event.  I could  
> handle the shipping part but as I won't be at PIR I'll have to find  
> a volunteer.  If Bill is agreeable I could have items for event  
> pickup shipped to him and I could get Irv Korey and one other kind  
> soul to volunteer for distribution at the track.
>
> Bottom line I suspect everything should be paid for at the time of  
> order.  I don't like chasing people for money; aggrevates me very  
> quickly.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> If this project works out well I might just volunteer to do the  
> shirt design for 2010 as well.
>
>
> --- On Tue, 7/7/09, N197TR4 at cs.com <N197TR4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> Subject: Re: Shirt Orders
> To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com, BillB at bnj.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 11:17 AM
>
> Ernie,
>
> Thanks for doing this....this is usually far more time consuming  
> that people often realize.  I have no suggestions on 'payments.
>
> Do you mean initial outlay of cash for the shirts?
>
> I have some FOT money in the till, but would not want to collect  
> money for the shirts.
>
> Joe
>
>
>> Gentlemen:
>>
>> A few minor changes are being made to the Kastner Cup shirt  
>> design.  I hope by the end of the week to have the designs out for  
>> quotes and shortly thereafter begin taking orders.
>>
>> While I can keep track of who ordered what, I am unable to handle  
>> payment arrangements.  Any suggestions?

From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Wed Jul  8 07:05:51 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 09:05:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
Message-ID: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>

Hi Mark

Looks like Mike was missed when adding people to the list. He was nominated
and seconded a while ago.

Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Deweerd [mailto:deweerdm at rogers.com] 
Sent: July 8, 2009 6:37 AM
To: Paul MacDonald
Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk race last weekend (video link too)

Thanks for the footage Paul
I'm still waiting for an invite to FOT.....ok maybe I'm being a little 
impatient,  but I'm eager to learn about how to get my car running better 
and of coarse faster.
I've just purchased a mgb dist. cap and new 8mm wires for the car and was 
wondering if the rotor has to be changed to or if the tr4 rotor is the same 
..mine is new.
also wondering what tire size of Hoosier speedster tires are guys running 
....I'd like to purchase a set for next season.
Thanks
Mike

From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed Jul  8 14:02:35 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:02:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Just a trial balloon...
Message-ID: <4A54FB5B.40404@dfn.com>

... for the moment.

I'm reaching the point where I have to decide about surviving into 
retirement or keeping up with a hobby I can't afford.  I never made much 
money when I was working, and was laid off, more or less permanently, at 
the age of 56.  The company for which I last worked failed, started, 
failed again, started again, then failed yet again and is still in 
bankruptcy.  That work was the only reason why I stayed where I am, and 
I've been able to work a little over three months for them in the last 
nearly six years.  I have a very small house which I can't sell, and I 
have no space left in which to do any real work toward getting cars 
done, and have lots of stuff eating up money sitting in storage.  I'm 
pretty much going to have to live on abbreviated Social Security and the 
crunch has finally come.

So, I'm thinking about disposing of everything mechanical so I can find 
a place to retire in which I'd be more comfortable, but, obviously, I 
can't do that unless I can dispose of most everything that's an anchor 
keeping me here.

So, I'm putting up everything for sale, with the proviso that I've got 
to get guarantees from buyers for virtually everything for sale before I 
commit to selling.  Doesn't make sense to be tied to this location 
because some percentage of the total can't be unloaded at a reasonable 
price.   Many items were put in storage because of the local code 
nazis.  I'll provide plenty of detail and asking prices upon request.  
Here's the abbreviated inventory list:

Triiumphs, in no particular order.

1971 GT6
1980 TR7
1966? TR4A IRS
1964 TR4
1970 GT6

Miscellany:

1986 Nissan 300ZX
1986 Nissan 300ZX (no, that's not a stutter on the enter key).
1970-or so Bridgeport vertical milling machine, 42" table, 3-phase, 5 hp 
drive, ways are not perfect, but serviceable.
Enco 9x27 lathe--good for small items and about twenty years old, with 
only occasional use.
P&H 3-phase 400A Tig/Stick welder.  A fuckin' brute.  800 lbs of iron 
and copper, with a set of casters installed by a pretend engineer.  
Somewhat of an effort to move around. Virtually antique spark-gap 
high-voltage generator for Tig work, but, hey, it does the job. Just 
needs water plumbing, foot pedal, a torch and a flowmeter/gas supply. 
Downside--can't do aluminum welding very well--DC only in Tig mode and 
no HV AC.  Very, very good for carbon and stainless steel, though.  I 
built _large_ experimental machines for the coal processing industry 
with this welder.

A real challenge--1968 VW camper, with a 1756cc Lancia twincam which I 
installed, oh, about 25 years ago.  After ten years of hard use, I put 
full synthetic oil in it and the old, tired engine almost immediately 
shit the bed because of not enough oil pressure as the oil too easily 
ran out of the worn mains.  Complete, right down to a worn red-leather 
driver's seat from the Lancia and a side-mounted radiator and 40DCOEs on 
a homemade manifold.  Upgraded to `72 front disc brakes, `72 rear hubs 
and 14" stud-mounted rims.  Body, despite being refurbished in `87, 
shows the effects of years on Michigan and Massachusetts salted roads.

Misc. spare parts--used A-Type TR4 trans/OD, half-assed rusted GT6 trans 
w/OD shaft, and a disassembled OD with freshly-lined sliding member, a 
few (I think) good synchros, stuff like that.

Oxy/acetylene tanks (B size), no certification available since I 
purchased them myself three decades ago.  If that's cool with your state 
and local gas supplier, go fer `em. My local suppliers verified 
compliance at the last fill--many years ago.

As one might expect, I can't fit all that into an 11 x 16 garage and get 
anything done.  I expected to work until I was 66 and save the cash for 
a little place in the country with a nice-sized shop, but it was not to be.

Details-as expansive as required--upon request.


Cheers.


















-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed Jul  8 14:16:39 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:16:39 -0600
Subject: [Fot] This got kicked for too many bytes for some lists, so...
Message-ID: <4A54FEA7.4020508@dfn.com>

... a repeat with abbreviations, and apologies if it's a duplication:
This is a trial balloon... for the moment.

I'm reaching the point where I have to decide about surviving into 
retirement or keeping up with a hobby I can't afford.  I never made much 
money when I was working, and was laid off, more or less permanently, at 
the age of 56.  I tried to buy decent cars cheap with the expectation of 
having time and money to make them better later.  The company for which 
I last worked failed and is still in bankruptcy.  That work was the only 
reason why I stayed where I am, and I've worked for them three months in 
the last nearly six years.  I have a very small house which I can't 
sell, and I have no space in which to do any work toward getting cars 
done, and have stuff eating up money sitting in storage.  I'm going to 
have to live on abbreviated Social Security and the crunch has finally 
come.

So, I'm thinking about disposing of everything mechanical so I can find 
a place to retire I'd like better, but, obviously, I can't do that 
unless I can dispose of  everything that's an anchor.

So, I'm putting up everything for sale, with the proviso that I've got 
to get guarantees from buyers for virtually everything for sale before I 
commit to selling.  Doesn't make sense to take a big loss and still be 
tied to this location because some percentage of the total can't be 
unloaded at a reasonable price.  I'll provide plenty of detail and 
asking prices upon request.  Here's the abbreviated inventory list:
Triiumphs, in no particular order.
1971 GT6
1980 TR7
1966? TR4A IRS
1964 TR4
1970 GT6
Miscellany:
1986 Nissan 300ZX
1986 Nissan 300ZX (no, that's not a stutter on the enter key).
1970-or so Bridgeport vertical milling machine, 42" table, 3-phase, 5 hp 
drive, ways are not perfect, but serviceable.
Enco 9x27 lathe--good for small items and about twenty years old, with 
only occasional use.
P&H 3-phase 400A Tig/Stick welder.  A fuckin' brute.  800 lbs of iron 
and copper, with a set of casters installed by a pretend engineer.  
Somewhat of an effort to move around. Antique spark-gap high-voltage 
generator for Tig work, but, hey, it does the job. Needs water plumbing, 
foot pedal, a torch and a flowmeter/gas supply. Downside--can't do 
aluminum welding very well--DC only in Tig mode and no HV AC.  Very good 
for carbon and stainless steel, though.  I built _large_ experimental 
machines for the coal processing industry with this welder.

A real challenge--1968 VW camper, with a 1756cc Lancia twincam 
installed, oh, about 25 years ago.  After ten years of hard use, I put 
full synthetic oil in it and the old, tired engine almost immediately 
shit the bed because of not enough oil pressure as the oil too easily 
ran out of the worn mains.  Complete, right down to a worn red-leather 
driver's seat, a side-mounted radiator and 40DCOEs on a homemade 
manifold.  Upgraded to `72 front disc brakes, `72 rear hubs and 14" 
stud-mounted rims.  Body, despite being refurbished in `87, shows the 
effects of years on Michigan and Massachusetts salted roads.

Misc. spare parts--used A-Type TR4 trans/OD, half-assed rusted GT6 trans 
w/OD shaft, and a disassembled OD with freshly-lined sliding member, a 
few (I think) good synchros, stuff like that.

Oxy/acetylene tanks (B size), no certification available since I 
purchased them three decades ago.  If that's cool with your state and 
local gas supplier, go fer `em. My local suppliers verified compliance 
at the last fill--many years ago.

As one might expect, I can't fit all that into an 11 x 16 garage and get 
anything done.  I expected to work until I was 66 and save the cash for 
a little place in the country with a nice-sized shop, but it was not to 
be.  Details-as expansive as required--upon request.

Cheers.















-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From rocky at spitfire4.com  Wed Jul  8 18:04:35 2009
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 19:04:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>

Yes, someone please enl9ighten me how a new member actually gets added.

I've nominated a couple, they've been seconded, all well and good. But by 
what process do they actually begin receiving FOT traffic and become enabled 
to participate?

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul MacDonald" <macdonaldp at rogers.com>
To: "Fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <deweerdm at rogers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 8:05 AM
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list


> Hi Mark
>
> Looks like Mike was missed when adding people to the list. He was 
> nominated
> and seconded a while ago.
>
> Thanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Deweerd [mailto:deweerdm at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 8, 2009 6:37 AM
> To: Paul MacDonald
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk race last weekend (video link too)
>
> Thanks for the footage Paul
> I'm still waiting for an invite to FOT.....ok maybe I'm being a little
> impatient,  but I'm eager to learn about how to get my car running better
> and of coarse faster.
> I've just purchased a mgb dist. cap and new 8mm wires for the car and was
> wondering if the rotor has to be changed to or if the tr4 rotor is the 
> same
> ..mine is new.
> also wondering what tire size of Hoosier speedster tires are guys running
> ....I'd like to purchase a set for next season.
> Thanks
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 18:37:46 2009
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 20:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
In-Reply-To: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
	<7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
Message-ID: <011901ca002d$7b834810$7289d830$@com>

Go to the link at the end of each FOT email and enter the new person so that
all Mark needs to do is ok the membership. You can choose password, digest,
etc. in advance. Otherwise Mark must enter all the data and that is a bit of
work.
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
Clark

From stlnyc at msn.com  Wed Jul  8 21:03:54 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:03:54 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing
Message-ID: <BAY104-W49980A75398EC541062EFEDA260@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Does anyone have a spec sheet or the ratios for the early close ratio gear
sets for a TR4-6 gearbox?  This would be the set with the 1", 10 spline input
shaft.  Thanks in advance.



Fred Hodgson

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 21:09:21 2009
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:09:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing
References: <BAY104-W49980A75398EC541062EFEDA260@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1507785973B64E2CA89AFAA5E7537BD1@bob44f854f0e85>

Check out:

http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6drivetrain.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred & Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc at msn.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 10:03 PM
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing


> Amici-
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a spec sheet or the ratios for the early close ratio gear
> sets for a TR4-6 gearbox?  This would be the set with the 1", 10 spline 
> input
> shaft.  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Fred Hodgson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 23:29:32 2009
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:29:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>

How should one put oil in  the rear stock lever shock on a TR6?  How
much? [too much makes the shock not work it seems].
Anybody use 75-90 weight Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in them?

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  9 01:14:22 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 01:14:22 -0600
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
In-Reply-To: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
	<7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
Message-ID: <4A5598CE.8000404@bradakis.com>

A couple of things to keep in mind:

I do this in my spare time, as I get around to it.  Sure, if all of the 
Team.Net
subscribers to all the various lists would ante up 5 or 10 bucks a year for
each of their subscriptions, or if everyone would click on one or two of the
Google ads on the archive pages, etc. every day, I'd have enough income to
make Team.Net a full time job.  Such is not the case, sad to say.

To add an email address to the list of FOT email addresses, I need the
email address to add.  This is so blatently obvious, you'd think it would
be blatently obvious.

mjb.

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Jul  9 07:37:59 2009
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 06:37:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>

Chuck, I believe that the shocks have to be full to work properly.  You may 
be using to thick of an oil and the shock may not be moving at all.
Tony Garmey has a shock dyno and can help you to make adjustments on it, 
mostly with oil viscosity.
I tried a heavy duty shock valve from Moss and the valve did worse 
performance than the stock valve.
Some have done their own modifications to the valve with great success. 
There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World 
Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>; "Triumph" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 10:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?


> How should one put oil in  the rear stock lever shock on a TR6?  How
> much? [too much makes the shock not work it seems].
> Anybody use 75-90 weight Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in them?
>
> -- 
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From emanteno at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 07:56:55 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:56:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
Message-ID: <354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Charly Mitchel
<charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:

> There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World
> Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.



Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts of Madison (WI) has his own lever
shock rebuilding operation. He also has designed and produced externally
adjustable levers for TR's. I'm sure Peter would be happy to answer your
shock filling and other performance questions. In fact, he says so on his
website:

http://www.nosimport.com/

NFI

Irv Korey

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 12:02:27 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 11:02:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Granatelli request
Message-ID: <151646.10282.qm@web57616.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Recently someone posted a message that Andy Granatelli was searching for
pieces to place in his museum.  I work with someone who goes way back in
dirt track/sprint car racing who may know some people who would have items of
possible interest.
 
Could whoever sent that message please forward the message to me again so that
I might pass it along.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie

From niteseeker at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 21:46:27 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] iola
References: <D29F2A77-DC7D-4D5F-8908-830EF12FDF91@aol.com>
Message-ID: <299AC3C8-96E3-49FA-9A86-BE41E41BA86A@mac.com>

> Will there be anyone from the list at Iola this weekend?
> Browsers or sellers.
> thanks
> Dick

From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu Jul  9 20:58:32 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 20:58:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] close ratio gears
Message-ID: <BAY104-W23BDB631DC019FA849E297DA270@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Thanks to all who responded.



Fred Hodgson

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul  9 21:36:28 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:36:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com
  >
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
	<354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>

Uncle jack had a set of the adjustable shocks on his car.  I believe 
that he worked with Peter to get the location of the adjustment valve 
where it wouldn't interfere with the normal mounting.  Very cool.

- Tony

At 08:56 AM 7/9/2009, Irv Korey wrote:
>On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Charly Mitchel
><charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:
>
> > There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World
> > Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.
>
>
>
>Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts of Madison (WI) has his own lever
>shock rebuilding operation. He also has designed and produced externally
>adjustable levers for TR's. I'm sure Peter would be happy to answer your
>shock filling and other performance questions. In fact, he says so on his
>website:
>
>http://www.nosimport.com/
>
>NFI
>
>Irv Korey

From niteseeker at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 21:24:38 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:24:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] iola
References: <D29F2A77-DC7D-4D5F-8908-830EF12FDF91@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EBEEC2D0-7510-48DD-909B-D66ACA03E4BD@mac.com>

> Will there be anyone from the list at Iola this weekend?
> Browsers or sellers.
> thanks
> Dick

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 10 10:04:23 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:04:23 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <be1.5eb6ee3a.3788c087@cs.com>

List:

I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have no 
personal history with this car)

It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.

The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position bolt 
circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)

....anyone familiar with this?

We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)

Joe Alexander

From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 10 10:16:51 2009
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (CHIP COLLINGWOOD)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:16:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <380-220097510161651382@earthlink.net>

Joe,

Sounds like a jaguar setup. That is the current setup allowed on the TR6
for SCCA and what Fletcher adapted to my car before I ran it. Good but a
bit heavy and now outdated.

Chip Collingwood
TR6
510



> [Original Message]
> From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Date: 7/10/2009 12:05:18 PM
> Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
>
> List:
>
> I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have
no 
> personal history with this car)
>
> It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.
>
> The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position
bolt 
> circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)
>
> ....anyone familiar with this?
>
> We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)
>
> Joe Alexander
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 11:52:35 2009
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:52:35 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <d28.4b3cc729.3788d9e3@aol.com>

In a message dated 07/10/2009 12:34:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
N197TR4 at cs.com writes:


> We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)
> 

Sure sounds like they'd work, but you did say, "Vintage", right?

Must be a very rare TR3.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)

From Herald948 at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 13:37:50 2009
From: Herald948 at aol.com (Herald948 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:37:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <bc9.5009c3b5.3788f28e@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/10/2009 1:34:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
N197TR4 at cs.com writes:

It is a  THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper  bracket.
Joe, front caliper from a Volvo 122 sticks in my mind. I vaguely remember  
working on my neighbor's 122 many, many years ago and being struck by the  
peculiarity of such a caliper; I was used to a typical Triumph caliper with 
two  pistons or a typical Volvo 144 front caliper with four pistons (all 
Girling)!  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Fri Jul 10 16:27:44 2009
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 22:27:44 GMT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <20090710.182744.14958.0@webmail01.dca.untd.com>

Sounds like the Jaguar calipers that I have on my car.  The Jag rotors are
vented and were originally 5 bolt.  The calipers have 3.5 inch mounting ears
thus bolt on to TR3-6s.  In SCCA the jag calipers are the way to go up front,
until they allow aftermarket ones.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:04:23 EDT

List:

I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have no
personal history with this car)

It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.

The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position bolt
circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)

....anyone familiar with this?

We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)

Joe Alexander
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
____________________________________________________________
Get your dream car or truck. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxXBkAOCb70MmL10IxWCqa9QA
e0KBkexAARZTJJG3Hm15C5d2FBox6/

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Sat Jul 11 06:08:49 2009
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 06:08:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] My old Triumph
Message-ID: <BLU116-W26C0C9137E99667CFA510790240@phx.gbl>

There is a familiar face on page 43 of this month's Victory Lane.  My old TR3
driven by Jeff Schur at Lime Rock.



Cheers Henry Morrison, Albuquerque

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Jul 11 09:42:03 2009
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 10:42:03 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
References: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>

I had to smile when I read this and remembered my dad telling me "just 
run STP in the rear shocks". This is how I learned how to drive the car 
over the 40 some years I have been driving it. I still run it that way 
frankly with the STP he put in the shocks "just because" although the 
valves have probably compensated over the years and miles. I have new 
shocks in my stash but never felt the need to change anything - I know 
the car so well as it is and I like the balance. I will tell you that 
its getting tough crossing railroad tracks at speed in my old age...

I am quite sure that there are more enlightened thought process since 
the late '50s and early '60s when my dad raced my TR3 so I am not 
suggesting this as a course of action. In fact in my TR6, the first 
thing I did was design and fabricate a bolt-in (stock mount points) 
conversion to Koni's...

Best to all...

M

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 09:24:26 2009
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:24:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <4A5A002A.30203@cfl.rr.com>

All,

Please second the nomination of Steve Clements to the roster. He is a 
TR6 racer in the northeast and runs a business of buying and selling 
new, NLA and obsolete Brit car parts. Good addition to the list if you 
are restoring something.

Bob
1957 TR3 racer in progress

From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Sun Jul 12 15:53:34 2009
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:53:34 +1000
Subject: [Fot] mystery calipers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1247335201.15493.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090712215333.GQPA1990.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>

The 3 piston calipers are most likely Rover 3500 P6B

Terry O'Beirne

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 06:59:00 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:59:00 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers +
 WARNING
Message-ID: <bbf.534c6a00.378c8994@cs.com>

Lots of replies. Thanks!

Concensus seems to be that 3 and 4 pot Jaguar Calipers were used 
successfully with Jaguar Vented Rotors on Triumphs.

A frequently conversion on the TR250 and the TR6, but can be retrofitted to 
TR3 & TR4.

The three pot calipers may have been used on other applications such as 
Rover & Volvo...which would be no surprise.

Another question would be if 'race' quality pads are available.....

Thanks, Joe Alexander

PS:  This is not for me, but perhaps something to consider if the 
conversion is simpler and represents additional safety.  

PPS: I put the Toyota conversion on the AMBRO. TOYOTA CALIPERS appear to be 
a proven configuration, but I DISCOVERED THAT IN SOME CASES THE FLEX LINE 
CAN BE POSITIONED SO IT HAS INTERFERENCE  DURING THE FULL RANGE OF MOTION OF 
STEERING AND VERTICAL MOTION. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT THIS COULD BE MISSED 
DURING INSTALLATION.  

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 13 08:23:31 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:23:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>
References: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
	<4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907131023040.29320@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009, Mark Eginton wrote:

> I am quite sure that there are more enlightened thought process since the 
> late '50s and early '60s when my dad raced my TR3 so I am not suggesting this 
> as a course of action. In fact in my TR6, the first thing I did was design 
> and fabricate a bolt-in (stock mount points) conversion to Koni's...

Care to share?

Do you have pix?

> Best to all...
>
> M

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jul 13 11:27:05 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:27:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
Message-ID: <c95.46ba39e1.378cc869@aol.com>

Anyone going to Cal Speedway next weekend?  How many spots do we need  to 
save?
 
Steve
**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 12:02:10 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:02:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
Message-ID: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Greetings FoT

I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some

spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
DOT

slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
the car

so I don't have anything to compare to.

Any input would be appreciated



Jim G

RMVR

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 13 12:56:55 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:56:55 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
Message-ID: <6049500.1247511415424.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Steve.  I will be there with my white TR3B #144.  Can't wait!

~Steve Belfer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>Sent: Jul 13, 2009 10:27 AM
>To: FOT at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
>
>Anyone going to Cal Speedway next weekend?  How many spots do we need  to 
>save?
> 
>Steve
>**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
>(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 13 12:58:02 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:58:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
Message-ID: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I run Yokohama Advan A048R 205/60/15  7 weekends and still sticky.

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
>Sent: Jul 13, 2009 11:02 AM
>To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
>
>Greetings FoT
>
>I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some
>
>spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
>DOT
>
>slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
>the car
>
>so I don't have anything to compare to.
>
>Any input would be appreciated
>
>
>
>Jim G
>
>RMVR
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:29:40 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:29:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0E16415B-670E-4F69-A0F0-793AE410F282@bnj.com>

Slicks will always be faster if your car is set up properly for them.  
Two seconds is probably about right. Could be more.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 11:02 AM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings FoT
>
> I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires  
> butB some
>
> spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap  
> to the
> DOT
>
> slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've  
> had on
> the car
>
> so I don't have anything to compare to.
>
> Any input would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Jim G
>
> RMVR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 16:34:58 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>

The fastest R-DOT's in a 205/50/15 size are the Hoosier R6's and Goodyear
Eagle RS-TL's. The V710's are just a tick behind those two.

As far as speed differential is concerned, the Nitto NT-01, Toyo Ra1, R888,
and Kumho V700 are ~ .4 to.5 sec. slower / per minute. Most claim the
Hoosier Street TD is on par with these tires, but if you're fast, don't
expect them to last more than two race weekend.

Tires like the Hoosier Speedster and Yokohama A048's are even slower, but
they both wear like iron.

If you're looking for a great, cheap, decently quick, and long last tiring
go with the Nitto NT01. They're the same compound and design as the RA1's
but they are molded to 6/32 and have larger tread blocks. They only cost
$136 or so.

Hope this helps,

Bob

From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:44:43 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:44:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>

What are the Hoosier Street TD's? I assume they are not the same as  
the bias ply Vintage TD's

I've managed to get the Speedsters to work well, but they require  
careful set up. They do not set up like true radials, not sure why.  
Anything past 1.5 degrees of camber and you start losing time-- on my  
car anyway. But they need that 1.5 degrees for sure.  Zero to 1  
degrees of caster like bias plies doesn't work at all either.

They also need careful tire pressure adjustment. There is at least a  
half second per minute in the right pressure--two pounds makes a big  
difference.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 3:34 PM, Bob Adams wrote:

> The fastest R-DOT's in a 205/50/15 size are the Hoosier R6's and  
> Goodyear
> Eagle RS-TL's. The V710's are just a tick behind those two.
>
> As far as speed differential is concerned, the Nitto NT-01, Toyo  
> Ra1, R888,
> and Kumho V700 are ~ .4 to.5 sec. slower / per minute. Most claim the
> Hoosier Street TD is on par with these tires, but if you're fast,  
> don't
> expect them to last more than two race weekend.
>
> Tires like the Hoosier Speedster and Yokohama A048's are even  
> slower, but
> they both wear like iron.
>
> If you're looking for a great, cheap, decently quick, and long last  
> tiring
> go with the Nitto NT01. They're the same compound and design as the  
> RA1's
> but they are molded to 6/32 and have larger tread blocks. They only  
> cost
> $136 or so.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 17:48:19 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:48:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>

The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's, but they
are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that run around the
circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier would make a 205/60/15
Street TD they basically said that they "weren't interested".
The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire they
are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session and have
tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment, keep in mind that
your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the production bodied cars
(SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the
TR3-4's). Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the
Street TD's and
the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the fast radials are
manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14 where the 15" cars are stuck
with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in sidewall !). This isn't an issue for
most, but when you are racing for the podium in 50 car fields it is.

Bob Adams

From igofaster at charter.net  Mon Jul 13 19:16:05 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:16:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>

Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. Poor guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is overcoming for him...
He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can someone email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to re-activate his access to FoT..

All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address or server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the release... any help?

The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca   

Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com

All the best... Bobby Whitehead

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon Jul 13 20:00:21 2009
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 02:00:21 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers
 + WARNING
Message-ID: <20090713.220021.28570.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

Joe, I modified a set of Performance friction race pads.  I had to mill some
material (about 50/1000)off of each end so that they would fit.  I do not have
the part number with me, but can look it up in a few days if you are
interested.  I do recall that they are the 01 compound.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers +
WARNING
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:59:00 EDT

Lots of replies. Thanks!

Concensus seems to be that 3 and 4 pot Jaguar Calipers were used
successfully with Jaguar Vented Rotors on Triumphs.

A frequently conversion on the TR250 and the TR6, but can be retrofitted to
TR3 & TR4.

The three pot calipers may have been used on other applications such as
Rover & Volvo...which would be no surprise.

Another question would be if 'race' quality pads are available.....

Thanks, Joe Alexander

PS:  This is not for me, but perhaps something to consider if the
conversion is simpler and represents additional safety.

PPS: I put the Toyota conversion on the AMBRO. TOYOTA CALIPERS appear to be
a proven configuration, but I DISCOVERED THAT IN SOME CASES THE FLEX LINE
CAN BE POSITIONED SO IT HAS INTERFERENCE  DURING THE FULL RANGE OF MOTION OF
STEERING AND VERTICAL MOTION. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT THIS COULD BE MISSED
DURING INSTALLATION.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
____________________________________________________________
Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxUOPYoKgTlGkxOxqvGpI0LEV
e3dYUgTNSvlF6xU6NAEYyHgZEZR9e/

From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 20:41:38 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:41:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
	<673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>

Yeah, then I've seen the Street TDs and thought they looked pretty  
good, Tony Garmey had a set on the Corvette last weekend that I was  
lusting after. Too bad they don't make a 15.

I'm sure the weight makes a big difference with the Speedsters. I've  
never seen such a sensitive tire, even the slicks on my Radical were  
more forgiving. At roughly 18 pounds cold / 20 hot  on Peyote they  
give very even temps across the face but are .5 to 1 second slow. At  
19/21 they pick up the second and are a little hotter on the inside  
edge and middle, at 20/23 they lose a second and are hot in the middle.

Once they heat cycle out they become completely stable and will last  
forever on Peyote but they are two to three seconds slow. When I  
decide I need those three seconds they cost me $800 bucks.


Incidentally, temperatures and pressures at the end of a session are  
all but worthless unless you're getting the reading at the pit wall.  
And you need to pick your track to get the best results. PIR for  
example, has a long back straight, then two relatively short turns  
that put almost no heat into the tire. So readings at PIR are  
worthless for camber because the outside edge gets too much cooling.  
Pacific Raceway has a right,left, right combination followed by a  
short climbing straight, a left and then a carousel called Big Indy-- 
good for camber checks. Even better is a skid pad.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 4:48 PM, Bob Adams wrote:

> The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's,  
> but they are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that  
> run around the circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier  
> would make a 205/60/15 Street TD they basically said that they  
> "weren't interested".
>
> The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire  
> they are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session  
> and have tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment,  
> keep in mind that your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the  
> production bodied cars (SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the TR3-4's).  
> Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the Street  
> TD's and the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the  
> fast radials are manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14  
> where the 15" cars are stuck with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in  
> sidewall !). This isn't an issue for most, but when you are racing  
> for the podium in 50 car fields it is.
>
> Bob Adams

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 20:58:30 2009
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BE78EE919DD145FA929EA34BB0C58A0B@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

This is my experience on a Spitfire.

I started out running Yokohama A032's and really liked them.  They were the
hard compound and lasted forever.  However they are now obsolete and I had
to look for other tires.  I also have a set of RA-1's at full tread depth
that I use as "intermediate" rain tires.  Once last year I put them on
anticipating rain that didn't materialize.  My time was off at least 1-2
seconds on a 100 (give or take) second lap from the Yok's.  However, I do
like how the RA-1's work on a damp track.

This year, I had to retire the Yok's.  I went with Hoosier R-6's.  It took a
while to work out the tire pressures, but I can safely say that the Hoosiers
are significantly faster than either the Yokohama tires or the Toyos.  Not
sure how long they will last, but I've got 2 full weekends on them so far.
I think at least 4 weekends for sure, and maybe more.

All this being said, realize that this is on a Spitfire that runs a lot of
negative camber.  The car loves radial tires and vice-versa.

Jim Norlin

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 11:02 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll


Greetings FoT

I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some

spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
DOT

slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
the car

so I don't have anything to compare to.

Any input would be appreciated



Jim G

RMVR
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 20:59:12 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:59:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
	<673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
	<F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <85EB8F09-F9FA-4D2F-A965-DCB27B41EAED@bnj.com>

I got Tony Garmey to help me with tire temps this weekend, We did two  
runs with a new set of speedsters, starting with 27 pounds hot and  
going down, just in case I've been missing something at higher  
pressure. Didn't have time for a real test and tune kind of effort  
(and I was begging Tony's time so I didn't feel I could keep him from  
the real customers) but it confirmed the tire pressures I've been using.

Had overheating problems all weekend. I didn't think it was a head  
gasket because the leakdown didn't show it, but it was. A skinny  
little leak that probably only happened at heavy load. I also had a  
tie rod end come loose and give me about an inch and a half of toe  
out, so I was plowing asphalt. Temps stayed lower longer without the  
extra load, enough for me to charge up from the back and get second,  
though I had to nurse it for the last two laps.

Fun weekend.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 7:41 PM, Bill Babcock wrote:

> Yeah, then I've seen the Street TDs and thought they looked pretty
> good, Tony Garmey had a set on the Corvette last weekend that I was
> lusting after. Too bad they don't make a 15.
>
> I'm sure the weight makes a big difference with the Speedsters. I've
> never seen such a sensitive tire, even the slicks on my Radical were
> more forgiving. At roughly 18 pounds cold / 20 hot  on Peyote they
> give very even temps across the face but are .5 to 1 second slow. At
> 19/21 they pick up the second and are a little hotter on the inside
> edge and middle, at 20/23 they lose a second and are hot in the  
> middle.
>
> Once they heat cycle out they become completely stable and will last
> forever on Peyote but they are two to three seconds slow. When I
> decide I need those three seconds they cost me $800 bucks.
>
>
> Incidentally, temperatures and pressures at the end of a session are
> all but worthless unless you're getting the reading at the pit wall.
> And you need to pick your track to get the best results. PIR for
> example, has a long back straight, then two relatively short turns
> that put almost no heat into the tire. So readings at PIR are
> worthless for camber because the outside edge gets too much cooling.
> Pacific Raceway has a right,left, right combination followed by a
> short climbing straight, a left and then a carousel called Big Indy--
> good for camber checks. Even better is a skid pad.
>
>
> On Jul 13, 2009, at 4:48 PM, Bob Adams wrote:
>
>> The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's,
>> but they are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that
>> run around the circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier
>> would make a 205/60/15 Street TD they basically said that they
>> "weren't interested".
>>
>> The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire
>> they are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session
>> and have tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment,
>> keep in mind that your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the
>> production bodied cars (SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the TR3-4's).
>> Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the Street
>> TD's and the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the
>> fast radials are manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14
>> where the 15" cars are stuck with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in
>> sidewall !). This isn't an issue for most, but when you are racing
>> for the podium in 50 car fields it is.
>>
>> Bob Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Tue Jul 14 07:02:45 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:02:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Bobby,

I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this links to
Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 bucks.

http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm

Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in September.
It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake and
Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a chance
that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be double
parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bobby Whitehead
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua

Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. Poor
guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
overcoming for him...
He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can someone
email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
re-activate his access to FoT..

All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address or
server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
release... any help?

The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca

Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com

All the best... Bobby Whitehead
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 14 07:37:15 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:37:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <20090714133738.0E09F18765B@autox.team.net>

Since Gary has an AOL address, it's most likely AOL which has 
"dropped him" from the list.  There have been a few messages from the 
big triumph list where AOL members started getting messages again, so 
MAYBE it's better now.  If not, I suggest he get an alternate account 
say a google mail account.  He can set up a rule where messages to 
the gmail account are forwarded to AOL, or can just check the gmail 
account separately.

I saw him at Blackhawk, and the Shingles really laid him low.

- Tony

At 08:16 PM 7/13/2009, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the 
>shingles. Poor guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race 
>car but the pain is overcoming for him...
>He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
>someone email him , first with get well wishes and second with 
>instructions to re-activate his access to FoT..
>
>All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release 
>question... I found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but 
>his email address or server rejected my request... I'm not closing 
>the hood until I get the release... any help?
>
>The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>
>Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>
>All the best... Bobby Whitehead
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Jul 14 08:34:56 2009
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:34:56 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net><20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <C6806C06F87F4912B29F50580F9DF5CE@KasPC>

The medics now have a shot you can get to prevent Shingles.  If you have 
ever had Chicken Pox, go and get it.  It costs about $85 but anything is 
better than Shingles. It will also help those that have Shingles I 
understand.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua


> Bobby,
>
> I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this 
> links to
> Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 
> bucks.
>
> http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>
> Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in 
> September.
> It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake 
> and
> Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
> Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a chance
> that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be 
> double
> parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?
>
> Bob Kramer
> Sales Manager
> RDO Equipment Company
> 16415 N. IH 35
> Pflugerville, TX 78660
> 512-272-4141
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Bobby Whitehead
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>
> Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. 
> Poor
> guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
> overcoming for him...
> He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
> someone
> email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
> re-activate his access to FoT..
>
> All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
> found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address 
> or
> server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
> release... any help?
>
> The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>
> Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>
> All the best... Bobby Whitehead
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 10:43:23 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net><20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13><CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<C6806C06F87F4912B29F50580F9DF5CE@KasPC>
Message-ID: <EC71E96C5F1D4EDAA3AADB265619FE87@Bud>

My local Safeway store's pharmacy gives Shingles shots
Racer bud..sonoma, ca.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua


> The medics now have a shot you can get to prevent Shingles.  If you have 
> ever had Chicken Pox, go and get it.  It costs about $85 but anything is 
> better than Shingles. It will also help those that have Shingles I 
> understand.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
> To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 6:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>
>
>> Bobby,
>>
>> I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this 
>> links to
>> Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 
>> bucks.
>>
>> http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>>
>> Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in 
>> September.
>> It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake 
>> and
>> Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
>> Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a 
>> chance
>> that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be 
>> double
>> parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>> Sales Manager
>> RDO Equipment Company
>> 16415 N. IH 35
>> Pflugerville, TX 78660
>> 512-272-4141
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>> Behalf
>> Of Bobby Whitehead
>> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>>
>> Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. 
>> Poor
>> guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
>> overcoming for him...
>> He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
>> someone
>> email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
>> re-activate his access to FoT..
>>
>> All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
>> found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address 
>> or
>> server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
>> release... any help?
>>
>> The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>>
>> Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>>
>> All the best... Bobby Whitehead
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 14 20:19:32 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 22:19:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907142209450.3085@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I recognize that the answer to this question is more or less "find the 
longest straight and gear up/down 'till you hit the redline just before 
the brake point...

But here's the question anyway - I bumped up the power in the TR6 
autocrosser this year. There's enough bump (and it's not completely tuned 
yet) that I can pretty much spin the wheels at will in 2nd, or so it 
seems. I also observe that the rears are running hotter than the fronts - 
this is new territory for me, it's always been the other way 'round.

At any rate, shifting in autox is mostly a waste unless you consider the 
effects of running the motor to beyond the $$$ indication on the rev 
counter, SO - if you're gear too low (numerically higher) - say 4.33 - and 
you happen to have a spare diff with 4.10 gears, would an increase in 
available power combined with the higher gear (numerically lower, 4.10 in 
this case) balance things out so you don't have to row through the gears 
as much?

What I get with my gears spreadsheet is 4.33 and 6200 redline == 62 MPH in 
2nd whereas 4.10 and 6200 == 65 mph... hmmmm, maybe still too low to avoid 
the upshift to third on occasion (we run airport autcorsses in our 
regions, so we can see some speeds in excess of 80 in prepared cars.)

Just curious what anyone has to offer on the matter.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From rocky at spitfire4.com  Tue Jul 14 22:40:15 2009
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 23:40:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907142209450.3085@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <35A563DDEDB644B8B94B0DD72531EF0C@rocky>

Just IMHO -- for autox the lower gears work better. Thing is, since every 
event is a new course you can't tune to the track like you can road racing. 
I have a 4.55 in my Spitfire. I'll go to one event and do the whole course 
in 2nd, another and I'm rowing back and forth 2nd and 3rd. And you never 
know which until you get there. Changing rear ends is too complex and time 
consuming for tuning for an autox course. So you learn to row when you need 
to. Sometimes short-shifting. Shifting is only a waste when you spend so 
little time in the new gear as to have made it not worth the trouble, but if 
you can get a couple of seconds or a couple hundred feet in the new gear, 
shift! And then learn how to smooth out your 3-2 downshifts (it's not really 
double-clutching but a little throttle blip helps)

My 4.11 hasn't been in the car since the last time I road raced at 
Hutchinson (airport course), which was in the '80s sometime. Even on 
dragstrip tracks like Memphis and the old Wentzville circuit, the 4:55 was 
overall better. At Hutch, the 4.11 was worth 4 seconds a lap over the 4.55. 
At Hallett, the 4.55 was worth 4 seconds over the 4.11. In autox, with the 
4.11 I could hardly get going and I'd give up a ton every time I needed to 
accelerate. I also used to run on 21-inch tires, now I'm on 20s (so's 
everyone else) for the gearing change. BTW, my local AX site is an 
ex-airport runway too, which tends to faster-speed courses.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:19 PM
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question


> Hi,
>
> I recognize that the answer to this question is more or less "find the 
> longest straight and gear up/down 'till you hit the redline just before 
> the brake point...
>
> But here's the question anyway - I bumped up the power in the TR6 
> autocrosser this year. There's enough bump (and it's not completely tuned 
> yet) that I can pretty much spin the wheels at will in 2nd, or so it 
> seems. I also observe that the rears are running hotter than the fronts - 
> this is new territory for me, it's always been the other way 'round.
>
> At any rate, shifting in autox is mostly a waste unless you consider the 
> effects of running the motor to beyond the $$$ indication on the rev 
> counter, SO - if you're gear too low (numerically higher) - say 4.33 - and 
> you happen to have a spare diff with 4.10 gears, would an increase in 
> available power combined with the higher gear (numerically lower, 4.10 in 
> this case) balance things out so you don't have to row through the gears 
> as much?
>
> What I get with my gears spreadsheet is 4.33 and 6200 redline == 62 MPH in 
> 2nd whereas 4.10 and 6200 == 65 mph... hmmmm, maybe still too low to avoid 
> the upshift to third on occasion (we run airport autcorsses in our 
> regions, so we can see some speeds in excess of 80 in prepared cars.)
>
> Just curious what anyone has to offer on the matter.
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 06:02:18 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:02:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he was
autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
Second?
Thanks, Bill

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul 15 06:21:10 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:21:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] nomination
In-Reply-To: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
References: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <20090715122128.9676C18766E@autox.team.net>

Sure, I'll second that one!

- Tony Drews

At 07:02 AM 7/15/2009, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote:
>Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
>I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
>Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
>I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he was
>autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
>Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
>E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
>Second?
>Thanks, Bill

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 06:23:00 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:23:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <004a01ca0546$fe997580$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, I hope this makes it onto the list; first attempt at it. Also a
computer klutz.

 I did the vintage event at BeaveRun last weekend, near Pittsburgh. Had a
blast, especially after moving to a smaller run group. Actually passed some
guys and did some dicing!
 There was a driver school Friday and a fair amount of rookie stripes during
the races. And a very large amount of very large smiles after the races from
the aforementioned rookies! And lots fof thumbs-ups.
 I talked with Jason Sukey, who was autocrossing his Mini, and many other
Triumph fans.
Also Dan Styduhar, who was autocrossing his TR3A.
 The weather was good, except for a little rain around noon Saturday. Also a
good turnout, a few more vintage cars than last year. The organizers were
pleased.
 The VRG is a great bunch to run with. Very friendly and easy-going, but
serious about having fun. One of the organizers came up to me as I was loading
up and thanked me for doing the event! How often does that happen?
 I'm going to Schenley Park(Pittsburgh) this weekend for the PVGP event. Maybe
see some of you there.
 Bill Tobin  Erie, PA, where Big Bad Voodoo Daddy put on a free concert at a
park by the Bay last night; great time.

From mpendy at dishmail.net  Wed Jul 15 08:38:32 2009
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:38:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
Message-ID: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>

Hello FoT'rs; Quick question on the spindle reinforcing kit available for the
tr2-tr6. Has anyone ever experienced an installation where NO shims are used
on the spacer end and still have to much play? It appears that i need to have
my spacers milled down to accept some thickness of shims so i can adjust as
needed. The instructions state that most installs require about .007 to
achieve proper setting. The drivers side has .002 shim, but that will
deteriorate in short order on the track. The pass. side has NO shims and still
has movement. I have looked at all components till i am blue in the face and
cannot see an issue that may be hanging me up. Anyone run across the same
issue?? Thank You ! Mark Pendy #65 tr4

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 08:53:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:53:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
In-Reply-To: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
Message-ID: <20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Anyone run across the same
> issue?? 

Not the same issue, but a similar one.  Changing the bearings in a Stag
differential a few months back, I found I had to remove almost .030" worth
of shims to get back to the original clearance.  The replacement was thicker
than the original (which was slightly worn, but certainly nowhere near .030"
worth).

Only that one bearing was different; all the others matched the originals.
Don't recall the brand offhand, but it was a name brand like NTN or Timken,
not some offshore clone.

Randall

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 08:56:49 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:56:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 1968 Daytona 24 hours race report
In-Reply-To: <20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
	<20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA0E0@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Found on the internet: A race report on a TR4 that ran the 1968 Daytona 24
hour race.

http://www1.fccj.edu/jdebo/Daytona%2024,%201969.htm

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 09:37:47 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:37:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.ht
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Wed Jul 15 09:44:31 2009
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:44:31 EDT
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <c61.4f3ad861.378f535f@aol.com>

/R87dPm: Permission denied

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Jul 15 11:23:42 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:23:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>

Joe Hines where is he from or what area is he out?

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kramer, Robert
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:38 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; Andrew Kramer
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it
back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is
listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a
picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph
L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>
/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.h
t
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 12:17:31 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:17:31 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
In-Reply-To: <007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>
References: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA4CF@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Joe is/was from Statesboro GA. I talked with him this morning after I sent out
the email. The car definitely ran the 24 hour race, he says twice, and also
Sebring 12 hour and the ARRC in 1967. He got the car from a Julian Qualbaum
sp?, but he is the one that converted it to a race car. Some Morgan guy built
the engine. He was very proud of the welded diff because he did the work. I
think Detroit Lockers weren't yet available. In the 1967 ARRC he remembered my
current car and also said that nobody could stay close to the DP winning Yenko
Corvair. He has a picture to send me so I think I have found the beginning of
the trail.

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig [mailto:wensley_tr at comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 12:24 PM
To: Kramer, Robert; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; 'Andrew Kramer'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

Joe Hines where is he from or what area is he out?

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kramer, Robert
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:38 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; Andrew Kramer
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it
back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is
listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a
picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph
L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>
/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.h
t
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 15 16:04:11 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:04:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
References: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <C6B393D12D844C3990287728AD48E0C3@userb38463fba5>

I thought he was on the list?
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM TOBIN" <william.tobin3 at verizon.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 8:02 AM
Subject: [Fot] nomination


> Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
> I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
> Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
> I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he 
> was
> autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
> Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
> E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
> Second?
> Thanks, Bill

From gkbyrne at optushome.com.au  Wed Jul 15 17:11:41 2009
From: gkbyrne at optushome.com.au (Geoff Byrne)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:11:41 +1000
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
In-Reply-To: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
References: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
Message-ID: <35AF84D18DBC45F6BFC16F7374A85E00@GEOFFPC>

Mark
i had a lot of trouble with the shims in my TR6 race car . The small shims 
of .002 and .005 where getting crusted under racing loads and being spat out 
. I believe the contact surface was too small for the loads . I fixed the 
proplem by machining off  1/8 from the spacer them making up a thicker shim 
and hand fitting. Takes a lot of patience to get it right by surface 
grinding a bit at a time off the small shim. You must have .002 clearance or 
you will have bearing problems . How do I know???
Geoff Byrne
TR6 racer down under

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Pendergrass" <mpendy at dishmail.net>
To: "friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims


> Hello FoT'rs; Quick question on the spindle reinforcing kit available for 
> the
> tr2-tr6. Has anyone ever experienced an installation where NO shims are 
> used
> on the spacer end and still have to much play? It appears that i need to 
> have
> my spacers milled down to accept some thickness of shims so i can adjust 
> as
> needed. The instructions state that most installs require about .007 to
> achieve proper setting. The drivers side has .002 shim, but that will
> deteriorate in short order on the track. The pass. side has NO shims and 
> still
> has movement. I have looked at all components till i am blue in the face 
> and
> cannot see an issue that may be hanging me up. Anyone run across the same
> issue?? Thank You ! Mark Pendy #65 tr4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:25:26 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:25:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>

I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James' TR4.

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>
> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>
> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.
>
> For 2009 SOVREN will again be presenting the Columbia River Classic
> in Portland on Labor Day weekend- Sept. 5-7.  This year we are
> featuring Triumphs and are pleased to be hosting the 2009 Kastner
> Cup. We are determined to give you a high quality racing experience
> with the laid-back atmosphere that has been so popular at this
> event.  As in previous years, we will share PIR with the All British
> Field Meet, making the venue a delight for sports car fans.  Even
> more exciting news is that we have just learned that there will be
> no drag races at PIR either Friday or Saturday nights so we will
> have the whole paddock to ourselves and a peaceful evening for those
> who are camping at the track.  Our popular Saturday night vintage
> party and the track BBQ have been rolled into one extravaganza at
> the track on Sunday night.  There are many advantages to this- no
> long wait for that pesky bus or search for a parking space in St.
> Johns, no getting lost driving there, plenty of food for all and
> places to sit while enjoying it.  We will have music, good food,
> and, of course, the vintage fashions, so dust off those vintage duds
> and be ready to rock on.
>
> How can you help?  First, make sure you plan to enter the race and
> spread the word as you meet other vintage drivers.  The deadline for
> the early bird entry fee is postmarked by August 10st so dont
> forget to get your entry in by then. We had 165 entrants last year
> and hope to have as many or more in 2009.  If you want to be
> featured in the program we need your entry as soon as possible so
> please send it in earlier than the deadline!!!!!   The deadline for
> getting the finished program to the ABFM is August 12th  so we need
> to know if you are entering as soon as possible (and I promise I
> wont cash your entry check until September).
>
> Second, consider being a race sponsor.  To be able to complete our
> ambitious plans, we need to secure sponsors for each race so
> consider doing so for yourself or your company or with your race
> group. Your name will be listed as a race sponsor in the program and
> mentioned by our announcers several times during the event.  Well
> even give you four free passes and an extra parking pass for the
> weekend!  All this for just $250.  Contact Judy Buckingham at (425)
> 277-3177 or rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com.
>
> Saturday, Sept. 5 & Sunday, Sept. 6
>
> Group 1  Vintage & FV- $250                              Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 2-  Historic Small Bore            		    Sat.   Porsche
> Friends of Bruce     Ross
>
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 3  Historic Mid Bore & Sportsracers      Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 4- Historic Large Bore-                               Sat.
>
Sun
> .  #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 5- Formula Cars
> Sat.              	    Bonhams
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
>  Group 6- Exhibition/CanAm-                                Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
> 										    Sun. #2
> All Triumph Kastner Cup  Race - $500
> Sun.                        Horizon Racing
>
> Monday, Sept. 7  (2 Races each Group)
> Group 1  Vintage & FV                                         #1
>
#2
> Group 2-  Historic Small Bore                               #1
>
#2
> Group 3  Historic Mid Bore                                  #1
>
#2
> Group 4 - Historic Large Bore                               #1
>
#2
> Group 5- Formula Ford-                                         #1
>
#2
> Group 6  Exhibition                                            #1
>
#2
>
> You can see we have lots of races and lots of opportunity for
> sponsorship.
>  (NOTE- these groups may change depending on the entries received!)
>
> Another way to help would be to advertise your business in the
> program.  It is distributed to all of the racers, all 800
> participants in the All British Field Meet, and sold to spectators.
> Contact Doug Kirk at Douglas.k.kirk at boeing.com for ad
> specifications.  Contact Judy Buckingham to order ad.
>
> Rates:
> 1/4 page - $100
> 1/2 page - $150
> Full page  $275
> Inside front cover              Bonhams
>
>
> Lets all work together to make the Columbia River Classic a great
> weekend.

From mpendy at dishmail.net  Thu Jul 16 09:42:43 2009
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:42:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
Message-ID: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>

FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance problem.
The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to bearing,
same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since the
spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see that your
going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf and they
also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing the
spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had anymore
issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my question. Mark
Pendergrass TR4 #65

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Jul 16 10:24:52 2009
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:24:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
	<73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>

I believe this is Jeff Quicks TR4A, not John James TR4
http://www.sovren.org/default.html
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
To: "friends of triumph" <FOt at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic


>I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
> week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
> downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James' TR4.
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
>> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>>
>> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>>
>> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
>> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.

