From robertten1 at aol.com  Thu May  1 05:01:11 2008
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 07:01:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
Message-ID: <8CA7991CCC49B15-430-206B@webmail-stg-d02.sysops.aol.com>

Small CNC Robodrill.? All depends on how large a part you are looking to be able to machine.



Bob T

'64 Spit GT? autocrosser


-----Original Message-----
From: James McAndrew <jdment at suddenlink.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:02 pm
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine




I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT. 

 

I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small prototype
Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).

 

I don't need a Bridgeport.

 

I have 220v single phase in my garage.

 

What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power feed?

 

Thanks

Jim McAndrew

Tyler, Texas
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Thu May  1 06:42:44 2008
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 08:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
	<00e101c8ab3a$8be14bb0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
	<82D103E7-4792-4343-AA96-89FDFE16F7DD@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <00ff01c8ab88$dd79fb40$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, A source for used equipment: Plaza Machinery in Bethel, VT. He can
ship anything anywhere.
Very honest and reputable fellow. Sells quality equipment.
www.plazamachinery.com
Joe at plazamachinery.com
Again, no financial interest, just a good guy to deal with.
Bill Tobin  Erie, PA Vintage TR6  Gingerman bound

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Babcock
  To: WILLIAM TOBIN
  Cc: James McAndrew ; fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] OT Milling machine


  I agree that the american or german made machines are worth the bucks and
better used than the chinese stuff is new, but I've found this shoptask
machine to be pretty handy for my middling skills--the little I remember from
machine shop class in High School reinforced with a bunch of skimmed books. I
think it takes about three years of serious effort to be a machinist of any
quality and ten years and some talent before you really know what you're
doing.


  Used to be a lot of used good machinery around, and I had a friend that sold
the stuff. When I finally had space to put together a machine shop he was out
of biz--told me the sources of used equipment had pretty much dried up and the
available stuff was junk. Kind of makes sense--when every little town had a
machine shop the equipment moved around a lot. Most of those small shops are
gone, and the gear serious people buy today is for lights out machining. When
one of those operations goes BK there's nothing us regular folks can use.


  I spent a lot of time perusing eBay and other sources before I bought my
shoptask. I gave up.

  On Apr 30, 2008, at 5:22 PM, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote:


    Hi, this is along the lines of discusion about automotive lifts of a few
    weeks ago. You need one.
    Go for the Bridgeport, with digital readout and power feed. Yeah, the
Griz
    or Jet or Enco are ok, but you can get a used Bridgeport (or Clausing or
    other brands) for about the same money and it will outlast the lesser
    brands. Plus, was made in Conn.or somewhere domestically and parts or
    accessories are readily available.
    I have an Index brand milling machine, built in 1944; I have the original
    mfr. documents. War Dept OK'd! It's smooth as silk and much more accurate
    than I'll ever be. (Before I bought it, I'd never run one!)
    I also have a Rutland brand import; works ok but not a Bridgeport.
Probably
    came from the same factory as the Enco, etc.
    I have a couple sources for used equipment; give me a shout and I'll give
    you details. And no I don't have a financial interest in them. Just
trying
    to help.
    Hope this helps; my 2 francs worth.
    Thanks, Bill Tobin  Erie Pa Vintage TR6
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "James McAndrew" <jdment at suddenlink.net>
    To: <fot at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 10:02 PM
    Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine



      I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT.







      I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small
prototype

      Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).







      I don't need a Bridgeport.







      I have 220v single phase in my garage.







      What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power
feed?







      Thanks



      Jim McAndrew



      Tyler, Texas

      _______________________________________________

      http://www.team.net/donate.html



      Fot mailing list

      Fot at autox.team.net

      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot



      You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net

    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com



  Bill Babcock
  Babcock & Jenkins
  Billb at bnj.com
  503.936.7660
  www.bnj.com

From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May  1 12:54:02 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 11:54:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <481A11CA.9000005@dimebank.com>

If you have room for a Bridgeport and can find one used, get it. Yes, 
it's big. But when you find yourself faced with a job that needs the 
travel or table space, a smaller machine just won't do.

If you don't have room for a Bridgeport, look for a Clausing 8530 or 
8520 (in that order). About 1/2 the size of the B'port, almost as rigid.

Don't forget to budget for 'mill jewelry'. I probably have more invested 
in that than my 8530 cost up front. The other advantage of the 
Bridgeport is that the tooling that fits it is cheapest; a smaller 
machine takes parts and accessories that the industry considers oddball, 
and thus charges more for.

Direct/digital readouts are wonderful, but certainly not necessary if 
you're methodical and careful. Power feed is occasionally useful - I 
have it on a single table axis - especially if you're doing long slow 
cuts or facing something with a fly cutter.

I'd put the money into a air misting lube system instead, myself, if I 
had to choose.

Best,
chris

From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Thu May  1 14:58:23 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 13:58:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
Message-ID: <200805012058.m41KwOY7017308@mail168c2.megamailservers.com>

James,
      The only vise to use if you have any choice is a Kurt. Everything 
else I have seen or used will move the work when you clamp.
      If you get a Bridgeport or similar 3 phase machine, the easiest 
way to convert single pahse to 3 phase is a variable frequency drive 
(VFD, inverter for those ebay searches). They all output 3 phase, just 
make sure to get a 220-240 volt unit. They will all take a sigle phase 
input even if they don't admit to it. If they have no single phase 
rating just  oversize it by about 50% - if you need 2 hp buy at least a 
3hp. Make sure you can get documentation for whatever you buy so you 
know how to wire it and set the limits for speed, accel, decel, & remote 
variable speed.
    VFDs work far better than the cheap 3 phase converters which really 
need an idler motor to smooth them out. If you have the time and spare 
parts you can make a converter with some capacitors and a 3 phase motor 
but it is  big, noisy, and needs to be tuned to the load. There are many 
plans floating around the net for these.

Greg Lund

James McAndrew wrote:
> I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT. 
> 
>  
> 
> I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small prototype
> Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).
> 
>  
> 
> I don't need a Bridgeport.
> 
>  
> 
> I have 220v single phase in my garage.
> 
>  
> 
> What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power feed?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim McAndrew
> 
> Tyler, Texas
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as gtlund at cyberspeedway.net

From igofaster at charter.net  Thu May  1 14:59:28 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 13:59:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>

I really have to give a huge THANK YOU to Quantum Mechanics. Some of you guys know the situation I've had with my GT6 gearbox and the T50 Toyota...
I purchased a QUANTUM MECHANICS gearbox from Robert @ Quantum. 
I had issues with the tranny and did not get any runs out of it, unless you count 1 1/2 laps at Hallett...
I sent the transmission back to Quantum. I talked to Robert today @ Quantum, he said 2nd gear had gone out. All the other gears were fine. I told Robert I may or may not have aligned the hydraulic release bearing up properly, and I insisted i may have been something I did that was wrong.
He insisted on repairing the geabox and shipping it back to me for NO CHARGE! I tried to offer money for shipping and he turned it down, twice!
Guys and gals, it doesn't get any better than that.
We have Eagles Canyon here in N. Texas this month in two weeks. I bought a new clutch and slave cylinder from Vicky Brit.. I'm going to go ahead with pulling out my 'parts bin' noisey tranny and hop I get the gearbox here in time to do ECR.

HUGE plug for Robert @ Quantum Mechanics FoT!

Bobby Whitehead
#54 CVAR TRIUMPH GT6

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Thu May  1 15:38:48 2008
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 21:38:48 GMT
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
Message-ID: <20080501.173848.7044.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

I agree about the Bridgeport.  I have an older belt driven speed changer
model.  Got it from a state technical school that auctioned them off when
buying new ones.  I use it often.  A little play in the ways, but I can
usually hold to 5/1000 inch tolerance.  The other machine that I use all the
time is a lathe.  I have a 9" South Bend belt driven lathe.  It can do most of
what I want, but there are times that a larger one would be helpful.  There I
go, another guy not satisfied with the size of my tool.  Joe(B)

-- Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:
If you have room for a Bridgeport and can find one used, get it. Yes,
it's big. But when you find yourself faced with a job that needs the
travel or table space, a smaller machine just won't do.

If you don't have room for a Bridgeport, look for a Clausing 8530 or
8520 (in that order). About 1/2 the size of the B'port, almost as rigid.

Don't forget to budget for 'mill jewelry'. I probably have more invested
in that than my 8530 cost up front. The other advantage of the
Bridgeport is that the tooling that fits it is cheapest; a smaller
machine takes parts and accessories that the industry considers oddball,
and thus charges more for.

Direct/digital readouts are wonderful, but certainly not necessary if
you're methodical and careful. Power feed is occasionally useful - I
have it on a single table axis - especially if you're doing long slow
cuts or facing something with a fly cutter.

I'd put the money into a air misting lube system instead, myself, if I
had to choose.

Best,
chris
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net

_____________________________________________________________
Click to get a free auto insurance quotes from top companies.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2211/fc/Ioyw6ijmNj76jZw3asbxSsZko1Pt0L
5vCz7wrlkLNgER48J5lHU10W/?count=1234567890

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu May  1 15:49:13 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:49:13 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Steel Flywheels - (2) Left....next production run late fall
 2008 for TR4 / TR6
Message-ID: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>

FoT:

I have shipped nearly all of the steel flywheels ordered.

I have two steel wheels left from this run. They are available.

When these are gone, it may be October/November when I run more. At that time 
I hope to run TR6 Flywheels, as well, and combine the order to lower the cost.
 
(Volume combined with commonality between the two flywheels will be taken 
into consideration in the production costs)

If you want to put your name on one of TR4/TR6 Flywheels to be run late fall, 
let me know. I will Excel Spreadsheet your interest. Advance orders will 
benefit from discount.

THANKS!

Joe A

   </HTML>

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May  1 15:53:25 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:53:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>
References: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805011752430.30777@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 1 May 2008 igofaster at charter.net wrote:

> HUGE plug for Robert @ Quantum Mechanics FoT!

I think it's "John" at Quantum Mechanics. As in John Esposito.

Good people.

> Bobby Whitehead
> #54 CVAR TRIUMPH GT6

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Thu May  1 17:10:57 2008
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:10:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steel Flywheels - (2) Left....next production run late
 fall 2008 for TR4 / TR6
In-Reply-To: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>
References: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <0BBC8ADB-7D7E-4C84-91F8-1B904C62081B@earthlink.net>

I got mine and it is truly jewelry quality. This piece, used with the  
[slightly lighter] diaphragm style clutch cover will save nearly 30  
lbs. of rotational weight. Highly recommended!
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM
On May 1, 2008, at 3:49 PM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

> FoT:
>
> I have shipped nearly all of the steel flywheels ordered.
>
> I have two steel wheels left from this run. They are available.
>
> When these are gone, it may be October/November when I run more. At  
> that time
> I hope to run TR6 Flywheels, as well, and combine the order to  
> lower the cost.
>
> (Volume combined with commonality between the two flywheels will be  
> taken
> into consideration in the production costs)
>
> If you want to put your name on one of TR4/TR6 Flywheels to be run  
> late fall,
> let me know. I will Excel Spreadsheet your interest. Advance orders  
> will
> benefit from discount.
>
> THANKS!
>
> Joe A
>
>    </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net

From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Fri May  2 15:54:47 2008
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 17:54:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1963 Sebring Race Video
Message-ID: <002c01c8ac9f$2879fd40$6601a8c0@Elliott>

A TR friend in France just sent me this link about this DVD.  

The DVD has a guided tour of one of the cars number 38 in Kas Kastners workshop and explains about the wing extensions for the wider wheels and tyres and also catalogues the modifications made for the race as well as quite good albeit short coverage of the race itself. the disk is availabkle here http://www.motorfilms.com/videos.php?id=104
 
It is volume 11

Would Keith Files' TR4 be one of these ?

Don Elliott, Montreal

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Fri May  2 18:06:33 2008
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 00:06:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Forged spitfire 1500 pistons
Message-ID: <050320080006.27954.481BAC8900076C9B00006D3222155754740A9D07009B079F9C9F00@comcast.net>

Amici...

After the big explosion at St. Louis I'm looking for some forged pistons.  Who's got the hot setup now?  Pistons would be flat topped 11:1 compression ratio.  Anyone have any suggestions...

Aaron
#87 Spitfire 1500 
Southern Illinois Region SCCA

From dave at microworks.net  Sat May  3 12:43:06 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:43:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: 1975 Red TR6 For Sale
Message-ID: <20080503184314.PKJN7113.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

   A long time DCTRA member is selling his TR6.  Nice car.
   eBay item # is 150241682984

     Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:20:08 -0700
     From: Fran Wickenhauser <fwick at financing-equipment.com>
     Subject: 1975 Red TR6 For Sale
     Hi  Dave:  I am back in Phoenix about 1 -2  months during the year.
     I  have  a  home in Sun City Grand.  Our permanent home is still in
     Crested  Butte,  CO.  We are down here for the month of May.  While
     here,  I  have  decided  to  sell  my  Red 1975 TR6.  It is on eBay
     currently.   It  is  the  only  Red  TR6  with a checkerboard floor
     garage.   Please  broadcast  this  note to all members.  My contact
     information  is  below  and also in the Ebay ad.  Anyone wanting to
     see the car here in Phoenix can call me anytime.  Thanks.
     Fran Wickenhauser, President
     Midwest Leasing, Inc.
     37 Kubler Court
     P O Box 1214
     Crested Butte, CO 81224
     800-203-8920
     800-203-8921 Fax
     www.financing-equipment.com

From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Sat May  3 18:52:23 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 17:52:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Hackett Motors TR4 race car info
Message-ID: <481D08C7.2070901@cyberspeedway.net>

Group,
     Does anybody have any info on the '64 TR4 Hackett Motors race car.
It was raced from '64-'67? Hackett motors was in Saugatuck, Ct. Jay Paul 
is a steward for us in Phoenix and we got to talking today at
the track about old races and cars and I mentioned the FOT. He said his
dad, Ed Paul crewed for David Hackett on the TR4 that Doug Given drove
in the NE Div and was div champion in '66. He said David Hackett also
had an aluminum bodied TR4?  Jay said his dad would like to hear what 
has become of the car and people involved. Any stories out there?

Thanks,
Greg Lund

From Guyots3 at wmconnect.com  Sat May  3 21:05:11 2008
From: Guyots3 at wmconnect.com (Guyots3 at wmconnect.com)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:05:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Message for Joe Alexander
Message-ID: <d06.2f1a2560.354e81e7@wmconnect.com>

Hi Joe,

Our wireless router seems to have fallen over!

For any communications re windage trays. please call me on my cell phone at
541-531-2633 PST, as well as sending an email as usual.

Thanks

Lion

presently on wife's PC, piggybacking of neighbour's unsecured but slow
wireless network!

sneaky huh?

L   </HTML>

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun May  4 10:54:32 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 16:54:32 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Paging Robert MacKenzie
Message-ID: <050420081654.10773.481DEA47000B3B4400002A152200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net>

Apologies to the FOT for the interruption:


Robert,

Please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Irv KOrey

From spreiss at verizon.net  Sat May  3 23:05:29 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 16:05:29 +1100
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
Message-ID: <001801c8ada4$79a8da50$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I noticed that there is a
drop of coolant that repeatedly collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.
Does this signal a head gasket problem? Compression in that and all cylinders
is in the 150 lb range. I do not want to pull the head at this point if it can
be safely avoided. Don't mind changing the oil again within a shorter than
normal interval, but I really want to drive the car this week. The main cap
bolts are all torqued to 80 ft/lbs as listed in the manual.
Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump pickup has torn
loose from the spot where it was soldered to the pickup tube. There is now a
hole in the screen about the size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of
these filters that they would be willing to send me right away for a
reasonable price?
Many thanks
Steve P.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  4 14:57:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 13:57:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
In-Reply-To: <001801c8ada4$79a8da50$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I 
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly 
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump 
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to 
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the 
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these 
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for 
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May  4 18:07:16 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 20:07:16 EDT
Subject: [Fot] I - J  Crank Scrapers and Windage Trays.
Message-ID: <d10.260c6c88.354fa9b4@cs.com>

FOT,

There are (21) I - J Triumph Scraper &/or Windage Tray Sustems queued up for 
production for the FOT Group Purchase.

On the 9th of May, I - J  will establish a new price on the Scrapers.  
Running Changes for product improvement have increase the complexity and value of 
the assembly.  Price increase will be announced, shortly. I think it will Retail 
under $99.00, but more than $90.00  

Know also that the FOT Group 15% Discount goes away with our current order. 
So, if you are thinking about it, buy now and install later. And if you have 
other friends that are interested, send them my way.

Thanks everyone, and best regards,

Joe Alexander   </HTML>

From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Mon May  5 09:52:52 2008
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:52:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] John Fitch - update
Message-ID: <000801c8aec8$142dfeb0$3c89fc10$@racer@comcast.net>

Hello All:

 

A while back there was an email to FOT about the quandary John Fitch finds
himself in by just trying to be a good citizen.  I have read other accounts
of his situation and that donations to help him offset the cost of his
environmental cleanup have been steadily coming in.  This moring I read the
following in a historical racing enthusiasts newsletter called "The Fabulous
Fifties" which I thought was worth mentioning to the group:

 

"We have heard about John Fitch's problem and cannot believe it!  A donation
in on the way, Ciao" - Stirling Moss, London.

 

Gary

1962 TR4

1969 TR6

From BillB at bnj.com  Mon May  5 13:11:07 2008
From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 12:11:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
References: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>

Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.

The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.

________________________________

From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems



> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon May  5 13:37:54 2008
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:37:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
In-Reply-To: <A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>
References: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE4EAA31F@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I used to deal with a little seepage on the figure of 8's but I switched to
using blue Hylomar in place of Permatex and I haven't had an issue since. It's
expensive but they actually had some at Harbor Freight the last time I was
there.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 2:11 PM
To: Randall; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems

Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head
gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.

The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make
a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.

________________________________

From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems



> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rkramer at rdoequipment.com

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Mon May  5 17:26:05 2008
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 19:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stub axel and
Message-ID: <003001c8af07$64d03e20$6701a8c0@DFN4YV61>

Hi folks  I made an attempted today to change front rotors,but I could not
pull the hub I am using the up graded stub axel and aluminum hubs.  Has any
one had this issue and is the fix to use a puller.I still have end float and
have only worked on one side.  thanks   rob

From ablake2 at austin.rr.com  Tue May  6 20:16:20 2008
From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 21:16:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Looking for TR6 tranny
Message-ID: <000001c8afe8$57227a90$6401a8c0@blake1>

Group,
 
I am looking for a complete rebuildable TR6 non OD transmission for my
project.  Does anyone have one they are willing to sell?  Please contact
me off list.
 
Ablake2 at austin.rr.com
 
Thanks,
 
Greg  

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May  7 11:15:51 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 10:15:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From markvaden at gmail.com  Wed May  7 12:00:09 2008
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:00:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?

TIA,
Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  7 12:52:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:52:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <124401c8b073$74d47f30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

IMO, burping a little after a hard run and sudden shutdown is normal.  There
is still a lot of heat stored in the cylinder head & block, but the water is
no longer circulating to carry the heat away.  So the residual heat causes a
little boiling in the head.

The real question IMO is why it didn't go into the overflow.  Sounds like it
may be blocked; or perhaps the upper lip of your radiator neck is damaged so
it doesn't seal to the cap.

Randall

From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  7 12:53:40 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:53:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <612041.6544.qm@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had that happen once when I was having head gasket sealing problems (before Uncle Jack was building my engines.) Some of the combustion pressure must have leaked into the water passages.
Gary Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net; TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 7, 2008 1:00:09 PM
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping

Hi All,

Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?

TIA,
Mark
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as garygret at sbcglobal.net

From REK46 at aol.com  Wed May  7 13:00:56 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:00:56 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <c65.248fcc0e.35535668@aol.com>

He should also ck to see that the rad and thermostat are not above the 
head....or air steam pocket cud occur...may need expansion tank and bleeder above 
head level


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
family favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From rem9 at frontiernet.net  Wed May  7 13:05:54 2008
From: rem9 at frontiernet.net (Russ Moore)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8b075$60313940$2093abc0$@net>

Get a friend to help for the cost of a beer! Far cheaper than having paint
repairs to do

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rem9=frontiernet.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rem9=frontiernet.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chuck
Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rem9 at frontiernet.net

From henry at henryfrye.com  Wed May  7 14:15:54 2008
From: henry at henryfrye.com (Henry Frye)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B52E8650115BB4085979C721A085AD405FF71@server.Triumph.local>

I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
This is how I do it...

Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
proper torque. Reinstall headlights.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
> Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
> To: Friends; Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
> after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
> have done it several times, probably try different techniques
> each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 14:34:47 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 16:34:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <63DCE15B.7EA592E0.00159EE9@cs.com>

i locate the hood on the car.

then i raise it into the open position and secure with the prop rod.

it stays in place while i locate the hinge and start the capscrews.

i can take it off and put it on, by myself, and in a few minutes.

i would expect the tr6 to be the same.

i have been doing it this way since 1969.

joe a

>I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>This is how I do it...
>
>Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> To: Friends; Triumph
>> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>>
>> --
>> Chuck Arnold
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Wed May  7 15:50:50 2008
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (U K MOTORSPORTS)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:50:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>

Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension w/
a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
trouble than its worth...Chip


> [Original Message]
> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
> This is how I do it...
>
> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
> > To: Friends; Triumph
> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
> >
> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
> >
> > --
> > Chuck Arnold
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
7:46 AM

From gasket.works at verizon.net  Wed May  7 15:16:14 2008
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (Gasket Works USA)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 16:16:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <27911552.1034481210194974133.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.

I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket 
from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two 
seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush 
on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an 
appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin. 
Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and 
align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove 
the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from 
the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.

I did this for the race car not my street car.

M.N.Dunst

Gasket Works USA, LLC

gmt-8 Pacific time

626.358.1616 voice

626.628.3777 fax

From budscars at comcast.net  Wed May  7 15:32:36 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:32:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>

Hi gang...There's just something about being able to do things solo as we 
age...Maybe it's about not depending on anyone for help, because 'It Aint 
Always Available'...and the challenge is what this car stuff is greatly 
about!
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "U K MOTORSPORTS" <tr6racer21 at earthlink.net>
To: "Henry Frye" <henry at henryfrye.com>; "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


> Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
> not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
> suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
> brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension 
> w/
> a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
> trouble than its worth...Chip
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
>> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>> This is how I do it...
>>
>> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> > To: Friends; Triumph
>> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>> >
>> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chuck Arnold
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Fot mailing list
>> > Fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
> 7:46 AM
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 15:33:23 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 17:33:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <42B341E1.2A2D0FEE.00159EE9@cs.com>

i like that idea...

>What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.
>
>I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket 
>from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two 
>seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush 
>on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an 
>appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin. 
>Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and 
>align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove 
>the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from 
>the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.
>
>I did this for the race car not my street car.
>
>M.N.Dunst
>
>Gasket Works USA, LLC
>
>gmt-8 Pacific time
>
>626.358.1616 voice
>
>626.628.3777 fax
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From don at carterdesignassociates.com  Wed May  7 15:59:00 2008
From: don at carterdesignassociates.com (Don Carter)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:59:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>

I share your frustration. This goes much better with a friend's help. In
fact, without risk of scratching it is real scary.  So wait for a friend and
instruct him something like this:

1. Place at least two of the hood mounting bolts along the front fender
mounting channel near the front of the engine bay by the hinges. Also have
1/2 inch wrenches handy and within reach of this same area.
2. You and a FRIEND pick up the hood holding each of its sides. (If you
don't have a friend, find one.  If you can't find one, then sell your
Triumph without a hood installed.)
3. You take the passenger side, especially if your right handed.  Hoist the
hood onto each of your inside (the engine side) shoulders, whilst, (a
British word), facing toward the front of the car.
4. Tilt the hood so that the hinges mate as close as possible with the hood
mounting holes and install somewhat loosely two of the bolts through the
passenger side hinge holes.
5. Then go over and relieve your friend who is patiently holding his
driver's side up and who has helped by gently moving the hood whilst you
bolted the passenger side.
6. Install two bolts on the driver's side with a bit more tightness and
gently lower the hood and adjust by hand bumping the edges to align.  Raise
and tighten until adjustments and alignment is made and finish other bolt
installations.

The floating captured threaded plates are of course the problem, but this
method has worked for me for many installations.  Praying for more patience
might also help before you start.

Don Carter, AIA



Carter Design Associates
6213 Skyline Dr., Suite 100
Houston, Texas 77057
(713) 529-2288 Telephone
(713) 789-2330 Fax
don at carterdesignassociates.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

--
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as don at carterdesignassociates.com

From Billb at bnj.com  Wed May  7 16:08:19 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:08:19 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>
References: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>
Message-ID: <1A04FEBA-3DBA-4EF7-B2EE-6517D7BA6AE1@bnj.com>

Isn't this an exposed pin hinge like the TR3/4? Can you drill the pin  
out and replace it with a cap screw and nylock?

On May 7, 2008, at 11:59 AM, Don Carter wrote:

> I share your frustration. This goes much better with a friend's  
> help. In
> fact, without risk of scratching it is real scary.  So wait for a  
> friend and
> instruct him something like this:
>
> 1. Place at least two of the hood mounting bolts along the front  
> fender
> mounting channel near the front of the engine bay by the hinges.  
> Also have
> 1/2 inch wrenches handy and within reach of this same area.
> 2. You and a FRIEND pick up the hood holding each of its sides. (If  
> you
> don't have a friend, find one.  If you can't find one, then sell your
> Triumph without a hood installed.)
> 3. You take the passenger side, especially if your right handed.   
> Hoist the
> hood onto each of your inside (the engine side) shoulders, whilst, (a
> British word), facing toward the front of the car.
> 4. Tilt the hood so that the hinges mate as close as possible with  
> the hood
> mounting holes and install somewhat loosely two of the bolts through  
> the
> passenger side hinge holes.
> 5. Then go over and relieve your friend who is patiently holding his
> driver's side up and who has helped by gently moving the hood whilst  
> you
> bolted the passenger side.
> 6. Install two bolts on the driver's side with a bit more tightness  
> and
> gently lower the hood and adjust by hand bumping the edges to  
> align.  Raise
> and tighten until adjustments and alignment is made and finish other  
> bolt
> installations.
>
> The floating captured threaded plates are of course the problem, but  
> this
> method has worked for me for many installations.  Praying for more  
> patience
> might also help before you start.
>
> Don Carter, AIA
>
>
>
> Carter Design Associates
> 6213 Skyline Dr., Suite 100
> Houston, Texas 77057
> (713) 529-2288 Telephone
> (713) 789-2330 Fax
> don at carterdesignassociates.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net]  
> On Behalf
> Of Chuck Arnold
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:16 PM
> To: Friends; Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
>
> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after  
> engine
> replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several  
> times,
> probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with  
> all of
> them.
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as don at carterdesignassociates.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed May  7 16:23:40 2008
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:23:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>
	<00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE572D0F3@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

The doing things solo part really sucks as we age. I used to sling those
trannies into place with hardly any pain, and mounting a bonnet was no
problem. Now I have to work up the courage. It helps to have a willing wife.
Try withholding sex to get her cooperation.

OK, promise to wash up before groping. Maybe that has a chance.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
RACER BUD
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 4:33 PM
To: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net; Henry Frye; Chuck Arnold
Cc: Friends of Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood

Hi gang...There's just something about being able to do things solo as we
age...Maybe it's about not depending on anyone for help, because 'It Aint
Always Available'...and the challenge is what this car stuff is greatly
about!
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message -----
From: "U K MOTORSPORTS" <tr6racer21 at earthlink.net>
To: "Henry Frye" <henry at henryfrye.com>; "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


> Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
> not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
> suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
> brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension
> w/
> a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
> trouble than its worth...Chip
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
>> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>> This is how I do it...
>>
>> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> > To: Friends; Triumph
>> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>> >
>> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chuck Arnold
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Fot mailing list
>> > Fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
> 7:46 AM
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rkramer at rdoequipment.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May  7 16:44:50 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 00:44:50 +0200
Subject: [Fot] This corner is "oioioioioi"
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net><00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE572D0F3@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c8b093$f69218f0$6602a8c0@HOME>

http://totgelacht.com/content/9010-die-kurve-des-grauens.html

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Wed May  7 16:44:55 2008
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 18:44:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Instuction manual
Message-ID: <482230E7.9080600@cfl.rr.com>

Any one have an instruction manual for a Spa fire suppression system 
they are willing to copy. I will of course pay your expenses to copy and 
send.
thxx,
Bob

From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Wed May  7 16:57:38 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 18:57:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <BLU127-W35E935D3308ABCB350F6B98CD10@phx.gbl>

Mordy Dunst wrote:

> What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.
>
> I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket
> from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two
> seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush
> on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an
> appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin.
> Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and
> align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove
> the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from
> the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.

This is what I did on my TR6.  It still takes 2 people to hold the hood,
but it takes 30-60 sec to remove/attach.  And the hood always stays aligned.

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Get Free (PRODUCT) RED  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 18:07:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 20:07:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>

Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a kit 
of hardware and adapter plates.

Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of 
candidates for the KIT.

Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser operations, 
a little die work...likely stainless steel

Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone 
from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in the 
racing stables, too.

(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)

Thanks,

Joe   </HTML>

From DSPGTi at aol.com  Wed May  7 19:49:50 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 21:49:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <bc8.2b80686c.3553b63e@aol.com>

I am in the auto salvage business. We do not specialize in any particular car 
but I love to buy Miata's. Everything sells off of these cars. I take some 
small parts like from the interior and get obscene prices on ebay. The seats I 
like to save and take to Carlisle that is coming up next week. Not only do the 
TR guys like them but the kit car guys go crazy for them. I get $100 and up 
per seat so if you find them any cheaper, consider it a deal.
 
My biggest problem is getting cars at reasonable prices to dismantle. The 
racing scene has exploded with literally hundreds showing up at events so 
everyone want's one. And fiberglass hardtops, forget it. They average $1,200 a piece.
 
Anyway, put me down as a yes! Can you send me any info that I can take with 
me this weekend. I have a set of seats I am taking. Last year a guy bought the 
pair for a Spit. I'll get to hear from him how he made out. He thought they 
were a little broad but took them anyway. CHA CHING.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May  7 20:28:39 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 21:28:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080508022831.39032187648@autox.team.net>

As someone mentioned, any overflow should go to the overflow 
tank.  The seal between the top of the rad cap and the outer flange 
is supposed to be an "infinite" pressure seal.  The spring and inner 
seal is where the 7 lbs or 21 lbs or whatever the cap is rated for 
applies.  It lets the water in between the inner seal and the outer 
seal to go to the overflow tank.  When it cools down it's supposed to 
suck water from the overflow tank back into the radiator.

As mentioned, two things will cause the water not to go to the overflow:
1. blocked line to the overflow
2. crappy seal between the radiator cap and the radiator

I've had issues in the past where after a 30 min session the overflow 
tank (1 - 2 qt size) was almost full and it wouldn't pull back into 
the radiator.  This was caused by a minor leak between the combustion 
chamber into the water jacket.  There was still enough pressure in 
the radiator that the water wouldn't pull back in.

A hard run at low speed will likely put more heat into the system 
than it handles well, and then shutting down the car would cause more 
heat soak where you may see some localized boiling and would 
certainly see the water expanding.

I have a little bleeder on the top of my thermostat housing to get 
the last little bit of air out of the block, but having a little air 
in the system would give it some room to expand too so I don't think 
that's the issue.

One other issue I'll mention is that the stock radiators need a cap 
with a longer than usual distance between the inner seal and top of 
the cap (the spring part needs to be longer).  I run an aftermarket 
radiator so it uses normal caps.

21 psi is certainly too high - you risk blowing the figure 8 seals 
with that.  I'd be nervous going much over 10 psi.

- Tony Drews

At 01:00 PM 5/7/2008, Mark Vaden wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
>car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
>of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
>bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
>runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
>high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
>ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
>and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?
>
>TIA,
>Mark
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May  7 20:53:21 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 21:53:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080508025310.79674187665@autox.team.net>

I came out of the grocery store last year and someone was inspecting 
the seats in my Miata (of course my top was DOWN, the proper 
position, making inspection easy).  He was looking to see if they'd 
fit in a spridget.

I LOVE the seats.  110,000 fairly hard miles (a trip without at least 
one sideways corner is a wasted trip) and they are holding up well.

While the car is the same length at the TR-4, it's quite a bit wider 
so I'm sure there's a bit of finagling to get them to fit in the TR-4 or TR-6.

- Tony

At 07:07 PM 5/7/2008, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a kit
>of hardware and adapter plates.
>
>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>candidates for the KIT.
>
>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser operations,
>a little die work...likely stainless steel
>
>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street 
>cars in the
>racing stables, too.
>
>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe   </HTML>
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com

From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Wed May  7 20:54:30 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 22:54:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing
Message-ID: <01d801c8b0b6$d69b2f50$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

I'm writing to solicit opinions on clothing FOT proposes to offer in
conjunction with the 2008 Watkins Glen Kastner Cup.  The clothing will be
embroidered with FOT logos, and there will be FOT printed tee shirts with
original Triumph-inspired artwork .  What I'd like you to do is take a look at
the website (link below) and shoot me an email indicating what items you would
be interested in buying.  If you think I have missed the mark entirely let me
know that too.  We will be offering everything at cost of production.  Costs
are on the website.

Here are the parameters:
  1.. We are offering a) several clothing choices with the embroidered logo,
and b) high quality tee shirts (short and long sleeve if some of you want
both) with a five color ink silk screen design by Greg Petrolati, featuring an
"all Triumph race " illustration on the back and the FOT logo with the Prince
of Parkness mace fist, flags, helmet, laurels etc on the front
  2.. the embroidered logo will not, repeat not, be the five color logo
described above that you have seen  printed on previous tee shirts.
Unfortunately, it is too complicated to embroider in a 3" area on clothing.
The embroidered logo will be as shown on the website (link, below).  I am
hopeful the proposed design will satisfiy most of you - if there is universal
revulsion to it, hey, I have no artistic ego that will suffer - the embroidery
could consist simply of the words without the graphic.
  3.. We need to get orders for about 100 embroidered items (not 100 of the
same shirt, but total hats, shirts, etc) to have the embroidery done
  4.. We need about ten orders for each individual item to include them as
clothing choices.
  5.. We are not taking orders now.  This is only to determine interest or
lack thereof.  If, for example, only two people respond to this and say they
will buy a baseball cap, we won't offer that as a choice when it's time to
order.
  6.. Based on your responses I'll come up with a short list and be back at
you taking orders in the near term
  7.. Tee shirts - we do not have the artwork ready for you to see yet, so I
am not asking for indications of interest at this time.  Greg created the FOT
logo, so you know the tee shirt art will be great!  We'll follow up on this
later when we can show you the great design!
  8.. We are going to do pre-orders only.   Only orders recieved by a deadline
(to be determined) in advance of Watkins Glen will be produced.  There will
not be any items (except perhaps x-large tee shirts) that will be available
for purchase if you do not pre-order.
  9.. Ted Shumacher will be orchestrating the mfg and delivery process, so
anything you order can be paid for by credit card and shipped to you or picked
up from him at the Glen.
  10.. Traditional FOT logo - for those of you that are a big fan of this, as
I am,  if there is sufficient interest, this can be produced as a sew-on
patch.  Apparently the weaving process can make a much more detailed design.
Cost $7-$10
Here's the link.  This was the best way I could come up with to show you what
items look like.  Sorry I am not proficient enough to set it up so you can
vote right on the site, but simply send me a return email with an X next to
the item indicating your interest, using the list below.  Everything will be
available in the usual range of sizes.  Keep in mind that it is often cool at
the Glen in September.

http://www.freewebs.com/sjanzen/

Baseball Cap                    ____
Long Sleeve Denim Shirt   ____
Long Sleeve Twill Shirt      ____
Columbia Jacket              ____
Windshirt                        ____
Sew-on Patch                 ____

From budscars at comcast.net  Wed May  7 21:43:39 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 20:43:39 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
	<20080508025310.79674187665@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b0bd$b4b83de0$0302a8c0@Bud>

Great seats..I drive a 1990 Miata
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?


>I came out of the grocery store last year and someone was inspecting
> the seats in my Miata (of course my top was DOWN, the proper
> position, making inspection easy).  He was looking to see if they'd
> fit in a spridget.
>
> I LOVE the seats.  110,000 fairly hard miles (a trip without at least
> one sideways corner is a wasted trip) and they are holding up well.
>
> While the car is the same length at the TR-4, it's quite a bit wider
> so I'm sure there's a bit of finagling to get them to fit in the TR-4 or 
> TR-6.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 07:07 PM 5/7/2008, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a 
>>kit
>>of hardware and adapter plates.
>>
>>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>>candidates for the KIT.
>>
>>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser 
>>operations,
>>a little die work...likely stainless steel
>>
>>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street
>>cars in the
>>racing stables, too.
>>
>>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Joe   </HTML>
>>_______________________________________________
>>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Fot mailing list
>>Fot at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 

From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 07:32:56 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:32:56 EDT
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
Message-ID: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>

Moldex is building a new crank for us and they have called with a question.  
They want to talk us into just single oil passage to the rod and main  
journals. I'm of the cross drilled opinion.
 
What have the rest of you done?
 
Time is of the essence. They are waiting for an answer and already 2 months  
late.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Thu May  8 08:44:18 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:44:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <BLU127-W4436226E00159C77ACE3E88CD00@phx.gbl>

Joe Alexander wrote:

> Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
kit
> of hardware and adapter plates.

Miata seats are a good option.  Another good option are seats
from C4 Corvettes.  These are the hot items in Panteras, which
seem to have even less room than a TR.  Probably a bit more
expensive than a Miata, but some models come with motors to adjust
position, etc.

I have a German copy of the seats used in competition 914s.
Ferociously expensive, uncomfortable in typical German tradition,
but look the part and have great street cred.

Shane Ingate in NM

PS Starting electrical, and then insulation and drywall going into
the garagemahal.  Pam looked at it and said "It's bigger than a
house".  Heh, heh.

_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
messenger_052008

From rikrock at aol.com  Thu May  8 09:14:43 2008
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 11:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>
References: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA7F3560BC5677-11B8-17D2@webmail-me15.sysops.aol.com>

Dave didn't mention it, but I happen to know that it's a crank for a TR4 motor.? My thinking is that?a single oil hole for the main journals??is okay, but the rod journals?should be cross-drilled.

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: tony at tonydrews.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 2:32 pm
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling



Moldex is building a new crank for us and they have called with a question.  
They want to talk us into just single oil passage to the rod and main  
journals. I'm of the cross drilled opinion.
 
What have the rest of you done?
 
Time is of the essence. They are waiting for an answer and already 2 months  
late.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Thu May  8 09:15:43 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 11:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen Clothing
Message-ID: <002101c8b11e$6264af40$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

I should correct my email of last night and say that the embroidery will be on
the left breast pocket area, not right!

From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 09:49:42 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 11:49:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
Message-ID: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>

I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal  that 
carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to  
each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the rod  
journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set, what we 
are  refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.
 
Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two  on 
the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very  
small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right 
now  to look and confirm.
 
Am I making it clear now?




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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From britbits at netzero.com  Thu May  8 12:48:42 2008
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 13:48:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>

Joe,

How does what you're doing compare with some of the installs being done?  

As an example here is a link to Paul Teglers page on making Miata seats fit
a Spitfire:

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/miataseats/index.html


Just curious.


Jim
Dallas

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
kit of hardware and adapter plates.

Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
candidates for the KIT.

Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser
operations, a little die work...likely stainless steel

Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in
the racing stables, too.

(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)

Thanks,

Joe   </HTML>
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net

From rikrock at aol.com  Thu May  8 13:03:12 2008
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 15:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
References: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>

Not exactly;-)

When I say "cross-drilled journal", I'm?talking about?the holes you can easily SEE when you look at the crank.? I don't know what to call the hole (passageway)?inside the crank that carries the oil from the main journal to the rod journal.

So,?my??question is... if you were having a TR4 crank custom built, how many holes that you can easily SEE in the main and rod jounals?ought there? be?? 

Thanks!

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: Rikrock at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling




I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal that carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the rod journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set, what we are refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.

?

Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two on the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right now to look and confirm.

?

Am I making it clear now?





Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Thu May  8 13:15:34 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 14:15:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com> <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>
Message-ID: <200805081915.m48JFffW516965@ns3.geneseo.net>

Nice site. Good pictures and dimensions.

The kit we're preparing positions the seat in the TR4 and TR6 so that 
the seat clears the outside trim and also clears a Moss type harness 
end on the tunnel. The new kit bolts to the floor using all four 
stock holes in the floor, and bolts to the seats using the holes 
already in the Miata seat rails.

The only work necessary on the Miata seats is that the ends of the 
lower half of the seat adjuster rails must be bent out straight as if 
to lay flat on the floor, and a locator peg on the bottom of the 
Miata rails must be cut off. The bending can be done with a vise or 
large wrench and the locator pegs are a job for a hack saw or die 
grinder with cutoff wheel.

