[Fot] Ignitionl issues

[MadMarx]

There are two types of ignition coils.
Some can take full 12V and has an internal resistor of about 3 Ohm and the
ones that need an external resistor and has an internal resistor of about
1,5 Ohm.

For instance the blue Bosch coil can take full 12 V, the red Bosch coil
which has more output needs a resistor which is given in the package.

The good thing with Bosch coils - they work with all ignition systems.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Greg & Alison Blake
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. April 2009 05:34
An: 'Joe Boruch'
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Ignitionl issues

I am running an alternator and have not had a problem with the cut-off,
it kills the engine every time.  I will go ahead and switch the coil
through a separate ignition switch just to be safe.  Some have mentioned
that the coil needs to be fed with a wire that has a resistor in it.
Any idea on what that should be?  Currently, I am running full 12v from
the battery.  Also, should that resistor be bypassed when the starter is
engaged?

I have checked voltage to the timing light, 12v.  The wires are a 8mm
silicon jacket, low resistance wire.  They were purchased at Autozone as
a kit that had to be trimmed to fit and then assembled.

Thanks,

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boruch [mailto:jaboruch at netzero.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 8:12 PM
To: ablake2 at austin.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ignitionl issues

Greg, as you described it in your first paragraph, your coil is always
energized, so when the points are closed current is flowing thru the
coil, hence it will over heat.  In your second sentance it sounds like
you are saying it is switched by the cut-off switch.  If that is the
case the coil will be energized anytime the switch is on.  Do you have
an alternator?  Could the coil be back fed through that even with the
cut-off switch off?  The coil really should be turned on and off by a
separate ignition switch.
Not sure why the timing light is not working.  Are you sure it is
getting 12 volt power to it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Greg & Alison Blake" <ablake2 at austin.rr.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Ignitionl issues
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 23:43:29 -0500

I have my coil wired directly to a hot post that is connected to the
battery side of my cut-off switch.  In other words, when the switch is
closed, the + side of the coil is directly connected to the positive
side of the battery.  The other side of the coil is connected to my
Mallory dual point.

I noticed tonight that my coil was very hot and leaking oil out of the
top when I had the battery charger attached to the battery.

Do I have my coil wired incorrectly?

I will obviously be replacing that coil now so any suggestions for a
part number on a replacement type (Bosch or others) from a national
chain would be appreciated.

Another strange problem, timing lights will not work on my car.  The
ones I have tried work on other TRs, but not mine.  Anyone know what
could cause an inductive timing light not to pick up a signal?  I
believe the wires are 8mm.

Thanks,

Greg
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