From billb at bnj.com  Thu Jul 16 10:47:40 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:47:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
In-Reply-To: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
References: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
Message-ID: <A05D65B8-B51D-4AFB-830E-03B2DF87B7B6@bnj.com>

Something I have to work on with Peyote. I'm getting knock back now,  
because I left the clearance go too loose. I figured better off loose  
with a little bearing preload than tight.
On Jul 16, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Mark Pendergrass wrote:

> FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance  
> problem.
> The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to  
> bearing,
> same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since  
> the
> spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see  
> that your
> going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf  
> and they
> also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing  
> the
> spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had  
> anymore
> issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my  
> question. Mark
> Pendergrass TR4 #65
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From billb at bnj.com  Thu Jul 16 10:50:14 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:50:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
In-Reply-To: <595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
	<73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>
	<595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>
Message-ID: <A3EFCF3E-B958-4106-9E5A-F32BB35D1550@bnj.com>

Yup, I don't know how I could have missed that.

On Jul 16, 2009, at 9:24 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:

> I believe this is Jeff Quicks TR4A, not John James TR4
> http://www.sovren.org/default.html
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
> To: "friends of triumph" <FOt at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 3:25 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
>
>
>> I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
>> week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
>> downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James'
>> TR4.
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>>> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>>> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
>>> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>>> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>>>
>>> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>>>
>>> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
>>> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.

From jcjcarrera at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 18:21:42 2009
From: jcjcarrera at comcast.net (jcjcarrera at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:21:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Columbia River Classic!
Message-ID: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, Charly Mitchel is correct, the CRC cover poster is not mine, but Jeff Quick, a great TR4A originally raced by his Dad, Ray in the late 1960's. Understand his Dad was the 68 SCCA PNW Champion in this car. 



Hope to see as many of you as possible at the CRC and the All British Field meet held in conjunction with our SOVREN races! 



John James 

#116 

65 TR4 

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 20:12:03 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:12:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
Message-ID: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?

From malaboge at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 20:28:09 2009
From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:28:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>

Dude-
I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1" wide...?BUT it's?less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't, you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to change a belt...

I need a good belt myself....
Nick in Nor Cal




So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 20:37:10 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:37:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <95A2C9C6-8833-4903-A98D-4CF9B3553679@comcast.net>

sounds good, but actually the belt on the car and the replacement are  
both massively thick (3/4" est.) with kind of a cogged look on the  
inside.
might have to undo an engine mount and jack it up.  Hope the exhaust  
doesn't pull off the manifold.  sometimes one little a project leads  
to another . . .

On Jul 16, 2009, at 10:28 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Dude-
I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1"  
wide... BUT it's less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull  
the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't,  
you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil  
impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have  
settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to  
change a belt...

I need a good belt myself....
Nick in Nor Cal


So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul 16 20:45:07 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:45:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Columbia River Classic!
In-Reply-To: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryv
	ille.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090717024534.8B2E418767D@autox.team.net>

My entry went out today.

- Tony Drews

At 07:21 PM 7/16/2009, jcjcarrera at comcast.net wrote:
>Yes, Charly Mitchel is correct, the CRC cover poster is not mine, 
>but Jeff Quick, a great TR4A originally raced by his Dad, Ray in the 
>late 1960's. Understand his Dad was the 68 SCCA PNW Champion in this car.
>
>
>
>Hope to see as many of you as possible at the CRC and the All 
>British Field meet held in conjunction with our SOVREN races!
>
>
>
>John James
>
>#116
>
>65 TR4
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Thu Jul 16 20:53:41 2009
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:53:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
	<95A2C9C6-8833-4903-A98D-4CF9B3553679@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <94F6A5FB3F3C4FF69AFAFE364DCA44CA@Elliott>

On my 1958 TR3A, I can gain extra space by turning the steering wheel way 
over to the extreme lock on one side or the other.  I can't remember which 
side, but give it a try.  I use cogged belts and have no problem putting a 
new on on.  I twist the belt 90 degrees so I'm only trying to pull about 
1/2" past all the interference, not the full 3/4" width.  As for removing 
your old one, just cut it off.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen at comcast.net>
To: <malaboge at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question


> sounds good, but actually the belt on the car and the replacement are
> both massively thick (3/4" est.) with kind of a cogged look on the
> inside.
> might have to undo an engine mount and jack it up.  Hope the exhaust
> doesn't pull off the manifold.  sometimes one little a project leads
> to another . . .
>
> On Jul 16, 2009, at 10:28 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:
>
> Dude-
> I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
> the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1"
> wide... BUT it's less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull
> the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't,
> you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil
> impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have
> settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
> And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to
> change a belt...
>
> I need a good belt myself....
> Nick in Nor Cal
>
>
> So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
> I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
> changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
> aren't reliable?
>
> Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
> extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
> the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
> doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
> rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
>
> Any cheater tricks?
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Jul 16 21:33:18 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301ca068f$58c9a360$0a5cea20$@com>

Yup, you put a 2x4 or 2x6 on the bottom of the oil pan and jack the engine
up just enough to squeeze that thick old fan belt on. Just enough "give" in
those original motor mounts to lift engine enough to get the belt on.  I
remember the first time I had to do it.  Might have even carried around a
junk of 2x4 along with the spare belt in case I had to change it on the
road.  Never did, just kept a close eye on the belt.  Those old thick belts
used to crack and have to be replaced fairly often.  Common problem and
"back in the day" that's what everyone did.  Seemed like common knowledge
back then.

Tim Murphy
1961 TR4 #317 (Had a 1966 TR4A that I bought new and had for about 25 years
until the frame broke.  Sure wish RATCO would have been around then!)

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:12 PM
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 22:08:58 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:08:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
> 
> Any cheater tricks?

As noted, jack the engine up.  However, I believe the motor mounts were
supposed to stand tall enough to leave room to change the belt, with the
addition of shims if necessary.

Randall

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 17 00:57:36 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:57:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Try this:

Make the belt lose with unclamping the alternator.
Then jack up the engine a little (strong wooden board under the oil pan).
Then you can slip the thick belt through the gap between the crank extension
and he steering rack.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2009 04:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 04:59:45 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 06:59:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>
Message-ID: <8D8AB3D1-C30F-4CAE-BD0B-4F30D6CA2EFA@comcast.net>

thanks, all.  Sure is nice having this body of knowledge to tap into.
Love driving this old, faded, unmolested TR4!

On Jul 17, 2009, at 2:57 AM, MadMarx wrote:

Try this:

Make the belt lose with unclamping the alternator.
Then jack up the engine a little (strong wooden board under the oil
pan).
Then you can slip the thick belt through the gap between the crank
extension
and he steering rack.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2009 04:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Jul 17 09:18:55 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:18:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301ca06f1$e799ecf0$b6cdc6d0$@com>

I don't think the motor mounts allowed for changing the belt without jacking
the engine up a bit.  I'll have to look, but might even show or say that in
the original "Workshop Manual".  I do know, that even when the car was new,
you couldn't get the belt off/on without jacking the engine.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 11:09 PM
To: ''Friends of Triumph' Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

> Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
> 
> Any cheater tricks?

As noted, jack the engine up.  However, I believe the motor mounts were
supposed to stand tall enough to leave room to change the belt, with the
addition of shims if necessary.

Randall
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From KENMUN at aol.com  Fri Jul 17 13:01:14 2009
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 15:01:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery
Message-ID: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>

fot, i'm in the process of disassembling my tr3 vintage racer motor to find 
 the source of water in the oil and overheating. so far i've found a crack 
in the  #4 liner (it goes from the top down about 1 1/2" ), the #4 piston 
has a slight  indentation in the top as if it has contacted the head, the 2 
compression rings  are broken and the piston is cracked in the area between 
the compression ring  groves. i think the cracked liner explains the water in 
the oil and overheating  but, why did it crack? and how are the piston and 
ring problems related to the  liner crack? the motor is 87mm, 10.5/1 cr, 
liners up .005", steel head gasket,  and the motor had been running for about 1 
yr. thanks for any ideas. ken  m.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823307x1201398715/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Jul 17 15:45:34 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:45:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery
In-Reply-To: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>
References: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca0727$eb24b1d0$c16e1570$@com>

We cracked both #3 and #4 liners when we overheated due to the threaded end
of the water pump snapping off and ultimately throwing the belt off.  When
we took the head off there was water in the cylinders.  I'm thinking we may
have cracked the liners due to "hydraulic" pressure from trying to compress
the water that got into the cylinders.  Had similar cracks, vertical, down a
couple of inches.  As I recall, also scuffed at least #4 piston and maybe
#3.

Tim
1961 TR4 #317

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of KENMUN at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 2:01 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery

fot, i'm in the process of disassembling my tr3 vintage racer motor to find 
 the source of water in the oil and overheating. so far i've found a crack 
in the  #4 liner (it goes from the top down about 1 1/2" ), the #4 piston 
has a slight  indentation in the top as if it has contacted the head, the 2 
compression rings  are broken and the piston is cracked in the area between 
the compression ring  groves. i think the cracked liner explains the water
in 
the oil and overheating  but, why did it crack? and how are the piston and 
ring problems related to the  liner crack? the motor is 87mm, 10.5/1 cr, 
liners up .005", steel head gasket,  and the motor had been running for
about 1 
yr. thanks for any ideas. ken  m.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823307x1201398715/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)
Fot mailing list
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From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 17 20:15:21 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 22:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
References: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
	<A05D65B8-B51D-4AFB-830E-03B2DF87B7B6@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <008201ca074d$9ae11940$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  Hi all, when using the uprated spindles and assembling the whole thing, be
sure to put the spacer into the rear of the hub cavity first, then the rear
bearing, then the grease seal. Guess how I learned this?
  I talked to some guy at Grattan a couple years ago about those hubs and
mentioned that I goofed the first time I put them together; I thought the
spacer would slide in from the front. Oops!
  Turns out the guy was Uncle Jack! I think he changed the instructions.
  They are a great setup.
  Bill ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
  To: "Mark Pendergrass" <mpendy at dishmail.net>
  Cc: "friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion


  > Something I have to work on with Peyote. I'm getting knock back now,
  > because I left the clearance go too loose. I figured better off loose
  > with a little bearing preload than tight.
  > On Jul 16, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Mark Pendergrass wrote:
  >
  > > FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance
  > > problem.
  > > The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to
  > > bearing,
  > > same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since
  > > the
  > > spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see
  > > that your
  > > going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf
  > > and they
  > > also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing
  > > the
  > > spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had
  > > anymore
  > > issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my
  > > question. Mark
  > > Pendergrass TR4 #65
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > >
  > > http://www.fot-racing.com
  > >
  > > Fot mailing list
  > > Fot at autox.team.net
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From jfrymark at aol.com  Sat Jul 18 14:41:42 2009
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Mechanical Mystery
Message-ID: <603B6C4C-4010-4F14-88DA-4117AD657E9C@aol.com>

Ken,

What you describe is the result I found when the crankshaft let go  
between the third and fourth crankpins. It's amazing that the motor  
will run for awhile with a broken crank!

John Frymark

From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 16:43:23 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 15:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Tech help wanted..Lemons Race...$100.00
Message-ID: <8D1CF850B17E4BBE9AE37289A6DDE0BF@Bud>

Hi Gang...I thought some of you might be interested.If so contact Dan Radowicz
at his link below.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: dradowicz at sbcglobal.net
To: Dan Radowicz
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 3:12 PM
Subject: Tech help


      Ladies & Gentlemen:

      We're looking for a few good women & men (4-6) to help with tech
inspections at the Buttonwillow 24Hrs. of Lemons - August 14-16th.  Tech is on
Friday, from 11:30am till 7p.m., maybe earlier if all the cars get through
tech early.  Pay is $100 for the day, plus refreshments/food.

      Candidates need to have good common sense about car safety, racewear and
racecar prep.  We have a tech sheet that covers the important aspects of what
is required of the teams, so you're not sailing blind, and the rules are very
clear.  We divvy up into tech teams, so there is help if odd question arises.

      Contact me by email if you're interested.  We look forward to working
with you.

      Regards,
      drr
      925.736.8462

      p.s. If you're heading to Monterey, you could do both and have some
spending money in your pocket.

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Sun Jul 19 10:51:12 2009
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:51:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
Message-ID: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>

Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Jul 19 11:53:07 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 13:53:07 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
Message-ID: <c34.5d76d0e6.3794b783@cs.com>

Kevin,

I got one of Tony Vigliotti's "Ratco" accelerator cables for my AMBRO. I am 
very pleased with it. Very adaptable and targeted at the TR6.

Joe Alexander


> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Kevin

From Dlhogye at aol.com  Sun Jul 19 17:39:09 2009
From: Dlhogye at aol.com (Dlhogye at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:39:09 EDT
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/control arm bushings
Message-ID: <c76.4a80ac54.3795089d@aol.com>

Hello   FoT, 
   I've installed a new set of bushings on the lower control arms of my TR3 
and reamed them to fit the new trunnion pin. It seems that the inner pivot 
and outer pivot of the control arms are not in parallel. With the inner 
mounted up the outer pivot has about 1/8"+ gap between the trunnion. I have the 
problem with both sides. I realize that there are probably a number of ways 
to remedy the matter. Like bending or straightening the arms to make the 
ends become parallel or ream the bushings to a clearance that will make up the 
difference or replace the inner steel sleeve arrangement with polyurethane 
bushings to allow the trunnion to pivot without binding up. Its also possible 
that the inner pivots are not straight.
   Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
   Thanks,
    Dave H.


**************
An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in 
Just 2 Easy Steps! 
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hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyExcfooterNO62)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 19 19:47:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:47:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SPAM:  trunnion/control arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <c76.4a80ac54.3795089d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090720014742573.YDOQ21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> With the inner
> mounted up the outer pivot has about 1/8"+ gap between the trunnion.

That seems like a very small misalignment to me; even poly bushes should
easily deflect that much without binding.  I would go ahead and do a trial
assembly with all 4 arms and the correct clearances (but not the spring);
then see if it binds.

Randall

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 19 20:18:44 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:18:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees
Message-ID: <00d901ca08e0$68ed2930$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, I just found out that John Surtees' son Henry was killed in a racing
accident at Brands Hatch today in a F2 race. Seems another driver crashed,
lost a rear wheel, and the wheel hit young Surtees in the head. Surtees then
also crashed. He was only 18 or 19.

I saw John Surtees at my first GP at the Glen in '68; driving a Honda if I
recall correctly. Good driver, but didn't like the Chaparral too much in later
Can Am races, again if memory serves me.
Bill

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 20:24:14 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:24:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees
References: <00d901ca08e0$68ed2930$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <0A10C096017740178F9BE627DF985F0D@Bud>

Hello William....thank you for letting us know....That is.. 'Tough Stuff'
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM TOBIN" <william.tobin3 at verizon.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:18 PM
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees


> Hi all, I just found out that John Surtees' son Henry was killed in a 
> racing
> accident at Brands Hatch today in a F2 race. Seems another driver crashed,
> lost a rear wheel, and the wheel hit young Surtees in the head. Surtees 
> then
> also crashed. He was only 18 or 19.
>
> I saw John Surtees at my first GP at the Glen in '68; driving a Honda if I
> recall correctly. Good driver, but didn't like the Chaparral too much in 
> later
> Can Am races, again if memory serves me.
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 21:51:38 2009
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 03:51:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My apologies for sending an email though my aol address. A reply had the word
spam connected to it. I'm sending a return reply though my comcast address.


B Randall, thanks for your reply.
B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as soon as I
try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. I've reamed the bushings
to a close fit and they move freely until I try to tighten the gap. I've
opened up the diameter of bushes on one side, to what I feel is too sloppy, to
decrease the binding and I feel that this is also not correct because the
trunnion pin is now riding on a small portion of the bushing surface because
the pin is cocked in the bushing a bit. I think that I can make this work, but
it doesn't seem right. I have a factory service manual that describes to
trunnion set up and I have a good understanding of the process. This is
however my first attempt at setting up a TR and I'm wondering if this is a
typical sort of problem one might have. I'd really like to get it right and
not too tight.B 


B B Thanks again for the reply,
B B  Dave

From billb at bnj.com  Sun Jul 19 22:05:31 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:05:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
In-Reply-To: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <130D20C9-167A-4166-A3F4-0C4662954AAC@bnj.com>

You shouldn't do any of that. You probably have some bent parts that  
are causing the gap. Either the upright, or the arms are the most  
likely, but it could be anything. The parts should fit precisely and  
move freely.

If you stroke the suspension and the gap changes then you definitely  
have bent parts.


On Jul 19, 2009, at 8:51 PM, davehogye wrote:

> My apologies for sending an email though my aol address. A reply had  
> the word
> spam connected to it. I'm sending a return reply though my comcast  
> address.
>
>
> B Randall, thanks for your reply.
> B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as  
> soon as I
> try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. I've reamed the  
> bushings
> to a close fit and they move freely until I try to tighten the gap.  
> I've
> opened up the diameter of bushes on one side, to what I feel is too  
> sloppy, to
> decrease the binding and I feel that this is also not correct  
> because the
> trunnion pin is now riding on a small portion of the bushing surface  
> because
> the pin is cocked in the bushing a bit. I think that I can make this  
> work, but
> it doesn't seem right. I have a factory service manual that  
> describes to
> trunnion set up and I have a good understanding of the process. This  
> is
> however my first attempt at setting up a TR and I'm wondering if  
> this is a
> typical sort of problem one might have. I'd really like to get it  
> right and
> not too tight.B
>
>
> B B Thanks again for the reply,
> B B  Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 20 07:50:03 2009
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:50:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <481323882.1392973.1248097803704.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 08:52:37 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:52:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
In-Reply-To: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090720145237701.IHIP28563@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as soon
> as I
> try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. 

In that case, I agree, something is bent or out of line.  

If you can turn the trunnion with the arms in the 1/8" position, that would
eliminate the trunnion pin I think.  Likewise if it stays the same
throughout the range of motion, that would eliminate the inner pins.  That
leaves the arms themselves.  

Is there any chance the new bushings were reamed at an angle?  1/8" over the
length of those arms is still a darn small angle.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 11:15:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:15:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <277E538B7A1D49B99B38032835E52935@jdnet.deere.com>

> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

FWIW, after an original cable imported from the UK failed within a matter of
months; I asked a local bicycle shop for a "teflon lined brake cable".  It
works great for the throttle cable on my Stag.

They had various lengths, but I just got the longest one and trimmed it as
necessary.  Cost less than $10 in 2004.

-- Randall 

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 18:25:42 2009
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 00:25:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <277E538B7A1D49B99B38032835E52935@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1567789888.3510361248135942927.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I use a Lokar teflon lined cable setup from Summit.B  You have to do a little
modification to get it to work but it's good.B  Can get part number if
necessary.



aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 1:15:04 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Fot] Throttle cable

> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

FWIW, after an original cable imported from the UK failed within a matter of
months; I asked a local bicycle shop for a "teflon lined brake cable". B It
works great for the throttle cable on my Stag.

They had various lengths, but I just got the longest one and trimmed it as
necessary. B Cost less than $10 in 2004.

-- Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Tue Jul 21 12:10:12 2009
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 12:10:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
Message-ID: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>

I appreciate all the suggestions. The cable in question is for 71-73' Mark III
GT6.
But it's a rare item. As much as I hate to say, I guess Vicky Brit is the only
ones who may have it on the shelf. ($19.95) Am still looking around however.
Maybe NW British...
thanks much guys !

Kevin

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Jul 22 01:36:58 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 09:36:58 +0200
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAIBILTm1yBJHoWTPulh/N7QBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Maybe it is more TR4 style but I believe in throttle linkages more than in
cables.
I suppose more cables stuck than linkages and killed engines.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von KEVIN LYNCH
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. Juli 2009 20:10
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] throttle cable

I appreciate all the suggestions. The cable in question is for 71-73' Mark
III
GT6.
But it's a rare item. As much as I hate to say, I guess Vicky Brit is the
only
ones who may have it on the shelf. ($19.95) Am still looking around however.
Maybe NW British...
thanks much guys !

Kevin
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 08:50:14 2009
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:50:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
Message-ID: <cdf.531e2a03.37988126@aol.com>

In a message dated 07/22/2009 2:38:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr4racing at googlemail.com writes:


> Maybe it is more TR4 style but I believe in throttle linkages more than 
> in
> cables.
> I suppose more cables stuck than linkages and killed engines.
> 

Plus it's been my experience that if your car is not grounded properly, the 
system seems to want 'ground' via that cable.  More than once I've noted a 
'burnt end' on a broken cable, suggesting the break was electrical and not 
stress related.

Bill Dentinger



**************
What's for dinner tonight?  Find quick and easy dinner ideas 
for any occasion. 
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?ncid=emlcntusfood00000009)

From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Thu Jul 23 08:53:01 2009
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:53:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>

/cVfBdi: Permission denied

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul 23 11:22:44 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:22:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] More on AOL
In-Reply-To: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
References: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>

> /cVfBdi: Permission denied
>
>   
Another fine "feature" of AOL is the way it sends out badly formed
HTML in email.  All mail to the various Team.Net goes through a
filter to remove attachments, viruses, etc. and converts it to plain
text if send in HTML.  I don't know if there is an easy way for AOL
folks to send out mail in plain text only.  Maybe just trying different
fonts might do the trick.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 23 11:41:47 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:41:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More on AOL
In-Reply-To: <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>
References: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
  <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <31FEC220AA374C2B82D717A5712CB89E@jdnet.deere.com>

> I don't know if there is an easy way for AOL
> folks to send out mail in plain text only.  Maybe just trying different
> fonts might do the trick.

This site
http://www.amsat.org/amsat/listserv/aol.html
has information that may or may not be helpful.  

Apparently it is easy if you are using AOL 9.0; impossible if you are using
AOL 8.0; somewhat obtuse for 6.0 and 7.0.

According to
http://www.miniature.net/smallstuff/aol.htm
it's pretty easy for AOL web mail.

Randall

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 24 12:37:26 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:26 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR3A wiring harness available
Message-ID: <bca.51a56a7d.379b5966@cs.com>

FOT,-

I bought a new wiring harness for a later TR3A thinking I would use it on 
the AMBRO.

The wiring harness is entirely custom now and just about finished. (Noises 
by the end of the week?)

I could restock with TRF, but thought I would offer to FOT and TR lists.

Contact me for details.

Thanks,  Joe Alexander

From GRMTim at aol.com  Fri Jul 24 12:37:34 2009
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:34 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
Message-ID: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>

I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car 
more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well. The 
current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens 
next.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040


In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:


> 
> AMICI
> For those who have done it.
> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
> 
> Thanks for any insight
> Dennis
> 








**************
A bad credit score is 600 &amp; below. Checking won't affect your 
score. See now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)

From andre at gt6.ca  Fri Jul 24 12:53:18 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:53:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
In-Reply-To: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
References: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>

Was looking at the list today.

Only 5 Triumphs listed, 3 true cars, 1 Devin and 1 unknown.

Group 1A
117 Green 1938 Triumph 1267c Dick Jeffery Hillsborough, CA

Group 3A
29 BRG 1955 Triumph TR2 1991c David Nelson Geyserville, CA

Group 3B
44 White 1966 Triumph GT6 1990c Tim Suddard Ormond Beach, FL
116 Blue 1965 Triumph TR4 2188c John James Gig Harbor, WA

Group 5A
189 Red 1956 Devin-Triumph 2200c John G. Miller Laguna Hills, CA


2009/7/24  <GRMTim at aol.com>:
> I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car
> more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well. The
> current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens
> next.
>
> Tim Suddard
> Publisher; Classic Motorsports
> and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
> www.classicmotorsports.net
> www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
> Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>
>>
>> AMICI
>> For those who have done it.
>> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
>> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
>>
>> Thanks for any insight
>> Dennis
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************
> A bad credit score is 600 &amp; below. Checking won't affect your
> score. See now!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
> hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 13:03:03 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2009 Kastner Cup shirts
Message-ID: <689395.58714.qm@web57608.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

FOT:
 
Informatioin regarding shirts for this years Kastner Cup as been posted at the
Columbia River Classic (CRC) website's link.  These are high quality shirts
and run true to size; hey if I purchase cloth from this company it's got to be
good.  If I can show some bias, I believe the design of these shirts is
extremely good.  You can access the CRC website at:
 
http://www.crclassic.com/ 
 
Bill Babcock did indicate that he hopes to clean up the layout when he has
time later.
 
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me for assistance and I
will get you an answer.
 
Enjoy,
 
Ernie
 
 

From westerneagleracing at att.net  Fri Jul 24 13:22:32 2009
From: westerneagleracing at att.net (westerneagleracing at att.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:22:32 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
	<4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <072420091922.21991.4A6A09F7000B9BE3000055E722243322829B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>

That has to be a record for Triumph under Steve Earle!  Anybody know who is in
the running for the new contract?
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing
-------------- Original message from Andre Rousseau <andre at gt6.ca>:
--------------


> Was looking at the list today.
>
> Only 5 Triumphs listed, 3 true cars, 1 Devin and 1 unknown.
>
> Group 1A
> 117 Green 1938 Triumph 1267c Dick Jeffery Hillsborough, CA
>
> Group 3A
> 29 BRG 1955 Triumph TR2 1991c David Nelson Geyserville, CA
>
> Group 3B
> 44 White 1966 Triumph GT6 1990c Tim Suddard Ormond Beach, FL
> 116 Blue 1965 Triumph TR4 2188c John James Gig Harbor, WA
>
> Group 5A
> 189 Red 1956 Devin-Triumph 2200c John G. Miller Laguna Hills, CA
>
>
> 2009/7/24 :
> > I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car
> > more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well.
The
> > current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens
> > next.
> >
> > Tim Suddard
> > Publisher; Classic Motorsports
> > and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
> > www.classicmotorsports.net
> > www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
> > Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:
> >
> >
> >>
> >> AMICI
> >> For those who have done it.
> >> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
> >> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
> >>
> >> Thanks for any insight
> >> Dennis
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > **************
> > A bad credit score is 600 & below. Checking won't affect your
> > score. See now!
> >
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http
://
> www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&
> > hmpgID=62&bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 16:25:23 2009
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:25:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR4A head needed
Message-ID: <724086011.4103041248474323665.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello FoT,
B B I'm looking for a TR4A cylinder head for my racecar project TR3A. The one
with the small ports and same size valve guides on both intake and exhaust.
I'm located in Santa Cruz, Ca. The closer the better for shipping purposes.
I'd appreciate it.
B B Thanks,
B B  Dave Hogye

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jul 24 20:14:41 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:14:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
Message-ID: <0KNB00MVTFKGK42A@vms173003.mailsrvcs.net>

The lead washer which seals the oil pressure relief screw in the 
filter head is NLA.  What are folks using as an effective replacement?

tia

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Fri Jul 24 20:18:54 2009
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:18:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
Message-ID: <944663.97190.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim: I use solder. I make a ring the same diameter as the screw out of a piece
of solder. When you tighten it down it seals great!
-Ed-

--- On Fri, 7/24/09, J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net> wrote:


From: J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 24, 2009, 9:14 PM


The lead washer which seals the oil pressure relief screw in the filter head
is NLA.  What are folks using as an effective replacement?

tia

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

http://www.fot-racing.com

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From dave at microworks.net  Fri Jul 24 20:24:51 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:24:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <20090725022517.68C6C18764A@autox.team.net>

/P7jYCt: Permission denied

From dave at microworks.net  Fri Jul 24 20:33:29 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:33:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>

Nice...

>From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
>To: <dave at microworks.net>
>Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
>I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX 
>Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>George
>
>
>George & Charisse Montgomery
>Escapees #36965
>George's cell:  830-285-1059
>Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
>georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
>From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
>Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
>To: Michael Connally
>Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
>This guy seems to have Lotus 
>heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
>I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle 
>for the building.
>
>"Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
>Michael Connally
>mcfoto at att.net

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 24 20:46:45 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:46:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
In-Reply-To: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <040017713AF042A8B5B5A2966C54107B@joepentiumnew>

Must be nice!



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David W. Riddle
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 7:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas

Nice...

>From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
>To: <dave at microworks.net>
>Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
>I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX 
>Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>George
>
>
>George & Charisse Montgomery
>Escapees #36965
>George's cell:  830-285-1059
>Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
>georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
>From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
>Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
>To: Michael Connally
>Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
>This guy seems to have Lotus 
>heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
>I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle 
>for the building.
>
>"Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
>Michael Connally
>mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From s.janzen at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 18:30:23 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
In-Reply-To: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DDD51479-685F-485F-BC89-EC6EC2687DC8@comcast.net>

Looks like a waxer, not a racer.  Needs a lot more tools, spares and  
projects.  I could really fill that space over time.
Plus, really needs a hoist on an overhead beam, to pull the engines  
and drop them on a bench.

On Jul 24, 2009, at 10:33 PM, David W. Riddle wrote:

Nice...

> From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
> To: <dave at microworks.net>
> Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
> I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX  
> Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
> George
>
>
> George & Charisse Montgomery
> Escapees #36965
> George's cell:  830-285-1059
> Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
> georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
> From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
> Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
> To: Michael Connally
> Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
> This guy seems to have Lotus heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
> I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle  
> for the building.
>
> "Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
> Michael Connally
> mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 18:42:59 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:42:59 EDT
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <c68.5176cc9a.379e5213@aol.com>

Wow!! Thank You!
 
I went on a big cleaning spree after looking at those pics not quite  
understanding why my effort wasn't so organized.  (I'm a slob)  But  we'll ignore 
that...
 
I've got shit piled everywhere cuz it's all current projects.  Ohh,  
allright, I've not done a thing with it in four months but it's still a current  
project...
 
Just today I put three cranks and one block into the back of the E to go to 
 the machine shop tomorrow so that cleared a lot of space...
 
 
In a message dated 7/26/2009 5:36:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
s.janzen at comcast.net writes:

Looks  like a waxer, not a racer.  Needs a lot more tools, spares and   
projects.  I could really fill that space over time.
Plus, really  needs a hoist on an overhead beam, to pull the engines  
and drop them  on a bench.

On Jul 24, 2009, at 10:33 PM, David W. Riddle  wrote:

Nice...

> From: "George M Montgomery"  <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
> To:  <dave at microworks.net>
> Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners  of Texas
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
> I  received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX  
>  Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>  George
>
>
> George & Charisse Montgomery
>  Escapees #36965
> George's cell:  830-285-1059
> Charisse's  cell:  936-933-0134
>  georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
> From: John  Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
> Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06  PM
> To: Michael Connally
> Subject: Received from the Mini Owners  of Texas
>
> This guy seems to have Lotus heaven.   
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
> I  thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle   
> for the building.
>
> "Why must we grow so soon Old, and  so late Smart?"
> Michael Connally
> mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 10:37:21 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:37:21 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Spit cam bearings
Message-ID: <c7f.35260f5d.379f31c1@aol.com>

Amici,
 
Anybody have the part number for The Spitty cam bearings in the MK2?   I 
can't seem to put my hand on it even though I've bought them dozens of  
times...???
 
Steve
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From Guyots3 at wmconnect.com  Mon Jul 27 22:09:37 2009
From: Guyots3 at wmconnect.com (Guyots3 at wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:09:37 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Camshaft Bearings part
Message-ID: <ccd.5c744945.379fd401@wmconnect.com>

Camshaft Bearings part #  142647/8

Leon

From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:00:55 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:00:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 with a V8
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7D41118766F@autox.team.net>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1272764148.html

From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:03:43 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:03:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Why!
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>

A Mustang II 4 cyl in a TR3.  For the love of all that is Holy WHY!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1251923041.html

From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:01:19 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:01:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Frame
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7CED218766C@autox.team.net>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1271862449.html

From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 01:57:52 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:57:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>

Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 04:08:42 2009
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 03:08:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Why!
In-Reply-To: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>
References: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <638699.2773.qm@web80801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

4 speed suspension. That's even more interesting. I wonder what
would happen
if you put a different transmission in it.
________________________________
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 4:03:43
AM
Subject: [Fot] Why!

A Mustang II 4 cyl in a TR3.  For the love of all that
is Holy WHY!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1251923041.html
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

http://www.fot-racing.com

Fot mailing list
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From herald948 at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 08:03:50 2009
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:03:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
In-Reply-To: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
References: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>

 Agreed; I'd have said "bronze"! :-)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 3:57 am
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad









Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...?
?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html 

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Jul 28 08:25:31 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:25:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
In-Reply-To: <8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
	<8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004401ca0f8f$43944190$cabcc4b0$@net>

Well it got Dave to look

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andrew Mace
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 10:04 AM
To: dave at microworks.net; members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Gotta love this ad

 Agreed; I'd have said "bronze"! :-)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 3:57 am
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad









Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...?
?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 17:50:38 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:50:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

It has been suggested that I provide instructions for order shirts via PayPal
so here goes.

The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts for the
2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Is to finish the transaction including information in the message
section indicating what size and quantity shirts you have ordered and if you
will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your order shipped
to you.  Then submit order.  You should receive an email confirmation that
your order has been sent.

This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very simple.  If I
can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that can't do
the same.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

I will try to post these message every couple days.

Thank you,

Ernie

From Billb at bnj.com  Tue Jul 28 18:44:16 2009
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 17:44:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] shirt ordering instructions
In-Reply-To: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79E249DB-7138-49C3-9B59-570456FFE400@bnj.com>

Ernie. I've been out of town. Back Thursday and I'll fix things up to  
make it easier


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 28, 2009, at 4:50 PM, Ernest Husmann <ehusmann53 at yahoo.com>  
wrote:

> It has been suggested that I provide instructions for order shirts  
> via PayPal
> so here goes.
>
> The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts  
> for the
> 2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.
>
> Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:
>
> https://www.paypal.com/
>
> Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will  
> appear;
> right click on "Send Money Online"
>
> If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login  
> procedures.
>
> Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com 
> ),
> next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase,  
> select Goods,
> then Continue.
>
> Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a  
> page to set
> up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree  
> and Create
> Account"
>
> Step 5: Is to finish the transaction including information in the  
> message
> section indicating what size and quantity shirts you have ordered  
> and if you
> will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your  
> order shipped
> to you.  Then submit order.  You should receive an email  
> confirmation that
> your order has been sent.
>
> This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very  
> simple.  If I
> can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that  
> can't do
> the same.
>
> Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
> http://www.crclassic.com/
>
> If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
> ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.
>
> I will try to post these message every couple days.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From deweerdm at rogers.com  Tue Jul 28 21:17:48 2009
From: deweerdm at rogers.com (Mike Deweerd)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:17:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Radiator
Message-ID: <CA4AEB398E554CE7A0BE0651EFE728B3@YOUR0463A45548>

Hello everyone
I'm currently running the stock Tr-4 rad in my race car and have just run into
some overheating problems, Can anyone suggest which aftermarket rad is best to
use, one that doesn't require a lot of retro-fitting is best as time is short
before next race. Thanks
Mike Deweerd  62-TR4 # 77

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 29 07:59:54 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:59:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <857180.60254.qm@web57609.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

FOT:
 
I have made revisions to step 5, hopefully clarifying the final step.
 
To allow adequate time for production and shipping, you should have your order
in no later than August 6.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie
 

The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts for the
2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select
Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to
set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Finish the transaction including information in the message
section (located at the very bottom past the "Send Money"
button): indicating:

 
a. What size and quantity shirts you have ordered 
 
b. If you will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your
order shipped to your home; ensure I have a shipping address.

c. Then submit order by clicking "Send Money". 
 
You will receive an email confirmation from PayPal that your order has been
sent.
 
This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very simple.  If I
can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that can't do
the same.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

I will try to post these message every couple days.

Thank you,

Ernie
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 10:39:05 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:39:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
Message-ID: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Greetings FoT,



B 

I have recently considered a dual air/fuel ratio gauge for the car right up
until I found

out how much the buggers cost. Ibm seeing $ 450.00 and up for a dual A/F

setup. That leads me to an EGT system at less than half the cost.

After some study it seems that an EGT reading is only a relative measurement

and unless the temps at a given moment can be directly compared with the
actual A/F ratio then itbs really only numbers on a gauge. There is
information that will say when you get to a certain EGT your about to melt
pistons but no useful info that says

a given EGT is the perfect AFR.



B 

My question is, how do you folks that are using EGTbs use the data?

I know that we canbt actually compare temps from one car to the next because

of the wide range of minute details that will skew the numbers but in general

what do you get from and EGT.



B 

It seems to me that I would have to have corresponding AFR numbers to match to
the

EGT and that would change with any change whatsoever in ignition timing, spark
plug type/gap, mixture, fuel type and altitude. (Ibm at 5000 feet so that
can happen B  +/- 1000 ft.) I wonbt even get into cam timing or ambient
temps & air density.



B 

I would much prefer a dual AFR but not at the prices Ibm seeing. If anyone
knows

of a dual AFR setup for a more reasonable price, please by all means clue me
in.



B 

Thanks again FoT,

Jim G

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 11:36:30 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:36:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Jim,

Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes
in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at
one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my
race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge.
We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for
gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Jul 29 11:54:24 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:54:24 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
Message-ID: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded fuel
and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is leaded.
At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for Susan's
spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad

From emanteno at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 11:59:58 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:59:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
Message-ID: <354a1780907291059s3821b501k5f02acae35bc9bfe@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 12:54 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:

> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
> fuel
> and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
> leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............


Depends on the track. The race gas at Road America, for example, is
unleaded.

Irv Korey

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 12:21:34 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:21:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 110 Octane and Sensor on AFR's
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE3@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Brad,

While that is true the "die" time is very very long with the mileage we
do racing. I got info from my Auto Meter vendor that it'll last me
longer than I can race probably. Plus the sensor is very easily replaced
and considering not terribly expensive either. Now for a street car at
20,000 miles per year a totally different deal!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 12:24:23 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:24:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Pricing
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE5@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Irv,

Just depends on the "style" of gauge you select. Go to Autometer.com and
see which "look" you want. Let me know and I'll get you a price.  Send
it to info at dieselperformanceparts.com
Triumph racers discount always applies. Ask Brad or Susan they'll tell
you.


Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 12:52:58 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:52:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <1977611311.4624511248890264608.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <966716613.4643581248893578132.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Mark, 

>From what I know at this point I definetly agree, the AFR is more relevant. 

I think my logic in wanting two AFR meters is flawed. 

If I were still running the ZS's with variable mixture it would make more sense to have two. 

I have Mikuni HSR 45's now so my settings in large are fixed until I swap jets or jump the needles. 

There would be no reason for different readings between the two carbs other than debris or something 

affecting fuel flow. The Mikuni's are real good about staying syncronized which I suppose would also cause a different AFR between the two. I would be interested in the AFR meter if you would like to discuss off-list. 

Thanks, 

jg 






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info" <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 11:36:30 AM GMT -07:00 Chihuahua / La Paz / Mazatlan 
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges 

Jim, 

Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes 
in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at 
one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my 
race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge. 
We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for 
gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant. 

Mark Craig 
Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 
411 Allied Drive 
Nashville, TN 37211 
866-455-7788 Phone 
615-834-9923 Fax 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Fot mailing list 
Fot at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 

From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 14:06:26 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:06:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
Message-ID: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>

AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.

And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.   

I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race car,
since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.

Or is my medication level wrong?


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
To: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
leaded.
At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
Susan's spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96hsNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 14:53:44 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CF7@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Jim,

Not wrong just we will never likely drive enough miles to kill the
sensor in a race car and the information from an AFR is much more
relevant. You also have to get a wide band AFR or it'll be useless.
Check around with your race engine shops that dyno their engines prior
to installation, they all use an Innovative or some other brand wide
band AFR while tuning, They never replace the sensors.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 15:13:41 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:13:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Leaded vs Unleaded for vintage racing
Message-ID: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>

While I'm in a regroup/research mode, what's the feeling on leaded vs
unleaded in TRs, Spitfires more specifically.

I started driving as leaded was being phased out, and there have been many
variations on the urban legends regarding using unleaded in cars designed
prior to the 1970s.

One concept I've seen has it that using a tank or two of leaded in the
"pickling" phase of a new engine is enough to add lead to the valve seats,
good at least for a street car run on unleaded.

Hardened exhaust seats are good for a street car but can potentially drop
out of the head on a race car, causing other problems :O

Obviously, if you're running leaded fuel then it's not an issue.

Anyone running unleaded willing to share their experiences?


Just trying to improve the ride.



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfires.. And other toys

____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career to the next level. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYRam2xDhgIsYZ8xa764dfbmH2yIV7d5qYqv5GBXMkQOQc9f9ypl5m/

From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jul 29 15:44:26 2009
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:44:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaded vs Unleaded for vintage racing
In-Reply-To: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>
References: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <d9f7bd330907291444o23cd0472u60ecd13104a58c13@mail.gmail.com>

Well, my race car doesn't have hardened seats, but since the cylinders are
horizontally opposed, I don't worry about the seats dropping out no matter
what. ;)

Seriously, as the owner of a '76 TR6, I looked into it at one time and had a
chat with one of the reps from Mobil who came to the SCCA National
convention a few years ago. Here's what he said:

Bottom line: Don't worry about it.

Slightly longer version: The whole hardened valve seat thing was a great way
for a bunch of folks to make money on the switch from leaded to unleaded.
The lead was handy in the early days of engines, but was pretty much
unnecessary after WWII due to improvements in metallurgy and machining. Your
valves are far better, lead or no lead at 100k miles than those made prewar
at any point in their life.

So I put whatever is available in my race cars and non catalytic cars.
Street car gets unleaded to keep the cat alive. Doesn't seem to make much
difference.

On that note has anyone seen dyno results on the same engine with different
fuels? A matrix of HP vs leaded/unleaded by octane would be interesting.


On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Jim <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> While I'm in a regroup/research mode, what's the feeling on leaded vs
> unleaded in TRs, Spitfires more specifically.
>
> I started driving as leaded was being phased out, and there have been many
> variations on the urban legends regarding using unleaded in cars designed
> prior to the 1970s.
>
> One concept I've seen has it that using a tank or two of leaded in the
> "pickling" phase of a new engine is enough to add lead to the valve seats,
> good at least for a street car run on unleaded.
>
> Hardened exhaust seats are good for a street car but can potentially drop
> out of the head on a race car, causing other problems :O
>
> Obviously, if you're running leaded fuel then it's not an issue.
>
> Anyone running unleaded willing to share their experiences?
>
>
> Just trying to improve the ride.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> Spitfires.. And other toys
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career
> to the next level.
>
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Jul 29 15:49:11 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:49:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
Message-ID: <000101ca1096$68eecde0$3acc69a0$@com>

We have the EGT probes mounted about 1-2 inches from the exhaust manifold
flange, per the gauge instructions, with the probes on the #1 and #4 header
pipes.  We use them to adjust the mixture in the front and rear SU's (H6's)
and to get an idea if we are running lean or rich.  "Normal" temps are in
the range of 1100 to 1300 degrees.  We try to get about 1200 degrees at WOT
on a long straight.  1400 degrees would be way lean and anything less than
about a 1000 degrees would be rich.

 

We also use them for trouble shooting.  At Elkhart Lake last September we
had a problem where the front carb would go way rich on the front straight
and in the carousel.  The engine would really "load up" and then clear out.
We saw the #1 EGT drop to 8000-9000 when it loaded up.  First found a
sinking float in the front SU but that didn't solve the problem.  Solved the
problem over the winter by making some isolator blocks for the carbs and
also some carb jet "locks".  We had not had the problem before last
September but had put new Cambridge motor mounts in over the summer when I
did the sleeve and piston replacement.  The Cambridge mounts are quite a bit
harder than the Moss or Vic Brit ones which we had previously broken.

 

I think our main problem was the carb jet "sinking" due to a resonant
frequency vibration from the harder Cambridge mounts as Kas reported some
time ago in a post when he saw carb jets sink at a certain RPM on a dyno.
The combination of the isolator blocks and, mainly, the carb jet locks has
solved the problem.  We did an airport test and tune to try and duplicate
the long straight at Road America and did not have any problems.  Also, no
problems at Gingerman and Blackhawk (shorter tracks).

 

The EGT's were invaluable to pointing to the front carb going way rich.
Just took a little while to figure out why.  Have been running about 1300 on
the long straights now with the throttle shafts replaced (were very loose)
whereas before the new throttle shafts we were at 1150-1200.  I had the
wrong needles in the carbs (stock SA's that were set up into the pistons,
what came on the car).  Now have RB's per Kas's recommendation with his G3
cam and our compression of about 11:1.  Hope to do another airport test and
tune next month to see what the temps look like with the right needles.
Suspect we will be back to the 1150-1200.

 

Tim Murphy

1961 TR4 #317

From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 15:51:03 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:51:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
	<006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <673993c50907291451j7a667d3embde8a005e095adec@mail.gmail.com>

Wideband AFR's gauges are absolutely critical if you want to extract every
last bit of power out of your motor and keep it safe. However, you should
still learn how to read spark plugs as they will tell you things that the
wideband won't.

As far as unleaded vs. leaded goes, the sensors have no problem with leaded
fuel, but you should replace the sensor after two seasons of use. I think
replacement sensors are about $80. Cheap insurance considering the damage
that an over-rich or too lean condition can cause.


Also windband sensors are absolutely worthless if they're not calibrated
properly. Anytime you mess around with the exhaust system you should
recalibrate it. If access is easy, it's a 2 minute job.


Lastly, you can hook up your AFR gauge to a data acquisition system and
record what your motor is doing real time around the track. For those
without a data system, put the gauge in your in-car video's line of site so
you can see what it's doing. Hope this helps,

Bob Adams

From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 16:26:18 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:26:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A/F SU Carbs in-action
Message-ID: <673993c50907291526r6a325a40y8a799f5ea7a20ea3@mail.gmail.com>

While on the subject, some of you guys might enjoy this if you haven't seen
it already...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1YC_gS7aT0

From dave at microworks.net  Wed Jul 29 16:28:34 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:28:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
Message-ID: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>

With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured 
Massa (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have 
released a video message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuS5AwR5Xg

:)

From andre at gt6.ca  Wed Jul 29 16:42:44 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
In-Reply-To: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907291542n2b423554m37f6e29f22be0a4@mail.gmail.com>

4 world champs on the track at the same time.

Hell someone hire back JV and that other Finn and we'll have 6.

I'd watch that race for sure.

;)

A.

-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT/Ferrari 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

2009/7/29 David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>:
> With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured Massa
> (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have released a video
> message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jul 29 17:01:26 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:01:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
In-Reply-To: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907291900160.16536@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009, David W. Riddle wrote:

> With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured Massa 
> (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have released a video 
> message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuS5AwR5Xg
>
> :)

it wooda be bettah if dey use Da Stig

yo yo
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Billb at bnj.com  Wed Jul 29 18:40:32 2009
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:40:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
	<006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>

O2 sensors get poisoned but it's slow. In a racing engine your rings  
will have a shorter life.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 29, 2009, at 1:06 PM, "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.
>
> And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.
>
> I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race  
> car,
> since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.
>
> Or is my medication level wrong?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
> To: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
>
> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with  
> leaded
> fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110  
> octane, is
> leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............
>
> If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
> Susan's spitfire.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo  
> search features.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96hsNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 18:52:58 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:52:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]><006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
	<CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <002201ca10b0$2e3145b0$b6711342@jrg>

Well, it's been an interesting afternoon, both on list and off.

Sounds like putting in a new sensor every season (or two) on an AFR is good
enough, even on a car running leaded gas.

I appreciate the input both on list and off.


Cheers,

Jim

Dallas
Too many Spitfires, not enough time.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:41 PM
To: britbits at netzero.com
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges

O2 sensors get poisoned but it's slow. In a racing engine your rings will
have a shorter life.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 29, 2009, at 1:06 PM, "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.
>
> And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.
>
> I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race 
> car, since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.
>
> Or is my medication level wrong?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
> To: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
>
> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with 
> leaded fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 
> 110 octane, is leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............
>
> If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for 
> Susan's spitfire.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search 
> features.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96h
> sNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul 29 19:05:08 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:05:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony

From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:37:44 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:37:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003d01ca10b6$57657680$b6711342@jrg>

So...

AFR is short term (potentially) on leaded cars.  Especially good for
dyno/dial in attempts.

EGT is long term.

Or replace AFR sensors on a regular basis?   Is that what I'm hearing from
those that use them?



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfire(s) 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a quick check
that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and when the car runs
like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, give me something to help
diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put gas in
the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front carb or rear carb
problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the entire rev
range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed the new sensor over
the course of the dyno session - it was a standard single wire one from the
Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 19:37:56 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:37:56 -0600
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>

Now see, this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know 
how to use em. All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em
all. Or maybe a data logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension
telemetry too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback, thanks
Jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony

From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:43:01 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:43:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>
Message-ID: <004701ca10b7$1406ccd0$b6711342@jrg>

Jim,

Get a video camera (or digital cam w/ video) and aim it at the gauges.  And
try to remember what you were doing at that point on the course.

I do remember looking at my gauges shortly before # 1 piston melted.  Wish
I'd looked more often.  And understood what they'd told me.  It was all
Smiths at the time so nothing fancy... Just should have taken note of 190+
water temps and shut down sooner.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:38 PM
To: 'Tony Drews'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

Now see, this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know how to use em.
All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em all. Or maybe a data
logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension telemetry too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback, thanks
Jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


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From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:44:40 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:44:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FW: Re:  AFR vs EGT = brain damage (Action Required)
Message-ID: <004801ca10b7$4ef5ed80$b6711342@jrg>

wtf????

  _____  

From: postmaster at boxbe.com [mailto:postmaster at boxbe.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:40 PM
To: Jim
Subject: Re: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage (Action Required)



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Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
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From igofaster at charter.net  Wed Jul 29 20:38:08 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:38:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] new email address for Bobby Whitehead
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1245607201.15642.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090729223808.B8WHS.2621875.root@mp18>

Bobby Whitehead.... new email address... please update, I will not have charter in 18 hours...


igofaster at att.net

From stlnyc at msn.com  Wed Jul 29 20:43:40 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:43:40 -0600
Subject: [Fot] aluminum hubs
Message-ID: <BAY104-W49B8FCE3E6E574A680314DA130@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Has anyone ever gotten aluminum front hubs (TR3-6) from Moss Europe?  If so,
I'd like to hear about your opinions/experiences with them.  Suitable for
vintage racers?  Thanks in advance.



Fred Hodgson

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 29 22:16:20 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 21:16:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure
Message-ID: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>

A couple weeks ago at Fontana I shut down the engine after lap 6 of  
the first session of the weekend when my engine started making a  
metallic noise, bad news.
Pulled the pan at the track after much prodding from the guys to find  
the pan full of sparkling metal bits.   just pulled it apart tonight  
and found that the #2 rod bearing is in bad shape.
At first glance, most everything else looks pretty good.  The #2  
piston has slight scuff marks on the skirt and the crank looks good.   
The carillo rods have some dark heat marks near the destroyed bearing  
area.  The spun bearing lost about 3/8" of material at the front end  
and the rest of it is the full width.  In other words, one end is kind  
of pear shaped.