As nearly as I can measure it, the Miata cushions are one inch higher 
at the "sit bones" than the stock seats.

At 01:48 PM 5/8/2008, Jim wrote:
>Joe,
>
>How does what you're doing compare with some of the installs being done?
>
>As an example here is a link to Paul Teglers page on making Miata seats fit
>a Spitfire:
>
>http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/miataseats/index.html
>
>
>Just curious.
>
>
>Jim
>Dallas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
>[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>N197TR4 at cs.com
>Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:07 PM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
>kit of hardware and adapter plates.
>
>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>candidates for the KIT.
>
>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser
>operations, a little die work...likely stainless steel
>
>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in
>the racing stables, too.
>
>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe   </HTML>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as vinttr4 at geneseo.net

uncle jack 

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu May  8 15:18:12 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:18:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>
References: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
	<8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <005201c8b151$06713950$9201a8c0@richardiipc>

I'm looking at the broken-off piece of my TR-4 crankshaft. It broke right
where it is supposed to, at the #3 throw.

The rear main journal has one hole about the size of a 5.5mm Allen wrench
angling in toward the throw. The #4 rod journal has a similar sized hole
running all the way across creating two oiling ports. There is also a
smaller (2mm Allen wrench) that goes half way through. It is on the outboard
side of the journal but apparently ends in the cross-drilled passageway,
thus creating a third, much smaller, oiling point.

When I backed out the Allen nut that appears to be an inspection port, there
is a batch of pasty grey stuff that looks like a bearing emulsion. 

Hope this helps.



Richard  L. Taylor, Jr.,  FAIA


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rikrock at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:03 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling

Not exactly;-)

When I say "cross-drilled journal", I'm?talking about?the holes you can
easily SEE when you look at the crank.? I don't know what to call the hole
(passageway)?inside the crank that carries the oil from the main journal to
the rod journal.

So,?my??question is... if you were having a TR4 crank custom built, how many
holes that you can easily SEE in the main and rod jounals?ought there? be?? 

Thanks!

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: Rikrock at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling




I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal that
carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to
each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the
rod journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set,
what we are refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.

?

Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two on
the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very
small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right
now to look and confirm.

?

Am I making it clear now?





Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as tarch at bellsouth.net

From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 16:02:05 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 18:02:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A  little 
more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I  
have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May  8 16:10:18 2008
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:10:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
In-Reply-To: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?

I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes
me want to drive around wearing my helmet.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of DSPGTi at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A
little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300

Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
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From budscars at comcast.net  Thu May  8 17:10:34 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 16:10:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <00c301c8b160$b90d1c00$0302a8c0@Bud>

Very interesting....do any racecars use airbags?...Why or why not?..(I'm not 
speaking of the airbag Driving)
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
> anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes
> me want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A
> little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
> plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 

From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Thu May  8 18:09:01 2008
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 18:09:01 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <20080508.180901.3328.2.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

Airbag deployment timing is extremely critical. Too soon, useless. Too
late, probably do more damage then not having it. Filming an airbag
deployment at normal speed, it will probably not contain a single frame
of the fully inflated bag.
Frontal airbags in the steering wheel tend to break the neck of drivers
in full face helmets.
How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar?  
Just a few thoughts,
Bill

On Thu, 8 May 2008 17:10:18 -0500 "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
writes:
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
> anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
> 
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of 
> my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  
> Makes
> me want to drive around wearing my helmet.
> 
> Scott B.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
> 
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. 
> A
> little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
> plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
> 
> Dave Y.
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists 
> on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as wgrosenbach at juno.com

From britbits at netzero.com  Thu May  8 18:14:47 2008
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 19:14:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <004201c8b169$b2fa7520$92701342@jrg>

Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
shift lever, aka 007?

I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from danger.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
'76 DM Spitfire
and too many other toys 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barr,
Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?

I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes me
want to drive around wearing my helmet.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DSPGTi at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A little
more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300

Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
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From spreiss at verizon.net  Thu May  8 04:00:21 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 21:00:21 +1100
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts
Message-ID: <001401c8b0f2$5425d980$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

I'm trying to replace the motor mounts while I have the pan off. I have
unbolted both front mounts from the frame, as well as removed the nuts and
washers from the studs on top of the mount, but when I try to raise the engine
with the jack (and wood block) the whole front of the car wants to come up
with it. I thought the engine/trans would tip up the inch or so that would
appear enough to drop the mount out and I could do a quick change. I first
tried lifting with a cross block, both sides together. I have also shifted to
one side only. Could someone please tell me what I am missing?
Steve P.

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:10:44 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 03:10:44 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <050920080310.19392.4823C0B40003B89800004BC02200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: William G Rosenbach <wgrosenbach at juno.com> 

> How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar? 

SCCA requires airbags to be de-activated in showroom classes.

Irv Korey

From budscars at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:27:58 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 20:27:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <050920080310.19392.4823C0B40003B89800004BC02200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001701c8b184$adfdf400$0302a8c0@Bud>

Thanks friend..I hadn't even thought of that.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "William G Rosenbach" <wgrosenbach at juno.com>; <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: William G Rosenbach <wgrosenbach at juno.com> 
> 
>> How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar? 
> 
> SCCA requires airbags to be de-activated in showroom classes.
> 
> Irv Korey
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net

From kaskas at cox.net  Thu May  8 21:36:29 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 20:36:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<004201c8b169$b2fa7520$92701342@jrg>
Message-ID: <00d101c8b185$de19ab10$3a16c548@RW>

Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing, 
not selling shoes at K Mart.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com>
To: "'Barr, Scott'" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
> shift lever, aka 007?
>
> I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
> traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from 
> danger.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire
> and too many other toys
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Barr,
> Scott
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
>
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
> considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes 
> me
> want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A 
> little
> more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
> have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
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> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 

From dave at microworks.net  Thu May  8 22:09:35 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 21:09:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Cool Videos
Message-ID: <20080509040958.QIKY10668.fed1rmmtao107.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>

http://www.itv-f1.com/VideoWorldwide.aspx

ITV (the F! broadcaster in Britain) has some cool videos on their site.

Martin Brundle and Martin Blundell drive some old F1 machinery round 
Silverstone like Jim Clark's Lotus 49 and a 250F.  Very cool

Love the video of him throwing the 250F around the track on three wheels

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Fri May  9 05:42:13 2008
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 06:42:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74BA3AB8@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

<<Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing>>

I was talking about the car I drive on the street.  We were talking about Miata seats, which I doubt people are putting in their race cars, either.
 
Frankly, I feel safer on the track than I do driving around on the street among the meandering behemoths, preoccupied with chatting with their kids, dialing their phones and fiddling with their navigation systems.



----- Original Message -----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net <fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net>
To: britbits at netzero.com <britbits at netzero.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu May 08 22:36:29 2008
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing, 
not selling shoes at K Mart.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com>
To: "'Barr, Scott'" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
> shift lever, aka 007?
>
> I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
> traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from 
> danger.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire
> and too many other toys
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Barr,
> Scott
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
>
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
> considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes 
> me
> want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A 
> little
> more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
> have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 
_______________________________________________
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You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com

From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  9 07:58:11 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 06:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <144784.19989.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Amen to that brother! The folks next to you on the racetrack were vetted by
instructors at some point before they got next to you so you can (usually)
expect at least some situational awareness. Even the Spec Miatas don't
tailgate as closely as Chicago traffic.
Plus there are no Hummers.
Gary
Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: "Barr, Scott"
<sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: kaskas at cox.net; britbits at netzero.com
Cc:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2008 6:42:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

<<Air bags? What the hell are you thinking
? If you are racing you are racing>>

I was talking about the car I drive on
the street.  We were talking about Miata seats, which I doubt people are
putting in their race cars, either.

Frankly, I feel safer on the track than I
do driving around on the street among the meandering behemoths, preoccupied
with chatting with their kids, dialing their phones and fiddling with their
navigation systems.

From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  9 08:14:35 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 07:14:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts
Message-ID: <678006.7493.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On my TR4 the bell housing is so close to the firewall that the back of the trans has to drop before the engine can go up. Check for the top of the bell housing hitting the tunnel. If the engine won't even rock the inch to free one side's mount, you may need to remove the rear trans mount.
Also if sitting on the tires, lifting up a ~600# lump of iron unloads the suspension so much the car comes up inches from that alone.
Hope this helps.
Gary Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: Steven Preiss <spreiss at verizon.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2008 5:00:21 AM
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts

I'm trying to replace the motor mounts while I have the pan off. I have
unbolted both front mounts from the frame, as well as removed the nuts and
washers from the studs on top of the mount, but when I try to raise the engine
with the jack (and wood block) the whole front of the car wants to come up
with it. I thought the engine/trans would tip up the inch or so that would
appear enough to drop the mount out and I could do a quick change. I first
tried lifting with a cross block, both sides together. I have also shifted to
one side only. Could someone please tell me what I am missing?
Steve P.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as garygret at sbcglobal.net

From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Fri May  9 09:37:26 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 08:37:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48246FB6.8050703@cyberspeedway.net>

     Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street 
seats have plenty of "road holding weight".

Greg Lund

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri May  9 11:40:00 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 13:40:00 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Triumph      Scrapers & Windage Trays
Message-ID: <be4.2f32b8b7.3555e670@cs.com>

Purchase Group:

Nearly 30 systems were placed in order with I - J  this morning and accepted. 

The Group Savings was about $900.

The Flate Rate for Shipping, Insurance, etc is $15.50 for the scrapers and 
$24.50 for the scraper and/or windage tray.

Lead Time from acceptance of order is about (4) Weeks. If there is a 
'hardship' order, please let me know, and I will see what I can do. Mark your 
calendars at about the 10th of June.

At the acceptance of the order, the charges for this order went to my 
Alexander Racing Visa Card.

I will Invoice each of you by mail with a hard copy. Due Immediately. I'll 
likely send these out on Monday.

Questions about installation, and such, should come to me.

Thank you very much....Joe A

   </HTML>

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May  9 13:59:17 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 15:59:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Commercial  message - Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4824AD15.9070809@bright.net>

Hello list. Just a follow-up to our previous announcement about Import 
Carlisle.  I will be there Thursday afternoon through about 4 pm 
Saturday, spaces D80 & 81. If there is something you want me to bring 
along, please let me know. Packing will take place Wednesday so we need 
any orders as soon as we can. Will have usual stock of stainless steel 
braid brake lines, gear reduction starters, springs and other suspension 
components, etc. Also some used engines, including Rover 3.9 short 
blocks, gearboxes and other "stuff". Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Fri May  9 16:10:20 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 17:10:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
Message-ID: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

Hi Gang,

 

In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.

 

I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?

 

I am starting to get things together to build another engine.

 

Mike

From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Fri May  9 16:42:54 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 18:42:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs
Message-ID: <BLU127-W5448459576FDBDA1AA381C8CD30@phx.gbl>

Greg Lund wrote:

> Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street
> seats have plenty of "road holding weight".

I tried fitting Corbeau Clubmans before going with the 914 seats.
I found that the shoulder "ears" (or whatever you call those
things that keep your upper body in place) fouled with the B post.
The only way around it was to move the seat inwards towards the
driveshaft tunnel (which increases the offset to the pedals) or
bending the "ear" to provide clearance.  I did not want to own
the seats, so I did not do the bendy-thing.

There is zero chance of fitting Corbeau Clubmans (I tried the "narrow"
style - there is a larger version for those with larger posteriors)
in both driver and passenger locations, again because of interference
between the "ears".

Kirkey aluminum seats fit well, but are lousy for those 500-mile days.

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob
ile_052008

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri May  9 19:10:24 2008
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 19:10:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil thrower
Message-ID: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>

Question: when the oil thrower is in it's final position is it supposed to
be engaged with a woodruff key

or should it float on the crank ? Mine seems to want to reside between the
two woodruff keys.

Thanks for the help,

Jim G

From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May  9 19:35:45 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 20:35:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil thrower
In-Reply-To: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>
References: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080510013618.21E75187677@autox.team.net>

It goes between the keys.  The slot is so you can get it over the 
outer key to its' "home" position.

- Tony

At 08:10 PM 5/9/2008, Jim Gray wrote:
>Question: when the oil thrower is in it's final position is it supposed to
>be engaged with a woodruff key
>
>or should it float on the crank ? Mine seems to want to reside between the
>two woodruff keys.
>
>Thanks for the help,
>
>Jim G
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com

From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Sat May 10 08:52:18 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 10:52:18 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <bda.29833c57.355710a2@aol.com>

A few years ago, I had my machinist redo the head on my engine.  I had used
this head for a number of seasons.  After he installed some nice looking skinny
stainless steel seats, reworked the valves, etc., he gently skimmed the face
to clean it up.  This last operation exposed some very faint hairline cracks
where a piston had come up and smacked the head.

While I was using this head, I was getting all sorts of burping to the catch
tank after coming in off of the track.  The fluid would always suck back out
of the catch tank as the engine cooled.  As a result, I was never suspicious of
the cracks, though I did seem to run hotter than normal.

With the present engine head, the coolant remains cooler and rarely goes to
the catch tank.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new
twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May 10 10:37:15 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:37:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

> Hi Gang,
>
>
>
> In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
> Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.
>
>
>
> I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
> pistons or do you know a good source?
>
>
>
> I am starting to get things together to build another engine.
>
>
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Sat May 10 13:40:04 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 14:40:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
	<8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

Thanks Chuck,

It sounds like you have had some trials also.

 

It appears that the locknut on the rocker worked loose. The tappet and
pushrod rotate in the direction that will tighten the valve adjuster which
will close up the tolerance. Then all hell breaks loose, valve head hits
piston, breaking off head then the head floats around in top of cylinder,
wreaking all sorts of havoc.

 

I wonder if I could mix them with my Arias if the weight and pit to deck
height is the same.

That is something to think about.

 

Mike

 

 

  

 

  _____  

From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Mike Munson
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

 

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi Gang,



In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.



I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?



I am starting to get things together to build another engine.



Mike
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




-- 
Chuck Arnold

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Sun May 11 09:21:35 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:21:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2><8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
	<000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
Message-ID: <001e01c8b37a$b39975e0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>

In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods (TR-4)
floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve open so it
blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and straightened
it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer. 

Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the trailer and
drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no funny noises
and typical power.

If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is just fine. 

Any foreboding warnings out there?

Richard  


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Munson
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 3:40 PM
To: 'Chuck Arnold'
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

Thanks Chuck,

It sounds like you have had some trials also.

 

It appears that the locknut on the rocker worked loose. The tappet and
pushrod rotate in the direction that will tighten the valve adjuster which
will close up the tolerance. Then all hell breaks loose, valve head hits
piston, breaking off head then the head floats around in top of cylinder,
wreaking all sorts of havoc.

 

I wonder if I could mix them with my Arias if the weight and pit to deck
height is the same.

That is something to think about.

 

Mike

 

 

  

 

  _____  

From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Mike Munson
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

 

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi Gang,



In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.



I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?



I am starting to get things together to build another engine.



Mike
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




-- 
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as tarch at bellsouth.net

From BillDentin at aol.com  Sun May 11 11:38:42 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 13:38:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
Message-ID: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/11/2008 10:23:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tarch at bellsouth.net writes:


> In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods (TR-4)
> floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve open so it
> blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and straightened
> it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer. 
> 
> Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the trailer and
> drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no funny noises
> and typical power.
> 
> If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is just fine. 
> 
> Any foreboding warnings out there?
> 

Richard...

Unbelievable!  

Do you mind telling me what church do you go to?  

I may want to change.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From SpiwakD at aol.com  Sun May 11 15:00:21 2008
From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:00:21 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
Message-ID: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>

I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to  
put the bafflles and what size flow holes?



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun May 11 15:40:55 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 21:40:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
In-Reply-To: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>
References: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1520299244-1210542127-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-156840865-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I recently looked into this for my tr3.  Cambridge motorsport has an interesting one on their website.  It works with their alum sump.  L-brackets needed to be made to adapt it to the old factory alum sump (which I use.)
Kevin from I-J made me a baffle to go along with my scraper-windage tray setup. Which is soon to arrive.  It is only one baffle which works for fore-aft movement.  The cambridge unit looks like more of a grid.  My car ran for years trouble-free with nothing in the sump but oil.  I can send pics if you want of kevin johnson's new parts.  I bet he can make you whatever you want but it could take a while as he's super busy.

Steve b
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: SpiwakD at aol.com

Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:00:21 
To:fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info


I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to  
put the bafflles and what size flow holes?



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
_______________________________________________
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From spreiss at verizon.net  Sun May 11 02:06:12 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 19:06:12 +1100
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
Message-ID: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know that
the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to bend.
In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod. Seems
like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided it!
Steve P.

From spreiss at verizon.net  Sun May 11 06:02:16 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
Message-ID: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
(with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the crank?
If so, any tips or cautions?
Steve P.

From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Sun May 11 22:30:27 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 21:30:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs]
Message-ID: <4827C7E3.4010309@cyberspeedway.net>

Shane,
     I attached the photos of the the Clubman seats installed in my 6. I
think the seats you tried must be a different model from mine or Corbeau
has changed them. I did offset them to the center of the car as much as
possible but moving the polar moment closer to the center of the car is
   always good.

Greg Lund

Shane Ingate wrote:
> Greg Lund wrote:
>  
>> Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street 
>> seats have plenty of "road holding weight".
> 
> I tried fitting Corbeau Clubmans before going with the 914 seats.
> I found that the shoulder "ears" (or whatever you call those 
> things that keep your upper body in place) fouled with the B post.
> The only way around it was to move the seat inwards towards the 
> driveshaft tunnel (which increases the offset to the pedals) or 
> bending the "ear" to provide clearance.  I did not want to own  
> the seats, so I did not do the bendy-thing.
> 
> There is zero chance of fitting Corbeau Clubmans (I tried the "narrow"
> style - there is a larger version for those with larger posteriors)
> in both driver and passenger locations, again because of interference 
> between the "ears".
> 
> Kirkey aluminum seats fit well, but are lousy for those 500-mile days.
> 
> Shane Ingate in NM
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
> http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mobile_052008

From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 08:15:21 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 10:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Corbeau Clubman seats
In-Reply-To: <4827C577.3030707@cyberspeedway.net>
References: <BLU127-W5448459576FDBDA1AA381C8CD30@phx.gbl>
	<4827C577.3030707@cyberspeedway.net>
Message-ID: <BLU127-W39BBBB9ADD5BD7514DB0658CCC0@phx.gbl>

Amici,

Last week I wrote of the impossibility of fitting Corbeau Clubmans in my
TR.  I made a mistake; I was referring to Corbeau Forza seats that are
quite a deal wider than the Clubman.  The Clubmans do fit and look quite
good in a TR.

My apologies.  I call it a "senior moment".

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
1.
http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner

From gasket.works at verizon.net  Mon May 12 09:44:15 2008
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MDunst/Gasket Works)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:44:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
Message-ID: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>

Group'

David Cizmas would like to participate in the FOT.   His bio is below.  Can
someone second this fellow please.

M




From: david cizmas
To: MDunst/Gasket Works
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Membership


      MDunst,
       I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car.  I
purchased the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I plan
to get it on the track this year.  Over the past few years I have been racing
VW Golfs in ITB and GP at Waterford Hills Road Racing course in MI.  Also, I
own a 1975 TR6 for my summer leisure driving.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 10:05:56 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:05:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
In-Reply-To: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>
References: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W47BE966A498ED74A32AE09BACC0@phx.gbl>

Second. We can always use more TR6's to try and balance things out.

Marty



> Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:44:15 -0700> From: gasket.works at verizon.net> To:
fot at autox.team.net> Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request> > Group'> > David
Cizmas would like to participate in the FOT. His bio is below. Can> someone
second this fellow please.> > M> > > > > From: david cizmas> To: MDunst/Gasket
Works> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:42 PM> Subject: Re: Membership> > >
MDunst,> I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car. I>
purchased the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I
plan> to get it on the track this year. Over the past few years I have been
racing> VW Golfs in ITB and GP at Waterford Hills Road Racing course in MI.
Also, I> own a 1975 TR6 for my summer leisure driving.>
_______________________________________________>
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Fot mailing list> Fot at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot> > You are subscribed as
trmarty at hotmail.com
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From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 10:15:15 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:15:15 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
Message-ID: <c37.2dd1e931.3559c713@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/12/08 7:43:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gasket.works at verizon.net writes:

<< I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car.  I  purchase
d the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I plan  to get 
it on the track this year >>

I will second Dave Cizmas.  Dave Wingett's TR-6 traveled very rapidly at
Nelson Ledges a few years ago.  At that time, he told me that he had too much
over-steer.  Maybe that is what caused him to crash it.  
**************
Wondering
what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 12 10:58:55 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 09:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>
References: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AD5FAA5-4954-49B2-87BE-6C31F3336BD3@bnj.com>

That's one of those questions you ask when you already know the answer  
but don't like it.

On May 11, 2008, at 10:38 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 05/11/2008 10:23:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tarch at bellsouth.net writes:
>
>
>> In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods  
>> (TR-4)
>> floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve  
>> open so it
>> blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and  
>> straightened
>> it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer.
>>
>> Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the  
>> trailer and
>> drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no  
>> funny noises
>> and typical power.
>>
>> If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is  
>> just fine.
>>
>> Any foreboding warnings out there?
>>
>
> Richard...
>
> Unbelievable!
>
> Do you mind telling me what church do you go to?
>
> I may want to change.
>
> Bill Dentinger
>
>
>
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 16:11:14 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:11:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
Message-ID: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/11/08 2:00:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SpiwakD at aol.com
writes:

<< I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to   
 put the baffles and what size flow holes? >>

My baffled oil pan is not very fancy.  I added two baffles at two different
levels in the front of a stock oil pan, based on Greg Solow's recommendations.
I anchored them from the windage plate using 1/4" all-thread rods.

I believe that most of my recent reliability has come from the following:

-Using Greg's flat faced oil pump pickup, with the screen on the bottom.
(Pain pulling off the oil pan from underneath the car, but doable.)
-Installing his oil cooler sandwich, and placing the oil cooler in front of
the radiator.
-Connecting the accusump to the center oil galley port.

I know.  There are all sorts of fancy baffled oil sumps out there with trap
doors (which can stick).
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
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From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 16:33:14 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:33:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
Message-ID: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/11/08 8:05:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
spreiss at verizon.net writes:

<< Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine  (
with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the crank?  If
 so, any tips or cautions?  Steve P. >>

It is very easy to change out thrust washers from under the car.  Half of
both thrust washers come out when removing the center main bearing cap.  You ca
n
normally rotate the new upper half of the thrust washer into the grove while
the old thrust washer rotates out.

I would be surprised if you get both of the 0.005" thrust washers in.  I have
used one oversize thrust washer and one stock size thrust washer to reduce
end play.  At one time, I believe that you could buy 0.003" and 0.004" size
thrust washers.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists
on family favorites at AOL Food.

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From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 12 17:20:21 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:20:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
In-Reply-To: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>
References: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81D64E26-651F-40FC-A637-33F290E7E4C8@bnj.com>

Of the three I suspect the accusump is the biggest deal. I've done the  
same thing--connected my accusump to the oil galley, and fundamentally  
never have less than 40 or so pounds pressure there. Bound to be  
better than the occasional zero.

On May 12, 2008, at 3:11 PM, WEmery7451 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/11/08 2:00:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SpiwakD at aol.com
> writes:
>
> << I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows  
> where to
> put the baffles and what size flow holes? >>
>
> My baffled oil pan is not very fancy.  I added two baffles at two  
> different
> levels in the front of a stock oil pan, based on Greg Solow's  
> recommendations.
> I anchored them from the windage plate using 1/4" all-thread rods.
>
> I believe that most of my recent reliability has come from the  
> following:
>
> -Using Greg's flat faced oil pump pickup, with the screen on the  
> bottom.
> (Pain pulling off the oil pan from underneath the car, but doable.)
> -Installing his oil cooler sandwich, and placing the oil cooler in  
> front of
> the radiator.
> -Connecting the accusump to the center oil galley port.
>
> I know.  There are all sorts of fancy baffled oil sumps out there  
> with trap
> doors (which can stick).
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From spreiss at verizon.net  Mon May 12 03:00:00 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:00:00 +1100
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
References: <2ABDAB0C.0EBC793D.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<005901c8b444$e5153fd0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>
Message-ID: <006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Ted Schumaker of TSI Automotive also sells them (any length) and at a very
reasonable price.
S.P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; "'"Steven Preiss"'" <spreiss at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod


>
>
> What is the source for the recommended light-weight, high strength, hot
dog
> pushrod?
>
> RT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:15 PM
> To: "Steven Preiss"; "Richard Taylor"
> Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod
>
> Richard,
>
> I think we are assuming that you will change the bent push rod and check
the
> rest, as Steve suggests.
>
> Joe
>
> >I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
> >possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know
> that
> >the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to
> bend.
> >In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
> >adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
> >Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod.
Seems
> >like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided
> it!
> >Steve P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Fot mailing list
> >Fot at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 12 19:50:00 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:50:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [Thicko] Mosport VARAC Festival
In-Reply-To: <8E24061A09DC35498F658A7E25FA9E8707FEF498@dunn.pembroke.loc al>
References: <8E24061A09DC35498F658A7E25FA9E8707FEF498@dunn.pembroke.local>
Message-ID: <200805130150.m4D1o6J2382390@ns3.geneseo.net>

Keith Files is coming over from the UK to run this event in his 
ex-Sebring TR4, supported by Joe Alexander. Tony Drews will be 
running his Red Rocket TR4 supported by Jack Drews unless Jack gets 
his act together along with getting his car together to race against 
those two worthies.

At 07:34 PM 5/12/2008, Daniel Thompson wrote:
>Great event! Who is coming up this year?
>
>www.varac.ca
>
>
>
>Daniel Thompson
>GBC Asset Management Inc.
>514-848-0716
>_______________________________________________

uncle jack 

From billsohl at optonline.net  Mon May 12 20:18:15 2008
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:18:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
Message-ID: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>

I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest issue, they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards for editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.

Congratulations Mike.


Bill Sohl

From spreiss at verizon.net  Mon May 12 05:36:40 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:36:40 +1100
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Thanks, and thanks to all who have responded.
All that's left is to find out the stock thickness, and to measure what's in
there now to determine what thickness to order. Anyone know the stock
thickness? (Currently the endplay measures .012" using a feeler guage.)
S.P.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Fred & Mary Hodgson
  To: Steven Preiss
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [Fot] thrust washer replacement


  Steve-

  It can be done in-car without any great tribulation.  Drop the center main
cap & push the upper halves around one at a time(one out, one in, repeat).  Be
sure to check your end float with a dial indicator.  You may have to mix &
match standard & oversize to get the desired clearance.  If that turns out to
be the case, always put the heavier thrust washer to the rear as that's the
one that gets the most loading from stepping on the clutch.

  Fred Hodgson





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

  > Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
  > From: spreiss at verizon.net
  > To: fot at autox.team.net
  > Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
  >
  > Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
  > (with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
crank?
  > If so, any tips or cautions?
  > Steve P.
  > _______________________________________________
  > http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  >
  > You are subscribed as stlnyc at msn.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 12 23:12:45 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:12:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
In-Reply-To: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <390A74188789494A85E7E4699A4791A8@Mobil>

I would suppose that a stock push rod bends at too high load.
Maybe there was an over reving incident during race or testing that 
dislocated the ball joint, caused by not enough spring load for this high 
revolution. The next lift of the cam blocked the sping and bended the rod.

Hope this helps!

Cheers
Chris 

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 12 23:30:43 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:30:43 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter
In-Reply-To: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27><BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
	<001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <F45A748729C44EC0971A03953A0327AF@Mobil>

After I had some races I found out that the stock rev counter is too 
unprecise and does tend to wave on bumps.

I implanted a electronic device to the stock housing and printed a new scale 
on a CD lable sticker kit and fit this on the scale of the stock rev 
counter.

As electronic device I used a Porsche 924 rev counter. It has a 100mm scale 
and can handle the long Triumph pointer with ease.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Chris 

From kaskas at cox.net  Tue May 13 00:04:00 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:04:00 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27><BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl><001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<F45A748729C44EC0971A03953A0327AF@Mobil>
Message-ID: <007301c8b4bf$23751cd0$3a16c548@RW>

I've seen your label for the rev counter, and it is great looking
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter


> After I had some races I found out that the stock rev counter is too
> unprecise and does tend to wave on bumps.
>
> I implanted a electronic device to the stock housing and printed a new 
> scale
> on a CD lable sticker kit and fit this on the scale of the stock rev
> counter.
>
> As electronic device I used a Porsche 924 rev counter. It has a 100mm 
> scale
> and can handle the long Triumph pointer with ease.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Tue May 13 07:15:23 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:15:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
In-Reply-To: <006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <2ABDAB0C.0EBC793D.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<005901c8b444$e5153fd0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>
	<006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <001501c8b4fb$67bf9960$6401a8c0@richardiipc>

Now I'm wondering if my pushrod length could be the culprit for it jumping
out of the rocker socket. What's the drill for determining the proper
length?

RT


Subject: Re: [Fot] bent pushrod

Ted Schumaker of TSI Automotive also sells them (any length) and at a very
reasonable price.
S.P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; "'"Steven Preiss"'" <spreiss at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod


>
>
> What is the source for the recommended light-weight, high strength, hot
dog
> pushrod?
>
> RT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:15 PM
> To: "Steven Preiss"; "Richard Taylor"
> Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod
>
> Richard,
>
> I think we are assuming that you will change the bent push rod and check
the
> rest, as Steve suggests.
>
> Joe
>
> >I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
> >possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know
> that
> >the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to
> bend.
> >In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
> >adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
> >Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod.
Seems
> >like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided
> it!
> >Steve P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Fot mailing list
> >Fot at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue May 13 07:34:45 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:34:45 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
Message-ID: <c42.31098020.355af2f5@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/12/2008 9:33:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
billsohl at optonline.net writes:


> I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest 
> issue, they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These 
> awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club 
> publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards for 
> editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the 
> Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.
> 
> Congratulations Mike.
> 

AMEN to that, and no surprise, I might add.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From igofaster at charter.net  Tue May 13 09:17:14 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 8:17:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12249.1210685642.1200.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080513111714.GZFB0.727613.root@fepweb13>

Just a note to share about John Esposito @ Quantum Mechanics. I called last friday and spoke to John about my transmission. We have a CVAR event at Eagles Canyon this weekend... I really needed to get my transmission back. John informed me that he had not gotten on it sooner, and per my previous discussions, he was going to warranty the gearbox and send it back, no charge.
I wasn't comfortable with that and insisted I send him SOMETHING for doing the right thing.
Once again, John OVERNIGHTED my tranny and it's setting on my counter here at work.
Can't say enough about a guy in this day and age, that went beyond expectations, and without a doubt, did the right thing!

Now... stabbing the tranny back into the GT6 tonight, hoping for the best... I sure would like to be racin' this weekend.... 
to FoT members going to ECR this weekend, I'm going up thursday afternoon. I don't think Bob Kramer is coming with the TR4...   anybody else?
Bobby Whitehead
#54 YELLOW CVAR TRIUMPH GT6+

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 13 10:19:55 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 16:19:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <1900855701-1210695666-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2597493-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have a tank full of race gas.  The gas is now 6 mos. old.  My next event isn't foe 2 or 3 months.  May I give this stuff to a friend with a very hot street car, a camaro with a 502 crate V8? Or for that matter any street car with no cat??
Could I leave it in and race with old gas?

Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Tue May 13 12:26:57 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:26:57 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <c07.360a0692.355b3771@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/13/08 9:21:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
colordog.1 at earthlink.net writes:

<<   I have a tank full of race gas.  The gas is now 6 mos. old.  My next event
 isn't foe 2 or 3 months.  May I give this stuff to a friend with a very hot st
reet car, a camera with a 502 crate V8? Or for that matter any street car with 
no cat??  Could I leave it in and race with old gas? >>

Unless you like to flush money down the commode, race with it.  I have used
older gas than this, and it didn't seem to make a difference.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 13 12:44:22 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 18:44:22 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <2010168876-1210704336-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1557546584-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

It's hot-pink and smells like race fuel.  I'll use it.  

Steve
------Original Message------
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com
To: colordog.1 at earthlink.net
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: May 13, 2008 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Race gas

In a message dated 5/13/08 9:21:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time, colordog.1 at earthlink.net writes: > Unless you like to flush money down the commode, race with it. I have used older gas than this, and it didn't seem to make a difference. 


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.
 (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Tue May 13 12:56:04 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:56:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Seat Height
Message-ID: <4829E444.4080603@cyberspeedway.net>

Group,

     While on the subject of seats there were some changes in the Snell 
2005 rating which made the helmet taller and caught some guys with the 
2" above the roll cage rule. If you have height trouble take a look at 
lowering the seat. You don't need to see directly in front of the car. 
Mounting the seat directly on the floor sometimes helps. You can also 
take advantage of the "driver comfort" statement in the PCS and move the 
floor down with a hammer if there is no frame in the way. Unfortunately 
that driver comfort thing has always been open to interpretation - I 
think 12" wide rubber would be lot more comfortable.

Greg Lund

From johnkipping at inet.net.nz  Tue May 13 20:09:27 2008
From: johnkipping at inet.net.nz (John Kipping)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 14:09:27 +1200
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
In-Reply-To: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
	<001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <482A49D7.5010909@inet.net.nz>

Most people only sell thrusts in pairs - order a standard set and a 
+.005 set and you'll be fine. It's normal to fit one standard and one at 
+.005.

Steven Preiss wrote:
> Thanks, and thanks to all who have responded.
> All that's left is to find out the stock thickness, and to measure what's in
> there now to determine what thickness to order. Anyone know the stock
> thickness? (Currently the endplay measures .012" using a feeler guage.)
> S.P.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Fred & Mary Hodgson
>   To: Steven Preiss
>   Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:58 PM
>   Subject: RE: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
>
>
>   Steve-
>
>   It can be done in-car without any great tribulation.  Drop the center main
> cap & push the upper halves around one at a time(one out, one in, repeat).  Be
> sure to check your end float with a dial indicator.  You may have to mix &
> match standard & oversize to get the desired clearance.  If that turns out to
> be the case, always put the heavier thrust washer to the rear as that's the
> one that gets the most loading from stepping on the clutch.
>
>   Fred Hodgson
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
>   > Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
>   > From: spreiss at verizon.net
>   > To: fot at autox.team.net
>   > Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
>   >
>   > Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
>   > (with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
> crank?
>   > If so, any tips or cautions?
>   > Steve P.
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>   >
>   > Fot mailing list
>   > Fot at autox.team.net
>   > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>   >
>   > You are subscribed as stlnyc at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as johnkipping at inet.net.nz

From mlcooknj at msn.com  Tue May 13 20:32:22 2008
From: mlcooknj at msn.com (michael cook)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:32:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
In-Reply-To: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>
References: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>
Message-ID: <BAY142-W451C0738FC17F01A67EE41C8CE0@phx.gbl>

Bill-

Thanks for the congratulations and for spreading the word. I got my copy of
Old Cars Weekly todayThanks to other FOT folks who sent messages.

There's two other Triumph guys who deserve congratulations. The 6-Pack
magazine made the list,
edited by Todd Bermudez.

Also, Snic Braaapp of the Illinois Sports Owners Association, edited by Bob
Streepy!

Hope to see you at NJTA in a couple of weeks.

Mike


Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:18:15 -0400From: billsohl at optonline.netSubject: 2007
Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill AwardsTo: fot at autox.team.net;
bdischer at blakedischer.com; rbtr3a at cox.net; wrsmith at multipro.comCC:
mlcooknj at msn.com; tr_jag at yahoo.com



I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest issue,
they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These
awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club
publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards
for editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the
Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.

Congratulations Mike.


Bill Sohl

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May 14 10:16:19 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 09:16:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>

Being lazy and not trying to look it up.  What is the SCCA required diameter
of the inspection hole in the roll cage bar?
thanks,

Chuck Arnold

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Wed May 14 18:43:59 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 19:43:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002701c8b624$c3b16580$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

I'm pretty sure its 3/16th because that's what mine are.
It's been through many inspections.



Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 11:16 AM
To: Friends
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size

Being lazy and not trying to look it up.  What is the SCCA required diameter
of the inspection hole in the roll cage bar?
thanks,

Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as fasttrs at mindspring.com

From jibjib at att.net  Wed May 14 19:13:59 2008
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 18:13:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
In-Reply-To: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>
References: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c8b628$f502fd20$cb01a8c0@HPPavilion>

If the 0.005's are too thick, the back of each bearing (the steel part, not
the bearing face) can be lapped down several thou, with fine sandpaper and a
flat surface.

Jack 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WEmery7451 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 3:33 PM
To: spreiss at verizon.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] thrust washer replacement

In a message dated 5/11/08 8:05:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
spreiss at verizon.net writes:

<< Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
( with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
crank?  If  so, any tips or cautions?  Steve P. >>

It is very easy to change out thrust washers from under the car.  Half of
both thrust washers come out when removing the center main bearing cap.  You
ca n normally rotate the new upper half of the thrust washer into the grove
while the old thrust washer rotates out.

I would be surprised if you get both of the 0.005" thrust washers in.  I
have used one oversize thrust washer and one stock size thrust washer to
reduce end play.  At one time, I believe that you could buy 0.003" and
0.004" size thrust washers.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.

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You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net

From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Thu May 15 06:41:21 2008
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (sgroh1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:41:21 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
Message-ID: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>

FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas for a good paddock space with power hook-up?

Thanks!

Steve Groh
SVRA #393
63 Spitfire

From jsnook at wcnet.org  Thu May 15 07:15:49 2008
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:15:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
References: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003901c8b68d$cbb65fb0$6701a8c0@JeffSnook>

Hi Steve, I'll be there, but racing my Lotus and not the TR3.  I usually
paddock in the grass paddock area and there is no electrical hookups there as
far as I know.  I believe to get power you need to be near the garages.

Vroom, vroom,

Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: sgroh1 at comcast.net
  To: fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:41 AM
  Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event


  FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas for a
good paddock space with power hook-up?

  Thanks!

  Steve Groh
  SVRA #393
  63 Spitfire
  _______________________________________________
  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Fot mailing list
  Fot at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

  You are subscribed as jsnook_gmi at wcnet.org

From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Thu May 15 07:37:33 2008
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:37:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
References: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000801c8b690$d50e5010$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  Hi, I'm planning on going. I usually park next to my pal Dan Furey from
Columbus. We help each other on our cars, and I poach ppower from his
generator!-
  See you there.
  Bill Tobin Erie, PA TR6 Both car and driver are improving!---- Original
Message -----
  From: <sgroh1 at comcast.net>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:41 AM
  Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event


  > FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas
for a good paddock space with power hook-up?
  >
  > Thanks!
  >
  > Steve Groh
  > SVRA #393
  > 63 Spitfire
  > _______________________________________________
  > http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  >
  > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net

From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May 15 13:31:35 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:31:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
Message-ID: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>

A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold 
shown here:

http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe-px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36

I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock 
manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.

Anyone recognize it?

Thanks,
chris

From srcypher at mac.com  Thu May 15 14:54:33 2008
From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:54:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>

Looks custom to me; reminds me of the good parts, inc. triple ZS  
manifolds for TR6's

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=2


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 15, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
shown here:

http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe- 
px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36

I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.

Anyone recognize it?

Thanks,
chris
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as srcypher at mac.com

From goodparts at verizon.net  Thu May 15 16:00:25 2008
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 18:00:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
	<4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>
Message-ID: <482CB279.5060808@verizon.net>

Twasn't me.  At least not to my recollection.

Richard Good
Good Parts

Scott Cypher wrote:

>Looks custom to me; reminds me of the good parts, inc. triple ZS  
>manifolds for TR6's
>
>http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=2
>
>
>Thanks
>
>-Scott Cypher
>spitfireracer at xsmail.com
>SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
>Reading, PA
>http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher
>
>1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
>1971 TR6 TBD
>1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
>1976 TR7 Street
>
>
>"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
>Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
>of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
>
>On May 15, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
>
>A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
>shown here:
>
>http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe- 
>px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36
>
>I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
>manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.
>
>Anyone recognize it?
>
>Thanks,
>chris

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Thu May 15 18:56:14 2008
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 00:56:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Race Parts for Sale
Message-ID: <051620080056.6911.482CDBAE0007AB1A00001AFF22155670740A9D07009B079F9C9F00@comcast.net>

Posting this for a friend who has moved from his 1147 stuff to the 1300 Limited prep formula in H-Production.  You can contact me by reply or Chris directly...tell him I sent ya!

aaron


>From Chris Crisenbery:

I just purchased a 1982 Mini Pick-Up project that is being shipped over
from England in about a month and a half and I need two things cash and
a place to store it. 

So I need to make some room and turn a little cash to finish it off. 

I won't spend a ton of time with details, so just call or e-mail and
I'll run down the specs for you. Some of this stuff is stock and
suitable for the street, the racing engines are not! they are top notch
vintage or SCCA and are not streetable without lowering the compression
a BUNCH.

1. 1147cc engine with 303014 head - George Bauchman built 
2. 1147cc engine with 303014 head - George Bauchman built 
3. 1147cc engine - Rick Cline built (missing crank, but could be
supplied) 
4. Full prep rolling chassis, zero roll, custom a-arms (Great for F or
H) 
5. Rough racecar project roundtail Spitfire 
6. Multiple 1147cc stock engines and parts 
7. Multiple stock and 303014 heads all untouched 
8. Fiberglass fenders, bonnet and deck lid 
9. 4.11 rear ends 
10. Cline, Sargis and Huffacker Carbs 
11. Stock 1300cc heads 

If you don't see it on the list ask and I'll see what I have stashed
away. 
At this time very limited 1300cc stuff for sale. 

I'm willing to deal on multiple parts and engines and I will consider
all realistic offers as I would like to move this stuff soon. I am
serious about moving these parts but I didn't hit my head!  

Chris Crisenbery 
Home P/N (517) 789-8010 
Work P/N (517) 783-0710

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Thu May 15 23:58:28 2008
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 22:58:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8b719$dd6e5500$6401a8c0@TER2>

It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube manifold 
that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and early 60s. 
The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above the main 
manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction. The 
overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
                                                                             
                Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Kantarjiev" <cak at dimebank.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:31 PM
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold


>A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
> shown here:
>
> http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe-px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36
>
> I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
> manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.
>
> Anyone recognize it?
>
> Thanks,
> chris
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

From cartravel at pobox.com  Fri May 16 06:15:02 2008
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 07:15:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>

Can someone tell me whether Watkins Glen is dog friendly?
Thanks,
Larry Young

From billsohl at optonline.net  Fri May 16 13:58:35 2008
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:58:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>

I presume you mean the track itself for the Vintage Race Weekend on Sept..

They have been since we have been going.
My son brings his German Sheppard and we've been regularly
bringing our Yorkshire Terrier.

I don't know if the track allows dogs for other events such as NASCAR which 
would
involve much larger crowds.

Bill Sohl
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:15 AM
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs


> Can someone tell me whether Watkins Glen is dog friendly?
> Thanks,
> Larry Young
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billsohl at optonline.net 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 16 14:06:10 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:06:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Bring the leashes, please.

Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the track_. At 
least one was less than fortunate.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jerrybarr at charter.net  Fri May 16 14:15:01 2008
From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:15:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>

We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Bring the leashes, please.
>
> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
> track_. At
> least one was less than fortunate.
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net

From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Fri May 16 14:36:39 2008
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:36:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
	<FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>
Message-ID: <482DF057.5050402@141.com>

And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!

Hi Mike!   ;)

Susan   :)


Jerry Barr wrote:
> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>
>   
>> Hi,
>>
>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>
>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
>> track_. At
>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>
>> rml
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>> -----
>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>> -----
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>
>
>
>   

-- 
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"

From koblinger at verizon.net  Fri May 16 15:45:00 2008
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:45:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <1689858.642751210974300456.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

Rattlesnakes at Willow Springs, a particularly nasty variety known as the Mojave Green.

Cheers,
Kurt O.

>From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
>Date: 2008/05/16 Fri PM 03:36:39 CDT
>To: Jerry Barr <jerrybarr at charter.net>
>Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs

>And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!
>
>Hi Mike!   ;)
>
>Susan   :)
>
>
>Jerry Barr wrote:
>> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
>> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>>
>>   
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>>
>>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
>>> track_. At
>>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>>
>>> rml
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>> -----
>>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>> -----
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Fot mailing list
>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>>     
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>>
>>
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri May 16 15:51:27 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 17:51:27 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>

Ooh, haven't yet found the rattlers at WS but they are thick at  
Buttonwillow.  I'll keep my eyes out even more than usual.  We have  the Mohave Greens 
here in Vegas (well, the  mountains).



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From budscars at comcast.net  Fri May 16 16:00:15 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:00:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
References: <1689858.642751210974300456.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <01b201c8b7a0$3977ebf0$0202a8c0@Bud>

we have rattlers at Infineon out here, and also up at Thunderhill..In the 
days of Castle Rock Raceway in Colorado, the stewards warned drivers to 
'stay in your car' if you go off course..tons of rattlers...A friend told me 
a story..about that area..He was towing his H modified with his VW 
bus..after the races he came across a camp ground and was surprised that 
there was no one there...so he and his crew threw down their bags and hit 
the rack...In the morning, a Ranger pulled up..Gus stood up and told the 
ranger that would pay for the campsite now, because they were so tired the 
night before...The ranger replied..Oh, there's no problem...I was just 
surprised to see you here..I didn't think anyone camped here because there 
are so many rattlesnakes..Then Gus noticed the warning signs..whooohoo!.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <koblinger at verizon.net>
To: "Susan Kahler" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>; "Jerry Barr" 
<jerrybarr at charter.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs


> Rattlesnakes at Willow Springs, a particularly nasty variety known as the 
> Mojave Green.
>
> Cheers,
> Kurt O.
>
>>From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
>>Date: 2008/05/16 Fri PM 03:36:39 CDT
>>To: Jerry Barr <jerrybarr at charter.net>
>>Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
>
>>And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!
>>
>>Hi Mike!   ;)
>>
>>Susan   :)
>>
>>
>>Jerry Barr wrote:
>>> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
>>> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>>>
>>>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the
>>>> track_. At
>>>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>>>
>>>> rml
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>>> -----
>>>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>>>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>>>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>>> -----
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>> Fot mailing list
>>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>>
>>>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Fot mailing list
>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>-- 
>>There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude 
>>Quoting Idiot!"
>>_______________________________________________
>>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Fot mailing list
>>Fot at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 

From lunkercars at earthlink.net  Fri May 16 16:27:40 2008
From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg - Lunker Hilyer)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:27:40 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
References: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6A05BA57-EC9F-45EA-84F7-2A923AA1DE77@earthlink.net>

And don't forget about the kamikaze turtle at Hallett last year. And  
did you hear the one about the snail that was victim of a hit-and- 
run?... When the cops showed up to take his statement, the only thing  
he could say was... "it all happened so fast, I really don't remember  
what happened".
On the other hand, I had a real problem last weekend with one feral,  
lame dog that truly seemed to like watching vintage racing. For one  
entire run group, the poor old thing sat there [observing?] between  
turns 13 and 14, right in the best viewpoint. When animal control  
showed up, we in the tower made the change to the short track and  
then watched the Laurel & Hardy show as the dog catchers chased a  
old, limping dod from turn 12 to turn 2. After 45 mins., they came  
back saying they lost it in a high speed corner. Full track got under- 
way and we never saw the dog or the doigcatcher again.
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 # 314
Albuquerque NM
On May 16, 2008, at 3:51 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

> Ooh, haven't yet found the rattlers at WS but they are thick at
> Buttonwillow.  I'll keep my eyes out even more than usual.  We  
> have  the Mohave Greens
> here in Vegas (well, the  mountains).
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists  
> on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Fri May 16 16:44:28 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 18:44:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
References: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007501c8b7a6$66bbb190$6501a8c0@richardiipc>

After practice a couple of years ago I pitched a tent at Mid Ohio. Took a
little hike with a cold Bass Ale just to enjoy the quiet dusk and sweet
evening farm-land smells. A truly beautiful way to end a day of noise,
exhaust fumes and challenge. Got back to my camp and raccoons had eaten
every bit of the food in my chest. There was not even a bag of nuts left. 

Going to sleep hungry wasn't nearly as annoying as the repetitive nocturnal
return of the rest of my not-much-loved Procyonidae's family. 

Richard  

From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Fri May 16 23:46:45 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:46:45 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
(off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
anyone found something suitable???
Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia

From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Fri May 16 23:50:47 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:50:47 +1000
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat May 17 00:10:44 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 08:10:44 +0200
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
References: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <D773D55192194C7A94F8525E29F2CA97@Mobil>

I'm not sure you'll be successful.
Weber don't have a wide range. You have to deside: Power at low or at high 
range.

I would suppose your injection to be more flexible than Webers when you 
alter the mixture curve plate (don't know the english name).

Cheers
Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers


> I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It 
> currently
> runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some 
> webers
> to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
> comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
> I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
> before I start out
> Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com 

From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Sat May 17 03:08:32 2008
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:08:32 +0100
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <480CEB800576B738@> (added by '')

Hi Terry,

Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the Lucas
PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam profile
of course).

Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years of
development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Terry and Cindy
Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com

From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Sat May 17 03:17:42 2008
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:17:42 +0100
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
Message-ID: <482C143600669751@> (added by postmaster@mail.o2.co.uk)

Terry,

If it is a GT6 that you are working on then another Jon, Jon Wolfe, here in
the UK has many years of racing Spitfires, GT6s, and TR7 V8s and has written
several books on the subject.

Google tr7v8-racing and click on Jon Wolfe's marvellous Triumph Racing
pages.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Files [mailto:keithfiles at btinternet.com] 
Sent: 17 May 2008 10:09
To: 'Terry and Cindy'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Fot] injection vs webers

Hi Terry,

Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the Lucas
PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam profile
of course).

Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years of
development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Terry and Cindy
Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 17 05:32:38 2008
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:32:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
References: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <482EC256.7070907@cfl.rr.com>

If memory serves me right, there is a short and long Lucas starter. I 
had the short version on my GT6 and it clears the Mueller headers that 
are on the car. Of course if you are running big time compression ratios 
then the Lucas probably won't have enough umph! to turn the engine over.

Terry and Cindy wrote:
> I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
> clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
> (off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
> which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
> prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
> anyone found something suitable???
> Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat May 17 08:11:08 2008
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (mark eginton)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:11:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] few questions
Message-ID: <20080517141107.DCDT4128.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>

Hi Joe,

 

My son and I are rebuilding Dads old race engine. I was looking out of
curiosity at your flywheel. Beautiful design, probably beyond my needs and
finances for an aggressive street car. I am considering running an old
lightened flywheel from my dads stash. Are these motors balanced neutral so
you can replace a flywheel if it does not work out? 

 

Dad hogged out a lot of material; when I was 16, I drove the car very hard
with this flywheel for a decade or so before replacing the engine and
putting the racing engine in the parts pile for future finances. I was going
to have it magnifluxed but my machinist said that tons of surface cracks
will mask anything serious. Any thoughts beyond fabricating a scatter
shield? I am planning an 1/8 steel band tacked to the trans cover and
anchored to the frame on either side.

 

The guys at BP northwest offered me quite a deal on 87mm piston / liner kit.
I have heard a couple of thoughts on these. One is that they are great
because they are thicker than stock liners, the other is that its better to
bore stock liners because the metal is better. I have a good set of 85mm
pistons and lots of liners, is it really worth the $425 to go to the 87mm.

 

I sent in another email to the group regarding which motor to build. I would
love to hear your thoughts. I can't wait to get this back on the road!

 

Thanks, hope life is treating you well,

 

Best,

 

M

From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Sat May 17 08:20:11 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 09:20:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
References: <480CEB800576B738@> (added by '')
Message-ID: <00ad01c8b829$1ee76430$84620143@your55e5f9e3d2>

up to 8000 RPM!!!

what are those boys doing for cranks and
the rest of the bottom end to clutch?

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Files" <keithfiles at btinternet.com>
To: "'Terry and Cindy'" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers


> Hi Terry,
>
> Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
> successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
> order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the 
> Lucas
> PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam 
> profile
> of course).
>
> Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
> was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years 
> of
> development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.
>
> Cheers, Keith.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Terry and Cindy
> Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers
>
> I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It 
> currently
> runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some 
> webers
> to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
> comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
> I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
> before I start out
> Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1446 - Release Date: 
> 5/16/2008 7:42 AM

From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat May 17 08:29:11 2008
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (mark eginton)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:29:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Suppose you were building a motor for your favorite sunday
 street car
Message-ID: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>

Curious what people are happy with in a aggressive street TR3 motor for your
favorite Sunday street car? This car won't idle much, Upstate NY back roads
- Infrequent Track "club events" and autocross for fun, but no fender to
fender racing.

 

Specifically: is the TR4 head worth going to, I have plenty of TR3 heads,
would rather have the shelf space unless it makes a significant difference.
I may do some port matching but that's about it unless.

 

TR4A Cam or "D" Cam - have new old stock D cam from dads old stash.

 

Probably 87mm pistons kits from BP NW...

 

Pump gas and today's grade premium; what head thickness or compression ratio
can I get away with. 

 

Anyone got a rebuildable limited slip pumpkin in their stash; I accidently
threw one out when I broke a tooth street racing back in my teenage daze -
took me years to figure out why the car did not powerslide any more; live
and learn.

 

Any other thoughts, I have a lot of toys that I have to peanut-butter across
my discretionary funds; time is a little less of an issue.  

 

I accidentally sent a message meant for Joe to the group - apologies.

 

Looking forward to placing faces with email names and handles to many of you
this fall.

 

Loving spring!!!

 

Mark

From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Thu May  8 07:52:14 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:52:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing- more info
References: <01d801c8b0b6$d69b2f50$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8b112$b9c3e550$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Tee Shirts - even though we don't have a design to show yet, you should 
expect price  will be about $16 for short sleeve and $20 for long sleeve.
Polo Shirts - someone mentioned they would like to see these as a choice and 
we could offer one if there is enough interest so please vote on this too. 
Probably $25

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <S.Janzen at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:54 PM
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing


> I'm writing to solicit opinions on clothing FOT proposes to offer in
> conjunction with the 2008 Watkins Glen Kastner Cup.  The clothing will be
> embroidered with FOT logos, and there will be FOT printed tee shirts with
> original Triumph-inspired artwork .  What I'd like you to do is take a 
> look at
> the website (link below) and shoot me an email indicating what items you 
> would
> be interested in buying.  If you think I have missed the mark entirely let 
> me
> know that too.  We will be offering everything at cost of production. 
> Costs
> are on the website.
>
> Here are the parameters:
>  1.. We are offering a) several clothing choices with the embroidered 
> logo,
> and b) high quality tee shirts (short and long sleeve if some of you want
> both) with a five color ink silk screen design by Greg Petrolati, 
> featuring an
> "all Triumph race " illustration on the back and the FOT logo with the 
> Prince
> of Parkness mace fist, flags, helmet, laurels etc on the front
>  2.. the embroidered logo will not, repeat not, be the five color logo
> described above that you have seen  printed on previous tee shirts.
> Unfortunately, it is too complicated to embroider in a 3" area on 
> clothing.
> The embroidered logo will be as shown on the website (link, below).  I am
> hopeful the proposed design will satisfiy most of you - if there is 
> universal
> revulsion to it, hey, I have no artistic ego that will suffer - the 
> embroidery
> could consist simply of the words without the graphic.
>  3.. We need to get orders for about 100 embroidered items (not 100 of the
> same shirt, but total hats, shirts, etc) to have the embroidery done
>  4.. We need about ten orders for each individual item to include them as
> clothing choices.
>  5.. We are not taking orders now.  This is only to determine interest or
> lack thereof.  If, for example, only two people respond to this and say 
> they
> will buy a baseball cap, we won't offer that as a choice when it's time to
> order.
>  6.. Based on your responses I'll come up with a short list and be back at
> you taking orders in the near term
>  7.. Tee shirts - we do not have the artwork ready for you to see yet, so 
> I
> am not asking for indications of interest at this time.  Greg created the 
> FOT
> logo, so you know the tee shirt art will be great!  We'll follow up on 
> this
> later when we can show you the great design!
>  8.. We are going to do pre-orders only.   Only orders recieved by a 
> deadline
> (to be determined) in advance of Watkins Glen will be produced.  There 
> will
> not be any items (except perhaps x-large tee shirts) that will be 
> available
> for purchase if you do not pre-order.
>  9.. Ted Shumacher will be orchestrating the mfg and delivery process, so
> anything you order can be paid for by credit card and shipped to you or 
> picked
> up from him at the Glen.
>  10.. Traditional FOT logo - for those of you that are a big fan of this, 
> as
> I am,  if there is sufficient interest, this can be produced as a sew-on
> patch.  Apparently the weaving process can make a much more detailed 
> design.
> Cost $7-$10
> Here's the link.  This was the best way I could come up with to show you 
> what
> items look like.  Sorry I am not proficient enough to set it up so you can
> vote right on the site, but simply send me a return email with an X next 
> to
> the item indicating your interest, using the list below.  Everything will 
> be
> available in the usual range of sizes.  Keep in mind that it is often cool 
> at
> the Glen in September.
>
> http://www.freewebs.com/sjanzen/
>
> Baseball Cap                    ____
> Long Sleeve Denim Shirt   ____
> Long Sleeve Twill Shirt      ____
> Columbia Jacket              ____
> Windshirt                        ____
> Sew-on Patch                 ____
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net

From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Sat May 17 16:48:57 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 18:48:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
Message-ID: <BLU127-W28774EACFFBC18D0D805AE8CCB0@phx.gbl>

Keith Files wrote:
> [snip] all of the successful TR5/6 racers in the
> UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in order to
> a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you
> get with the Lucas PI [snip]

There is a "black hole" in DCOEs when they transition
to the main circuit, but at least with Webers, you can
set the rpm where the stumble occurs.  This may be OK
for narrow-band rpm road racers, but it is a PITA
for autoX.

And for the FOTer who expressed surprise at 8K rpm in
the 6, this is possible with a nitrided cross-drilled
billet crank, something that is STILL not available in
the US (for less than $6K).  :(

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May 18 06:00:15 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:00:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
Message-ID: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a

>If memory serves me right, there is a short and long Lucas starter. I 
>had the short version on my GT6 and it clears the Mueller headers that 
>are on the car. Of course if you are running big time compression ratios 
>then the Lucas probably won't have enough umph! to turn the engine over.
>
>Terry and Cindy wrote:
>> I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
>> clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
>> (off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
>> which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
>> prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
>> anyone found something suitable???
>> Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From srcypher at mac.com  Sun May 18 06:53:32 2008
From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:53:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
References: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>

Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a  
direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a

From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Sun May 18 08:35:05 2008
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 10:35:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
References: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000401c8b8f4$5f21f0d0$6701a8c0@DFN4YV61>

At one time I was using a starter from a 94 Celica >cheap from the bone yard 
$10.00 I had to make a plate  to adapt to the hole on the back plate (Tr-6) 
It was a fairly simple mod
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Cypher" <srcypher at mac.com>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter


> Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
> I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...
>
> http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm
>
>
> Thanks
>
> -Scott Cypher
> spitfireracer at xsmail.com
> SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
> Reading, PA
> http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher
>
> 1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
> 1971 TR6 TBD
> 1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
> 1976 TR7 Street
>
>
> "I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.
> Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start
> of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
>
> On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a
> direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.
>
> joe a
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net 

From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Mon May 19 06:27:19 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:27:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Trying to find Greg Petrolati
Message-ID: <002101c8b9ab$b12a8880$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Anybody know how to reach him?  I think he moved from Illinois and now his
email is bouncing back - thanks!

From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Mon May 19 07:01:52 2008
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b9b0$8230d480$2001a8c0@Dell5100Laptop>

I don't know if this will help anyone else, but this same starter
(Autozone pn 16878) is a direct replacement for an older commercially
modified starter that was on my TR4A.  All that was necessary was to
remove the gear and the front of the new starter's housing, being
careful of the gears inside, and replace that with the old starter's
housing and adapter, along with the original gear.  Don

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+ofbracing=nefcom.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+ofbracing=nefcom.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Scott Cypher
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:54 AM
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net; Terry and Cindy
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter

Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a  
direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as ofbracing at nefcom.net

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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon May 19 07:03:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:03:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing-AND NOW MORE INFO....
Message-ID: <d0a.249eec3b.3562d489@cs.com>

2nd send on this....too big the first time.

Scott,

> Great Selection by you & Ted. This is a lot of work. It should be rewarded 
> by early responses. I'd like to come up with DRIVER PREMIUM item, but need to 
> look at funding...
> 
> I met with Jack Woehrle today. HE IS OUR CHAMPION in this event. We will 
> have a very choice place to paddock. This will include a specicific location for 
> the WPTA HOSPITALITY TENT adjacent to a hard surface slab to conduct our own 
> TECH SESSIONS & to display prominent and significant TRIUMPHS during the 
> weekend. 
> 
> Also, these SIGNIFICANT TRIUMPHS will be afforded secure space in the TECH 
> BARN in the evenings. Contact me if you have a requirement for secure space. 
> 
> This will be the most incredible FOT EVENT OF THIS DECADE. 

> Joe Alexander
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >Tee Shirts - even though we don't have a design to show yet, you should 
> >expect price  will be about $16 for short sleeve and $20 for long sleeve.
> >Polo Shirts - someone mentioned they would like to see these as a choice 
> and 
> >we could offer one if there is enough interest so please vote on this too. 
> >Probably $25
> 

   </HTML>

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 19 07:30:25 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:30:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>

Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train 
damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the 
shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade 
8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in 
the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker 
shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.

I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is 
breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both 
resulting in collateral damage.

What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding

---prevention of breaking?

---prevention of backing out?



uncle jack 

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 19 08:23:45 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:23:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Suppose you were building a motor for your favorite
 sunday street car
In-Reply-To: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMedia
	Center>
References: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>
Message-ID: <200805191423.m4JENtOH130378@ns3.geneseo.net>

>My two cents worth for a warmed up street motor:


Mill head to give 9 to 9.5:1 compression ratio
install exhaust header
install street type (3/4) performance camshaft
install lighter flywheel

the first three will give you 15 to 20 hp increase, the lighter 
flywheel will give more acceleration.

All the other things that may be done to the engine return less bang 
for the buck, and most of the other mods help only from 3500 rpm up - 
so if it's a normal street driver, the engine will seldom see the rev 
range where it will benefit. If you want to win autocrosses, that's a 
different story.


uncle jack 

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May 19 11:13:33 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:13:33 EDT
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
Message-ID: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time, 
gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:


> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube 
> manifold 
> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and early 60s. 
> 
> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above the main 
> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction. The 
> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>                                                                              
> 
>                 Greg Solow
> 

By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we conclude there 
was no advantage?

Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom TR2 
manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was interesting, but in light 
of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an upgrade.

Bill 


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
family favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 19 12:57:19 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:57:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
In-Reply-To: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
References: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>

Never heard of this failure on this side of the pond.
What do you rev, what cam lift you use, what rocker do you use, which valve 
spings?

Maybe too much torgue on the bolts, or not enough torgue?
Stange thing. I use the old stock bolts and had no failure till now with a 
mileage of about 2000 mls.

Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs


> Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
> damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
> shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
> 8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
> the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
> shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.
>
> I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
> breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
> resulting in collateral damage.
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding
>
> ---prevention of breaking?
>
> ---prevention of backing out?
>
>
>
> uncle jack
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com 

From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 19 13:03:48 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:03:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
In-Reply-To: <4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>
References: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
	<4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>
Message-ID: <AE48540D-BE85-467B-866C-F2F34EDE5630@bnj.com>

I've had them turn loose. I use ARP studs, aircraft nuts, and machined  
flat washers, a little bit of red locktite and nothing comes loose  
anymore. I also use the rocker stands that support the end of the  
rocker shaft.
On May 19, 2008, at 11:57 AM, MadMarx wrote:

> Never heard of this failure on this side of the pond.
> What do you rev, what cam lift you use, what rocker do you use,  
> which valve
> spings?
>
> Maybe too much torgue on the bolts, or not enough torgue?
> Stange thing. I use the old stock bolts and had no failure till now  
> with a
> mileage of about 2000 mls.
>
> Chris
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:30 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
>
>
>> Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
>> damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
>> shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
>> 8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
>> the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
>> shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.
>>
>> I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
>> breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
>> resulting in collateral damage.
>>
>> What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding
>>
>> ---prevention of breaking?
>>
>> ---prevention of backing out?
>>
>>
>>
>> uncle jack
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From REK46 at aol.com  Mon May 19 13:09:29 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 15:09:29 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <c06.35f5973d.35632a69@aol.com>

I've had pedestals break, but never a stud prob in 25 yrs


**************

Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.
 
     (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 19 13:34:19 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:34:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
References: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <88193492-4EE7-4BA9-8A67-7B7647E656EC@bnj.com>

It' probably did a nice job of keeping the exhaust manifold clean-- 
amals are notorious gas leakers. The only place I have Amals is on my  
Vincent and my Goldstars, and that's just for period authenticity.  
Otherwise they'd join my lucas distributors in the catapult.

On May 19, 2008, at 10:13 AM, billdentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
> gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:
>
>
>> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube
>> manifold
>> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and  
>> early 60s.
>>
>> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above  
>> the main
>> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction.  
>> The
>> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>>
>>
>>                Greg Solow
>>
>
> By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we  
> conclude there
> was no advantage?
>
> Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom  
> TR2
> manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was  
> interesting, but in light
> of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an  
> upgrade.
>
> Bill
>
>
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From kaskas at cox.net  Mon May 19 14:04:02 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:04:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
References: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
	<88193492-4EE7-4BA9-8A67-7B7647E656EC@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <011501c8b9eb$7bdd6860$3a16c548@RW>

I did some work with the Amals way back when oil was being formed in the 
earth.  Waste of time. Sure looked good though.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <Billb at bnj.com>
To: <billdentin at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; <cak at dimebank.com>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold


> It' probably did a nice job of keeping the exhaust manifold clean-- 
> amals are notorious gas leakers. The only place I have Amals is on my
> Vincent and my Goldstars, and that's just for period authenticity.
> Otherwise they'd join my lucas distributors in the catapult.
>
> On May 19, 2008, at 10:13 AM, billdentin at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
>> gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:
>>
>>
>>> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube
>>> manifold
>>> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and
>>> early 60s.
>>>
>>> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above
>>> the main
>>> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction.
>>> The
>>> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>>>
>>>
>>>                Greg Solow
>>>
>>
>> By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we
>> conclude there
>> was no advantage?
>>
>> Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom
>> TR2
>> manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was
>> interesting, but in light
>> of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an
>> upgrade.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> **************
>> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
>> family favorites at AOL Food.
>>
>> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
>
> Bill Babcock
> Babcock & Jenkins
> Billb at bnj.com
> 503.936.7660
> www.bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 

From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Mon May 19 15:44:45 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 07:44:45 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1211220001.20507.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080519214443.ECSU1860.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

Thanks for all the input folks. It seems the Isuzu 2.6 starter will
basically bolt in, but it seems to be the exact same length once fitted, so
that does not help me. What I really wanted was a starter that was at least
1" shorter than the Lucas one. The same info must apply to TR6 etc. I was
sure someone had posted once about a conversion that was shorter.  Thanks
again
Terry

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon May 19 18:47:05 2008
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 00:47:05 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <20080519.204705.26603.0@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

Jack, I also use ARP studs, but with ARP washers and nuts.  I do not locktight
them, though.  I check rocker clearances every couple of races or if I
retorque the head, so typically they are never in there long enough,
untouched, to get loose.  The ARP studs have an Allen head at the top and I
just tighten them in with the Allen head.  So far they have never been loose.
I use BFE aluminum pedastals with the supports for rockers 1 and 8 and roller
rockers.  Joe(B)

-- "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net> wrote:
Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.

I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
resulting in collateral damage.

What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding

---prevention of breaking?

---prevention of backing out?



uncle jack
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net

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Victim of medical malpractice?  Click here to find an expert lawyer to help
pursue your case.
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From bfeken at copper.net  Mon May 19 19:21:28 2008
From: bfeken at copper.net (BFEKen@copper.net)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 18:21:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
Message-ID: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>

Jack, We have been dealing with the pedestal stud problem for some years. It
started with the first high lift & very radical cams & after an extensive
investigation we found that the pedestals rocked back & forth
when the nuts were torque to about 25-30 ft-lbs. We first used grade
8 studs from Bowman, but as the stud torque remained at 25-30 ft-lbs
we still had problems. A chance call to Pete Cox revealed that the brits
did not have grade 8 studs, but had increased the torque to 40psi & that
the problem had just about been solved. After we supplied them with
grade 8 studs & they secured them with mini head nuts the problem was
gone.
We had ARP supply us with some special studs & the Brits used Mini
head nuts torque to 60 ft-pounds. To prevent the studs from unscrewing we put
them in with locktite.
 We have been supplying western racers with the kits , including the
mini head nuts for   $80.00. for several years & no failures. I am still a
bit shy about 60 ft-lbs & have been using 45 ft-lbs & locktite

Ken
British Frame & Engine

From igofaster at charter.net  Mon May 19 19:44:47 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 18:44:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Eagles Canyon CVAR May 2008
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080519214447.NMCUM.87112.root@fepweb15>

Hello FoT! 
Great weekend in North Texas for CVAR! The transmission from Quantum Mechanics worked perfectly! I did not have a chance to run until friday test and tune....The GT6 performed very well every time out... Sunday was a little hot, but, all in all, a very wonderful weekend for the Triumph GT6!
Joe Hovey trashed his engine the first day... 
I guess he and I were the only members of FoT racing although I heard Ed Bernard was there with his son doing corner work.
I can't say enough about how the CVAR crew really made me feel special for going through the changes they required. It was evident saturday morning drivers meeting when Bob Green our chief steward clearly stated, "Play within our rules, or go home". Silence followed by a huge round of applause! Our president , George Curl had 70 plus emails from Group 1 the night before (big cars) ... some personal remarks about the stance of vintage... one driver has been tossed out on the 13/13 rule and three more were in line...
I had a blast, best part was sunday with our last session of 20 minutes, I was NOT passed by anyone!!!   Hey... I'm glad to start in last and just FINISH while I get my seat time in....  really a great weekend for me!

All the best!

Bobby Whitehead
#54 YELLOW CVAR / Triumph GT6+

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon May 19 19:59:17 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:59:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>

Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?

Thanks,
Marty





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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon May 19 20:25:36 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:25:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
>
>   

The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the 
shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit 
wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of 
the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring 
pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and 
stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to 
the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train 
is the one to flex.
 

In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow, 
with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the 
stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath 
the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts 
loosening up. 


What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly 
larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then 
installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.  
That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to 
hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the 
pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit, 
since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and 
over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth 
under load.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Mon May 19 20:38:50 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 22:38:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng><BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller rocker 
setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg 
out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs and 
hardened washers and nuts from ARP.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


> marty sukey wrote:
>> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
>> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
>>
>>
>
> The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
> shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
> wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
> the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
> pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
> stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to
> the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
> is the one to flex.
>
>
> In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
> with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the
> stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath
> the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
> loosening up.
>
>
> What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
> larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
> installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
> That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
> hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
> pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
> since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
> over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth
> under load.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> -- 
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking 
> distance....
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net

From budscars at comcast.net  Mon May 19 21:50:29 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
Message-ID: <008701c8ba2c$a61301d0$0202a8c0@Bud>

Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire #21

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Tue May 20 07:03:42 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:03:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
Message-ID: <c72.31b12f89.3564262e@aol.com>

Front Spindles?  Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for  the 
Lotus crowd.  High spec material and all.
 
 
In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
budscars at comcast.net writes:

Hello  Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know  
of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at  dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire  #21
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You  are subscribed as  gt6steve at aol.com





**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 20 07:37:34 2008
From: dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net (dale oesterle)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 06:37:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
In-Reply-To: <c72.31b12f89.3564262e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <245495.69143.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have two complete front gt6 sets, uprights, spindles, rotors, calipers (one with aluminum hubs; one minus calipers.)  Dale

Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:  Front Spindles? Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for the 
Lotus crowd. High spec material and all.


In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
budscars at comcast.net writes:

Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know 
of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire #21
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as gt6steve at aol.com





**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
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You are subscribed as dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net

From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 20 09:42:54 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 08:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
	<005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805200842s3ef6648cg6b8cccc98818c2b@mail.gmail.com>

Michel,
Michael,
I will supply some pedestals if you will bore them and let me know the stud
diameter -- suggest we find a stock ARP stud/washer/bolts  to use if
possible.  This would be tested in a high compression, high lift long
duration cam, PI TR6 race car.

Scott -- what ARP stud number?  Stock diameter?

chuck

On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:38 PM, Scott Janzen <S.Janzen at comcast.net> wrote:

> Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller rocker
> setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg
> out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs and
> hardened washers and nuts from ARP.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
> To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs
>
>
> > marty sukey wrote:
> >> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
> >> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
> > shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
> > wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
> > the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
> > pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
> > stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to
> > the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
> > is the one to flex.
> >
> >
> > In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
> > with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the
> > stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath
> > the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
> > loosening up.
> >
> >
> > What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
> > larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
> > installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
> > That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
> > hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
> > pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
> > since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
> > over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth
> > under load.
> >
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > Michael Porter
> > Roswell, NM
> >
> >
> > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> > distance....
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue May 20 09:48:14 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 08:48:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
References: <245495.69143.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004101c8ba90$eb370e50$0202a8c0@Bud>

thanks to everyone for the help with the spindles
Racer Bud
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: dale oesterle
  To: Gt6steve at aol.com ; budscars at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net
  Cc: dabeaupre at gmail.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 6:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed


  I have two complete front gt6 sets, uprights, spindles, rotors, calipers
(one with aluminum hubs; one minus calipers.)  Dale

  Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
    Front Spindles? Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for the
    Lotus crowd. High spec material and all.


    In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
    budscars at comcast.net writes:

    Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you
have/know
    of
    some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
    thanks..
    Racer Bud
    spitfire #21
    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as gt6steve at aol.com





    **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family
    favorites at AOL Food.
    (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
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From dodo at texas.net  Tue May 20 10:02:57 2008
From: dodo at texas.net (Robert D. MacKenzie)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 11:02:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
Message-ID: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>

I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl installation I
started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer

I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct brackets/mounts
with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be installed
on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.

The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up new
lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the existing brake
lines.
Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.  

The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The front
brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried to bleed
the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort. When I
blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by themselves.  When
everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal effort but
no brakes.  Not good.

I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed to work
until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind again.  

I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes caused
the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can apply the
rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does not seem
to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting the two
pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that did not
make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side made no
difference.  I believe each individual component is working right, just not
together.

Before I go much further I have some basic questions:

Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller cylinder
on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice as the
other will always be open?

Any help/advice will be appreciated.

Thanks

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:26:07 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:26:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
References: <d4f.293df89c.35644e86@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007f01c8ba96$359e80e0$0202a8c0@Bud>

I forwarded the emails to Dean..I don't know what he's decided...just wanted
to thank everyone for the great response so far...I think they are for a
Brabham BT25?
racer Bud
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: REK46 at aol.com
  To: budscars at comcast.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 8:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed


  so where did you get?


  **************
  Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.
  (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:54:12 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
Message-ID: <003301c8ba9a$21769a90$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

If i understand the problem, the fronts are engaging beflre the rears - 
usually calipers need much more fluid than wheel cylinders - think of the 
relative piston area - so I am surprised it is not the other way around. 
One thing you have not mentioned is the bias bar, between the pedal arm and 
two piston pusrods, which I assume you have and is usually the means to 
adjust relative piston travel front to rear.

My GT6 set-up uses two girling clutch masters - 5/8 bore with a Tilton bias 
bar between them.  The "front" master cylinder piston travels more than the 
rear given the greater fluid needs of the calipers vs wheel cylinders, so 
the bias bar goes from being tilted one direction to the other as the front 
master piston travels much further.  I have thought about going to a 3/4 
bore for the front and leaving the rear the same, to push 50% more fluid to 
the front ("pi" r squared) with the same piston travel.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert D. MacKenzie" <dodo at texas.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire


>I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl installation 
>I
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct 
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be 
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the existing 
> brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried to 
> bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort. When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed to 
> work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes 
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can apply 
> the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting the 
> two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that did 
> not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side made 
> no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right, just 
> not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller 
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice as 
> the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net

From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 10:57:24 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:57:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
Message-ID: <8D04A195-3C98-41A0-B79E-8E83C8674D8E@bnj.com>

You've got me pretty confused here. You've set up a two-MC system and  
you have proportioning valves on it? What are they proportioning?
Most folks that do two MC brakes do the proportioning with a balance  
bar.  A proportioning valve reduces downstream pressure. In a single  
MC system so you can put it between the front and rear systems to have  
less pressure applied to the rear cylinder than the front. I don't  
know what they would be used for in a two mc system, and I assume  
that's your problem.

Placing a proportioning valve in the rear circuit only generally does  
work since it reduces the pressure at the rear brakes, but it gives a  
hard pedal. You'd be better off getting rid of the proportioning  
valves entirely and using a balance bar. I'm assuming you feed the  
front from one MC and the rear from the other. If this isn't the case,  
then do.
On May 20, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Robert D. MacKenzie wrote:

> I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl  
> installation I singley
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct  
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be  
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up  
> new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the  
> existing brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The  
> front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried  
> to bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort.  
> When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by  
> themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal  
> effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed  
> to work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind  
> again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes  
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can  
> apply the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does  
> not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting  
> the two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that  
> did not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side  
> made no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right,  
> just not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller  
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice  
> as the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:56:38 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
	<005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
	<8cbd782d0805200842s3ef6648cg6b8cccc98818c2b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004701c8ba9a$78b35e10$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

stock diameter.  I just called up ARP and told them the total length i needed
and thread.  They do not make a set specifically for rocker pedestals for this
car, so it is just some of their usual high quality hardware.  I had been
using aircraft grade washers and nuts but those are far softer than the ARP
stuff I now have.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Chuck Arnold
  To: Scott Janzen
  Cc: mdporter at dfn.com ; fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:42 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


  Michel,
  Michael,
  I will supply some pedestals if you will bore them and let me know the stud
diameter -- suggest we find a stock ARP stud/washer/bolts  to use if possible.
This would be tested in a high compression, high lift long duration cam, PI
TR6 race car.

  Scott -- what ARP stud number?  Stock diameter?

  chuck


  On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:38 PM, Scott Janzen <S.Janzen at comcast.net> wrote:

    Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller
rocker
    setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg
    out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs
and
    hardened washers and nuts from ARP.

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
    To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
    Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
    Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


    > marty sukey wrote:
    >> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is
this
    >> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
    >>
    >>
    >
    > The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
    > shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
    > wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
    > the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
    > pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
    > stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done
to
    > the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
    > is the one to flex.
    >
    >
    > In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
    > with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around
the
    > stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm
underneath
    > the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
    > loosening up.
    >
    >
    > What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
    > larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
    > installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
    > That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
    > hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
    > pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
    > since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
    > over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and
forth
    > under load.
    >
    >
    > Cheers.
    >
    > --
    >
    >
    > Michael Porter
    > Roswell, NM
    >
    >
    > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
    > distance....
    > _______________________________________________
    > http://www.team.net/donate.html
    >
    > Fot mailing list
    > Fot at autox.team.net
    > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
    >

    > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net

    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
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    You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




  --
  Chuck Arnold

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 20 13:53:27 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 19:53:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Have you guys seen this site:

www.bringatrailer.com

It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.

Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 14:20:40 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 13:20:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
In-Reply-To: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <A577C633-59E3-4AB1-8A9F-F9C544D4B4A7@bnj.com>

Neat website, and a great example of the new trend in blogs--making  
money by having attractive content, mostly user-provided, and having  
lots of served advertising on the site that matches the interests of  
any reader. Mark, you should take a good hard look at how this is  
done. It generally takes multiple sites to make this work as a living,  
but I know of people that don't do anything else, and they make a  
darned good paycheck.

Bill


On May 20, 2008, at 12:53 PM, colordog.1 at earthlink.net wrote:

> Have you guys seen this site:
>
> www.bringatrailer.com
>
> It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.
>
> Steve
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue May 20 14:23:27 2008
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 15:23:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <7259605.1585311211315008373.JavaMail.root@vms070.mailsrvcs.net>

I look at it every day, right after I check my bank balance.

Kurt O.

>From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>Date: 2008/05/20 Tue PM 02:53:27 CDT
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer

>Have you guys seen this site:
>
>www.bringatrailer.com
>
>It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.
>
>Steve
>Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net

From westerneagleracing at att.net  Tue May 20 15:24:27 2008
From: westerneagleracing at att.net (westerneagleracing at att.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 21:24:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>

Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA event at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing 
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: -------------- 


> I look at it every day, right after I check my bank balance. 
> 
> Kurt O. 
> 
> >From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net 
> >Date: 2008/05/20 Tue PM 02:53:27 CDT 
> >To: fot at autox.team.net 
> >Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer 
> 
> >Have you guys seen this site: 
> > 
> >www.bringatrailer.com 
> > 
> >It's a collection of interesting cars for sale. 
> > 
> >Steve 
> >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile 
> >_______________________________________________ 
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> > 
> >Fot mailing list 
> >Fot at autox.team.net 
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
> > 
> >You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net 
> _______________________________________________ 
> http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> Fot mailing list 
> Fot at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
> 
> You are subscribed as westerneagleracing at att.net 

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Tue May 20 15:42:36 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 17:42:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
In-Reply-To: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
References: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
Message-ID: <006a01c8bac2$6bb8bcf0$6501a8c0@richardiipc>

The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would have
said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml

Richard  





Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does
anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA event
at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing 
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------

@bellsouth.net

From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Tue May 20 18:18:55 2008
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 20:18:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008
Message-ID: <000c01c8bad8$432f8870$6601a8c0@Elliott>

Last weekend was the hillclimb.  On page 6 of the photos, there's a nice Peerless.  Might be Nigel Cluey.

http://photos.psy-online.co.uk/Prescott_08/

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed May 21 05:47:29 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:47:29 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008
References: <000c01c8bad8$432f8870$6601a8c0@Elliott>
Message-ID: <001d01c8bb38$73855620$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Congrats to Standard-Triumph Forum in organising the event. Didn't go to Brooklands myself in the 
two or three (?) preceding years, so I guess anything is a compromise. At Prescott, they managed to 
stage a sort of static car show, though the hill climb obviously dominated. Isn't that mostly why we 
own these cars? Also, the use of the nearby steam railway the previous day as a road run and 
barbeque location was a good use of local resources. However, having seen many Standard-Triumph days 
myself - and all of them at Gaydon where there was no driving available, I was disappointed to see 
so few cars, in relative terms. I think everyone who turned up 'had several go's at the hill' but 
what saddened me was the absence of those who didn't want to drive but were happy to drive their 
cars to the event, exhibit them and meet their friends. As a result, there were lots of cars and 
people I failed to see.