My #3 lifter is hammered too.  We'll see what else I find and I hope  
most of the parts are still good.  I'm sure that many grams of metal  
flakes have pumped there way into every part of the engine, including  
the oil cooler.  After more investigation, I'll see if the spun  
bearing is the culprit or perhaps the result of some other problem.

~Steve

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul 30 04:40:47 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:40:47 GMT
Subject: [Fot] 110 Octane and Sensor on AFR's
Message-ID: <200907300440643.SM07912@[166.70.182.42]>

Thats good to know about the sensor life.  Where in the exhaust header did you
install the bung?

Brad
.
>While that is true the "die" time is very very long with the mileage we
>do racing. I got info from my Auto Meter vendor that it'll last me
>longer than I can race probably. Plus the sensor is very easily replaced
>and considering not terribly expensive either. Now for a street car at
>20,000 miles per year a totally different deal!
>
>Mark Craig
>Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
>411 Allied Drive
>Nashville, TN 37211
>866-455-7788 Phone
>615-834-9923 Fax

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul 30 04:44:17 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:44:17 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Pricing
Message-ID: <200907300444299.SM07912@[166.70.182.42]>

I can vouch for his pricing for the FOT!  It's VERY good!

Thanks!

Brad


>Triumph racers discount always applies. Ask Brad or Susan they'll tell
>you.
>
>
>Mark Craig
>Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
>411 Allied Drive
>Nashville, TN 37211
>866-455-7788 Phone
>615-834-9923 Fax

From jsiam1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul 30 06:20:48 2009
From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 05:20:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Head WTB
Message-ID: <24040438.1248956448049.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi   All  I am looking for a rebuildable TR4 high port head.  Any one have one they can sell.  Thanks   Joe    818 350 6222

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 30 07:22:59 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 06:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] empty trailer
Message-ID: <998707.8883.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Will have an empty open bed 18/ft. trailer heading north from the
Louisville/Lexington, KY area to southeast Wisconsin over Labor Day weekend;
could be persuaded to detour to eastern Iowa.  If you have something you need
hauled contact me off the list to discuss.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie

From EDENMA at aol.com  Thu Jul 30 14:48:19 2009
From: EDENMA at aol.com (EDENMA at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:48:19 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 32, Issue 31
Message-ID: <c81.5662e26c.37a36113@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2009 7:49:11 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

Now see,  this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you  can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know  
how to use em. All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em
all. Or  maybe a data logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension
telemetry  too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback,  thanks
Jg
 
Jim:
 
I have an old Flight Engineer certificate I have not  used in many years 
and you have an extra seat!  I even live close and I'll  work for beer!  (No 
cheap industrial beer though!)  Much cheaper than  a data system if you don't 
mind the weight penalty!
 
Cheers!
 
Mark
62 TR4 #357
64 Spitfire #42





**************Hot Deals at Dell on Popular Laptops perfect for Back to 
School 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223105306x1201716871/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D9)

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Jul 30 18:03:48 2009
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (rkramer3 at austin.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:03:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale, lot's of financial interest,
 please  spread the word.
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE5@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <20090731000348.C3DTN.342492.root@hrndva-web13-z01>

Long story short, I bought a TR4 racecar for my son to race, then found a better one. Soooo I have an TR4 almost a racecar for sale (taking offers) and it is advertised in the VTR Classifieds at:

http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=4277


Here is the info I posted:

This is an interesting car. It is sort of set up for racing. The story is that a fellow named Elmer Peters raced a TR4A in the SCCA. At some point he wrecked the TR4A and converted his solid axle TR4 into a race car by moving over his race parts. I can find no evidence that he ever got this car on the track but maybe it was autocrossed, I don't know. 

For a street car it is in need of restoration but it is what they typically call rust free. There is surface rust on the frame but overall it does not appear to have any body issues. I got it out of Ohio but the car was reportedly from Florida. He took pains to not do anything to the body that was not reversible short of mounting the roll cage, seat and some accessories. Truthfully, this car can go either way, make it a race car or restore it to the original. 

I do not know the original color but it has a racer coat of thin maroon paint on it now. All the body panels are solid and you can see from the pics that they fit pretty well. 

My first impression was that the engine was the stock motor that came with the car but I have recently cleaned out the fuel syetem and replaced the old gas. I drove it yesterday and engine is better than I first thought. The new fuel perked it up and it didn't smoke like it did before I cleaned it out. It may be mildly race prepared as it has quit a bit of pep. The clutch hydraulics are a little weak, maybe needing to be bled again. It has a header a later long branch manifold and early H6 SU's, common for racing but I have the original manifold. It has an overdrive transimission and the rear axle is standard issue open gears (no Detroit Locker or Southwick conversion). The brakes have been rebuilt end to end with new Stainless Steel flexible brake lines and rebuilt cylinders and calipers.

I have a ton of spares that I got with the car including the seats, the old interior. spare differential, windscreen, top frame etc. I can make up a spares package from my other parts to suit the buyers tastes, either street car or race. There are the racing wheels in the pictures and another set of stock steel wheels, I think the hubcaps are in the spares but I can make no guarantees until the stuff is sorted.

I bought this car for my son to race but recently lucked into a better car for him, so this one has to go. 

You can contact me through email :
rkramer at rdoequipment.com or call me at work 512-272-4141 or nights 512-250-9498

The car is located near Austin Texas and I have lots of pictures that I can email you if you are interested. I paid $4500.00 for it but I am motivated to sell because the new TR4 took it's spot in the garage. 

From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu Jul 30 19:28:28 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:28:28 -0600
Subject: [Fot] - aluminum hubs
Message-ID: <BAY104-W14B15A7717DA5110B17934DA100@phx.gbl>

Amici-

I'm fully aware of the Southwick hubs.  I was trying to get
information/opinions on these particular hubs.



Fred Hodgson

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 06:29:30 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 06:29:30 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure
In-Reply-To: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>
References: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <931C86DF7812446C8F2EFFBCD505095E@hal9000>

Steve,
That's exactly what happened to me except it was # 3. It turned the rod blue
half way up to the wrist pin. My lifters were ok though.
My rod bearing squeezed out the side and the whole motor was full of
glitter.
All the bearings were toast but there were metal particles throughout
the motor. Some believe the fact I used .040 under bearings was the cause.
I had only one race weekend and some practice time on the motor.
It took out # 3 piston and liner as well and the piston was just starting to
contact the head.
jg


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Belfer
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 10:16 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure

A couple weeks ago at Fontana I shut down the engine after lap 6 of  
the first session of the weekend when my engine started making a  
metallic noise, bad news.
Pulled the pan at the track after much prodding from the guys to find  
the pan full of sparkling metal bits.   just pulled it apart tonight  
and found that the #2 rod bearing is in bad shape.
At first glance, most everything else looks pretty good.  The #2  
piston has slight scuff marks on the skirt and the crank looks good.   
The carillo rods have some dark heat marks near the destroyed bearing  
area.  The spun bearing lost about 3/8" of material at the front end  
and the rest of it is the full width.  In other words, one end is kind  
of pear shaped.

My #3 lifter is hammered too.  We'll see what else I find and I hope  
most of the parts are still good.  I'm sure that many grams of metal  
flakes have pumped there way into every part of the engine, including  
the oil cooler.  After more investigation, I'll see if the spun  
bearing is the culprit or perhaps the result of some other problem.

~Steve
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:15:54 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:15:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
Message-ID: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in WOOD . 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 31 11:28:46 2009
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBE01B7E110715-1714-FFF@WEBMAIL-MY04.sysops.aol.com>

Just a qualified comment:? It appears to?us that the Larry Young cam is perfect for our kind of vintage racing.

Joe A



-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 11:15 am
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two



I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and 
FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it 
with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to 
talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 
pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in 
WOOD . 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Fri Jul 31 11:42:15 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 12:42:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04410EF10D@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I've copied Larry so you can see his address. Larry, did my cores arrive
alive?

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 11:16 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two

I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and
FedX

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it
with the

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to
talk

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores.

Thanx

Jim G

PS

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80
pipe.

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in
WOOD .
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 31 14:28:48 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:28:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <121043.98928.qm@web57611.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

There were comments at the CRClassic website asking for instructions on how to
order shirts and I had indicated that I would post the instruction every few
days, so as a reminder here again are the instructions to order via PayPal.
 
Remember that the deadline for ordering is August 6.  Please do not wait until
the last minute.
 
Thank you,
 
Ernie

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select
Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to
set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Finish the transaction including information in the message
section (located at the very bottom past the "Send Money"
button): indicating:
 
a. What size and quantity shirts you have ordered 
 
b. If you will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your
order shipped to your home; ensure I have a shipping address.
 
c. Then submit order by clicking "Send Money". 
 
You will receive an email confirmation from PayPal that your order has been
sent.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

From gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 17:41:27 2009
From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:41:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>

One of them broke my brand new unground core in half and it WAS in schedule 80 plastic pipe!? Then the dummies swept up the cam pieces but saved the piece of pipe thinking IT was what I was shipping.? They couldn't see why I wanted $100 for a piece of pipe.? It takes all kinds...

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 9:15 am
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two



I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and 
FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it 
with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to 
talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 
pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in 
WOOD . 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Jul 31 18:05:33 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 18:05:33 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A7386CD.7030905@dfn.com>

gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
> One of them broke my brand new unground core in half and it WAS in schedule 80 plastic pipe!? Then the dummies swept up the cam pieces but saved the piece of pipe thinking IT was what I was shipping.? They couldn't see why I wanted $100 for a piece of pipe.? It takes all kinds...
>
>   

Good thing it was only a cam core, and not a $3500 Taylor guitar:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YGc4zOqozo



Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 11:51:13 2009
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:51:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <f99bbf590907291051qe962451v4d418b003416840a@mail.gmail.com>

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
leaded.  At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
Susan's spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad



On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 1:36 PM, Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <
info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes
> in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at
> one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my
> race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge.
> We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for
> gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant.
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From herald948 at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 13:52:25 2009
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 15:52:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <KAEJIJPKJJCCJMEHJDIIMENCCJAA.davlins@epix.net>
References: <KAEJIJPKJJCCJMEHJDIIMENCCJAA.davlins@epix.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD91D11BE3410-574-176E@mblk-d36.sysops.aol.com>

 I'm afraid I can't help you either way; sorry! I'm more a "small Triumphs" guy. But I'm copying a list of folks who might have some information.

FoT'ers, please make sure to reply to Dave, not me!


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sauter <davlins at epix.net>
To: herald948 at aol.com
Cc: Davlins at Epix.Net <davlins at epix.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2009 12:15 pm
Subject: TR6 Race Car










Good Morning,

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1971 TR6. I am told that the last 10
cars produced in 1971 were race cars. Can you tell me anything about these
and what they might be worth ??

Thank You
David Sauter

From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 17:32:51 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 19:32:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2008 SVRA Watkins Glen photos
Message-ID: <673993c50907011632y422ce5baxeff2a4bab54b4791@mail.gmail.com>

I found these online.. photos featuring Triumphs start on page 4.
http://www.chuckcarrollphotography.com/gallery/5937088_GcTME#P-4-24

Bob Adams


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 19:48:10 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 21:48:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2008 SVRA Watkins Glen and other racing photos
Message-ID: <673993c50907011848v1e340f5clfc613afc0bb12002@mail.gmail.com>

I found these sites through searching or on other forums and thought I would
pass them along (most galleries have Triumph photo's).

http://michaeldipleco.smugmug.com/

http://www.prphotographyonline.com/f906572098

http://www.chuckcarrollphotography.com/gallery/5937088_GcTME#369863189_9e4vF

Bob Adams


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 11:50:29 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
Message-ID: <44A09562A2BD41B59433ACA7CAFA283C@Bud>

from craig's list...Los Gatos, ca. ..40 miles south of San francisco
Racer Bud
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1249249036.html


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  2 12:28:20 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:28:20 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
Message-ID: <6247037.1246559300704.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Maybe John Nikas and his 24 hours of lemons class-winning TR7 crew is interested??

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2009 10:50 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
>
>from craig's list...Los Gatos, ca. ..40 miles south of San francisco
>Racer Bud
>http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1249249036.html
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From andre at gt6.ca  Thu Jul  2 20:32:55 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:32:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul  2 21:52:29 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:52:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <29E74DD0D62B49D29D1DC44FD4900496@joepentiumnew>

I don't think I am getting all the posts lately.  I see replies like this
one to posts that I never saw originally posted.  I think Mark has more
problems than just with AOL (which I am not on)!

But I would advise against flat towing a GT6 or Spit.  Even with the
driveshaft disconnected the rear wheels are turning and you would not be
able to hear any problems that might develop from the cab of the tow
vehicle.  The same applies with using a dolly.

The best thing is to get all 4 wheels off the ground.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 7:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 21:53:55 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:53:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C96379429F164795B98702B9EAA2511B@your4dacd0ea75>

I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which ties
the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side. 

I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
wheel...you only don't do this once...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 21:57:40 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:57:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>

Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your wheel
bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any real
problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for a long
time.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com] 
Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which ties
the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side. 

I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
wheel...you only don't do this once...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Jul  3 00:58:55 2009
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 23:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 1959 TR3A Triumph Street/Track - $8500 (willow glen /
	cambrian)
Message-ID: <4A4DAC2F.4070305@greenheart.com>

Noticed this on craigslist....  --Justin


1959 TR3A Triumph Street/Track - $8500 (willow glen / cambrian)
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1250516255.html


From andre at gt6.ca  Fri Jul  3 05:36:01 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 07:36:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks eveyone.

I'll forward your comments onwards.

For the race car I have been looking for options too.

I'll either go with a dolly;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Friday/slides/IMG_0198.html

or build a super light/simple trailer;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Saturday/slides/IMG_0257.html

But won't need one for a year.

A.

2009/7/2 Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>:
> Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your wheel
> bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any real
> problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for a long
> time.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
> To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
> take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which
ties
> the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
> was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
> through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side.
>
> I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
> lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
> caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
> wheel...you only don't do this once...
>
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
> Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.
>
> A.
> Date: 2009/7/2
> Subject: Towing a GT6
> To: andre at gt6.ca
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
> (all 4 wheels down)?
>
> I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
> steering will it track ok?
>
> My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
> bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
> and how?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  3 07:52:04 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:52:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Empty trailer OH>PA and back
Message-ID: <BAY123-W51C99AFCEC5D6092066D95BA2C0@phx.gbl>

There is a possibility that I might have an empty car trailer heading from the
TRF area to Northern Ohio Mid to end July and again from Norther Ohio to the
TRF area mid to end of August time frame. Can haul a car if anybody is in
need.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 08:09:31 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 10:09:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
	<4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <953DB6AB-B3B9-415C-98BD-65B7346D0F58@comcast.net>

I would go with a dual axle trailer even if it is lightweight.  I have  
had three tire blow-outs on my trailer, and am thankful for that  
second wheel/tire to pick up the load.  Make sure you use trailer  
tires  - car tires are not designed for the types of loads and heat  
that a trailer tire encounters.

On Jul 3, 2009, at 7:36 AM, Andre Rousseau wrote:

Thanks eveyone.

I'll forward your comments onwards.

For the race car I have been looking for options too.

I'll either go with a dolly;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Friday/slides/IMG_0198.html

or build a super light/simple trailer;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Saturday/slides/IMG_0257.html

But won't need one for a year.

A.

2009/7/2 Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>:
> Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your  
> wheel
> bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any  
> real
> problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for  
> a long
> time.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
> To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The  
> key is to
> take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front  
> which
ties
> the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel  
> which
> was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
> through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side.
>
> I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to  
> the trunk
> lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600  
> miles. One
> caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
> wheel...you only don't do this once...
>
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
> Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.
>
> A.
> Date: 2009/7/2
> Subject: Towing a GT6
> To: andre at gt6.ca
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
> (all 4 wheels down)?
>
> I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
> steering will it track ok?
>
> My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
> bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
> and how?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental  
> rugs!
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  3 12:29:44 2009
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:29:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stuff for sale
Message-ID: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>

First of all, Happy 4th of July to all.  It's because of this we can 
enjoy our cars.  This past May we bought out the collection of TR3/TR4 
parts from the estate of a customer (passed away form cancer).  Very 
little sheet metal and no seats.  But lots of TR3 engines, bare blocks, 
short blocks, long blocks, heads, cranks, liners, etc. We also have TR3 
seat tracks, windshield stanchions, reconditioned TR3 radiators, side 
curtain frames and more.  If you need anything along these lines, please 
ask. Thanks for your time.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From igofaster at charter.net  Fri Jul  3 12:38:24 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 11:38:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>

I bought this real nice race car cable release from Summitt.....   hooked it all up really nice....  checked all the operations... then shut the hood...

HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T DRIVE IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...

Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, lift the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...


HELP!!


Bobby Whitehead


From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 13:07:59 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:07:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
References: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>

if i recall correctly, the headlight removal is the way to go
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 11:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???


>I bought this real nice race car cable release from Summitt.....   hooked 
>it all up really nice....  checked all the operations... then shut the 
>hood...
>
> HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T DRIVE 
> IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...
>
> Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling 
> the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, 
> lift the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...
>
>
> HELP!!
>
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 14:18:26 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 15:18:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
References: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <354a1780907031318oe0f2ecekbe976a7cc357ae67@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 1:38 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at charter.net>wrote:

>
> Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling
> the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, lift
> the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...



Bobby,

The 6-Pack Club for 250's and TR6's has a forum where stuff like this is
discussed. Here is a link with many suggestions. You should find some help
here.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10184&highlight=hood

Irv Korey
74 TR6 Cf22767U
Highland Park, IL


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jul  3 14:47:46 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 16:47:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
References: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <0KM8001IH4FICQ1D@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

At 02:38 PM 7/3/2009, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>I bought this real nice race car cable release from 
>Summitt.....   hooked it all up really nice....  checked all the 
>operations... then shut the hood...
>
>HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T 
>DRIVE IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...
>
>Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about 
>pulling the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from 
>the body, lift the hood from the front and then see if I can 
>reach  the lever...

Bobby, I loosened the hinge bolts at the body and was able to raise 
the bonnet leading edge just high enough to reach in with a broom 
handle and trip the release.  Then I bought the emergency release 
hicky from Macy's Garage.  And of course have never had to use it.

jim



>HELP!!
>
>
>Bobby Whitehead
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 


From munsonsb at telus.net  Fri Jul  3 16:06:07 2009
From: munsonsb at telus.net (munsonsb at telus.net)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:06:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <27733341.119576.1246658767615.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edmwes92>



From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Sat Jul  4 12:55:19 2009
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 12:55:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] The Glenwood report
Message-ID: <20090704.125519.3504.1.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

The following has been stuck in administration since 6/26/09, so I'll try
again.

Henry,
Having been involved in some major efforts to get LBC's to and from
Glenwood in years past, I'm impressed and amazed by the accomplishments
on this one.
Bill
____________________________________________________________
Get the sign you need for the impact you want. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOAPbqZJRkdXwqXai3OY80m1EIFmzkMUwbzcbDvzOaDu8YFpdui9y/


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Sat Jul  4 22:19:09 2009
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 14:19:09 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090705041916.MGHD26776.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>

 I am having all sorts of quality problems with "new" trunnions. The ones
the local importers have, are just crap. The core plug at the bottom falls
out, they wont hold grease/oil due to design problems, the caster angle is
machined wrong, and some I screwed onto brand new vertical links, are a
sloppier fit than my 20 year old worn-out ones. 
Is this how they now are???. Does anyone know of a reputable source 
Thanks   Terry O'Beirne, Australia


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 13:10:18 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
Message-ID: <193ADE4CF20F4F969DF3E6115A0F760E@Bud>

----- Original Message -----
From: Rod Leavitt
To: Bud DeLauer
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:55 AM


>From www.musclecarclub.com:


YOU MIGHT BE A RACER IF ...



    * You think the primary purpose of wings is to PREVENT flight.

    * You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses or check
out cars.

    * You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to racing depth
and the wear bars are showing.

    * When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you
just saved.

    * Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you.

    * You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining.

    * You bought a race car before buying a house.

    * You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house.

    * You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture!

    * The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of
importance):

      1) 8 car climate controlled garage with an attached shop.

      2) Outside parking for 6 cars, a motor home, a crew cab dually, a 28'
enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel.

      3) 3 phase 220V outlets in the garage for your welder.

      4) A grease pit.

      5) Deaf neighbors.

      6) Some sort of house with a working toilet & shower on the property -
or - hookups for the motor home.

    * You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make car noises and shift
and practice your heel and toe, while waiting for your motor to get back from
the machine shop.

    * You have enough spare parts to build another car.

    * More than one racer supply store recognizes your voice and greets you by
name when you call.

    * You think the last line of the Star Spangled banner is: "Racers start
your engines!"

    * People know you by your class, car number, and car color.

    * You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped breaker bar
every other week or so.

    * Your family brings the couch into the garage to spend time with you.

    * A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query, "Synthetic or
organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn."

    * You enjoy driving in the rain on the way to work.

    * You always want to change something on your street car to make it handle
better.

    * You've tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix the
air filter on her station wagon.

    * You save broken car parts as "momentous".

    * You've found your lawnmower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but
doesn't particularly care for alcohol).

    * The local police and state highway patrol have a picture of your car
taped to their dashboard.

    * Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have time slips.

    * You quote your street tire wear life in weeks rather than miles.

    * After you tell your wife where you'd like to go on vacation she answers:
"Why...is there a race there?"

    * You know at least three 1-800 numbers to aftermarket parts houses by
heart.

    * You are on a first-name basis with owners of every local speed shop.

    * You want to take apart and rebuild things, even though they are not
broken.

    * You have the monetary equivalent of a lunar rocket invested in it, but
your car still won't cut a good light or run the number.

    * You own a vehicle that has at least 500 horsepower more than when it
came out of Detroit.

    * You look for hi-po cars in the movies and try to guess what engine size,
tire size, and whether or not it has nitrous in it.

    * You are the type of person who goes postal when you have to sit in a
traffic jam for more than five minutes, yet you can spend five hours in the
staging lanes.

    * Every stoplight becomes a practice tree to test your ability to tree the
guy in the other lane's eyes out.

    * You wash your car like it was your firstborn child, you tend to its
needs like it was your own body, you protect it like it's your family, then
you drive it like you stole it.

    * You understand racing is a way of life, not just a means of
transportation.

YOU MIGHT RACE A BUICK IF ...

*Race prepping your car means turning off the ac.

*You have a "Big is Beautiful" license plate holder.

*You have safety harnesses instead of seat belts for five occupants.

*You only have to be careful of traffic AHEAD of you when you merge onto the
Interstate

*Your race car has never been on a trailer.

*You think anything less than a 455 is a small block.

*You won't race motorcycles because it isn't fair . . . to them!

*You've ever had to take a different route because of bridge weight limits.

*You plan road trips from gas station to gas station.

*Your wife's car runs 12s.

*You painted your riding lawnmower black and turbocharged it.

*You think 5000 pound cars and station wagons are great dragstrip material.

*The wrecker service calls you when they get their rigs stuck.

*You have heard the phrase "That's a Buick!? from more than 5 punk kids in
Daddy's 'Vette after you shut them down.

*You have sucked so many bumpers off other cars, your car is nicknamed "The
Hoover."

*18 wheelers yield to you.

*You can fit a month of groceries in your trunk and still run 12s.

*You've ever been pulled over for failing to stop at a weigh station.

*Your car has more towing capacity than a one ton duelie.

*You think every race car should have ac and power windows.

*You get signed thank you cards from the presidents of Phillips 66 and Texaco
at Christmas.

*You think every four door should have a cam, headers and slicks and runs
12s.

*The phrase "231? Is that all?" and "That ain't no V6!" make the hair on the
back of your neck stand up.

*You've said "No, it's not an SS" more than 3 times this week.

*You've never seen the tail lights of a Mustang GT.

*Your friend's 5.0 'Stang runs 13s by being towed behind your car.

*The local Mustang guys are claiming they've been abused because your car
spanks them so bad.

*You've raced your daily driver against a tube frame, blown, nitroused big
block powered 'Stang . . . and won.

By Jason Green, Oklahoma GSCA Chapter




YOU MIGHT HAVE TO MUCH HORSEPOWER IF ...

1. The emissions test guy starts laughing as soon as you pull onto the
rollers.

2. You can't drive your car in the rain.

3. Your 'significant other' is afraid to drive your car.

4. You are afraid to drive your car.

5. You spend more on tires than on food.

6. You spend more on car insurance than on house payments.

7. You look in a state police car and see a picture of your car taped to the
dash.

8. You throw your underwear in the garbage rather than the hamper.

9. You have to go to the track to buy gas.

10. Your mechanic names the new wing of his shop after you.

11. Jacques Villeneuve and Michael Schumacher wave you by.

12. You can make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs.

13. You're tempted to wear your fire suit just to drive to the office.

14. Red signal lights shift to green as you're approaching then shift back to
red as you're receding.

15. You arrive somewhere before you left.

16. You get pulled over for doing 155 in a 35 but the cops will let you go if
"they can look under the hood."

17. You remove the $2000 stereo system to save 6 lb. of weight.

18. You are not allowed to run in the Silver State Challenge.

19. You get an anonymous phone call asking if you are interested in being in
the Cannonball Run.

20. Your face looks like you are riding a NASA centrifuge when you drive the
car.

22. You need parachute braking.

23. Your 'significant other' won't even ride in the car.

24. There is no possible way to "sneak out" of your neighborhood at 6 am.

25. Your pets scramble for their hiding spots as soon as the garage door is
opened. (Pets, and all the neighbors...)

26. Family photos throughout the house are replaced with life-sized posters of
your car.

27. Fuel is delivered to your home: in 55 gallon drums!

28. You carry earplugs in your car.(doesn't everybody???)

29. The only spot on the car which receives any regular cleaning is the
windshield. (what else is there to clean???)

30. You find out that side mirrors don't hold up at speeds exceeding 145 mph.

31. Young children cling to their mommies in fear when you round the corner.

32. Birds fall out of their nests from the rumble of your 5" dual exhaust.

33. All the major Tire makers are sending you free slicks in hopes of
endorsement deal.

34. The UPS guy took to taking Steroids so he could keep up with your
shipments.

35. The Fed Ex guy had a nervous breakdown.

36. All the wildlife within a 800ft radius around your house got the HELLOUT.

37. The nearest Geological Seismic Surveying Station Operator knows your
address by heart.

38. A booming voice greets potential passengers with, "That's right ....you
paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the EDGE.

39. The earth slows in rotation when you hook up on your new slicks and head
east.

40. You have to screw your slicks to the wheels.

41. Your exhaust pipes are larger in diameter than your driveline.

42. Your fuel pump flows enough to water a golf course.

43. Your compression's high enough you could run diesel fuel.

44. The sparks from your wheelie bars start grass fires on the side of the
road.

45. Your engine idles at 2800 rpm.

46. You measure the fuel you use in "gallons per mile."


From niteseeker at mac.com  Sun Jul  5 17:14:11 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 18:14:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
References: <5258A8EE-E3F8-48C9-9F59-5C167A43E25A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <62862647-53E6-4EF8-8894-5659BD9F106C@mac.com>

Begin forwarded message:

> From: dick ross <niteseeker at aol.com>
> Date: July 5, 2009 5:39:27 PM CDT
> To: triumph club club <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
>
> Now I know what I was missing having the AOL address and not getting  
> a Triumph fix every so often.   I thought everyone was too busy to  
> write anything.  New mail address fixed it all.


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Jul  5 19:39:09 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 21:39:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions
References: <20090705041916.MGHD26776.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>
Message-ID: <002201c9fdda$8ff9cb20$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  G'day mate from Erie, PA.
  I bought new trunnions last year from  the Roadster Factory and they
seemed very good quality parts.

  No financial interest.

  Good luck, Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions


  > I am having all sorts of quality problems with "new" trunnions. The ones
  > the local importers have, are just crap. The core plug at the bottom
falls
  > out, they wont hold grease/oil due to design problems, the caster angle
is
  > machined wrong, and some I screwed onto brand new vertical links, are a
  > sloppier fit than my 20 year old worn-out ones.
  > Is this how they now are???. Does anyone know of a reputable source
  > Thanks   Terry O'Beirne, Australia
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Jul  5 20:33:49 2009
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 19:33:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Request for help
Message-ID: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Group: I hope everyone had a good and safe July fourth and that everyone still
has all their fingers (seriously).
I received the following email from Andy Granatelli over the holiday. I know
it is a shot in the dark, but perhaps with all the experience and worldliness
in the group, someone may be able to help him. If you know of the location of
any of his "stuff" feel free to email he or I. Please, do not just email him
for fun..he is a man who really treasures his privacy.
Thanks in advance - Ed  
 
 
Ed:
 
I am looking for the following items for my Hall of Fame Museum, which will
open late this year in Auburn, Indiana. I need information on anything speed
equipment or cars built by Grancor Automotive Specialists (Granatelli
Corporation) like Ford Flathead motors, heads, manifolds, etc. Also, looking
for any racecars I owned or built, including Indy cars, street rods,
Bonneville cars or a Fordillac. I would like to have any information on the
whereabouts of any of the above. I will consider a loan, a donation or I will
purchase the items. No matter what, I would like to know what's out there.

Contact Andy at mrindy500 at yahoo. com. Thank you. Andy Granatelli


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul  5 23:17:59 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 07:17:59 +0200
Subject: [Fot] CSCC Race At Spa
In-Reply-To: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAIX9IOLDBzpMpr6Rlx1YK7wBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Maybe you might be interested in watching a race at Spa made last weekend.

http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5355089330593825922

Cheers
Chris


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul  6 06:09:00 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:09:00 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video practice Spa: Porsches for breakfast
In-Reply-To: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAH5P7xu6lXFAiEgEOt9ctT8BAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5355313714895278418

Cheers
Chris


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul  6 07:53:07 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 09:53:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>
References: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
	<1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907060945040.16206@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 3 Jul 2009, RACER BUD wrote:

> if i recall correctly, the headlight removal is the way to go

I've not read this whole thread, but there's no way to get to the bonnet 
release on TR6 through the headlight bucket.

_IF_ you can get the starter out of the way, you can reach up to the latch 
with a screwdriver or pry bar. The side of the latch assy. that faces away 
from the driver has a little tab that you flick to release the latch.

Going in from the front is tougher as you have to sacrifice "something" to 
get there. Just removing the hinges is not going to gain you much as 
you'll probably bend the bonnet near the rear edge if you relase the 
hinges and then pry up.

That said, if you can get access from the front, getting a hook around the 
previously mention tab will do the trick. pull the tab toward the front of 
the car.

There are a LOT of TR6 web sites with the famous remote bonnet releast 
diagrammed. Use that to see what I'm describing.

regards,
rml

p.s. BTDT with the failed cable thingie. Just before tech at an autocross. 
By complete serendipity, got it open, but that was partially due to fact 
that I had started to install the remote release thingie. Boy, was I 
lucky! I was one cable pull away from going through what Bobby W. is going 
though. Whew!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 15:11:33 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
Message-ID: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>

Check this out Gang.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: RACER BUD
To: RACER BUD
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:06 PM



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKqpvriKZuA


From greenman62 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 16:02:52 2009
From: greenman62 at hotmail.com (greenman62 at hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:02:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
In-Reply-To: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>
References: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>
Message-ID: <SNT111-W49898B326DA0D300A7AEB2D22B0@phx.gbl>

THAT'S hysterical!

Greg Petrolati   Lafayette, Oregon



That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory...







> From: budscars at comcast.net
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
> Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
>
> Check this out Gang.
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RACER BUD
> To: RACER BUD
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:06 PM
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKqpvriKZuA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From andre at gt6.ca  Mon Jul  6 20:25:14 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: 1968 Triumph GT6
References: <1966333622-1246933348-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2047016800-@bxe1200.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <E2591BEF-2F20-4257-88B5-F9894A7480EA@gt6.ca>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Triumph-GT6-cool-resto-project-19-pics_W0
QQitemZ190318409860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2c4fdc7884&_trk
sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1#ht_10231wt_928

Can anyone help Rodney and look over the MK1.

Looks solid, but no under side shots.

Thanks.

A.


Begin forwarded message:

> From: "RW - Movie Car Mania" <rw at moviecarmania.com>
> Date: July 6, 2009 10:22:28 PM GMT-04:00
> To: "Andre Rousseau" <andre at gt6.ca>
> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
> Reply-To: rw at moviecarmania.com
>
> Wow that would be great. Thanks again.
> RW - www.MovieCarMania.com
>
>
> From: Andre Rousseau
> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:14:52 -0400
> To: <rw at moviecarmania.com>
> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
>
> I could enquire among my TR friends.
>
> A.
>
> On 6-Jul-09, at 10:05 PM, RW - Movie Car Mania wrote:
>
>> Thanks for your help will let you know if I am able to get it. One
>> major consideration is that the car is 2000 miles away so I can't
>> look at it in person.
>> Rodney
>> RW - www.MovieCarMania.com
>>
>>
>> From: Andre Rousseau
>> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:54:07 -0400
>> To: RW<RW at moviecarmania.com>
>> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
>>
>> Ok from the photos looks solid.
>>
>> I'd want too see the floors and sills.
>>
>> Its a later MK1 which is nice.
>> Engine bay looks complete, but is a mess.
>> Seats look custom. Red with black.
>> Has an Overdrive.
>> All the glass.
>> Battery box looks good, almost no rust.
>>
>> ITS IS NOT A MK1 ENGINE. That's not a show stopper and have some
>> good points, but not original.
>>
>> I'd buy it mate.
>>
>>
>> A.
>>
>> On 6-Jul-09, at 9:34 PM, RW wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Andre,
>>> I came across your site through the Vintage Triumph Registry.  I
>>> like what youve done to your 1968 GT6. I am looking at a few
>>> British cars so that I can get a project car to restore.  I am
>>> looking at Triumph GT6s. I would love your feedback on the
>>> attached car.  From the photos and description, what do you think
>>> of this car as a project? What are some of the questions I should
>>> ask?  Thanks for your time and help.
>>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Triumph-GT6-cool-resto-project-19-pics_W0
QQitemZ190318409860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2c4fdc7884&_trk
sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7
>>> |39%3A1
>>>
>>> Rodney Wren  www.MovieCarMania.com
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
>> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
>> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
>> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>

--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 22:09:17 2009
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:09:17 -0700
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
Message-ID: <000001c9feb8$b2d06850$187138f0$@racer@comcast.net>

Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk

 

Gary


From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 22:21:26 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:21:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
References: <000001c9feb8$b2d06850$187138f0$@racer@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A87BC5B4C2F4539AB92DC16840E303C@Bud>

TERRIFIC!....GLADIATOR STUFF!
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Horstkorta" <vintage.racer at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 9:09 PM
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans


> Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk
> 
> 
> 
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From andre at gt6.ca  Tue Jul  7 06:02:39 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 08:02:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
In-Reply-To: <-2464984407369905180@unknownmsgid>
References: <-2464984407369905180@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907070502h159a6d11h6b816da59e88b965@mail.gmail.com>

Nasty.

A.

-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


2009/7/7 Gary Horstkorta <vintage.racer at comcast.net>:
> Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk
>
>
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  7 09:07:45 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:07:45 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Wheel Spacers-Available
Message-ID: <ce1.4f345d97.3784bec1@cs.com>

List,

For those of you who asked or are in need....We ran 100 aluminum wheel 
spacers for the TR bolt circle.  .250 thickness.

Specific to Triumph for:

Wider track
Caliper to wheel clearance
Wire wheel conversion

Contact me for FOT pricing.

Thanks...Joe Alexander


From BillB at bnj.com  Tue Jul  7 13:55:25 2009
From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:55:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Shirt Orders
In-Reply-To: <91560.98894.qm@web57612.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <91560.98894.qm@web57612.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9A41C8BD-9F45-4E08-B73C-D9BFF871A44D@bnj.com>

Ernie,
You might consider setting up a paypal account. It's easy to do, and  
anyone that has a credit card can make a payment to you without  
hassle. Just add the fee into the purchase price and it all comes out  
cleanly. You can pay the shirt company directly from the same account.

On Jul 7, 2009, at 11:14 AM, Ernest Husmann wrote:

> Joe:
>
> I beleive in the past there were arrangements for people to make  
> payment at the time they ordered their shirts/t-shirts/hats; such as  
> taking credit card payments.  I could possibly handle checks but I  
> guess most people will want to use credit cards.  I figure I would  
> add a dollar or two to cover the credit card companies take with  
> left over funds going to the FOT treasury.
>
> Also, in the past people had the option of having their orders  
> shipped to them or picking the items up at the event.  I could  
> handle the shipping part but as I won't be at PIR I'll have to find  
> a volunteer.  If Bill is agreeable I could have items for event  
> pickup shipped to him and I could get Irv Korey and one other kind  
> soul to volunteer for distribution at the track.
>
> Bottom line I suspect everything should be paid for at the time of  
> order.  I don't like chasing people for money; aggrevates me very  
> quickly.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> If this project works out well I might just volunteer to do the  
> shirt design for 2010 as well.
>
>
> --- On Tue, 7/7/09, N197TR4 at cs.com <N197TR4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> Subject: Re: Shirt Orders
> To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com, BillB at bnj.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 11:17 AM
>
> Ernie,
>
> Thanks for doing this....this is usually far more time consuming  
> that people often realize.  I have no suggestions on 'payments.
>
> Do you mean initial outlay of cash for the shirts?
>
> I have some FOT money in the till, but would not want to collect  
> money for the shirts.
>
> Joe
>
>
>> Gentlemen:
>>
>> A few minor changes are being made to the Kastner Cup shirt  
>> design.  I hope by the end of the week to have the designs out for  
>> quotes and shortly thereafter begin taking orders.
>>
>> While I can keep track of who ordered what, I am unable to handle  
>> payment arrangements.  Any suggestions?


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Wed Jul  8 07:05:51 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 09:05:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
Message-ID: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>

Hi Mark

Looks like Mike was missed when adding people to the list. He was nominated
and seconded a while ago.

Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Deweerd [mailto:deweerdm at rogers.com] 
Sent: July 8, 2009 6:37 AM
To: Paul MacDonald
Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk race last weekend (video link too)

Thanks for the footage Paul
I'm still waiting for an invite to FOT.....ok maybe I'm being a little 
impatient,  but I'm eager to learn about how to get my car running better 
and of coarse faster.
I've just purchased a mgb dist. cap and new 8mm wires for the car and was 
wondering if the rotor has to be changed to or if the tr4 rotor is the same 
..mine is new.
also wondering what tire size of Hoosier speedster tires are guys running 
....I'd like to purchase a set for next season.
Thanks
Mike


From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed Jul  8 14:02:35 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:02:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Just a trial balloon...
Message-ID: <4A54FB5B.40404@dfn.com>

... for the moment.

I'm reaching the point where I have to decide about surviving into 
retirement or keeping up with a hobby I can't afford.  I never made much 
money when I was working, and was laid off, more or less permanently, at 
the age of 56.  The company for which I last worked failed, started, 
failed again, started again, then failed yet again and is still in 
bankruptcy.  That work was the only reason why I stayed where I am, and 
I've been able to work a little over three months for them in the last 
nearly six years.  I have a very small house which I can't sell, and I 
have no space left in which to do any real work toward getting cars 
done, and have lots of stuff eating up money sitting in storage.  I'm 
pretty much going to have to live on abbreviated Social Security and the 
crunch has finally come.

So, I'm thinking about disposing of everything mechanical so I can find 
a place to retire in which I'd be more comfortable, but, obviously, I 
can't do that unless I can dispose of most everything that's an anchor 
keeping me here.

So, I'm putting up everything for sale, with the proviso that I've got 
to get guarantees from buyers for virtually everything for sale before I 
commit to selling.  Doesn't make sense to be tied to this location 
because some percentage of the total can't be unloaded at a reasonable 
price.   Many items were put in storage because of the local code 
nazis.  I'll provide plenty of detail and asking prices upon request.  
Here's the abbreviated inventory list:

Triiumphs, in no particular order.

1971 GT6
1980 TR7
1966? TR4A IRS
1964 TR4
1970 GT6

Miscellany:

1986 Nissan 300ZX
1986 Nissan 300ZX (no, that's not a stutter on the enter key).
1970-or so Bridgeport vertical milling machine, 42" table, 3-phase, 5 hp 
drive, ways are not perfect, but serviceable.
Enco 9x27 lathe--good for small items and about twenty years old, with 
only occasional use.
P&H 3-phase 400A Tig/Stick welder.  A fuckin' brute.  800 lbs of iron 
and copper, with a set of casters installed by a pretend engineer.  
Somewhat of an effort to move around. Virtually antique spark-gap 
high-voltage generator for Tig work, but, hey, it does the job. Just 
needs water plumbing, foot pedal, a torch and a flowmeter/gas supply. 
Downside--can't do aluminum welding very well--DC only in Tig mode and 
no HV AC.  Very, very good for carbon and stainless steel, though.  I 
built _large_ experimental machines for the coal processing industry 
with this welder.

A real challenge--1968 VW camper, with a 1756cc Lancia twincam which I 
installed, oh, about 25 years ago.  After ten years of hard use, I put 
full synthetic oil in it and the old, tired engine almost immediately 
shit the bed because of not enough oil pressure as the oil too easily 
ran out of the worn mains.  Complete, right down to a worn red-leather 
driver's seat from the Lancia and a side-mounted radiator and 40DCOEs on 
a homemade manifold.  Upgraded to `72 front disc brakes, `72 rear hubs 
and 14" stud-mounted rims.  Body, despite being refurbished in `87, 
shows the effects of years on Michigan and Massachusetts salted roads.

Misc. spare parts--used A-Type TR4 trans/OD, half-assed rusted GT6 trans 
w/OD shaft, and a disassembled OD with freshly-lined sliding member, a 
few (I think) good synchros, stuff like that.

Oxy/acetylene tanks (B size), no certification available since I 
purchased them myself three decades ago.  If that's cool with your state 
and local gas supplier, go fer `em. My local suppliers verified 
compliance at the last fill--many years ago.

As one might expect, I can't fit all that into an 11 x 16 garage and get 
anything done.  I expected to work until I was 66 and save the cash for 
a little place in the country with a nice-sized shop, but it was not to be.

Details-as expansive as required--upon request.


Cheers.


















-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed Jul  8 14:16:39 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:16:39 -0600
Subject: [Fot] This got kicked for too many bytes for some lists, so...
Message-ID: <4A54FEA7.4020508@dfn.com>

... a repeat with abbreviations, and apologies if it's a duplication:
This is a trial balloon... for the moment.

I'm reaching the point where I have to decide about surviving into 
retirement or keeping up with a hobby I can't afford.  I never made much 
money when I was working, and was laid off, more or less permanently, at 
the age of 56.  I tried to buy decent cars cheap with the expectation of 
having time and money to make them better later.  The company for which 
I last worked failed and is still in bankruptcy.  That work was the only 
reason why I stayed where I am, and I've worked for them three months in 
the last nearly six years.  I have a very small house which I can't 
sell, and I have no space in which to do any work toward getting cars 
done, and have stuff eating up money sitting in storage.  I'm going to 
have to live on abbreviated Social Security and the crunch has finally 
come.

So, I'm thinking about disposing of everything mechanical so I can find 
a place to retire I'd like better, but, obviously, I can't do that 
unless I can dispose of  everything that's an anchor.

So, I'm putting up everything for sale, with the proviso that I've got 
to get guarantees from buyers for virtually everything for sale before I 
commit to selling.  Doesn't make sense to take a big loss and still be 
tied to this location because some percentage of the total can't be 
unloaded at a reasonable price.  I'll provide plenty of detail and 
asking prices upon request.  Here's the abbreviated inventory list:
Triiumphs, in no particular order.
1971 GT6
1980 TR7
1966? TR4A IRS
1964 TR4
1970 GT6
Miscellany:
1986 Nissan 300ZX
1986 Nissan 300ZX (no, that's not a stutter on the enter key).
1970-or so Bridgeport vertical milling machine, 42" table, 3-phase, 5 hp 
drive, ways are not perfect, but serviceable.
Enco 9x27 lathe--good for small items and about twenty years old, with 
only occasional use.
P&H 3-phase 400A Tig/Stick welder.  A fuckin' brute.  800 lbs of iron 
and copper, with a set of casters installed by a pretend engineer.  
Somewhat of an effort to move around. Antique spark-gap high-voltage 
generator for Tig work, but, hey, it does the job. Needs water plumbing, 
foot pedal, a torch and a flowmeter/gas supply. Downside--can't do 
aluminum welding very well--DC only in Tig mode and no HV AC.  Very good 
for carbon and stainless steel, though.  I built _large_ experimental 
machines for the coal processing industry with this welder.

A real challenge--1968 VW camper, with a 1756cc Lancia twincam 
installed, oh, about 25 years ago.  After ten years of hard use, I put 
full synthetic oil in it and the old, tired engine almost immediately 
shit the bed because of not enough oil pressure as the oil too easily 
ran out of the worn mains.  Complete, right down to a worn red-leather 
driver's seat, a side-mounted radiator and 40DCOEs on a homemade 
manifold.  Upgraded to `72 front disc brakes, `72 rear hubs and 14" 
stud-mounted rims.  Body, despite being refurbished in `87, shows the 
effects of years on Michigan and Massachusetts salted roads.

Misc. spare parts--used A-Type TR4 trans/OD, half-assed rusted GT6 trans 
w/OD shaft, and a disassembled OD with freshly-lined sliding member, a 
few (I think) good synchros, stuff like that.

Oxy/acetylene tanks (B size), no certification available since I 
purchased them three decades ago.  If that's cool with your state and 
local gas supplier, go fer `em. My local suppliers verified compliance 
at the last fill--many years ago.

As one might expect, I can't fit all that into an 11 x 16 garage and get 
anything done.  I expected to work until I was 66 and save the cash for 
a little place in the country with a nice-sized shop, but it was not to 
be.  Details-as expansive as required--upon request.

Cheers.















-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Wed Jul  8 18:04:35 2009
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 19:04:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>

Yes, someone please enl9ighten me how a new member actually gets added.

I've nominated a couple, they've been seconded, all well and good. But by 
what process do they actually begin receiving FOT traffic and become enabled 
to participate?

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul MacDonald" <macdonaldp at rogers.com>
To: "Fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <deweerdm at rogers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 8:05 AM
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list


> Hi Mark
>
> Looks like Mike was missed when adding people to the list. He was 
> nominated
> and seconded a while ago.
>
> Thanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Deweerd [mailto:deweerdm at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 8, 2009 6:37 AM
> To: Paul MacDonald
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk race last weekend (video link too)
>
> Thanks for the footage Paul
> I'm still waiting for an invite to FOT.....ok maybe I'm being a little
> impatient,  but I'm eager to learn about how to get my car running better
> and of coarse faster.
> I've just purchased a mgb dist. cap and new 8mm wires for the car and was
> wondering if the rotor has to be changed to or if the tr4 rotor is the 
> same
> ..mine is new.
> also wondering what tire size of Hoosier speedster tires are guys running
> ....I'd like to purchase a set for next season.
> Thanks
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 18:37:46 2009
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 20:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
In-Reply-To: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
	<7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
Message-ID: <011901ca002d$7b834810$7289d830$@com>

Go to the link at the end of each FOT email and enter the new person so that
all Mark needs to do is ok the membership. You can choose password, digest,
etc. in advance. Otherwise Mark must enter all the data and that is a bit of
work.
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
Clark


From stlnyc at msn.com  Wed Jul  8 21:03:54 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:03:54 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing
Message-ID: <BAY104-W49980A75398EC541062EFEDA260@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Does anyone have a spec sheet or the ratios for the early close ratio gear
sets for a TR4-6 gearbox?  This would be the set with the 1", 10 spline input
shaft.  Thanks in advance.



Fred Hodgson


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 21:09:21 2009
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:09:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing
References: <BAY104-W49980A75398EC541062EFEDA260@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1507785973B64E2CA89AFAA5E7537BD1@bob44f854f0e85>

Check out:

http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6drivetrain.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred & Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc at msn.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 10:03 PM
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing


> Amici-
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a spec sheet or the ratios for the early close ratio gear
> sets for a TR4-6 gearbox?  This would be the set with the 1", 10 spline 
> input
> shaft.  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Fred Hodgson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 23:29:32 2009
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:29:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>

How should one put oil in  the rear stock lever shock on a TR6?  How
much? [too much makes the shock not work it seems].
Anybody use 75-90 weight Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in them?

-- 
Chuck Arnold


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  9 01:14:22 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 01:14:22 -0600
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
In-Reply-To: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
	<7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
Message-ID: <4A5598CE.8000404@bradakis.com>

A couple of things to keep in mind:

I do this in my spare time, as I get around to it.  Sure, if all of the 
Team.Net
subscribers to all the various lists would ante up 5 or 10 bucks a year for
each of their subscriptions, or if everyone would click on one or two of the
Google ads on the archive pages, etc. every day, I'd have enough income to
make Team.Net a full time job.  Such is not the case, sad to say.

To add an email address to the list of FOT email addresses, I need the
email address to add.  This is so blatently obvious, you'd think it would
be blatently obvious.

mjb.


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Jul  9 07:37:59 2009
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 06:37:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>

Chuck, I believe that the shocks have to be full to work properly.  You may 
be using to thick of an oil and the shock may not be moving at all.
Tony Garmey has a shock dyno and can help you to make adjustments on it, 
mostly with oil viscosity.
I tried a heavy duty shock valve from Moss and the valve did worse 
performance than the stock valve.
Some have done their own modifications to the valve with great success. 
There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World 
Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>; "Triumph" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 10:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?


> How should one put oil in  the rear stock lever shock on a TR6?  How
> much? [too much makes the shock not work it seems].
> Anybody use 75-90 weight Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in them?
>
> -- 
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From emanteno at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 07:56:55 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:56:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
Message-ID: <354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Charly Mitchel
<charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:

> There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World
> Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.



Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts of Madison (WI) has his own lever
shock rebuilding operation. He also has designed and produced externally
adjustable levers for TR's. I'm sure Peter would be happy to answer your
shock filling and other performance questions. In fact, he says so on his
website:

http://www.nosimport.com/

NFI

Irv Korey


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 12:02:27 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 11:02:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Granatelli request
Message-ID: <151646.10282.qm@web57616.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Recently someone posted a message that Andy Granatelli was searching for
pieces to place in his museum.  I work with someone who goes way back in
dirt track/sprint car racing who may know some people who would have items of
possible interest.
 