 For that reason, Prescott was very disappointing for me and many Standard and Triumph cars (other 
than two seaters) were sadly conspicuous by their absence. I was there with the Triumph 
Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive Spitfire Raffle Prize which raised over US$500 in ticket sales on the 
Sunday - and thanks, Don for buying one. Others on FoT can see pix of the car in question at 
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?p=86  I'll be at next year's event but I DO hope we get a better 
turnout of the *complete* model range as a whole and not see it dominated by two seaters. After all, 
they only accounted for about 25% of total output in the post 1946 years. Thank goodness The 
Standard Motor Club was there with some truly stunning examples of cars built between 1924 and 1938.

Jonmac


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Elliott" <58tr3a at videotron.ca>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008


> Last weekend was the hillclimb.  On page 6 of the photos, there's a nice Peerless.  Might be Nigel 
> Cluey.
>
> http://photos.psy-online.co.uk/Prescott_08/
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com 

From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 11:55:27 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 10:55:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <002601c8baa0$c1976f80$44c64e80$@aero>
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
	<8D04A195-3C98-41A0-B79E-8E83C8674D8E@bnj.com>
	<002601c8baa0$c1976f80$44c64e80$@aero>
Message-ID: <5E35D661-1E54-401C-9073-456B5FFE3009@bnj.com>

I don't really see how they could, or if they did, how they could work
effectively. Proportioning valves are basically a pressure reducer
that works dynamically, as you increase the pressure on the input side
you get a proportionate increase on the output side, but it's still
lower. That works okay in a single circuit, but it seems to me that it
wouldn't work well in a two-mc system. You'd have to press like hell
on the brakes, and a little mis-adjustment would give you no brakes at
all--not what I'd be shooting for. I don't like proportioning valves
at all.

You can make a balance bar by simply building a set of brackets with
different ratios for the attachment points. Peyote had a setup like
that which worked fine for many years. I added an adjustable bar and
gained nothing from it--the bracket approach works just as well if the
car is not super-sensitive to brake bias.


On May 20, 2008, at 10:41 AM, Robert MacKenzie wrote:

> Bill;
>
> Thanx for the help! I am equally confused.
>
> I think the valves were intended to take the place of a balance bar
> as the pistons are actuated be a single straight bracket attached to
> the brake pedal.  The fabrication of the mounting bracket is very
> good and I assumed it would all work together.  I looked at balance
> bars but cant find one that will work on a 2 inch center I now
> have.  Tilton sells a 2.5 inch balance bar and said it can be
> trimmed but I then loose most of the adjustment range.  I may have
> to go that route.
>
> Robert
>
>
> From: Bill Babcock [mailto:Billb at bnj.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:57 AM
> To: dodo at texas.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
>
> You've got me pretty confused here. You've set up a two-MC system
> and you have proportioning valves on it? What are they proportioning?
> Most folks that do two MC brakes do the proportioning with a balance
> bar.  A proportioning valve reduces downstream pressure. In a single
> MC system so you can put it between the front and rear systems to
> have less pressure applied to the rear cylinder than the front. I
> don't know what they would be used for in a two mc system, and I
> assume that's your problem.
>
> Placing a proportioning valve in the rear circuit only generally
> does work since it reduces the pressure at the rear brakes, but it
> gives a hard pedal. You'd be better off getting rid of the
> proportioning valves entirely and using a balance bar. I'm assuming
> you feed the front from one MC and the rear from the other. If this
> isn't the case, then do.
> On May 20, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Robert D. MacKenzie wrote:
>
>
> I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl
> installation I singley
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up
> new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the
> existing brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The
> front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried
> to bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort.
> When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by
> themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal
> effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed
> to work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind
> again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can
> apply the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does
> not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting
> the two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that
> did not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side
> made no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right,
> just not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice
> as the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
>
> Bill Babcock
> Babcock & Jenkins
> Billb at bnj.com
> 503.936.7660
> www.bnj.com
>
>
>

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From d.hesse at charter.net  Wed May 21 10:39:01 2008
From: d.hesse at charter.net (d.hesse at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 9:39:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <20080521123901.TM7C4.177663.root@fepweb05>

I'm not sure of the model, but Chris Beebe here in Madison, WI races what I believe is a Starliner Coupe with SVRA, VSCDA, etc. The car was supposedly run at one time in the Carrera Panamamericana. Chris runs Beebe Builds and Foreign Car Specialists and also races Loti.
Dave

---- Richard Taylor <tarch at bellsouth.net> wrote:

=============
The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would have
said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml

Richard





Great website. Thanks for sharing. Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does
anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe. There was one at the HMSA event
at Laguna. One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------

@bellsouth.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as d.hesse at charter.net

From REK46 at aol.com  Wed May 21 10:53:12 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:53:12 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
Message-ID: <ccd.346488a7.3565ad78@aol.com>

I agree with Bill....I tried the prop valve, it just limited rear brakes and 
put more work on the frts which then will fade.....use the dbl MC at 
5/8"...and if you want to , put a adj bal bar cable to set them up from 
cockpit.....best thing I ever did on the spit


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing 
burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed May 21 11:28:44 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 13:28:44 EDT
Subject: [Fot] What'd ya think?
Message-ID: <bbb.29ca9d43.3565b5cc@aol.com>

Amici...

Bob Wismer and I continue to tune our TORNADO TALISMAN, a fresh restoration.  
It has an English Ford drive train, but lots of TRIUMPH parts, which look to 
be GT6, SPITFIRE, or perhaps and in particular HERALD.

Right now we are not happy with the rear end ratio.  We are looking to 
replace it with something in the 3.7 to 3.9 range.  We have a second pumpkin.  Cast 
into the right side (facing the) pinion housing is LEYS and below it GD4.  The 
left side (as facing the housing) is 04984, and stamped on the bottom is SGA 
295.  Cast into the gear sump housing is STANPART P8.  It is further stamped 
with 304983.

Any help out there with what we might have, what will fit in it, and where we 
could get it?

Bill Dentinger
 


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Wed May 21 11:54:17 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:54:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
References: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
	<006a01c8bac2$6bb8bcf0$6501a8c0@richardiipc>
Message-ID: <001b01c8bb6b$b1ab7dc0$a26a0143@your55e5f9e3d2>

actually,  Bob Bourke penned the '53 stude cpe and
hardtops.  He worked for R.L. at the time.
Several years ago we towed a Stude based sports racer
the Excalibur Hawk to the Eyes on the Classics show at
the Edsel Ford Estate.   Stude and Porsche were the
featured marques and Bourke was there getting a lifetime
achievement award.  Lots of studes there including a 200
mph stude powered Avanti and a Stude Indy car circa '33.


art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <westerneagleracing at att.net>; <koblinger at verizon.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Bring a trailer


> The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would 
> have
> said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."
>
> http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
> Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, 
> does
> anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA 
> event
> at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
> does make it eligible for a lot of events.
> Ron Jacobs
> Western Eagle Racing
> -------------- Original message from 
> <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------
>
> @bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1456 - Release Date: 
> 5/20/2008 6:45 AM

From dave at microworks.net  Wed May 21 16:51:12 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:51:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: TR3 parts
Message-ID: <20080521225132.MJVL1277.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

Anybody have a lead for this guy?


>Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
>From: MICHAEL PAVLIK <mepavlik at yahoo.com>
>Subject: TR3 parts
>
>Dave, I do not remember how to add to the classified in the forum. I 
>am looking for TR3 fiberglass body parts, front apron and all 4 
>fenders. Anyone have any leads?  Mike Pavlik

From m-syork at comcast.net  Sun May 25 10:10:01 2008
From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 09:10:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SS brake lines and fittings
Message-ID: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>

Amici, Input please:

I have a friend who has owned a Cessna for years; he has offered to make
stainless brake lines for my TR3 racer. He would use 37 deg single flares
and b-nuts on all the fittings. I read through most of the threads on
hydraulic lines (from about a year ago) last night and most of you think 37
single flare is acceptable. Are there any issues with this method, any
better, easier ways? It looks like the standard b-nut (male to male)
fittings will thread right into the brake cylinder.

I've seen his work; it's almost too pretty for the race car.

What does everyone think?

Thanks in advance

Mark

From Billb at bnj.com  Sun May 25 14:37:09 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 13:37:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SS brake lines and fittings
In-Reply-To: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
References: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
Message-ID: <70736E83-11AB-4266-AA97-77D72EDCA45F@bnj.com>

Not just acceptable--the only way to go.
On May 25, 2008, at 9:10 AM, Mark York wrote:

> Amici, Input please:
>
> I have a friend who has owned a Cessna for years; he has offered to  
> make
> stainless brake lines for my TR3 racer. He would use 37 deg single  
> flares
> and b-nuts on all the fittings. I read through most of the threads on
> hydraulic lines (from about a year ago) last night and most of you  
> think 37
> single flare is acceptable. Are there any issues with this method, any
> better, easier ways? It looks like the standard b-nut (male to male)
> fittings will thread right into the brake cylinder.
>
> I've seen his work; it's almost too pretty for the race car.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun May 25 18:59:06 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 20:59:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Isky cam
Message-ID: <c81.29521c95.356b655a@aol.com>

Amici, can anybody supply a cam card, details or even opinions on a 1990  
Isky Z66+10 cam for a six cylinder?  I've got one virtually brand new but  it 
doesn't seem all that hot a cam from the catalog numbers.  Any idea what  lift 
the checking numbers were quoted for?
 
Not surprisingly, Isky can't be bothered...



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun May 25 19:11:12 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:11:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
Message-ID: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>

Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun May 25 19:12:51 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:12:51 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
Message-ID: <ca7.289b1303.356b6893@aol.com>

Jeez Marty, that's awful!  How bad is it?  Are you OK?   Other than a broken 
heart?



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun May 25 19:18:16 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 18:18:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601c8bece$60972e00$0802a8c0@Bud>

I'm very sorry to hear that......It may be difficult for you to say now, 
..but....move forward....who knows what The Gang can round up for you
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 6:11 PM
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey


> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the 
> TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 

From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Sun May 25 19:16:42 2008
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 20:16:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483A0F7A.1010506@141.com>

Where were you autocrossing that let you run into a light pole?  Are you 
okay????  Any way to save the 6?

Susan    :)


marty sukey wrote:
> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>
>
>
>   

-- 
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun May 25 19:52:03 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 19:52:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483A17C3.2060902@dfn.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
>   

Bummer. They don't move much, do they?

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun May 25 20:08:58 2008
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIKEEJCLAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

Tough break, sorry to hear about it.

Be sure to salvage those good looking Mags though.

Ken Gano


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
marty sukey
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 8:11 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey

Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
Fot mailing list
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 25 21:07:09 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 22:07:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080526030656.8A306187874@autox.team.net>

Wow.  My heart bleeds for you.  I hope you find a way to come back from that.

- Tony

At 08:11 PM 5/25/2008, marty sukey wrote:
>Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
>is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
>Marty

From m-syork at comcast.net  Mon May 26 21:33:08 2008
From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 20:33:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More brake line questions
Message-ID: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>

Amici

More TR3 brake questions: do the Girling master brake and clutch cylinders
use BSP pipe thread? What standard does the 37 deg aircraft hardware follow
(is it AN)? Is there an adapter available to use the 37 deg b-nuts on the
master cylinders?

Thanks in advance

Mark 

From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 27 01:06:07 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 00:06:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More brake line questions
In-Reply-To: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
References: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
Message-ID: <10B39B99-6DBB-4651-B0AC-BF141BB6E8E3@bnj.com>

I suggest you search the archives of FOT, this was all discussed at  
length. It's a little challenging to get the master cylinder adapters  
to make 37 degree work, but they are out there. I can't testify to the  
thread on Girlings since I don't use them, but I doubt it's pipe  
thread. Generally brake parts have a flare at the end of the hole and  
matching one in the union that threads into it.

Most of the stuff I used came from aircraft spruce. As I recall, you  
can use 37 degree flares with a 45 degree male adapter as long as you  
use the tube sleeve to keep the flare stable. 37 degrees is the AN  
standard. As I recall, the flare nuts are AN 818 and the sleeves are  
AN 819. I think the AN832 bulkhead unions (steel, not aluminum) are  
what I used for my Tilton master cylinders.

The reason for using 37 degree bits is that the flare seals by  
stretching rather than by being compressed (and hardened). The tube  
sleeve applies pressure evenly on the flare and makes it seal better  
than 45 degree SAE bits.

There's also an article on the dimebank garage: http://www.dimebank.com/tech/BrakePlumbing.html

On May 26, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Mark York wrote:

> Amici
>
> More TR3 brake questions: do the Girling master brake and clutch  
> cylinders
> use BSP pipe thread? What standard does the 37 deg aircraft hardware  
> follow
> (is it AN)? Is there an adapter available to use the 37 deg b-nuts  
> on the
> master cylinders?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com

From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Tue May 27 06:08:03 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 08:08:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Isky cam
Message-ID: <BLU127-W408421CCCA96B5D7A5C0758CBD0@phx.gbl>

Steve,

> can anybody supply a cam card, details or even opinions on a 1990
> Isky Z66+10 cam for a six cylinder?

Details on this cam (and others) can be found at
http://triumph.hottr6.com/tr6cams.html

Shane Ingate in NM

Update on the Garagemahal: Electrical work in, and stucco going on this
week.

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld

From list at mackenzie.aero  Tue May 27 08:38:12 2008
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 09:38:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OT: Volvo parts needed
Message-ID: <005b01c8c007$4aecdc00$e0c69400$@aero>

Sorry for the off topic post but I have a friend in Chile who just built a
Road Racing Volvo 142 and is looking to up-grade the diff.

Can anyone recommend a source for a DANA LSD for a 1974  142 model with a
B20E engine and a M 45 gearbox?

Used, new anything will work.

Thanx!

Robert MacKenzie
robert at mackenzie.aero

From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Wed May 28 08:43:56 2008
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 07:43:56 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Ken Kirk
Message-ID: <000301c8c0d1$4224b960$c66e2c20$@racer@comcast.net>

Ken:

 

Will you contact me off line at vintage.racer at comcast.net.  Thanks

 

Gary Horstkorta

From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Wed May 28 15:21:03 2008
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 17:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Distributor help
Message-ID: <003e01c8c108$bceb8570$2001a8c0@Dell5100Laptop>

I use a modified '79 Honda Accord distributor in my TR4 and I'm hoping
that there might be an electronic distributor expert on the lists who
can tell me if I'm doing a repair correctly.  During the last outing at
VIR my distributor quit, and had zero resistance at the internal pickup
coil (the two leads from the dizzy that go to the ignition box).  I
replaced it with a spare distributor and finished the weekend but now I
need to repair the broken unit.  Since I know the pickup coil was bad
(no resistance vs 372 ohms resistance on the good spare), I ordered a
replacement pickup coil from Autozone that matches perfectly except the
resistance on the new coil is 750 ohms, almost double what's in the
working spare.  According to everything I can find on the internet, 750
is correct resistance for that distributor, but since its double what's
in the other one I'm curious/concerned about whether I have the right
one.  Or, the real question might be "Does the resistance of the pickup
coil really matter?"  Any help will be appreciated. I hate to put it in
the car and burn out the new $50 pickup coil because it's the wrong one.
Thanks, Don

 


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From stutzmans at comcast.net  Wed May 28 17:16:14 2008
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzman)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 19:16:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <001201c8c118$d3703060$c70aa8c0@D9DGQM31>

Can anybody who is doing the Gold Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce Stutzman

From GRMTim at aol.com  Thu May 29 08:40:14 2008
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 10:40:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <d22.27de05c2.35701a4e@aol.com>

I needed all my passes, but glad to see some of the gang is going. Who else 
is going to the Gold Cup?

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040

 Can anybody who is doing the Gold Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce Stutzman



**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From dave at microworks.net  Thu May 29 09:10:42 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 08:10:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: [WtW] GT Racer
Message-ID: <20080529151437.JXCJ11242.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>

 From the Wheel-2-wheel list...


>I was chatting with a fellow in England this morning and he 
>mentioned a HD TV show called GT Racer. It's about vintage racing on 
>the great tracks. I search for and found this website 
>http://www.cargofilm-releasing.com/gtracer.html
>
>Does anyone know if it's available in the USA?

From LOddTR at aol.com  Thu May 29 18:36:35 2008
From: LOddTR at aol.com (LOddTR at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 20:36:35 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <cfd.34aa36fb.3570a613@aol.com>

Dean Tetterton will be there with his TR3, Rob Deanes with his TR4 and  I 
with R2D250.
 
Leo Oddi
 
 
In a message dated 5/29/2008 10:41:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
GRMTim at aol.com writes:

I needed  all my passes, but glad to see some of the gang is going. Who else 
is  going to the Gold Cup?

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic  Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports  magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone:  (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040

Can anybody who is doing the Gold  Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce  Stutzman



**************
Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You  are subscribed as  loddtr at aol.com





**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From lunkercars at earthlink.net  Fri May 30 10:36:14 2008
From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 10:36:14 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
Message-ID: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>

Big thanks to all who responded to my post "Looking for a racer" of  
awhile back. And especially to Bob Miller who's tip led to the  
purchase of Mike Alex's TR4 from the Denver area.
My friend Bill Swope brought the car back to Albuquerque last week  
and I got a look - very nicely prepared TR4 that looks to have been a  
race car all it's life. Bill is still going thru the reams of  
documents that came with the car, but there are indications that it  
may have been a Group 44 car at one time. Lots of neat mods. that  
I'll get into later. It is white with green #06 as it came from  
Connecticut a few years back. Prior to that it may have been orange w/ 
yellow [#8?] also in the Connecticut area. Has a "Canada" decal on  
the dash, the significance of which is not yet known. It is not what  
I envisioned as a "drive to the track racer" but I guess Bill has a  
more expansive definition of that than I... His maiden voyage was  
down the street of his quiet neighborhood right past a motorcycle cop  
writing someone else a ticket. Bill parked, got out, walked up to the  
cop and said "am I in trouble? I'll go get the trailer if you want"  
Thus disarmed, the officer just told him to get it home! I've never  
quite had such luck. Sounds just right for the FoT to me!
Bill has now come full circle - his first race car was a TR4 back in  
'63. His current racing stable includes a Beach/Lotus SR, a couple  
Brabham FA's and wife Janice's 356 DP and decades of club racing.  
Time to get him on the list. Therefor my nomination of Bill Swope  
[bswope959 at msn.com] to the FoT. With any luck we might even get him  
[& Janice] to Watkins Glen. How 'bout a second Henry?
Thanks again,
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM

P.S. Where can I send a few $$ to help keep our wonderful FoT going?

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 30 10:58:43 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 12:58:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
In-Reply-To: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>
References: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805301257210.31545@isis.mit.edu>

SECOND

I saw that car for sale about 6 years or so ago. Looked like a pretty nice 
car then.

I LOVE the cop story. Fantastic - Bill has brass ones. Def. FOT material.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Fri May 30 17:46:21 2008
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 17:46:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
Message-ID: <20080530.174622.1344.2.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

I support that nomination as well.
Bill
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mKiv8uBdXBgMBoEIHauS9hp2jU4f51GdoJv6l0UsBBL0ljs/

From rblake36 at yahoo.com  Sat May 31 21:09:16 2008
From: rblake36 at yahoo.com (Robert Blake)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:09:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4a on ebay
Message-ID: <182567.58610.qm@web58511.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know the history of this car?  I have tried to contact the owner to no avail.
   
  Thanks

From kaskas at cox.net  Sat May 31 23:28:47 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 22:28:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT-6 car
Message-ID: <013f01c8c3a8$5dd2d780$3a16c548@RW>

I'v e got a line on a pretty nice looking GT6 car that has been sitting for
about 12 years, has 41,000 miles and has rusted sills and floors but otherwise
looks pretty good.  Any interest.  No price YET, but looking into it. Mid-
west location.

From robertten1 at aol.com  Thu May  1 05:01:11 2008
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 07:01:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
Message-ID: <8CA7991CCC49B15-430-206B@webmail-stg-d02.sysops.aol.com>

Small CNC Robodrill.? All depends on how large a part you are looking to be able to machine.



Bob T

'64 Spit GT? autocrosser


-----Original Message-----
From: James McAndrew <jdment at suddenlink.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:02 pm
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine




I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT. 

 

I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small prototype
Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).

 

I don't need a Bridgeport.

 

I have 220v single phase in my garage.

 

What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power feed?

 

Thanks

Jim McAndrew

Tyler, Texas
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Thu May  1 06:42:44 2008
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 08:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
	<00e101c8ab3a$8be14bb0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
	<82D103E7-4792-4343-AA96-89FDFE16F7DD@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <00ff01c8ab88$dd79fb40$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, A source for used equipment: Plaza Machinery in Bethel, VT. He can
ship anything anywhere.
Very honest and reputable fellow. Sells quality equipment.
www.plazamachinery.com
Joe at plazamachinery.com
Again, no financial interest, just a good guy to deal with.
Bill Tobin  Erie, PA Vintage TR6  Gingerman bound

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Babcock
  To: WILLIAM TOBIN
  Cc: James McAndrew ; fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] OT Milling machine


  I agree that the american or german made machines are worth the bucks and
better used than the chinese stuff is new, but I've found this shoptask
machine to be pretty handy for my middling skills--the little I remember from
machine shop class in High School reinforced with a bunch of skimmed books. I
think it takes about three years of serious effort to be a machinist of any
quality and ten years and some talent before you really know what you're
doing.


  Used to be a lot of used good machinery around, and I had a friend that sold
the stuff. When I finally had space to put together a machine shop he was out
of biz--told me the sources of used equipment had pretty much dried up and the
available stuff was junk. Kind of makes sense--when every little town had a
machine shop the equipment moved around a lot. Most of those small shops are
gone, and the gear serious people buy today is for lights out machining. When
one of those operations goes BK there's nothing us regular folks can use.


  I spent a lot of time perusing eBay and other sources before I bought my
shoptask. I gave up.

  On Apr 30, 2008, at 5:22 PM, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote:


    Hi, this is along the lines of discusion about automotive lifts of a few
    weeks ago. You need one.
    Go for the Bridgeport, with digital readout and power feed. Yeah, the
Griz
    or Jet or Enco are ok, but you can get a used Bridgeport (or Clausing or
    other brands) for about the same money and it will outlast the lesser
    brands. Plus, was made in Conn.or somewhere domestically and parts or
    accessories are readily available.
    I have an Index brand milling machine, built in 1944; I have the original
    mfr. documents. War Dept OK'd! It's smooth as silk and much more accurate
    than I'll ever be. (Before I bought it, I'd never run one!)
    I also have a Rutland brand import; works ok but not a Bridgeport.
Probably
    came from the same factory as the Enco, etc.
    I have a couple sources for used equipment; give me a shout and I'll give
    you details. And no I don't have a financial interest in them. Just
trying
    to help.
    Hope this helps; my 2 francs worth.
    Thanks, Bill Tobin  Erie Pa Vintage TR6
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "James McAndrew" <jdment at suddenlink.net>
    To: <fot at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 10:02 PM
    Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine



      I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT.







      I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small
prototype

      Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).







      I don't need a Bridgeport.







      I have 220v single phase in my garage.







      What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power
feed?







      Thanks



      Jim McAndrew



      Tyler, Texas

      _______________________________________________

      http://www.team.net/donate.html



      Fot mailing list

      Fot at autox.team.net

      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot



      You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net

    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com



  Bill Babcock
  Babcock & Jenkins
  Billb at bnj.com
  503.936.7660
  www.bnj.com


From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May  1 12:54:02 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 11:54:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <481A11CA.9000005@dimebank.com>

If you have room for a Bridgeport and can find one used, get it. Yes, 
it's big. But when you find yourself faced with a job that needs the 
travel or table space, a smaller machine just won't do.

If you don't have room for a Bridgeport, look for a Clausing 8530 or 
8520 (in that order). About 1/2 the size of the B'port, almost as rigid.

Don't forget to budget for 'mill jewelry'. I probably have more invested 
in that than my 8530 cost up front. The other advantage of the 
Bridgeport is that the tooling that fits it is cheapest; a smaller 
machine takes parts and accessories that the industry considers oddball, 
and thus charges more for.

Direct/digital readouts are wonderful, but certainly not necessary if 
you're methodical and careful. Power feed is occasionally useful - I 
have it on a single table axis - especially if you're doing long slow 
cuts or facing something with a fly cutter.

I'd put the money into a air misting lube system instead, myself, if I 
had to choose.

Best,
chris


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Thu May  1 14:58:23 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 13:58:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
Message-ID: <200805012058.m41KwOY7017308@mail168c2.megamailservers.com>

James,
      The only vise to use if you have any choice is a Kurt. Everything 
else I have seen or used will move the work when you clamp.
      If you get a Bridgeport or similar 3 phase machine, the easiest 
way to convert single pahse to 3 phase is a variable frequency drive 
(VFD, inverter for those ebay searches). They all output 3 phase, just 
make sure to get a 220-240 volt unit. They will all take a sigle phase 
input even if they don't admit to it. If they have no single phase 
rating just  oversize it by about 50% - if you need 2 hp buy at least a 
3hp. Make sure you can get documentation for whatever you buy so you 
know how to wire it and set the limits for speed, accel, decel, & remote 
variable speed.
    VFDs work far better than the cheap 3 phase converters which really 
need an idler motor to smooth them out. If you have the time and spare 
parts you can make a converter with some capacitors and a 3 phase motor 
but it is  big, noisy, and needs to be tuned to the load. There are many 
plans floating around the net for these.

Greg Lund

James McAndrew wrote:
> I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT. 
> 
>  
> 
> I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small prototype
> Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).
> 
>  
> 
> I don't need a Bridgeport.
> 
>  
> 
> I have 220v single phase in my garage.
> 
>  
> 
> What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power feed?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim McAndrew
> 
> Tyler, Texas
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as gtlund at cyberspeedway.net


From igofaster at charter.net  Thu May  1 14:59:28 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 13:59:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>

I really have to give a huge THANK YOU to Quantum Mechanics. Some of you guys know the situation I've had with my GT6 gearbox and the T50 Toyota...
I purchased a QUANTUM MECHANICS gearbox from Robert @ Quantum. 
I had issues with the tranny and did not get any runs out of it, unless you count 1 1/2 laps at Hallett...
I sent the transmission back to Quantum. I talked to Robert today @ Quantum, he said 2nd gear had gone out. All the other gears were fine. I told Robert I may or may not have aligned the hydraulic release bearing up properly, and I insisted i may have been something I did that was wrong.
He insisted on repairing the geabox and shipping it back to me for NO CHARGE! I tried to offer money for shipping and he turned it down, twice!
Guys and gals, it doesn't get any better than that.
We have Eagles Canyon here in N. Texas this month in two weeks. I bought a new clutch and slave cylinder from Vicky Brit.. I'm going to go ahead with pulling out my 'parts bin' noisey tranny and hop I get the gearbox here in time to do ECR.

HUGE plug for Robert @ Quantum Mechanics FoT!

Bobby Whitehead
#54 CVAR TRIUMPH GT6


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Thu May  1 15:38:48 2008
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 21:38:48 GMT
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
Message-ID: <20080501.173848.7044.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

I agree about the Bridgeport.  I have an older belt driven speed changer
model.  Got it from a state technical school that auctioned them off when
buying new ones.  I use it often.  A little play in the ways, but I can
usually hold to 5/1000 inch tolerance.  The other machine that I use all the
time is a lathe.  I have a 9" South Bend belt driven lathe.  It can do most of
what I want, but there are times that a larger one would be helpful.  There I
go, another guy not satisfied with the size of my tool.  Joe(B)

-- Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:
If you have room for a Bridgeport and can find one used, get it. Yes,
it's big. But when you find yourself faced with a job that needs the
travel or table space, a smaller machine just won't do.

If you don't have room for a Bridgeport, look for a Clausing 8530 or
8520 (in that order). About 1/2 the size of the B'port, almost as rigid.

Don't forget to budget for 'mill jewelry'. I probably have more invested
in that than my 8530 cost up front. The other advantage of the
Bridgeport is that the tooling that fits it is cheapest; a smaller
machine takes parts and accessories that the industry considers oddball,
and thus charges more for.

Direct/digital readouts are wonderful, but certainly not necessary if
you're methodical and careful. Power feed is occasionally useful - I
have it on a single table axis - especially if you're doing long slow
cuts or facing something with a fly cutter.

I'd put the money into a air misting lube system instead, myself, if I
had to choose.

Best,
chris
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net

_____________________________________________________________
Click to get a free auto insurance quotes from top companies.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2211/fc/Ioyw6ijmNj76jZw3asbxSsZko1Pt0L
5vCz7wrlkLNgER48J5lHU10W/?count=1234567890


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu May  1 15:49:13 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:49:13 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Steel Flywheels - (2) Left....next production run late fall
 2008 for TR4 / TR6
Message-ID: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>

FoT:

I have shipped nearly all of the steel flywheels ordered.

I have two steel wheels left from this run. They are available.

When these are gone, it may be October/November when I run more. At that time 
I hope to run TR6 Flywheels, as well, and combine the order to lower the cost.
 
(Volume combined with commonality between the two flywheels will be taken 
into consideration in the production costs)

If you want to put your name on one of TR4/TR6 Flywheels to be run late fall, 
let me know. I will Excel Spreadsheet your interest. Advance orders will 
benefit from discount.

THANKS!

Joe A

   </HTML>


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May  1 15:53:25 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:53:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>
References: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805011752430.30777@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 1 May 2008 igofaster at charter.net wrote:

> HUGE plug for Robert @ Quantum Mechanics FoT!

I think it's "John" at Quantum Mechanics. As in John Esposito.

Good people.

> Bobby Whitehead
> #54 CVAR TRIUMPH GT6

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Thu May  1 17:10:57 2008
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:10:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steel Flywheels - (2) Left....next production run late
 fall 2008 for TR4 / TR6
In-Reply-To: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>
References: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <0BBC8ADB-7D7E-4C84-91F8-1B904C62081B@earthlink.net>

I got mine and it is truly jewelry quality. This piece, used with the  
[slightly lighter] diaphragm style clutch cover will save nearly 30  
lbs. of rotational weight. Highly recommended!
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM
On May 1, 2008, at 3:49 PM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

> FoT:
>
> I have shipped nearly all of the steel flywheels ordered.
>
> I have two steel wheels left from this run. They are available.
>
> When these are gone, it may be October/November when I run more. At  
> that time
> I hope to run TR6 Flywheels, as well, and combine the order to  
> lower the cost.
>
> (Volume combined with commonality between the two flywheels will be  
> taken
> into consideration in the production costs)
>
> If you want to put your name on one of TR4/TR6 Flywheels to be run  
> late fall,
> let me know. I will Excel Spreadsheet your interest. Advance orders  
> will
> benefit from discount.
>
> THANKS!
>
> Joe A
>
>    </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Fri May  2 15:54:47 2008
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 17:54:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1963 Sebring Race Video
Message-ID: <002c01c8ac9f$2879fd40$6601a8c0@Elliott>

A TR friend in France just sent me this link about this DVD.  

The DVD has a guided tour of one of the cars number 38 in Kas Kastners workshop and explains about the wing extensions for the wider wheels and tyres and also catalogues the modifications made for the race as well as quite good albeit short coverage of the race itself. the disk is availabkle here http://www.motorfilms.com/videos.php?id=104
 
It is volume 11

Would Keith Files' TR4 be one of these ?

Don Elliott, Montreal


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Fri May  2 18:06:33 2008
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 00:06:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Forged spitfire 1500 pistons
Message-ID: <050320080006.27954.481BAC8900076C9B00006D3222155754740A9D07009B079F9C9F00@comcast.net>

Amici...

After the big explosion at St. Louis I'm looking for some forged pistons.  Who's got the hot setup now?  Pistons would be flat topped 11:1 compression ratio.  Anyone have any suggestions...

Aaron
#87 Spitfire 1500 
Southern Illinois Region SCCA


From dave at microworks.net  Sat May  3 12:43:06 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:43:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: 1975 Red TR6 For Sale
Message-ID: <20080503184314.PKJN7113.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

   A long time DCTRA member is selling his TR6.  Nice car.
   eBay item # is 150241682984

     Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:20:08 -0700
     From: Fran Wickenhauser <fwick at financing-equipment.com>
     Subject: 1975 Red TR6 For Sale
     Hi  Dave:  I am back in Phoenix about 1 -2  months during the year.
     I  have  a  home in Sun City Grand.  Our permanent home is still in
     Crested  Butte,  CO.  We are down here for the month of May.  While
     here,  I  have  decided  to  sell  my  Red 1975 TR6.  It is on eBay
     currently.   It  is  the  only  Red  TR6  with a checkerboard floor
     garage.   Please  broadcast  this  note to all members.  My contact
     information  is  below  and also in the Ebay ad.  Anyone wanting to
     see the car here in Phoenix can call me anytime.  Thanks.
     Fran Wickenhauser, President
     Midwest Leasing, Inc.
     37 Kubler Court
     P O Box 1214
     Crested Butte, CO 81224
     800-203-8920
     800-203-8921 Fax
     www.financing-equipment.com


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Sat May  3 18:52:23 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 17:52:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Hackett Motors TR4 race car info
Message-ID: <481D08C7.2070901@cyberspeedway.net>

Group,
     Does anybody have any info on the '64 TR4 Hackett Motors race car.
It was raced from '64-'67? Hackett motors was in Saugatuck, Ct. Jay Paul 
is a steward for us in Phoenix and we got to talking today at
the track about old races and cars and I mentioned the FOT. He said his
dad, Ed Paul crewed for David Hackett on the TR4 that Doug Given drove
in the NE Div and was div champion in '66. He said David Hackett also
had an aluminum bodied TR4?  Jay said his dad would like to hear what 
has become of the car and people involved. Any stories out there?

Thanks,
Greg Lund


From Guyots3 at wmconnect.com  Sat May  3 21:05:11 2008
From: Guyots3 at wmconnect.com (Guyots3 at wmconnect.com)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:05:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Message for Joe Alexander
Message-ID: <d06.2f1a2560.354e81e7@wmconnect.com>

Hi Joe,

Our wireless router seems to have fallen over!

For any communications re windage trays. please call me on my cell phone at
541-531-2633 PST, as well as sending an email as usual.

Thanks

Lion

presently on wife's PC, piggybacking of neighbour's unsecured but slow
wireless network!

sneaky huh?

L   </HTML>


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun May  4 10:54:32 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 16:54:32 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Paging Robert MacKenzie
Message-ID: <050420081654.10773.481DEA47000B3B4400002A152200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net>

Apologies to the FOT for the interruption:


Robert,

Please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Irv KOrey


From spreiss at verizon.net  Sat May  3 23:05:29 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 16:05:29 +1100
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
Message-ID: <001801c8ada4$79a8da50$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I noticed that there is a
drop of coolant that repeatedly collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.
Does this signal a head gasket problem? Compression in that and all cylinders
is in the 150 lb range. I do not want to pull the head at this point if it can
be safely avoided. Don't mind changing the oil again within a shorter than
normal interval, but I really want to drive the car this week. The main cap
bolts are all torqued to 80 ft/lbs as listed in the manual.
Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump pickup has torn
loose from the spot where it was soldered to the pickup tube. There is now a
hole in the screen about the size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of
these filters that they would be willing to send me right away for a
reasonable price?
Many thanks
Steve P.


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  4 14:57:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 13:57:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
In-Reply-To: <001801c8ada4$79a8da50$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I 
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly 
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump 
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to 
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the 
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these 
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for 
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May  4 18:07:16 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 20:07:16 EDT
Subject: [Fot] I - J  Crank Scrapers and Windage Trays.
Message-ID: <d10.260c6c88.354fa9b4@cs.com>

FOT,

There are (21) I - J Triumph Scraper &/or Windage Tray Sustems queued up for 
production for the FOT Group Purchase.

On the 9th of May, I - J  will establish a new price on the Scrapers.  
Running Changes for product improvement have increase the complexity and value of 
the assembly.  Price increase will be announced, shortly. I think it will Retail 
under $99.00, but more than $90.00  

Know also that the FOT Group 15% Discount goes away with our current order. 
So, if you are thinking about it, buy now and install later. And if you have 
other friends that are interested, send them my way.

Thanks everyone, and best regards,

Joe Alexander   </HTML>


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Mon May  5 09:52:52 2008
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:52:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] John Fitch - update
Message-ID: <000801c8aec8$142dfeb0$3c89fc10$@racer@comcast.net>

Hello All:

 

A while back there was an email to FOT about the quandary John Fitch finds
himself in by just trying to be a good citizen.  I have read other accounts
of his situation and that donations to help him offset the cost of his
environmental cleanup have been steadily coming in.  This moring I read the
following in a historical racing enthusiasts newsletter called "The Fabulous
Fifties" which I thought was worth mentioning to the group:

 

"We have heard about John Fitch's problem and cannot believe it!  A donation
in on the way, Ciao" - Stirling Moss, London.

 

Gary

1962 TR4

1969 TR6


From BillB at bnj.com  Mon May  5 13:11:07 2008
From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 12:11:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
References: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>

Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.

The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.

________________________________

From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems



> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon May  5 13:37:54 2008
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:37:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
In-Reply-To: <A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>
References: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE4EAA31F@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I used to deal with a little seepage on the figure of 8's but I switched to
using blue Hylomar in place of Permatex and I haven't had an issue since. It's
expensive but they actually had some at Harbor Freight the last time I was
there.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 2:11 PM
To: Randall; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems

Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head
gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.

The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make
a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.

________________________________

From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems



> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rkramer at rdoequipment.com


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Mon May  5 17:26:05 2008
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 19:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stub axel and
Message-ID: <003001c8af07$64d03e20$6701a8c0@DFN4YV61>

Hi folks  I made an attempted today to change front rotors,but I could not
pull the hub I am using the up graded stub axel and aluminum hubs.  Has any
one had this issue and is the fix to use a puller.I still have end float and
have only worked on one side.  thanks   rob


From ablake2 at austin.rr.com  Tue May  6 20:16:20 2008
From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 21:16:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Looking for TR6 tranny
Message-ID: <000001c8afe8$57227a90$6401a8c0@blake1>

Group,
 
I am looking for a complete rebuildable TR6 non OD transmission for my
project.  Does anyone have one they are willing to sell?  Please contact
me off list.
 
Ablake2 at austin.rr.com
 
Thanks,
 
Greg  


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May  7 11:15:51 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 10:15:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold


From markvaden at gmail.com  Wed May  7 12:00:09 2008
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:00:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?

TIA,
Mark


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  7 12:52:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:52:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <124401c8b073$74d47f30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

IMO, burping a little after a hard run and sudden shutdown is normal.  There
is still a lot of heat stored in the cylinder head & block, but the water is
no longer circulating to carry the heat away.  So the residual heat causes a
little boiling in the head.

The real question IMO is why it didn't go into the overflow.  Sounds like it
may be blocked; or perhaps the upper lip of your radiator neck is damaged so
it doesn't seal to the cap.

Randall


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  7 12:53:40 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:53:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <612041.6544.qm@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had that happen once when I was having head gasket sealing problems (before Uncle Jack was building my engines.) Some of the combustion pressure must have leaked into the water passages.
Gary Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net; TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 7, 2008 1:00:09 PM
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping

Hi All,

Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?

TIA,
Mark
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as garygret at sbcglobal.net


From REK46 at aol.com  Wed May  7 13:00:56 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:00:56 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <c65.248fcc0e.35535668@aol.com>

He should also ck to see that the rad and thermostat are not above the 
head....or air steam pocket cud occur...may need expansion tank and bleeder above 
head level


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
family favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From rem9 at frontiernet.net  Wed May  7 13:05:54 2008
From: rem9 at frontiernet.net (Russ Moore)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8b075$60313940$2093abc0$@net>

Get a friend to help for the cost of a beer! Far cheaper than having paint
repairs to do

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rem9=frontiernet.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rem9=frontiernet.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chuck
Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rem9 at frontiernet.net


From henry at henryfrye.com  Wed May  7 14:15:54 2008
From: henry at henryfrye.com (Henry Frye)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B52E8650115BB4085979C721A085AD405FF71@server.Triumph.local>

I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
This is how I do it...

Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
proper torque. Reinstall headlights.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
> Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
> To: Friends; Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
> after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
> have done it several times, probably try different techniques
> each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 14:34:47 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 16:34:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <63DCE15B.7EA592E0.00159EE9@cs.com>

i locate the hood on the car.

then i raise it into the open position and secure with the prop rod.

it stays in place while i locate the hinge and start the capscrews.

i can take it off and put it on, by myself, and in a few minutes.

i would expect the tr6 to be the same.

i have been doing it this way since 1969.

joe a

>I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>This is how I do it...
>
>Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> To: Friends; Triumph
>> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>>
>> --
>> Chuck Arnold
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Wed May  7 15:50:50 2008
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (U K MOTORSPORTS)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:50:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>

Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension w/
a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
trouble than its worth...Chip


> [Original Message]
> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
> This is how I do it...
>
> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
> > To: Friends; Triumph
> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
> >
> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
> >
> > --
> > Chuck Arnold
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
7:46 AM


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Wed May  7 15:16:14 2008
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (Gasket Works USA)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 16:16:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <27911552.1034481210194974133.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.

I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket 
from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two 
seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush 
on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an 
appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin. 
Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and 
align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove 
the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from 
the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.

I did this for the race car not my street car.

M.N.Dunst

Gasket Works USA, LLC

gmt-8 Pacific time

626.358.1616 voice

626.628.3777 fax


From budscars at comcast.net  Wed May  7 15:32:36 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:32:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>

Hi gang...There's just something about being able to do things solo as we 
age...Maybe it's about not depending on anyone for help, because 'It Aint 
Always Available'...and the challenge is what this car stuff is greatly 
about!
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "U K MOTORSPORTS" <tr6racer21 at earthlink.net>
To: "Henry Frye" <henry at henryfrye.com>; "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


> Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
> not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
> suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
> brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension 
> w/
> a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
> trouble than its worth...Chip
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
>> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>> This is how I do it...
>>
>> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> > To: Friends; Triumph
>> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>> >
>> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chuck Arnold
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Fot mailing list
>> > Fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
> 7:46 AM
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 15:33:23 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 17:33:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <42B341E1.2A2D0FEE.00159EE9@cs.com>

i like that idea...

>What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.
>
>I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket 
>from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two 
>seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush 
>on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an 
>appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin. 
>Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and 
>align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove 
>the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from 
>the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.
>
>I did this for the race car not my street car.
>
>M.N.Dunst
>
>Gasket Works USA, LLC
>
>gmt-8 Pacific time
>
>626.358.1616 voice
>
>626.628.3777 fax
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From don at carterdesignassociates.com  Wed May  7 15:59:00 2008
From: don at carterdesignassociates.com (Don Carter)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:59:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>

I share your frustration. This goes much better with a friend's help. In
fact, without risk of scratching it is real scary.  So wait for a friend and
instruct him something like this:

1. Place at least two of the hood mounting bolts along the front fender
mounting channel near the front of the engine bay by the hinges. Also have
1/2 inch wrenches handy and within reach of this same area.
2. You and a FRIEND pick up the hood holding each of its sides. (If you
don't have a friend, find one.  If you can't find one, then sell your
Triumph without a hood installed.)
3. You take the passenger side, especially if your right handed.  Hoist the
hood onto each of your inside (the engine side) shoulders, whilst, (a
British word), facing toward the front of the car.
4. Tilt the hood so that the hinges mate as close as possible with the hood
mounting holes and install somewhat loosely two of the bolts through the
passenger side hinge holes.
5. Then go over and relieve your friend who is patiently holding his
driver's side up and who has helped by gently moving the hood whilst you
bolted the passenger side.
6. Install two bolts on the driver's side with a bit more tightness and
gently lower the hood and adjust by hand bumping the edges to align.  Raise
and tighten until adjustments and alignment is made and finish other bolt
installations.

The floating captured threaded plates are of course the problem, but this
method has worked for me for many installations.  Praying for more patience
might also help before you start.

Don Carter, AIA



Carter Design Associates
6213 Skyline Dr., Suite 100
Houston, Texas 77057
(713) 529-2288 Telephone
(713) 789-2330 Fax
don at carterdesignassociates.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

--
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
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From Billb at bnj.com  Wed May  7 16:08:19 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:08:19 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>
References: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>
Message-ID: <1A04FEBA-3DBA-4EF7-B2EE-6517D7BA6AE1@bnj.com>

Isn't this an exposed pin hinge like the TR3/4? Can you drill the pin  
out and replace it with a cap screw and nylock?

On May 7, 2008, at 11:59 AM, Don Carter wrote:

> I share your frustration. This goes much better with a friend's  
> help. In
> fact, without risk of scratching it is real scary.  So wait for a  
> friend and
> instruct him something like this:
>
> 1. Place at least two of the hood mounting bolts along the front  
> fender
> mounting channel near the front of the engine bay by the hinges.  
> Also have
> 1/2 inch wrenches handy and within reach of this same area.
> 2. You and a FRIEND pick up the hood holding each of its sides. (If  
> you
> don't have a friend, find one.  If you can't find one, then sell your
> Triumph without a hood installed.)
> 3. You take the passenger side, especially if your right handed.   
> Hoist the
> hood onto each of your inside (the engine side) shoulders, whilst, (a
> British word), facing toward the front of the car.
> 4. Tilt the hood so that the hinges mate as close as possible with  
> the hood
> mounting holes and install somewhat loosely two of the bolts through  
> the
> passenger side hinge holes.
> 5. Then go over and relieve your friend who is patiently holding his
> driver's side up and who has helped by gently moving the hood whilst  
> you
> bolted the passenger side.
> 6. Install two bolts on the driver's side with a bit more tightness  
> and
> gently lower the hood and adjust by hand bumping the edges to  
> align.  Raise
> and tighten until adjustments and alignment is made and finish other  
> bolt
> installations.
>
> The floating captured threaded plates are of course the problem, but  
> this
> method has worked for me for many installations.  Praying for more  
> patience
> might also help before you start.
>
> Don Carter, AIA
>
>
>
> Carter Design Associates
> 6213 Skyline Dr., Suite 100
> Houston, Texas 77057
> (713) 529-2288 Telephone
> (713) 789-2330 Fax
> don at carterdesignassociates.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net]  
> On Behalf
> Of Chuck Arnold
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:16 PM
> To: Friends; Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
>
> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after  
> engine
> replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several  
> times,
> probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with  
> all of
> them.
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as don at carterdesignassociates.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
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>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed May  7 16:23:40 2008
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:23:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>
	<00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE572D0F3@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

The doing things solo part really sucks as we age. I used to sling those
trannies into place with hardly any pain, and mounting a bonnet was no
problem. Now I have to work up the courage. It helps to have a willing wife.
Try withholding sex to get her cooperation.

OK, promise to wash up before groping. Maybe that has a chance.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
RACER BUD
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 4:33 PM
To: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net; Henry Frye; Chuck Arnold
Cc: Friends of Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood

Hi gang...There's just something about being able to do things solo as we
age...Maybe it's about not depending on anyone for help, because 'It Aint
Always Available'...and the challenge is what this car stuff is greatly
about!
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message -----
From: "U K MOTORSPORTS" <tr6racer21 at earthlink.net>
To: "Henry Frye" <henry at henryfrye.com>; "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


> Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
> not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
> suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
> brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension
> w/
> a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
> trouble than its worth...Chip
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
>> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>> This is how I do it...
>>
>> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> > To: Friends; Triumph
>> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>> >
>> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chuck Arnold
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Fot mailing list
>> > Fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
> 7:46 AM
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net
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You are subscribed as rkramer at rdoequipment.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May  7 16:44:50 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 00:44:50 +0200
Subject: [Fot] This corner is "oioioioioi"
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net><00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE572D0F3@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c8b093$f69218f0$6602a8c0@HOME>

http://totgelacht.com/content/9010-die-kurve-des-grauens.html


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Wed May  7 16:44:55 2008
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 18:44:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Instuction manual
Message-ID: <482230E7.9080600@cfl.rr.com>

Any one have an instruction manual for a Spa fire suppression system 
they are willing to copy. I will of course pay your expenses to copy and 
send.
thxx,
Bob


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Wed May  7 16:57:38 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 18:57:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <BLU127-W35E935D3308ABCB350F6B98CD10@phx.gbl>

Mordy Dunst wrote:

> What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.
>
> I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket
> from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two
> seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush
> on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an
> appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin.
> Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and
> align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove
> the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from
> the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.

This is what I did on my TR6.  It still takes 2 people to hold the hood,
but it takes 30-60 sec to remove/attach.  And the hood always stays aligned.

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Get Free (PRODUCT) RED  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 18:07:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 20:07:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>

Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a kit 
of hardware and adapter plates.

Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of 
candidates for the KIT.

Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser operations, 
a little die work...likely stainless steel

Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone 
from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in the 
racing stables, too.

(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)

Thanks,

Joe   </HTML>


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Wed May  7 19:49:50 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 21:49:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <bc8.2b80686c.3553b63e@aol.com>

I am in the auto salvage business. We do not specialize in any particular car 
but I love to buy Miata's. Everything sells off of these cars. I take some 
small parts like from the interior and get obscene prices on ebay. The seats I 
like to save and take to Carlisle that is coming up next week. Not only do the 
TR guys like them but the kit car guys go crazy for them. I get $100 and up 
per seat so if you find them any cheaper, consider it a deal.
 
My biggest problem is getting cars at reasonable prices to dismantle. The 
racing scene has exploded with literally hundreds showing up at events so 
everyone want's one. And fiberglass hardtops, forget it. They average $1,200 a piece.
 
Anyway, put me down as a yes! Can you send me any info that I can take with 
me this weekend. I have a set of seats I am taking. Last year a guy bought the 
pair for a Spit. I'll get to hear from him how he made out. He thought they 
were a little broad but took them anyway. CHA CHING.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May  7 20:28:39 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 21:28:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080508022831.39032187648@autox.team.net>

As someone mentioned, any overflow should go to the overflow 
tank.  The seal between the top of the rad cap and the outer flange 
is supposed to be an "infinite" pressure seal.  The spring and inner 
seal is where the 7 lbs or 21 lbs or whatever the cap is rated for 
applies.  It lets the water in between the inner seal and the outer 
seal to go to the overflow tank.  When it cools down it's supposed to 
suck water from the overflow tank back into the radiator.

As mentioned, two things will cause the water not to go to the overflow:
1. blocked line to the overflow
2. crappy seal between the radiator cap and the radiator

I've had issues in the past where after a 30 min session the overflow 
tank (1 - 2 qt size) was almost full and it wouldn't pull back into 
the radiator.  This was caused by a minor leak between the combustion 
chamber into the water jacket.  There was still enough pressure in 
the radiator that the water wouldn't pull back in.

A hard run at low speed will likely put more heat into the system 
than it handles well, and then shutting down the car would cause more 
heat soak where you may see some localized boiling and would 
certainly see the water expanding.

I have a little bleeder on the top of my thermostat housing to get 
the last little bit of air out of the block, but having a little air 
in the system would give it some room to expand too so I don't think 
that's the issue.

One other issue I'll mention is that the stock radiators need a cap 
with a longer than usual distance between the inner seal and top of 
the cap (the spring part needs to be longer).  I run an aftermarket 
radiator so it uses normal caps.

21 psi is certainly too high - you risk blowing the figure 8 seals 
with that.  I'd be nervous going much over 10 psi.

- Tony Drews

At 01:00 PM 5/7/2008, Mark Vaden wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
>car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
>of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
>bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
>runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
>high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
>ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
>and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?
>
>TIA,
>Mark
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May  7 20:53:21 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 21:53:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080508025310.79674187665@autox.team.net>

I came out of the grocery store last year and someone was inspecting 
the seats in my Miata (of course my top was DOWN, the proper 
position, making inspection easy).  He was looking to see if they'd 
fit in a spridget.

I LOVE the seats.  110,000 fairly hard miles (a trip without at least 
one sideways corner is a wasted trip) and they are holding up well.

While the car is the same length at the TR-4, it's quite a bit wider 
so I'm sure there's a bit of finagling to get them to fit in the TR-4 or TR-6.

- Tony

At 07:07 PM 5/7/2008, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a kit
>of hardware and adapter plates.
>
>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>candidates for the KIT.
>
>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser operations,
>a little die work...likely stainless steel
>
>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street 
>cars in the
>racing stables, too.
>
>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe   </HTML>
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Wed May  7 20:54:30 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 22:54:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing
Message-ID: <01d801c8b0b6$d69b2f50$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

I'm writing to solicit opinions on clothing FOT proposes to offer in
conjunction with the 2008 Watkins Glen Kastner Cup.  The clothing will be
embroidered with FOT logos, and there will be FOT printed tee shirts with
original Triumph-inspired artwork .  What I'd like you to do is take a look at
the website (link below) and shoot me an email indicating what items you would
be interested in buying.  If you think I have missed the mark entirely let me
know that too.  We will be offering everything at cost of production.  Costs
are on the website.

Here are the parameters:
  1.. We are offering a) several clothing choices with the embroidered logo,
and b) high quality tee shirts (short and long sleeve if some of you want
both) with a five color ink silk screen design by Greg Petrolati, featuring an
"all Triumph race " illustration on the back and the FOT logo with the Prince
of Parkness mace fist, flags, helmet, laurels etc on the front
  2.. the embroidered logo will not, repeat not, be the five color logo
described above that you have seen  printed on previous tee shirts.
Unfortunately, it is too complicated to embroider in a 3" area on clothing.
The embroidered logo will be as shown on the website (link, below).  I am
hopeful the proposed design will satisfiy most of you - if there is universal
revulsion to it, hey, I have no artistic ego that will suffer - the embroidery
could consist simply of the words without the graphic.
  3.. We need to get orders for about 100 embroidered items (not 100 of the
same shirt, but total hats, shirts, etc) to have the embroidery done
  4.. We need about ten orders for each individual item to include them as
clothing choices.
  5.. We are not taking orders now.  This is only to determine interest or
lack thereof.  If, for example, only two people respond to this and say they
will buy a baseball cap, we won't offer that as a choice when it's time to
order.
  6.. Based on your responses I'll come up with a short list and be back at
you taking orders in the near term
  7.. Tee shirts - we do not have the artwork ready for you to see yet, so I
am not asking for indications of interest at this time.  Greg created the FOT
logo, so you know the tee shirt art will be great!  We'll follow up on this
later when we can show you the great design!
  8.. We are going to do pre-orders only.   Only orders recieved by a deadline
(to be determined) in advance of Watkins Glen will be produced.  There will
not be any items (except perhaps x-large tee shirts) that will be available
for purchase if you do not pre-order.
  9.. Ted Shumacher will be orchestrating the mfg and delivery process, so
anything you order can be paid for by credit card and shipped to you or picked
up from him at the Glen.
  10.. Traditional FOT logo - for those of you that are a big fan of this, as
I am,  if there is sufficient interest, this can be produced as a sew-on
patch.  Apparently the weaving process can make a much more detailed design.
Cost $7-$10
Here's the link.  This was the best way I could come up with to show you what
items look like.  Sorry I am not proficient enough to set it up so you can
vote right on the site, but simply send me a return email with an X next to
the item indicating your interest, using the list below.  Everything will be
available in the usual range of sizes.  Keep in mind that it is often cool at
the Glen in September.

http://www.freewebs.com/sjanzen/

Baseball Cap                    ____
Long Sleeve Denim Shirt   ____
Long Sleeve Twill Shirt      ____
Columbia Jacket              ____
Windshirt                        ____
Sew-on Patch                 ____


From budscars at comcast.net  Wed May  7 21:43:39 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 20:43:39 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
	<20080508025310.79674187665@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b0bd$b4b83de0$0302a8c0@Bud>

Great seats..I drive a 1990 Miata
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?


>I came out of the grocery store last year and someone was inspecting
> the seats in my Miata (of course my top was DOWN, the proper
> position, making inspection easy).  He was looking to see if they'd
> fit in a spridget.
>
> I LOVE the seats.  110,000 fairly hard miles (a trip without at least
> one sideways corner is a wasted trip) and they are holding up well.
>
> While the car is the same length at the TR-4, it's quite a bit wider
> so I'm sure there's a bit of finagling to get them to fit in the TR-4 or 
> TR-6.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 07:07 PM 5/7/2008, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a 
>>kit
>>of hardware and adapter plates.
>>
>>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>>candidates for the KIT.
>>
>>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser 
>>operations,
>>a little die work...likely stainless steel
>>
>>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street
>>cars in the
>>racing stables, too.
>>
>>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Joe   </HTML>
>>_______________________________________________
>>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Fot mailing list
>>Fot at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 07:32:56 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:32:56 EDT
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
Message-ID: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>

Moldex is building a new crank for us and they have called with a question.  
They want to talk us into just single oil passage to the rod and main  
journals. I'm of the cross drilled opinion.
 
What have the rest of you done?
 
Time is of the essence. They are waiting for an answer and already 2 months  
late.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Thu May  8 08:44:18 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:44:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <BLU127-W4436226E00159C77ACE3E88CD00@phx.gbl>

Joe Alexander wrote:

> Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
kit
> of hardware and adapter plates.

Miata seats are a good option.  Another good option are seats
from C4 Corvettes.  These are the hot items in Panteras, which
seem to have even less room than a TR.  Probably a bit more
expensive than a Miata, but some models come with motors to adjust
position, etc.

I have a German copy of the seats used in competition 914s.
Ferociously expensive, uncomfortable in typical German tradition,
but look the part and have great street cred.

Shane Ingate in NM

PS Starting electrical, and then insulation and drywall going into
the garagemahal.  Pam looked at it and said "It's bigger than a
house".  Heh, heh.

_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
messenger_052008


From rikrock at aol.com  Thu May  8 09:14:43 2008
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 11:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>
References: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA7F3560BC5677-11B8-17D2@webmail-me15.sysops.aol.com>

Dave didn't mention it, but I happen to know that it's a crank for a TR4 motor.? My thinking is that?a single oil hole for the main journals??is okay, but the rod journals?should be cross-drilled.

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: tony at tonydrews.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 2:32 pm
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling



Moldex is building a new crank for us and they have called with a question.  
They want to talk us into just single oil passage to the rod and main  
journals. I'm of the cross drilled opinion.
 
What have the rest of you done?
 
Time is of the essence. They are waiting for an answer and already 2 months  
late.
 
Dave Y.



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From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Thu May  8 09:15:43 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 11:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen Clothing
Message-ID: <002101c8b11e$6264af40$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

I should correct my email of last night and say that the embroidery will be on
the left breast pocket area, not right!


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 09:49:42 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 11:49:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
Message-ID: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>

I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal  that 
carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to  
each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the rod  
journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set, what we 
are  refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.
 
Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two  on 
the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very  
small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right 
now  to look and confirm.
 
Am I making it clear now?




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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From britbits at netzero.com  Thu May  8 12:48:42 2008
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 13:48:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>

Joe,

How does what you're doing compare with some of the installs being done?  

As an example here is a link to Paul Teglers page on making Miata seats fit
a Spitfire:

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/miataseats/index.html


Just curious.


Jim
Dallas

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
kit of hardware and adapter plates.

Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
candidates for the KIT.

Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser
operations, a little die work...likely stainless steel

Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in
the racing stables, too.

(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)

Thanks,

Joe   </HTML>
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net


From rikrock at aol.com  Thu May  8 13:03:12 2008
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 15:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
References: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>

Not exactly;-)

When I say "cross-drilled journal", I'm?talking about?the holes you can easily SEE when you look at the crank.? I don't know what to call the hole (passageway)?inside the crank that carries the oil from the main journal to the rod journal.

So,?my??question is... if you were having a TR4 crank custom built, how many holes that you can easily SEE in the main and rod jounals?ought there? be?? 

Thanks!

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: Rikrock at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling




I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal that carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the rod journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set, what we are refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.

?

Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two on the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right now to look and confirm.

?

Am I making it clear now?





Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Thu May  8 13:15:34 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 14:15:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com> <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>
Message-ID: <200805081915.m48JFffW516965@ns3.geneseo.net>

Nice site. Good pictures and dimensions.

The kit we're preparing positions the seat in the TR4 and TR6 so that 
the seat clears the outside trim and also clears a Moss type harness 
end on the tunnel. The new kit bolts to the floor using all four 
stock holes in the floor, and bolts to the seats using the holes 
already in the Miata seat rails.

The only work necessary on the Miata seats is that the ends of the 
lower half of the seat adjuster rails must be bent out straight as if 
to lay flat on the floor, and a locator peg on the bottom of the 
Miata rails must be cut off. The bending can be done with a vise or 
large wrench and the locator pegs are a job for a hack saw or die 
grinder with cutoff wheel.

As nearly as I can measure it, the Miata cushions are one inch higher 
at the "sit bones" than the stock seats.

At 01:48 PM 5/8/2008, Jim wrote:
>Joe,
>
>How does what you're doing compare with some of the installs being done?
>
>As an example here is a link to Paul Teglers page on making Miata seats fit
>a Spitfire:
>
>http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/miataseats/index.html
>
>
>Just curious.
>
>
>Jim
>Dallas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
>[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>N197TR4 at cs.com
>Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:07 PM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
>kit of hardware and adapter plates.
>
>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>candidates for the KIT.
>
>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser
>operations, a little die work...likely stainless steel
>
>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in
>the racing stables, too.
>
>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe   </HTML>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as vinttr4 at geneseo.net

uncle jack 


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu May  8 15:18:12 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:18:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>
References: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
	<8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <005201c8b151$06713950$9201a8c0@richardiipc>

I'm looking at the broken-off piece of my TR-4 crankshaft. It broke right
where it is supposed to, at the #3 throw.

The rear main journal has one hole about the size of a 5.5mm Allen wrench
angling in toward the throw. The #4 rod journal has a similar sized hole
running all the way across creating two oiling ports. There is also a
smaller (2mm Allen wrench) that goes half way through. It is on the outboard
side of the journal but apparently ends in the cross-drilled passageway,
thus creating a third, much smaller, oiling point.

When I backed out the Allen nut that appears to be an inspection port, there
is a batch of pasty grey stuff that looks like a bearing emulsion. 

Hope this helps.



Richard  L. Taylor, Jr.,  FAIA


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rikrock at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:03 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling

Not exactly;-)

When I say "cross-drilled journal", I'm?talking about?the holes you can
easily SEE when you look at the crank.? I don't know what to call the hole
(passageway)?inside the crank that carries the oil from the main journal to
the rod journal.

So,?my??question is... if you were having a TR4 crank custom built, how many
holes that you can easily SEE in the main and rod jounals?ought there? be?? 

Thanks!

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: Rikrock at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling




I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal that
carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to
each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the
rod journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set,
what we are refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.

?

Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two on
the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very
small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right
now to look and confirm.

?

Am I making it clear now?





Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as tarch at bellsouth.net


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 16:02:05 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 18:02:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A  little 
more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I  
have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May  8 16:10:18 2008
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:10:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
In-Reply-To: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?

I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes
me want to drive around wearing my helmet.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of DSPGTi at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A
little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300

Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
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From budscars at comcast.net  Thu May  8 17:10:34 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 16:10:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <00c301c8b160$b90d1c00$0302a8c0@Bud>

Very interesting....do any racecars use airbags?...Why or why not?..(I'm not 
speaking of the airbag Driving)
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
> anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes
> me want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A
> little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
> plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
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> _______________________________________________
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Thu May  8 18:09:01 2008
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 18:09:01 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <20080508.180901.3328.2.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

Airbag deployment timing is extremely critical. Too soon, useless. Too
late, probably do more damage then not having it. Filming an airbag
deployment at normal speed, it will probably not contain a single frame
of the fully inflated bag.
Frontal airbags in the steering wheel tend to break the neck of drivers
in full face helmets.
How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar?  
Just a few thoughts,
Bill

On Thu, 8 May 2008 17:10:18 -0500 "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
writes:
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
> anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
> 
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of 
> my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  
> Makes
> me want to drive around wearing my helmet.
> 
> Scott B.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
> 
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. 
> A
> little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
> plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
> 
> Dave Y.
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists 
> on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as wgrosenbach at juno.com


From britbits at netzero.com  Thu May  8 18:14:47 2008
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 19:14:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <004201c8b169$b2fa7520$92701342@jrg>

Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
shift lever, aka 007?

I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from danger.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
'76 DM Spitfire
and too many other toys 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barr,
Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?

I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes me
want to drive around wearing my helmet.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DSPGTi at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A little
more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300

Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
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From spreiss at verizon.net  Thu May  8 04:00:21 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 21:00:21 +1100
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts
Message-ID: <001401c8b0f2$5425d980$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

I'm trying to replace the motor mounts while I have the pan off. I have
unbolted both front mounts from the frame, as well as removed the nuts and
washers from the studs on top of the mount, but when I try to raise the engine
with the jack (and wood block) the whole front of the car wants to come up
with it. I thought the engine/trans would tip up the inch or so that would
appear enough to drop the mount out and I could do a quick change. I first
tried lifting with a cross block, both sides together. I have also shifted to
one side only. Could someone please tell me what I am missing?
Steve P.


From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:10:44 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 03:10:44 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <050920080310.19392.4823C0B40003B89800004BC02200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: William G Rosenbach <wgrosenbach at juno.com> 

> How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar? 

SCCA requires airbags to be de-activated in showroom classes.

Irv Korey


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:27:58 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 20:27:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <050920080310.19392.4823C0B40003B89800004BC02200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001701c8b184$adfdf400$0302a8c0@Bud>

Thanks friend..I hadn't even thought of that.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "William G Rosenbach" <wgrosenbach at juno.com>; <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: William G Rosenbach <wgrosenbach at juno.com> 
> 
>> How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar? 
> 
> SCCA requires airbags to be de-activated in showroom classes.
> 
> Irv Korey
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu May  8 21:36:29 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 20:36:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<004201c8b169$b2fa7520$92701342@jrg>
Message-ID: <00d101c8b185$de19ab10$3a16c548@RW>

Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing, 
not selling shoes at K Mart.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com>
To: "'Barr, Scott'" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
> shift lever, aka 007?
>
> I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
> traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from 
> danger.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire
> and too many other toys
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Barr,
> Scott
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
>
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
> considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes 
> me
> want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A 
> little
> more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
> have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 


From dave at microworks.net  Thu May  8 22:09:35 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 21:09:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Cool Videos
Message-ID: <20080509040958.QIKY10668.fed1rmmtao107.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>

http://www.itv-f1.com/VideoWorldwide.aspx

ITV (the F! broadcaster in Britain) has some cool videos on their site.

Martin Brundle and Martin Blundell drive some old F1 machinery round 
Silverstone like Jim Clark's Lotus 49 and a 250F.  Very cool

Love the video of him throwing the 250F around the track on three wheels


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Fri May  9 05:42:13 2008
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 06:42:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74BA3AB8@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

<<Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing>>

I was talking about the car I drive on the street.  We were talking about Miata seats, which I doubt people are putting in their race cars, either.
 
Frankly, I feel safer on the track than I do driving around on the street among the meandering behemoths, preoccupied with chatting with their kids, dialing their phones and fiddling with their navigation systems.



----- Original Message -----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net <fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net>
To: britbits at netzero.com <britbits at netzero.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu May 08 22:36:29 2008
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing, 
not selling shoes at K Mart.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com>
To: "'Barr, Scott'" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
> shift lever, aka 007?
>
> I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
> traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from 
> danger.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire
> and too many other toys
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Barr,
> Scott
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
>
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
> considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes 
> me
> want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A 
> little
> more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
> have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 
_______________________________________________
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  9 07:58:11 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 06:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <144784.19989.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Amen to that brother! The folks next to you on the racetrack were vetted by
instructors at some point before they got next to you so you can (usually)
expect at least some situational awareness. Even the Spec Miatas don't
tailgate as closely as Chicago traffic.
Plus there are no Hummers.
Gary
Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: "Barr, Scott"
<sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: kaskas at cox.net; britbits at netzero.com
Cc:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2008 6:42:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

<<Air bags? What the hell are you thinking
? If you are racing you are racing>>

I was talking about the car I drive on
the street.  We were talking about Miata seats, which I doubt people are
putting in their race cars, either.

Frankly, I feel safer on the track than I
do driving around on the street among the meandering behemoths, preoccupied
with chatting with their kids, dialing their phones and fiddling with their
navigation systems.


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  9 08:14:35 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 07:14:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts
Message-ID: <678006.7493.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On my TR4 the bell housing is so close to the firewall that the back of the trans has to drop before the engine can go up. Check for the top of the bell housing hitting the tunnel. If the engine won't even rock the inch to free one side's mount, you may need to remove the rear trans mount.
Also if sitting on the tires, lifting up a ~600# lump of iron unloads the suspension so much the car comes up inches from that alone.
Hope this helps.
Gary Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: Steven Preiss <spreiss at verizon.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2008 5:00:21 AM
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts

I'm trying to replace the motor mounts while I have the pan off. I have
unbolted both front mounts from the frame, as well as removed the nuts and
washers from the studs on top of the mount, but when I try to raise the engine
with the jack (and wood block) the whole front of the car wants to come up
with it. I thought the engine/trans would tip up the inch or so that would
appear enough to drop the mount out and I could do a quick change. I first
tried lifting with a cross block, both sides together. I have also shifted to
one side only. Could someone please tell me what I am missing?
Steve P.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as garygret at sbcglobal.net


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Fri May  9 09:37:26 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 08:37:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48246FB6.8050703@cyberspeedway.net>

     Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street 
seats have plenty of "road holding weight".

Greg Lund


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri May  9 11:40:00 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 13:40:00 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Triumph      Scrapers & Windage Trays
Message-ID: <be4.2f32b8b7.3555e670@cs.com>

Purchase Group:

Nearly 30 systems were placed in order with I - J  this morning and accepted. 

The Group Savings was about $900.

The Flate Rate for Shipping, Insurance, etc is $15.50 for the scrapers and 
$24.50 for the scraper and/or windage tray.

Lead Time from acceptance of order is about (4) Weeks. If there is a 
'hardship' order, please let me know, and I will see what I can do. Mark your 
calendars at about the 10th of June.

At the acceptance of the order, the charges for this order went to my 
Alexander Racing Visa Card.

I will Invoice each of you by mail with a hard copy. Due Immediately. I'll 
likely send these out on Monday.

Questions about installation, and such, should come to me.

Thank you very much....Joe A

   </HTML>


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May  9 13:59:17 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 15:59:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Commercial  message - Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4824AD15.9070809@bright.net>

Hello list. Just a follow-up to our previous announcement about Import 
Carlisle.  I will be there Thursday afternoon through about 4 pm 
Saturday, spaces D80 & 81. If there is something you want me to bring 
along, please let me know. Packing will take place Wednesday so we need 
any orders as soon as we can. Will have usual stock of stainless steel 
braid brake lines, gear reduction starters, springs and other suspension 
components, etc. Also some used engines, including Rover 3.9 short 
blocks, gearboxes and other "stuff". Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Fri May  9 16:10:20 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 17:10:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
Message-ID: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

Hi Gang,

 

In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.

 

I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?

 

I am starting to get things together to build another engine.

 

Mike


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Fri May  9 16:42:54 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 18:42:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs
Message-ID: <BLU127-W5448459576FDBDA1AA381C8CD30@phx.gbl>

Greg Lund wrote:

> Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street
> seats have plenty of "road holding weight".

I tried fitting Corbeau Clubmans before going with the 914 seats.
I found that the shoulder "ears" (or whatever you call those
things that keep your upper body in place) fouled with the B post.
The only way around it was to move the seat inwards towards the
driveshaft tunnel (which increases the offset to the pedals) or
bending the "ear" to provide clearance.  I did not want to own
the seats, so I did not do the bendy-thing.

There is zero chance of fitting Corbeau Clubmans (I tried the "narrow"
style - there is a larger version for those with larger posteriors)
in both driver and passenger locations, again because of interference
between the "ears".

Kirkey aluminum seats fit well, but are lousy for those 500-mile days.

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob
ile_052008


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri May  9 19:10:24 2008
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 19:10:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil thrower
Message-ID: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>

Question: when the oil thrower is in it's final position is it supposed to
be engaged with a woodruff key

or should it float on the crank ? Mine seems to want to reside between the
two woodruff keys.

Thanks for the help,

Jim G


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May  9 19:35:45 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 20:35:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil thrower
In-Reply-To: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>
References: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080510013618.21E75187677@autox.team.net>

It goes between the keys.  The slot is so you can get it over the 
outer key to its' "home" position.

- Tony

At 08:10 PM 5/9/2008, Jim Gray wrote:
>Question: when the oil thrower is in it's final position is it supposed to
>be engaged with a woodruff key
>
>or should it float on the crank ? Mine seems to want to reside between the
>two woodruff keys.
>
>Thanks for the help,
>
>Jim G
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Sat May 10 08:52:18 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 10:52:18 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <bda.29833c57.355710a2@aol.com>

A few years ago, I had my machinist redo the head on my engine.  I had used
this head for a number of seasons.  After he installed some nice looking skinny
stainless steel seats, reworked the valves, etc., he gently skimmed the face
to clean it up.  This last operation exposed some very faint hairline cracks
where a piston had come up and smacked the head.

While I was using this head, I was getting all sorts of burping to the catch
tank after coming in off of the track.  The fluid would always suck back out
of the catch tank as the engine cooled.  As a result, I was never suspicious of
the cracks, though I did seem to run hotter than normal.

With the present engine head, the coolant remains cooler and rarely goes to
the catch tank.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new
twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May 10 10:37:15 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:37:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

> Hi Gang,
>
>
>
> In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
> Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.
>
>
>
> I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
> pistons or do you know a good source?
>
>
>
> I am starting to get things together to build another engine.
>
>
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold


From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Sat May 10 13:40:04 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 14:40:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
	<8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

Thanks Chuck,

It sounds like you have had some trials also.

 

It appears that the locknut on the rocker worked loose. The tappet and
pushrod rotate in the direction that will tighten the valve adjuster which
will close up the tolerance. Then all hell breaks loose, valve head hits
piston, breaking off head then the head floats around in top of cylinder,
wreaking all sorts of havoc.

 

I wonder if I could mix them with my Arias if the weight and pit to deck
height is the same.

That is something to think about.

 

Mike

 

 

  

 

  _____  

From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Mike Munson
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

 

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi Gang,



In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.



I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?



I am starting to get things together to build another engine.



Mike
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




-- 
Chuck Arnold


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Sun May 11 09:21:35 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:21:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2><8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
	<000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
Message-ID: <001e01c8b37a$b39975e0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>

In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods (TR-4)
floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve open so it
blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and straightened
it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer. 

Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the trailer and
drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no funny noises
and typical power.

If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is just fine. 

Any foreboding warnings out there?

Richard  


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Munson
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 3:40 PM
To: 'Chuck Arnold'
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

Thanks Chuck,

It sounds like you have had some trials also.

 

It appears that the locknut on the rocker worked loose. The tappet and
pushrod rotate in the direction that will tighten the valve adjuster which
will close up the tolerance. Then all hell breaks loose, valve head hits
piston, breaking off head then the head floats around in top of cylinder,
wreaking all sorts of havoc.

 

I wonder if I could mix them with my Arias if the weight and pit to deck
height is the same.

That is something to think about.

 

Mike

 

 

  

 

  _____  

From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Mike Munson
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

 

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi Gang,



In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.



I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?



I am starting to get things together to build another engine.



Mike
Fot mailing list
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




-- 
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

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From BillDentin at aol.com  Sun May 11 11:38:42 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 13:38:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
Message-ID: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/11/2008 10:23:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tarch at bellsouth.net writes:


> In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods (TR-4)
> floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve open so it
> blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and straightened
> it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer. 
> 
> Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the trailer and
> drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no funny noises
> and typical power.
> 
> If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is just fine. 
> 
> Any foreboding warnings out there?
> 

Richard...

Unbelievable!  

Do you mind telling me what church do you go to?  

I may want to change.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From SpiwakD at aol.com  Sun May 11 15:00:21 2008
From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:00:21 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
Message-ID: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>

I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to  
put the bafflles and what size flow holes?



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun May 11 15:40:55 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 21:40:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
In-Reply-To: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>
References: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1520299244-1210542127-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-156840865-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I recently looked into this for my tr3.  Cambridge motorsport has an interesting one on their website.  It works with their alum sump.  L-brackets needed to be made to adapt it to the old factory alum sump (which I use.)
Kevin from I-J made me a baffle to go along with my scraper-windage tray setup. Which is soon to arrive.  It is only one baffle which works for fore-aft movement.  The cambridge unit looks like more of a grid.  My car ran for years trouble-free with nothing in the sump but oil.  I can send pics if you want of kevin johnson's new parts.  I bet he can make you whatever you want but it could take a while as he's super busy.

Steve b
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: SpiwakD at aol.com

Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:00:21 
To:fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info


I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to  
put the bafflles and what size flow holes?



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
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From spreiss at verizon.net  Sun May 11 02:06:12 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 19:06:12 +1100
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
Message-ID: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know that
the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to bend.
In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod. Seems
like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided it!
Steve P.


From spreiss at verizon.net  Sun May 11 06:02:16 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
Message-ID: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
(with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the crank?
If so, any tips or cautions?
Steve P.


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Sun May 11 22:30:27 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 21:30:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs]
Message-ID: <4827C7E3.4010309@cyberspeedway.net>

Shane,
     I attached the photos of the the Clubman seats installed in my 6. I
think the seats you tried must be a different model from mine or Corbeau
has changed them. I did offset them to the center of the car as much as
possible but moving the polar moment closer to the center of the car is
   always good.

Greg Lund

Shane Ingate wrote:
> Greg Lund wrote:
>  
>> Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street 
>> seats have plenty of "road holding weight".
> 
> I tried fitting Corbeau Clubmans before going with the 914 seats.
> I found that the shoulder "ears" (or whatever you call those 
> things that keep your upper body in place) fouled with the B post.
> The only way around it was to move the seat inwards towards the 
> driveshaft tunnel (which increases the offset to the pedals) or 
> bending the "ear" to provide clearance.  I did not want to own  
> the seats, so I did not do the bendy-thing.
> 
> There is zero chance of fitting Corbeau Clubmans (I tried the "narrow"
> style - there is a larger version for those with larger posteriors)
> in both driver and passenger locations, again because of interference 
> between the "ears".
> 
> Kirkey aluminum seats fit well, but are lousy for those 500-mile days.
> 
> Shane Ingate in NM
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
> http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mobile_052008


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 08:15:21 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 10:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Corbeau Clubman seats
In-Reply-To: <4827C577.3030707@cyberspeedway.net>
References: <BLU127-W5448459576FDBDA1AA381C8CD30@phx.gbl>
	<4827C577.3030707@cyberspeedway.net>
Message-ID: <BLU127-W39BBBB9ADD5BD7514DB0658CCC0@phx.gbl>

Amici,

Last week I wrote of the impossibility of fitting Corbeau Clubmans in my
TR.  I made a mistake; I was referring to Corbeau Forza seats that are
quite a deal wider than the Clubman.  The Clubmans do fit and look quite
good in a TR.

My apologies.  I call it a "senior moment".

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
1.
http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Mon May 12 09:44:15 2008
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MDunst/Gasket Works)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:44:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
Message-ID: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>

Group'

David Cizmas would like to participate in the FOT.   His bio is below.  Can
someone second this fellow please.

M




From: david cizmas
To: MDunst/Gasket Works
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Membership


      MDunst,
       I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car.  I
purchased the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I plan
to get it on the track this year.  Over the past few years I have been racing
VW Golfs in ITB and GP at Waterford Hills Road Racing course in MI.  Also, I
own a 1975 TR6 for my summer leisure driving.


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 10:05:56 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:05:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
In-Reply-To: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>
References: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W47BE966A498ED74A32AE09BACC0@phx.gbl>

Second. We can always use more TR6's to try and balance things out.

Marty



> Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:44:15 -0700> From: gasket.works at verizon.net> To:
fot at autox.team.net> Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request> > Group'> > David
Cizmas would like to participate in the FOT. His bio is below. Can> someone
second this fellow please.> > M> > > > > From: david cizmas> To: MDunst/Gasket
Works> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:42 PM> Subject: Re: Membership> > >
MDunst,> I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car. I>
purchased the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I
plan> to get it on the track this year. Over the past few years I have been
racing> VW Golfs in ITB and GP at Waterford Hills Road Racing course in MI.
Also, I> own a 1975 TR6 for my summer leisure driving.>
_______________________________________________>
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Fot mailing list> Fot at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot> > You are subscribed as
trmarty at hotmail.com
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kydrive_052008


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 10:15:15 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:15:15 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
Message-ID: <c37.2dd1e931.3559c713@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/12/08 7:43:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gasket.works at verizon.net writes:

<< I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car.  I  purchase
d the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I plan  to get 
it on the track this year >>

I will second Dave Cizmas.  Dave Wingett's TR-6 traveled very rapidly at
Nelson Ledges a few years ago.  At that time, he told me that he had too much
over-steer.  Maybe that is what caused him to crash it.  
**************
Wondering
what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 12 10:58:55 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 09:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>
References: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AD5FAA5-4954-49B2-87BE-6C31F3336BD3@bnj.com>

That's one of those questions you ask when you already know the answer  
but don't like it.