Could whoever sent that message please forward the message to me again so that
I might pass it along.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie


From niteseeker at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 21:46:27 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] iola
References: <D29F2A77-DC7D-4D5F-8908-830EF12FDF91@aol.com>
Message-ID: <299AC3C8-96E3-49FA-9A86-BE41E41BA86A@mac.com>

> Will there be anyone from the list at Iola this weekend?
> Browsers or sellers.
> thanks
> Dick


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu Jul  9 20:58:32 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 20:58:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] close ratio gears
Message-ID: <BAY104-W23BDB631DC019FA849E297DA270@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Thanks to all who responded.



Fred Hodgson


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul  9 21:36:28 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:36:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com
  >
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
	<354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>

Uncle jack had a set of the adjustable shocks on his car.  I believe 
that he worked with Peter to get the location of the adjustment valve 
where it wouldn't interfere with the normal mounting.  Very cool.

- Tony

At 08:56 AM 7/9/2009, Irv Korey wrote:
>On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Charly Mitchel
><charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:
>
> > There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World
> > Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.
>
>
>
>Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts of Madison (WI) has his own lever
>shock rebuilding operation. He also has designed and produced externally
>adjustable levers for TR's. I'm sure Peter would be happy to answer your
>shock filling and other performance questions. In fact, he says so on his
>website:
>
>http://www.nosimport.com/
>
>NFI
>
>Irv Korey


From niteseeker at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 21:24:38 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:24:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] iola
References: <D29F2A77-DC7D-4D5F-8908-830EF12FDF91@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EBEEC2D0-7510-48DD-909B-D66ACA03E4BD@mac.com>

> Will there be anyone from the list at Iola this weekend?
> Browsers or sellers.
> thanks
> Dick


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 10 10:04:23 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:04:23 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <be1.5eb6ee3a.3788c087@cs.com>

List:

I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have no 
personal history with this car)

It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.

The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position bolt 
circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)

....anyone familiar with this?

We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)

Joe Alexander


From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 10 10:16:51 2009
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (CHIP COLLINGWOOD)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:16:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <380-220097510161651382@earthlink.net>

Joe,

Sounds like a jaguar setup. That is the current setup allowed on the TR6
for SCCA and what Fletcher adapted to my car before I ran it. Good but a
bit heavy and now outdated.

Chip Collingwood
TR6
510



> [Original Message]
> From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Date: 7/10/2009 12:05:18 PM
> Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
>
> List:
>
> I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have
no 
> personal history with this car)
>
> It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.
>
> The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position
bolt 
> circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)
>
> ....anyone familiar with this?
>
> We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)
>
> Joe Alexander
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 11:52:35 2009
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:52:35 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <d28.4b3cc729.3788d9e3@aol.com>

In a message dated 07/10/2009 12:34:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
N197TR4 at cs.com writes:


> We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)
> 

Sure sounds like they'd work, but you did say, "Vintage", right?

Must be a very rare TR3.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)


From Herald948 at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 13:37:50 2009
From: Herald948 at aol.com (Herald948 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:37:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <bc9.5009c3b5.3788f28e@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/10/2009 1:34:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
N197TR4 at cs.com writes:

It is a  THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper  bracket.
Joe, front caliper from a Volvo 122 sticks in my mind. I vaguely remember  
working on my neighbor's 122 many, many years ago and being struck by the  
peculiarity of such a caliper; I was used to a typical Triumph caliper with 
two  pistons or a typical Volvo 144 front caliper with four pistons (all 
Girling)!  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Fri Jul 10 16:27:44 2009
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 22:27:44 GMT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <20090710.182744.14958.0@webmail01.dca.untd.com>

Sounds like the Jaguar calipers that I have on my car.  The Jag rotors are
vented and were originally 5 bolt.  The calipers have 3.5 inch mounting ears
thus bolt on to TR3-6s.  In SCCA the jag calipers are the way to go up front,
until they allow aftermarket ones.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:04:23 EDT

List:

I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have no
personal history with this car)

It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.

The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position bolt
circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)

....anyone familiar with this?

We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)

Joe Alexander
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
____________________________________________________________
Get your dream car or truck. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxXBkAOCb70MmL10IxWCqa9QA
e0KBkexAARZTJJG3Hm15C5d2FBox6/


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Sat Jul 11 06:08:49 2009
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 06:08:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] My old Triumph
Message-ID: <BLU116-W26C0C9137E99667CFA510790240@phx.gbl>

There is a familiar face on page 43 of this month's Victory Lane.  My old TR3
driven by Jeff Schur at Lime Rock.



Cheers Henry Morrison, Albuquerque


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Jul 11 09:42:03 2009
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 10:42:03 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
References: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>

I had to smile when I read this and remembered my dad telling me "just 
run STP in the rear shocks". This is how I learned how to drive the car 
over the 40 some years I have been driving it. I still run it that way 
frankly with the STP he put in the shocks "just because" although the 
valves have probably compensated over the years and miles. I have new 
shocks in my stash but never felt the need to change anything - I know 
the car so well as it is and I like the balance. I will tell you that 
its getting tough crossing railroad tracks at speed in my old age...

I am quite sure that there are more enlightened thought process since 
the late '50s and early '60s when my dad raced my TR3 so I am not 
suggesting this as a course of action. In fact in my TR6, the first 
thing I did was design and fabricate a bolt-in (stock mount points) 
conversion to Koni's...

Best to all...

M


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 09:24:26 2009
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:24:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <4A5A002A.30203@cfl.rr.com>

All,

Please second the nomination of Steve Clements to the roster. He is a 
TR6 racer in the northeast and runs a business of buying and selling 
new, NLA and obsolete Brit car parts. Good addition to the list if you 
are restoring something.

Bob
1957 TR3 racer in progress


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Sun Jul 12 15:53:34 2009
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:53:34 +1000
Subject: [Fot] mystery calipers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1247335201.15493.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090712215333.GQPA1990.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>

The 3 piston calipers are most likely Rover 3500 P6B

Terry O'Beirne


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 06:59:00 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:59:00 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers +
 WARNING
Message-ID: <bbf.534c6a00.378c8994@cs.com>

Lots of replies. Thanks!

Concensus seems to be that 3 and 4 pot Jaguar Calipers were used 
successfully with Jaguar Vented Rotors on Triumphs.

A frequently conversion on the TR250 and the TR6, but can be retrofitted to 
TR3 & TR4.

The three pot calipers may have been used on other applications such as 
Rover & Volvo...which would be no surprise.

Another question would be if 'race' quality pads are available.....

Thanks, Joe Alexander

PS:  This is not for me, but perhaps something to consider if the 
conversion is simpler and represents additional safety.  

PPS: I put the Toyota conversion on the AMBRO. TOYOTA CALIPERS appear to be 
a proven configuration, but I DISCOVERED THAT IN SOME CASES THE FLEX LINE 
CAN BE POSITIONED SO IT HAS INTERFERENCE  DURING THE FULL RANGE OF MOTION OF 
STEERING AND VERTICAL MOTION. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT THIS COULD BE MISSED 
DURING INSTALLATION.  


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 13 08:23:31 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:23:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>
References: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
	<4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907131023040.29320@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009, Mark Eginton wrote:

> I am quite sure that there are more enlightened thought process since the 
> late '50s and early '60s when my dad raced my TR3 so I am not suggesting this 
> as a course of action. In fact in my TR6, the first thing I did was design 
> and fabricate a bolt-in (stock mount points) conversion to Koni's...

Care to share?

Do you have pix?

> Best to all...
>
> M

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jul 13 11:27:05 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:27:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
Message-ID: <c95.46ba39e1.378cc869@aol.com>

Anyone going to Cal Speedway next weekend?  How many spots do we need  to 
save?
 
Steve
**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 12:02:10 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:02:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
Message-ID: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Greetings FoT

I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some

spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
DOT

slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
the car

so I don't have anything to compare to.

Any input would be appreciated



Jim G

RMVR


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 13 12:56:55 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:56:55 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
Message-ID: <6049500.1247511415424.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Steve.  I will be there with my white TR3B #144.  Can't wait!

~Steve Belfer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>Sent: Jul 13, 2009 10:27 AM
>To: FOT at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
>
>Anyone going to Cal Speedway next weekend?  How many spots do we need  to 
>save?
> 
>Steve
>**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
>(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 13 12:58:02 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:58:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
Message-ID: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I run Yokohama Advan A048R 205/60/15  7 weekends and still sticky.

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
>Sent: Jul 13, 2009 11:02 AM
>To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
>
>Greetings FoT
>
>I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some
>
>spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
>DOT
>
>slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
>the car
>
>so I don't have anything to compare to.
>
>Any input would be appreciated
>
>
>
>Jim G
>
>RMVR
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:29:40 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:29:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0E16415B-670E-4F69-A0F0-793AE410F282@bnj.com>

Slicks will always be faster if your car is set up properly for them.  
Two seconds is probably about right. Could be more.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 11:02 AM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings FoT
>
> I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires  
> butB some
>
> spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap  
> to the
> DOT
>
> slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've  
> had on
> the car
>
> so I don't have anything to compare to.
>
> Any input would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Jim G
>
> RMVR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 16:34:58 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>

The fastest R-DOT's in a 205/50/15 size are the Hoosier R6's and Goodyear
Eagle RS-TL's. The V710's are just a tick behind those two.

As far as speed differential is concerned, the Nitto NT-01, Toyo Ra1, R888,
and Kumho V700 are ~ .4 to.5 sec. slower / per minute. Most claim the
Hoosier Street TD is on par with these tires, but if you're fast, don't
expect them to last more than two race weekend.

Tires like the Hoosier Speedster and Yokohama A048's are even slower, but
they both wear like iron.

If you're looking for a great, cheap, decently quick, and long last tiring
go with the Nitto NT01. They're the same compound and design as the RA1's
but they are molded to 6/32 and have larger tread blocks. They only cost
$136 or so.

Hope this helps,

Bob


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:44:43 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:44:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>

What are the Hoosier Street TD's? I assume they are not the same as  
the bias ply Vintage TD's

I've managed to get the Speedsters to work well, but they require  
careful set up. They do not set up like true radials, not sure why.  
Anything past 1.5 degrees of camber and you start losing time-- on my  
car anyway. But they need that 1.5 degrees for sure.  Zero to 1  
degrees of caster like bias plies doesn't work at all either.

They also need careful tire pressure adjustment. There is at least a  
half second per minute in the right pressure--two pounds makes a big  
difference.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 3:34 PM, Bob Adams wrote:

> The fastest R-DOT's in a 205/50/15 size are the Hoosier R6's and  
> Goodyear
> Eagle RS-TL's. The V710's are just a tick behind those two.
>
> As far as speed differential is concerned, the Nitto NT-01, Toyo  
> Ra1, R888,
> and Kumho V700 are ~ .4 to.5 sec. slower / per minute. Most claim the
> Hoosier Street TD is on par with these tires, but if you're fast,  
> don't
> expect them to last more than two race weekend.
>
> Tires like the Hoosier Speedster and Yokohama A048's are even  
> slower, but
> they both wear like iron.
>
> If you're looking for a great, cheap, decently quick, and long last  
> tiring
> go with the Nitto NT01. They're the same compound and design as the  
> RA1's
> but they are molded to 6/32 and have larger tread blocks. They only  
> cost
> $136 or so.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 17:48:19 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:48:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>

The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's, but they
are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that run around the
circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier would make a 205/60/15
Street TD they basically said that they "weren't interested".
The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire they
are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session and have
tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment, keep in mind that
your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the production bodied cars
(SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the
TR3-4's). Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the
Street TD's and
the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the fast radials are
manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14 where the 15" cars are stuck
with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in sidewall !). This isn't an issue for
most, but when you are racing for the podium in 50 car fields it is.

Bob Adams


From igofaster at charter.net  Mon Jul 13 19:16:05 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:16:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>

Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. Poor guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is overcoming for him...
He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can someone email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to re-activate his access to FoT..

All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address or server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the release... any help?

The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca   

Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com

All the best... Bobby Whitehead


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon Jul 13 20:00:21 2009
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 02:00:21 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers
 + WARNING
Message-ID: <20090713.220021.28570.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

Joe, I modified a set of Performance friction race pads.  I had to mill some
material (about 50/1000)off of each end so that they would fit.  I do not have
the part number with me, but can look it up in a few days if you are
interested.  I do recall that they are the 01 compound.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers +
WARNING
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:59:00 EDT

Lots of replies. Thanks!

Concensus seems to be that 3 and 4 pot Jaguar Calipers were used
successfully with Jaguar Vented Rotors on Triumphs.

A frequently conversion on the TR250 and the TR6, but can be retrofitted to
TR3 & TR4.

The three pot calipers may have been used on other applications such as
Rover & Volvo...which would be no surprise.

Another question would be if 'race' quality pads are available.....

Thanks, Joe Alexander

PS:  This is not for me, but perhaps something to consider if the
conversion is simpler and represents additional safety.

PPS: I put the Toyota conversion on the AMBRO. TOYOTA CALIPERS appear to be
a proven configuration, but I DISCOVERED THAT IN SOME CASES THE FLEX LINE
CAN BE POSITIONED SO IT HAS INTERFERENCE  DURING THE FULL RANGE OF MOTION OF
STEERING AND VERTICAL MOTION. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT THIS COULD BE MISSED
DURING INSTALLATION.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
____________________________________________________________
Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxUOPYoKgTlGkxOxqvGpI0LEV
e3dYUgTNSvlF6xU6NAEYyHgZEZR9e/


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 20:41:38 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:41:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
	<673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>

Yeah, then I've seen the Street TDs and thought they looked pretty  
good, Tony Garmey had a set on the Corvette last weekend that I was  
lusting after. Too bad they don't make a 15.

I'm sure the weight makes a big difference with the Speedsters. I've  
never seen such a sensitive tire, even the slicks on my Radical were  
more forgiving. At roughly 18 pounds cold / 20 hot  on Peyote they  
give very even temps across the face but are .5 to 1 second slow. At  
19/21 they pick up the second and are a little hotter on the inside  
edge and middle, at 20/23 they lose a second and are hot in the middle.

Once they heat cycle out they become completely stable and will last  
forever on Peyote but they are two to three seconds slow. When I  
decide I need those three seconds they cost me $800 bucks.


Incidentally, temperatures and pressures at the end of a session are  
all but worthless unless you're getting the reading at the pit wall.  
And you need to pick your track to get the best results. PIR for  
example, has a long back straight, then two relatively short turns  
that put almost no heat into the tire. So readings at PIR are  
worthless for camber because the outside edge gets too much cooling.  
Pacific Raceway has a right,left, right combination followed by a  
short climbing straight, a left and then a carousel called Big Indy-- 
good for camber checks. Even better is a skid pad.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 4:48 PM, Bob Adams wrote:

> The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's,  
> but they are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that  
> run around the circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier  
> would make a 205/60/15 Street TD they basically said that they  
> "weren't interested".
>
> The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire  
> they are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session  
> and have tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment,  
> keep in mind that your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the  
> production bodied cars (SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the TR3-4's).  
> Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the Street  
> TD's and the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the  
> fast radials are manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14  
> where the 15" cars are stuck with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in  
> sidewall !). This isn't an issue for most, but when you are racing  
> for the podium in 50 car fields it is.
>
> Bob Adams


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 20:58:30 2009
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BE78EE919DD145FA929EA34BB0C58A0B@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

This is my experience on a Spitfire.

I started out running Yokohama A032's and really liked them.  They were the
hard compound and lasted forever.  However they are now obsolete and I had
to look for other tires.  I also have a set of RA-1's at full tread depth
that I use as "intermediate" rain tires.  Once last year I put them on
anticipating rain that didn't materialize.  My time was off at least 1-2
seconds on a 100 (give or take) second lap from the Yok's.  However, I do
like how the RA-1's work on a damp track.

This year, I had to retire the Yok's.  I went with Hoosier R-6's.  It took a
while to work out the tire pressures, but I can safely say that the Hoosiers
are significantly faster than either the Yokohama tires or the Toyos.  Not
sure how long they will last, but I've got 2 full weekends on them so far.
I think at least 4 weekends for sure, and maybe more.

All this being said, realize that this is on a Spitfire that runs a lot of
negative camber.  The car loves radial tires and vice-versa.

Jim Norlin

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 11:02 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll


Greetings FoT

I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some

spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
DOT

slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
the car

so I don't have anything to compare to.

Any input would be appreciated



Jim G

RMVR
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 20:59:12 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:59:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
	<673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
	<F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <85EB8F09-F9FA-4D2F-A965-DCB27B41EAED@bnj.com>

I got Tony Garmey to help me with tire temps this weekend, We did two  
runs with a new set of speedsters, starting with 27 pounds hot and  
going down, just in case I've been missing something at higher  
pressure. Didn't have time for a real test and tune kind of effort  
(and I was begging Tony's time so I didn't feel I could keep him from  
the real customers) but it confirmed the tire pressures I've been using.

Had overheating problems all weekend. I didn't think it was a head  
gasket because the leakdown didn't show it, but it was. A skinny  
little leak that probably only happened at heavy load. I also had a  
tie rod end come loose and give me about an inch and a half of toe  
out, so I was plowing asphalt. Temps stayed lower longer without the  
extra load, enough for me to charge up from the back and get second,  
though I had to nurse it for the last two laps.

Fun weekend.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 7:41 PM, Bill Babcock wrote:

> Yeah, then I've seen the Street TDs and thought they looked pretty
> good, Tony Garmey had a set on the Corvette last weekend that I was
> lusting after. Too bad they don't make a 15.
>
> I'm sure the weight makes a big difference with the Speedsters. I've
> never seen such a sensitive tire, even the slicks on my Radical were
> more forgiving. At roughly 18 pounds cold / 20 hot  on Peyote they
> give very even temps across the face but are .5 to 1 second slow. At
> 19/21 they pick up the second and are a little hotter on the inside
> edge and middle, at 20/23 they lose a second and are hot in the  
> middle.
>
> Once they heat cycle out they become completely stable and will last
> forever on Peyote but they are two to three seconds slow. When I
> decide I need those three seconds they cost me $800 bucks.
>
>
> Incidentally, temperatures and pressures at the end of a session are
> all but worthless unless you're getting the reading at the pit wall.
> And you need to pick your track to get the best results. PIR for
> example, has a long back straight, then two relatively short turns
> that put almost no heat into the tire. So readings at PIR are
> worthless for camber because the outside edge gets too much cooling.
> Pacific Raceway has a right,left, right combination followed by a
> short climbing straight, a left and then a carousel called Big Indy--
> good for camber checks. Even better is a skid pad.
>
>
> On Jul 13, 2009, at 4:48 PM, Bob Adams wrote:
>
>> The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's,
>> but they are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that
>> run around the circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier
>> would make a 205/60/15 Street TD they basically said that they
>> "weren't interested".
>>
>> The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire
>> they are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session
>> and have tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment,
>> keep in mind that your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the
>> production bodied cars (SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the TR3-4's).
>> Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the Street
>> TD's and the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the
>> fast radials are manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14
>> where the 15" cars are stuck with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in
>> sidewall !). This isn't an issue for most, but when you are racing
>> for the podium in 50 car fields it is.
>>
>> Bob Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Tue Jul 14 07:02:45 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:02:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Bobby,

I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this links to
Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 bucks.

http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm

Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in September.
It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake and
Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a chance
that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be double
parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bobby Whitehead
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua

Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. Poor
guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
overcoming for him...
He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can someone
email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
re-activate his access to FoT..

All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address or
server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
release... any help?

The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca

Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com

All the best... Bobby Whitehead
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 14 07:37:15 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:37:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <20090714133738.0E09F18765B@autox.team.net>

Since Gary has an AOL address, it's most likely AOL which has 
"dropped him" from the list.  There have been a few messages from the 
big triumph list where AOL members started getting messages again, so 
MAYBE it's better now.  If not, I suggest he get an alternate account 
say a google mail account.  He can set up a rule where messages to 
the gmail account are forwarded to AOL, or can just check the gmail 
account separately.

I saw him at Blackhawk, and the Shingles really laid him low.

- Tony

At 08:16 PM 7/13/2009, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the 
>shingles. Poor guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race 
>car but the pain is overcoming for him...
>He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
>someone email him , first with get well wishes and second with 
>instructions to re-activate his access to FoT..
>
>All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release 
>question... I found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but 
>his email address or server rejected my request... I'm not closing 
>the hood until I get the release... any help?
>
>The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>
>Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>
>All the best... Bobby Whitehead
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Jul 14 08:34:56 2009
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:34:56 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net><20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <C6806C06F87F4912B29F50580F9DF5CE@KasPC>

The medics now have a shot you can get to prevent Shingles.  If you have 
ever had Chicken Pox, go and get it.  It costs about $85 but anything is 
better than Shingles. It will also help those that have Shingles I 
understand.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua


> Bobby,
>
> I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this 
> links to
> Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 
> bucks.
>
> http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>
> Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in 
> September.
> It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake 
> and
> Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
> Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a chance
> that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be 
> double
> parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?
>
> Bob Kramer
> Sales Manager
> RDO Equipment Company
> 16415 N. IH 35
> Pflugerville, TX 78660
> 512-272-4141
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Bobby Whitehead
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>
> Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. 
> Poor
> guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
> overcoming for him...
> He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
> someone
> email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
> re-activate his access to FoT..
>
> All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
> found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address 
> or
> server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
> release... any help?
>
> The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>
> Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>
> All the best... Bobby Whitehead
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 10:43:23 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net><20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13><CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<C6806C06F87F4912B29F50580F9DF5CE@KasPC>
Message-ID: <EC71E96C5F1D4EDAA3AADB265619FE87@Bud>

My local Safeway store's pharmacy gives Shingles shots
Racer bud..sonoma, ca.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua


> The medics now have a shot you can get to prevent Shingles.  If you have 
> ever had Chicken Pox, go and get it.  It costs about $85 but anything is 
> better than Shingles. It will also help those that have Shingles I 
> understand.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
> To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 6:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>
>
>> Bobby,
>>
>> I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this 
>> links to
>> Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 
>> bucks.
>>
>> http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>>
>> Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in 
>> September.
>> It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake 
>> and
>> Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
>> Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a 
>> chance
>> that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be 
>> double
>> parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>> Sales Manager
>> RDO Equipment Company
>> 16415 N. IH 35
>> Pflugerville, TX 78660
>> 512-272-4141
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>> Behalf
>> Of Bobby Whitehead
>> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>>
>> Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. 
>> Poor
>> guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
>> overcoming for him...
>> He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
>> someone
>> email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
>> re-activate his access to FoT..
>>
>> All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
>> found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address 
>> or
>> server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
>> release... any help?
>>
>> The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>>
>> Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>>
>> All the best... Bobby Whitehead
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 14 20:19:32 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 22:19:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907142209450.3085@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I recognize that the answer to this question is more or less "find the 
longest straight and gear up/down 'till you hit the redline just before 
the brake point...

But here's the question anyway - I bumped up the power in the TR6 
autocrosser this year. There's enough bump (and it's not completely tuned 
yet) that I can pretty much spin the wheels at will in 2nd, or so it 
seems. I also observe that the rears are running hotter than the fronts - 
this is new territory for me, it's always been the other way 'round.

At any rate, shifting in autox is mostly a waste unless you consider the 
effects of running the motor to beyond the $$$ indication on the rev 
counter, SO - if you're gear too low (numerically higher) - say 4.33 - and 
you happen to have a spare diff with 4.10 gears, would an increase in 
available power combined with the higher gear (numerically lower, 4.10 in 
this case) balance things out so you don't have to row through the gears 
as much?

What I get with my gears spreadsheet is 4.33 and 6200 redline == 62 MPH in 
2nd whereas 4.10 and 6200 == 65 mph... hmmmm, maybe still too low to avoid 
the upshift to third on occasion (we run airport autcorsses in our 
regions, so we can see some speeds in excess of 80 in prepared cars.)

Just curious what anyone has to offer on the matter.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Tue Jul 14 22:40:15 2009
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 23:40:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907142209450.3085@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <35A563DDEDB644B8B94B0DD72531EF0C@rocky>

Just IMHO -- for autox the lower gears work better. Thing is, since every 
event is a new course you can't tune to the track like you can road racing. 
I have a 4.55 in my Spitfire. I'll go to one event and do the whole course 
in 2nd, another and I'm rowing back and forth 2nd and 3rd. And you never 
know which until you get there. Changing rear ends is too complex and time 
consuming for tuning for an autox course. So you learn to row when you need 
to. Sometimes short-shifting. Shifting is only a waste when you spend so 
little time in the new gear as to have made it not worth the trouble, but if 
you can get a couple of seconds or a couple hundred feet in the new gear, 
shift! And then learn how to smooth out your 3-2 downshifts (it's not really 
double-clutching but a little throttle blip helps)

My 4.11 hasn't been in the car since the last time I road raced at 
Hutchinson (airport course), which was in the '80s sometime. Even on 
dragstrip tracks like Memphis and the old Wentzville circuit, the 4:55 was 
overall better. At Hutch, the 4.11 was worth 4 seconds a lap over the 4.55. 
At Hallett, the 4.55 was worth 4 seconds over the 4.11. In autox, with the 
4.11 I could hardly get going and I'd give up a ton every time I needed to 
accelerate. I also used to run on 21-inch tires, now I'm on 20s (so's 
everyone else) for the gearing change. BTW, my local AX site is an 
ex-airport runway too, which tends to faster-speed courses.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:19 PM
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question


> Hi,
>
> I recognize that the answer to this question is more or less "find the 
> longest straight and gear up/down 'till you hit the redline just before 
> the brake point...
>
> But here's the question anyway - I bumped up the power in the TR6 
> autocrosser this year. There's enough bump (and it's not completely tuned 
> yet) that I can pretty much spin the wheels at will in 2nd, or so it 
> seems. I also observe that the rears are running hotter than the fronts - 
> this is new territory for me, it's always been the other way 'round.
>
> At any rate, shifting in autox is mostly a waste unless you consider the 
> effects of running the motor to beyond the $$$ indication on the rev 
> counter, SO - if you're gear too low (numerically higher) - say 4.33 - and 
> you happen to have a spare diff with 4.10 gears, would an increase in 
> available power combined with the higher gear (numerically lower, 4.10 in 
> this case) balance things out so you don't have to row through the gears 
> as much?
>
> What I get with my gears spreadsheet is 4.33 and 6200 redline == 62 MPH in 
> 2nd whereas 4.10 and 6200 == 65 mph... hmmmm, maybe still too low to avoid 
> the upshift to third on occasion (we run airport autcorsses in our 
> regions, so we can see some speeds in excess of 80 in prepared cars.)
>
> Just curious what anyone has to offer on the matter.
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 06:02:18 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:02:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he was
autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
Second?
Thanks, Bill


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul 15 06:21:10 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:21:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] nomination
In-Reply-To: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
References: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <20090715122128.9676C18766E@autox.team.net>

Sure, I'll second that one!

- Tony Drews

At 07:02 AM 7/15/2009, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote:
>Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
>I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
>Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
>I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he was
>autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
>Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
>E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
>Second?
>Thanks, Bill


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 06:23:00 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:23:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <004a01ca0546$fe997580$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, I hope this makes it onto the list; first attempt at it. Also a
computer klutz.

 I did the vintage event at BeaveRun last weekend, near Pittsburgh. Had a
blast, especially after moving to a smaller run group. Actually passed some
guys and did some dicing!
 There was a driver school Friday and a fair amount of rookie stripes during
the races. And a very large amount of very large smiles after the races from
the aforementioned rookies! And lots fof thumbs-ups.
 I talked with Jason Sukey, who was autocrossing his Mini, and many other
Triumph fans.
Also Dan Styduhar, who was autocrossing his TR3A.
 The weather was good, except for a little rain around noon Saturday. Also a
good turnout, a few more vintage cars than last year. The organizers were
pleased.
 The VRG is a great bunch to run with. Very friendly and easy-going, but
serious about having fun. One of the organizers came up to me as I was loading
up and thanked me for doing the event! How often does that happen?
 I'm going to Schenley Park(Pittsburgh) this weekend for the PVGP event. Maybe
see some of you there.
 Bill Tobin  Erie, PA, where Big Bad Voodoo Daddy put on a free concert at a
park by the Bay last night; great time.


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Wed Jul 15 08:38:32 2009
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:38:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
Message-ID: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>

Hello FoT'rs; Quick question on the spindle reinforcing kit available for the
tr2-tr6. Has anyone ever experienced an installation where NO shims are used
on the spacer end and still have to much play? It appears that i need to have
my spacers milled down to accept some thickness of shims so i can adjust as
needed. The instructions state that most installs require about .007 to
achieve proper setting. The drivers side has .002 shim, but that will
deteriorate in short order on the track. The pass. side has NO shims and still
has movement. I have looked at all components till i am blue in the face and
cannot see an issue that may be hanging me up. Anyone run across the same
issue?? Thank You ! Mark Pendy #65 tr4


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 08:53:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:53:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
In-Reply-To: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
Message-ID: <20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Anyone run across the same
> issue?? 

Not the same issue, but a similar one.  Changing the bearings in a Stag
differential a few months back, I found I had to remove almost .030" worth
of shims to get back to the original clearance.  The replacement was thicker
than the original (which was slightly worn, but certainly nowhere near .030"
worth).

Only that one bearing was different; all the others matched the originals.
Don't recall the brand offhand, but it was a name brand like NTN or Timken,
not some offshore clone.

Randall


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 08:56:49 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:56:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 1968 Daytona 24 hours race report
In-Reply-To: <20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
	<20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA0E0@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Found on the internet: A race report on a TR4 that ran the 1968 Daytona 24
hour race.

http://www1.fccj.edu/jdebo/Daytona%2024,%201969.htm

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 09:37:47 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:37:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.ht
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Wed Jul 15 09:44:31 2009
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:44:31 EDT
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <c61.4f3ad861.378f535f@aol.com>

/R87dPm: Permission denied


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Jul 15 11:23:42 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:23:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>

Joe Hines where is he from or what area is he out?

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kramer, Robert
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:38 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; Andrew Kramer
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it
back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is
listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a
picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph
L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>
/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.h
t
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 12:17:31 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:17:31 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
In-Reply-To: <007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>
References: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA4CF@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Joe is/was from Statesboro GA. I talked with him this morning after I sent out
the email. The car definitely ran the 24 hour race, he says twice, and also
Sebring 12 hour and the ARRC in 1967. He got the car from a Julian Qualbaum
sp?, but he is the one that converted it to a race car. Some Morgan guy built
the engine. He was very proud of the welded diff because he did the work. I
think Detroit Lockers weren't yet available. In the 1967 ARRC he remembered my
current car and also said that nobody could stay close to the DP winning Yenko
Corvair. He has a picture to send me so I think I have found the beginning of
the trail.

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig [mailto:wensley_tr at comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 12:24 PM
To: Kramer, Robert; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; 'Andrew Kramer'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

Joe Hines where is he from or what area is he out?

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kramer, Robert
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:38 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; Andrew Kramer
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it
back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is
listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a
picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph
L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>
/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.h
t
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 15 16:04:11 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:04:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
References: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <C6B393D12D844C3990287728AD48E0C3@userb38463fba5>

I thought he was on the list?
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM TOBIN" <william.tobin3 at verizon.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 8:02 AM
Subject: [Fot] nomination


> Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
> I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
> Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
> I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he 
> was
> autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
> Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
> E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
> Second?
> Thanks, Bill


From gkbyrne at optushome.com.au  Wed Jul 15 17:11:41 2009
From: gkbyrne at optushome.com.au (Geoff Byrne)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:11:41 +1000
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
In-Reply-To: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
References: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
Message-ID: <35AF84D18DBC45F6BFC16F7374A85E00@GEOFFPC>

Mark
i had a lot of trouble with the shims in my TR6 race car . The small shims 
of .002 and .005 where getting crusted under racing loads and being spat out 
. I believe the contact surface was too small for the loads . I fixed the 
proplem by machining off  1/8 from the spacer them making up a thicker shim 
and hand fitting. Takes a lot of patience to get it right by surface 
grinding a bit at a time off the small shim. You must have .002 clearance or 
you will have bearing problems . How do I know???
Geoff Byrne
TR6 racer down under

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Pendergrass" <mpendy at dishmail.net>
To: "friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims


> Hello FoT'rs; Quick question on the spindle reinforcing kit available for 
> the
> tr2-tr6. Has anyone ever experienced an installation where NO shims are 
> used
> on the spacer end and still have to much play? It appears that i need to 
> have
> my spacers milled down to accept some thickness of shims so i can adjust 
> as
> needed. The instructions state that most installs require about .007 to
> achieve proper setting. The drivers side has .002 shim, but that will
> deteriorate in short order on the track. The pass. side has NO shims and 
> still
> has movement. I have looked at all components till i am blue in the face 
> and
> cannot see an issue that may be hanging me up. Anyone run across the same
> issue?? Thank You ! Mark Pendy #65 tr4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:25:26 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:25:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>

I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James' TR4.

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>
> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>
> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.
>
> For 2009 SOVREN will again be presenting the Columbia River Classic
> in Portland on Labor Day weekend- Sept. 5-7.  This year we are
> featuring Triumphs and are pleased to be hosting the 2009 Kastner
> Cup. We are determined to give you a high quality racing experience
> with the laid-back atmosphere that has been so popular at this
> event.  As in previous years, we will share PIR with the All British
> Field Meet, making the venue a delight for sports car fans.  Even
> more exciting news is that we have just learned that there will be
> no drag races at PIR either Friday or Saturday nights so we will
> have the whole paddock to ourselves and a peaceful evening for those
> who are camping at the track.  Our popular Saturday night vintage
> party and the track BBQ have been rolled into one extravaganza at
> the track on Sunday night.  There are many advantages to this- no
> long wait for that pesky bus or search for a parking space in St.
> Johns, no getting lost driving there, plenty of food for all and
> places to sit while enjoying it.  We will have music, good food,
> and, of course, the vintage fashions, so dust off those vintage duds
> and be ready to rock on.
>
> How can you help?  First, make sure you plan to enter the race and
> spread the word as you meet other vintage drivers.  The deadline for
> the early bird entry fee is postmarked by August 10st so dont
> forget to get your entry in by then. We had 165 entrants last year
> and hope to have as many or more in 2009.  If you want to be
> featured in the program we need your entry as soon as possible so
> please send it in earlier than the deadline!!!!!   The deadline for
> getting the finished program to the ABFM is August 12th  so we need
> to know if you are entering as soon as possible (and I promise I
> wont cash your entry check until September).
>
> Second, consider being a race sponsor.  To be able to complete our
> ambitious plans, we need to secure sponsors for each race so
> consider doing so for yourself or your company or with your race
> group. Your name will be listed as a race sponsor in the program and
> mentioned by our announcers several times during the event.  Well
> even give you four free passes and an extra parking pass for the
> weekend!  All this for just $250.  Contact Judy Buckingham at (425)
> 277-3177 or rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com.
>
> Saturday, Sept. 5 & Sunday, Sept. 6
>
> Group 1  Vintage & FV- $250                              Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 2-  Historic Small Bore            		    Sat.   Porsche
> Friends of Bruce     Ross
>
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 3  Historic Mid Bore & Sportsracers      Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 4- Historic Large Bore-                               Sat.
>
Sun
> .  #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 5- Formula Cars
> Sat.              	    Bonhams
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
>  Group 6- Exhibition/CanAm-                                Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
> 										    Sun. #2
> All Triumph Kastner Cup  Race - $500
> Sun.                        Horizon Racing
>
> Monday, Sept. 7  (2 Races each Group)
> Group 1  Vintage & FV                                         #1
>
#2
> Group 2-  Historic Small Bore                               #1
>
#2
> Group 3  Historic Mid Bore                                  #1
>
#2
> Group 4 - Historic Large Bore                               #1
>
#2
> Group 5- Formula Ford-                                         #1
>
#2
> Group 6  Exhibition                                            #1
>
#2
>
> You can see we have lots of races and lots of opportunity for
> sponsorship.
>  (NOTE- these groups may change depending on the entries received!)
>
> Another way to help would be to advertise your business in the
> program.  It is distributed to all of the racers, all 800
> participants in the All British Field Meet, and sold to spectators.
> Contact Doug Kirk at Douglas.k.kirk at boeing.com for ad
> specifications.  Contact Judy Buckingham to order ad.
>
> Rates:
> 1/4 page - $100
> 1/2 page - $150
> Full page  $275
> Inside front cover              Bonhams
>
>
> Lets all work together to make the Columbia River Classic a great
> weekend.


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Thu Jul 16 09:42:43 2009
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:42:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
Message-ID: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>

FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance problem.
The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to bearing,
same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since the
spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see that your
going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf and they
also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing the
spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had anymore
issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my question. Mark
Pendergrass TR4 #65


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Jul 16 10:24:52 2009
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:24:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
	<73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>

I believe this is Jeff Quicks TR4A, not John James TR4
http://www.sovren.org/default.html
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
To: "friends of triumph" <FOt at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic


>I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
> week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
> downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James' TR4.
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
>> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>>
>> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>>
>> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
>> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.


From billb at bnj.com  Thu Jul 16 10:47:40 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:47:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
In-Reply-To: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
References: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
Message-ID: <A05D65B8-B51D-4AFB-830E-03B2DF87B7B6@bnj.com>

Something I have to work on with Peyote. I'm getting knock back now,  
because I left the clearance go too loose. I figured better off loose  
with a little bearing preload than tight.
On Jul 16, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Mark Pendergrass wrote:

> FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance  
> problem.
> The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to  
> bearing,
> same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since  
> the
> spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see  
> that your
> going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf  
> and they
> also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing  
> the
> spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had  
> anymore
> issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my  
> question. Mark
> Pendergrass TR4 #65
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Thu Jul 16 10:50:14 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:50:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
In-Reply-To: <595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
	<73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>
	<595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>
Message-ID: <A3EFCF3E-B958-4106-9E5A-F32BB35D1550@bnj.com>

Yup, I don't know how I could have missed that.

On Jul 16, 2009, at 9:24 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:

> I believe this is Jeff Quicks TR4A, not John James TR4
> http://www.sovren.org/default.html
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
> To: "friends of triumph" <FOt at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 3:25 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
>
>
>> I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
>> week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
>> downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James'
>> TR4.
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>>> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>>> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
>>> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>>> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>>>
>>> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>>>
>>> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
>>> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.


From jcjcarrera at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 18:21:42 2009
From: jcjcarrera at comcast.net (jcjcarrera at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:21:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Columbia River Classic!
Message-ID: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, Charly Mitchel is correct, the CRC cover poster is not mine, but Jeff Quick, a great TR4A originally raced by his Dad, Ray in the late 1960's. Understand his Dad was the 68 SCCA PNW Champion in this car. 



Hope to see as many of you as possible at the CRC and the All British Field meet held in conjunction with our SOVREN races! 



John James 

#116 

65 TR4 


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 20:12:03 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:12:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
Message-ID: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?


From malaboge at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 20:28:09 2009
From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:28:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>

Dude-
I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1" wide...?BUT it's?less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't, you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to change a belt...

I need a good belt myself....
Nick in Nor Cal




So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 20:37:10 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:37:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <95A2C9C6-8833-4903-A98D-4CF9B3553679@comcast.net>

sounds good, but actually the belt on the car and the replacement are  
both massively thick (3/4" est.) with kind of a cogged look on the  
inside.
might have to undo an engine mount and jack it up.  Hope the exhaust  
doesn't pull off the manifold.  sometimes one little a project leads  
to another . . .

On Jul 16, 2009, at 10:28 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Dude-
I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1"  
wide... BUT it's less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull  
the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't,  
you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil  
impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have  
settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to  
change a belt...

I need a good belt myself....
Nick in Nor Cal


So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul 16 20:45:07 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:45:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Columbia River Classic!
In-Reply-To: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryv
	ille.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090717024534.8B2E418767D@autox.team.net>

My entry went out today.

- Tony Drews

At 07:21 PM 7/16/2009, jcjcarrera at comcast.net wrote:
>Yes, Charly Mitchel is correct, the CRC cover poster is not mine, 
>but Jeff Quick, a great TR4A originally raced by his Dad, Ray in the 
>late 1960's. Understand his Dad was the 68 SCCA PNW Champion in this car.
>
>
>
>Hope to see as many of you as possible at the CRC and the All 
>British Field meet held in conjunction with our SOVREN races!
>
>
>
>John James
>
>#116
>
>65 TR4
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Thu Jul 16 20:53:41 2009
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:53:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
	<95A2C9C6-8833-4903-A98D-4CF9B3553679@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <94F6A5FB3F3C4FF69AFAFE364DCA44CA@Elliott>

On my 1958 TR3A, I can gain extra space by turning the steering wheel way 
over to the extreme lock on one side or the other.  I can't remember which 
side, but give it a try.  I use cogged belts and have no problem putting a 
new on on.  I twist the belt 90 degrees so I'm only trying to pull about 
1/2" past all the interference, not the full 3/4" width.  As for removing 
your old one, just cut it off.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen at comcast.net>
To: <malaboge at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question


> sounds good, but actually the belt on the car and the replacement are
> both massively thick (3/4" est.) with kind of a cogged look on the
> inside.
> might have to undo an engine mount and jack it up.  Hope the exhaust
> doesn't pull off the manifold.  sometimes one little a project leads
> to another . . .
>
> On Jul 16, 2009, at 10:28 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:
>
> Dude-
> I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
> the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1"
> wide... BUT it's less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull
> the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't,
> you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil
> impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have
> settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
> And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to
> change a belt...
>
> I need a good belt myself....
> Nick in Nor Cal
>
>
> So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
> I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
> changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
> aren't reliable?
>
> Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
> extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
> the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
> doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
> rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
>
> Any cheater tricks?
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Jul 16 21:33:18 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301ca068f$58c9a360$0a5cea20$@com>

Yup, you put a 2x4 or 2x6 on the bottom of the oil pan and jack the engine
up just enough to squeeze that thick old fan belt on. Just enough "give" in
those original motor mounts to lift engine enough to get the belt on.  I
remember the first time I had to do it.  Might have even carried around a
junk of 2x4 along with the spare belt in case I had to change it on the
road.  Never did, just kept a close eye on the belt.  Those old thick belts
used to crack and have to be replaced fairly often.  Common problem and
"back in the day" that's what everyone did.  Seemed like common knowledge
back then.

Tim Murphy
1961 TR4 #317 (Had a 1966 TR4A that I bought new and had for about 25 years
until the frame broke.  Sure wish RATCO would have been around then!)

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:12 PM
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 22:08:58 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:08:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
> 
> Any cheater tricks?

As noted, jack the engine up.  However, I believe the motor mounts were
supposed to stand tall enough to leave room to change the belt, with the
addition of shims if necessary.

Randall


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 17 00:57:36 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:57:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Try this:

Make the belt lose with unclamping the alternator.
Then jack up the engine a little (strong wooden board under the oil pan).
Then you can slip the thick belt through the gap between the crank extension
and he steering rack.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2009 04:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 04:59:45 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 06:59:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>
Message-ID: <8D8AB3D1-C30F-4CAE-BD0B-4F30D6CA2EFA@comcast.net>

thanks, all.  Sure is nice having this body of knowledge to tap into.
Love driving this old, faded, unmolested TR4!

On Jul 17, 2009, at 2:57 AM, MadMarx wrote:

Try this:

Make the belt lose with unclamping the alternator.
Then jack up the engine a little (strong wooden board under the oil
pan).
Then you can slip the thick belt through the gap between the crank
extension
and he steering rack.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2009 04:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Jul 17 09:18:55 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:18:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301ca06f1$e799ecf0$b6cdc6d0$@com>

I don't think the motor mounts allowed for changing the belt without jacking
the engine up a bit.  I'll have to look, but might even show or say that in
the original "Workshop Manual".  I do know, that even when the car was new,
you couldn't get the belt off/on without jacking the engine.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 11:09 PM
To: ''Friends of Triumph' Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

> Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
> 
> Any cheater tricks?

As noted, jack the engine up.  However, I believe the motor mounts were
supposed to stand tall enough to leave room to change the belt, with the
addition of shims if necessary.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From KENMUN at aol.com  Fri Jul 17 13:01:14 2009
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 15:01:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery
Message-ID: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>

fot, i'm in the process of disassembling my tr3 vintage racer motor to find 
 the source of water in the oil and overheating. so far i've found a crack 
in the  #4 liner (it goes from the top down about 1 1/2" ), the #4 piston 
has a slight  indentation in the top as if it has contacted the head, the 2 
compression rings  are broken and the piston is cracked in the area between 
the compression ring  groves. i think the cracked liner explains the water in 
the oil and overheating  but, why did it crack? and how are the piston and 
ring problems related to the  liner crack? the motor is 87mm, 10.5/1 cr, 
liners up .005", steel head gasket,  and the motor had been running for about 1 
yr. thanks for any ideas. ken  m.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823307x1201398715/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Jul 17 15:45:34 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:45:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery
In-Reply-To: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>
References: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca0727$eb24b1d0$c16e1570$@com>

We cracked both #3 and #4 liners when we overheated due to the threaded end
of the water pump snapping off and ultimately throwing the belt off.  When
we took the head off there was water in the cylinders.  I'm thinking we may
have cracked the liners due to "hydraulic" pressure from trying to compress
the water that got into the cylinders.  Had similar cracks, vertical, down a
couple of inches.  As I recall, also scuffed at least #4 piston and maybe
#3.

Tim
1961 TR4 #317

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of KENMUN at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 2:01 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery

fot, i'm in the process of disassembling my tr3 vintage racer motor to find 
 the source of water in the oil and overheating. so far i've found a crack 
in the  #4 liner (it goes from the top down about 1 1/2" ), the #4 piston 
has a slight  indentation in the top as if it has contacted the head, the 2 
compression rings  are broken and the piston is cracked in the area between 
the compression ring  groves. i think the cracked liner explains the water
in 
the oil and overheating  but, why did it crack? and how are the piston and 
ring problems related to the  liner crack? the motor is 87mm, 10.5/1 cr, 
liners up .005", steel head gasket,  and the motor had been running for
about 1 
yr. thanks for any ideas. ken  m.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823307x1201398715/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 17 20:15:21 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 22:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
References: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
	<A05D65B8-B51D-4AFB-830E-03B2DF87B7B6@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <008201ca074d$9ae11940$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  Hi all, when using the uprated spindles and assembling the whole thing, be
sure to put the spacer into the rear of the hub cavity first, then the rear
bearing, then the grease seal. Guess how I learned this?
  I talked to some guy at Grattan a couple years ago about those hubs and
mentioned that I goofed the first time I put them together; I thought the
spacer would slide in from the front. Oops!
  Turns out the guy was Uncle Jack! I think he changed the instructions.
  They are a great setup.
  Bill ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
  To: "Mark Pendergrass" <mpendy at dishmail.net>
  Cc: "friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion


  > Something I have to work on with Peyote. I'm getting knock back now,
  > because I left the clearance go too loose. I figured better off loose
  > with a little bearing preload than tight.
  > On Jul 16, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Mark Pendergrass wrote:
  >
  > > FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance
  > > problem.
  > > The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to
  > > bearing,
  > > same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since
  > > the
  > > spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see
  > > that your
  > > going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf
  > > and they
  > > also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing
  > > the
  > > spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had
  > > anymore
  > > issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my
  > > question. Mark
  > > Pendergrass TR4 #65
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > >
  > > http://www.fot-racing.com
  > >
  > > Fot mailing list
  > > Fot at autox.team.net
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From jfrymark at aol.com  Sat Jul 18 14:41:42 2009
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Mechanical Mystery
Message-ID: <603B6C4C-4010-4F14-88DA-4117AD657E9C@aol.com>

Ken,

What you describe is the result I found when the crankshaft let go  
between the third and fourth crankpins. It's amazing that the motor  
will run for awhile with a broken crank!

John Frymark


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 16:43:23 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 15:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Tech help wanted..Lemons Race...$100.00
Message-ID: <8D1CF850B17E4BBE9AE37289A6DDE0BF@Bud>

Hi Gang...I thought some of you might be interested.If so contact Dan Radowicz
at his link below.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: dradowicz at sbcglobal.net
To: Dan Radowicz
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 3:12 PM
Subject: Tech help


      Ladies & Gentlemen:

      We're looking for a few good women & men (4-6) to help with tech
inspections at the Buttonwillow 24Hrs. of Lemons - August 14-16th.  Tech is on
Friday, from 11:30am till 7p.m., maybe earlier if all the cars get through
tech early.  Pay is $100 for the day, plus refreshments/food.

      Candidates need to have good common sense about car safety, racewear and
racecar prep.  We have a tech sheet that covers the important aspects of what
is required of the teams, so you're not sailing blind, and the rules are very
clear.  We divvy up into tech teams, so there is help if odd question arises.

      Contact me by email if you're interested.  We look forward to working
with you.

      Regards,
      drr
      925.736.8462

      p.s. If you're heading to Monterey, you could do both and have some
spending money in your pocket.


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Sun Jul 19 10:51:12 2009
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:51:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
Message-ID: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>

Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

Thanks in advance.

Kevin


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Jul 19 11:53:07 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 13:53:07 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
Message-ID: <c34.5d76d0e6.3794b783@cs.com>

Kevin,

I got one of Tony Vigliotti's "Ratco" accelerator cables for my AMBRO. I am 
very pleased with it. Very adaptable and targeted at the TR6.

Joe Alexander


> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Kevin


From Dlhogye at aol.com  Sun Jul 19 17:39:09 2009
From: Dlhogye at aol.com (Dlhogye at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:39:09 EDT
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/control arm bushings
Message-ID: <c76.4a80ac54.3795089d@aol.com>

Hello   FoT, 
   I've installed a new set of bushings on the lower control arms of my TR3 
and reamed them to fit the new trunnion pin. It seems that the inner pivot 
and outer pivot of the control arms are not in parallel. With the inner 
mounted up the outer pivot has about 1/8"+ gap between the trunnion. I have the 
problem with both sides. I realize that there are probably a number of ways 
to remedy the matter. Like bending or straightening the arms to make the 
ends become parallel or ream the bushings to a clearance that will make up the 
difference or replace the inner steel sleeve arrangement with polyurethane 
bushings to allow the trunnion to pivot without binding up. Its also possible 
that the inner pivots are not straight.
   Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
   Thanks,
    Dave H.


**************
An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in 
Just 2 Easy Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyExcfooterNO62)


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 19 19:47:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:47:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SPAM:  trunnion/control arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <c76.4a80ac54.3795089d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090720014742573.YDOQ21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> With the inner
> mounted up the outer pivot has about 1/8"+ gap between the trunnion.

That seems like a very small misalignment to me; even poly bushes should
easily deflect that much without binding.  I would go ahead and do a trial
assembly with all 4 arms and the correct clearances (but not the spring);
then see if it binds.

Randall


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 19 20:18:44 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:18:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees
Message-ID: <00d901ca08e0$68ed2930$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, I just found out that John Surtees' son Henry was killed in a racing
accident at Brands Hatch today in a F2 race. Seems another driver crashed,
lost a rear wheel, and the wheel hit young Surtees in the head. Surtees then
also crashed. He was only 18 or 19.