On May 11, 2008, at 10:38 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 05/11/2008 10:23:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tarch at bellsouth.net writes:
>
>
>> In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods  
>> (TR-4)
>> floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve  
>> open so it
>> blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and  
>> straightened
>> it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer.
>>
>> Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the  
>> trailer and
>> drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no  
>> funny noises
>> and typical power.
>>
>> If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is  
>> just fine.
>>
>> Any foreboding warnings out there?
>>
>
> Richard...
>
> Unbelievable!
>
> Do you mind telling me what church do you go to?
>
> I may want to change.
>
> Bill Dentinger
>
>
>
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 16:11:14 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:11:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
Message-ID: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/11/08 2:00:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SpiwakD at aol.com
writes:

<< I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to   
 put the baffles and what size flow holes? >>

My baffled oil pan is not very fancy.  I added two baffles at two different
levels in the front of a stock oil pan, based on Greg Solow's recommendations.
I anchored them from the windage plate using 1/4" all-thread rods.

I believe that most of my recent reliability has come from the following:

-Using Greg's flat faced oil pump pickup, with the screen on the bottom.
(Pain pulling off the oil pan from underneath the car, but doable.)
-Installing his oil cooler sandwich, and placing the oil cooler in front of
the radiator.
-Connecting the accusump to the center oil galley port.

I know.  There are all sorts of fancy baffled oil sumps out there with trap
doors (which can stick).
**************
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From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 16:33:14 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:33:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
Message-ID: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/11/08 8:05:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
spreiss at verizon.net writes:

<< Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine  (
with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the crank?  If
 so, any tips or cautions?  Steve P. >>

It is very easy to change out thrust washers from under the car.  Half of
both thrust washers come out when removing the center main bearing cap.  You ca
n
normally rotate the new upper half of the thrust washer into the grove while
the old thrust washer rotates out.

I would be surprised if you get both of the 0.005" thrust washers in.  I have
used one oversize thrust washer and one stock size thrust washer to reduce
end play.  At one time, I believe that you could buy 0.003" and 0.004" size
thrust washers.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists
on family favorites at AOL Food.

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From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 12 17:20:21 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:20:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
In-Reply-To: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>
References: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81D64E26-651F-40FC-A637-33F290E7E4C8@bnj.com>

Of the three I suspect the accusump is the biggest deal. I've done the  
same thing--connected my accusump to the oil galley, and fundamentally  
never have less than 40 or so pounds pressure there. Bound to be  
better than the occasional zero.

On May 12, 2008, at 3:11 PM, WEmery7451 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/11/08 2:00:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SpiwakD at aol.com
> writes:
>
> << I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows  
> where to
> put the baffles and what size flow holes? >>
>
> My baffled oil pan is not very fancy.  I added two baffles at two  
> different
> levels in the front of a stock oil pan, based on Greg Solow's  
> recommendations.
> I anchored them from the windage plate using 1/4" all-thread rods.
>
> I believe that most of my recent reliability has come from the  
> following:
>
> -Using Greg's flat faced oil pump pickup, with the screen on the  
> bottom.
> (Pain pulling off the oil pan from underneath the car, but doable.)
> -Installing his oil cooler sandwich, and placing the oil cooler in  
> front of
> the radiator.
> -Connecting the accusump to the center oil galley port.
>
> I know.  There are all sorts of fancy baffled oil sumps out there  
> with trap
> doors (which can stick).
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From spreiss at verizon.net  Mon May 12 03:00:00 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:00:00 +1100
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
References: <2ABDAB0C.0EBC793D.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<005901c8b444$e5153fd0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>
Message-ID: <006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Ted Schumaker of TSI Automotive also sells them (any length) and at a very
reasonable price.
S.P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; "'"Steven Preiss"'" <spreiss at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod


>
>
> What is the source for the recommended light-weight, high strength, hot
dog
> pushrod?
>
> RT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:15 PM
> To: "Steven Preiss"; "Richard Taylor"
> Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod
>
> Richard,
>
> I think we are assuming that you will change the bent push rod and check
the
> rest, as Steve suggests.
>
> Joe
>
> >I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
> >possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know
> that
> >the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to
> bend.
> >In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
> >adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
> >Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod.
Seems
> >like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided
> it!
> >Steve P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Fot mailing list
> >Fot at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 12 19:50:00 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:50:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [Thicko] Mosport VARAC Festival
In-Reply-To: <8E24061A09DC35498F658A7E25FA9E8707FEF498@dunn.pembroke.loc al>
References: <8E24061A09DC35498F658A7E25FA9E8707FEF498@dunn.pembroke.local>
Message-ID: <200805130150.m4D1o6J2382390@ns3.geneseo.net>

Keith Files is coming over from the UK to run this event in his 
ex-Sebring TR4, supported by Joe Alexander. Tony Drews will be 
running his Red Rocket TR4 supported by Jack Drews unless Jack gets 
his act together along with getting his car together to race against 
those two worthies.

At 07:34 PM 5/12/2008, Daniel Thompson wrote:
>Great event! Who is coming up this year?
>
>www.varac.ca
>
>
>
>Daniel Thompson
>GBC Asset Management Inc.
>514-848-0716
>_______________________________________________

uncle jack 


From billsohl at optonline.net  Mon May 12 20:18:15 2008
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:18:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
Message-ID: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>

I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest issue, they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards for editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.

Congratulations Mike.


Bill Sohl


From spreiss at verizon.net  Mon May 12 05:36:40 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:36:40 +1100
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Thanks, and thanks to all who have responded.
All that's left is to find out the stock thickness, and to measure what's in
there now to determine what thickness to order. Anyone know the stock
thickness? (Currently the endplay measures .012" using a feeler guage.)
S.P.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Fred & Mary Hodgson
  To: Steven Preiss
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [Fot] thrust washer replacement


  Steve-

  It can be done in-car without any great tribulation.  Drop the center main
cap & push the upper halves around one at a time(one out, one in, repeat).  Be
sure to check your end float with a dial indicator.  You may have to mix &
match standard & oversize to get the desired clearance.  If that turns out to
be the case, always put the heavier thrust washer to the rear as that's the
one that gets the most loading from stepping on the clutch.

  Fred Hodgson





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

  > Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
  > From: spreiss at verizon.net
  > To: fot at autox.team.net
  > Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
  >
  > Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
  > (with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
crank?
  > If so, any tips or cautions?
  > Steve P.
  > _______________________________________________
  > http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  >
  > You are subscribed as stlnyc at msn.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 12 23:12:45 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:12:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
In-Reply-To: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <390A74188789494A85E7E4699A4791A8@Mobil>

I would suppose that a stock push rod bends at too high load.
Maybe there was an over reving incident during race or testing that 
dislocated the ball joint, caused by not enough spring load for this high 
revolution. The next lift of the cam blocked the sping and bended the rod.

Hope this helps!

Cheers
Chris 


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 12 23:30:43 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:30:43 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter
In-Reply-To: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27><BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
	<001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <F45A748729C44EC0971A03953A0327AF@Mobil>

After I had some races I found out that the stock rev counter is too 
unprecise and does tend to wave on bumps.

I implanted a electronic device to the stock housing and printed a new scale 
on a CD lable sticker kit and fit this on the scale of the stock rev 
counter.

As electronic device I used a Porsche 924 rev counter. It has a 100mm scale 
and can handle the long Triumph pointer with ease.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Chris 


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue May 13 00:04:00 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:04:00 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27><BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl><001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<F45A748729C44EC0971A03953A0327AF@Mobil>
Message-ID: <007301c8b4bf$23751cd0$3a16c548@RW>

I've seen your label for the rev counter, and it is great looking
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter


> After I had some races I found out that the stock rev counter is too
> unprecise and does tend to wave on bumps.
>
> I implanted a electronic device to the stock housing and printed a new 
> scale
> on a CD lable sticker kit and fit this on the scale of the stock rev
> counter.
>
> As electronic device I used a Porsche 924 rev counter. It has a 100mm 
> scale
> and can handle the long Triumph pointer with ease.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Tue May 13 07:15:23 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:15:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
In-Reply-To: <006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <2ABDAB0C.0EBC793D.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<005901c8b444$e5153fd0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>
	<006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <001501c8b4fb$67bf9960$6401a8c0@richardiipc>

Now I'm wondering if my pushrod length could be the culprit for it jumping
out of the rocker socket. What's the drill for determining the proper
length?

RT


Subject: Re: [Fot] bent pushrod

Ted Schumaker of TSI Automotive also sells them (any length) and at a very
reasonable price.
S.P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; "'"Steven Preiss"'" <spreiss at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod


>
>
> What is the source for the recommended light-weight, high strength, hot
dog
> pushrod?
>
> RT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:15 PM
> To: "Steven Preiss"; "Richard Taylor"
> Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod
>
> Richard,
>
> I think we are assuming that you will change the bent push rod and check
the
> rest, as Steve suggests.
>
> Joe
>
> >I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
> >possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know
> that
> >the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to
> bend.
> >In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
> >adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
> >Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod.
Seems
> >like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided
> it!
> >Steve P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Fot mailing list
> >Fot at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue May 13 07:34:45 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:34:45 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
Message-ID: <c42.31098020.355af2f5@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/12/2008 9:33:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
billsohl at optonline.net writes:


> I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest 
> issue, they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These 
> awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club 
> publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards for 
> editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the 
> Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.
> 
> Congratulations Mike.
> 

AMEN to that, and no surprise, I might add.

Bill Dentinger



**************
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favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From igofaster at charter.net  Tue May 13 09:17:14 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 8:17:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12249.1210685642.1200.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080513111714.GZFB0.727613.root@fepweb13>

Just a note to share about John Esposito @ Quantum Mechanics. I called last friday and spoke to John about my transmission. We have a CVAR event at Eagles Canyon this weekend... I really needed to get my transmission back. John informed me that he had not gotten on it sooner, and per my previous discussions, he was going to warranty the gearbox and send it back, no charge.
I wasn't comfortable with that and insisted I send him SOMETHING for doing the right thing.
Once again, John OVERNIGHTED my tranny and it's setting on my counter here at work.
Can't say enough about a guy in this day and age, that went beyond expectations, and without a doubt, did the right thing!

Now... stabbing the tranny back into the GT6 tonight, hoping for the best... I sure would like to be racin' this weekend.... 
to FoT members going to ECR this weekend, I'm going up thursday afternoon. I don't think Bob Kramer is coming with the TR4...   anybody else?
Bobby Whitehead
#54 YELLOW CVAR TRIUMPH GT6+


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 13 10:19:55 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 16:19:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <1900855701-1210695666-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2597493-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have a tank full of race gas.  The gas is now 6 mos. old.  My next event isn't foe 2 or 3 months.  May I give this stuff to a friend with a very hot street car, a camaro with a 502 crate V8? Or for that matter any street car with no cat??
Could I leave it in and race with old gas?

Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Tue May 13 12:26:57 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:26:57 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <c07.360a0692.355b3771@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/13/08 9:21:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
colordog.1 at earthlink.net writes:

<<   I have a tank full of race gas.  The gas is now 6 mos. old.  My next event
 isn't foe 2 or 3 months.  May I give this stuff to a friend with a very hot st
reet car, a camera with a 502 crate V8? Or for that matter any street car with 
no cat??  Could I leave it in and race with old gas? >>

Unless you like to flush money down the commode, race with it.  I have used
older gas than this, and it didn't seem to make a difference.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.

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From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 13 12:44:22 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 18:44:22 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <2010168876-1210704336-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1557546584-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

It's hot-pink and smells like race fuel.  I'll use it.  

Steve
------Original Message------
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com
To: colordog.1 at earthlink.net
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: May 13, 2008 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Race gas

In a message dated 5/13/08 9:21:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time, colordog.1 at earthlink.net writes: > Unless you like to flush money down the commode, race with it. I have used older gas than this, and it didn't seem to make a difference. 


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.
 (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Tue May 13 12:56:04 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:56:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Seat Height
Message-ID: <4829E444.4080603@cyberspeedway.net>

Group,

     While on the subject of seats there were some changes in the Snell 
2005 rating which made the helmet taller and caught some guys with the 
2" above the roll cage rule. If you have height trouble take a look at 
lowering the seat. You don't need to see directly in front of the car. 
Mounting the seat directly on the floor sometimes helps. You can also 
take advantage of the "driver comfort" statement in the PCS and move the 
floor down with a hammer if there is no frame in the way. Unfortunately 
that driver comfort thing has always been open to interpretation - I 
think 12" wide rubber would be lot more comfortable.

Greg Lund


From johnkipping at inet.net.nz  Tue May 13 20:09:27 2008
From: johnkipping at inet.net.nz (John Kipping)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 14:09:27 +1200
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
In-Reply-To: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
	<001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <482A49D7.5010909@inet.net.nz>

Most people only sell thrusts in pairs - order a standard set and a 
+.005 set and you'll be fine. It's normal to fit one standard and one at 
+.005.

Steven Preiss wrote:
> Thanks, and thanks to all who have responded.
> All that's left is to find out the stock thickness, and to measure what's in
> there now to determine what thickness to order. Anyone know the stock
> thickness? (Currently the endplay measures .012" using a feeler guage.)
> S.P.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Fred & Mary Hodgson
>   To: Steven Preiss
>   Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:58 PM
>   Subject: RE: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
>
>
>   Steve-
>
>   It can be done in-car without any great tribulation.  Drop the center main
> cap & push the upper halves around one at a time(one out, one in, repeat).  Be
> sure to check your end float with a dial indicator.  You may have to mix &
> match standard & oversize to get the desired clearance.  If that turns out to
> be the case, always put the heavier thrust washer to the rear as that's the
> one that gets the most loading from stepping on the clutch.
>
>   Fred Hodgson
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
>   > Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
>   > From: spreiss at verizon.net
>   > To: fot at autox.team.net
>   > Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
>   >
>   > Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
>   > (with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
> crank?
>   > If so, any tips or cautions?
>   > Steve P.
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>   >
>   > Fot mailing list
>   > Fot at autox.team.net
>   > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>   >
>   > You are subscribed as stlnyc at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as johnkipping at inet.net.nz


From mlcooknj at msn.com  Tue May 13 20:32:22 2008
From: mlcooknj at msn.com (michael cook)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:32:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
In-Reply-To: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>
References: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>
Message-ID: <BAY142-W451C0738FC17F01A67EE41C8CE0@phx.gbl>

Bill-

Thanks for the congratulations and for spreading the word. I got my copy of
Old Cars Weekly todayThanks to other FOT folks who sent messages.

There's two other Triumph guys who deserve congratulations. The 6-Pack
magazine made the list,
edited by Todd Bermudez.

Also, Snic Braaapp of the Illinois Sports Owners Association, edited by Bob
Streepy!

Hope to see you at NJTA in a couple of weeks.

Mike


Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:18:15 -0400From: billsohl at optonline.netSubject: 2007
Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill AwardsTo: fot at autox.team.net;
bdischer at blakedischer.com; rbtr3a at cox.net; wrsmith at multipro.comCC:
mlcooknj at msn.com; tr_jag at yahoo.com



I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest issue,
they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These
awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club
publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards
for editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the
Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.

Congratulations Mike.


Bill Sohl


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May 14 10:16:19 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 09:16:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>

Being lazy and not trying to look it up.  What is the SCCA required diameter
of the inspection hole in the roll cage bar?
thanks,

Chuck Arnold


From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Wed May 14 18:43:59 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 19:43:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002701c8b624$c3b16580$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

I'm pretty sure its 3/16th because that's what mine are.
It's been through many inspections.



Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 11:16 AM
To: Friends
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size

Being lazy and not trying to look it up.  What is the SCCA required diameter
of the inspection hole in the roll cage bar?
thanks,

Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as fasttrs at mindspring.com


From jibjib at att.net  Wed May 14 19:13:59 2008
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 18:13:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
In-Reply-To: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>
References: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c8b628$f502fd20$cb01a8c0@HPPavilion>

If the 0.005's are too thick, the back of each bearing (the steel part, not
the bearing face) can be lapped down several thou, with fine sandpaper and a
flat surface.

Jack 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WEmery7451 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 3:33 PM
To: spreiss at verizon.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] thrust washer replacement

In a message dated 5/11/08 8:05:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
spreiss at verizon.net writes:

<< Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
( with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
crank?  If  so, any tips or cautions?  Steve P. >>

It is very easy to change out thrust washers from under the car.  Half of
both thrust washers come out when removing the center main bearing cap.  You
ca n normally rotate the new upper half of the thrust washer into the grove
while the old thrust washer rotates out.

I would be surprised if you get both of the 0.005" thrust washers in.  I
have used one oversize thrust washer and one stock size thrust washer to
reduce end play.  At one time, I believe that you could buy 0.003" and
0.004" size thrust washers.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.

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You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Thu May 15 06:41:21 2008
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (sgroh1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:41:21 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
Message-ID: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>

FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas for a good paddock space with power hook-up?

Thanks!

Steve Groh
SVRA #393
63 Spitfire


From jsnook at wcnet.org  Thu May 15 07:15:49 2008
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:15:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
References: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003901c8b68d$cbb65fb0$6701a8c0@JeffSnook>

Hi Steve, I'll be there, but racing my Lotus and not the TR3.  I usually
paddock in the grass paddock area and there is no electrical hookups there as
far as I know.  I believe to get power you need to be near the garages.

Vroom, vroom,

Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: sgroh1 at comcast.net
  To: fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:41 AM
  Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event


  FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas for a
good paddock space with power hook-up?

  Thanks!

  Steve Groh
  SVRA #393
  63 Spitfire
  _______________________________________________
  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Fot mailing list
  Fot at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

  You are subscribed as jsnook_gmi at wcnet.org


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Thu May 15 07:37:33 2008
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:37:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
References: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000801c8b690$d50e5010$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  Hi, I'm planning on going. I usually park next to my pal Dan Furey from
Columbus. We help each other on our cars, and I poach ppower from his
generator!-
  See you there.
  Bill Tobin Erie, PA TR6 Both car and driver are improving!---- Original
Message -----
  From: <sgroh1 at comcast.net>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:41 AM
  Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event


  > FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas
for a good paddock space with power hook-up?
  >
  > Thanks!
  >
  > Steve Groh
  > SVRA #393
  > 63 Spitfire
  > _______________________________________________
  > http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  >
  > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May 15 13:31:35 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:31:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
Message-ID: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>

A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold 
shown here:

http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe-px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36

I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock 
manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.

Anyone recognize it?

Thanks,
chris


From srcypher at mac.com  Thu May 15 14:54:33 2008
From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:54:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>

Looks custom to me; reminds me of the good parts, inc. triple ZS  
manifolds for TR6's

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=2


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 15, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
shown here:

http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe- 
px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36

I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.

Anyone recognize it?

Thanks,
chris
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as srcypher at mac.com


From goodparts at verizon.net  Thu May 15 16:00:25 2008
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 18:00:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
	<4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>
Message-ID: <482CB279.5060808@verizon.net>

Twasn't me.  At least not to my recollection.

Richard Good
Good Parts

Scott Cypher wrote:

>Looks custom to me; reminds me of the good parts, inc. triple ZS  
>manifolds for TR6's
>
>http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=2
>
>
>Thanks
>
>-Scott Cypher
>spitfireracer at xsmail.com
>SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
>Reading, PA
>http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher
>
>1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
>1971 TR6 TBD
>1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
>1976 TR7 Street
>
>
>"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
>Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
>of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
>
>On May 15, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
>
>A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
>shown here:
>
>http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe- 
>px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36
>
>I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
>manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.
>
>Anyone recognize it?
>
>Thanks,
>chris


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Thu May 15 18:56:14 2008
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 00:56:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Race Parts for Sale
Message-ID: <051620080056.6911.482CDBAE0007AB1A00001AFF22155670740A9D07009B079F9C9F00@comcast.net>

Posting this for a friend who has moved from his 1147 stuff to the 1300 Limited prep formula in H-Production.  You can contact me by reply or Chris directly...tell him I sent ya!

aaron


>From Chris Crisenbery:

I just purchased a 1982 Mini Pick-Up project that is being shipped over
from England in about a month and a half and I need two things cash and
a place to store it. 

So I need to make some room and turn a little cash to finish it off. 

I won't spend a ton of time with details, so just call or e-mail and
I'll run down the specs for you. Some of this stuff is stock and
suitable for the street, the racing engines are not! they are top notch
vintage or SCCA and are not streetable without lowering the compression
a BUNCH.

1. 1147cc engine with 303014 head - George Bauchman built 
2. 1147cc engine with 303014 head - George Bauchman built 
3. 1147cc engine - Rick Cline built (missing crank, but could be
supplied) 
4. Full prep rolling chassis, zero roll, custom a-arms (Great for F or
H) 
5. Rough racecar project roundtail Spitfire 
6. Multiple 1147cc stock engines and parts 
7. Multiple stock and 303014 heads all untouched 
8. Fiberglass fenders, bonnet and deck lid 
9. 4.11 rear ends 
10. Cline, Sargis and Huffacker Carbs 
11. Stock 1300cc heads 

If you don't see it on the list ask and I'll see what I have stashed
away. 
At this time very limited 1300cc stuff for sale. 

I'm willing to deal on multiple parts and engines and I will consider
all realistic offers as I would like to move this stuff soon. I am
serious about moving these parts but I didn't hit my head!  

Chris Crisenbery 
Home P/N (517) 789-8010 
Work P/N (517) 783-0710


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Thu May 15 23:58:28 2008
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 22:58:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8b719$dd6e5500$6401a8c0@TER2>

It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube manifold 
that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and early 60s. 
The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above the main 
manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction. The 
overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
                                                                             
                Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Kantarjiev" <cak at dimebank.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:31 PM
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold


>A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
> shown here:
>
> http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe-px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36
>
> I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
> manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.
>
> Anyone recognize it?
>
> Thanks,
> chris
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From cartravel at pobox.com  Fri May 16 06:15:02 2008
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 07:15:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>

Can someone tell me whether Watkins Glen is dog friendly?
Thanks,
Larry Young


From billsohl at optonline.net  Fri May 16 13:58:35 2008
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:58:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>

I presume you mean the track itself for the Vintage Race Weekend on Sept..

They have been since we have been going.
My son brings his German Sheppard and we've been regularly
bringing our Yorkshire Terrier.

I don't know if the track allows dogs for other events such as NASCAR which 
would
involve much larger crowds.

Bill Sohl
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:15 AM
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs


> Can someone tell me whether Watkins Glen is dog friendly?
> Thanks,
> Larry Young
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billsohl at optonline.net 


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 16 14:06:10 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:06:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Bring the leashes, please.

Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the track_. At 
least one was less than fortunate.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jerrybarr at charter.net  Fri May 16 14:15:01 2008
From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:15:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>

We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Bring the leashes, please.
>
> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
> track_. At
> least one was less than fortunate.
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Fri May 16 14:36:39 2008
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:36:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
	<FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>
Message-ID: <482DF057.5050402@141.com>

And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!

Hi Mike!   ;)

Susan   :)


Jerry Barr wrote:
> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>
>   
>> Hi,
>>
>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>
>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
>> track_. At
>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>
>> rml
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>> -----
>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>> -----
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>
>
>
>   

-- 
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"


From koblinger at verizon.net  Fri May 16 15:45:00 2008
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:45:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <1689858.642751210974300456.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

Rattlesnakes at Willow Springs, a particularly nasty variety known as the Mojave Green.

Cheers,
Kurt O.

>From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
>Date: 2008/05/16 Fri PM 03:36:39 CDT
>To: Jerry Barr <jerrybarr at charter.net>
>Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs

>And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!
>
>Hi Mike!   ;)
>
>Susan   :)
>
>
>Jerry Barr wrote:
>> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
>> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>>
>>   
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>>
>>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
>>> track_. At
>>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>>
>>> rml
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>> -----
>>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>> -----
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Fot mailing list
>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>>     
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>>
>>
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri May 16 15:51:27 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 17:51:27 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>

Ooh, haven't yet found the rattlers at WS but they are thick at  
Buttonwillow.  I'll keep my eyes out even more than usual.  We have  the Mohave Greens 
here in Vegas (well, the  mountains).



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From budscars at comcast.net  Fri May 16 16:00:15 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:00:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
References: <1689858.642751210974300456.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <01b201c8b7a0$3977ebf0$0202a8c0@Bud>

we have rattlers at Infineon out here, and also up at Thunderhill..In the 
days of Castle Rock Raceway in Colorado, the stewards warned drivers to 
'stay in your car' if you go off course..tons of rattlers...A friend told me 
a story..about that area..He was towing his H modified with his VW 
bus..after the races he came across a camp ground and was surprised that 
there was no one there...so he and his crew threw down their bags and hit 
the rack...In the morning, a Ranger pulled up..Gus stood up and told the 
ranger that would pay for the campsite now, because they were so tired the 
night before...The ranger replied..Oh, there's no problem...I was just 
surprised to see you here..I didn't think anyone camped here because there 
are so many rattlesnakes..Then Gus noticed the warning signs..whooohoo!.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <koblinger at verizon.net>
To: "Susan Kahler" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>; "Jerry Barr" 
<jerrybarr at charter.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs


> Rattlesnakes at Willow Springs, a particularly nasty variety known as the 
> Mojave Green.
>
> Cheers,
> Kurt O.
>
>>From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
>>Date: 2008/05/16 Fri PM 03:36:39 CDT
>>To: Jerry Barr <jerrybarr at charter.net>
>>Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
>
>>And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!
>>
>>Hi Mike!   ;)
>>
>>Susan   :)
>>
>>
>>Jerry Barr wrote:
>>> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
>>> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>>>
>>>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the
>>>> track_. At
>>>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>>>
>>>> rml
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>>> -----
>>>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>>>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>>>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>>> -----
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>> Fot mailing list
>>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>>
>>>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Fot mailing list
>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>-- 
>>There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude 
>>Quoting Idiot!"
>>_______________________________________________
>>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Fot mailing list
>>Fot at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From lunkercars at earthlink.net  Fri May 16 16:27:40 2008
From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg - Lunker Hilyer)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:27:40 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
References: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6A05BA57-EC9F-45EA-84F7-2A923AA1DE77@earthlink.net>

And don't forget about the kamikaze turtle at Hallett last year. And  
did you hear the one about the snail that was victim of a hit-and- 
run?... When the cops showed up to take his statement, the only thing  
he could say was... "it all happened so fast, I really don't remember  
what happened".
On the other hand, I had a real problem last weekend with one feral,  
lame dog that truly seemed to like watching vintage racing. For one  
entire run group, the poor old thing sat there [observing?] between  
turns 13 and 14, right in the best viewpoint. When animal control  
showed up, we in the tower made the change to the short track and  
then watched the Laurel & Hardy show as the dog catchers chased a  
old, limping dod from turn 12 to turn 2. After 45 mins., they came  
back saying they lost it in a high speed corner. Full track got under- 
way and we never saw the dog or the doigcatcher again.
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 # 314
Albuquerque NM
On May 16, 2008, at 3:51 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

> Ooh, haven't yet found the rattlers at WS but they are thick at
> Buttonwillow.  I'll keep my eyes out even more than usual.  We  
> have  the Mohave Greens
> here in Vegas (well, the  mountains).
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists  
> on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Fri May 16 16:44:28 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 18:44:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
References: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007501c8b7a6$66bbb190$6501a8c0@richardiipc>

After practice a couple of years ago I pitched a tent at Mid Ohio. Took a
little hike with a cold Bass Ale just to enjoy the quiet dusk and sweet
evening farm-land smells. A truly beautiful way to end a day of noise,
exhaust fumes and challenge. Got back to my camp and raccoons had eaten
every bit of the food in my chest. There was not even a bag of nuts left. 

Going to sleep hungry wasn't nearly as annoying as the repetitive nocturnal
return of the rest of my not-much-loved Procyonidae's family. 

Richard  


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Fri May 16 23:46:45 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:46:45 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
(off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
anyone found something suitable???
Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Fri May 16 23:50:47 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:50:47 +1000
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat May 17 00:10:44 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 08:10:44 +0200
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
References: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <D773D55192194C7A94F8525E29F2CA97@Mobil>

I'm not sure you'll be successful.
Weber don't have a wide range. You have to deside: Power at low or at high 
range.

I would suppose your injection to be more flexible than Webers when you 
alter the mixture curve plate (don't know the english name).

Cheers
Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers


> I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It 
> currently
> runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some 
> webers
> to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
> comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
> I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
> before I start out
> Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com 


From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Sat May 17 03:08:32 2008
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:08:32 +0100
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <480CEB800576B738@> (added by '')

Hi Terry,

Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the Lucas
PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam profile
of course).

Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years of
development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Terry and Cindy
Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com


From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Sat May 17 03:17:42 2008
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:17:42 +0100
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
Message-ID: <482C143600669751@> (added by postmaster@mail.o2.co.uk)

Terry,

If it is a GT6 that you are working on then another Jon, Jon Wolfe, here in
the UK has many years of racing Spitfires, GT6s, and TR7 V8s and has written
several books on the subject.

Google tr7v8-racing and click on Jon Wolfe's marvellous Triumph Racing
pages.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Files [mailto:keithfiles at btinternet.com] 
Sent: 17 May 2008 10:09
To: 'Terry and Cindy'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Fot] injection vs webers

Hi Terry,

Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the Lucas
PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam profile
of course).

Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years of
development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Terry and Cindy
Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 17 05:32:38 2008
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:32:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
References: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <482EC256.7070907@cfl.rr.com>

If memory serves me right, there is a short and long Lucas starter. I 
had the short version on my GT6 and it clears the Mueller headers that 
are on the car. Of course if you are running big time compression ratios 
then the Lucas probably won't have enough umph! to turn the engine over.

Terry and Cindy wrote:
> I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
> clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
> (off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
> which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
> prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
> anyone found something suitable???
> Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat May 17 08:11:08 2008
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (mark eginton)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:11:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] few questions
Message-ID: <20080517141107.DCDT4128.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>

Hi Joe,

 

My son and I are rebuilding Dads old race engine. I was looking out of
curiosity at your flywheel. Beautiful design, probably beyond my needs and
finances for an aggressive street car. I am considering running an old
lightened flywheel from my dads stash. Are these motors balanced neutral so
you can replace a flywheel if it does not work out? 

 

Dad hogged out a lot of material; when I was 16, I drove the car very hard
with this flywheel for a decade or so before replacing the engine and
putting the racing engine in the parts pile for future finances. I was going
to have it magnifluxed but my machinist said that tons of surface cracks
will mask anything serious. Any thoughts beyond fabricating a scatter
shield? I am planning an 1/8 steel band tacked to the trans cover and
anchored to the frame on either side.

 

The guys at BP northwest offered me quite a deal on 87mm piston / liner kit.
I have heard a couple of thoughts on these. One is that they are great
because they are thicker than stock liners, the other is that its better to
bore stock liners because the metal is better. I have a good set of 85mm
pistons and lots of liners, is it really worth the $425 to go to the 87mm.

 

I sent in another email to the group regarding which motor to build. I would
love to hear your thoughts. I can't wait to get this back on the road!

 

Thanks, hope life is treating you well,

 

Best,

 

M


From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Sat May 17 08:20:11 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 09:20:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
References: <480CEB800576B738@> (added by '')
Message-ID: <00ad01c8b829$1ee76430$84620143@your55e5f9e3d2>

up to 8000 RPM!!!

what are those boys doing for cranks and
the rest of the bottom end to clutch?

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Files" <keithfiles at btinternet.com>
To: "'Terry and Cindy'" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers


> Hi Terry,
>
> Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
> successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
> order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the 
> Lucas
> PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam 
> profile
> of course).
>
> Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
> was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years 
> of
> development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.
>
> Cheers, Keith.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Terry and Cindy
> Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers
>
> I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It 
> currently
> runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some 
> webers
> to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
> comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
> I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
> before I start out
> Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1446 - Release Date: 
> 5/16/2008 7:42 AM


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat May 17 08:29:11 2008
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (mark eginton)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:29:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Suppose you were building a motor for your favorite sunday
 street car
Message-ID: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>

Curious what people are happy with in a aggressive street TR3 motor for your
favorite Sunday street car? This car won't idle much, Upstate NY back roads
- Infrequent Track "club events" and autocross for fun, but no fender to
fender racing.

 

Specifically: is the TR4 head worth going to, I have plenty of TR3 heads,
would rather have the shelf space unless it makes a significant difference.
I may do some port matching but that's about it unless.

 

TR4A Cam or "D" Cam - have new old stock D cam from dads old stash.

 

Probably 87mm pistons kits from BP NW...

 

Pump gas and today's grade premium; what head thickness or compression ratio
can I get away with. 

 

Anyone got a rebuildable limited slip pumpkin in their stash; I accidently
threw one out when I broke a tooth street racing back in my teenage daze -
took me years to figure out why the car did not powerslide any more; live
and learn.

 

Any other thoughts, I have a lot of toys that I have to peanut-butter across
my discretionary funds; time is a little less of an issue.  

 

I accidentally sent a message meant for Joe to the group - apologies.

 

Looking forward to placing faces with email names and handles to many of you
this fall.

 

Loving spring!!!

 

Mark


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Thu May  8 07:52:14 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:52:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing- more info
References: <01d801c8b0b6$d69b2f50$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8b112$b9c3e550$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Tee Shirts - even though we don't have a design to show yet, you should 
expect price  will be about $16 for short sleeve and $20 for long sleeve.
Polo Shirts - someone mentioned they would like to see these as a choice and 
we could offer one if there is enough interest so please vote on this too. 
Probably $25

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <S.Janzen at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:54 PM
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing


> I'm writing to solicit opinions on clothing FOT proposes to offer in
> conjunction with the 2008 Watkins Glen Kastner Cup.  The clothing will be
> embroidered with FOT logos, and there will be FOT printed tee shirts with
> original Triumph-inspired artwork .  What I'd like you to do is take a 
> look at
> the website (link below) and shoot me an email indicating what items you 
> would
> be interested in buying.  If you think I have missed the mark entirely let 
> me
> know that too.  We will be offering everything at cost of production. 
> Costs
> are on the website.
>
> Here are the parameters:
>  1.. We are offering a) several clothing choices with the embroidered 
> logo,
> and b) high quality tee shirts (short and long sleeve if some of you want
> both) with a five color ink silk screen design by Greg Petrolati, 
> featuring an
> "all Triumph race " illustration on the back and the FOT logo with the 
> Prince
> of Parkness mace fist, flags, helmet, laurels etc on the front
>  2.. the embroidered logo will not, repeat not, be the five color logo
> described above that you have seen  printed on previous tee shirts.
> Unfortunately, it is too complicated to embroider in a 3" area on 
> clothing.
> The embroidered logo will be as shown on the website (link, below).  I am
> hopeful the proposed design will satisfiy most of you - if there is 
> universal
> revulsion to it, hey, I have no artistic ego that will suffer - the 
> embroidery
> could consist simply of the words without the graphic.
>  3.. We need to get orders for about 100 embroidered items (not 100 of the
> same shirt, but total hats, shirts, etc) to have the embroidery done
>  4.. We need about ten orders for each individual item to include them as
> clothing choices.
>  5.. We are not taking orders now.  This is only to determine interest or
> lack thereof.  If, for example, only two people respond to this and say 
> they
> will buy a baseball cap, we won't offer that as a choice when it's time to
> order.
>  6.. Based on your responses I'll come up with a short list and be back at
> you taking orders in the near term
>  7.. Tee shirts - we do not have the artwork ready for you to see yet, so 
> I
> am not asking for indications of interest at this time.  Greg created the 
> FOT
> logo, so you know the tee shirt art will be great!  We'll follow up on 
> this
> later when we can show you the great design!
>  8.. We are going to do pre-orders only.   Only orders recieved by a 
> deadline
> (to be determined) in advance of Watkins Glen will be produced.  There 
> will
> not be any items (except perhaps x-large tee shirts) that will be 
> available
> for purchase if you do not pre-order.
>  9.. Ted Shumacher will be orchestrating the mfg and delivery process, so
> anything you order can be paid for by credit card and shipped to you or 
> picked
> up from him at the Glen.
>  10.. Traditional FOT logo - for those of you that are a big fan of this, 
> as
> I am,  if there is sufficient interest, this can be produced as a sew-on
> patch.  Apparently the weaving process can make a much more detailed 
> design.
> Cost $7-$10
> Here's the link.  This was the best way I could come up with to show you 
> what
> items look like.  Sorry I am not proficient enough to set it up so you can
> vote right on the site, but simply send me a return email with an X next 
> to
> the item indicating your interest, using the list below.  Everything will 
> be
> available in the usual range of sizes.  Keep in mind that it is often cool 
> at
> the Glen in September.
>
> http://www.freewebs.com/sjanzen/
>
> Baseball Cap                    ____
> Long Sleeve Denim Shirt   ____
> Long Sleeve Twill Shirt      ____
> Columbia Jacket              ____
> Windshirt                        ____
> Sew-on Patch                 ____
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Sat May 17 16:48:57 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 18:48:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
Message-ID: <BLU127-W28774EACFFBC18D0D805AE8CCB0@phx.gbl>

Keith Files wrote:
> [snip] all of the successful TR5/6 racers in the
> UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in order to
> a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you
> get with the Lucas PI [snip]

There is a "black hole" in DCOEs when they transition
to the main circuit, but at least with Webers, you can
set the rpm where the stumble occurs.  This may be OK
for narrow-band rpm road racers, but it is a PITA
for autoX.

And for the FOTer who expressed surprise at 8K rpm in
the 6, this is possible with a nitrided cross-drilled
billet crank, something that is STILL not available in
the US (for less than $6K).  :(

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May 18 06:00:15 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:00:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
Message-ID: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a

>If memory serves me right, there is a short and long Lucas starter. I 
>had the short version on my GT6 and it clears the Mueller headers that 
>are on the car. Of course if you are running big time compression ratios 
>then the Lucas probably won't have enough umph! to turn the engine over.
>
>Terry and Cindy wrote:
>> I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
>> clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
>> (off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
>> which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
>> prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
>> anyone found something suitable???
>> Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From srcypher at mac.com  Sun May 18 06:53:32 2008
From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:53:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
References: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>

Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a  
direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Sun May 18 08:35:05 2008
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 10:35:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
References: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000401c8b8f4$5f21f0d0$6701a8c0@DFN4YV61>

At one time I was using a starter from a 94 Celica >cheap from the bone yard 
$10.00 I had to make a plate  to adapt to the hole on the back plate (Tr-6) 
It was a fairly simple mod
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Cypher" <srcypher at mac.com>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter


> Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
> I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...
>
> http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm
>
>
> Thanks
>
> -Scott Cypher
> spitfireracer at xsmail.com
> SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
> Reading, PA
> http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher
>
> 1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
> 1971 TR6 TBD
> 1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
> 1976 TR7 Street
>
>
> "I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.
> Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start
> of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
>
> On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a
> direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.
>
> joe a
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net 


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Mon May 19 06:27:19 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:27:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Trying to find Greg Petrolati
Message-ID: <002101c8b9ab$b12a8880$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Anybody know how to reach him?  I think he moved from Illinois and now his
email is bouncing back - thanks!


From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Mon May 19 07:01:52 2008
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b9b0$8230d480$2001a8c0@Dell5100Laptop>

I don't know if this will help anyone else, but this same starter
(Autozone pn 16878) is a direct replacement for an older commercially
modified starter that was on my TR4A.  All that was necessary was to
remove the gear and the front of the new starter's housing, being
careful of the gears inside, and replace that with the old starter's
housing and adapter, along with the original gear.  Don

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+ofbracing=nefcom.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+ofbracing=nefcom.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Scott Cypher
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:54 AM
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net; Terry and Cindy
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter

Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a  
direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as ofbracing at nefcom.net

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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon May 19 07:03:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:03:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing-AND NOW MORE INFO....
Message-ID: <d0a.249eec3b.3562d489@cs.com>

2nd send on this....too big the first time.

Scott,

> Great Selection by you & Ted. This is a lot of work. It should be rewarded 
> by early responses. I'd like to come up with DRIVER PREMIUM item, but need to 
> look at funding...
> 
> I met with Jack Woehrle today. HE IS OUR CHAMPION in this event. We will 
> have a very choice place to paddock. This will include a specicific location for 
> the WPTA HOSPITALITY TENT adjacent to a hard surface slab to conduct our own 
> TECH SESSIONS & to display prominent and significant TRIUMPHS during the 
> weekend. 
> 
> Also, these SIGNIFICANT TRIUMPHS will be afforded secure space in the TECH 
> BARN in the evenings. Contact me if you have a requirement for secure space. 
> 
> This will be the most incredible FOT EVENT OF THIS DECADE. 