I saw John Surtees at my first GP at the Glen in '68; driving a Honda if I
recall correctly. Good driver, but didn't like the Chaparral too much in later
Can Am races, again if memory serves me.
Bill


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 20:24:14 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:24:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees
References: <00d901ca08e0$68ed2930$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <0A10C096017740178F9BE627DF985F0D@Bud>

Hello William....thank you for letting us know....That is.. 'Tough Stuff'
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM TOBIN" <william.tobin3 at verizon.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:18 PM
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees


> Hi all, I just found out that John Surtees' son Henry was killed in a 
> racing
> accident at Brands Hatch today in a F2 race. Seems another driver crashed,
> lost a rear wheel, and the wheel hit young Surtees in the head. Surtees 
> then
> also crashed. He was only 18 or 19.
>
> I saw John Surtees at my first GP at the Glen in '68; driving a Honda if I
> recall correctly. Good driver, but didn't like the Chaparral too much in 
> later
> Can Am races, again if memory serves me.
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 21:51:38 2009
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 03:51:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My apologies for sending an email though my aol address. A reply had the word
spam connected to it. I'm sending a return reply though my comcast address.


B Randall, thanks for your reply.
B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as soon as I
try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. I've reamed the bushings
to a close fit and they move freely until I try to tighten the gap. I've
opened up the diameter of bushes on one side, to what I feel is too sloppy, to
decrease the binding and I feel that this is also not correct because the
trunnion pin is now riding on a small portion of the bushing surface because
the pin is cocked in the bushing a bit. I think that I can make this work, but
it doesn't seem right. I have a factory service manual that describes to
trunnion set up and I have a good understanding of the process. This is
however my first attempt at setting up a TR and I'm wondering if this is a
typical sort of problem one might have. I'd really like to get it right and
not too tight.B 


B B Thanks again for the reply,
B B  Dave


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Jul 19 22:05:31 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:05:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
In-Reply-To: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <130D20C9-167A-4166-A3F4-0C4662954AAC@bnj.com>

You shouldn't do any of that. You probably have some bent parts that  
are causing the gap. Either the upright, or the arms are the most  
likely, but it could be anything. The parts should fit precisely and  
move freely.

If you stroke the suspension and the gap changes then you definitely  
have bent parts.


On Jul 19, 2009, at 8:51 PM, davehogye wrote:

> My apologies for sending an email though my aol address. A reply had  
> the word
> spam connected to it. I'm sending a return reply though my comcast  
> address.
>
>
> B Randall, thanks for your reply.
> B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as  
> soon as I
> try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. I've reamed the  
> bushings
> to a close fit and they move freely until I try to tighten the gap.  
> I've
> opened up the diameter of bushes on one side, to what I feel is too  
> sloppy, to
> decrease the binding and I feel that this is also not correct  
> because the
> trunnion pin is now riding on a small portion of the bushing surface  
> because
> the pin is cocked in the bushing a bit. I think that I can make this  
> work, but
> it doesn't seem right. I have a factory service manual that  
> describes to
> trunnion set up and I have a good understanding of the process. This  
> is
> however my first attempt at setting up a TR and I'm wondering if  
> this is a
> typical sort of problem one might have. I'd really like to get it  
> right and
> not too tight.B
>
>
> B B Thanks again for the reply,
> B B  Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 20 07:50:03 2009
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:50:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <481323882.1392973.1248097803704.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 08:52:37 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:52:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
In-Reply-To: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090720145237701.IHIP28563@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as soon
> as I
> try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. 

In that case, I agree, something is bent or out of line.  

If you can turn the trunnion with the arms in the 1/8" position, that would
eliminate the trunnion pin I think.  Likewise if it stays the same
throughout the range of motion, that would eliminate the inner pins.  That
leaves the arms themselves.  

Is there any chance the new bushings were reamed at an angle?  1/8" over the
length of those arms is still a darn small angle.

Randall


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 11:15:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:15:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <277E538B7A1D49B99B38032835E52935@jdnet.deere.com>

> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

FWIW, after an original cable imported from the UK failed within a matter of
months; I asked a local bicycle shop for a "teflon lined brake cable".  It
works great for the throttle cable on my Stag.

They had various lengths, but I just got the longest one and trimmed it as
necessary.  Cost less than $10 in 2004.

-- Randall 


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 18:25:42 2009
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 00:25:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <277E538B7A1D49B99B38032835E52935@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1567789888.3510361248135942927.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I use a Lokar teflon lined cable setup from Summit.B  You have to do a little
modification to get it to work but it's good.B  Can get part number if
necessary.



aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 1:15:04 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Fot] Throttle cable

> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

FWIW, after an original cable imported from the UK failed within a matter of
months; I asked a local bicycle shop for a "teflon lined brake cable". B It
works great for the throttle cable on my Stag.

They had various lengths, but I just got the longest one and trimmed it as
necessary. B Cost less than $10 in 2004.

-- Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Tue Jul 21 12:10:12 2009
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 12:10:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
Message-ID: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>

I appreciate all the suggestions. The cable in question is for 71-73' Mark III
GT6.
But it's a rare item. As much as I hate to say, I guess Vicky Brit is the only
ones who may have it on the shelf. ($19.95) Am still looking around however.
Maybe NW British...
thanks much guys !

Kevin


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Jul 22 01:36:58 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 09:36:58 +0200
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAIBILTm1yBJHoWTPulh/N7QBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Maybe it is more TR4 style but I believe in throttle linkages more than in
cables.
I suppose more cables stuck than linkages and killed engines.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von KEVIN LYNCH
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. Juli 2009 20:10
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] throttle cable

I appreciate all the suggestions. The cable in question is for 71-73' Mark
III
GT6.
But it's a rare item. As much as I hate to say, I guess Vicky Brit is the
only
ones who may have it on the shelf. ($19.95) Am still looking around however.
Maybe NW British...
thanks much guys !

Kevin
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 08:50:14 2009
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:50:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
Message-ID: <cdf.531e2a03.37988126@aol.com>

In a message dated 07/22/2009 2:38:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr4racing at googlemail.com writes:


> Maybe it is more TR4 style but I believe in throttle linkages more than 
> in
> cables.
> I suppose more cables stuck than linkages and killed engines.
> 

Plus it's been my experience that if your car is not grounded properly, the 
system seems to want 'ground' via that cable.  More than once I've noted a 
'burnt end' on a broken cable, suggesting the break was electrical and not 
stress related.

Bill Dentinger



**************
What's for dinner tonight?  Find quick and easy dinner ideas 
for any occasion. 
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?ncid=emlcntusfood00000009)


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Thu Jul 23 08:53:01 2009
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:53:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>

/cVfBdi: Permission denied


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul 23 11:22:44 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:22:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] More on AOL
In-Reply-To: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
References: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>

> /cVfBdi: Permission denied
>
>   
Another fine "feature" of AOL is the way it sends out badly formed
HTML in email.  All mail to the various Team.Net goes through a
filter to remove attachments, viruses, etc. and converts it to plain
text if send in HTML.  I don't know if there is an easy way for AOL
folks to send out mail in plain text only.  Maybe just trying different
fonts might do the trick.

mjb.


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 23 11:41:47 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:41:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More on AOL
In-Reply-To: <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>
References: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
  <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <31FEC220AA374C2B82D717A5712CB89E@jdnet.deere.com>

> I don't know if there is an easy way for AOL
> folks to send out mail in plain text only.  Maybe just trying different
> fonts might do the trick.

This site
http://www.amsat.org/amsat/listserv/aol.html
has information that may or may not be helpful.  

Apparently it is easy if you are using AOL 9.0; impossible if you are using
AOL 8.0; somewhat obtuse for 6.0 and 7.0.

According to
http://www.miniature.net/smallstuff/aol.htm
it's pretty easy for AOL web mail.

Randall


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 24 12:37:26 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:26 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR3A wiring harness available
Message-ID: <bca.51a56a7d.379b5966@cs.com>

FOT,-

I bought a new wiring harness for a later TR3A thinking I would use it on 
the AMBRO.

The wiring harness is entirely custom now and just about finished. (Noises 
by the end of the week?)

I could restock with TRF, but thought I would offer to FOT and TR lists.

Contact me for details.

Thanks,  Joe Alexander


From GRMTim at aol.com  Fri Jul 24 12:37:34 2009
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:34 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
Message-ID: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>

I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car 
more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well. The 
current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens 
next.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040


In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:


> 
> AMICI
> For those who have done it.
> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
> 
> Thanks for any insight
> Dennis
> 








**************
A bad credit score is 600 &amp; below. Checking won't affect your 
score. See now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)


From andre at gt6.ca  Fri Jul 24 12:53:18 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:53:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
In-Reply-To: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
References: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>

Was looking at the list today.

Only 5 Triumphs listed, 3 true cars, 1 Devin and 1 unknown.

Group 1A
117 Green 1938 Triumph 1267c Dick Jeffery Hillsborough, CA

Group 3A
29 BRG 1955 Triumph TR2 1991c David Nelson Geyserville, CA

Group 3B
44 White 1966 Triumph GT6 1990c Tim Suddard Ormond Beach, FL
116 Blue 1965 Triumph TR4 2188c John James Gig Harbor, WA

Group 5A
189 Red 1956 Devin-Triumph 2200c John G. Miller Laguna Hills, CA


2009/7/24  <GRMTim at aol.com>:
> I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car
> more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well. The
> current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens
> next.
>
> Tim Suddard
> Publisher; Classic Motorsports
> and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
> www.classicmotorsports.net
> www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
> Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>
>>
>> AMICI
>> For those who have done it.
>> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
>> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
>>
>> Thanks for any insight
>> Dennis
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************
> A bad credit score is 600 &amp; below. Checking won't affect your
> score. See now!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
> hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 13:03:03 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2009 Kastner Cup shirts
Message-ID: <689395.58714.qm@web57608.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

FOT:
 
Informatioin regarding shirts for this years Kastner Cup as been posted at the
Columbia River Classic (CRC) website's link.  These are high quality shirts
and run true to size; hey if I purchase cloth from this company it's got to be
good.  If I can show some bias, I believe the design of these shirts is
extremely good.  You can access the CRC website at:
 
http://www.crclassic.com/ 
 
Bill Babcock did indicate that he hopes to clean up the layout when he has
time later.
 
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me for assistance and I
will get you an answer.
 
Enjoy,
 
Ernie
 
 


From westerneagleracing at att.net  Fri Jul 24 13:22:32 2009
From: westerneagleracing at att.net (westerneagleracing at att.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:22:32 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
	<4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <072420091922.21991.4A6A09F7000B9BE3000055E722243322829B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>

That has to be a record for Triumph under Steve Earle!  Anybody know who is in
the running for the new contract?
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing
-------------- Original message from Andre Rousseau <andre at gt6.ca>:
--------------


> Was looking at the list today.
>
> Only 5 Triumphs listed, 3 true cars, 1 Devin and 1 unknown.
>
> Group 1A
> 117 Green 1938 Triumph 1267c Dick Jeffery Hillsborough, CA
>
> Group 3A
> 29 BRG 1955 Triumph TR2 1991c David Nelson Geyserville, CA
>
> Group 3B
> 44 White 1966 Triumph GT6 1990c Tim Suddard Ormond Beach, FL
> 116 Blue 1965 Triumph TR4 2188c John James Gig Harbor, WA
>
> Group 5A
> 189 Red 1956 Devin-Triumph 2200c John G. Miller Laguna Hills, CA
>
>
> 2009/7/24 :
> > I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car
> > more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well.
The
> > current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens
> > next.
> >
> > Tim Suddard
> > Publisher; Classic Motorsports
> > and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
> > www.classicmotorsports.net
> > www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
> > Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:
> >
> >
> >>
> >> AMICI
> >> For those who have done it.
> >> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
> >> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
> >>
> >> Thanks for any insight
> >> Dennis
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > **************
> > A bad credit score is 600 & below. Checking won't affect your
> > score. See now!
> >
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http
://
> www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&
> > hmpgID=62&bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 16:25:23 2009
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:25:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR4A head needed
Message-ID: <724086011.4103041248474323665.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello FoT,
B B I'm looking for a TR4A cylinder head for my racecar project TR3A. The one
with the small ports and same size valve guides on both intake and exhaust.
I'm located in Santa Cruz, Ca. The closer the better for shipping purposes.
I'd appreciate it.
B B Thanks,
B B  Dave Hogye


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jul 24 20:14:41 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:14:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
Message-ID: <0KNB00MVTFKGK42A@vms173003.mailsrvcs.net>

The lead washer which seals the oil pressure relief screw in the 
filter head is NLA.  What are folks using as an effective replacement?

tia

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Fri Jul 24 20:18:54 2009
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:18:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
Message-ID: <944663.97190.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim: I use solder. I make a ring the same diameter as the screw out of a piece
of solder. When you tighten it down it seals great!
-Ed-

--- On Fri, 7/24/09, J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net> wrote:


From: J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 24, 2009, 9:14 PM


The lead washer which seals the oil pressure relief screw in the filter head
is NLA.  What are folks using as an effective replacement?

tia

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

http://www.fot-racing.com

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From dave at microworks.net  Fri Jul 24 20:24:51 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:24:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <20090725022517.68C6C18764A@autox.team.net>

/P7jYCt: Permission denied


From dave at microworks.net  Fri Jul 24 20:33:29 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:33:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>

Nice...

>From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
>To: <dave at microworks.net>
>Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
>I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX 
>Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>George
>
>
>George & Charisse Montgomery
>Escapees #36965
>George's cell:  830-285-1059
>Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
>georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
>From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
>Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
>To: Michael Connally
>Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
>This guy seems to have Lotus 
>heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
>I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle 
>for the building.
>
>"Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
>Michael Connally
>mcfoto at att.net


From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 24 20:46:45 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:46:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
In-Reply-To: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <040017713AF042A8B5B5A2966C54107B@joepentiumnew>

Must be nice!



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David W. Riddle
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 7:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas

Nice...

>From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
>To: <dave at microworks.net>
>Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
>I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX 
>Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>George
>
>
>George & Charisse Montgomery
>Escapees #36965
>George's cell:  830-285-1059
>Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
>georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
>From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
>Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
>To: Michael Connally
>Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
>This guy seems to have Lotus 
>heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
>I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle 
>for the building.
>
>"Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
>Michael Connally
>mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 18:30:23 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
In-Reply-To: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DDD51479-685F-485F-BC89-EC6EC2687DC8@comcast.net>

Looks like a waxer, not a racer.  Needs a lot more tools, spares and  
projects.  I could really fill that space over time.
Plus, really needs a hoist on an overhead beam, to pull the engines  
and drop them on a bench.

On Jul 24, 2009, at 10:33 PM, David W. Riddle wrote:

Nice...

> From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
> To: <dave at microworks.net>
> Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
> I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX  
> Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
> George
>
>
> George & Charisse Montgomery
> Escapees #36965
> George's cell:  830-285-1059
> Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
> georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
> From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
> Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
> To: Michael Connally
> Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
> This guy seems to have Lotus heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
> I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle  
> for the building.
>
> "Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
> Michael Connally
> mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 18:42:59 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:42:59 EDT
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <c68.5176cc9a.379e5213@aol.com>

Wow!! Thank You!
 
I went on a big cleaning spree after looking at those pics not quite  
understanding why my effort wasn't so organized.  (I'm a slob)  But  we'll ignore 
that...
 
I've got shit piled everywhere cuz it's all current projects.  Ohh,  
allright, I've not done a thing with it in four months but it's still a current  
project...
 
Just today I put three cranks and one block into the back of the E to go to 
 the machine shop tomorrow so that cleared a lot of space...
 
 
In a message dated 7/26/2009 5:36:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
s.janzen at comcast.net writes:

Looks  like a waxer, not a racer.  Needs a lot more tools, spares and   
projects.  I could really fill that space over time.
Plus, really  needs a hoist on an overhead beam, to pull the engines  
and drop them  on a bench.

On Jul 24, 2009, at 10:33 PM, David W. Riddle  wrote:

Nice...

> From: "George M Montgomery"  <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
> To:  <dave at microworks.net>
> Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners  of Texas
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
> I  received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX  
>  Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>  George
>
>
> George & Charisse Montgomery
>  Escapees #36965
> George's cell:  830-285-1059
> Charisse's  cell:  936-933-0134
>  georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
> From: John  Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
> Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06  PM
> To: Michael Connally
> Subject: Received from the Mini Owners  of Texas
>
> This guy seems to have Lotus heaven.   
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
> I  thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle   
> for the building.
>
> "Why must we grow so soon Old, and  so late Smart?"
> Michael Connally
> mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 10:37:21 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:37:21 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Spit cam bearings
Message-ID: <c7f.35260f5d.379f31c1@aol.com>

Amici,
 
Anybody have the part number for The Spitty cam bearings in the MK2?   I 
can't seem to put my hand on it even though I've bought them dozens of  
times...???
 
Steve
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)


From Guyots3 at wmconnect.com  Mon Jul 27 22:09:37 2009
From: Guyots3 at wmconnect.com (Guyots3 at wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:09:37 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Camshaft Bearings part
Message-ID: <ccd.5c744945.379fd401@wmconnect.com>

Camshaft Bearings part #  142647/8

Leon


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:00:55 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:00:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 with a V8
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7D41118766F@autox.team.net>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1272764148.html


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:03:43 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:03:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Why!
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>

A Mustang II 4 cyl in a TR3.  For the love of all that is Holy WHY!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1251923041.html


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:01:19 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:01:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Frame
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7CED218766C@autox.team.net>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1271862449.html


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 01:57:52 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:57:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>

Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 04:08:42 2009
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 03:08:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Why!
In-Reply-To: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>
References: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <638699.2773.qm@web80801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

4 speed suspension. That's even more interesting. I wonder what
would happen
if you put a different transmission in it.
________________________________
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 4:03:43
AM
Subject: [Fot] Why!

A Mustang II 4 cyl in a TR3.  For the love of all that
is Holy WHY!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1251923041.html
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

http://www.fot-racing.com

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From herald948 at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 08:03:50 2009
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:03:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
In-Reply-To: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
References: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>

 Agreed; I'd have said "bronze"! :-)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 3:57 am
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad









Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...?
?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html 


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Jul 28 08:25:31 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:25:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
In-Reply-To: <8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
	<8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004401ca0f8f$43944190$cabcc4b0$@net>

Well it got Dave to look

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andrew Mace
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 10:04 AM
To: dave at microworks.net; members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Gotta love this ad

 Agreed; I'd have said "bronze"! :-)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 3:57 am
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad









Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...?
?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 17:50:38 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:50:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

It has been suggested that I provide instructions for order shirts via PayPal
so here goes.

The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts for the
2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Is to finish the transaction including information in the message
section indicating what size and quantity shirts you have ordered and if you
will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your order shipped
to you.  Then submit order.  You should receive an email confirmation that
your order has been sent.

This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very simple.  If I
can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that can't do
the same.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

I will try to post these message every couple days.

Thank you,

Ernie


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue Jul 28 18:44:16 2009
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 17:44:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] shirt ordering instructions
In-Reply-To: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79E249DB-7138-49C3-9B59-570456FFE400@bnj.com>

Ernie. I've been out of town. Back Thursday and I'll fix things up to  
make it easier


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 28, 2009, at 4:50 PM, Ernest Husmann <ehusmann53 at yahoo.com>  
wrote:

> It has been suggested that I provide instructions for order shirts  
> via PayPal
> so here goes.
>
> The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts  
> for the
> 2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.
>
> Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:
>
> https://www.paypal.com/
>
> Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will  
> appear;
> right click on "Send Money Online"
>
> If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login  
> procedures.
>
> Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com 
> ),
> next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase,  
> select Goods,
> then Continue.
>
> Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a  
> page to set
> up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree  
> and Create
> Account"
>
> Step 5: Is to finish the transaction including information in the  
> message
> section indicating what size and quantity shirts you have ordered  
> and if you
> will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your  
> order shipped
> to you.  Then submit order.  You should receive an email  
> confirmation that
> your order has been sent.
>
> This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very  
> simple.  If I
> can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that  
> can't do
> the same.
>
> Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
> http://www.crclassic.com/
>
> If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
> ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.
>
> I will try to post these message every couple days.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From deweerdm at rogers.com  Tue Jul 28 21:17:48 2009
From: deweerdm at rogers.com (Mike Deweerd)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:17:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Radiator
Message-ID: <CA4AEB398E554CE7A0BE0651EFE728B3@YOUR0463A45548>

Hello everyone
I'm currently running the stock Tr-4 rad in my race car and have just run into
some overheating problems, Can anyone suggest which aftermarket rad is best to
use, one that doesn't require a lot of retro-fitting is best as time is short
before next race. Thanks
Mike Deweerd  62-TR4 # 77


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 29 07:59:54 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:59:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <857180.60254.qm@web57609.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

FOT:
 
I have made revisions to step 5, hopefully clarifying the final step.
 
To allow adequate time for production and shipping, you should have your order
in no later than August 6.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie
 

The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts for the
2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select
Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to
set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Finish the transaction including information in the message
section (located at the very bottom past the "Send Money"
button): indicating:

 
a. What size and quantity shirts you have ordered 
 
b. If you will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your
order shipped to your home; ensure I have a shipping address.

c. Then submit order by clicking "Send Money". 
 
You will receive an email confirmation from PayPal that your order has been
sent.
 
This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very simple.  If I
can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that can't do
the same.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

I will try to post these message every couple days.

Thank you,

Ernie
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 10:39:05 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:39:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
Message-ID: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Greetings FoT,



B 

I have recently considered a dual air/fuel ratio gauge for the car right up
until I found

out how much the buggers cost. Ibm seeing $ 450.00 and up for a dual A/F

setup. That leads me to an EGT system at less than half the cost.

After some study it seems that an EGT reading is only a relative measurement

and unless the temps at a given moment can be directly compared with the
actual A/F ratio then itbs really only numbers on a gauge. There is
information that will say when you get to a certain EGT your about to melt
pistons but no useful info that says

a given EGT is the perfect AFR.



B 

My question is, how do you folks that are using EGTbs use the data?

I know that we canbt actually compare temps from one car to the next because

of the wide range of minute details that will skew the numbers but in general

what do you get from and EGT.



B 

It seems to me that I would have to have corresponding AFR numbers to match to
the

EGT and that would change with any change whatsoever in ignition timing, spark
plug type/gap, mixture, fuel type and altitude. (Ibm at 5000 feet so that
can happen B  +/- 1000 ft.) I wonbt even get into cam timing or ambient
temps & air density.



B 

I would much prefer a dual AFR but not at the prices Ibm seeing. If anyone
knows

of a dual AFR setup for a more reasonable price, please by all means clue me
in.



B 

Thanks again FoT,

Jim G


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 11:36:30 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:36:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Jim,

Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes
in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at
one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my
race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge.
We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for
gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Jul 29 11:54:24 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:54:24 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
Message-ID: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded fuel
and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is leaded.
At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for Susan's
spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad


From emanteno at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 11:59:58 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:59:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
Message-ID: <354a1780907291059s3821b501k5f02acae35bc9bfe@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 12:54 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:

> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
> fuel
> and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
> leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............


Depends on the track. The race gas at Road America, for example, is
unleaded.

Irv Korey


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 12:21:34 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:21:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 110 Octane and Sensor on AFR's
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE3@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Brad,

While that is true the "die" time is very very long with the mileage we
do racing. I got info from my Auto Meter vendor that it'll last me
longer than I can race probably. Plus the sensor is very easily replaced
and considering not terribly expensive either. Now for a street car at
20,000 miles per year a totally different deal!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 12:24:23 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:24:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Pricing
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE5@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Irv,

Just depends on the "style" of gauge you select. Go to Autometer.com and
see which "look" you want. Let me know and I'll get you a price.  Send
it to info at dieselperformanceparts.com
Triumph racers discount always applies. Ask Brad or Susan they'll tell
you.


Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 12:52:58 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:52:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <1977611311.4624511248890264608.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <966716613.4643581248893578132.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Mark, 

>From what I know at this point I definetly agree, the AFR is more relevant. 

I think my logic in wanting two AFR meters is flawed. 

If I were still running the ZS's with variable mixture it would make more sense to have two. 

I have Mikuni HSR 45's now so my settings in large are fixed until I swap jets or jump the needles. 

There would be no reason for different readings between the two carbs other than debris or something 

affecting fuel flow. The Mikuni's are real good about staying syncronized which I suppose would also cause a different AFR between the two. I would be interested in the AFR meter if you would like to discuss off-list. 

Thanks, 

jg 






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info" <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 11:36:30 AM GMT -07:00 Chihuahua / La Paz / Mazatlan 
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges 

Jim, 

Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes 
in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at 
one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my 
race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge. 
We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for 
gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant. 

Mark Craig 
Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 
411 Allied Drive 
Nashville, TN 37211 
866-455-7788 Phone 
615-834-9923 Fax 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Fot mailing list 
Fot at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 14:06:26 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:06:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
Message-ID: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>

AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.

And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.   

I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race car,
since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.

Or is my medication level wrong?


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
To: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
leaded.
At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
Susan's spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96hsNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 14:53:44 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CF7@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Jim,

Not wrong just we will never likely drive enough miles to kill the
sensor in a race car and the information from an AFR is much more
relevant. You also have to get a wide band AFR or it'll be useless.
Check around with your race engine shops that dyno their engines prior
to installation, they all use an Innovative or some other brand wide
band AFR while tuning, They never replace the sensors.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 15:13:41 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:13:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Leaded vs Unleaded for vintage racing
Message-ID: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>

While I'm in a regroup/research mode, what's the feeling on leaded vs
unleaded in TRs, Spitfires more specifically.

I started driving as leaded was being phased out, and there have been many
variations on the urban legends regarding using unleaded in cars designed
prior to the 1970s.

One concept I've seen has it that using a tank or two of leaded in the
"pickling" phase of a new engine is enough to add lead to the valve seats,
good at least for a street car run on unleaded.

Hardened exhaust seats are good for a street car but can potentially drop
out of the head on a race car, causing other problems :O

Obviously, if you're running leaded fuel then it's not an issue.

Anyone running unleaded willing to share their experiences?


Just trying to improve the ride.



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfires.. And other toys

____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career to the next level. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYRam2xDhgIsYZ8xa764dfbmH2yIV7d5qYqv5GBXMkQOQc9f9ypl5m/


From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jul 29 15:44:26 2009
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:44:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaded vs Unleaded for vintage racing
In-Reply-To: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>
References: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <d9f7bd330907291444o23cd0472u60ecd13104a58c13@mail.gmail.com>

Well, my race car doesn't have hardened seats, but since the cylinders are
horizontally opposed, I don't worry about the seats dropping out no matter
what. ;)

Seriously, as the owner of a '76 TR6, I looked into it at one time and had a
chat with one of the reps from Mobil who came to the SCCA National
convention a few years ago. Here's what he said:

Bottom line: Don't worry about it.

Slightly longer version: The whole hardened valve seat thing was a great way
for a bunch of folks to make money on the switch from leaded to unleaded.
The lead was handy in the early days of engines, but was pretty much
unnecessary after WWII due to improvements in metallurgy and machining. Your
valves are far better, lead or no lead at 100k miles than those made prewar
at any point in their life.

So I put whatever is available in my race cars and non catalytic cars.
Street car gets unleaded to keep the cat alive. Doesn't seem to make much
difference.

On that note has anyone seen dyno results on the same engine with different
fuels? A matrix of HP vs leaded/unleaded by octane would be interesting.


On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Jim <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> While I'm in a regroup/research mode, what's the feeling on leaded vs
> unleaded in TRs, Spitfires more specifically.
>
> I started driving as leaded was being phased out, and there have been many
> variations on the urban legends regarding using unleaded in cars designed
> prior to the 1970s.
>
> One concept I've seen has it that using a tank or two of leaded in the
> "pickling" phase of a new engine is enough to add lead to the valve seats,
> good at least for a street car run on unleaded.
>
> Hardened exhaust seats are good for a street car but can potentially drop
> out of the head on a race car, causing other problems :O
>
> Obviously, if you're running leaded fuel then it's not an issue.
>
> Anyone running unleaded willing to share their experiences?
>
>
> Just trying to improve the ride.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> Spitfires.. And other toys
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career
> to the next level.
>
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Jul 29 15:49:11 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:49:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
Message-ID: <000101ca1096$68eecde0$3acc69a0$@com>

We have the EGT probes mounted about 1-2 inches from the exhaust manifold
flange, per the gauge instructions, with the probes on the #1 and #4 header
pipes.  We use them to adjust the mixture in the front and rear SU's (H6's)
and to get an idea if we are running lean or rich.  "Normal" temps are in
the range of 1100 to 1300 degrees.  We try to get about 1200 degrees at WOT
on a long straight.  1400 degrees would be way lean and anything less than
about a 1000 degrees would be rich.

 

We also use them for trouble shooting.  At Elkhart Lake last September we
had a problem where the front carb would go way rich on the front straight
and in the carousel.  The engine would really "load up" and then clear out.
We saw the #1 EGT drop to 8000-9000 when it loaded up.  First found a
sinking float in the front SU but that didn't solve the problem.  Solved the
problem over the winter by making some isolator blocks for the carbs and
also some carb jet "locks".  We had not had the problem before last
September but had put new Cambridge motor mounts in over the summer when I
did the sleeve and piston replacement.  The Cambridge mounts are quite a bit
harder than the Moss or Vic Brit ones which we had previously broken.

 

I think our main problem was the carb jet "sinking" due to a resonant
frequency vibration from the harder Cambridge mounts as Kas reported some
time ago in a post when he saw carb jets sink at a certain RPM on a dyno.
The combination of the isolator blocks and, mainly, the carb jet locks has
solved the problem.  We did an airport test and tune to try and duplicate
the long straight at Road America and did not have any problems.  Also, no
problems at Gingerman and Blackhawk (shorter tracks).

 

The EGT's were invaluable to pointing to the front carb going way rich.
Just took a little while to figure out why.  Have been running about 1300 on
the long straights now with the throttle shafts replaced (were very loose)
whereas before the new throttle shafts we were at 1150-1200.  I had the
wrong needles in the carbs (stock SA's that were set up into the pistons,
what came on the car).  Now have RB's per Kas's recommendation with his G3
cam and our compression of about 11:1.  Hope to do another airport test and
tune next month to see what the temps look like with the right needles.
Suspect we will be back to the 1150-1200.

 

Tim Murphy

1961 TR4 #317


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 15:51:03 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:51:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
	<006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <673993c50907291451j7a667d3embde8a005e095adec@mail.gmail.com>

Wideband AFR's gauges are absolutely critical if you want to extract every
last bit of power out of your motor and keep it safe. However, you should
still learn how to read spark plugs as they will tell you things that the
wideband won't.

As far as unleaded vs. leaded goes, the sensors have no problem with leaded
fuel, but you should replace the sensor after two seasons of use. I think
replacement sensors are about $80. Cheap insurance considering the damage
that an over-rich or too lean condition can cause.


Also windband sensors are absolutely worthless if they're not calibrated
properly. Anytime you mess around with the exhaust system you should
recalibrate it. If access is easy, it's a 2 minute job.


Lastly, you can hook up your AFR gauge to a data acquisition system and
record what your motor is doing real time around the track. For those
without a data system, put the gauge in your in-car video's line of site so
you can see what it's doing. Hope this helps,

Bob Adams


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 16:26:18 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:26:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A/F SU Carbs in-action
Message-ID: <673993c50907291526r6a325a40y8a799f5ea7a20ea3@mail.gmail.com>

While on the subject, some of you guys might enjoy this if you haven't seen
it already...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1YC_gS7aT0


From dave at microworks.net  Wed Jul 29 16:28:34 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:28:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
Message-ID: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>

With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured 
Massa (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have 
released a video message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuS5AwR5Xg

:)


From andre at gt6.ca  Wed Jul 29 16:42:44 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
In-Reply-To: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907291542n2b423554m37f6e29f22be0a4@mail.gmail.com>

4 world champs on the track at the same time.

Hell someone hire back JV and that other Finn and we'll have 6.

I'd watch that race for sure.

;)

A.

-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT/Ferrari 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

2009/7/29 David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>:
> With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured Massa
> (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have released a video
> message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jul 29 17:01:26 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:01:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
In-Reply-To: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907291900160.16536@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009, David W. Riddle wrote:

> With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured Massa 
> (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have released a video 
> message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuS5AwR5Xg
>
> :)

it wooda be bettah if dey use Da Stig

yo yo
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Billb at bnj.com  Wed Jul 29 18:40:32 2009
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:40:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
	<006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>

O2 sensors get poisoned but it's slow. In a racing engine your rings  
will have a shorter life.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 29, 2009, at 1:06 PM, "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.
>
> And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.
>
> I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race  
> car,
> since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.
>
> Or is my medication level wrong?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
> To: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
>
> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with  
> leaded
> fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110  
> octane, is
> leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............
>
> If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
> Susan's spitfire.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo  
> search features.
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 18:52:58 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:52:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]><006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
	<CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <002201ca10b0$2e3145b0$b6711342@jrg>

Well, it's been an interesting afternoon, both on list and off.

Sounds like putting in a new sensor every season (or two) on an AFR is good
enough, even on a car running leaded gas.

I appreciate the input both on list and off.


Cheers,

Jim

Dallas
Too many Spitfires, not enough time.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:41 PM
To: britbits at netzero.com
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges

O2 sensors get poisoned but it's slow. In a racing engine your rings will
have a shorter life.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 29, 2009, at 1:06 PM, "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.
>
> And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.
>
> I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race 
> car, since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.
>
> Or is my medication level wrong?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
> To: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
>
> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with 
> leaded fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 
> 110 octane, is leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............
>
> If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for 
> Susan's spitfire.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search 
> features.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96h
> sNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul 29 19:05:08 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:05:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:37:44 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:37:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003d01ca10b6$57657680$b6711342@jrg>

So...

AFR is short term (potentially) on leaded cars.  Especially good for
dyno/dial in attempts.

EGT is long term.

Or replace AFR sensors on a regular basis?   Is that what I'm hearing from
those that use them?



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfire(s) 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a quick check
that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and when the car runs
like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, give me something to help
diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put gas in
the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front carb or rear carb
problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the entire rev
range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed the new sensor over
the course of the dyno session - it was a standard single wire one from the
Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 19:37:56 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:37:56 -0600
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>

Now see, this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know 
how to use em. All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em
all. Or maybe a data logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension
telemetry too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback, thanks
Jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:43:01 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:43:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>
Message-ID: <004701ca10b7$1406ccd0$b6711342@jrg>

Jim,

Get a video camera (or digital cam w/ video) and aim it at the gauges.  And
try to remember what you were doing at that point on the course.

I do remember looking at my gauges shortly before # 1 piston melted.  Wish
I'd looked more often.  And understood what they'd told me.  It was all
Smiths at the time so nothing fancy... Just should have taken note of 190+
water temps and shut down sooner.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:38 PM
To: 'Tony Drews'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

Now see, this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know how to use em.
All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em all. Or maybe a data
logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension telemetry too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback, thanks
Jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


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From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:44:40 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:44:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FW: Re:  AFR vs EGT = brain damage (Action Required)
Message-ID: <004801ca10b7$4ef5ed80$b6711342@jrg>

wtf????

  _____  

From: postmaster at boxbe.com [mailto:postmaster at boxbe.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:40 PM
To: Jim
Subject: Re: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage (Action Required)



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From igofaster at charter.net  Wed Jul 29 20:38:08 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:38:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] new email address for Bobby Whitehead
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1245607201.15642.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090729223808.B8WHS.2621875.root@mp18>

Bobby Whitehead.... new email address... please update, I will not have charter in 18 hours...


igofaster at att.net


From stlnyc at msn.com  Wed Jul 29 20:43:40 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:43:40 -0600
Subject: [Fot] aluminum hubs
Message-ID: <BAY104-W49B8FCE3E6E574A680314DA130@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Has anyone ever gotten aluminum front hubs (TR3-6) from Moss Europe?  If so,
I'd like to hear about your opinions/experiences with them.  Suitable for
vintage racers?  Thanks in advance.



Fred Hodgson


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 29 22:16:20 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 21:16:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure
Message-ID: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>

A couple weeks ago at Fontana I shut down the engine after lap 6 of  
the first session of the weekend when my engine started making a  
metallic noise, bad news.
Pulled the pan at the track after much prodding from the guys to find  
the pan full of sparkling metal bits.   just pulled it apart tonight  
and found that the #2 rod bearing is in bad shape.
At first glance, most everything else looks pretty good.  The #2  
piston has slight scuff marks on the skirt and the crank looks good.   
The carillo rods have some dark heat marks near the destroyed bearing  
area.  The spun bearing lost about 3/8" of material at the front end  
and the rest of it is the full width.  In other words, one end is kind  
of pear shaped.

My #3 lifter is hammered too.  We'll see what else I find and I hope  
most of the parts are still good.  I'm sure that many grams of metal  
flakes have pumped there way into every part of the engine, including  
the oil cooler.  After more investigation, I'll see if the spun  
bearing is the culprit or perhaps the result of some other problem.

~Steve


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul 30 04:40:47 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:40:47 GMT
Subject: [Fot] 110 Octane and Sensor on AFR's
Message-ID: <200907300440643.SM07912@[166.70.182.42]>

Thats good to know about the sensor life.  Where in the exhaust header did you
install the bung?

Brad
.
>While that is true the "die" time is very very long with the mileage we
>do racing. I got info from my Auto Meter vendor that it'll last me
>longer than I can race probably. Plus the sensor is very easily replaced
>and considering not terribly expensive either. Now for a street car at
>20,000 miles per year a totally different deal!
>
>Mark Craig
>Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
>411 Allied Drive
>Nashville, TN 37211
>866-455-7788 Phone
>615-834-9923 Fax


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul 30 04:44:17 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:44:17 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Pricing
Message-ID: <200907300444299.SM07912@[166.70.182.42]>

I can vouch for his pricing for the FOT!  It's VERY good!

Thanks!

Brad


>Triumph racers discount always applies. Ask Brad or Susan they'll tell
>you.
>
>
>Mark Craig
>Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
>411 Allied Drive
>Nashville, TN 37211
>866-455-7788 Phone
>615-834-9923 Fax


From jsiam1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul 30 06:20:48 2009
From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 05:20:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Head WTB
Message-ID: <24040438.1248956448049.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi   All  I am looking for a rebuildable TR4 high port head.  Any one have one they can sell.  Thanks   Joe    818 350 6222


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 30 07:22:59 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 06:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] empty trailer
Message-ID: <998707.8883.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Will have an empty open bed 18/ft. trailer heading north from the
Louisville/Lexington, KY area to southeast Wisconsin over Labor Day weekend;
could be persuaded to detour to eastern Iowa.  If you have something you need
hauled contact me off the list to discuss.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie


From EDENMA at aol.com  Thu Jul 30 14:48:19 2009
From: EDENMA at aol.com (EDENMA at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:48:19 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 32, Issue 31
Message-ID: <c81.5662e26c.37a36113@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2009 7:49:11 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

Now see,  this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you  can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know  
how to use em. All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em
all. Or  maybe a data logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension
telemetry  too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback,  thanks
Jg
 
Jim:
 
I have an old Flight Engineer certificate I have not  used in many years 
and you have an extra seat!  I even live close and I'll  work for beer!  (No 
cheap industrial beer though!)  Much cheaper than  a data system if you don't 
mind the weight penalty!
 
Cheers!
 
Mark
62 TR4 #357
64 Spitfire #42





**************Hot Deals at Dell on Popular Laptops perfect for Back to 
School 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223105306x1201716871/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D9)


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Jul 30 18:03:48 2009
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (rkramer3 at austin.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:03:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale, lot's of financial interest,
 please  spread the word.
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE5@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <20090731000348.C3DTN.342492.root@hrndva-web13-z01>

Long story short, I bought a TR4 racecar for my son to race, then found a better one. Soooo I have an TR4 almost a racecar for sale (taking offers) and it is advertised in the VTR Classifieds at:

http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=4277


Here is the info I posted:

This is an interesting car. It is sort of set up for racing. The story is that a fellow named Elmer Peters raced a TR4A in the SCCA. At some point he wrecked the TR4A and converted his solid axle TR4 into a race car by moving over his race parts. I can find no evidence that he ever got this car on the track but maybe it was autocrossed, I don't know. 

For a street car it is in need of restoration but it is what they typically call rust free. There is surface rust on the frame but overall it does not appear to have any body issues. I got it out of Ohio but the car was reportedly from Florida. He took pains to not do anything to the body that was not reversible short of mounting the roll cage, seat and some accessories. Truthfully, this car can go either way, make it a race car or restore it to the original. 

I do not know the original color but it has a racer coat of thin maroon paint on it now. All the body panels are solid and you can see from the pics that they fit pretty well. 

My first impression was that the engine was the stock motor that came with the car but I have recently cleaned out the fuel syetem and replaced the old gas. I drove it yesterday and engine is better than I first thought. The new fuel perked it up and it didn't smoke like it did before I cleaned it out. It may be mildly race prepared as it has quit a bit of pep. The clutch hydraulics are a little weak, maybe needing to be bled again. It has a header a later long branch manifold and early H6 SU's, common for racing but I have the original manifold. It has an overdrive transimission and the rear axle is standard issue open gears (no Detroit Locker or Southwick conversion). The brakes have been rebuilt end to end with new Stainless Steel flexible brake lines and rebuilt cylinders and calipers.

I have a ton of spares that I got with the car including the seats, the old interior. spare differential, windscreen, top frame etc. I can make up a spares package from my other parts to suit the buyers tastes, either street car or race. There are the racing wheels in the pictures and another set of stock steel wheels, I think the hubcaps are in the spares but I can make no guarantees until the stuff is sorted.

I bought this car for my son to race but recently lucked into a better car for him, so this one has to go. 

You can contact me through email :
rkramer at rdoequipment.com or call me at work 512-272-4141 or nights 512-250-9498

The car is located near Austin Texas and I have lots of pictures that I can email you if you are interested. I paid $4500.00 for it but I am motivated to sell because the new TR4 took it's spot in the garage. 


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu Jul 30 19:28:28 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:28:28 -0600
Subject: [Fot] - aluminum hubs
Message-ID: <BAY104-W14B15A7717DA5110B17934DA100@phx.gbl>

Amici-

I'm fully aware of the Southwick hubs.  I was trying to get
information/opinions on these particular hubs.



Fred Hodgson


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 06:29:30 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 06:29:30 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure
In-Reply-To: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>
References: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <931C86DF7812446C8F2EFFBCD505095E@hal9000>

Steve,
That's exactly what happened to me except it was # 3. It turned the rod blue
half way up to the wrist pin. My lifters were ok though.
My rod bearing squeezed out the side and the whole motor was full of
glitter.
All the bearings were toast but there were metal particles throughout
the motor. Some believe the fact I used .040 under bearings was the cause.
I had only one race weekend and some practice time on the motor.
It took out # 3 piston and liner as well and the piston was just starting to
contact the head.
jg


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Belfer
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 10:16 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure

A couple weeks ago at Fontana I shut down the engine after lap 6 of  
the first session of the weekend when my engine started making a  
metallic noise, bad news.
Pulled the pan at the track after much prodding from the guys to find  
the pan full of sparkling metal bits.   just pulled it apart tonight  
and found that the #2 rod bearing is in bad shape.
At first glance, most everything else looks pretty good.  The #2  
piston has slight scuff marks on the skirt and the crank looks good.   
The carillo rods have some dark heat marks near the destroyed bearing  
area.  The spun bearing lost about 3/8" of material at the front end  
and the rest of it is the full width.  In other words, one end is kind  
of pear shaped.

My #3 lifter is hammered too.  We'll see what else I find and I hope  
most of the parts are still good.  I'm sure that many grams of metal  
flakes have pumped there way into every part of the engine, including  
the oil cooler.  After more investigation, I'll see if the spun  
bearing is the culprit or perhaps the result of some other problem.

~Steve
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:15:54 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:15:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
Message-ID: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in WOOD . 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 31 11:28:46 2009
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBE01B7E110715-1714-FFF@WEBMAIL-MY04.sysops.aol.com>

Just a qualified comment:? It appears to?us that the Larry Young cam is perfect for our kind of vintage racing.

Joe A



-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 11:15 am
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two



I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and 
FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it 
with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to 
talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 
pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in 
WOOD . 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Fri Jul 31 11:42:15 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 12:42:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04410EF10D@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I've copied Larry so you can see his address. Larry, did my cores arrive
alive?

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 11:16 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two

I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and
FedX

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it
with the

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to
talk

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores.

Thanx

Jim G

PS

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80
pipe.

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in
WOOD .
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 31 14:28:48 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:28:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <121043.98928.qm@web57611.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

There were comments at the CRClassic website asking for instructions on how to
order shirts and I had indicated that I would post the instruction every few
days, so as a reminder here again are the instructions to order via PayPal.
 
Remember that the deadline for ordering is August 6.  Please do not wait until
the last minute.
 
Thank you,
 
Ernie

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select
Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to
set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Finish the transaction including information in the message
section (located at the very bottom past the "Send Money"
button): indicating:
 
a. What size and quantity shirts you have ordered 
 
b. If you will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your
order shipped to your home; ensure I have a shipping address.
 
c. Then submit order by clicking "Send Money". 
 
You will receive an email confirmation from PayPal that your order has been
sent.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.


From gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 17:41:27 2009
From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:41:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>

One of them broke my brand new unground core in half and it WAS in schedule 80 plastic pipe!? Then the dummies swept up the cam pieces but saved the piece of pipe thinking IT was what I was shipping.? They couldn't see why I wanted $100 for a piece of pipe.? It takes all kinds...

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 9:15 am
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two



I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and 
FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it 
with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to 
talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 
pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in 
WOOD . 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Jul 31 18:05:33 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 18:05:33 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A7386CD.7030905@dfn.com>

gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
> One of them broke my brand new unground core in half and it WAS in schedule 80 plastic pipe!? Then the dummies swept up the cam pieces but saved the piece of pipe thinking IT was what I was shipping.? They couldn't see why I wanted $100 for a piece of pipe.? It takes all kinds...
>
>   

Good thing it was only a cam core, and not a $3500 Taylor guitar:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YGc4zOqozo



Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 11:51:13 2009
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:51:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <f99bbf590907291051qe962451v4d418b003416840a@mail.gmail.com>

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
leaded.  At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
Susan's spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad



On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 1:36 PM, Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <
info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes
> in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at
> one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my
> race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge.
> We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for
> gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant.
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From herald948 at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 13:52:25 2009
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 15:52:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <KAEJIJPKJJCCJMEHJDIIMENCCJAA.davlins@epix.net>
References: <KAEJIJPKJJCCJMEHJDIIMENCCJAA.davlins@epix.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD91D11BE3410-574-176E@mblk-d36.sysops.aol.com>

 I'm afraid I can't help you either way; sorry! I'm more a "small Triumphs" guy. But I'm copying a list of folks who might have some information.

FoT'ers, please make sure to reply to Dave, not me!


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sauter <davlins at epix.net>
To: herald948 at aol.com
Cc: Davlins at Epix.Net <davlins at epix.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2009 12:15 pm
Subject: TR6 Race Car










Good Morning,

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1971 TR6. I am told that the last 10
cars produced in 1971 were race cars. Can you tell me anything about these
and what they might be worth ??

Thank You
David Sauter


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 17:32:51 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 19:32:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2008 SVRA Watkins Glen photos
Message-ID: <673993c50907011632y422ce5baxeff2a4bab54b4791@mail.gmail.com>

I found these online.. photos featuring Triumphs start on page 4.
http://www.chuckcarrollphotography.com/gallery/5937088_GcTME#P-4-24

Bob Adams


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 19:48:10 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 21:48:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2008 SVRA Watkins Glen and other racing photos
Message-ID: <673993c50907011848v1e340f5clfc613afc0bb12002@mail.gmail.com>

I found these sites through searching or on other forums and thought I would
pass them along (most galleries have Triumph photo's).

http://michaeldipleco.smugmug.com/

http://www.prphotographyonline.com/f906572098

http://www.chuckcarrollphotography.com/gallery/5937088_GcTME#369863189_9e4vF

Bob Adams


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 11:50:29 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
Message-ID: <44A09562A2BD41B59433ACA7CAFA283C@Bud>

from craig's list...Los Gatos, ca. ..40 miles south of San francisco
Racer Bud
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1249249036.html


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  2 12:28:20 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:28:20 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
Message-ID: <6247037.1246559300704.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Maybe John Nikas and his 24 hours of lemons class-winning TR7 crew is interested??

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2009 10:50 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Triumph TR-7 Motor
>
>from craig's list...Los Gatos, ca. ..40 miles south of San francisco
>Racer Bud
>http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1249249036.html
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From andre at gt6.ca  Thu Jul  2 20:32:55 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:32:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul  2 21:52:29 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:52:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <29E74DD0D62B49D29D1DC44FD4900496@joepentiumnew>

I don't think I am getting all the posts lately.  I see replies like this
one to posts that I never saw originally posted.  I think Mark has more
problems than just with AOL (which I am not on)!

But I would advise against flat towing a GT6 or Spit.  Even with the
driveshaft disconnected the rear wheels are turning and you would not be
able to hear any problems that might develop from the cab of the tow
vehicle.  The same applies with using a dolly.

The best thing is to get all 4 wheels off the ground.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 7:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 21:53:55 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:53:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C96379429F164795B98702B9EAA2511B@your4dacd0ea75>

I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which ties
the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side. 

I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
wheel...you only don't do this once...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 21:57:40 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:57:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>

Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your wheel
bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any real
problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for a long
time.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com] 
Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which ties
the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side. 

I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
wheel...you only don't do this once...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6

Any thoughts?

I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.

A.
Date: 2009/7/2
Subject: Towing a GT6
To: andre at gt6.ca


Hi Andy,

Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
(all 4 wheels down)?

I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
steering will it track ok?

My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
and how?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Eric

____________________________________________________________
Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Jul  3 00:58:55 2009
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 23:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 1959 TR3A Triumph Street/Track - $8500 (willow glen /
	cambrian)
Message-ID: <4A4DAC2F.4070305@greenheart.com>

Noticed this on craigslist....  --Justin


1959 TR3A Triumph Street/Track - $8500 (willow glen / cambrian)
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1250516255.html


From andre at gt6.ca  Fri Jul  3 05:36:01 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 07:36:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks eveyone.

I'll forward your comments onwards.

For the race car I have been looking for options too.

I'll either go with a dolly;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Friday/slides/IMG_0198.html

or build a super light/simple trailer;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Saturday/slides/IMG_0257.html

But won't need one for a year.

A.

2009/7/2 Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>:
> Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your wheel
> bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any real
> problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for a long
> time.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
> To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The key is to
> take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front which
ties
> the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel which
> was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
> through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side.
>
> I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to the trunk
> lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600 miles. One
> caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
> wheel...you only don't do this once...
>
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
> Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.
>
> A.
> Date: 2009/7/2
> Subject: Towing a GT6
> To: andre at gt6.ca
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
> (all 4 wheels down)?
>
> I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
> steering will it track ok?
>
> My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
> bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
> and how?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental rugs!
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  3 07:52:04 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:52:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Empty trailer OH>PA and back
Message-ID: <BAY123-W51C99AFCEC5D6092066D95BA2C0@phx.gbl>

There is a possibility that I might have an empty car trailer heading from the
TRF area to Northern Ohio Mid to end July and again from Norther Ohio to the
TRF area mid to end of August time frame. Can haul a car if anybody is in
need.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 08:09:31 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 10:09:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090702.142420.27576.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
	<4362ae390907021932t36a69fadp79dfee65736f2a9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<722D900A401A460CAB2D74393AB1C0B4@your4dacd0ea75>
	<4362ae390907030436l46a7cd07hc246d384c244c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <953DB6AB-B3B9-415C-98BD-65B7346D0F58@comcast.net>

I would go with a dual axle trailer even if it is lightweight.  I have  
had three tire blow-outs on my trailer, and am thankful for that  
second wheel/tire to pick up the load.  Make sure you use trailer  
tires  - car tires are not designed for the types of loads and heat  
that a trailer tire encounters.

On Jul 3, 2009, at 7:36 AM, Andre Rousseau wrote:

Thanks eveyone.

I'll forward your comments onwards.

For the race car I have been looking for options too.

I'll either go with a dolly;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Friday/slides/IMG_0198.html

or build a super light/simple trailer;
http://www.gt6.ca/mosport/gallery/09/raw/Saturday/slides/IMG_0257.html

But won't need one for a year.

A.

2009/7/2 Paul MacDonald <macdonaldp at rogers.com>:
> Along the lines of Joe C's email, You want to make sure that your  
> wheel
> bearing are in good shape. I had one fail, but noticed it before any  
> real
> problems happened. It was on an older car that had been sitting for  
> a long
> time.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul MacDonald [mailto:macdonaldp at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 2, 2009 11:54 PM
> To: 'Andre Rousseau'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> I have towed TR8s and lots of MGBs many times with a tow bar. The  
> key is to
> take off the bumper and to have a piece of metal across the front  
> which
ties
> the two bumper mounts together. I used a hat shaped piece of channel  
> which
> was bolted to the bumper mounts, both sides and the tow bar was bolted
> through the metal shape into one of the bumper bolt holes each side.
>
> I also got a set of lights from an RV dealer which suction cup to  
> the trunk
> lid. The longest tow was from Washington DC to Ottawa, about 600  
> miles. One
> caution.....leave the key in the ignition and unlock the steering
> wheel...you only don't do this once...
>
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Andre Rousseau
> Sent: July 2, 2009 10:33 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Towing a GT6
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I guess he could remove the driveshaft, but I suggested a tow dolly.
>
> A.
> Date: 2009/7/2
> Subject: Towing a GT6
> To: andre at gt6.ca
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> Do you have any experience towing a GT6 long distance with a tow bar
> (all 4 wheels down)?
>
> I know to disconnect the drive shaft.  With the rack and pinion
> steering will it track ok?
>
> My main concern, how to connect the towbar to the GT6, is the front
> bumper ok, or do I need to have a bracket made up to bolt to the GT6
> and how?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Turn any room into a work of art. Click now for beautiful oriental  
> rugs!
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  3 12:29:44 2009
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:29:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stuff for sale
Message-ID: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>

First of all, Happy 4th of July to all.  It's because of this we can 
enjoy our cars.  This past May we bought out the collection of TR3/TR4 
parts from the estate of a customer (passed away form cancer).  Very 
little sheet metal and no seats.  But lots of TR3 engines, bare blocks, 
short blocks, long blocks, heads, cranks, liners, etc. We also have TR3 
seat tracks, windshield stanchions, reconditioned TR3 radiators, side 
curtain frames and more.  If you need anything along these lines, please 
ask. Thanks for your time.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From igofaster at charter.net  Fri Jul  3 12:38:24 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 11:38:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>

I bought this real nice race car cable release from Summitt.....   hooked it all up really nice....  checked all the operations... then shut the hood...

HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T DRIVE IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...

Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, lift the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...


HELP!!


Bobby Whitehead


From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 13:07:59 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:07:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
References: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>

if i recall correctly, the headlight removal is the way to go
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 11:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???


>I bought this real nice race car cable release from Summitt.....   hooked 
>it all up really nice....  checked all the operations... then shut the 
>hood...
>
> HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T DRIVE 
> IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...
>
> Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling 
> the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, 
> lift the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...
>
>
> HELP!!
>
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 14:18:26 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 15:18:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
References: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <354a1780907031318oe0f2ecekbe976a7cc357ae67@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 1:38 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at charter.net>wrote:

>
> Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about pulling
> the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from the body, lift
> the hood from the front and then see if I can reach  the lever...



Bobby,

The 6-Pack Club for 250's and TR6's has a forum where stuff like this is
discussed. Here is a link with many suggestions. You should find some help
here.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10184&highlight=hood

Irv Korey
74 TR6 Cf22767U
Highland Park, IL


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jul  3 14:47:46 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 16:47:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
References: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <0KM8001IH4FICQ1D@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

At 02:38 PM 7/3/2009, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>I bought this real nice race car cable release from 
>Summitt.....   hooked it all up really nice....  checked all the 
>operations... then shut the hood...
>
>HOOD WILL NOT RELEASE, PLUS MY BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED.... I CAN'T 
>DRIVE IT, LOST SLEEP OVER THE DELIMA LAST NIGHT...
>
>Is there any access that anyone knows of easy???   I thought about 
>pulling the headlight buckest out and removing the hood latches from 
>the body, lift the hood from the front and then see if I can 
>reach  the lever...

Bobby, I loosened the hinge bolts at the body and was able to raise 
the bonnet leading edge just high enough to reach in with a broom 
handle and trip the release.  Then I bought the emergency release 
hicky from Macy's Garage.  And of course have never had to use it.

jim



>HELP!!
>
>
>Bobby Whitehead
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 


From munsonsb at telus.net  Fri Jul  3 16:06:07 2009
From: munsonsb at telus.net (munsonsb at telus.net)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:06:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <27733341.119576.1246658767615.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edmwes92>



From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Sat Jul  4 12:55:19 2009
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 12:55:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] The Glenwood report
Message-ID: <20090704.125519.3504.1.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

The following has been stuck in administration since 6/26/09, so I'll try
again.

Henry,
Having been involved in some major efforts to get LBC's to and from
Glenwood in years past, I'm impressed and amazed by the accomplishments
on this one.
Bill
____________________________________________________________
Get the sign you need for the impact you want. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOAPbqZJRkdXwqXai3OY80m1EIFmzkMUwbzcbDvzOaDu8YFpdui9y/


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Sat Jul  4 22:19:09 2009
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 14:19:09 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12670.1246630183.20693.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090705041916.MGHD26776.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>

 I am having all sorts of quality problems with "new" trunnions. The ones
the local importers have, are just crap. The core plug at the bottom falls
out, they wont hold grease/oil due to design problems, the caster angle is
machined wrong, and some I screwed onto brand new vertical links, are a
sloppier fit than my 20 year old worn-out ones. 
Is this how they now are???. Does anyone know of a reputable source 
Thanks   Terry O'Beirne, Australia


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 13:10:18 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
Message-ID: <193ADE4CF20F4F969DF3E6115A0F760E@Bud>

----- Original Message -----
From: Rod Leavitt
To: Bud DeLauer
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:55 AM


>From www.musclecarclub.com:


YOU MIGHT BE A RACER IF ...



    * You think the primary purpose of wings is to PREVENT flight.

    * You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses or check
out cars.

    * You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to racing depth
and the wear bars are showing.

    * When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you
just saved.

    * Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you.

    * You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining.

    * You bought a race car before buying a house.

    * You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house.

    * You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture!

    * The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of
importance):

      1) 8 car climate controlled garage with an attached shop.

      2) Outside parking for 6 cars, a motor home, a crew cab dually, a 28'
enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel.

      3) 3 phase 220V outlets in the garage for your welder.

      4) A grease pit.

      5) Deaf neighbors.

      6) Some sort of house with a working toilet & shower on the property -
or - hookups for the motor home.

    * You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make car noises and shift
and practice your heel and toe, while waiting for your motor to get back from
the machine shop.

    * You have enough spare parts to build another car.

    * More than one racer supply store recognizes your voice and greets you by
name when you call.

    * You think the last line of the Star Spangled banner is: "Racers start
your engines!"

    * People know you by your class, car number, and car color.

    * You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped breaker bar
every other week or so.

    * Your family brings the couch into the garage to spend time with you.

    * A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query, "Synthetic or
organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn."

    * You enjoy driving in the rain on the way to work.

    * You always want to change something on your street car to make it handle
better.

    * You've tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix the
air filter on her station wagon.

    * You save broken car parts as "momentous".

    * You've found your lawnmower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but
doesn't particularly care for alcohol).

    * The local police and state highway patrol have a picture of your car
taped to their dashboard.

    * Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have time slips.

    * You quote your street tire wear life in weeks rather than miles.

    * After you tell your wife where you'd like to go on vacation she answers:
"Why...is there a race there?"

    * You know at least three 1-800 numbers to aftermarket parts houses by
heart.

    * You are on a first-name basis with owners of every local speed shop.

    * You want to take apart and rebuild things, even though they are not
broken.

    * You have the monetary equivalent of a lunar rocket invested in it, but
your car still won't cut a good light or run the number.

    * You own a vehicle that has at least 500 horsepower more than when it
came out of Detroit.

    * You look for hi-po cars in the movies and try to guess what engine size,
tire size, and whether or not it has nitrous in it.

    * You are the type of person who goes postal when you have to sit in a
traffic jam for more than five minutes, yet you can spend five hours in the
staging lanes.

    * Every stoplight becomes a practice tree to test your ability to tree the
guy in the other lane's eyes out.

    * You wash your car like it was your firstborn child, you tend to its
needs like it was your own body, you protect it like it's your family, then
you drive it like you stole it.

    * You understand racing is a way of life, not just a means of
transportation.

YOU MIGHT RACE A BUICK IF ...

*Race prepping your car means turning off the ac.

*You have a "Big is Beautiful" license plate holder.

*You have safety harnesses instead of seat belts for five occupants.

*You only have to be careful of traffic AHEAD of you when you merge onto the
Interstate

*Your race car has never been on a trailer.

*You think anything less than a 455 is a small block.

*You won't race motorcycles because it isn't fair . . . to them!

*You've ever had to take a different route because of bridge weight limits.

*You plan road trips from gas station to gas station.

*Your wife's car runs 12s.

*You painted your riding lawnmower black and turbocharged it.

*You think 5000 pound cars and station wagons are great dragstrip material.

*The wrecker service calls you when they get their rigs stuck.

*You have heard the phrase "That's a Buick!? from more than 5 punk kids in
Daddy's 'Vette after you shut them down.

*You have sucked so many bumpers off other cars, your car is nicknamed "The
Hoover."

*18 wheelers yield to you.

*You can fit a month of groceries in your trunk and still run 12s.

*You've ever been pulled over for failing to stop at a weigh station.

*Your car has more towing capacity than a one ton duelie.

*You think every race car should have ac and power windows.

*You get signed thank you cards from the presidents of Phillips 66 and Texaco
at Christmas.

*You think every four door should have a cam, headers and slicks and runs
12s.

*The phrase "231? Is that all?" and "That ain't no V6!" make the hair on the
back of your neck stand up.

*You've said "No, it's not an SS" more than 3 times this week.

*You've never seen the tail lights of a Mustang GT.

*Your friend's 5.0 'Stang runs 13s by being towed behind your car.

*The local Mustang guys are claiming they've been abused because your car
spanks them so bad.

*You've raced your daily driver against a tube frame, blown, nitroused big
block powered 'Stang . . . and won.

By Jason Green, Oklahoma GSCA Chapter




YOU MIGHT HAVE TO MUCH HORSEPOWER IF ...

1. The emissions test guy starts laughing as soon as you pull onto the
rollers.

2. You can't drive your car in the rain.

3. Your 'significant other' is afraid to drive your car.

4. You are afraid to drive your car.

5. You spend more on tires than on food.

6. You spend more on car insurance than on house payments.

7. You look in a state police car and see a picture of your car taped to the
dash.

8. You throw your underwear in the garbage rather than the hamper.

9. You have to go to the track to buy gas.

10. Your mechanic names the new wing of his shop after you.

11. Jacques Villeneuve and Michael Schumacher wave you by.

12. You can make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs.

13. You're tempted to wear your fire suit just to drive to the office.

14. Red signal lights shift to green as you're approaching then shift back to
red as you're receding.

15. You arrive somewhere before you left.

16. You get pulled over for doing 155 in a 35 but the cops will let you go if
"they can look under the hood."

17. You remove the $2000 stereo system to save 6 lb. of weight.

18. You are not allowed to run in the Silver State Challenge.

19. You get an anonymous phone call asking if you are interested in being in
the Cannonball Run.

20. Your face looks like you are riding a NASA centrifuge when you drive the
car.

22. You need parachute braking.

23. Your 'significant other' won't even ride in the car.

24. There is no possible way to "sneak out" of your neighborhood at 6 am.

25. Your pets scramble for their hiding spots as soon as the garage door is
opened. (Pets, and all the neighbors...)

26. Family photos throughout the house are replaced with life-sized posters of
your car.

27. Fuel is delivered to your home: in 55 gallon drums!

28. You carry earplugs in your car.(doesn't everybody???)

29. The only spot on the car which receives any regular cleaning is the
windshield. (what else is there to clean???)

30. You find out that side mirrors don't hold up at speeds exceeding 145 mph.

31. Young children cling to their mommies in fear when you round the corner.

32. Birds fall out of their nests from the rumble of your 5" dual exhaust.

33. All the major Tire makers are sending you free slicks in hopes of
endorsement deal.

34. The UPS guy took to taking Steroids so he could keep up with your
shipments.

35. The Fed Ex guy had a nervous breakdown.

36. All the wildlife within a 800ft radius around your house got the HELLOUT.

37. The nearest Geological Seismic Surveying Station Operator knows your
address by heart.

38. A booming voice greets potential passengers with, "That's right ....you
paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the EDGE.

39. The earth slows in rotation when you hook up on your new slicks and head
east.

40. You have to screw your slicks to the wheels.

41. Your exhaust pipes are larger in diameter than your driveline.

42. Your fuel pump flows enough to water a golf course.

43. Your compression's high enough you could run diesel fuel.

44. The sparks from your wheelie bars start grass fires on the side of the
road.

45. Your engine idles at 2800 rpm.

46. You measure the fuel you use in "gallons per mile."


From niteseeker at mac.com  Sun Jul  5 17:14:11 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 18:14:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
References: <5258A8EE-E3F8-48C9-9F59-5C167A43E25A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <62862647-53E6-4EF8-8894-5659BD9F106C@mac.com>

Begin forwarded message:

> From: dick ross <niteseeker at aol.com>
> Date: July 5, 2009 5:39:27 PM CDT
> To: triumph club club <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FUNNY STUFF ABOUT RACERS
>
> Now I know what I was missing having the AOL address and not getting  
> a Triumph fix every so often.   I thought everyone was too busy to  
> write anything.  New mail address fixed it all.


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Jul  5 19:39:09 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 21:39:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions
References: <20090705041916.MGHD26776.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>
Message-ID: <002201c9fdda$8ff9cb20$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  G'day mate from Erie, PA.
  I bought new trunnions last year from  the Roadster Factory and they
seemed very good quality parts.

  No financial interest.

  Good luck, Bill----- Original Message -----
  From: "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 front trunnions


  > I am having all sorts of quality problems with "new" trunnions. The ones
  > the local importers have, are just crap. The core plug at the bottom
falls
  > out, they wont hold grease/oil due to design problems, the caster angle
is
  > machined wrong, and some I screwed onto brand new vertical links, are a
  > sloppier fit than my 20 year old worn-out ones.
  > Is this how they now are???. Does anyone know of a reputable source
  > Thanks   Terry O'Beirne, Australia
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Jul  5 20:33:49 2009
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 19:33:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Request for help
Message-ID: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Group: I hope everyone had a good and safe July fourth and that everyone still
has all their fingers (seriously).
I received the following email from Andy Granatelli over the holiday. I know
it is a shot in the dark, but perhaps with all the experience and worldliness
in the group, someone may be able to help him. If you know of the location of
any of his "stuff" feel free to email he or I. Please, do not just email him
for fun..he is a man who really treasures his privacy.
Thanks in advance - Ed  
 
 
Ed:
 
I am looking for the following items for my Hall of Fame Museum, which will
open late this year in Auburn, Indiana. I need information on anything speed
equipment or cars built by Grancor Automotive Specialists (Granatelli
Corporation) like Ford Flathead motors, heads, manifolds, etc. Also, looking
for any racecars I owned or built, including Indy cars, street rods,
Bonneville cars or a Fordillac. I would like to have any information on the
whereabouts of any of the above. I will consider a loan, a donation or I will
purchase the items. No matter what, I would like to know what's out there.

Contact Andy at mrindy500 at yahoo. com. Thank you. Andy Granatelli


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul  5 23:17:59 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 07:17:59 +0200
Subject: [Fot] CSCC Race At Spa
In-Reply-To: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAIX9IOLDBzpMpr6Rlx1YK7wBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Maybe you might be interested in watching a race at Spa made last weekend.

http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5355089330593825922

Cheers
Chris


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul  6 06:09:00 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:09:00 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video practice Spa: Porsches for breakfast
In-Reply-To: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <274149.68160.qm@web81205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAH5P7xu6lXFAiEgEOt9ctT8BAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5355313714895278418

Cheers
Chris


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul  6 07:53:07 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 09:53:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] hood release for TR6 ???
In-Reply-To: <1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>
References: <20090703143824.GPATZ.1252629.root@mp14>
	<1AF9A66BEB544CCD992F90C6CAEEFDBC@Bud>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907060945040.16206@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 3 Jul 2009, RACER BUD wrote:

> if i recall correctly, the headlight removal is the way to go

I've not read this whole thread, but there's no way to get to the bonnet 
release on TR6 through the headlight bucket.

_IF_ you can get the starter out of the way, you can reach up to the latch 
with a screwdriver or pry bar. The side of the latch assy. that faces away 
from the driver has a little tab that you flick to release the latch.

Going in from the front is tougher as you have to sacrifice "something" to 
get there. Just removing the hinges is not going to gain you much as 
you'll probably bend the bonnet near the rear edge if you relase the 
hinges and then pry up.

That said, if you can get access from the front, getting a hook around the 
previously mention tab will do the trick. pull the tab toward the front of 
the car.

There are a LOT of TR6 web sites with the famous remote bonnet releast 
diagrammed. Use that to see what I'm describing.

regards,
rml

p.s. BTDT with the failed cable thingie. Just before tech at an autocross. 
By complete serendipity, got it open, but that was partially due to fact 
that I had started to install the remote release thingie. Boy, was I 
lucky! I was one cable pull away from going through what Bobby W. is going 
though. Whew!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 15:11:33 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
Message-ID: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>

Check this out Gang.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: RACER BUD
To: RACER BUD
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:06 PM



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKqpvriKZuA


From greenman62 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 16:02:52 2009
From: greenman62 at hotmail.com (greenman62 at hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:02:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
In-Reply-To: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>
References: <4FA6A9B208F64DDEA7FEB708F434B65A@Bud>
Message-ID: <SNT111-W49898B326DA0D300A7AEB2D22B0@phx.gbl>

THAT'S hysterical!

Greg Petrolati   Lafayette, Oregon



That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory...







> From: budscars at comcast.net
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
> Subject: [Fot] NORTON TRANSFORMER..really cool
>
> Check this out Gang.
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RACER BUD
> To: RACER BUD
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 2:06 PM
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKqpvriKZuA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From andre at gt6.ca  Mon Jul  6 20:25:14 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: 1968 Triumph GT6
References: <1966333622-1246933348-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2047016800-@bxe1200.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <E2591BEF-2F20-4257-88B5-F9894A7480EA@gt6.ca>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Triumph-GT6-cool-resto-project-19-pics_W0
QQitemZ190318409860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2c4fdc7884&_trk
sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1#ht_10231wt_928

Can anyone help Rodney and look over the MK1.

Looks solid, but no under side shots.

Thanks.

A.


Begin forwarded message:

> From: "RW - Movie Car Mania" <rw at moviecarmania.com>
> Date: July 6, 2009 10:22:28 PM GMT-04:00
> To: "Andre Rousseau" <andre at gt6.ca>
> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
> Reply-To: rw at moviecarmania.com
>
> Wow that would be great. Thanks again.
> RW - www.MovieCarMania.com
>
>
> From: Andre Rousseau
> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:14:52 -0400
> To: <rw at moviecarmania.com>
> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
>
> I could enquire among my TR friends.
>
> A.
>
> On 6-Jul-09, at 10:05 PM, RW - Movie Car Mania wrote:
>
>> Thanks for your help will let you know if I am able to get it. One
>> major consideration is that the car is 2000 miles away so I can't
>> look at it in person.
>> Rodney
>> RW - www.MovieCarMania.com
>>
>>
>> From: Andre Rousseau
>> Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:54:07 -0400
>> To: RW<RW at moviecarmania.com>
>> Subject: Re: 1968 Triumph GT6
>>
>> Ok from the photos looks solid.
>>
>> I'd want too see the floors and sills.
>>
>> Its a later MK1 which is nice.
>> Engine bay looks complete, but is a mess.
>> Seats look custom. Red with black.
>> Has an Overdrive.
>> All the glass.
>> Battery box looks good, almost no rust.
>>
>> ITS IS NOT A MK1 ENGINE. That's not a show stopper and have some
>> good points, but not original.
>>
>> I'd buy it mate.
>>
>>
>> A.
>>
>> On 6-Jul-09, at 9:34 PM, RW wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Andre,
>>> I came across your site through the Vintage Triumph Registry.  I
>>> like what youve done to your 1968 GT6. I am looking at a few
>>> British cars so that I can get a project car to restore.  I am
>>> looking at Triumph GT6s. I would love your feedback on the
>>> attached car.  From the photos and description, what do you think
>>> of this car as a project? What are some of the questions I should
>>> ask?  Thanks for your time and help.
>>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Triumph-GT6-cool-resto-project-19-pics_W0
QQitemZ190318409860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2c4fdc7884&_trk
sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7
>>> |39%3A1
>>>
>>> Rodney Wren  www.MovieCarMania.com
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
>> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
>> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
>> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>

--
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 22:09:17 2009
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:09:17 -0700
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
Message-ID: <000001c9feb8$b2d06850$187138f0$@racer@comcast.net>

Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk

 

Gary


From budscars at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 22:21:26 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:21:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
References: <000001c9feb8$b2d06850$187138f0$@racer@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A87BC5B4C2F4539AB92DC16840E303C@Bud>

TERRIFIC!....GLADIATOR STUFF!
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Horstkorta" <vintage.racer at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 9:09 PM
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans


> Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk
> 
> 
> 
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From andre at gt6.ca  Tue Jul  7 06:02:39 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 08:02:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] McQueen - Porsche - Hamilton - Mclaren - LeMans
In-Reply-To: <-2464984407369905180@unknownmsgid>
References: <-2464984407369905180@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907070502h159a6d11h6b816da59e88b965@mail.gmail.com>

Nasty.

A.

-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


2009/7/7 Gary Horstkorta <vintage.racer at comcast.net>:
> Neat short video - Lewis Hamilton vs Steve McQueen in "LeMans".
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU-F5hl8_Mk
>
>
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  7 09:07:45 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:07:45 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Triumph Wheel Spacers-Available
Message-ID: <ce1.4f345d97.3784bec1@cs.com>

List,

For those of you who asked or are in need....We ran 100 aluminum wheel 
spacers for the TR bolt circle.  .250 thickness.

Specific to Triumph for:

Wider track
Caliper to wheel clearance
Wire wheel conversion

Contact me for FOT pricing.

Thanks...Joe Alexander


From BillB at bnj.com  Tue Jul  7 13:55:25 2009
From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:55:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Shirt Orders
In-Reply-To: <91560.98894.qm@web57612.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <91560.98894.qm@web57612.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9A41C8BD-9F45-4E08-B73C-D9BFF871A44D@bnj.com>

Ernie,
You might consider setting up a paypal account. It's easy to do, and  
anyone that has a credit card can make a payment to you without  
hassle. Just add the fee into the purchase price and it all comes out  
cleanly. You can pay the shirt company directly from the same account.

On Jul 7, 2009, at 11:14 AM, Ernest Husmann wrote:

> Joe:
>
> I beleive in the past there were arrangements for people to make  
> payment at the time they ordered their shirts/t-shirts/hats; such as  
> taking credit card payments.  I could possibly handle checks but I  
> guess most people will want to use credit cards.  I figure I would  
> add a dollar or two to cover the credit card companies take with  
> left over funds going to the FOT treasury.
>
> Also, in the past people had the option of having their orders  
> shipped to them or picking the items up at the event.  I could  
> handle the shipping part but as I won't be at PIR I'll have to find  
> a volunteer.  If Bill is agreeable I could have items for event  
> pickup shipped to him and I could get Irv Korey and one other kind  
> soul to volunteer for distribution at the track.
>
> Bottom line I suspect everything should be paid for at the time of  
> order.  I don't like chasing people for money; aggrevates me very  
> quickly.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> If this project works out well I might just volunteer to do the  
> shirt design for 2010 as well.
>
>
> --- On Tue, 7/7/09, N197TR4 at cs.com <N197TR4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> Subject: Re: Shirt Orders
> To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com, BillB at bnj.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 11:17 AM
>
> Ernie,
>
> Thanks for doing this....this is usually far more time consuming  
> that people often realize.  I have no suggestions on 'payments.
>
> Do you mean initial outlay of cash for the shirts?
>
> I have some FOT money in the till, but would not want to collect  
> money for the shirts.
>
> Joe
>
>
>> Gentlemen:
>>
>> A few minor changes are being made to the Kastner Cup shirt  
>> design.  I hope by the end of the week to have the designs out for  
>> quotes and shortly thereafter begin taking orders.
>>
>> While I can keep track of who ordered what, I am unable to handle  
>> payment arrangements.  Any suggestions?


From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Wed Jul  8 07:05:51 2009
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 09:05:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
Message-ID: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>

Hi Mark

Looks like Mike was missed when adding people to the list. He was nominated
and seconded a while ago.

Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Deweerd [mailto:deweerdm at rogers.com] 
Sent: July 8, 2009 6:37 AM
To: Paul MacDonald
Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk race last weekend (video link too)

Thanks for the footage Paul
I'm still waiting for an invite to FOT.....ok maybe I'm being a little 
impatient,  but I'm eager to learn about how to get my car running better 
and of coarse faster.
I've just purchased a mgb dist. cap and new 8mm wires for the car and was 
wondering if the rotor has to be changed to or if the tr4 rotor is the same 
..mine is new.
also wondering what tire size of Hoosier speedster tires are guys running 
....I'd like to purchase a set for next season.
Thanks
Mike


From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed Jul  8 14:02:35 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:02:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Just a trial balloon...
Message-ID: <4A54FB5B.40404@dfn.com>

... for the moment.

I'm reaching the point where I have to decide about surviving into 
retirement or keeping up with a hobby I can't afford.  I never made much 
money when I was working, and was laid off, more or less permanently, at 
the age of 56.  The company for which I last worked failed, started, 
failed again, started again, then failed yet again and is still in 
bankruptcy.  That work was the only reason why I stayed where I am, and 
I've been able to work a little over three months for them in the last 
nearly six years.  I have a very small house which I can't sell, and I 
have no space left in which to do any real work toward getting cars 
done, and have lots of stuff eating up money sitting in storage.  I'm 
pretty much going to have to live on abbreviated Social Security and the 
crunch has finally come.

So, I'm thinking about disposing of everything mechanical so I can find 
a place to retire in which I'd be more comfortable, but, obviously, I 
can't do that unless I can dispose of most everything that's an anchor 
keeping me here.

So, I'm putting up everything for sale, with the proviso that I've got 
to get guarantees from buyers for virtually everything for sale before I 
commit to selling.  Doesn't make sense to be tied to this location 
because some percentage of the total can't be unloaded at a reasonable 
price.   Many items were put in storage because of the local code 
nazis.  I'll provide plenty of detail and asking prices upon request.  
Here's the abbreviated inventory list:

Triiumphs, in no particular order.

1971 GT6
1980 TR7
1966? TR4A IRS
1964 TR4
1970 GT6

Miscellany:

1986 Nissan 300ZX
1986 Nissan 300ZX (no, that's not a stutter on the enter key).
1970-or so Bridgeport vertical milling machine, 42" table, 3-phase, 5 hp 
drive, ways are not perfect, but serviceable.
Enco 9x27 lathe--good for small items and about twenty years old, with 
only occasional use.
P&H 3-phase 400A Tig/Stick welder.  A fuckin' brute.  800 lbs of iron 
and copper, with a set of casters installed by a pretend engineer.  
Somewhat of an effort to move around. Virtually antique spark-gap 
high-voltage generator for Tig work, but, hey, it does the job. Just 
needs water plumbing, foot pedal, a torch and a flowmeter/gas supply. 
Downside--can't do aluminum welding very well--DC only in Tig mode and 
no HV AC.  Very, very good for carbon and stainless steel, though.  I 
built _large_ experimental machines for the coal processing industry 
with this welder.

A real challenge--1968 VW camper, with a 1756cc Lancia twincam which I 
installed, oh, about 25 years ago.  After ten years of hard use, I put 
full synthetic oil in it and the old, tired engine almost immediately 
shit the bed because of not enough oil pressure as the oil too easily 
ran out of the worn mains.  Complete, right down to a worn red-leather 
driver's seat from the Lancia and a side-mounted radiator and 40DCOEs on 
a homemade manifold.  Upgraded to `72 front disc brakes, `72 rear hubs 
and 14" stud-mounted rims.  Body, despite being refurbished in `87, 
shows the effects of years on Michigan and Massachusetts salted roads.

Misc. spare parts--used A-Type TR4 trans/OD, half-assed rusted GT6 trans 
w/OD shaft, and a disassembled OD with freshly-lined sliding member, a 
few (I think) good synchros, stuff like that.

Oxy/acetylene tanks (B size), no certification available since I 
purchased them myself three decades ago.  If that's cool with your state 
and local gas supplier, go fer `em. My local suppliers verified 
compliance at the last fill--many years ago.

As one might expect, I can't fit all that into an 11 x 16 garage and get 
anything done.  I expected to work until I was 66 and save the cash for 
a little place in the country with a nice-sized shop, but it was not to be.

Details-as expansive as required--upon request.


Cheers.


















-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed Jul  8 14:16:39 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:16:39 -0600
Subject: [Fot] This got kicked for too many bytes for some lists, so...
Message-ID: <4A54FEA7.4020508@dfn.com>

... a repeat with abbreviations, and apologies if it's a duplication:
This is a trial balloon... for the moment.

I'm reaching the point where I have to decide about surviving into 
retirement or keeping up with a hobby I can't afford.  I never made much 
money when I was working, and was laid off, more or less permanently, at 
the age of 56.  I tried to buy decent cars cheap with the expectation of 
having time and money to make them better later.  The company for which 
I last worked failed and is still in bankruptcy.  That work was the only 
reason why I stayed where I am, and I've worked for them three months in 
the last nearly six years.  I have a very small house which I can't 
sell, and I have no space in which to do any work toward getting cars 
done, and have stuff eating up money sitting in storage.  I'm going to 
have to live on abbreviated Social Security and the crunch has finally 
come.

So, I'm thinking about disposing of everything mechanical so I can find 
a place to retire I'd like better, but, obviously, I can't do that 
unless I can dispose of  everything that's an anchor.

So, I'm putting up everything for sale, with the proviso that I've got 
to get guarantees from buyers for virtually everything for sale before I 
commit to selling.  Doesn't make sense to take a big loss and still be 
tied to this location because some percentage of the total can't be 
unloaded at a reasonable price.  I'll provide plenty of detail and 
asking prices upon request.  Here's the abbreviated inventory list:
Triiumphs, in no particular order.
1971 GT6
1980 TR7
1966? TR4A IRS
1964 TR4
1970 GT6
Miscellany:
1986 Nissan 300ZX
1986 Nissan 300ZX (no, that's not a stutter on the enter key).
1970-or so Bridgeport vertical milling machine, 42" table, 3-phase, 5 hp 
drive, ways are not perfect, but serviceable.
Enco 9x27 lathe--good for small items and about twenty years old, with 
only occasional use.
P&H 3-phase 400A Tig/Stick welder.  A fuckin' brute.  800 lbs of iron 
and copper, with a set of casters installed by a pretend engineer.  
Somewhat of an effort to move around. Antique spark-gap high-voltage 
generator for Tig work, but, hey, it does the job. Needs water plumbing, 
foot pedal, a torch and a flowmeter/gas supply. Downside--can't do 
aluminum welding very well--DC only in Tig mode and no HV AC.  Very good 
for carbon and stainless steel, though.  I built _large_ experimental 
machines for the coal processing industry with this welder.

A real challenge--1968 VW camper, with a 1756cc Lancia twincam 
installed, oh, about 25 years ago.  After ten years of hard use, I put 
full synthetic oil in it and the old, tired engine almost immediately 
shit the bed because of not enough oil pressure as the oil too easily 
ran out of the worn mains.  Complete, right down to a worn red-leather 
driver's seat, a side-mounted radiator and 40DCOEs on a homemade 
manifold.  Upgraded to `72 front disc brakes, `72 rear hubs and 14" 
stud-mounted rims.  Body, despite being refurbished in `87, shows the 
effects of years on Michigan and Massachusetts salted roads.

Misc. spare parts--used A-Type TR4 trans/OD, half-assed rusted GT6 trans 
w/OD shaft, and a disassembled OD with freshly-lined sliding member, a 
few (I think) good synchros, stuff like that.

Oxy/acetylene tanks (B size), no certification available since I 
purchased them three decades ago.  If that's cool with your state and 
local gas supplier, go fer `em. My local suppliers verified compliance 
at the last fill--many years ago.

As one might expect, I can't fit all that into an 11 x 16 garage and get 
anything done.  I expected to work until I was 66 and save the cash for 
a little place in the country with a nice-sized shop, but it was not to 
be.  Details-as expansive as required--upon request.

Cheers.















-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Wed Jul  8 18:04:35 2009
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 19:04:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>

Yes, someone please enl9ighten me how a new member actually gets added.

I've nominated a couple, they've been seconded, all well and good. But by 
what process do they actually begin receiving FOT traffic and become enabled 
to participate?

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul MacDonald" <macdonaldp at rogers.com>
To: "Fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <deweerdm at rogers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 8:05 AM
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list


> Hi Mark
>
> Looks like Mike was missed when adding people to the list. He was 
> nominated
> and seconded a while ago.
>
> Thanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Deweerd [mailto:deweerdm at rogers.com]
> Sent: July 8, 2009 6:37 AM
> To: Paul MacDonald
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk race last weekend (video link too)
>
> Thanks for the footage Paul
> I'm still waiting for an invite to FOT.....ok maybe I'm being a little
> impatient,  but I'm eager to learn about how to get my car running better
> and of coarse faster.
> I've just purchased a mgb dist. cap and new 8mm wires for the car and was
> wondering if the rotor has to be changed to or if the tr4 rotor is the 
> same
> ..mine is new.
> also wondering what tire size of Hoosier speedster tires are guys running
> ....I'd like to purchase a set for next season.
> Thanks
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 18:37:46 2009
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 20:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
In-Reply-To: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
	<7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
Message-ID: <011901ca002d$7b834810$7289d830$@com>

Go to the link at the end of each FOT email and enter the new person so that
all Mark needs to do is ok the membership. You can choose password, digest,
etc. in advance. Otherwise Mark must enter all the data and that is a bit of
work.
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
Clark


From stlnyc at msn.com  Wed Jul  8 21:03:54 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:03:54 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing
Message-ID: <BAY104-W49980A75398EC541062EFEDA260@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Does anyone have a spec sheet or the ratios for the early close ratio gear
sets for a TR4-6 gearbox?  This would be the set with the 1", 10 spline input
shaft.  Thanks in advance.



Fred Hodgson


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 21:09:21 2009
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:09:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing
References: <BAY104-W49980A75398EC541062EFEDA260@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1507785973B64E2CA89AFAA5E7537BD1@bob44f854f0e85>

Check out:

http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6drivetrain.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred & Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc at msn.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 10:03 PM
Subject: [Fot] Close ratio gearing


> Amici-
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a spec sheet or the ratios for the early close ratio gear
> sets for a TR4-6 gearbox?  This would be the set with the 1", 10 spline 
> input
> shaft.  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Fred Hodgson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 23:29:32 2009
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:29:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>

How should one put oil in  the rear stock lever shock on a TR6?  How
much? [too much makes the shock not work it seems].
Anybody use 75-90 weight Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in them?

-- 
Chuck Arnold


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  9 01:14:22 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 01:14:22 -0600
Subject: [Fot] New Member to list
In-Reply-To: <7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
References: <75F1B30E59E14C938BECED095715E2CB@your4dacd0ea75>
	<7405EBA6D1214E4FAC5B7BB468F5395B@rocky>
Message-ID: <4A5598CE.8000404@bradakis.com>

A couple of things to keep in mind:

I do this in my spare time, as I get around to it.  Sure, if all of the 
Team.Net
subscribers to all the various lists would ante up 5 or 10 bucks a year for
each of their subscriptions, or if everyone would click on one or two of the
Google ads on the archive pages, etc. every day, I'd have enough income to
make Team.Net a full time job.  Such is not the case, sad to say.

To add an email address to the list of FOT email addresses, I need the
email address to add.  This is so blatently obvious, you'd think it would
be blatently obvious.

mjb.


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Jul  9 07:37:59 2009
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 06:37:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>

Chuck, I believe that the shocks have to be full to work properly.  You may 
be using to thick of an oil and the shock may not be moving at all.
Tony Garmey has a shock dyno and can help you to make adjustments on it, 
mostly with oil viscosity.
I tried a heavy duty shock valve from Moss and the valve did worse 
performance than the stock valve.
Some have done their own modifications to the valve with great success. 
There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World 
Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>; "Triumph" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 10:29 PM
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?


> How should one put oil in  the rear stock lever shock on a TR6?  How
> much? [too much makes the shock not work it seems].
> Anybody use 75-90 weight Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in them?
>
> -- 
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From emanteno at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 07:56:55 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:56:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
Message-ID: <354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Charly Mitchel
<charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:

> There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World
> Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.



Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts of Madison (WI) has his own lever
shock rebuilding operation. He also has designed and produced externally
adjustable levers for TR's. I'm sure Peter would be happy to answer your
shock filling and other performance questions. In fact, he says so on his
website:

http://www.nosimport.com/

NFI

Irv Korey


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 12:02:27 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 11:02:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Granatelli request
Message-ID: <151646.10282.qm@web57616.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Recently someone posted a message that Andy Granatelli was searching for
pieces to place in his museum.  I work with someone who goes way back in
dirt track/sprint car racing who may know some people who would have items of
possible interest.
 
Could whoever sent that message please forward the message to me again so that
I might pass it along.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie


From niteseeker at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 21:46:27 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] iola
References: <D29F2A77-DC7D-4D5F-8908-830EF12FDF91@aol.com>
Message-ID: <299AC3C8-96E3-49FA-9A86-BE41E41BA86A@mac.com>

> Will there be anyone from the list at Iola this weekend?
> Browsers or sellers.
> thanks
> Dick


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu Jul  9 20:58:32 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 20:58:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] close ratio gears
Message-ID: <BAY104-W23BDB631DC019FA849E297DA270@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Thanks to all who responded.



Fred Hodgson


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul  9 21:36:28 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:36:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com
  >
References: <8cbd782d0907082229l2a7c25eer21c2db085316d0d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4B8A0FED5C64E6DADE9896379F2DA6F@desktop>
	<354a1780907090656o7c0abdabx9e9f77fffb8fcefc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>

Uncle jack had a set of the adjustable shocks on his car.  I believe 
that he worked with Peter to get the location of the adjustment valve 
where it wouldn't interfere with the normal mounting.  Very cool.

- Tony

At 08:56 AM 7/9/2009, Irv Korey wrote:
>On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Charly Mitchel
><charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:
>
> > There is also an adjustable valve out there somewhere, I think it was World
> > Wide Shocks or something like that in the mid west.
>
>
>
>Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts of Madison (WI) has his own lever
>shock rebuilding operation. He also has designed and produced externally
>adjustable levers for TR's. I'm sure Peter would be happy to answer your
>shock filling and other performance questions. In fact, he says so on his
>website:
>
>http://www.nosimport.com/
>
>NFI
>
>Irv Korey


From niteseeker at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 21:24:38 2009
From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:24:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] iola
References: <D29F2A77-DC7D-4D5F-8908-830EF12FDF91@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EBEEC2D0-7510-48DD-909B-D66ACA03E4BD@mac.com>

> Will there be anyone from the list at Iola this weekend?
> Browsers or sellers.
> thanks
> Dick


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 10 10:04:23 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:04:23 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <be1.5eb6ee3a.3788c087@cs.com>

List:

I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have no 
personal history with this car)

It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.

The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position bolt 
circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)

....anyone familiar with this?

We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)

Joe Alexander


From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 10 10:16:51 2009
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (CHIP COLLINGWOOD)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:16:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <380-220097510161651382@earthlink.net>

Joe,

Sounds like a jaguar setup. That is the current setup allowed on the TR6
for SCCA and what Fletcher adapted to my car before I ran it. Good but a
bit heavy and now outdated.

Chip Collingwood
TR6
510



> [Original Message]
> From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Date: 7/10/2009 12:05:18 PM
> Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
>
> List:
>
> I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have
no 
> personal history with this car)
>
> It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.
>
> The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position
bolt 
> circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)
>
> ....anyone familiar with this?
>
> We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)
>
> Joe Alexander
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 11:52:35 2009
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:52:35 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <d28.4b3cc729.3788d9e3@aol.com>

In a message dated 07/10/2009 12:34:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
N197TR4 at cs.com writes:


> We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)
> 

Sure sounds like they'd work, but you did say, "Vintage", right?

Must be a very rare TR3.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)


From Herald948 at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 13:37:50 2009
From: Herald948 at aol.com (Herald948 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:37:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <bc9.5009c3b5.3788f28e@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/10/2009 1:34:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
N197TR4 at cs.com writes:

It is a  THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper  bracket.
Joe, front caliper from a Volvo 122 sticks in my mind. I vaguely remember  
working on my neighbor's 122 many, many years ago and being struck by the  
peculiarity of such a caliper; I was used to a typical Triumph caliper with 
two  pistons or a typical Volvo 144 front caliper with four pistons (all 
Girling)!  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Fri Jul 10 16:27:44 2009
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 22:27:44 GMT
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Message-ID: <20090710.182744.14958.0@webmail01.dca.untd.com>

Sounds like the Jaguar calipers that I have on my car.  The Jag rotors are
vented and were originally 5 bolt.  The calipers have 3.5 inch mounting ears
thus bolt on to TR3-6s.  In SCCA the jag calipers are the way to go up front,
until they allow aftermarket ones.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] MYSTERY CALIPERS-HELP!
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:04:23 EDT

List:

I have a pair of calipers adapted to "race car since new" TR250. (I have no
personal history with this car)

It is a THREE POT CALIPER bolted to the existing the caliper bracket.

The caliper wraps itself around VENTILATED ROTORS with a five position bolt
circle modified to four position....same bolt circle diameter.  (Jaguar?)

....anyone familiar with this?

We are evaluating this set up for use on a Listers Vintage Racer  (TR3)

Joe Alexander
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
____________________________________________________________
Get your dream car or truck. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxXBkAOCb70MmL10IxWCqa9QA
e0KBkexAARZTJJG3Hm15C5d2FBox6/


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Sat Jul 11 06:08:49 2009
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 06:08:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] My old Triumph
Message-ID: <BLU116-W26C0C9137E99667CFA510790240@phx.gbl>

There is a familiar face on page 43 of this month's Victory Lane.  My old TR3
driven by Jeff Schur at Lime Rock.



Cheers Henry Morrison, Albuquerque


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat Jul 11 09:42:03 2009
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 10:42:03 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
References: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>

I had to smile when I read this and remembered my dad telling me "just 
run STP in the rear shocks". This is how I learned how to drive the car 
over the 40 some years I have been driving it. I still run it that way 
frankly with the STP he put in the shocks "just because" although the 
valves have probably compensated over the years and miles. I have new 
shocks in my stash but never felt the need to change anything - I know 
the car so well as it is and I like the balance. I will tell you that 
its getting tough crossing railroad tracks at speed in my old age...

I am quite sure that there are more enlightened thought process since 
the late '50s and early '60s when my dad raced my TR3 so I am not 
suggesting this as a course of action. In fact in my TR6, the first 
thing I did was design and fabricate a bolt-in (stock mount points) 
conversion to Koni's...

Best to all...

M


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 09:24:26 2009
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:24:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <4A5A002A.30203@cfl.rr.com>

All,

Please second the nomination of Steve Clements to the roster. He is a 
TR6 racer in the northeast and runs a business of buying and selling 
new, NLA and obsolete Brit car parts. Good addition to the list if you 
are restoring something.

Bob
1957 TR3 racer in progress


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Sun Jul 12 15:53:34 2009
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:53:34 +1000
Subject: [Fot] mystery calipers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1247335201.15493.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090712215333.GQPA1990.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01>

The 3 piston calipers are most likely Rover 3500 P6B

Terry O'Beirne


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 06:59:00 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:59:00 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers +
 WARNING
Message-ID: <bbf.534c6a00.378c8994@cs.com>

Lots of replies. Thanks!

Concensus seems to be that 3 and 4 pot Jaguar Calipers were used 
successfully with Jaguar Vented Rotors on Triumphs.

A frequently conversion on the TR250 and the TR6, but can be retrofitted to 
TR3 & TR4.

The three pot calipers may have been used on other applications such as 
Rover & Volvo...which would be no surprise.

Another question would be if 'race' quality pads are available.....

Thanks, Joe Alexander

PS:  This is not for me, but perhaps something to consider if the 
conversion is simpler and represents additional safety.  

PPS: I put the Toyota conversion on the AMBRO. TOYOTA CALIPERS appear to be 
a proven configuration, but I DISCOVERED THAT IN SOME CASES THE FLEX LINE 
CAN BE POSITIONED SO IT HAS INTERFERENCE  DURING THE FULL RANGE OF MOTION OF 
STEERING AND VERTICAL MOTION. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT THIS COULD BE MISSED 
DURING INSTALLATION.  


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 13 08:23:31 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:23:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lever shock oil volume?
In-Reply-To: <4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>
References: <20090710070527.6AFD1187A85@autox.team.net>
	<4A58B2CB.5020009@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907131023040.29320@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009, Mark Eginton wrote:

> I am quite sure that there are more enlightened thought process since the 
> late '50s and early '60s when my dad raced my TR3 so I am not suggesting this 
> as a course of action. In fact in my TR6, the first thing I did was design 
> and fabricate a bolt-in (stock mount points) conversion to Koni's...

Care to share?

Do you have pix?

> Best to all...
>
> M

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jul 13 11:27:05 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:27:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
Message-ID: <c95.46ba39e1.378cc869@aol.com>

Anyone going to Cal Speedway next weekend?  How many spots do we need  to 
save?
 
Steve
**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 12:02:10 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:02:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
Message-ID: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Greetings FoT

I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some

spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
DOT

slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
the car

so I don't have anything to compare to.

Any input would be appreciated



Jim G

RMVR


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 13 12:56:55 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:56:55 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
Message-ID: <6049500.1247511415424.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Steve.  I will be there with my white TR3B #144.  Can't wait!

~Steve Belfer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>Sent: Jul 13, 2009 10:27 AM
>To: FOT at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway??
>
>Anyone going to Cal Speedway next weekend?  How many spots do we need  to 
>save?
> 
>Steve
>**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
>(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 13 12:58:02 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:58:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
Message-ID: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I run Yokohama Advan A048R 205/60/15  7 weekends and still sticky.

~Steve

-----Original Message-----
>From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
>Sent: Jul 13, 2009 11:02 AM
>To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
>
>Greetings FoT
>
>I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some
>
>spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
>DOT
>
>slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
>the car
>
>so I don't have anything to compare to.
>
>Any input would be appreciated
>
>
>
>Jim G
>
>RMVR
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:29:40 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:29:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0E16415B-670E-4F69-A0F0-793AE410F282@bnj.com>

Slicks will always be faster if your car is set up properly for them.  
Two seconds is probably about right. Could be more.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 11:02 AM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings FoT
>
> I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires  
> butB some
>
> spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap  
> to the
> DOT
>
> slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've  
> had on
> the car
>
> so I don't have anything to compare to.
>
> Any input would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Jim G
>
> RMVR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 16:34:58 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>

The fastest R-DOT's in a 205/50/15 size are the Hoosier R6's and Goodyear
Eagle RS-TL's. The V710's are just a tick behind those two.

As far as speed differential is concerned, the Nitto NT-01, Toyo Ra1, R888,
and Kumho V700 are ~ .4 to.5 sec. slower / per minute. Most claim the
Hoosier Street TD is on par with these tires, but if you're fast, don't
expect them to last more than two race weekend.

Tires like the Hoosier Speedster and Yokohama A048's are even slower, but
they both wear like iron.

If you're looking for a great, cheap, decently quick, and long last tiring
go with the Nitto NT01. They're the same compound and design as the RA1's
but they are molded to 6/32 and have larger tread blocks. They only cost
$136 or so.

Hope this helps,

Bob


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:44:43 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:44:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>

What are the Hoosier Street TD's? I assume they are not the same as  
the bias ply Vintage TD's

I've managed to get the Speedsters to work well, but they require  
careful set up. They do not set up like true radials, not sure why.  
Anything past 1.5 degrees of camber and you start losing time-- on my  
car anyway. But they need that 1.5 degrees for sure.  Zero to 1  
degrees of caster like bias plies doesn't work at all either.