> Joe Alexander
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >Tee Shirts - even though we don't have a design to show yet, you should 
> >expect price  will be about $16 for short sleeve and $20 for long sleeve.
> >Polo Shirts - someone mentioned they would like to see these as a choice 
> and 
> >we could offer one if there is enough interest so please vote on this too. 
> >Probably $25
> 

   </HTML>


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 19 07:30:25 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:30:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>

Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train 
damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the 
shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade 
8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in 
the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker 
shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.

I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is 
breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both 
resulting in collateral damage.

What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding

---prevention of breaking?

---prevention of backing out?



uncle jack 


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 19 08:23:45 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:23:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Suppose you were building a motor for your favorite
 sunday street car
In-Reply-To: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMedia
	Center>
References: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>
Message-ID: <200805191423.m4JENtOH130378@ns3.geneseo.net>

>My two cents worth for a warmed up street motor:


Mill head to give 9 to 9.5:1 compression ratio
install exhaust header
install street type (3/4) performance camshaft
install lighter flywheel

the first three will give you 15 to 20 hp increase, the lighter 
flywheel will give more acceleration.

All the other things that may be done to the engine return less bang 
for the buck, and most of the other mods help only from 3500 rpm up - 
so if it's a normal street driver, the engine will seldom see the rev 
range where it will benefit. If you want to win autocrosses, that's a 
different story.


uncle jack 


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May 19 11:13:33 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:13:33 EDT
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
Message-ID: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time, 
gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:


> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube 
> manifold 
> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and early 60s. 
> 
> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above the main 
> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction. The 
> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>                                                                              
> 
>                 Greg Solow
> 

By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we conclude there 
was no advantage?

Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom TR2 
manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was interesting, but in light 
of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an upgrade.

Bill 


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
family favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 19 12:57:19 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:57:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
In-Reply-To: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
References: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>

Never heard of this failure on this side of the pond.
What do you rev, what cam lift you use, what rocker do you use, which valve 
spings?

Maybe too much torgue on the bolts, or not enough torgue?
Stange thing. I use the old stock bolts and had no failure till now with a 
mileage of about 2000 mls.

Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs


> Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
> damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
> shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
> 8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
> the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
> shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.
>
> I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
> breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
> resulting in collateral damage.
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding
>
> ---prevention of breaking?
>
> ---prevention of backing out?
>
>
>
> uncle jack
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com 


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 19 13:03:48 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:03:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
In-Reply-To: <4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>
References: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
	<4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>
Message-ID: <AE48540D-BE85-467B-866C-F2F34EDE5630@bnj.com>

I've had them turn loose. I use ARP studs, aircraft nuts, and machined  
flat washers, a little bit of red locktite and nothing comes loose  
anymore. I also use the rocker stands that support the end of the  
rocker shaft.
On May 19, 2008, at 11:57 AM, MadMarx wrote:

> Never heard of this failure on this side of the pond.
> What do you rev, what cam lift you use, what rocker do you use,  
> which valve
> spings?
>
> Maybe too much torgue on the bolts, or not enough torgue?
> Stange thing. I use the old stock bolts and had no failure till now  
> with a
> mileage of about 2000 mls.
>
> Chris
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:30 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
>
>
>> Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
>> damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
>> shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
>> 8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
>> the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
>> shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.
>>
>> I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
>> breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
>> resulting in collateral damage.
>>
>> What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding
>>
>> ---prevention of breaking?
>>
>> ---prevention of backing out?
>>
>>
>>
>> uncle jack
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From REK46 at aol.com  Mon May 19 13:09:29 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 15:09:29 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <c06.35f5973d.35632a69@aol.com>

I've had pedestals break, but never a stud prob in 25 yrs


**************

Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.
 
     (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 19 13:34:19 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:34:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
References: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <88193492-4EE7-4BA9-8A67-7B7647E656EC@bnj.com>

It' probably did a nice job of keeping the exhaust manifold clean-- 
amals are notorious gas leakers. The only place I have Amals is on my  
Vincent and my Goldstars, and that's just for period authenticity.  
Otherwise they'd join my lucas distributors in the catapult.

On May 19, 2008, at 10:13 AM, billdentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
> gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:
>
>
>> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube
>> manifold
>> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and  
>> early 60s.
>>
>> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above  
>> the main
>> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction.  
>> The
>> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>>
>>
>>                Greg Solow
>>
>
> By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we  
> conclude there
> was no advantage?
>
> Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom  
> TR2
> manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was  
> interesting, but in light
> of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an  
> upgrade.
>
> Bill
>
>
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon May 19 14:04:02 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:04:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
References: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
	<88193492-4EE7-4BA9-8A67-7B7647E656EC@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <011501c8b9eb$7bdd6860$3a16c548@RW>

I did some work with the Amals way back when oil was being formed in the 
earth.  Waste of time. Sure looked good though.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <Billb at bnj.com>
To: <billdentin at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; <cak at dimebank.com>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold


> It' probably did a nice job of keeping the exhaust manifold clean-- 
> amals are notorious gas leakers. The only place I have Amals is on my
> Vincent and my Goldstars, and that's just for period authenticity.
> Otherwise they'd join my lucas distributors in the catapult.
>
> On May 19, 2008, at 10:13 AM, billdentin at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
>> gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:
>>
>>
>>> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube
>>> manifold
>>> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and
>>> early 60s.
>>>
>>> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above
>>> the main
>>> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction.
>>> The
>>> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>>>
>>>
>>>                Greg Solow
>>>
>>
>> By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we
>> conclude there
>> was no advantage?
>>
>> Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom
>> TR2
>> manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was
>> interesting, but in light
>> of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an
>> upgrade.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> **************
>> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
>> family favorites at AOL Food.
>>
>> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
>
> Bill Babcock
> Babcock & Jenkins
> Billb at bnj.com
> 503.936.7660
> www.bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Mon May 19 15:44:45 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 07:44:45 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1211220001.20507.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080519214443.ECSU1860.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

Thanks for all the input folks. It seems the Isuzu 2.6 starter will
basically bolt in, but it seems to be the exact same length once fitted, so
that does not help me. What I really wanted was a starter that was at least
1" shorter than the Lucas one. The same info must apply to TR6 etc. I was
sure someone had posted once about a conversion that was shorter.  Thanks
again
Terry


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon May 19 18:47:05 2008
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 00:47:05 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <20080519.204705.26603.0@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

Jack, I also use ARP studs, but with ARP washers and nuts.  I do not locktight
them, though.  I check rocker clearances every couple of races or if I
retorque the head, so typically they are never in there long enough,
untouched, to get loose.  The ARP studs have an Allen head at the top and I
just tighten them in with the Allen head.  So far they have never been loose.
I use BFE aluminum pedastals with the supports for rockers 1 and 8 and roller
rockers.  Joe(B)

-- "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net> wrote:
Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.

I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
resulting in collateral damage.

What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding

---prevention of breaking?

---prevention of backing out?



uncle jack
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net

_____________________________________________________________
Victim of medical malpractice?  Click here to find an expert lawyer to help
pursue your case.
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From bfeken at copper.net  Mon May 19 19:21:28 2008
From: bfeken at copper.net (BFEKen@copper.net)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 18:21:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
Message-ID: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>

Jack, We have been dealing with the pedestal stud problem for some years. It
started with the first high lift & very radical cams & after an extensive
investigation we found that the pedestals rocked back & forth
when the nuts were torque to about 25-30 ft-lbs. We first used grade
8 studs from Bowman, but as the stud torque remained at 25-30 ft-lbs
we still had problems. A chance call to Pete Cox revealed that the brits
did not have grade 8 studs, but had increased the torque to 40psi & that
the problem had just about been solved. After we supplied them with
grade 8 studs & they secured them with mini head nuts the problem was
gone.
We had ARP supply us with some special studs & the Brits used Mini
head nuts torque to 60 ft-pounds. To prevent the studs from unscrewing we put
them in with locktite.
 We have been supplying western racers with the kits , including the
mini head nuts for   $80.00. for several years & no failures. I am still a
bit shy about 60 ft-lbs & have been using 45 ft-lbs & locktite

Ken
British Frame & Engine


From igofaster at charter.net  Mon May 19 19:44:47 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 18:44:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Eagles Canyon CVAR May 2008
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080519214447.NMCUM.87112.root@fepweb15>

Hello FoT! 
Great weekend in North Texas for CVAR! The transmission from Quantum Mechanics worked perfectly! I did not have a chance to run until friday test and tune....The GT6 performed very well every time out... Sunday was a little hot, but, all in all, a very wonderful weekend for the Triumph GT6!
Joe Hovey trashed his engine the first day... 
I guess he and I were the only members of FoT racing although I heard Ed Bernard was there with his son doing corner work.
I can't say enough about how the CVAR crew really made me feel special for going through the changes they required. It was evident saturday morning drivers meeting when Bob Green our chief steward clearly stated, "Play within our rules, or go home". Silence followed by a huge round of applause! Our president , George Curl had 70 plus emails from Group 1 the night before (big cars) ... some personal remarks about the stance of vintage... one driver has been tossed out on the 13/13 rule and three more were in line...
I had a blast, best part was sunday with our last session of 20 minutes, I was NOT passed by anyone!!!   Hey... I'm glad to start in last and just FINISH while I get my seat time in....  really a great weekend for me!

All the best!

Bobby Whitehead
#54 YELLOW CVAR / Triumph GT6+


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon May 19 19:59:17 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:59:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>

Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?

Thanks,
Marty





_________________________________________________________________
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon May 19 20:25:36 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:25:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
>
>   

The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the 
shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit 
wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of 
the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring 
pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and 
stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to 
the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train 
is the one to flex.
 

In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow, 
with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the 
stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath 
the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts 
loosening up. 


What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly 
larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then 
installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.  
That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to 
hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the 
pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit, 
since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and 
over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth 
under load.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Mon May 19 20:38:50 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 22:38:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng><BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller rocker 
setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg 
out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs and 
hardened washers and nuts from ARP.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


> marty sukey wrote:
>> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
>> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
>>
>>
>
> The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
> shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
> wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
> the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
> pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
> stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to
> the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
> is the one to flex.
>
>
> In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
> with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the
> stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath
> the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
> loosening up.
>
>
> What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
> larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
> installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
> That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
> hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
> pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
> since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
> over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth
> under load.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> -- 
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking 
> distance....
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Mon May 19 21:50:29 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
Message-ID: <008701c8ba2c$a61301d0$0202a8c0@Bud>

Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire #21


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Tue May 20 07:03:42 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:03:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
Message-ID: <c72.31b12f89.3564262e@aol.com>

Front Spindles?  Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for  the 
Lotus crowd.  High spec material and all.
 
 
In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
budscars at comcast.net writes:

Hello  Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know  
of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at  dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire  #21
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You  are subscribed as  gt6steve at aol.com





**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
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From dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 20 07:37:34 2008
From: dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net (dale oesterle)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 06:37:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
In-Reply-To: <c72.31b12f89.3564262e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <245495.69143.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have two complete front gt6 sets, uprights, spindles, rotors, calipers (one with aluminum hubs; one minus calipers.)  Dale

Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:  Front Spindles? Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for the 
Lotus crowd. High spec material and all.


In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
budscars at comcast.net writes:

Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know 
of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire #21
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as gt6steve at aol.com





**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 20 09:42:54 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 08:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
	<005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805200842s3ef6648cg6b8cccc98818c2b@mail.gmail.com>

Michel,
Michael,
I will supply some pedestals if you will bore them and let me know the stud
diameter -- suggest we find a stock ARP stud/washer/bolts  to use if
possible.  This would be tested in a high compression, high lift long
duration cam, PI TR6 race car.

Scott -- what ARP stud number?  Stock diameter?

chuck

On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:38 PM, Scott Janzen <S.Janzen at comcast.net> wrote:

> Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller rocker
> setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg
> out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs and
> hardened washers and nuts from ARP.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
> To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs
>
>
> > marty sukey wrote:
> >> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
> >> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
> > shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
> > wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
> > the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
> > pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
> > stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to
> > the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
> > is the one to flex.
> >
> >
> > In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
> > with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the
> > stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath
> > the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
> > loosening up.
> >
> >
> > What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
> > larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
> > installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
> > That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
> > hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
> > pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
> > since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
> > over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth
> > under load.
> >
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > Michael Porter
> > Roswell, NM
> >
> >
> > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> > distance....
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue May 20 09:48:14 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 08:48:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
References: <245495.69143.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004101c8ba90$eb370e50$0202a8c0@Bud>

thanks to everyone for the help with the spindles
Racer Bud
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: dale oesterle
  To: Gt6steve at aol.com ; budscars at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net
  Cc: dabeaupre at gmail.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 6:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed


  I have two complete front gt6 sets, uprights, spindles, rotors, calipers
(one with aluminum hubs; one minus calipers.)  Dale

  Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
    Front Spindles? Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for the
    Lotus crowd. High spec material and all.


    In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
    budscars at comcast.net writes:

    Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you
have/know
    of
    some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
    thanks..
    Racer Bud
    spitfire #21
    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as gt6steve at aol.com





    **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family
    favorites at AOL Food.
    (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
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From dodo at texas.net  Tue May 20 10:02:57 2008
From: dodo at texas.net (Robert D. MacKenzie)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 11:02:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
Message-ID: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>

I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl installation I
started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer

I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct brackets/mounts
with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be installed
on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.

The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up new
lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the existing brake
lines.
Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.  

The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The front
brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried to bleed
the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort. When I
blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by themselves.  When
everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal effort but
no brakes.  Not good.

I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed to work
until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind again.  

I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes caused
the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can apply the
rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does not seem
to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting the two
pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that did not
make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side made no
difference.  I believe each individual component is working right, just not
together.

Before I go much further I have some basic questions:

Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller cylinder
on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice as the
other will always be open?

Any help/advice will be appreciated.

Thanks


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:26:07 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:26:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
References: <d4f.293df89c.35644e86@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007f01c8ba96$359e80e0$0202a8c0@Bud>

I forwarded the emails to Dean..I don't know what he's decided...just wanted
to thank everyone for the great response so far...I think they are for a
Brabham BT25?
racer Bud
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: REK46 at aol.com
  To: budscars at comcast.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 8:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed


  so where did you get?


  **************
  Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.
  (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:54:12 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
Message-ID: <003301c8ba9a$21769a90$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

If i understand the problem, the fronts are engaging beflre the rears - 
usually calipers need much more fluid than wheel cylinders - think of the 
relative piston area - so I am surprised it is not the other way around. 
One thing you have not mentioned is the bias bar, between the pedal arm and 
two piston pusrods, which I assume you have and is usually the means to 
adjust relative piston travel front to rear.

My GT6 set-up uses two girling clutch masters - 5/8 bore with a Tilton bias 
bar between them.  The "front" master cylinder piston travels more than the 
rear given the greater fluid needs of the calipers vs wheel cylinders, so 
the bias bar goes from being tilted one direction to the other as the front 
master piston travels much further.  I have thought about going to a 3/4 
bore for the front and leaving the rear the same, to push 50% more fluid to 
the front ("pi" r squared) with the same piston travel.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert D. MacKenzie" <dodo at texas.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire


>I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl installation 
>I
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct 
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be 
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the existing 
> brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried to 
> bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort. When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed to 
> work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes 
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can apply 
> the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting the 
> two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that did 
> not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side made 
> no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right, just 
> not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller 
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice as 
> the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 10:57:24 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:57:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
Message-ID: <8D04A195-3C98-41A0-B79E-8E83C8674D8E@bnj.com>

You've got me pretty confused here. You've set up a two-MC system and  
you have proportioning valves on it? What are they proportioning?
Most folks that do two MC brakes do the proportioning with a balance  
bar.  A proportioning valve reduces downstream pressure. In a single  
MC system so you can put it between the front and rear systems to have  
less pressure applied to the rear cylinder than the front. I don't  
know what they would be used for in a two mc system, and I assume  
that's your problem.

Placing a proportioning valve in the rear circuit only generally does  
work since it reduces the pressure at the rear brakes, but it gives a  
hard pedal. You'd be better off getting rid of the proportioning  
valves entirely and using a balance bar. I'm assuming you feed the  
front from one MC and the rear from the other. If this isn't the case,  
then do.
On May 20, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Robert D. MacKenzie wrote:

> I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl  
> installation I singley
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct  
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be  
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up  
> new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the  
> existing brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The  
> front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried  
> to bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort.  
> When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by  
> themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal  
> effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed  
> to work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind  
> again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes  
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can  
> apply the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does  
> not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting  
> the two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that  
> did not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side  
> made no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right,  
> just not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller  
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice  
> as the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:56:38 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
	<005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
	<8cbd782d0805200842s3ef6648cg6b8cccc98818c2b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004701c8ba9a$78b35e10$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

stock diameter.  I just called up ARP and told them the total length i needed
and thread.  They do not make a set specifically for rocker pedestals for this
car, so it is just some of their usual high quality hardware.  I had been
using aircraft grade washers and nuts but those are far softer than the ARP
stuff I now have.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Chuck Arnold
  To: Scott Janzen
  Cc: mdporter at dfn.com ; fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:42 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


  Michel,
  Michael,
  I will supply some pedestals if you will bore them and let me know the stud
diameter -- suggest we find a stock ARP stud/washer/bolts  to use if possible.
This would be tested in a high compression, high lift long duration cam, PI
TR6 race car.

  Scott -- what ARP stud number?  Stock diameter?

  chuck


  On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:38 PM, Scott Janzen <S.Janzen at comcast.net> wrote:

    Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller
rocker
    setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg
    out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs
and
    hardened washers and nuts from ARP.

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
    To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
    Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
    Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


    > marty sukey wrote:
    >> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is
this
    >> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
    >>
    >>
    >
    > The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
    > shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
    > wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
    > the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
    > pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
    > stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done
to
    > the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
    > is the one to flex.
    >
    >
    > In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
    > with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around
the
    > stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm
underneath
    > the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
    > loosening up.
    >
    >
    > What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
    > larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
    > installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
    > That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
    > hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
    > pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
    > since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
    > over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and
forth
    > under load.
    >
    >
    > Cheers.
    >
    > --
    >
    >
    > Michael Porter
    > Roswell, NM
    >
    >
    > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
    > distance....
    > _______________________________________________
    > http://www.team.net/donate.html
    >
    > Fot mailing list
    > Fot at autox.team.net
    > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
    >

    > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net

    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




  --
  Chuck Arnold


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 20 13:53:27 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 19:53:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Have you guys seen this site:

www.bringatrailer.com

It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.

Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 14:20:40 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 13:20:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
In-Reply-To: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <A577C633-59E3-4AB1-8A9F-F9C544D4B4A7@bnj.com>

Neat website, and a great example of the new trend in blogs--making  
money by having attractive content, mostly user-provided, and having  
lots of served advertising on the site that matches the interests of  
any reader. Mark, you should take a good hard look at how this is  
done. It generally takes multiple sites to make this work as a living,  
but I know of people that don't do anything else, and they make a  
darned good paycheck.

Bill


On May 20, 2008, at 12:53 PM, colordog.1 at earthlink.net wrote:

> Have you guys seen this site:
>
> www.bringatrailer.com
>
> It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.
>
> Steve
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue May 20 14:23:27 2008
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 15:23:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <7259605.1585311211315008373.JavaMail.root@vms070.mailsrvcs.net>

I look at it every day, right after I check my bank balance.

Kurt O.

>From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>Date: 2008/05/20 Tue PM 02:53:27 CDT
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer

>Have you guys seen this site:
>
>www.bringatrailer.com
>
>It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.
>
>Steve
>Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net


From westerneagleracing at att.net  Tue May 20 15:24:27 2008
From: westerneagleracing at att.net (westerneagleracing at att.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 21:24:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>

Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA event at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing 
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: -------------- 


> I look at it every day, right after I check my bank balance. 
> 
> Kurt O. 
> 
> >From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net 
> >Date: 2008/05/20 Tue PM 02:53:27 CDT 
> >To: fot at autox.team.net 
> >Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer 
> 
> >Have you guys seen this site: 
> > 
> >www.bringatrailer.com 
> > 
> >It's a collection of interesting cars for sale. 
> > 
> >Steve 
> >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile 
> >_______________________________________________ 
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> > 
> >Fot mailing list 
> >Fot at autox.team.net 
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
> > 
> >You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net 
> _______________________________________________ 
> http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> Fot mailing list 
> Fot at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
> 
> You are subscribed as westerneagleracing at att.net 


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Tue May 20 15:42:36 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 17:42:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
In-Reply-To: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
References: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
Message-ID: <006a01c8bac2$6bb8bcf0$6501a8c0@richardiipc>

The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would have
said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml

Richard  





Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does
anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA event
at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing 
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------

@bellsouth.net


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Tue May 20 18:18:55 2008
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 20:18:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008
Message-ID: <000c01c8bad8$432f8870$6601a8c0@Elliott>

Last weekend was the hillclimb.  On page 6 of the photos, there's a nice Peerless.  Might be Nigel Cluey.

http://photos.psy-online.co.uk/Prescott_08/


From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed May 21 05:47:29 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:47:29 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008
References: <000c01c8bad8$432f8870$6601a8c0@Elliott>
Message-ID: <001d01c8bb38$73855620$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Congrats to Standard-Triumph Forum in organising the event. Didn't go to Brooklands myself in the 
two or three (?) preceding years, so I guess anything is a compromise. At Prescott, they managed to 
stage a sort of static car show, though the hill climb obviously dominated. Isn't that mostly why we 
own these cars? Also, the use of the nearby steam railway the previous day as a road run and 
barbeque location was a good use of local resources. However, having seen many Standard-Triumph days 
myself - and all of them at Gaydon where there was no driving available, I was disappointed to see 
so few cars, in relative terms. I think everyone who turned up 'had several go's at the hill' but 
what saddened me was the absence of those who didn't want to drive but were happy to drive their 
cars to the event, exhibit them and meet their friends. As a result, there were lots of cars and 
people I failed to see.

 For that reason, Prescott was very disappointing for me and many Standard and Triumph cars (other 
than two seaters) were sadly conspicuous by their absence. I was there with the Triumph 
Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive Spitfire Raffle Prize which raised over US$500 in ticket sales on the 
Sunday - and thanks, Don for buying one. Others on FoT can see pix of the car in question at 
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?p=86  I'll be at next year's event but I DO hope we get a better 
turnout of the *complete* model range as a whole and not see it dominated by two seaters. After all, 
they only accounted for about 25% of total output in the post 1946 years. Thank goodness The 
Standard Motor Club was there with some truly stunning examples of cars built between 1924 and 1938.

Jonmac


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Elliott" <58tr3a at videotron.ca>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008


> Last weekend was the hillclimb.  On page 6 of the photos, there's a nice Peerless.  Might be Nigel 
> Cluey.
>
> http://photos.psy-online.co.uk/Prescott_08/
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com 


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 11:55:27 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 10:55:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <002601c8baa0$c1976f80$44c64e80$@aero>
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
	<8D04A195-3C98-41A0-B79E-8E83C8674D8E@bnj.com>
	<002601c8baa0$c1976f80$44c64e80$@aero>
Message-ID: <5E35D661-1E54-401C-9073-456B5FFE3009@bnj.com>

I don't really see how they could, or if they did, how they could work
effectively. Proportioning valves are basically a pressure reducer
that works dynamically, as you increase the pressure on the input side
you get a proportionate increase on the output side, but it's still
lower. That works okay in a single circuit, but it seems to me that it
wouldn't work well in a two-mc system. You'd have to press like hell
on the brakes, and a little mis-adjustment would give you no brakes at
all--not what I'd be shooting for. I don't like proportioning valves
at all.

You can make a balance bar by simply building a set of brackets with
different ratios for the attachment points. Peyote had a setup like
that which worked fine for many years. I added an adjustable bar and
gained nothing from it--the bracket approach works just as well if the
car is not super-sensitive to brake bias.


On May 20, 2008, at 10:41 AM, Robert MacKenzie wrote:

> Bill;
>
> Thanx for the help! I am equally confused.
>
> I think the valves were intended to take the place of a balance bar
> as the pistons are actuated be a single straight bracket attached to
> the brake pedal.  The fabrication of the mounting bracket is very
> good and I assumed it would all work together.  I looked at balance
> bars but cant find one that will work on a 2 inch center I now
> have.  Tilton sells a 2.5 inch balance bar and said it can be
> trimmed but I then loose most of the adjustment range.  I may have
> to go that route.
>
> Robert
>
>
> From: Bill Babcock [mailto:Billb at bnj.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:57 AM
> To: dodo at texas.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
>
> You've got me pretty confused here. You've set up a two-MC system
> and you have proportioning valves on it? What are they proportioning?
> Most folks that do two MC brakes do the proportioning with a balance
> bar.  A proportioning valve reduces downstream pressure. In a single
> MC system so you can put it between the front and rear systems to
> have less pressure applied to the rear cylinder than the front. I
> don't know what they would be used for in a two mc system, and I
> assume that's your problem.
>
> Placing a proportioning valve in the rear circuit only generally
> does work since it reduces the pressure at the rear brakes, but it
> gives a hard pedal. You'd be better off getting rid of the
> proportioning valves entirely and using a balance bar. I'm assuming
> you feed the front from one MC and the rear from the other. If this
> isn't the case, then do.
> On May 20, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Robert D. MacKenzie wrote:
>
>
> I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl
> installation I singley
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up
> new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the
> existing brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The
> front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried
> to bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort.
> When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by
> themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal
> effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed
> to work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind
> again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can
> apply the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does
> not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting
> the two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that
> did not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side
> made no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right,
> just not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice
> as the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
>
> Bill Babcock
> Babcock & Jenkins
> Billb at bnj.com
> 503.936.7660
> www.bnj.com
>
>
>

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From d.hesse at charter.net  Wed May 21 10:39:01 2008
From: d.hesse at charter.net (d.hesse at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 9:39:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <20080521123901.TM7C4.177663.root@fepweb05>

I'm not sure of the model, but Chris Beebe here in Madison, WI races what I believe is a Starliner Coupe with SVRA, VSCDA, etc. The car was supposedly run at one time in the Carrera Panamamericana. Chris runs Beebe Builds and Foreign Car Specialists and also races Loti.
Dave

---- Richard Taylor <tarch at bellsouth.net> wrote:

=============
The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would have
said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml

Richard





Great website. Thanks for sharing. Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does
anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe. There was one at the HMSA event
at Laguna. One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------

@bellsouth.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as d.hesse at charter.net


From REK46 at aol.com  Wed May 21 10:53:12 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:53:12 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
Message-ID: <ccd.346488a7.3565ad78@aol.com>

I agree with Bill....I tried the prop valve, it just limited rear brakes and 
put more work on the frts which then will fade.....use the dbl MC at 
5/8"...and if you want to , put a adj bal bar cable to set them up from 
cockpit.....best thing I ever did on the spit


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing 
burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed May 21 11:28:44 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 13:28:44 EDT
Subject: [Fot] What'd ya think?
Message-ID: <bbb.29ca9d43.3565b5cc@aol.com>

Amici...

Bob Wismer and I continue to tune our TORNADO TALISMAN, a fresh restoration.  
It has an English Ford drive train, but lots of TRIUMPH parts, which look to 
be GT6, SPITFIRE, or perhaps and in particular HERALD.

Right now we are not happy with the rear end ratio.  We are looking to 
replace it with something in the 3.7 to 3.9 range.  We have a second pumpkin.  Cast 
into the right side (facing the) pinion housing is LEYS and below it GD4.  The 
left side (as facing the housing) is 04984, and stamped on the bottom is SGA 
295.  Cast into the gear sump housing is STANPART P8.  It is further stamped 
with 304983.

Any help out there with what we might have, what will fit in it, and where we 
could get it?

Bill Dentinger
 


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Wed May 21 11:54:17 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:54:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
References: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
	<006a01c8bac2$6bb8bcf0$6501a8c0@richardiipc>
Message-ID: <001b01c8bb6b$b1ab7dc0$a26a0143@your55e5f9e3d2>

actually,  Bob Bourke penned the '53 stude cpe and
hardtops.  He worked for R.L. at the time.
Several years ago we towed a Stude based sports racer
the Excalibur Hawk to the Eyes on the Classics show at
the Edsel Ford Estate.   Stude and Porsche were the
featured marques and Bourke was there getting a lifetime
achievement award.  Lots of studes there including a 200
mph stude powered Avanti and a Stude Indy car circa '33.


art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <westerneagleracing at att.net>; <koblinger at verizon.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Bring a trailer


> The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would 
> have
> said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."
>
> http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
> Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, 
> does
> anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA 
> event
> at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
> does make it eligible for a lot of events.
> Ron Jacobs
> Western Eagle Racing
> -------------- Original message from 
> <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------
>
> @bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1456 - Release Date: 
> 5/20/2008 6:45 AM


From dave at microworks.net  Wed May 21 16:51:12 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:51:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: TR3 parts
Message-ID: <20080521225132.MJVL1277.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

Anybody have a lead for this guy?


>Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
>From: MICHAEL PAVLIK <mepavlik at yahoo.com>
>Subject: TR3 parts
>
>Dave, I do not remember how to add to the classified in the forum. I 
>am looking for TR3 fiberglass body parts, front apron and all 4 
>fenders. Anyone have any leads?  Mike Pavlik


From m-syork at comcast.net  Sun May 25 10:10:01 2008
From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 09:10:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SS brake lines and fittings
Message-ID: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>

Amici, Input please:

I have a friend who has owned a Cessna for years; he has offered to make
stainless brake lines for my TR3 racer. He would use 37 deg single flares
and b-nuts on all the fittings. I read through most of the threads on
hydraulic lines (from about a year ago) last night and most of you think 37
single flare is acceptable. Are there any issues with this method, any
better, easier ways? It looks like the standard b-nut (male to male)
fittings will thread right into the brake cylinder.

I've seen his work; it's almost too pretty for the race car.

What does everyone think?

Thanks in advance

Mark


From Billb at bnj.com  Sun May 25 14:37:09 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 13:37:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SS brake lines and fittings
In-Reply-To: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
References: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
Message-ID: <70736E83-11AB-4266-AA97-77D72EDCA45F@bnj.com>

Not just acceptable--the only way to go.
On May 25, 2008, at 9:10 AM, Mark York wrote:

> Amici, Input please:
>
> I have a friend who has owned a Cessna for years; he has offered to  
> make
> stainless brake lines for my TR3 racer. He would use 37 deg single  
> flares
> and b-nuts on all the fittings. I read through most of the threads on
> hydraulic lines (from about a year ago) last night and most of you  
> think 37
> single flare is acceptable. Are there any issues with this method, any
> better, easier ways? It looks like the standard b-nut (male to male)
> fittings will thread right into the brake cylinder.
>
> I've seen his work; it's almost too pretty for the race car.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun May 25 18:59:06 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 20:59:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Isky cam
Message-ID: <c81.29521c95.356b655a@aol.com>

Amici, can anybody supply a cam card, details or even opinions on a 1990  
Isky Z66+10 cam for a six cylinder?  I've got one virtually brand new but  it 
doesn't seem all that hot a cam from the catalog numbers.  Any idea what  lift 
the checking numbers were quoted for?
 
Not surprisingly, Isky can't be bothered...



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun May 25 19:11:12 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:11:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
Message-ID: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>

Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
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From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun May 25 19:12:51 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:12:51 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
Message-ID: <ca7.289b1303.356b6893@aol.com>

Jeez Marty, that's awful!  How bad is it?  Are you OK?   Other than a broken 
heart?



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun May 25 19:18:16 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 18:18:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601c8bece$60972e00$0802a8c0@Bud>

I'm very sorry to hear that......It may be difficult for you to say now, 
..but....move forward....who knows what The Gang can round up for you
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 6:11 PM
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey


> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the 
> TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Sun May 25 19:16:42 2008
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 20:16:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483A0F7A.1010506@141.com>

Where were you autocrossing that let you run into a light pole?  Are you 
okay????  Any way to save the 6?

Susan    :)


marty sukey wrote:
> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>
>
>
>   

-- 
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"


From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun May 25 19:52:03 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 19:52:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483A17C3.2060902@dfn.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
>   

Bummer. They don't move much, do they?

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun May 25 20:08:58 2008
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIKEEJCLAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

Tough break, sorry to hear about it.

Be sure to salvage those good looking Mags though.

Ken Gano


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
marty sukey
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 8:11 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey

Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 25 21:07:09 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 22:07:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080526030656.8A306187874@autox.team.net>

Wow.  My heart bleeds for you.  I hope you find a way to come back from that.

- Tony

At 08:11 PM 5/25/2008, marty sukey wrote:
>Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
>is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
>Marty


From m-syork at comcast.net  Mon May 26 21:33:08 2008
From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 20:33:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More brake line questions
Message-ID: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>

Amici

More TR3 brake questions: do the Girling master brake and clutch cylinders
use BSP pipe thread? What standard does the 37 deg aircraft hardware follow
(is it AN)? Is there an adapter available to use the 37 deg b-nuts on the
master cylinders?

Thanks in advance

Mark 


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 27 01:06:07 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 00:06:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More brake line questions
In-Reply-To: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
References: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
Message-ID: <10B39B99-6DBB-4651-B0AC-BF141BB6E8E3@bnj.com>

I suggest you search the archives of FOT, this was all discussed at  
length. It's a little challenging to get the master cylinder adapters  
to make 37 degree work, but they are out there. I can't testify to the  
thread on Girlings since I don't use them, but I doubt it's pipe  
thread. Generally brake parts have a flare at the end of the hole and  
matching one in the union that threads into it.

Most of the stuff I used came from aircraft spruce. As I recall, you  
can use 37 degree flares with a 45 degree male adapter as long as you  
use the tube sleeve to keep the flare stable. 37 degrees is the AN  
standard. As I recall, the flare nuts are AN 818 and the sleeves are  
AN 819. I think the AN832 bulkhead unions (steel, not aluminum) are  
what I used for my Tilton master cylinders.

The reason for using 37 degree bits is that the flare seals by  
stretching rather than by being compressed (and hardened). The tube  
sleeve applies pressure evenly on the flare and makes it seal better  
than 45 degree SAE bits.

There's also an article on the dimebank garage: http://www.dimebank.com/tech/BrakePlumbing.html

On May 26, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Mark York wrote:

> Amici
>
> More TR3 brake questions: do the Girling master brake and clutch  
> cylinders
> use BSP pipe thread? What standard does the 37 deg aircraft hardware  
> follow
> (is it AN)? Is there an adapter available to use the 37 deg b-nuts  
> on the
> master cylinders?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Tue May 27 06:08:03 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 08:08:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Isky cam
Message-ID: <BLU127-W408421CCCA96B5D7A5C0758CBD0@phx.gbl>

Steve,

> can anybody supply a cam card, details or even opinions on a 1990
> Isky Z66+10 cam for a six cylinder?

Details on this cam (and others) can be found at
http://triumph.hottr6.com/tr6cams.html

Shane Ingate in NM

Update on the Garagemahal: Electrical work in, and stucco going on this
week.

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld


From list at mackenzie.aero  Tue May 27 08:38:12 2008
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 09:38:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OT: Volvo parts needed
Message-ID: <005b01c8c007$4aecdc00$e0c69400$@aero>

Sorry for the off topic post but I have a friend in Chile who just built a
Road Racing Volvo 142 and is looking to up-grade the diff.

Can anyone recommend a source for a DANA LSD for a 1974  142 model with a
B20E engine and a M 45 gearbox?

Used, new anything will work.

Thanx!

Robert MacKenzie
robert at mackenzie.aero


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Wed May 28 08:43:56 2008
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 07:43:56 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Ken Kirk
Message-ID: <000301c8c0d1$4224b960$c66e2c20$@racer@comcast.net>

Ken:

 

Will you contact me off line at vintage.racer at comcast.net.  Thanks

 

Gary Horstkorta


From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Wed May 28 15:21:03 2008
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 17:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Distributor help
Message-ID: <003e01c8c108$bceb8570$2001a8c0@Dell5100Laptop>

I use a modified '79 Honda Accord distributor in my TR4 and I'm hoping
that there might be an electronic distributor expert on the lists who
can tell me if I'm doing a repair correctly.  During the last outing at
VIR my distributor quit, and had zero resistance at the internal pickup
coil (the two leads from the dizzy that go to the ignition box).  I
replaced it with a spare distributor and finished the weekend but now I
need to repair the broken unit.  Since I know the pickup coil was bad
(no resistance vs 372 ohms resistance on the good spare), I ordered a
replacement pickup coil from Autozone that matches perfectly except the
resistance on the new coil is 750 ohms, almost double what's in the
working spare.  According to everything I can find on the internet, 750
is correct resistance for that distributor, but since its double what's
in the other one I'm curious/concerned about whether I have the right
one.  Or, the real question might be "Does the resistance of the pickup
coil really matter?"  Any help will be appreciated. I hate to put it in
the car and burn out the new $50 pickup coil because it's the wrong one.
Thanks, Don

 


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From stutzmans at comcast.net  Wed May 28 17:16:14 2008
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzman)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 19:16:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <001201c8c118$d3703060$c70aa8c0@D9DGQM31>

Can anybody who is doing the Gold Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce Stutzman


From GRMTim at aol.com  Thu May 29 08:40:14 2008
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 10:40:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <d22.27de05c2.35701a4e@aol.com>

I needed all my passes, but glad to see some of the gang is going. Who else 
is going to the Gold Cup?

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040

 Can anybody who is doing the Gold Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce Stutzman



**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From dave at microworks.net  Thu May 29 09:10:42 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 08:10:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: [WtW] GT Racer
Message-ID: <20080529151437.JXCJ11242.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>

 From the Wheel-2-wheel list...


>I was chatting with a fellow in England this morning and he 
>mentioned a HD TV show called GT Racer. It's about vintage racing on 
>the great tracks. I search for and found this website 
>http://www.cargofilm-releasing.com/gtracer.html
>
>Does anyone know if it's available in the USA?


From LOddTR at aol.com  Thu May 29 18:36:35 2008
From: LOddTR at aol.com (LOddTR at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 20:36:35 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <cfd.34aa36fb.3570a613@aol.com>

Dean Tetterton will be there with his TR3, Rob Deanes with his TR4 and  I 
with R2D250.
 
Leo Oddi
 
 
In a message dated 5/29/2008 10:41:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
GRMTim at aol.com writes:

I needed  all my passes, but glad to see some of the gang is going. Who else 
is  going to the Gold Cup?

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic  Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports  magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone:  (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040

Can anybody who is doing the Gold  Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce  Stutzman



**************
Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You  are subscribed as  loddtr at aol.com





**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From lunkercars at earthlink.net  Fri May 30 10:36:14 2008
From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 10:36:14 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
Message-ID: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>

Big thanks to all who responded to my post "Looking for a racer" of  
awhile back. And especially to Bob Miller who's tip led to the  
purchase of Mike Alex's TR4 from the Denver area.
My friend Bill Swope brought the car back to Albuquerque last week  
and I got a look - very nicely prepared TR4 that looks to have been a  
race car all it's life. Bill is still going thru the reams of  
documents that came with the car, but there are indications that it  
may have been a Group 44 car at one time. Lots of neat mods. that  
I'll get into later. It is white with green #06 as it came from  
Connecticut a few years back. Prior to that it may have been orange w/ 
yellow [#8?] also in the Connecticut area. Has a "Canada" decal on  
the dash, the significance of which is not yet known. It is not what  
I envisioned as a "drive to the track racer" but I guess Bill has a  
more expansive definition of that than I... His maiden voyage was  
down the street of his quiet neighborhood right past a motorcycle cop  
writing someone else a ticket. Bill parked, got out, walked up to the  
cop and said "am I in trouble? I'll go get the trailer if you want"  
Thus disarmed, the officer just told him to get it home! I've never  
quite had such luck. Sounds just right for the FoT to me!
Bill has now come full circle - his first race car was a TR4 back in  
'63. His current racing stable includes a Beach/Lotus SR, a couple  
Brabham FA's and wife Janice's 356 DP and decades of club racing.  
Time to get him on the list. Therefor my nomination of Bill Swope  
[bswope959 at msn.com] to the FoT. With any luck we might even get him  
[& Janice] to Watkins Glen. How 'bout a second Henry?
Thanks again,
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM

P.S. Where can I send a few $$ to help keep our wonderful FoT going?


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 30 10:58:43 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 12:58:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
In-Reply-To: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>
References: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805301257210.31545@isis.mit.edu>

SECOND

I saw that car for sale about 6 years or so ago. Looked like a pretty nice 
car then.

I LOVE the cop story. Fantastic - Bill has brass ones. Def. FOT material.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Fri May 30 17:46:21 2008
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 17:46:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
Message-ID: <20080530.174622.1344.2.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

I support that nomination as well.
Bill
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mKiv8uBdXBgMBoEIHauS9hp2jU4f51GdoJv6l0UsBBL0ljs/


From rblake36 at yahoo.com  Sat May 31 21:09:16 2008
From: rblake36 at yahoo.com (Robert Blake)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:09:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4a on ebay
Message-ID: <182567.58610.qm@web58511.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know the history of this car?  I have tried to contact the owner to no avail.
   