They also need careful tire pressure adjustment. There is at least a  
half second per minute in the right pressure--two pounds makes a big  
difference.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 3:34 PM, Bob Adams wrote:

> The fastest R-DOT's in a 205/50/15 size are the Hoosier R6's and  
> Goodyear
> Eagle RS-TL's. The V710's are just a tick behind those two.
>
> As far as speed differential is concerned, the Nitto NT-01, Toyo  
> Ra1, R888,
> and Kumho V700 are ~ .4 to.5 sec. slower / per minute. Most claim the
> Hoosier Street TD is on par with these tires, but if you're fast,  
> don't
> expect them to last more than two race weekend.
>
> Tires like the Hoosier Speedster and Yokohama A048's are even  
> slower, but
> they both wear like iron.
>
> If you're looking for a great, cheap, decently quick, and long last  
> tiring
> go with the Nitto NT01. They're the same compound and design as the  
> RA1's
> but they are molded to 6/32 and have larger tread blocks. They only  
> cost
> $136 or so.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From adams910 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 17:48:19 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:48:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>

The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's, but they
are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that run around the
circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier would make a 205/60/15
Street TD they basically said that they "weren't interested".
The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire they
are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session and have
tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment, keep in mind that
your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the production bodied cars
(SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the
TR3-4's). Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the
Street TD's and
the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the fast radials are
manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14 where the 15" cars are stuck
with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in sidewall !). This isn't an issue for
most, but when you are racing for the podium in 50 car fields it is.

Bob Adams


From igofaster at charter.net  Mon Jul 13 19:16:05 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:16:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>

Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. Poor guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is overcoming for him...
He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can someone email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to re-activate his access to FoT..

All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address or server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the release... any help?

The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca   

Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com

All the best... Bobby Whitehead


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon Jul 13 20:00:21 2009
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 02:00:21 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers
 + WARNING
Message-ID: <20090713.220021.28570.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

Joe, I modified a set of Performance friction race pads.  I had to mill some
material (about 50/1000)off of each end so that they would fit.  I do not have
the part number with me, but can look it up in a few days if you are
interested.  I do recall that they are the 01 compound.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Mystery Calipers-Thanks! Three & Four Pot Jaguar Calipers +
WARNING
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:59:00 EDT

Lots of replies. Thanks!

Concensus seems to be that 3 and 4 pot Jaguar Calipers were used
successfully with Jaguar Vented Rotors on Triumphs.

A frequently conversion on the TR250 and the TR6, but can be retrofitted to
TR3 & TR4.

The three pot calipers may have been used on other applications such as
Rover & Volvo...which would be no surprise.

Another question would be if 'race' quality pads are available.....

Thanks, Joe Alexander

PS:  This is not for me, but perhaps something to consider if the
conversion is simpler and represents additional safety.

PPS: I put the Toyota conversion on the AMBRO. TOYOTA CALIPERS appear to be
a proven configuration, but I DISCOVERED THAT IN SOME CASES THE FLEX LINE
CAN BE POSITIONED SO IT HAS INTERFERENCE  DURING THE FULL RANGE OF MOTION OF
STEERING AND VERTICAL MOTION. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT THIS COULD BE MISSED
DURING INSTALLATION.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
____________________________________________________________
Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxUOPYoKgTlGkxOxqvGpI0LEV
e3dYUgTNSvlF6xU6NAEYyHgZEZR9e/


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 20:41:38 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:41:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
	<673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>

Yeah, then I've seen the Street TDs and thought they looked pretty  
good, Tony Garmey had a set on the Corvette last weekend that I was  
lusting after. Too bad they don't make a 15.

I'm sure the weight makes a big difference with the Speedsters. I've  
never seen such a sensitive tire, even the slicks on my Radical were  
more forgiving. At roughly 18 pounds cold / 20 hot  on Peyote they  
give very even temps across the face but are .5 to 1 second slow. At  
19/21 they pick up the second and are a little hotter on the inside  
edge and middle, at 20/23 they lose a second and are hot in the middle.

Once they heat cycle out they become completely stable and will last  
forever on Peyote but they are two to three seconds slow. When I  
decide I need those three seconds they cost me $800 bucks.


Incidentally, temperatures and pressures at the end of a session are  
all but worthless unless you're getting the reading at the pit wall.  
And you need to pick your track to get the best results. PIR for  
example, has a long back straight, then two relatively short turns  
that put almost no heat into the tire. So readings at PIR are  
worthless for camber because the outside edge gets too much cooling.  
Pacific Raceway has a right,left, right combination followed by a  
short climbing straight, a left and then a carousel called Big Indy-- 
good for camber checks. Even better is a skid pad.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 4:48 PM, Bob Adams wrote:

> The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's,  
> but they are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that  
> run around the circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier  
> would make a 205/60/15 Street TD they basically said that they  
> "weren't interested".
>
> The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire  
> they are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session  
> and have tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment,  
> keep in mind that your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the  
> production bodied cars (SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the TR3-4's).  
> Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the Street  
> TD's and the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the  
> fast radials are manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14  
> where the 15" cars are stuck with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in  
> sidewall !). This isn't an issue for most, but when you are racing  
> for the podium in 50 car fields it is.
>
> Bob Adams


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 20:58:30 2009
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <1060367582.637031247508130945.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BE78EE919DD145FA929EA34BB0C58A0B@TOSHIBALAPTOP>

This is my experience on a Spitfire.

I started out running Yokohama A032's and really liked them.  They were the
hard compound and lasted forever.  However they are now obsolete and I had
to look for other tires.  I also have a set of RA-1's at full tread depth
that I use as "intermediate" rain tires.  Once last year I put them on
anticipating rain that didn't materialize.  My time was off at least 1-2
seconds on a 100 (give or take) second lap from the Yok's.  However, I do
like how the RA-1's work on a damp track.

This year, I had to retire the Yok's.  I went with Hoosier R-6's.  It took a
while to work out the tire pressures, but I can safely say that the Hoosiers
are significantly faster than either the Yokohama tires or the Toyos.  Not
sure how long they will last, but I've got 2 full weekends on them so far.
I think at least 4 weekends for sure, and maybe more.

All this being said, realize that this is on a Spitfire that runs a lot of
negative camber.  The car loves radial tires and vice-versa.

Jim Norlin

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 11:02 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll


Greetings FoT

I'm currently running Toyo Ra-1's and they seem like great tires butB some

spec miata guys are telling me I'm giving up 2 or more seconds a lap to the
DOT

slicks like the hoosiers or V710's. The Toyos are the only tire I've had on
the car

so I don't have anything to compare to.

Any input would be appreciated



Jim G

RMVR
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 20:59:12 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:59:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Race tire poll
In-Reply-To: <F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>
References: <4664589.1247511482353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<673993c50907131534h49002cc9r9eeec01e904b785a@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EF250AB-E94F-4876-9D29-913854A94C96@bnj.com>
	<673993c50907131648r574a0b61k53c91f87305d18d9@mail.gmail.com>
	<F8001F6C-478C-4261-B91F-2D5ED53C6CAF@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <85EB8F09-F9FA-4D2F-A965-DCB27B41EAED@bnj.com>

I got Tony Garmey to help me with tire temps this weekend, We did two  
runs with a new set of speedsters, starting with 27 pounds hot and  
going down, just in case I've been missing something at higher  
pressure. Didn't have time for a real test and tune kind of effort  
(and I was begging Tony's time so I didn't feel I could keep him from  
the real customers) but it confirmed the tire pressures I've been using.

Had overheating problems all weekend. I didn't think it was a head  
gasket because the leakdown didn't show it, but it was. A skinny  
little leak that probably only happened at heavy load. I also had a  
tie rod end come loose and give me about an inch and a half of toe  
out, so I was plowing asphalt. Temps stayed lower longer without the  
extra load, enough for me to charge up from the back and get second,  
though I had to nurse it for the last two laps.

Fun weekend.


On Jul 13, 2009, at 7:41 PM, Bill Babcock wrote:

> Yeah, then I've seen the Street TDs and thought they looked pretty
> good, Tony Garmey had a set on the Corvette last weekend that I was
> lusting after. Too bad they don't make a 15.
>
> I'm sure the weight makes a big difference with the Speedsters. I've
> never seen such a sensitive tire, even the slicks on my Radical were
> more forgiving. At roughly 18 pounds cold / 20 hot  on Peyote they
> give very even temps across the face but are .5 to 1 second slow. At
> 19/21 they pick up the second and are a little hotter on the inside
> edge and middle, at 20/23 they lose a second and are hot in the  
> middle.
>
> Once they heat cycle out they become completely stable and will last
> forever on Peyote but they are two to three seconds slow. When I
> decide I need those three seconds they cost me $800 bucks.
>
>
> Incidentally, temperatures and pressures at the end of a session are
> all but worthless unless you're getting the reading at the pit wall.
> And you need to pick your track to get the best results. PIR for
> example, has a long back straight, then two relatively short turns
> that put almost no heat into the tire. So readings at PIR are
> worthless for camber because the outside edge gets too much cooling.
> Pacific Raceway has a right,left, right combination followed by a
> short climbing straight, a left and then a carousel called Big Indy--
> good for camber checks. Even better is a skid pad.
>
>
> On Jul 13, 2009, at 4:48 PM, Bob Adams wrote:
>
>> The Street TD's are the same compound/design as the Vintage TD's,
>> but they are molded without any tread save for a couple grooves that
>> run around the circumference of the tire. When asked if Hoosier
>> would make a 205/60/15 Street TD they basically said that they
>> "weren't interested".
>>
>> The Speedsters are ok tires, but the fastest SVRA Group 3 legal tire
>> they are not. We pull pressure and temperatures after EVERY session
>> and have tried everything as far as pressures go. As for alignment,
>> keep in mind that your car is a couple hundred lbs lighter than the
>> production bodied cars (SVRA min. weight is 1950# for the TR3-4's).
>> Tire for tire, they are not on the same speed level as the Street
>> TD's and the other decent radials. It also doesn't help that the
>> fast radials are manufactured and are vintage legal in 205/55/14
>> where the 15" cars are stuck with 205/60 (that's a .4" difference in
>> sidewall !). This isn't an issue for most, but when you are racing
>> for the podium in 50 car fields it is.
>>
>> Bob Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Tue Jul 14 07:02:45 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:02:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Bobby,

I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this links to
Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 bucks.

http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm

Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in September.
It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake and
Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a chance
that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be double
parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bobby Whitehead
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua

Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. Poor
guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
overcoming for him...
He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can someone
email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
re-activate his access to FoT..

All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address or
server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
release... any help?

The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca

Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com

All the best... Bobby Whitehead
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 14 07:37:15 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:37:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net>
	<20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <20090714133738.0E09F18765B@autox.team.net>

Since Gary has an AOL address, it's most likely AOL which has 
"dropped him" from the list.  There have been a few messages from the 
big triumph list where AOL members started getting messages again, so 
MAYBE it's better now.  If not, I suggest he get an alternate account 
say a google mail account.  He can set up a rule where messages to 
the gmail account are forwarded to AOL, or can just check the gmail 
account separately.

I saw him at Blackhawk, and the Shingles really laid him low.

- Tony

At 08:16 PM 7/13/2009, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the 
>shingles. Poor guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race 
>car but the pain is overcoming for him...
>He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
>someone email him , first with get well wishes and second with 
>instructions to re-activate his access to FoT..
>
>All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release 
>question... I found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but 
>his email address or server rejected my request... I'm not closing 
>the hood until I get the release... any help?
>
>The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>
>Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>
>All the best... Bobby Whitehead
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Jul 14 08:34:56 2009
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:34:56 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net><20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <C6806C06F87F4912B29F50580F9DF5CE@KasPC>

The medics now have a shot you can get to prevent Shingles.  If you have 
ever had Chicken Pox, go and get it.  It costs about $85 but anything is 
better than Shingles. It will also help those that have Shingles I 
understand.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua


> Bobby,
>
> I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this 
> links to
> Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 
> bucks.
>
> http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>
> Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in 
> September.
> It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake 
> and
> Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
> Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a chance
> that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be 
> double
> parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?
>
> Bob Kramer
> Sales Manager
> RDO Equipment Company
> 16415 N. IH 35
> Pflugerville, TX 78660
> 512-272-4141
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Bobby Whitehead
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>
> Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. 
> Poor
> guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
> overcoming for him...
> He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
> someone
> email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
> re-activate his access to FoT..
>
> All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
> found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address 
> or
> server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
> release... any help?
>
> The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>
> Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>
> All the best... Bobby Whitehead
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 10:43:23 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
References: <mailman.1.1247421602.29036.fot@autox.team.net><20090713211605.MRGE0.1756220.root@mp13><CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A0425C398A1@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<C6806C06F87F4912B29F50580F9DF5CE@KasPC>
Message-ID: <EC71E96C5F1D4EDAA3AADB265619FE87@Bud>

My local Safeway store's pharmacy gives Shingles shots
Racer bud..sonoma, ca.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua


> The medics now have a shot you can get to prevent Shingles.  If you have 
> ever had Chicken Pox, go and get it.  It costs about $85 but anything is 
> better than Shingles. It will also help those that have Shingles I 
> understand.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kramer, Robert" <RKramer at rdoequipment.com>
> To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at charter.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Cc: <fot-request at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 6:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>
>
>> Bobby,
>>
>> I can't help with Gary's case of the shingles but I can send you this 
>> links to
>> Macy's Garage. They sell a simple emergency bonnet release kit for $13 
>> bucks.
>>
>> http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>>
>> Hopefully Gary can put the shingles behind us and join us at TWS in 
>> September.
>> It's gonna be crowded in the TxFOT garage with the new TR4's of Bob Blake 
>> and
>> Andrew Kramer. If we get everybody that is a regular out we will have 2
>> Spitfires, your GT6, my 4A, 3 TR4's and Greg's TR3. Then there is a 
>> chance
>> that Mark Van Lake will be back with his TR6 for the school. We will be 
>> double
>> parking! Maybe we can get some stimulus money for TxFOT garage expansion?
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>> Sales Manager
>> RDO Equipment Company
>> 16415 N. IH 35
>> Pflugerville, TX 78660
>> 512-272-4141
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>> Behalf
>> Of Bobby Whitehead
>> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:16 PM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Cc: fot-request at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Help Gary Fuqua
>>
>> Guys... my good friend Gary Fuqua has been suffering from the shingles. 
>> Poor
>> guy has been trying to climb back into his TR4 race car but the pain is
>> overcoming for him...
>> He dropped me a line and can't seem to get on the FoT network... can 
>> someone
>> email him , first with get well wishes and second with instructions to
>> re-activate his access to FoT..
>>
>> All the best guys, thanks for helping with the hood release question... I
>> found the dude up in Canada that sells the remote, but his email address 
>> or
>> server rejected my request... I'm not closing the hood until I get the
>> release... any help?
>>
>> The Canadian guy gave me this email address    fr.saucher at videotron.ca
>>
>> Gary Fuqua's email is   GSFuqua1 at aol.com
>>
>> All the best... Bobby Whitehead
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 14 20:19:32 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 22:19:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907142209450.3085@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I recognize that the answer to this question is more or less "find the 
longest straight and gear up/down 'till you hit the redline just before 
the brake point...

But here's the question anyway - I bumped up the power in the TR6 
autocrosser this year. There's enough bump (and it's not completely tuned 
yet) that I can pretty much spin the wheels at will in 2nd, or so it 
seems. I also observe that the rears are running hotter than the fronts - 
this is new territory for me, it's always been the other way 'round.

At any rate, shifting in autox is mostly a waste unless you consider the 
effects of running the motor to beyond the $$$ indication on the rev 
counter, SO - if you're gear too low (numerically higher) - say 4.33 - and 
you happen to have a spare diff with 4.10 gears, would an increase in 
available power combined with the higher gear (numerically lower, 4.10 in 
this case) balance things out so you don't have to row through the gears 
as much?

What I get with my gears spreadsheet is 4.33 and 6200 redline == 62 MPH in 
2nd whereas 4.10 and 6200 == 65 mph... hmmmm, maybe still too low to avoid 
the upshift to third on occasion (we run airport autcorsses in our 
regions, so we can see some speeds in excess of 80 in prepared cars.)

Just curious what anyone has to offer on the matter.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Tue Jul 14 22:40:15 2009
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 23:40:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907142209450.3085@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <35A563DDEDB644B8B94B0DD72531EF0C@rocky>

Just IMHO -- for autox the lower gears work better. Thing is, since every 
event is a new course you can't tune to the track like you can road racing. 
I have a 4.55 in my Spitfire. I'll go to one event and do the whole course 
in 2nd, another and I'm rowing back and forth 2nd and 3rd. And you never 
know which until you get there. Changing rear ends is too complex and time 
consuming for tuning for an autox course. So you learn to row when you need 
to. Sometimes short-shifting. Shifting is only a waste when you spend so 
little time in the new gear as to have made it not worth the trouble, but if 
you can get a couple of seconds or a couple hundred feet in the new gear, 
shift! And then learn how to smooth out your 3-2 downshifts (it's not really 
double-clutching but a little throttle blip helps)

My 4.11 hasn't been in the car since the last time I road raced at 
Hutchinson (airport course), which was in the '80s sometime. Even on 
dragstrip tracks like Memphis and the old Wentzville circuit, the 4:55 was 
overall better. At Hutch, the 4.11 was worth 4 seconds a lap over the 4.55. 
At Hallett, the 4.55 was worth 4 seconds over the 4.11. In autox, with the 
4.11 I could hardly get going and I'd give up a ton every time I needed to 
accelerate. I also used to run on 21-inch tires, now I'm on 20s (so's 
everyone else) for the gearing change. BTW, my local AX site is an 
ex-airport runway too, which tends to faster-speed courses.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:19 PM
Subject: [Fot] Stupid Gear Question


> Hi,
>
> I recognize that the answer to this question is more or less "find the 
> longest straight and gear up/down 'till you hit the redline just before 
> the brake point...
>
> But here's the question anyway - I bumped up the power in the TR6 
> autocrosser this year. There's enough bump (and it's not completely tuned 
> yet) that I can pretty much spin the wheels at will in 2nd, or so it 
> seems. I also observe that the rears are running hotter than the fronts - 
> this is new territory for me, it's always been the other way 'round.
>
> At any rate, shifting in autox is mostly a waste unless you consider the 
> effects of running the motor to beyond the $$$ indication on the rev 
> counter, SO - if you're gear too low (numerically higher) - say 4.33 - and 
> you happen to have a spare diff with 4.10 gears, would an increase in 
> available power combined with the higher gear (numerically lower, 4.10 in 
> this case) balance things out so you don't have to row through the gears 
> as much?
>
> What I get with my gears spreadsheet is 4.33 and 6200 redline == 62 MPH in 
> 2nd whereas 4.10 and 6200 == 65 mph... hmmmm, maybe still too low to avoid 
> the upshift to third on occasion (we run airport autcorsses in our 
> regions, so we can see some speeds in excess of 80 in prepared cars.)
>
> Just curious what anyone has to offer on the matter.
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 06:02:18 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:02:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he was
autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
Second?
Thanks, Bill


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul 15 06:21:10 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:21:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] nomination
In-Reply-To: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
References: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <20090715122128.9676C18766E@autox.team.net>

Sure, I'll second that one!

- Tony Drews

At 07:02 AM 7/15/2009, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote:
>Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
>I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
>Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
>I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he was
>autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
>Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
>E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
>Second?
>Thanks, Bill


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 06:23:00 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:23:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <004a01ca0546$fe997580$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, I hope this makes it onto the list; first attempt at it. Also a
computer klutz.

 I did the vintage event at BeaveRun last weekend, near Pittsburgh. Had a
blast, especially after moving to a smaller run group. Actually passed some
guys and did some dicing!
 There was a driver school Friday and a fair amount of rookie stripes during
the races. And a very large amount of very large smiles after the races from
the aforementioned rookies! And lots fof thumbs-ups.
 I talked with Jason Sukey, who was autocrossing his Mini, and many other
Triumph fans.
Also Dan Styduhar, who was autocrossing his TR3A.
 The weather was good, except for a little rain around noon Saturday. Also a
good turnout, a few more vintage cars than last year. The organizers were
pleased.
 The VRG is a great bunch to run with. Very friendly and easy-going, but
serious about having fun. One of the organizers came up to me as I was loading
up and thanked me for doing the event! How often does that happen?
 I'm going to Schenley Park(Pittsburgh) this weekend for the PVGP event. Maybe
see some of you there.
 Bill Tobin  Erie, PA, where Big Bad Voodoo Daddy put on a free concert at a
park by the Bay last night; great time.


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Wed Jul 15 08:38:32 2009
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:38:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
Message-ID: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>

Hello FoT'rs; Quick question on the spindle reinforcing kit available for the
tr2-tr6. Has anyone ever experienced an installation where NO shims are used
on the spacer end and still have to much play? It appears that i need to have
my spacers milled down to accept some thickness of shims so i can adjust as
needed. The instructions state that most installs require about .007 to
achieve proper setting. The drivers side has .002 shim, but that will
deteriorate in short order on the track. The pass. side has NO shims and still
has movement. I have looked at all components till i am blue in the face and
cannot see an issue that may be hanging me up. Anyone run across the same
issue?? Thank You ! Mark Pendy #65 tr4


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 08:53:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:53:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
In-Reply-To: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
Message-ID: <20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Anyone run across the same
> issue?? 

Not the same issue, but a similar one.  Changing the bearings in a Stag
differential a few months back, I found I had to remove almost .030" worth
of shims to get back to the original clearance.  The replacement was thicker
than the original (which was slightly worn, but certainly nowhere near .030"
worth).

Only that one bearing was different; all the others matched the originals.
Don't recall the brand offhand, but it was a name brand like NTN or Timken,
not some offshore clone.

Randall


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 08:56:49 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:56:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 1968 Daytona 24 hours race report
In-Reply-To: <20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
	<20090715145340947.FLEX21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA0E0@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Found on the internet: A race report on a TR4 that ran the 1968 Daytona 24
hour race.

http://www1.fccj.edu/jdebo/Daytona%2024,%201969.htm

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 09:37:47 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:37:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.ht
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Wed Jul 15 09:44:31 2009
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:44:31 EDT
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <c61.4f3ad861.378f535f@aol.com>

/R87dPm: Permission denied


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Jul 15 11:23:42 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:23:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
References: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>

Joe Hines where is he from or what area is he out?

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kramer, Robert
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:38 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; Andrew Kramer
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it
back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is
listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a
picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph
L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>
/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.h
t
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 15 12:17:31 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:17:31 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4
In-Reply-To: <007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>
References: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA1B2@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
	<007601ca0571$0064cd90$012e68b0$@net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04267CA4CF@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

Joe is/was from Statesboro GA. I talked with him this morning after I sent out
the email. The car definitely ran the 24 hour race, he says twice, and also
Sebring 12 hour and the ARRC in 1967. He got the car from a Julian Qualbaum
sp?, but he is the one that converted it to a race car. Some Morgan guy built
the engine. He was very proud of the welded diff because he did the work. I
think Detroit Lockers weren't yet available. In the 1967 ARRC he remembered my
current car and also said that nobody could stay close to the DP winning Yenko
Corvair. He has a picture to send me so I think I have found the beginning of
the trail.

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig [mailto:wensley_tr at comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 12:24 PM
To: Kramer, Robert; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; 'Andrew Kramer'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

Joe Hines where is he from or what area is he out?

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kramer, Robert
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:38 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: don at dcphotos.com; Andrew Kramer
Subject: [Fot] Joe Hines TR4

FOT

I am working hard to track down the history of a TR4 race car I recently
bought. With the help of Frank Harmstad (Porsche racer) I have tracked it
back
to a Joe Hines. I do not know if Joe owned more than one TR4 but he is
listed
as the owner of a TR4 that ran 186 laps in the 24 Hour Daytona in 1967. He
also placed 9th at that years ARRC at Daytona. Interestingly, I have a
picture
of my ex-Bob Stewart TR4A, which was at the ARRC in Daytona in 1967 as an
alternate (ran practices but not the race) with a TR4 in the background that
appears to be the Hines car. I'm pretty excited about this find and I'd like
to verify the participation but I can't find any pictures showing the Hines
car. Does anyone know of Joe Hines or his car? Are there any websites with
pictures of that race? Any help appreciated.


Event: 6th Annual Daytona Continental 24 Hours

Date: 5.2.1967

Triumph<http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Triumph.html>
TR4<http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Triumph/TR4.html> - Triumph
L4
2138 cc N/A

GT+2.0

Joe C. Hines, Jr. (USA)

-

Front-engined

Driven by: C. C. Canada
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/C.%20C._-Canada-USA.html>
/
Joe Hines, Jr.
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/Joe-Hines%2c%20Jr._-USA.h
t
ml>/T. J. Kelly
(USA)<http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/photo/T.%20J._-Kelly-USA.html>

Result: did not finish
Grid: 48th (2:40.600)

Sponsors: unknown

Colours: unknown

Tyres: unknown



Fo\\\

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 15 16:04:11 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:04:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
References: <003f01ca0544$1afaf5d0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <C6B393D12D844C3990287728AD48E0C3@userb38463fba5>

I thought he was on the list?
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM TOBIN" <william.tobin3 at verizon.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 8:02 AM
Subject: [Fot] nomination


> Hi, I'd like to nominate Dan Styduhar to our fine group.
> I met him a while back and he inquired about membership.
> Dan lives in Farrell, PA, not far from BeaveRun.
> I talked to him over the weekend at the PVGP event at BeaveRun, where he 
> was
> autocrossing his very nice '58 TR3A.
> Another Triumph fan for our bunch.
> E-mail for Dan is unv at psu.edu
> Second?
> Thanks, Bill


From gkbyrne at optushome.com.au  Wed Jul 15 17:11:41 2009
From: gkbyrne at optushome.com.au (Geoff Byrne)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:11:41 +1000
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims
In-Reply-To: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
References: <A1976A18C75341E5A6075C62DF8F2730@Pendys>
Message-ID: <35AF84D18DBC45F6BFC16F7374A85E00@GEOFFPC>

Mark
i had a lot of trouble with the shims in my TR6 race car . The small shims 
of .002 and .005 where getting crusted under racing loads and being spat out 
. I believe the contact surface was too small for the loads . I fixed the 
proplem by machining off  1/8 from the spacer them making up a thicker shim 
and hand fitting. Takes a lot of patience to get it right by surface 
grinding a bit at a time off the small shim. You must have .002 clearance or 
you will have bearing problems . How do I know???
Geoff Byrne
TR6 racer down under

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Pendergrass" <mpendy at dishmail.net>
To: "friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] spindle shims


> Hello FoT'rs; Quick question on the spindle reinforcing kit available for 
> the
> tr2-tr6. Has anyone ever experienced an installation where NO shims are 
> used
> on the spacer end and still have to much play? It appears that i need to 
> have
> my spacers milled down to accept some thickness of shims so i can adjust 
> as
> needed. The instructions state that most installs require about .007 to
> achieve proper setting. The drivers side has .002 shim, but that will
> deteriorate in short order on the track. The pass. side has NO shims and 
> still
> has movement. I have looked at all components till i am blue in the face 
> and
> cannot see an issue that may be hanging me up. Anyone run across the same
> issue?? Thank You ! Mark Pendy #65 tr4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 13 16:25:26 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:25:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>

I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James' TR4.

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>
> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>
> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.
>
> For 2009 SOVREN will again be presenting the Columbia River Classic
> in Portland on Labor Day weekend- Sept. 5-7.  This year we are
> featuring Triumphs and are pleased to be hosting the 2009 Kastner
> Cup. We are determined to give you a high quality racing experience
> with the laid-back atmosphere that has been so popular at this
> event.  As in previous years, we will share PIR with the All British
> Field Meet, making the venue a delight for sports car fans.  Even
> more exciting news is that we have just learned that there will be
> no drag races at PIR either Friday or Saturday nights so we will
> have the whole paddock to ourselves and a peaceful evening for those
> who are camping at the track.  Our popular Saturday night vintage
> party and the track BBQ have been rolled into one extravaganza at
> the track on Sunday night.  There are many advantages to this- no
> long wait for that pesky bus or search for a parking space in St.
> Johns, no getting lost driving there, plenty of food for all and
> places to sit while enjoying it.  We will have music, good food,
> and, of course, the vintage fashions, so dust off those vintage duds
> and be ready to rock on.
>
> How can you help?  First, make sure you plan to enter the race and
> spread the word as you meet other vintage drivers.  The deadline for
> the early bird entry fee is postmarked by August 10st so dont
> forget to get your entry in by then. We had 165 entrants last year
> and hope to have as many or more in 2009.  If you want to be
> featured in the program we need your entry as soon as possible so
> please send it in earlier than the deadline!!!!!   The deadline for
> getting the finished program to the ABFM is August 12th  so we need
> to know if you are entering as soon as possible (and I promise I
> wont cash your entry check until September).
>
> Second, consider being a race sponsor.  To be able to complete our
> ambitious plans, we need to secure sponsors for each race so
> consider doing so for yourself or your company or with your race
> group. Your name will be listed as a race sponsor in the program and
> mentioned by our announcers several times during the event.  Well
> even give you four free passes and an extra parking pass for the
> weekend!  All this for just $250.  Contact Judy Buckingham at (425)
> 277-3177 or rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com.
>
> Saturday, Sept. 5 & Sunday, Sept. 6
>
> Group 1  Vintage & FV- $250                              Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 2-  Historic Small Bore            		    Sat.   Porsche
> Friends of Bruce     Ross
>
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 3  Historic Mid Bore & Sportsracers      Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 4- Historic Large Bore-                               Sat.
>
Sun
> .  #1
>
Sun
> . #2
> Group 5- Formula Cars
> Sat.              	    Bonhams
>
Sun
> . #1
>
Sun
> . #2
>  Group 6- Exhibition/CanAm-                                Sat.
>
Sun
> . #1
> 										    Sun. #2
> All Triumph Kastner Cup  Race - $500
> Sun.                        Horizon Racing
>
> Monday, Sept. 7  (2 Races each Group)
> Group 1  Vintage & FV                                         #1
>
#2
> Group 2-  Historic Small Bore                               #1
>
#2
> Group 3  Historic Mid Bore                                  #1
>
#2
> Group 4 - Historic Large Bore                               #1
>
#2
> Group 5- Formula Ford-                                         #1
>
#2
> Group 6  Exhibition                                            #1
>
#2
>
> You can see we have lots of races and lots of opportunity for
> sponsorship.
>  (NOTE- these groups may change depending on the entries received!)
>
> Another way to help would be to advertise your business in the
> program.  It is distributed to all of the racers, all 800
> participants in the All British Field Meet, and sold to spectators.
> Contact Doug Kirk at Douglas.k.kirk at boeing.com for ad
> specifications.  Contact Judy Buckingham to order ad.
>
> Rates:
> 1/4 page - $100
> 1/2 page - $150
> Full page  $275
> Inside front cover              Bonhams
>
>
> Lets all work together to make the Columbia River Classic a great
> weekend.


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Thu Jul 16 09:42:43 2009
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:42:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
Message-ID: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>

FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance problem.
The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to bearing,
same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since the
spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see that your
going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf and they
also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing the
spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had anymore
issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my question. Mark
Pendergrass TR4 #65


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Jul 16 10:24:52 2009
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:24:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
	<73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>

I believe this is Jeff Quicks TR4A, not John James TR4
http://www.sovren.org/default.html
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
To: "friends of triumph" <FOt at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic


>I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
> week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
> downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James' TR4.
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
>> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>>
>> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>>
>> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
>> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.


From billb at bnj.com  Thu Jul 16 10:47:40 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:47:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
In-Reply-To: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
References: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
Message-ID: <A05D65B8-B51D-4AFB-830E-03B2DF87B7B6@bnj.com>

Something I have to work on with Peyote. I'm getting knock back now,  
because I left the clearance go too loose. I figured better off loose  
with a little bearing preload than tight.
On Jul 16, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Mark Pendergrass wrote:

> FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance  
> problem.
> The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to  
> bearing,
> same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since  
> the
> spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see  
> that your
> going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf  
> and they
> also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing  
> the
> spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had  
> anymore
> issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my  
> question. Mark
> Pendergrass TR4 #65
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From billb at bnj.com  Thu Jul 16 10:50:14 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:50:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
In-Reply-To: <595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>
References: <4A0C6969-370E-42ED-9355-052429BBBE11@ix.netcom.com>
	<73561C90-8579-4268-9FB7-2E608D6D1CBE@bnj.com>
	<595CBBCD92AC4E52A6A164B8E18ED0F8@Charly>
Message-ID: <A3EFCF3E-B958-4106-9E5A-F32BB35D1550@bnj.com>

Yup, I don't know how I could have missed that.

On Jul 16, 2009, at 9:24 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:

> I believe this is Jeff Quicks TR4A, not John James TR4
> http://www.sovren.org/default.html
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
> To: "friends of triumph" <FOt at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 3:25 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Columbia River Classic
>
>
>> I just got this from SOVREN, I also saw the poster for the event last
>> week, I'll get an electronic copy to put on the website and for your
>> downloading pleasure. Looks like it features FOT member John James'
>> TR4.
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>>> From: "Richard Buckingham, Jr" <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>>> Date: July 13, 2009 1:57:48 PM PDT
>>> To: Richard Buckingham <rebjrmd at ix.netcom.com>
>>> Subject: Columbia River Classic
>>>
>>> THE COLUMBIA RIVER CLASSIC NEEDS YOU!
>>>
>>> The PNW Historics were great,  Baxters is history,  Mission will
>>> soon be history so lets look ahead to Labor Day Weekend.


From jcjcarrera at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 18:21:42 2009
From: jcjcarrera at comcast.net (jcjcarrera at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:21:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Columbia River Classic!
Message-ID: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, Charly Mitchel is correct, the CRC cover poster is not mine, but Jeff Quick, a great TR4A originally raced by his Dad, Ray in the late 1960's. Understand his Dad was the 68 SCCA PNW Champion in this car. 



Hope to see as many of you as possible at the CRC and the All British Field meet held in conjunction with our SOVREN races! 



John James 

#116 

65 TR4 


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 20:12:03 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:12:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
Message-ID: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?


From malaboge at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 20:28:09 2009
From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:28:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>

Dude-
I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1" wide...?BUT it's?less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't, you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to change a belt...

I need a good belt myself....
Nick in Nor Cal




So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 20:37:10 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:37:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <95A2C9C6-8833-4903-A98D-4CF9B3553679@comcast.net>

sounds good, but actually the belt on the car and the replacement are  
both massively thick (3/4" est.) with kind of a cogged look on the  
inside.
might have to undo an engine mount and jack it up.  Hope the exhaust  
doesn't pull off the manifold.  sometimes one little a project leads  
to another . . .

On Jul 16, 2009, at 10:28 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Dude-
I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1"  
wide... BUT it's less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull  
the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't,  
you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil  
impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have  
settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to  
change a belt...

I need a good belt myself....
Nick in Nor Cal


So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul 16 20:45:07 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:45:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Columbia River Classic!
In-Reply-To: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryv
	ille.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <588761468.2203171247790102391.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090717024534.8B2E418767D@autox.team.net>

My entry went out today.

- Tony Drews

At 07:21 PM 7/16/2009, jcjcarrera at comcast.net wrote:
>Yes, Charly Mitchel is correct, the CRC cover poster is not mine, 
>but Jeff Quick, a great TR4A originally raced by his Dad, Ray in the 
>late 1960's. Understand his Dad was the 68 SCCA PNW Champion in this car.
>
>
>
>Hope to see as many of you as possible at the CRC and the All 
>British Field meet held in conjunction with our SOVREN races!
>
>
>
>John James
>
>#116
>
>65 TR4
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Thu Jul 16 20:53:41 2009
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:53:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<8CBD49D5BD24B3F-B6C-E0@MBLK-M41.sysops.aol.com>
	<95A2C9C6-8833-4903-A98D-4CF9B3553679@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <94F6A5FB3F3C4FF69AFAFE364DCA44CA@Elliott>

On my 1958 TR3A, I can gain extra space by turning the steering wheel way 
over to the extreme lock on one side or the other.  I can't remember which 
side, but give it a try.  I use cogged belts and have no problem putting a 
new on on.  I twist the belt 90 degrees so I'm only trying to pull about 
1/2" past all the interference, not the full 3/4" width.  As for removing 
your old one, just cut it off.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen at comcast.net>
To: <malaboge at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question


> sounds good, but actually the belt on the car and the replacement are
> both massively thick (3/4" est.) with kind of a cogged look on the
> inside.
> might have to undo an engine mount and jack it up.  Hope the exhaust
> doesn't pull off the manifold.  sometimes one little a project leads
> to another . . .
>
> On Jul 16, 2009, at 10:28 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:
>
> Dude-
> I'm so jealous...a "new" vintage car...wow
> the clearance twixt rack and pulley may only be 3/8" and the belt 1"
> wide... BUT it's less than 3/8 thick...release the tension and pull
> the belt off straight forward and it will clear...if it doesn't,
> you're due for new motor mounts anyway as they have become oil
> impregnated (what ...on a British Car...say it isn't so) and have
> settled on down and will only cause grief in the next fortnight...
> And NO...that humongous extension does not have to be removed to
> change a belt...
>
> I need a good belt myself....
> Nick in Nor Cal
>
>
> So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
> I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
> changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
> aren't reliable?
>
> Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
> extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
> the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
> doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
> rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
>
> Any cheater tricks?
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Jul 16 21:33:18 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301ca068f$58c9a360$0a5cea20$@com>

Yup, you put a 2x4 or 2x6 on the bottom of the oil pan and jack the engine
up just enough to squeeze that thick old fan belt on. Just enough "give" in
those original motor mounts to lift engine enough to get the belt on.  I
remember the first time I had to do it.  Might have even carried around a
junk of 2x4 along with the spare belt in case I had to change it on the
road.  Never did, just kept a close eye on the belt.  Those old thick belts
used to crack and have to be replaced fairly often.  Common problem and
"back in the day" that's what everyone did.  Seemed like common knowledge
back then.

Tim Murphy
1961 TR4 #317 (Had a 1966 TR4A that I bought new and had for about 25 years
until the frame broke.  Sure wish RATCO would have been around then!)

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:12 PM
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4  
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and  
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars  
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan  
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to  
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt  
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the  
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really  
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 22:08:58 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:08:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
> 
> Any cheater tricks?

As noted, jack the engine up.  However, I believe the motor mounts were
supposed to stand tall enough to leave room to change the belt, with the
addition of shims if necessary.

Randall


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 17 00:57:36 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:57:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Try this:

Make the belt lose with unclamping the alternator.
Then jack up the engine a little (strong wooden board under the oil pan).
Then you can slip the thick belt through the gap between the crank extension
and he steering rack.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2009 04:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 04:59:45 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 06:59:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAK6i0H4aN4pHsmVakqRVJYYBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>
Message-ID: <8D8AB3D1-C30F-4CAE-BD0B-4F30D6CA2EFA@comcast.net>

thanks, all.  Sure is nice having this body of knowledge to tap into.
Love driving this old, faded, unmolested TR4!

On Jul 17, 2009, at 2:57 AM, MadMarx wrote:

Try this:

Make the belt lose with unclamping the alternator.
Then jack up the engine a little (strong wooden board under the oil
pan).
Then you can slip the thick belt through the gap between the crank
extension
and he steering rack.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2009 04:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

So I am doing some maintenance on the 47,000 mile unrestored '61 TR 4
I bought three years ago, and other than rebuilding brakes and
changing fluids, I have basically just driven - who says old Brit cars
aren't reliable?

Anyway, thought I'd change the ancient fan belt.  Does the fan
extension shaft, attached by those six or eight crusty little bolts to
the pulley, need to be removed in order to get the belt off?  The belt
doesn't squeeze between the fan extension shaft and the top of the
rack.  Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
thick belt.

Any cheater tricks?
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Jul 17 09:18:55 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:18:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question
In-Reply-To: <20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <0A719293-2748-4494-9326-6824ED4FFD09@comcast.net>
	<20090717040857851.XXNY21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301ca06f1$e799ecf0$b6cdc6d0$@com>

I don't think the motor mounts allowed for changing the belt without jacking
the engine up a bit.  I'll have to look, but might even show or say that in
the original "Workshop Manual".  I do know, that even when the car was new,
you couldn't get the belt off/on without jacking the engine.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 11:09 PM
To: ''Friends of Triumph' Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Early TR4 Street Car question

> Seems like there is only about 3/8" clearance for a really
> thick belt.
> 
> Any cheater tricks?

As noted, jack the engine up.  However, I believe the motor mounts were
supposed to stand tall enough to leave room to change the belt, with the
addition of shims if necessary.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From KENMUN at aol.com  Fri Jul 17 13:01:14 2009
From: KENMUN at aol.com (KENMUN at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 15:01:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery
Message-ID: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>

fot, i'm in the process of disassembling my tr3 vintage racer motor to find 
 the source of water in the oil and overheating. so far i've found a crack 
in the  #4 liner (it goes from the top down about 1 1/2" ), the #4 piston 
has a slight  indentation in the top as if it has contacted the head, the 2 
compression rings  are broken and the piston is cracked in the area between 
the compression ring  groves. i think the cracked liner explains the water in 
the oil and overheating  but, why did it crack? and how are the piston and 
ring problems related to the  liner crack? the motor is 87mm, 10.5/1 cr, 
liners up .005", steel head gasket,  and the motor had been running for about 1 
yr. thanks for any ideas. ken  m.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823307x1201398715/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Jul 17 15:45:34 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:45:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery
In-Reply-To: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>
References: <d18.4b29039d.3792247a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca0727$eb24b1d0$c16e1570$@com>

We cracked both #3 and #4 liners when we overheated due to the threaded end
of the water pump snapping off and ultimately throwing the belt off.  When
we took the head off there was water in the cylinders.  I'm thinking we may
have cracked the liners due to "hydraulic" pressure from trying to compress
the water that got into the cylinders.  Had similar cracks, vertical, down a
couple of inches.  As I recall, also scuffed at least #4 piston and maybe
#3.

Tim
1961 TR4 #317

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of KENMUN at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 2:01 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] mechanical mystery

fot, i'm in the process of disassembling my tr3 vintage racer motor to find 
 the source of water in the oil and overheating. so far i've found a crack 
in the  #4 liner (it goes from the top down about 1 1/2" ), the #4 piston 
has a slight  indentation in the top as if it has contacted the head, the 2 
compression rings  are broken and the piston is cracked in the area between 
the compression ring  groves. i think the cracked liner explains the water
in 
the oil and overheating  but, why did it crack? and how are the piston and 
ring problems related to the  liner crack? the motor is 87mm, 10.5/1 cr, 
liners up .005", steel head gasket,  and the motor had been running for
about 1 
yr. thanks for any ideas. ken  m.
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823307x1201398715/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 17 20:15:21 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 22:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion
References: <5E7F4245B4DE4C19B416CFD327A8BCAF@Pendys>
	<A05D65B8-B51D-4AFB-830E-03B2DF87B7B6@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <008201ca074d$9ae11940$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  Hi all, when using the uprated spindles and assembling the whole thing, be
sure to put the spacer into the rear of the hub cavity first, then the rear
bearing, then the grease seal. Guess how I learned this?
  I talked to some guy at Grattan a couple years ago about those hubs and
mentioned that I goofed the first time I put them together; I thought the
spacer would slide in from the front. Oops!
  Turns out the guy was Uncle Jack! I think he changed the instructions.
  They are a great setup.
  Bill ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Bill Babcock" <billb at bnj.com>
  To: "Mark Pendergrass" <mpendy at dishmail.net>
  Cc: "friends of triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw: spindle shim conclusion


  > Something I have to work on with Peyote. I'm getting knock back now,
  > because I left the clearance go too loose. I figured better off loose
  > with a little bearing preload than tight.
  > On Jul 16, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Mark Pendergrass wrote:
  >
  > > FoT'rs....Hello. I found the problem in regards to my shim clearance
  > > problem.
  > > The inner bearing measurements differ (thickness) from bearing to
  > > bearing,
  > > same make,same part number. They differ as much as .012 thou. Since
  > > the
  > > spindle spacer butts-up to the to the bearing shoulder you can see
  > > that your
  > > going to have shim issues. Dug out a few more bearings off the shelf
  > > and they
  > > also had varying thicknesses. So keep this in mind if you are useing
  > > the
  > > spindle kit. By the way, after two full race weekends i never had
  > > anymore
  > > issues with pad knock-back. Thanks to all who responded to my
  > > question. Mark
  > > Pendergrass TR4 #65
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > >
  > > http://www.fot-racing.com
  > >
  > > Fot mailing list
  > > Fot at autox.team.net
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From jfrymark at aol.com  Sat Jul 18 14:41:42 2009
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Mechanical Mystery
Message-ID: <603B6C4C-4010-4F14-88DA-4117AD657E9C@aol.com>

Ken,

What you describe is the result I found when the crankshaft let go  
between the third and fourth crankpins. It's amazing that the motor  
will run for awhile with a broken crank!

John Frymark


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 16:43:23 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 15:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Tech help wanted..Lemons Race...$100.00
Message-ID: <8D1CF850B17E4BBE9AE37289A6DDE0BF@Bud>

Hi Gang...I thought some of you might be interested.If so contact Dan Radowicz
at his link below.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: dradowicz at sbcglobal.net
To: Dan Radowicz
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 3:12 PM
Subject: Tech help


      Ladies & Gentlemen:

      We're looking for a few good women & men (4-6) to help with tech
inspections at the Buttonwillow 24Hrs. of Lemons - August 14-16th.  Tech is on
Friday, from 11:30am till 7p.m., maybe earlier if all the cars get through
tech early.  Pay is $100 for the day, plus refreshments/food.

      Candidates need to have good common sense about car safety, racewear and
racecar prep.  We have a tech sheet that covers the important aspects of what
is required of the teams, so you're not sailing blind, and the rules are very
clear.  We divvy up into tech teams, so there is help if odd question arises.

      Contact me by email if you're interested.  We look forward to working
with you.

      Regards,
      drr
      925.736.8462

      p.s. If you're heading to Monterey, you could do both and have some
spending money in your pocket.


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Sun Jul 19 10:51:12 2009
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:51:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
Message-ID: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>

Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

Thanks in advance.

Kevin


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Jul 19 11:53:07 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 13:53:07 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
Message-ID: <c34.5d76d0e6.3794b783@cs.com>

Kevin,

I got one of Tony Vigliotti's "Ratco" accelerator cables for my AMBRO. I am 
very pleased with it. Very adaptable and targeted at the TR6.

Joe Alexander


> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Kevin


From Dlhogye at aol.com  Sun Jul 19 17:39:09 2009
From: Dlhogye at aol.com (Dlhogye at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:39:09 EDT
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/control arm bushings
Message-ID: <c76.4a80ac54.3795089d@aol.com>

Hello   FoT, 
   I've installed a new set of bushings on the lower control arms of my TR3 
and reamed them to fit the new trunnion pin. It seems that the inner pivot 
and outer pivot of the control arms are not in parallel. With the inner 
mounted up the outer pivot has about 1/8"+ gap between the trunnion. I have the 
problem with both sides. I realize that there are probably a number of ways 
to remedy the matter. Like bending or straightening the arms to make the 
ends become parallel or ream the bushings to a clearance that will make up the 
difference or replace the inner steel sleeve arrangement with polyurethane 
bushings to allow the trunnion to pivot without binding up. Its also possible 
that the inner pivots are not straight.
   Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
   Thanks,
    Dave H.


**************
An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in 
Just 2 Easy Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyExcfooterNO62)


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 19 19:47:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:47:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SPAM:  trunnion/control arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <c76.4a80ac54.3795089d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090720014742573.YDOQ21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> With the inner
> mounted up the outer pivot has about 1/8"+ gap between the trunnion.

That seems like a very small misalignment to me; even poly bushes should
easily deflect that much without binding.  I would go ahead and do a trial
assembly with all 4 arms and the correct clearances (but not the spring);
then see if it binds.

Randall


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 19 20:18:44 2009
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:18:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees
Message-ID: <00d901ca08e0$68ed2930$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, I just found out that John Surtees' son Henry was killed in a racing
accident at Brands Hatch today in a F2 race. Seems another driver crashed,
lost a rear wheel, and the wheel hit young Surtees in the head. Surtees then
also crashed. He was only 18 or 19.

I saw John Surtees at my first GP at the Glen in '68; driving a Honda if I
recall correctly. Good driver, but didn't like the Chaparral too much in later
Can Am races, again if memory serves me.
Bill


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 20:24:14 2009
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:24:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees
References: <00d901ca08e0$68ed2930$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
Message-ID: <0A10C096017740178F9BE627DF985F0D@Bud>

Hello William....thank you for letting us know....That is.. 'Tough Stuff'
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM TOBIN" <william.tobin3 at verizon.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:18 PM
Subject: [Fot] Henry Surtees


> Hi all, I just found out that John Surtees' son Henry was killed in a 
> racing
> accident at Brands Hatch today in a F2 race. Seems another driver crashed,
> lost a rear wheel, and the wheel hit young Surtees in the head. Surtees 
> then
> also crashed. He was only 18 or 19.
>
> I saw John Surtees at my first GP at the Glen in '68; driving a Honda if I
> recall correctly. Good driver, but didn't like the Chaparral too much in 
> later
> Can Am races, again if memory serves me.
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 21:51:38 2009
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 03:51:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My apologies for sending an email though my aol address. A reply had the word
spam connected to it. I'm sending a return reply though my comcast address.


B Randall, thanks for your reply.
B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as soon as I
try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. I've reamed the bushings
to a close fit and they move freely until I try to tighten the gap. I've
opened up the diameter of bushes on one side, to what I feel is too sloppy, to
decrease the binding and I feel that this is also not correct because the
trunnion pin is now riding on a small portion of the bushing surface because
the pin is cocked in the bushing a bit. I think that I can make this work, but
it doesn't seem right. I have a factory service manual that describes to
trunnion set up and I have a good understanding of the process. This is
however my first attempt at setting up a TR and I'm wondering if this is a
typical sort of problem one might have. I'd really like to get it right and
not too tight.B 


B B Thanks again for the reply,
B B  Dave


From billb at bnj.com  Sun Jul 19 22:05:31 2009
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:05:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
In-Reply-To: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <130D20C9-167A-4166-A3F4-0C4662954AAC@bnj.com>

You shouldn't do any of that. You probably have some bent parts that  
are causing the gap. Either the upright, or the arms are the most  
likely, but it could be anything. The parts should fit precisely and  
move freely.

If you stroke the suspension and the gap changes then you definitely  
have bent parts.


On Jul 19, 2009, at 8:51 PM, davehogye wrote:

> My apologies for sending an email though my aol address. A reply had  
> the word
> spam connected to it. I'm sending a return reply though my comcast  
> address.
>
>
> B Randall, thanks for your reply.
> B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as  
> soon as I
> try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. I've reamed the  
> bushings
> to a close fit and they move freely until I try to tighten the gap.  
> I've
> opened up the diameter of bushes on one side, to what I feel is too  
> sloppy, to
> decrease the binding and I feel that this is also not correct  
> because the
> trunnion pin is now riding on a small portion of the bushing surface  
> because
> the pin is cocked in the bushing a bit. I think that I can make this  
> work, but
> it doesn't seem right. I have a factory service manual that  
> describes to
> trunnion set up and I have a good understanding of the process. This  
> is
> however my first attempt at setting up a TR and I'm wondering if  
> this is a
> typical sort of problem one might have. I'd really like to get it  
> right and
> not too tight.B
>
>
> B B Thanks again for the reply,
> B B  Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 20 07:50:03 2009
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:50:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <481323882.1392973.1248097803704.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 08:52:37 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:52:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
In-Reply-To: <1326920134.2557651248061898687.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090720145237701.IHIP28563@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> B B To clarify, with the 1/8"+ gap at the trunnion and the arms, as soon
> as I
> try to lessen the gap, the trunnion binds up tight. 

In that case, I agree, something is bent or out of line.  

If you can turn the trunnion with the arms in the 1/8" position, that would
eliminate the trunnion pin I think.  Likewise if it stays the same
throughout the range of motion, that would eliminate the inner pins.  That
leaves the arms themselves.  

Is there any chance the new bushings were reamed at an angle?  1/8" over the
length of those arms is still a darn small angle.

Randall


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 11:15:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:15:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU126-DS1B266276AE5D28627526AB71C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <277E538B7A1D49B99B38032835E52935@jdnet.deere.com>

> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

FWIW, after an original cable imported from the UK failed within a matter of
months; I asked a local bicycle shop for a "teflon lined brake cable".  It
works great for the throttle cable on my Stag.

They had various lengths, but I just got the longest one and trimmed it as
necessary.  Cost less than $10 in 2004.

-- Randall 


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 18:25:42 2009
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 00:25:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <277E538B7A1D49B99B38032835E52935@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1567789888.3510361248135942927.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I use a Lokar teflon lined cable setup from Summit.B  You have to do a little
modification to get it to work but it's good.B  Can get part number if
necessary.



aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 1:15:04 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Fot] Throttle cable

> Am wondering if anyone in US is stocking 'Moprod' cable for GT6??

FWIW, after an original cable imported from the UK failed within a matter of
months; I asked a local bicycle shop for a "teflon lined brake cable". B It
works great for the throttle cable on my Stag.

They had various lengths, but I just got the longest one and trimmed it as
necessary. B Cost less than $10 in 2004.

-- Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Tue Jul 21 12:10:12 2009
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 12:10:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
Message-ID: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>

I appreciate all the suggestions. The cable in question is for 71-73' Mark III
GT6.
But it's a rare item. As much as I hate to say, I guess Vicky Brit is the only
ones who may have it on the shelf. ($19.95) Am still looking around however.
Maybe NW British...
thanks much guys !

Kevin


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Jul 22 01:36:58 2009
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 09:36:58 +0200
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU126-DS45DF1378B39ADF3F57BADB71A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAADB609xTkH9Aiiet8z0UXpTCgAAAEAAAAIBILTm1yBJHoWTPulh/N7QBAAAAAA==@googlemail.com>

Maybe it is more TR4 style but I believe in throttle linkages more than in
cables.
I suppose more cables stuck than linkages and killed engines.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von KEVIN LYNCH
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. Juli 2009 20:10
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] throttle cable

I appreciate all the suggestions. The cable in question is for 71-73' Mark
III
GT6.
But it's a rare item. As much as I hate to say, I guess Vicky Brit is the
only
ones who may have it on the shelf. ($19.95) Am still looking around however.
Maybe NW British...
thanks much guys !

Kevin
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 08:50:14 2009
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:50:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] throttle cable
Message-ID: <cdf.531e2a03.37988126@aol.com>

In a message dated 07/22/2009 2:38:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr4racing at googlemail.com writes:


> Maybe it is more TR4 style but I believe in throttle linkages more than 
> in
> cables.
> I suppose more cables stuck than linkages and killed engines.
> 

Plus it's been my experience that if your car is not grounded properly, the 
system seems to want 'ground' via that cable.  More than once I've noted a 
'burnt end' on a broken cable, suggesting the break was electrical and not 
stress related.

Bill Dentinger



**************
What's for dinner tonight?  Find quick and easy dinner ideas 
for any occasion. 
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?ncid=emlcntusfood00000009)


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Thu Jul 23 08:53:01 2009
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:53:01 EDT
Subject: [Fot] trunnion/ control arm bushing
Message-ID: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>

/cVfBdi: Permission denied


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul 23 11:22:44 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:22:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] More on AOL
In-Reply-To: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
References: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>

> /cVfBdi: Permission denied
>
>   
Another fine "feature" of AOL is the way it sends out badly formed
HTML in email.  All mail to the various Team.Net goes through a
filter to remove attachments, viruses, etc. and converts it to plain
text if send in HTML.  I don't know if there is an easy way for AOL
folks to send out mail in plain text only.  Maybe just trying different
fonts might do the trick.

mjb.


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 23 11:41:47 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:41:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More on AOL
In-Reply-To: <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>
References: <cc5.5a6d7ef9.3799d34d@aol.com>
  <4A689C64.3030905@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <31FEC220AA374C2B82D717A5712CB89E@jdnet.deere.com>

> I don't know if there is an easy way for AOL
> folks to send out mail in plain text only.  Maybe just trying different
> fonts might do the trick.

This site
http://www.amsat.org/amsat/listserv/aol.html
has information that may or may not be helpful.  

Apparently it is easy if you are using AOL 9.0; impossible if you are using
AOL 8.0; somewhat obtuse for 6.0 and 7.0.

According to
http://www.miniature.net/smallstuff/aol.htm
it's pretty easy for AOL web mail.

Randall


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 24 12:37:26 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:26 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR3A wiring harness available
Message-ID: <bca.51a56a7d.379b5966@cs.com>

FOT,-

I bought a new wiring harness for a later TR3A thinking I would use it on 
the AMBRO.

The wiring harness is entirely custom now and just about finished. (Noises 
by the end of the week?)

I could restock with TRF, but thought I would offer to FOT and TR lists.

Contact me for details.

Thanks,  Joe Alexander


From GRMTim at aol.com  Fri Jul 24 12:37:34 2009
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:34 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
Message-ID: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>

I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car 
more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well. The 
current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens 
next.

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040


In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:


> 
> AMICI
> For those who have done it.
> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
> 
> Thanks for any insight
> Dennis
> 








**************
A bad credit score is 600 &amp; below. Checking won't affect your 
score. See now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)


From andre at gt6.ca  Fri Jul 24 12:53:18 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:53:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
In-Reply-To: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
References: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>

Was looking at the list today.

Only 5 Triumphs listed, 3 true cars, 1 Devin and 1 unknown.

Group 1A
117 Green 1938 Triumph 1267c Dick Jeffery Hillsborough, CA

Group 3A
29 BRG 1955 Triumph TR2 1991c David Nelson Geyserville, CA

Group 3B
44 White 1966 Triumph GT6 1990c Tim Suddard Ormond Beach, FL
116 Blue 1965 Triumph TR4 2188c John James Gig Harbor, WA

Group 5A
189 Red 1956 Devin-Triumph 2200c John G. Miller Laguna Hills, CA


2009/7/24  <GRMTim at aol.com>:
> I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car
> more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well. The
> current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens
> next.
>
> Tim Suddard
> Publisher; Classic Motorsports
> and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
> www.classicmotorsports.net
> www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
> Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>
>>
>> AMICI
>> For those who have done it.
>> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
>> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
>>
>> Thanks for any insight
>> Dennis
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************
> A bad credit score is 600 &amp; below. Checking won't affect your
> score. See now!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
> hmpgID=62&amp;bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>



-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 13:03:03 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2009 Kastner Cup shirts
Message-ID: <689395.58714.qm@web57608.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

FOT:
 
Informatioin regarding shirts for this years Kastner Cup as been posted at the
Columbia River Classic (CRC) website's link.  These are high quality shirts
and run true to size; hey if I purchase cloth from this company it's got to be
good.  If I can show some bias, I believe the design of these shirts is
extremely good.  You can access the CRC website at:
 
http://www.crclassic.com/ 
 
Bill Babcock did indicate that he hopes to clean up the layout when he has
time later.
 
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me for assistance and I
will get you an answer.
 
Enjoy,
 
Ernie
 
 


From westerneagleracing at att.net  Fri Jul 24 13:22:32 2009
From: westerneagleracing at att.net (westerneagleracing at att.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:22:32 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Monterey Historics - how much history?
In-Reply-To: <4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cdd.550e3215.379b596e@aol.com>
	<4362ae390907241153o6d3e1394v39f8bade17f4b4c6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <072420091922.21991.4A6A09F7000B9BE3000055E722243322829B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>

That has to be a record for Triumph under Steve Earle!  Anybody know who is in
the running for the new contract?
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing
-------------- Original message from Andre Rousseau <andre at gt6.ca>:
--------------


> Was looking at the list today.
>
> Only 5 Triumphs listed, 3 true cars, 1 Devin and 1 unknown.
>
> Group 1A
> 117 Green 1938 Triumph 1267c Dick Jeffery Hillsborough, CA
>
> Group 3A
> 29 BRG 1955 Triumph TR2 1991c David Nelson Geyserville, CA
>
> Group 3B
> 44 White 1966 Triumph GT6 1990c Tim Suddard Ormond Beach, FL
> 116 Blue 1965 Triumph TR4 2188c John James Gig Harbor, WA
>
> Group 5A
> 189 Red 1956 Devin-Triumph 2200c John G. Miller Laguna Hills, CA
>
>
> 2009/7/24 :
> > I just got accepted with the Group 44 GT6+. I think it is about the car
> > more than anything else, but I hear there are politics involved as well.
The
> > current management is changing after this year, so who knows what happens
> > next.
> >
> > Tim Suddard
> > Publisher; Classic Motorsports
> > and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
> > www.classicmotorsports.net
> > www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
> > Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 6/29/09 9:04:15 PM, yellow-green at sbcglobal.net writes:
> >
> >
> >>
> >> AMICI
> >> For those who have done it.
> >> What does it take to get into the Monterey Historics?
> >> I'd like to do that event before it's all over.
> >>
> >> Thanks for any insight
> >> Dennis
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > **************
> > A bad credit score is 600 & below. Checking won't affect your
> > score. See now!
> >
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http
://
> www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&
> > hmpgID=62&bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
> '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
> '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 16:25:23 2009
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:25:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR4A head needed
Message-ID: <724086011.4103041248474323665.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello FoT,
B B I'm looking for a TR4A cylinder head for my racecar project TR3A. The one
with the small ports and same size valve guides on both intake and exhaust.
I'm located in Santa Cruz, Ca. The closer the better for shipping purposes.
I'd appreciate it.
B B Thanks,
B B  Dave Hogye


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jul 24 20:14:41 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:14:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
Message-ID: <0KNB00MVTFKGK42A@vms173003.mailsrvcs.net>

The lead washer which seals the oil pressure relief screw in the 
filter head is NLA.  What are folks using as an effective replacement?

tia

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Fri Jul 24 20:18:54 2009
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:18:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
Message-ID: <944663.97190.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim: I use solder. I make a ring the same diameter as the screw out of a piece
of solder. When you tighten it down it seals great!
-Ed-

--- On Fri, 7/24/09, J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net> wrote:


From: J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil system lead washer
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 24, 2009, 9:14 PM


The lead washer which seals the oil pressure relief screw in the filter head
is NLA.  What are folks using as an effective replacement?

tia

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

http://www.fot-racing.com

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From dave at microworks.net  Fri Jul 24 20:24:51 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:24:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <20090725022517.68C6C18764A@autox.team.net>

/P7jYCt: Permission denied


From dave at microworks.net  Fri Jul 24 20:33:29 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:33:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>

Nice...

>From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
>To: <dave at microworks.net>
>Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
>I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX 
>Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>George
>
>
>George & Charisse Montgomery
>Escapees #36965
>George's cell:  830-285-1059
>Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
>georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
>From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
>Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
>To: Michael Connally
>Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
>This guy seems to have Lotus 
>heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
>I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle 
>for the building.
>
>"Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
>Michael Connally
>mcfoto at att.net


From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 24 20:46:45 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:46:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
In-Reply-To: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <040017713AF042A8B5B5A2966C54107B@joepentiumnew>

Must be nice!



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David W. Riddle
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 7:33 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas

Nice...

>From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
>To: <dave at microworks.net>
>Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
>I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX 
>Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>George
>
>
>George & Charisse Montgomery
>Escapees #36965
>George's cell:  830-285-1059
>Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
>georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
>From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
>Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
>To: Michael Connally
>Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
>This guy seems to have Lotus 
>heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
>I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle 
>for the building.
>
>"Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
>Michael Connally
>mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From s.janzen at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 18:30:23 2009
From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
In-Reply-To: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090725023348.78B0618764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DDD51479-685F-485F-BC89-EC6EC2687DC8@comcast.net>

Looks like a waxer, not a racer.  Needs a lot more tools, spares and  
projects.  I could really fill that space over time.
Plus, really needs a hoist on an overhead beam, to pull the engines  
and drop them on a bench.

On Jul 24, 2009, at 10:33 PM, David W. Riddle wrote:

Nice...

> From: "George M Montgomery" <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
> To: <dave at microworks.net>
> Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
> I received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX  
> Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
> George
>
>
> George & Charisse Montgomery
> Escapees #36965
> George's cell:  830-285-1059
> Charisse's cell:  936-933-0134
> georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
> From: John Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
> Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06 PM
> To: Michael Connally
> Subject: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
>
> This guy seems to have Lotus heaven.  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
> I thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle  
> for the building.
>
> "Why must we grow so soon Old, and so late Smart?"
> Michael Connally
> mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 18:42:59 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:42:59 EDT
Subject: [Fot] FW: Received from the Mini Owners of Texas
Message-ID: <c68.5176cc9a.379e5213@aol.com>

Wow!! Thank You!
 
I went on a big cleaning spree after looking at those pics not quite  
understanding why my effort wasn't so organized.  (I'm a slob)  But  we'll ignore 
that...
 
I've got shit piled everywhere cuz it's all current projects.  Ohh,  
allright, I've not done a thing with it in four months but it's still a current  
project...
 
Just today I put three cranks and one block into the back of the E to go to 
 the machine shop tomorrow so that cleared a lot of space...
 
 
In a message dated 7/26/2009 5:36:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
s.janzen at comcast.net writes:

Looks  like a waxer, not a racer.  Needs a lot more tools, spares and   
projects.  I could really fill that space over time.
Plus, really  needs a hoist on an overhead beam, to pull the engines  
and drop them  on a bench.

On Jul 24, 2009, at 10:33 PM, David W. Riddle  wrote:

Nice...

> From: "George M Montgomery"  <georgemontgomery at escapees.com>
> To:  <dave at microworks.net>
> Subject: FW: Received from the Mini Owners  of Texas
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:39:00 -0700
>
> I  received this email from the San Antonio Triumph club (So TX  
>  Triumph) that I am still a member.  Neat garage.
>
>  George
>
>
> George & Charisse Montgomery
>  Escapees #36965
> George's cell:  830-285-1059
> Charisse's  cell:  936-933-0134
>  georgemontgomery at escapees.com
>
>
>
> From: John  Michael Connally [mailto:mcfoto at att.net]
> Sent: 07/24/2009 4:06  PM
> To: Michael Connally
> Subject: Received from the Mini Owners  of Texas
>
> This guy seems to have Lotus heaven.   
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f218/my-lotus-barn-75834/
>
> I  thought that some of you might enjoy a little drool.  I'd settle   
> for the building.
>
> "Why must we grow so soon Old, and  so late Smart?"
> Michael Connally
> mcfoto at att.net
Fot mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 10:37:21 2009
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:37:21 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Spit cam bearings
Message-ID: <c7f.35260f5d.379f31c1@aol.com>

Amici,
 
Anybody have the part number for The Spitty cam bearings in the MK2?   I 
can't seem to put my hand on it even though I've bought them dozens of  
times...???
 
Steve
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)


From Guyots3 at wmconnect.com  Mon Jul 27 22:09:37 2009
From: Guyots3 at wmconnect.com (Guyots3 at wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:09:37 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Camshaft Bearings part
Message-ID: <ccd.5c744945.379fd401@wmconnect.com>

Camshaft Bearings part #  142647/8

Leon


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:00:55 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:00:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 with a V8
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7D41118766F@autox.team.net>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1272764148.html


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:03:43 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:03:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Why!
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>

A Mustang II 4 cyl in a TR3.  For the love of all that is Holy WHY!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1251923041.html


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 02:01:19 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:01:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Frame
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7CED218766C@autox.team.net>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1271862449.html


From dave at microworks.net  Tue Jul 28 01:57:52 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:57:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
Message-ID: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>

Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 04:08:42 2009
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 03:08:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Why!
In-Reply-To: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>
References: <20090728080906.7C8E1187663@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <638699.2773.qm@web80801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

4 speed suspension. That's even more interesting. I wonder what
would happen
if you put a different transmission in it.
________________________________
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 4:03:43
AM
Subject: [Fot] Why!

A Mustang II 4 cyl in a TR3.  For the love of all that
is Holy WHY!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1251923041.html
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

http://www.fot-racing.com

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From herald948 at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 08:03:50 2009
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:03:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
In-Reply-To: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
References: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>

 Agreed; I'd have said "bronze"! :-)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 3:57 am
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad









Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...?
?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html 


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Jul 28 08:25:31 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:25:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad
In-Reply-To: <8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090728080906.7F0AE187673@autox.team.net>
	<8CBDDA35E262AE7-AD8-7C5@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004401ca0f8f$43944190$cabcc4b0$@net>

Well it got Dave to look

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andrew Mace
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 10:04 AM
To: dave at microworks.net; members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Gotta love this ad

 Agreed; I'd have said "bronze"! :-)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>
To: members at dctra.org; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 3:57 am
Subject: [Fot] Gotta love this ad









Calling the color of this Spitfire "brown" is a bit misleading...?
?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1288381261.html 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 17:50:38 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:50:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

It has been suggested that I provide instructions for order shirts via PayPal
so here goes.

The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts for the
2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Is to finish the transaction including information in the message
section indicating what size and quantity shirts you have ordered and if you
will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your order shipped
to you.  Then submit order.  You should receive an email confirmation that
your order has been sent.

This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very simple.  If I
can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that can't do
the same.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

I will try to post these message every couple days.

Thank you,

Ernie


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue Jul 28 18:44:16 2009
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 17:44:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] shirt ordering instructions
In-Reply-To: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <681097.10730.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79E249DB-7138-49C3-9B59-570456FFE400@bnj.com>

Ernie. I've been out of town. Back Thursday and I'll fix things up to  
make it easier


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 28, 2009, at 4:50 PM, Ernest Husmann <ehusmann53 at yahoo.com>  
wrote:

> It has been suggested that I provide instructions for order shirts  
> via PayPal
> so here goes.
>
> The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts  
> for the
> 2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.
>
> Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:
>
> https://www.paypal.com/
>
> Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will  
> appear;
> right click on "Send Money Online"
>
> If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login  
> procedures.
>
> Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com 
> ),
> next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase,  
> select Goods,
> then Continue.
>
> Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a  
> page to set
> up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree  
> and Create
> Account"
>
> Step 5: Is to finish the transaction including information in the  
> message
> section indicating what size and quantity shirts you have ordered  
> and if you
> will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your  
> order shipped
> to you.  Then submit order.  You should receive an email  
> confirmation that
> your order has been sent.
>
> This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very  
> simple.  If I
> can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that  
> can't do
> the same.
>
> Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
> http://www.crclassic.com/
>
> If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
> ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.
>
> I will try to post these message every couple days.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From deweerdm at rogers.com  Tue Jul 28 21:17:48 2009
From: deweerdm at rogers.com (Mike Deweerd)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:17:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Radiator
Message-ID: <CA4AEB398E554CE7A0BE0651EFE728B3@YOUR0463A45548>

Hello everyone
I'm currently running the stock Tr-4 rad in my race car and have just run into
some overheating problems, Can anyone suggest which aftermarket rad is best to
use, one that doesn't require a lot of retro-fitting is best as time is short
before next race. Thanks
Mike Deweerd  62-TR4 # 77


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 29 07:59:54 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:59:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <857180.60254.qm@web57609.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

FOT:
 
I have made revisions to step 5, hopefully clarifying the final step.
 
To allow adequate time for production and shipping, you should have your order
in no later than August 6.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie
 

The following are instructions for accessing PayPal to order shirts for the
2009 Kastner Cup event at PIR.

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select
Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to
set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Finish the transaction including information in the message
section (located at the very bottom past the "Send Money"
button): indicating:

 
a. What size and quantity shirts you have ordered 
 
b. If you will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your
order shipped to your home; ensure I have a shipping address.

c. Then submit order by clicking "Send Money". 
 
You will receive an email confirmation from PayPal that your order has been
sent.
 
This may seem like lots of work to order a shirt but it is very simple.  If I
can figure out the process then there isn't anyone on this list that can't do
the same.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.

I will try to post these message every couple days.

Thank you,

Ernie
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 10:39:05 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:39:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
Message-ID: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Greetings FoT,



B 

I have recently considered a dual air/fuel ratio gauge for the car right up
until I found

out how much the buggers cost. Ibm seeing $ 450.00 and up for a dual A/F

setup. That leads me to an EGT system at less than half the cost.

After some study it seems that an EGT reading is only a relative measurement

and unless the temps at a given moment can be directly compared with the
actual A/F ratio then itbs really only numbers on a gauge. There is
information that will say when you get to a certain EGT your about to melt
pistons but no useful info that says

a given EGT is the perfect AFR.



B 

My question is, how do you folks that are using EGTbs use the data?

I know that we canbt actually compare temps from one car to the next because

of the wide range of minute details that will skew the numbers but in general

what do you get from and EGT.



B 

It seems to me that I would have to have corresponding AFR numbers to match to
the

EGT and that would change with any change whatsoever in ignition timing, spark
plug type/gap, mixture, fuel type and altitude. (Ibm at 5000 feet so that
can happen B  +/- 1000 ft.) I wonbt even get into cam timing or ambient
temps & air density.



B 

I would much prefer a dual AFR but not at the prices Ibm seeing. If anyone
knows

of a dual AFR setup for a more reasonable price, please by all means clue me
in.



B 

Thanks again FoT,

Jim G


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 11:36:30 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:36:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Jim,

Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes
in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at
one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my
race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge.
We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for
gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Jul 29 11:54:24 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:54:24 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
Message-ID: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded fuel
and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is leaded.
At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for Susan's
spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad


From emanteno at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 11:59:58 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:59:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
Message-ID: <354a1780907291059s3821b501k5f02acae35bc9bfe@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 12:54 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:

> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
> fuel
> and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
> leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............


Depends on the track. The race gas at Road America, for example, is
unleaded.

Irv Korey


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 12:21:34 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:21:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 110 Octane and Sensor on AFR's
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE3@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Brad,

While that is true the "die" time is very very long with the mileage we
do racing. I got info from my Auto Meter vendor that it'll last me
longer than I can race probably. Plus the sensor is very easily replaced
and considering not terribly expensive either. Now for a street car at
20,000 miles per year a totally different deal!

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 12:24:23 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:24:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Pricing
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE5@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Irv,

Just depends on the "style" of gauge you select. Go to Autometer.com and
see which "look" you want. Let me know and I'll get you a price.  Send
it to info at dieselperformanceparts.com
Triumph racers discount always applies. Ask Brad or Susan they'll tell
you.


Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 12:52:58 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:52:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <1977611311.4624511248890264608.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <966716613.4643581248893578132.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Mark, 

>From what I know at this point I definetly agree, the AFR is more relevant. 

I think my logic in wanting two AFR meters is flawed. 

If I were still running the ZS's with variable mixture it would make more sense to have two. 

I have Mikuni HSR 45's now so my settings in large are fixed until I swap jets or jump the needles. 

There would be no reason for different readings between the two carbs other than debris or something 

affecting fuel flow. The Mikuni's are real good about staying syncronized which I suppose would also cause a different AFR between the two. I would be interested in the AFR meter if you would like to discuss off-list. 

Thanks, 

jg 






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info" <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 11:36:30 AM GMT -07:00 Chihuahua / La Paz / Mazatlan 
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges 

Jim, 

Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes 
in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at 
one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my 
race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge. 
We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for 
gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant. 

Mark Craig 
Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 
411 Allied Drive 
Nashville, TN 37211 
866-455-7788 Phone 
615-834-9923 Fax 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Fot mailing list 
Fot at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 14:06:26 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:06:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
Message-ID: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>

AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.

And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.   

I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race car,
since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.

Or is my medication level wrong?


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
To: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
leaded.
At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
Susan's spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96hsNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 29 14:53:44 2009
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CF7@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>

Jim,

Not wrong just we will never likely drive enough miles to kill the
sensor in a race car and the information from an AFR is much more
relevant. You also have to get a wide band AFR or it'll be useless.
Check around with your race engine shops that dyno their engines prior
to installation, they all use an Innovative or some other brand wide
band AFR while tuning, They never replace the sensors.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 15:13:41 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:13:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Leaded vs Unleaded for vintage racing
Message-ID: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>

While I'm in a regroup/research mode, what's the feeling on leaded vs
unleaded in TRs, Spitfires more specifically.

I started driving as leaded was being phased out, and there have been many
variations on the urban legends regarding using unleaded in cars designed
prior to the 1970s.

One concept I've seen has it that using a tank or two of leaded in the
"pickling" phase of a new engine is enough to add lead to the valve seats,
good at least for a street car run on unleaded.

Hardened exhaust seats are good for a street car but can potentially drop
out of the head on a race car, causing other problems :O

Obviously, if you're running leaded fuel then it's not an issue.

Anyone running unleaded willing to share their experiences?


Just trying to improve the ride.



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfires.. And other toys

____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career to the next level. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYRam2xDhgIsYZ8xa764dfbmH2yIV7d5qYqv5GBXMkQOQc9f9ypl5m/


From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jul 29 15:44:26 2009
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:44:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaded vs Unleaded for vintage racing
In-Reply-To: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>
References: <007101ca1091$73543040$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <d9f7bd330907291444o23cd0472u60ecd13104a58c13@mail.gmail.com>

Well, my race car doesn't have hardened seats, but since the cylinders are
horizontally opposed, I don't worry about the seats dropping out no matter
what. ;)

Seriously, as the owner of a '76 TR6, I looked into it at one time and had a
chat with one of the reps from Mobil who came to the SCCA National
convention a few years ago. Here's what he said:

Bottom line: Don't worry about it.

Slightly longer version: The whole hardened valve seat thing was a great way
for a bunch of folks to make money on the switch from leaded to unleaded.
The lead was handy in the early days of engines, but was pretty much
unnecessary after WWII due to improvements in metallurgy and machining. Your
valves are far better, lead or no lead at 100k miles than those made prewar
at any point in their life.

So I put whatever is available in my race cars and non catalytic cars.
Street car gets unleaded to keep the cat alive. Doesn't seem to make much
difference.

On that note has anyone seen dyno results on the same engine with different
fuels? A matrix of HP vs leaded/unleaded by octane would be interesting.


On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Jim <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> While I'm in a regroup/research mode, what's the feeling on leaded vs
> unleaded in TRs, Spitfires more specifically.
>
> I started driving as leaded was being phased out, and there have been many
> variations on the urban legends regarding using unleaded in cars designed
> prior to the 1970s.
>
> One concept I've seen has it that using a tank or two of leaded in the
> "pickling" phase of a new engine is enough to add lead to the valve seats,
> good at least for a street car run on unleaded.
>
> Hardened exhaust seats are good for a street car but can potentially drop
> out of the head on a race car, causing other problems :O
>
> Obviously, if you're running leaded fuel then it's not an issue.
>
> Anyone running unleaded willing to share their experiences?
>
>
> Just trying to improve the ride.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> Spitfires.. And other toys
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career
> to the next level.
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYRam2xDhgIsYZ8xa764dfbmH2yIV7d5qYqv5GBXMkQOQc9f9ypl5m/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Jul 29 15:49:11 2009
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:49:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
Message-ID: <000101ca1096$68eecde0$3acc69a0$@com>

We have the EGT probes mounted about 1-2 inches from the exhaust manifold
flange, per the gauge instructions, with the probes on the #1 and #4 header
pipes.  We use them to adjust the mixture in the front and rear SU's (H6's)
and to get an idea if we are running lean or rich.  "Normal" temps are in
the range of 1100 to 1300 degrees.  We try to get about 1200 degrees at WOT
on a long straight.  1400 degrees would be way lean and anything less than
about a 1000 degrees would be rich.

 

We also use them for trouble shooting.  At Elkhart Lake last September we
had a problem where the front carb would go way rich on the front straight
and in the carousel.  The engine would really "load up" and then clear out.
We saw the #1 EGT drop to 8000-9000 when it loaded up.  First found a
sinking float in the front SU but that didn't solve the problem.  Solved the
problem over the winter by making some isolator blocks for the carbs and
also some carb jet "locks".  We had not had the problem before last
September but had put new Cambridge motor mounts in over the summer when I
did the sleeve and piston replacement.  The Cambridge mounts are quite a bit
harder than the Moss or Vic Brit ones which we had previously broken.

 

I think our main problem was the carb jet "sinking" due to a resonant
frequency vibration from the harder Cambridge mounts as Kas reported some
time ago in a post when he saw carb jets sink at a certain RPM on a dyno.
The combination of the isolator blocks and, mainly, the carb jet locks has
solved the problem.  We did an airport test and tune to try and duplicate
the long straight at Road America and did not have any problems.  Also, no
problems at Gingerman and Blackhawk (shorter tracks).

 

The EGT's were invaluable to pointing to the front carb going way rich.
Just took a little while to figure out why.  Have been running about 1300 on
the long straights now with the throttle shafts replaced (were very loose)
whereas before the new throttle shafts we were at 1150-1200.  I had the
wrong needles in the carbs (stock SA's that were set up into the pistons,
what came on the car).  Now have RB's per Kas's recommendation with his G3
cam and our compression of about 11:1.  Hope to do another airport test and
tune next month to see what the temps look like with the right needles.
Suspect we will be back to the 1150-1200.

 

Tim Murphy

1961 TR4 #317


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 15:51:03 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:51:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@166.70.182.42>
	<006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <673993c50907291451j7a667d3embde8a005e095adec@mail.gmail.com>

Wideband AFR's gauges are absolutely critical if you want to extract every
last bit of power out of your motor and keep it safe. However, you should
still learn how to read spark plugs as they will tell you things that the
wideband won't.

As far as unleaded vs. leaded goes, the sensors have no problem with leaded
fuel, but you should replace the sensor after two seasons of use. I think
replacement sensors are about $80. Cheap insurance considering the damage
that an over-rich or too lean condition can cause.


Also windband sensors are absolutely worthless if they're not calibrated
properly. Anytime you mess around with the exhaust system you should
recalibrate it. If access is easy, it's a 2 minute job.


Lastly, you can hook up your AFR gauge to a data acquisition system and
record what your motor is doing real time around the track. For those
without a data system, put the gauge in your in-car video's line of site so
you can see what it's doing. Hope this helps,

Bob Adams


From adams910 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 16:26:18 2009
From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:26:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A/F SU Carbs in-action
Message-ID: <673993c50907291526r6a325a40y8a799f5ea7a20ea3@mail.gmail.com>

While on the subject, some of you guys might enjoy this if you haven't seen
it already...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1YC_gS7aT0


From dave at microworks.net  Wed Jul 29 16:28:34 2009
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:28:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
Message-ID: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>

With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured 
Massa (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have 
released a video message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuS5AwR5Xg

:)


From andre at gt6.ca  Wed Jul 29 16:42:44 2009
From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
In-Reply-To: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4362ae390907291542n2b423554m37f6e29f22be0a4@mail.gmail.com>

4 world champs on the track at the same time.

Hell someone hire back JV and that other Finn and we'll have 6.

I'd watch that race for sure.

;)

A.

-- 
Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca
'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/
'77 FIAT/Ferrari 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/
Ottawa, ON, Canada

2009/7/29 David W. Riddle <dave at microworks.net>:
> With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured Massa
> (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have released a video
> message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jul 29 17:01:26 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:01:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video message from Shumi?
In-Reply-To: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090729222909.D13C9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907291900160.16536@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009, David W. Riddle wrote:

> With the confirmed news that Shumi will be subbing for the injured Massa 
> (probably for the rest of the season) he appears to have released a video 
> message to Lewis, Kimi, et al...
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuS5AwR5Xg
>
> :)

it wooda be bettah if dey use Da Stig

yo yo
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Billb at bnj.com  Wed Jul 29 18:40:32 2009
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:40:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]>
	<006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
Message-ID: <CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>

O2 sensors get poisoned but it's slow. In a racing engine your rings  
will have a shorter life.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 29, 2009, at 1:06 PM, "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.
>
> And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.
>
> I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race  
> car,
> since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.
>
> Or is my medication level wrong?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
> To: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
>
> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with  
> leaded
> fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110  
> octane, is
> leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............
>
> If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
> Susan's spitfire.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo  
> search features.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96hsNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 18:52:58 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:52:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>
References: <200907291154862.SM08792@[166.70.182.42]><006d01ca1088$0ed72d60$1f513542@jrg>
	<CE5D64E2-444C-4125-934E-1972FE4CF908@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <002201ca10b0$2e3145b0$b6711342@jrg>

Well, it's been an interesting afternoon, both on list and off.

Sounds like putting in a new sensor every season (or two) on an AFR is good
enough, even on a car running leaded gas.

I appreciate the input both on list and off.


Cheers,

Jim

Dallas
Too many Spitfires, not enough time.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:41 PM
To: britbits at netzero.com
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges

O2 sensors get poisoned but it's slow. In a racing engine your rings will
have a shorter life.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 29, 2009, at 1:06 PM, "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com> wrote:

> AFRs are essentially O2 sensors with a gauge package.
>
> And yes, O2 sensors don't like lead in the gas.
>
> I thought that was the rationale for using an egt on a classic race 
> car, since the egt sensors aren't affected by lead in the gas.
>
> Or is my medication level wrong?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:54 PM
> To: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
>
> Mark,
>
> I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with 
> leaded fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 
> 110 octane, is leaded.
> At least I thought it was..............
>
> If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for 
> Susan's spitfire.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search 
> features.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYR2bp3SreDtbQM96h
> sNvCpzjk475PlTX1H40M1fEdLNoEVapkzz4c/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
Fot mailing list
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul 29 19:05:08 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:05:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:37:44 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:37:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090730010528.C4212187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003d01ca10b6$57657680$b6711342@jrg>

So...

AFR is short term (potentially) on leaded cars.  Especially good for
dyno/dial in attempts.

EGT is long term.

Or replace AFR sensors on a regular basis?   Is that what I'm hearing from
those that use them?



Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
Spitfire(s) 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a quick check
that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and when the car runs
like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, give me something to help
diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put gas in
the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front carb or rear carb
problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the entire rev
range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed the new sensor over
the course of the dyno session - it was a standard single wire one from the
Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


____________________________________________________________
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 19:37:56 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:37:56 -0600
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>

Now see, this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know 
how to use em. All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em
all. Or maybe a data logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension
telemetry too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback, thanks
Jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony


From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:43:01 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:43:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
In-Reply-To: <0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>
References: <1747176427.4599181248885545416.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<0931A682040E4850B90324BABE203350@hal9000>
Message-ID: <004701ca10b7$1406ccd0$b6711342@jrg>

Jim,

Get a video camera (or digital cam w/ video) and aim it at the gauges.  And
try to remember what you were doing at that point on the course.

I do remember looking at my gauges shortly before # 1 piston melted.  Wish
I'd looked more often.  And understood what they'd told me.  It was all
Smiths at the time so nothing fancy... Just should have taken note of 190+
water temps and shut down sooner.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 8:38 PM
To: 'Tony Drews'
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

Now see, this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know how to use em.
All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em all. Or maybe a data
logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension telemetry too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback, thanks
Jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:05 PM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage

AFR and EGT in my mind are for different purposes.  The EGT is a 
quick check that I'm not going to send aluminum out the exhaust, and 
when the car runs like crap it, along with my fuel pressure gauge, 
give me something to help diagnose the problem.

Fuel pressure = 0 and EGT's go up and then drop means I forgot to put 
gas in the fuel cell again.  One EGT lower than the other - front 
carb or rear carb problem.  Good fuel pressure and egt's go to zero - 
I just lost spark.  Etc.

I've used the AFR on the dyno to get the carbs right across the 
entire rev range.  Made a ton of difference in power.  Also killed 
the new sensor over the course of the dyno session - it was a 
standard single wire one from the Napa store....  Wasn't terribly expensive.

- Tony
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


____________________________________________________________
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From britbits at netzero.com  Wed Jul 29 19:44:40 2009
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:44:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FW: Re:  AFR vs EGT = brain damage (Action Required)
Message-ID: <004801ca10b7$4ef5ed80$b6711342@jrg>

wtf????

  _____  

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To: Jim
Subject: Re: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage (Action Required)



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Subject: Re: [Fot] AFR vs EGT = brain damage
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From igofaster at charter.net  Wed Jul 29 20:38:08 2009
From: igofaster at charter.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:38:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] new email address for Bobby Whitehead
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1245607201.15642.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090729223808.B8WHS.2621875.root@mp18>

Bobby Whitehead.... new email address... please update, I will not have charter in 18 hours...


igofaster at att.net


From stlnyc at msn.com  Wed Jul 29 20:43:40 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:43:40 -0600
Subject: [Fot] aluminum hubs
Message-ID: <BAY104-W49B8FCE3E6E574A680314DA130@phx.gbl>

Amici-



Has anyone ever gotten aluminum front hubs (TR3-6) from Moss Europe?  If so,
I'd like to hear about your opinions/experiences with them.  Suitable for
vintage racers?  Thanks in advance.



Fred Hodgson


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 29 22:16:20 2009
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 21:16:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure
Message-ID: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>

A couple weeks ago at Fontana I shut down the engine after lap 6 of  
the first session of the weekend when my engine started making a  
metallic noise, bad news.
Pulled the pan at the track after much prodding from the guys to find  
the pan full of sparkling metal bits.   just pulled it apart tonight  
and found that the #2 rod bearing is in bad shape.
At first glance, most everything else looks pretty good.  The #2  
piston has slight scuff marks on the skirt and the crank looks good.   
The carillo rods have some dark heat marks near the destroyed bearing  
area.  The spun bearing lost about 3/8" of material at the front end  
and the rest of it is the full width.  In other words, one end is kind  
of pear shaped.

My #3 lifter is hammered too.  We'll see what else I find and I hope  
most of the parts are still good.  I'm sure that many grams of metal  
flakes have pumped there way into every part of the engine, including  
the oil cooler.  After more investigation, I'll see if the spun  
bearing is the culprit or perhaps the result of some other problem.

~Steve


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul 30 04:40:47 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:40:47 GMT
Subject: [Fot] 110 Octane and Sensor on AFR's
Message-ID: <200907300440643.SM07912@[166.70.182.42]>

Thats good to know about the sensor life.  Where in the exhaust header did you
install the bung?

Brad
.
>While that is true the "die" time is very very long with the mileage we
>do racing. I got info from my Auto Meter vendor that it'll last me
>longer than I can race probably. Plus the sensor is very easily replaced
>and considering not terribly expensive either. Now for a street car at
>20,000 miles per year a totally different deal!
>
>Mark Craig
>Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
>411 Allied Drive
>Nashville, TN 37211
>866-455-7788 Phone
>615-834-9923 Fax


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul 30 04:44:17 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:44:17 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Pricing
Message-ID: <200907300444299.SM07912@[166.70.182.42]>

I can vouch for his pricing for the FOT!  It's VERY good!

Thanks!

Brad


>Triumph racers discount always applies. Ask Brad or Susan they'll tell
>you.
>
>
>Mark Craig
>Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
>411 Allied Drive
>Nashville, TN 37211
>866-455-7788 Phone
>615-834-9923 Fax


From jsiam1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul 30 06:20:48 2009
From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 05:20:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Head WTB
Message-ID: <24040438.1248956448049.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi   All  I am looking for a rebuildable TR4 high port head.  Any one have one they can sell.  Thanks   Joe    818 350 6222


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 30 07:22:59 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 06:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] empty trailer
Message-ID: <998707.8883.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Will have an empty open bed 18/ft. trailer heading north from the
Louisville/Lexington, KY area to southeast Wisconsin over Labor Day weekend;
could be persuaded to detour to eastern Iowa.  If you have something you need
hauled contact me off the list to discuss.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie


From EDENMA at aol.com  Thu Jul 30 14:48:19 2009
From: EDENMA at aol.com (EDENMA at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:48:19 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 32, Issue 31
Message-ID: <c81.5662e26c.37a36113@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2009 7:49:11 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

Now see,  this is why I like hangin out with you guys.
Look at all the cool stuff you  can learn.
Now I not only need an AFR but an EGT as well now that I know  
how to use em. All I need next is a flight engineer to watch em
all. Or  maybe a data logger..that's the ticket!....I can get suspension
telemetry  too
......please somebody stop me!
Great feedback,  thanks
Jg
 
Jim:
 
I have an old Flight Engineer certificate I have not  used in many years 
and you have an extra seat!  I even live close and I'll  work for beer!  (No 
cheap industrial beer though!)  Much cheaper than  a data system if you don't 
mind the weight penalty!
 
Cheers!
 
Mark
62 TR4 #357
64 Spitfire #42





**************Hot Deals at Dell on Popular Laptops perfect for Back to 
School 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223105306x1201716871/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D9)


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Thu Jul 30 18:03:48 2009
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (rkramer3 at austin.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:03:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale, lot's of financial interest,
 please  spread the word.
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE5@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <20090731000348.C3DTN.342492.root@hrndva-web13-z01>

Long story short, I bought a TR4 racecar for my son to race, then found a better one. Soooo I have an TR4 almost a racecar for sale (taking offers) and it is advertised in the VTR Classifieds at:

http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=4277


Here is the info I posted:

This is an interesting car. It is sort of set up for racing. The story is that a fellow named Elmer Peters raced a TR4A in the SCCA. At some point he wrecked the TR4A and converted his solid axle TR4 into a race car by moving over his race parts. I can find no evidence that he ever got this car on the track but maybe it was autocrossed, I don't know. 

For a street car it is in need of restoration but it is what they typically call rust free. There is surface rust on the frame but overall it does not appear to have any body issues. I got it out of Ohio but the car was reportedly from Florida. He took pains to not do anything to the body that was not reversible short of mounting the roll cage, seat and some accessories. Truthfully, this car can go either way, make it a race car or restore it to the original. 

I do not know the original color but it has a racer coat of thin maroon paint on it now. All the body panels are solid and you can see from the pics that they fit pretty well. 

My first impression was that the engine was the stock motor that came with the car but I have recently cleaned out the fuel syetem and replaced the old gas. I drove it yesterday and engine is better than I first thought. The new fuel perked it up and it didn't smoke like it did before I cleaned it out. It may be mildly race prepared as it has quit a bit of pep. The clutch hydraulics are a little weak, maybe needing to be bled again. It has a header a later long branch manifold and early H6 SU's, common for racing but I have the original manifold. It has an overdrive transimission and the rear axle is standard issue open gears (no Detroit Locker or Southwick conversion). The brakes have been rebuilt end to end with new Stainless Steel flexible brake lines and rebuilt cylinders and calipers.

I have a ton of spares that I got with the car including the seats, the old interior. spare differential, windscreen, top frame etc. I can make up a spares package from my other parts to suit the buyers tastes, either street car or race. There are the racing wheels in the pictures and another set of stock steel wheels, I think the hubcaps are in the spares but I can make no guarantees until the stuff is sorted.

I bought this car for my son to race but recently lucked into a better car for him, so this one has to go. 

You can contact me through email :
rkramer at rdoequipment.com or call me at work 512-272-4141 or nights 512-250-9498

The car is located near Austin Texas and I have lots of pictures that I can email you if you are interested. I paid $4500.00 for it but I am motivated to sell because the new TR4 took it's spot in the garage. 


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu Jul 30 19:28:28 2009
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:28:28 -0600
Subject: [Fot] - aluminum hubs
Message-ID: <BAY104-W14B15A7717DA5110B17934DA100@phx.gbl>

Amici-

I'm fully aware of the Southwick hubs.  I was trying to get
information/opinions on these particular hubs.



Fred Hodgson


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 06:29:30 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 06:29:30 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure
In-Reply-To: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>
References: <20CDDCDE-D921-4A9C-B219-C34EC557EAFE@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <931C86DF7812446C8F2EFFBCD505095E@hal9000>

Steve,
That's exactly what happened to me except it was # 3. It turned the rod blue
half way up to the wrist pin. My lifters were ok though.
My rod bearing squeezed out the side and the whole motor was full of
glitter.
All the bearings were toast but there were metal particles throughout
the motor. Some believe the fact I used .040 under bearings was the cause.
I had only one race weekend and some practice time on the motor.
It took out # 3 piston and liner as well and the piston was just starting to
contact the head.
jg


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Belfer
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 10:16 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Cal Speedway Engine failure

A couple weeks ago at Fontana I shut down the engine after lap 6 of  
the first session of the weekend when my engine started making a  
metallic noise, bad news.
Pulled the pan at the track after much prodding from the guys to find  
the pan full of sparkling metal bits.   just pulled it apart tonight  
and found that the #2 rod bearing is in bad shape.
At first glance, most everything else looks pretty good.  The #2  
piston has slight scuff marks on the skirt and the crank looks good.   
The carillo rods have some dark heat marks near the destroyed bearing  
area.  The spun bearing lost about 3/8" of material at the front end  
and the rest of it is the full width.  In other words, one end is kind  
of pear shaped.

My #3 lifter is hammered too.  We'll see what else I find and I hope  
most of the parts are still good.  I'm sure that many grams of metal  
flakes have pumped there way into every part of the engine, including  
the oil cooler.  After more investigation, I'll see if the spun  
bearing is the culprit or perhaps the result of some other problem.

~Steve
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:15:54 2009
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:15:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
Message-ID: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in WOOD . 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 31 11:28:46 2009
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBE01B7E110715-1714-FFF@WEBMAIL-MY04.sysops.aol.com>

Just a qualified comment:? It appears to?us that the Larry Young cam is perfect for our kind of vintage racing.

Joe A



-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 11:15 am
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two



I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and 
FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it 
with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to 
talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 
pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in 
WOOD . 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Fri Jul 31 11:42:15 2009
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 12:42:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A04410EF10D@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I've copied Larry so you can see his address. Larry, did my cores arrive
alive?

Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35
Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-272-4141

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 11:16 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two

I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and
FedX

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it
with the

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to
talk

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores.

Thanx

Jim G

PS

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80
pipe.

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in
WOOD .
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 31 14:28:48 2009
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:28:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup shirt ordering instructions
Message-ID: <121043.98928.qm@web57611.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

There were comments at the CRClassic website asking for instructions on how to
order shirts and I had indicated that I would post the instruction every few
days, so as a reminder here again are the instructions to order via PayPal.
 
Remember that the deadline for ordering is August 6.  Please do not wait until
the last minute.
 
Thank you,
 
Ernie

Step 1: Access PayPal using the following link:

https://www.paypal.com/

Step 2: Move your cursor over "Send Money" and a drop down menu will appear;
right click on "Send Money Online"

If you already have a PayPal account follow the normal login procedures.

Step 3: In the Send Money box enter my email address (ehusmann53 at yahoo.com),
next your email address, then the total amount of your purchase, select
Goods,
then Continue.

Step 4: If you do not have a PayPal account you will be taken to a page to
set
up an account.  Enter all information requested then select "Agree and Create
Account"

Step 5: Finish the transaction including information in the message
section (located at the very bottom past the "Send Money"
button): indicating:
 
a. What size and quantity shirts you have ordered 
 
b. If you will be picking up the shirts at PIR or would like to have your
order shipped to your home; ensure I have a shipping address.
 
c. Then submit order by clicking "Send Money". 
 
You will receive an email confirmation from PayPal that your order has been
sent.

Designs and pricing can be found at the CRClassic website:
http://www.crclassic.com/

If you have any questions, please contact me using my email;
ehusmann53 at yahoo.com.


From gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 17:41:27 2009
From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:41:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>

One of them broke my brand new unground core in half and it WAS in schedule 80 plastic pipe!? Then the dummies swept up the cam pieces but saved the piece of pipe thinking IT was what I was shipping.? They couldn't see why I wanted $100 for a piece of pipe.? It takes all kinds...

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 9:15 am
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two



I sent my cam out to Steve Long to get 10 degrees ground off it's duration and 
FedX 

broke it in half. Considering the package it was in they must have run over it 
with the 

delivery truck. Anyway, I have misplaced Larry's email address and I need to 
talk 

about a new cam. BFE is out of cores. 

Thanx 

Jim G 

PS 

If I ever have to use fedX again I'm shipping it inside a piece of schedule 80 
pipe. 

Last time I used they manged to fold a head gasket in two that was packed in 
WOOD . 
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Jul 31 18:05:33 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 18:05:33 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Larry Young FedX broke my cam in two
In-Reply-To: <8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1955879176.5280381249056954157.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CBE04F8EB5C45D-1638-874@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A7386CD.7030905@dfn.com>

gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
> One of them broke my brand new unground core in half and it WAS in schedule 80 plastic pipe!? Then the dummies swept up the cam pieces but saved the piece of pipe thinking IT was what I was shipping.? They couldn't see why I wanted $100 for a piece of pipe.? It takes all kinds...
>
>   

Good thing it was only a cam core, and not a $3500 Taylor guitar:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YGc4zOqozo



Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 11:51:13 2009
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:51:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual AFR gauges
In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A5A9CE0@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local>
Message-ID: <f99bbf590907291051qe962451v4d418b003416840a@mail.gmail.com>

Mark,

I thought I had heard that the AFR sensors shouldn't be used with leaded
fuel and if I remember correctly the fuel we've been buying, 110 octane, is
leaded.  At least I thought it was..............

If not then putting in an AFR sensor is something I will look into for
Susan's spitfire.

Thanks!

Brad



On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 1:36 PM, Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info <
info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Dual gauges aren't necessary when using an AFR gauge. The O2 sensor goes
> in the header collector and you are actually reading all 4 cylinders at
> one time. I use (and sell if you need one) the Auto Meter AFR's on my
> race Spit and have found it to be MUCH more relevant than an EGT gauge.
> We use tons of EGT gauges in my diesel performance business but for
> gasoline especially race usage the AFR is much more relevant.
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot


From herald948 at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 13:52:25 2009
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 15:52:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <KAEJIJPKJJCCJMEHJDIIMENCCJAA.davlins@epix.net>
References: <KAEJIJPKJJCCJMEHJDIIMENCCJAA.davlins@epix.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD91D11BE3410-574-176E@mblk-d36.sysops.aol.com>

 I'm afraid I can't help you either way; sorry! I'm more a "small Triumphs" guy. But I'm copying a list of folks who might have some information.

FoT'ers, please make sure to reply to Dave, not me!


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sauter <davlins at epix.net>
To: herald948 at aol.com
Cc: Davlins at Epix.Net <davlins at epix.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2009 12:15 pm
Subject: TR6 Race Car










Good Morning,

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1971 TR6. I am told that the last 10
cars produced in 1971 were race cars. Can you tell me anything about these
and what they might be worth ??

Thank You
David Sauter