  Thanks


From kaskas at cox.net  Sat May 31 23:28:47 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 22:28:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT-6 car
Message-ID: <013f01c8c3a8$5dd2d780$3a16c548@RW>

I'v e got a line on a pretty nice looking GT6 car that has been sitting for
about 12 years, has 41,000 miles and has rusted sills and floors but otherwise
looks pretty good.  Any interest.  No price YET, but looking into it. Mid-
west location.


From robertten1 at aol.com  Thu May  1 05:01:11 2008
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 07:01:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
Message-ID: <8CA7991CCC49B15-430-206B@webmail-stg-d02.sysops.aol.com>

Small CNC Robodrill.? All depends on how large a part you are looking to be able to machine.



Bob T

'64 Spit GT? autocrosser


-----Original Message-----
From: James McAndrew <jdment at suddenlink.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:02 pm
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine




I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT. 

 

I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small prototype
Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).

 

I don't need a Bridgeport.

 

I have 220v single phase in my garage.

 

What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power feed?

 

Thanks

Jim McAndrew

Tyler, Texas
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Thu May  1 06:42:44 2008
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 08:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
	<00e101c8ab3a$8be14bb0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>
	<82D103E7-4792-4343-AA96-89FDFE16F7DD@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <00ff01c8ab88$dd79fb40$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

Hi all, A source for used equipment: Plaza Machinery in Bethel, VT. He can
ship anything anywhere.
Very honest and reputable fellow. Sells quality equipment.
www.plazamachinery.com
Joe at plazamachinery.com
Again, no financial interest, just a good guy to deal with.
Bill Tobin  Erie, PA Vintage TR6  Gingerman bound

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Babcock
  To: WILLIAM TOBIN
  Cc: James McAndrew ; fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] OT Milling machine


  I agree that the american or german made machines are worth the bucks and
better used than the chinese stuff is new, but I've found this shoptask
machine to be pretty handy for my middling skills--the little I remember from
machine shop class in High School reinforced with a bunch of skimmed books. I
think it takes about three years of serious effort to be a machinist of any
quality and ten years and some talent before you really know what you're
doing.


  Used to be a lot of used good machinery around, and I had a friend that sold
the stuff. When I finally had space to put together a machine shop he was out
of biz--told me the sources of used equipment had pretty much dried up and the
available stuff was junk. Kind of makes sense--when every little town had a
machine shop the equipment moved around a lot. Most of those small shops are
gone, and the gear serious people buy today is for lights out machining. When
one of those operations goes BK there's nothing us regular folks can use.


  I spent a lot of time perusing eBay and other sources before I bought my
shoptask. I gave up.

  On Apr 30, 2008, at 5:22 PM, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote:


    Hi, this is along the lines of discusion about automotive lifts of a few
    weeks ago. You need one.
    Go for the Bridgeport, with digital readout and power feed. Yeah, the
Griz
    or Jet or Enco are ok, but you can get a used Bridgeport (or Clausing or
    other brands) for about the same money and it will outlast the lesser
    brands. Plus, was made in Conn.or somewhere domestically and parts or
    accessories are readily available.
    I have an Index brand milling machine, built in 1944; I have the original
    mfr. documents. War Dept OK'd! It's smooth as silk and much more accurate
    than I'll ever be. (Before I bought it, I'd never run one!)
    I also have a Rutland brand import; works ok but not a Bridgeport.
Probably
    came from the same factory as the Enco, etc.
    I have a couple sources for used equipment; give me a shout and I'll give
    you details. And no I don't have a financial interest in them. Just
trying
    to help.
    Hope this helps; my 2 francs worth.
    Thanks, Bill Tobin  Erie Pa Vintage TR6
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "James McAndrew" <jdment at suddenlink.net>
    To: <fot at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 10:02 PM
    Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine



      I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT.







      I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small
prototype

      Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).







      I don't need a Bridgeport.







      I have 220v single phase in my garage.







      What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power
feed?







      Thanks



      Jim McAndrew



      Tyler, Texas

      _______________________________________________

      http://www.team.net/donate.html



      Fot mailing list

      Fot at autox.team.net

      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot



      You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net

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    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

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  Bill Babcock
  Babcock & Jenkins
  Billb at bnj.com
  503.936.7660
  www.bnj.com


From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May  1 12:54:02 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 11:54:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <481A11CA.9000005@dimebank.com>

If you have room for a Bridgeport and can find one used, get it. Yes, 
it's big. But when you find yourself faced with a job that needs the 
travel or table space, a smaller machine just won't do.

If you don't have room for a Bridgeport, look for a Clausing 8530 or 
8520 (in that order). About 1/2 the size of the B'port, almost as rigid.

Don't forget to budget for 'mill jewelry'. I probably have more invested 
in that than my 8530 cost up front. The other advantage of the 
Bridgeport is that the tooling that fits it is cheapest; a smaller 
machine takes parts and accessories that the industry considers oddball, 
and thus charges more for.

Direct/digital readouts are wonderful, but certainly not necessary if 
you're methodical and careful. Power feed is occasionally useful - I 
have it on a single table axis - especially if you're doing long slow 
cuts or facing something with a fly cutter.

I'd put the money into a air misting lube system instead, myself, if I 
had to choose.

Best,
chris


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Thu May  1 14:58:23 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 13:58:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
References: <000c01c8ab2f$62666730$6901a8c0@dogrun>
Message-ID: <200805012058.m41KwOY7017308@mail168c2.megamailservers.com>

James,
      The only vise to use if you have any choice is a Kurt. Everything 
else I have seen or used will move the work when you clamp.
      If you get a Bridgeport or similar 3 phase machine, the easiest 
way to convert single pahse to 3 phase is a variable frequency drive 
(VFD, inverter for those ebay searches). They all output 3 phase, just 
make sure to get a 220-240 volt unit. They will all take a sigle phase 
input even if they don't admit to it. If they have no single phase 
rating just  oversize it by about 50% - if you need 2 hp buy at least a 
3hp. Make sure you can get documentation for whatever you buy so you 
know how to wire it and set the limits for speed, accel, decel, & remote 
variable speed.
    VFDs work far better than the cheap 3 phase converters which really 
need an idler motor to smooth them out. If you have the time and spare 
parts you can make a converter with some capacitors and a 3 phase motor 
but it is  big, noisy, and needs to be tuned to the load. There are many 
plans floating around the net for these.

Greg Lund

James McAndrew wrote:
> I need advice from the incredible fund of knowledge of the FOT. 
> 
>  
> 
> I'm looking into buying a small milling machine (to make small prototype
> Triumph parts- okay now I'm back on topic).
> 
>  
> 
> I don't need a Bridgeport.
> 
>  
> 
> I have 220v single phase in my garage.
> 
>  
> 
> What should I get?  Jet? Grizzly? Do I need digital readout? Power feed?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim McAndrew
> 
> Tyler, Texas
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as gtlund at cyberspeedway.net


From igofaster at charter.net  Thu May  1 14:59:28 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 13:59:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1209664800.9936.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>

I really have to give a huge THANK YOU to Quantum Mechanics. Some of you guys know the situation I've had with my GT6 gearbox and the T50 Toyota...
I purchased a QUANTUM MECHANICS gearbox from Robert @ Quantum. 
I had issues with the tranny and did not get any runs out of it, unless you count 1 1/2 laps at Hallett...
I sent the transmission back to Quantum. I talked to Robert today @ Quantum, he said 2nd gear had gone out. All the other gears were fine. I told Robert I may or may not have aligned the hydraulic release bearing up properly, and I insisted i may have been something I did that was wrong.
He insisted on repairing the geabox and shipping it back to me for NO CHARGE! I tried to offer money for shipping and he turned it down, twice!
Guys and gals, it doesn't get any better than that.
We have Eagles Canyon here in N. Texas this month in two weeks. I bought a new clutch and slave cylinder from Vicky Brit.. I'm going to go ahead with pulling out my 'parts bin' noisey tranny and hop I get the gearbox here in time to do ECR.

HUGE plug for Robert @ Quantum Mechanics FoT!

Bobby Whitehead
#54 CVAR TRIUMPH GT6


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Thu May  1 15:38:48 2008
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 21:38:48 GMT
Subject: [Fot] OT Milling machine
Message-ID: <20080501.173848.7044.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

I agree about the Bridgeport.  I have an older belt driven speed changer
model.  Got it from a state technical school that auctioned them off when
buying new ones.  I use it often.  A little play in the ways, but I can
usually hold to 5/1000 inch tolerance.  The other machine that I use all the
time is a lathe.  I have a 9" South Bend belt driven lathe.  It can do most of
what I want, but there are times that a larger one would be helpful.  There I
go, another guy not satisfied with the size of my tool.  Joe(B)

-- Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:
If you have room for a Bridgeport and can find one used, get it. Yes,
it's big. But when you find yourself faced with a job that needs the
travel or table space, a smaller machine just won't do.

If you don't have room for a Bridgeport, look for a Clausing 8530 or
8520 (in that order). About 1/2 the size of the B'port, almost as rigid.

Don't forget to budget for 'mill jewelry'. I probably have more invested
in that than my 8530 cost up front. The other advantage of the
Bridgeport is that the tooling that fits it is cheapest; a smaller
machine takes parts and accessories that the industry considers oddball,
and thus charges more for.

Direct/digital readouts are wonderful, but certainly not necessary if
you're methodical and careful. Power feed is occasionally useful - I
have it on a single table axis - especially if you're doing long slow
cuts or facing something with a fly cutter.

I'd put the money into a air misting lube system instead, myself, if I
had to choose.

Best,
chris
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net

_____________________________________________________________
Click to get a free auto insurance quotes from top companies.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2211/fc/Ioyw6ijmNj76jZw3asbxSsZko1Pt0L
5vCz7wrlkLNgER48J5lHU10W/?count=1234567890


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu May  1 15:49:13 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:49:13 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Steel Flywheels - (2) Left....next production run late fall
 2008 for TR4 / TR6
Message-ID: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>

FoT:

I have shipped nearly all of the steel flywheels ordered.

I have two steel wheels left from this run. They are available.

When these are gone, it may be October/November when I run more. At that time 
I hope to run TR6 Flywheels, as well, and combine the order to lower the cost.
 
(Volume combined with commonality between the two flywheels will be taken 
into consideration in the production costs)

If you want to put your name on one of TR4/TR6 Flywheels to be run late fall, 
let me know. I will Excel Spreadsheet your interest. Advance orders will 
benefit from discount.

THANKS!

Joe A

   </HTML>


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May  1 15:53:25 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:53:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>
References: <20080501165928.RI3EQ.453159.root@fepweb13>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805011752430.30777@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 1 May 2008 igofaster at charter.net wrote:

> HUGE plug for Robert @ Quantum Mechanics FoT!

I think it's "John" at Quantum Mechanics. As in John Esposito.

Good people.

> Bobby Whitehead
> #54 CVAR TRIUMPH GT6

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Thu May  1 17:10:57 2008
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 17:10:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steel Flywheels - (2) Left....next production run late
 fall 2008 for TR4 / TR6
In-Reply-To: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>
References: <be6.2525ce34.354b94d9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <0BBC8ADB-7D7E-4C84-91F8-1B904C62081B@earthlink.net>

I got mine and it is truly jewelry quality. This piece, used with the  
[slightly lighter] diaphragm style clutch cover will save nearly 30  
lbs. of rotational weight. Highly recommended!
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM
On May 1, 2008, at 3:49 PM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

> FoT:
>
> I have shipped nearly all of the steel flywheels ordered.
>
> I have two steel wheels left from this run. They are available.
>
> When these are gone, it may be October/November when I run more. At  
> that time
> I hope to run TR6 Flywheels, as well, and combine the order to  
> lower the cost.
>
> (Volume combined with commonality between the two flywheels will be  
> taken
> into consideration in the production costs)
>
> If you want to put your name on one of TR4/TR6 Flywheels to be run  
> late fall,
> let me know. I will Excel Spreadsheet your interest. Advance orders  
> will
> benefit from discount.
>
> THANKS!
>
> Joe A
>
>    </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Fri May  2 15:54:47 2008
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 17:54:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1963 Sebring Race Video
Message-ID: <002c01c8ac9f$2879fd40$6601a8c0@Elliott>

A TR friend in France just sent me this link about this DVD.  

The DVD has a guided tour of one of the cars number 38 in Kas Kastners workshop and explains about the wing extensions for the wider wheels and tyres and also catalogues the modifications made for the race as well as quite good albeit short coverage of the race itself. the disk is availabkle here http://www.motorfilms.com/videos.php?id=104
 
It is volume 11

Would Keith Files' TR4 be one of these ?

Don Elliott, Montreal


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Fri May  2 18:06:33 2008
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 00:06:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Forged spitfire 1500 pistons
Message-ID: <050320080006.27954.481BAC8900076C9B00006D3222155754740A9D07009B079F9C9F00@comcast.net>

Amici...

After the big explosion at St. Louis I'm looking for some forged pistons.  Who's got the hot setup now?  Pistons would be flat topped 11:1 compression ratio.  Anyone have any suggestions...

Aaron
#87 Spitfire 1500 
Southern Illinois Region SCCA


From dave at microworks.net  Sat May  3 12:43:06 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:43:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: 1975 Red TR6 For Sale
Message-ID: <20080503184314.PKJN7113.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

   A long time DCTRA member is selling his TR6.  Nice car.
   eBay item # is 150241682984

     Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:20:08 -0700
     From: Fran Wickenhauser <fwick at financing-equipment.com>
     Subject: 1975 Red TR6 For Sale
     Hi  Dave:  I am back in Phoenix about 1 -2  months during the year.
     I  have  a  home in Sun City Grand.  Our permanent home is still in
     Crested  Butte,  CO.  We are down here for the month of May.  While
     here,  I  have  decided  to  sell  my  Red 1975 TR6.  It is on eBay
     currently.   It  is  the  only  Red  TR6  with a checkerboard floor
     garage.   Please  broadcast  this  note to all members.  My contact
     information  is  below  and also in the Ebay ad.  Anyone wanting to
     see the car here in Phoenix can call me anytime.  Thanks.
     Fran Wickenhauser, President
     Midwest Leasing, Inc.
     37 Kubler Court
     P O Box 1214
     Crested Butte, CO 81224
     800-203-8920
     800-203-8921 Fax
     www.financing-equipment.com


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Sat May  3 18:52:23 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 17:52:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Hackett Motors TR4 race car info
Message-ID: <481D08C7.2070901@cyberspeedway.net>

Group,
     Does anybody have any info on the '64 TR4 Hackett Motors race car.
It was raced from '64-'67? Hackett motors was in Saugatuck, Ct. Jay Paul 
is a steward for us in Phoenix and we got to talking today at
the track about old races and cars and I mentioned the FOT. He said his
dad, Ed Paul crewed for David Hackett on the TR4 that Doug Given drove
in the NE Div and was div champion in '66. He said David Hackett also
had an aluminum bodied TR4?  Jay said his dad would like to hear what 
has become of the car and people involved. Any stories out there?

Thanks,
Greg Lund


From Guyots3 at wmconnect.com  Sat May  3 21:05:11 2008
From: Guyots3 at wmconnect.com (Guyots3 at wmconnect.com)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:05:11 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Message for Joe Alexander
Message-ID: <d06.2f1a2560.354e81e7@wmconnect.com>

Hi Joe,

Our wireless router seems to have fallen over!

For any communications re windage trays. please call me on my cell phone at
541-531-2633 PST, as well as sending an email as usual.

Thanks

Lion

presently on wife's PC, piggybacking of neighbour's unsecured but slow
wireless network!

sneaky huh?

L   </HTML>


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun May  4 10:54:32 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 16:54:32 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Paging Robert MacKenzie
Message-ID: <050420081654.10773.481DEA47000B3B4400002A152200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net>

Apologies to the FOT for the interruption:


Robert,

Please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Irv KOrey


From spreiss at verizon.net  Sat May  3 23:05:29 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 16:05:29 +1100
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
Message-ID: <001801c8ada4$79a8da50$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I noticed that there is a
drop of coolant that repeatedly collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.
Does this signal a head gasket problem? Compression in that and all cylinders
is in the 150 lb range. I do not want to pull the head at this point if it can
be safely avoided. Don't mind changing the oil again within a shorter than
normal interval, but I really want to drive the car this week. The main cap
bolts are all torqued to 80 ft/lbs as listed in the manual.
Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump pickup has torn
loose from the spot where it was soldered to the pickup tube. There is now a
hole in the screen about the size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of
these filters that they would be willing to send me right away for a
reasonable price?
Many thanks
Steve P.


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  4 14:57:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 13:57:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
In-Reply-To: <001801c8ada4$79a8da50$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I 
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly 
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump 
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to 
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the 
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these 
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for 
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May  4 18:07:16 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 20:07:16 EDT
Subject: [Fot] I - J  Crank Scrapers and Windage Trays.
Message-ID: <d10.260c6c88.354fa9b4@cs.com>

FOT,

There are (21) I - J Triumph Scraper &/or Windage Tray Sustems queued up for 
production for the FOT Group Purchase.

On the 9th of May, I - J  will establish a new price on the Scrapers.  
Running Changes for product improvement have increase the complexity and value of 
the assembly.  Price increase will be announced, shortly. I think it will Retail 
under $99.00, but more than $90.00  

Know also that the FOT Group 15% Discount goes away with our current order. 
So, if you are thinking about it, buy now and install later. And if you have 
other friends that are interested, send them my way.

Thanks everyone, and best regards,

Joe Alexander   </HTML>


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Mon May  5 09:52:52 2008
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:52:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] John Fitch - update
Message-ID: <000801c8aec8$142dfeb0$3c89fc10$@racer@comcast.net>

Hello All:

 

A while back there was an email to FOT about the quandary John Fitch finds
himself in by just trying to be a good citizen.  I have read other accounts
of his situation and that donations to help him offset the cost of his
environmental cleanup have been steadily coming in.  This moring I read the
following in a historical racing enthusiasts newsletter called "The Fabulous
Fifties" which I thought was worth mentioning to the group:

 

"We have heard about John Fitch's problem and cannot believe it!  A donation
in on the way, Ciao" - Stirling Moss, London.

 

Gary

1962 TR4

1969 TR6


From BillB at bnj.com  Mon May  5 13:11:07 2008
From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 12:11:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
References: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>

Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.

The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.

________________________________

From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems



> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Mon May  5 13:37:54 2008
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:37:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sump problems
In-Reply-To: <A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>
References: <20080504205728.SWGA20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<A567005023D9E14089115E231BE7B7E60291ADB8@exchange01.internal.bnj.net>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE4EAA31F@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I used to deal with a little seepage on the figure of 8's but I switched to
using blue Hylomar in place of Permatex and I haven't had an issue since. It's
expensive but they actually had some at Harbor Freight the last time I was
there.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 2:11 PM
To: Randall; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems

Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head
gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.

The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make
a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.

________________________________

From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems



> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.

Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me.  If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.

> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?

They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours.  However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think).  Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating.  Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.

Randall
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
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From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Mon May  5 17:26:05 2008
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 19:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stub axel and
Message-ID: <003001c8af07$64d03e20$6701a8c0@DFN4YV61>

Hi folks  I made an attempted today to change front rotors,but I could not
pull the hub I am using the up graded stub axel and aluminum hubs.  Has any
one had this issue and is the fix to use a puller.I still have end float and
have only worked on one side.  thanks   rob


From ablake2 at austin.rr.com  Tue May  6 20:16:20 2008
From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 21:16:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Looking for TR6 tranny
Message-ID: <000001c8afe8$57227a90$6401a8c0@blake1>

Group,
 
I am looking for a complete rebuildable TR6 non OD transmission for my
project.  Does anyone have one they are willing to sell?  Please contact
me off list.
 
Ablake2 at austin.rr.com
 
Thanks,
 
Greg  


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May  7 11:15:51 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 10:15:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold


From markvaden at gmail.com  Wed May  7 12:00:09 2008
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:00:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?

TIA,
Mark


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  7 12:52:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:52:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <124401c8b073$74d47f30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

IMO, burping a little after a hard run and sudden shutdown is normal.  There
is still a lot of heat stored in the cylinder head & block, but the water is
no longer circulating to carry the heat away.  So the residual heat causes a
little boiling in the head.

The real question IMO is why it didn't go into the overflow.  Sounds like it
may be blocked; or perhaps the upper lip of your radiator neck is damaged so
it doesn't seal to the cap.

Randall


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  7 12:53:40 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:53:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <612041.6544.qm@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had that happen once when I was having head gasket sealing problems (before Uncle Jack was building my engines.) Some of the combustion pressure must have leaked into the water passages.
Gary Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net; TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 7, 2008 1:00:09 PM
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping

Hi All,

Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?

TIA,
Mark
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as garygret at sbcglobal.net


From REK46 at aol.com  Wed May  7 13:00:56 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:00:56 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <c65.248fcc0e.35535668@aol.com>

He should also ck to see that the rad and thermostat are not above the 
head....or air steam pocket cud occur...may need expansion tank and bleeder above 
head level


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
family favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From rem9 at frontiernet.net  Wed May  7 13:05:54 2008
From: rem9 at frontiernet.net (Russ Moore)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8b075$60313940$2093abc0$@net>

Get a friend to help for the cost of a beer! Far cheaper than having paint
repairs to do

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rem9=frontiernet.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rem9=frontiernet.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chuck
Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rem9 at frontiernet.net


From henry at henryfrye.com  Wed May  7 14:15:54 2008
From: henry at henryfrye.com (Henry Frye)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B52E8650115BB4085979C721A085AD405FF71@server.Triumph.local>

I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
This is how I do it...

Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
proper torque. Reinstall headlights.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
> Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
> To: Friends; Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
> after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
> have done it several times, probably try different techniques
> each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 14:34:47 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 16:34:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <63DCE15B.7EA592E0.00159EE9@cs.com>

i locate the hood on the car.

then i raise it into the open position and secure with the prop rod.

it stays in place while i locate the hinge and start the capscrews.

i can take it off and put it on, by myself, and in a few minutes.

i would expect the tr6 to be the same.

i have been doing it this way since 1969.

joe a

>I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>This is how I do it...
>
>Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> To: Friends; Triumph
>> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>>
>> --
>> Chuck Arnold
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Wed May  7 15:50:50 2008
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (U K MOTORSPORTS)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:50:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>

Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension w/
a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
trouble than its worth...Chip


> [Original Message]
> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
> This is how I do it...
>
> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
> > To: Friends; Triumph
> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
> >
> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
> >
> > --
> > Chuck Arnold
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
7:46 AM


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Wed May  7 15:16:14 2008
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (Gasket Works USA)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 16:16:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <27911552.1034481210194974133.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.

I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket 
from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two 
seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush 
on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an 
appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin. 
Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and 
align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove 
the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from 
the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.

I did this for the race car not my street car.

M.N.Dunst

Gasket Works USA, LLC

gmt-8 Pacific time

626.358.1616 voice

626.628.3777 fax


From budscars at comcast.net  Wed May  7 15:32:36 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:32:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>

Hi gang...There's just something about being able to do things solo as we 
age...Maybe it's about not depending on anyone for help, because 'It Aint 
Always Available'...and the challenge is what this car stuff is greatly 
about!
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "U K MOTORSPORTS" <tr6racer21 at earthlink.net>
To: "Henry Frye" <henry at henryfrye.com>; "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


> Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
> not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
> suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
> brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension 
> w/
> a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
> trouble than its worth...Chip
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
>> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>> This is how I do it...
>>
>> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> > To: Friends; Triumph
>> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>> >
>> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chuck Arnold
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Fot mailing list
>> > Fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
> 7:46 AM
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 15:33:23 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 17:33:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <42B341E1.2A2D0FEE.00159EE9@cs.com>

i like that idea...

>What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.
>
>I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket 
>from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two 
>seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush 
>on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an 
>appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin. 
>Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and 
>align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove 
>the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from 
>the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.
>
>I did this for the race car not my street car.
>
>M.N.Dunst
>
>Gasket Works USA, LLC
>
>gmt-8 Pacific time
>
>626.358.1616 voice
>
>626.628.3777 fax
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From don at carterdesignassociates.com  Wed May  7 15:59:00 2008
From: don at carterdesignassociates.com (Don Carter)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:59:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>

I share your frustration. This goes much better with a friend's help. In
fact, without risk of scratching it is real scary.  So wait for a friend and
instruct him something like this:

1. Place at least two of the hood mounting bolts along the front fender
mounting channel near the front of the engine bay by the hinges. Also have
1/2 inch wrenches handy and within reach of this same area.
2. You and a FRIEND pick up the hood holding each of its sides. (If you
don't have a friend, find one.  If you can't find one, then sell your
Triumph without a hood installed.)
3. You take the passenger side, especially if your right handed.  Hoist the
hood onto each of your inside (the engine side) shoulders, whilst, (a
British word), facing toward the front of the car.
4. Tilt the hood so that the hinges mate as close as possible with the hood
mounting holes and install somewhat loosely two of the bolts through the
passenger side hinge holes.
5. Then go over and relieve your friend who is patiently holding his
driver's side up and who has helped by gently moving the hood whilst you
bolted the passenger side.
6. Install two bolts on the driver's side with a bit more tightness and
gently lower the hood and adjust by hand bumping the edges to align.  Raise
and tighten until adjustments and alignment is made and finish other bolt
installations.

The floating captured threaded plates are of course the problem, but this
method has worked for me for many installations.  Praying for more patience
might also help before you start.

Don Carter, AIA



Carter Design Associates
6213 Skyline Dr., Suite 100
Houston, Texas 77057
(713) 529-2288 Telephone
(713) 789-2330 Fax
don at carterdesignassociates.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

--
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as don at carterdesignassociates.com


From Billb at bnj.com  Wed May  7 16:08:19 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:08:19 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>
References: <000a01c8b08d$8eb36d20$59e8a8c0@donlaptop>
Message-ID: <1A04FEBA-3DBA-4EF7-B2EE-6517D7BA6AE1@bnj.com>

Isn't this an exposed pin hinge like the TR3/4? Can you drill the pin  
out and replace it with a cap screw and nylock?

On May 7, 2008, at 11:59 AM, Don Carter wrote:

> I share your frustration. This goes much better with a friend's  
> help. In
> fact, without risk of scratching it is real scary.  So wait for a  
> friend and
> instruct him something like this:
>
> 1. Place at least two of the hood mounting bolts along the front  
> fender
> mounting channel near the front of the engine bay by the hinges.  
> Also have
> 1/2 inch wrenches handy and within reach of this same area.
> 2. You and a FRIEND pick up the hood holding each of its sides. (If  
> you
> don't have a friend, find one.  If you can't find one, then sell your
> Triumph without a hood installed.)
> 3. You take the passenger side, especially if your right handed.   
> Hoist the
> hood onto each of your inside (the engine side) shoulders, whilst, (a
> British word), facing toward the front of the car.
> 4. Tilt the hood so that the hinges mate as close as possible with  
> the hood
> mounting holes and install somewhat loosely two of the bolts through  
> the
> passenger side hinge holes.
> 5. Then go over and relieve your friend who is patiently holding his
> driver's side up and who has helped by gently moving the hood whilst  
> you
> bolted the passenger side.
> 6. Install two bolts on the driver's side with a bit more tightness  
> and
> gently lower the hood and adjust by hand bumping the edges to  
> align.  Raise
> and tighten until adjustments and alignment is made and finish other  
> bolt
> installations.
>
> The floating captured threaded plates are of course the problem, but  
> this
> method has worked for me for many installations.  Praying for more  
> patience
> might also help before you start.
>
> Don Carter, AIA
>
>
>
> Carter Design Associates
> 6213 Skyline Dr., Suite 100
> Houston, Texas 77057
> (713) 529-2288 Telephone
> (713) 789-2330 Fax
> don at carterdesignassociates.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+don=carterdesignassociates.com at autox.team.net]  
> On Behalf
> Of Chuck Arnold
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:16 PM
> To: Friends; Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>
>
> Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after  
> engine
> replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several  
> times,
> probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with  
> all of
> them.
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as don at carterdesignassociates.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed May  7 16:23:40 2008
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:23:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net>
	<00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE572D0F3@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

The doing things solo part really sucks as we age. I used to sling those
trannies into place with hardly any pain, and mounting a bonnet was no
problem. Now I have to work up the courage. It helps to have a willing wife.
Try withholding sex to get her cooperation.

OK, promise to wash up before groping. Maybe that has a chance.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
RACER BUD
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 4:33 PM
To: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net; Henry Frye; Chuck Arnold
Cc: Friends of Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood

Hi gang...There's just something about being able to do things solo as we
age...Maybe it's about not depending on anyone for help, because 'It Aint
Always Available'...and the challenge is what this car stuff is greatly
about!
Racer Bud..Spitfire #21
----- Original Message -----
From: "U K MOTORSPORTS" <tr6racer21 at earthlink.net>
To: "Henry Frye" <henry at henryfrye.com>; "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood


> Henry this is a great idea, and might work on a race car. However it will
> not work on a TR6. There is the inner fender that is in the way. My
> suggestion would be to remove the grill and fan shroud and access the
> brackets in that fashion. You may be able to get a long 3/8ths extension
> w/
> a 1/2 inch socket up from the bottom but from experience this may be more
> trouble than its worth...Chip
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Henry Frye <henry at henryfrye.com>
>> To: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 5/7/2008 4:16:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>>
>> I am pretty sure a TR6 is quite similar to a TR4, so maybe this helps.
>> This is how I do it...
>>
>> Remove the headlights. Lay the hood in place on car. Reach in the
>> headlight holes to bolt up the brackets, a couple bolts per side. Open
>> hood, put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten them a little, but not so
>> much as the hood can't slide in the brackets. Close the hood, align as
>> needed, then tighten the bolts some more through the headlight holes so
>> it can't slide in the brackets. Open the hood, tighten the bolts to
>> proper torque. Reinstall headlights.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net
>> > [mailto:fot-bounces+henry=henryfrye.com at autox.team.net] On
>> > Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
>> > Sent: May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
>> > To: Friends; Triumph
>> > Subject: [Fot] Replacing TR6 hood
>> >
>> > Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood
>> > after engine replacement when done as a one person job.  I
>> > have done it several times, probably try different techniques
>> > each time, and get frustrated with all of them.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chuck Arnold
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Fot mailing list
>> > Fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as henry at henryfrye.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr6racer21 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008
> 7:46 AM
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rkramer at rdoequipment.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May  7 16:44:50 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 00:44:50 +0200
Subject: [Fot] This corner is "oioioioioi"
References: <380-22008537215050353@earthlink.net><00bc01c8b089$df410e90$0302a8c0@Bud>
	<CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5AE572D0F3@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c8b093$f69218f0$6602a8c0@HOME>

http://totgelacht.com/content/9010-die-kurve-des-grauens.html


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Wed May  7 16:44:55 2008
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 18:44:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Instuction manual
Message-ID: <482230E7.9080600@cfl.rr.com>

Any one have an instruction manual for a Spa fire suppression system 
they are willing to copy. I will of course pay your expenses to copy and 
send.
thxx,
Bob


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Wed May  7 16:57:38 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 18:57:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Replacing hood
Message-ID: <BLU127-W35E935D3308ABCB350F6B98CD10@phx.gbl>

Mordy Dunst wrote:

> What I have done is perhaps simpler.  No NUTS nor Bolts to adjust.
>
> I took the hood bracket and drilled out the pin holding the body braket
> from the hood bracket.  Once this was done I realligned the two
> seperated pieces with a 3/8" bolt and welding a 3/8 inch ID  steel  bush
> on either side of the brackets about 1/2" on either side.  I got an
> appropriately long 3/8 PIP pin and reassembled using the removable pin.
> Intially you need to place the hood and braket as you would normally and
> align.  But, this is done only this initial time.  When I want to remove
> the hood I just take out the PIP pin holding the two bracket halves from
> the from the open Head Lite opening.  All remains aligned.

This is what I did on my TR6.  It still takes 2 people to hold the hood,
but it takes 30-60 sec to remove/attach.  And the hood always stays aligned.

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Get Free (PRODUCT) RED  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed May  7 18:07:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 20:07:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>

Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a kit 
of hardware and adapter plates.

Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of 
candidates for the KIT.

Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser operations, 
a little die work...likely stainless steel

Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone 
from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in the 
racing stables, too.

(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)

Thanks,

Joe   </HTML>


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Wed May  7 19:49:50 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 21:49:50 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <bc8.2b80686c.3553b63e@aol.com>

I am in the auto salvage business. We do not specialize in any particular car 
but I love to buy Miata's. Everything sells off of these cars. I take some 
small parts like from the interior and get obscene prices on ebay. The seats I 
like to save and take to Carlisle that is coming up next week. Not only do the 
TR guys like them but the kit car guys go crazy for them. I get $100 and up 
per seat so if you find them any cheaper, consider it a deal.
 
My biggest problem is getting cars at reasonable prices to dismantle. The 
racing scene has exploded with literally hundreds showing up at events so 
everyone want's one. And fiberglass hardtops, forget it. They average $1,200 a piece.
 
Anyway, put me down as a yes! Can you send me any info that I can take with 
me this weekend. I have a set of seats I am taking. Last year a guy bought the 
pair for a Spit. I'll get to hear from him how he made out. He thought they 
were a little broad but took them anyway. CHA CHING.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May  7 20:28:39 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 21:28:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080508022831.39032187648@autox.team.net>

As someone mentioned, any overflow should go to the overflow 
tank.  The seal between the top of the rad cap and the outer flange 
is supposed to be an "infinite" pressure seal.  The spring and inner 
seal is where the 7 lbs or 21 lbs or whatever the cap is rated for 
applies.  It lets the water in between the inner seal and the outer 
seal to go to the overflow tank.  When it cools down it's supposed to 
suck water from the overflow tank back into the radiator.

As mentioned, two things will cause the water not to go to the overflow:
1. blocked line to the overflow
2. crappy seal between the radiator cap and the radiator

I've had issues in the past where after a 30 min session the overflow 
tank (1 - 2 qt size) was almost full and it wouldn't pull back into 
the radiator.  This was caused by a minor leak between the combustion 
chamber into the water jacket.  There was still enough pressure in 
the radiator that the water wouldn't pull back in.

A hard run at low speed will likely put more heat into the system 
than it handles well, and then shutting down the car would cause more 
heat soak where you may see some localized boiling and would 
certainly see the water expanding.

I have a little bleeder on the top of my thermostat housing to get 
the last little bit of air out of the block, but having a little air 
in the system would give it some room to expand too so I don't think 
that's the issue.

One other issue I'll mention is that the stock radiators need a cap 
with a longer than usual distance between the inner seal and top of 
the cap (the spring part needs to be longer).  I run an aftermarket 
radiator so it uses normal caps.

21 psi is certainly too high - you risk blowing the figure 8 seals 
with that.  I'd be nervous going much over 10 psi.

- Tony Drews

At 01:00 PM 5/7/2008, Mark Vaden wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The
>car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge
>of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I
>bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2
>runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too
>high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never
>ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested
>and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure?
>
>TIA,
>Mark
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May  7 20:53:21 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 21:53:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080508025310.79674187665@autox.team.net>

I came out of the grocery store last year and someone was inspecting 
the seats in my Miata (of course my top was DOWN, the proper 
position, making inspection easy).  He was looking to see if they'd 
fit in a spridget.

I LOVE the seats.  110,000 fairly hard miles (a trip without at least 
one sideways corner is a wasted trip) and they are holding up well.

While the car is the same length at the TR-4, it's quite a bit wider 
so I'm sure there's a bit of finagling to get them to fit in the TR-4 or TR-6.

- Tony

At 07:07 PM 5/7/2008, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a kit
>of hardware and adapter plates.
>
>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>candidates for the KIT.
>
>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser operations,
>a little die work...likely stainless steel
>
>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street 
>cars in the
>racing stables, too.
>
>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe   </HTML>
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Wed May  7 20:54:30 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 22:54:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing
Message-ID: <01d801c8b0b6$d69b2f50$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

I'm writing to solicit opinions on clothing FOT proposes to offer in
conjunction with the 2008 Watkins Glen Kastner Cup.  The clothing will be
embroidered with FOT logos, and there will be FOT printed tee shirts with
original Triumph-inspired artwork .  What I'd like you to do is take a look at
the website (link below) and shoot me an email indicating what items you would
be interested in buying.  If you think I have missed the mark entirely let me
know that too.  We will be offering everything at cost of production.  Costs
are on the website.

Here are the parameters:
  1.. We are offering a) several clothing choices with the embroidered logo,
and b) high quality tee shirts (short and long sleeve if some of you want
both) with a five color ink silk screen design by Greg Petrolati, featuring an
"all Triumph race " illustration on the back and the FOT logo with the Prince
of Parkness mace fist, flags, helmet, laurels etc on the front
  2.. the embroidered logo will not, repeat not, be the five color logo
described above that you have seen  printed on previous tee shirts.
Unfortunately, it is too complicated to embroider in a 3" area on clothing.
The embroidered logo will be as shown on the website (link, below).  I am
hopeful the proposed design will satisfiy most of you - if there is universal
revulsion to it, hey, I have no artistic ego that will suffer - the embroidery
could consist simply of the words without the graphic.
  3.. We need to get orders for about 100 embroidered items (not 100 of the
same shirt, but total hats, shirts, etc) to have the embroidery done
  4.. We need about ten orders for each individual item to include them as
clothing choices.
  5.. We are not taking orders now.  This is only to determine interest or
lack thereof.  If, for example, only two people respond to this and say they
will buy a baseball cap, we won't offer that as a choice when it's time to
order.
  6.. Based on your responses I'll come up with a short list and be back at
you taking orders in the near term
  7.. Tee shirts - we do not have the artwork ready for you to see yet, so I
am not asking for indications of interest at this time.  Greg created the FOT
logo, so you know the tee shirt art will be great!  We'll follow up on this
later when we can show you the great design!
  8.. We are going to do pre-orders only.   Only orders recieved by a deadline
(to be determined) in advance of Watkins Glen will be produced.  There will
not be any items (except perhaps x-large tee shirts) that will be available
for purchase if you do not pre-order.
  9.. Ted Shumacher will be orchestrating the mfg and delivery process, so
anything you order can be paid for by credit card and shipped to you or picked
up from him at the Glen.
  10.. Traditional FOT logo - for those of you that are a big fan of this, as
I am,  if there is sufficient interest, this can be produced as a sew-on
patch.  Apparently the weaving process can make a much more detailed design.
Cost $7-$10
Here's the link.  This was the best way I could come up with to show you what
items look like.  Sorry I am not proficient enough to set it up so you can
vote right on the site, but simply send me a return email with an X next to
the item indicating your interest, using the list below.  Everything will be
available in the usual range of sizes.  Keep in mind that it is often cool at
the Glen in September.

http://www.freewebs.com/sjanzen/

Baseball Cap                    ____
Long Sleeve Denim Shirt   ____
Long Sleeve Twill Shirt      ____
Columbia Jacket              ____
Windshirt                        ____
Sew-on Patch                 ____


From budscars at comcast.net  Wed May  7 21:43:39 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 20:43:39 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
	<20080508025310.79674187665@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b0bd$b4b83de0$0302a8c0@Bud>

Great seats..I drive a 1990 Miata
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?


>I came out of the grocery store last year and someone was inspecting
> the seats in my Miata (of course my top was DOWN, the proper
> position, making inspection easy).  He was looking to see if they'd
> fit in a spridget.
>
> I LOVE the seats.  110,000 fairly hard miles (a trip without at least
> one sideways corner is a wasted trip) and they are holding up well.
>
> While the car is the same length at the TR-4, it's quite a bit wider
> so I'm sure there's a bit of finagling to get them to fit in the TR-4 or 
> TR-6.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 07:07 PM 5/7/2008, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a 
>>kit
>>of hardware and adapter plates.
>>
>>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>>candidates for the KIT.
>>
>>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser 
>>operations,
>>a little die work...likely stainless steel
>>
>>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street
>>cars in the
>>racing stables, too.
>>
>>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Joe   </HTML>
>>_______________________________________________
>>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Fot mailing list
>>Fot at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 07:32:56 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:32:56 EDT
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
Message-ID: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>

Moldex is building a new crank for us and they have called with a question.  
They want to talk us into just single oil passage to the rod and main  
journals. I'm of the cross drilled opinion.
 
What have the rest of you done?
 
Time is of the essence. They are waiting for an answer and already 2 months  
late.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Thu May  8 08:44:18 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:44:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <BLU127-W4436226E00159C77ACE3E88CD00@phx.gbl>

Joe Alexander wrote:

> Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
kit
> of hardware and adapter plates.

Miata seats are a good option.  Another good option are seats
from C4 Corvettes.  These are the hot items in Panteras, which
seem to have even less room than a TR.  Probably a bit more
expensive than a Miata, but some models come with motors to adjust
position, etc.

I have a German copy of the seats used in competition 914s.
Ferociously expensive, uncomfortable in typical German tradition,
but look the part and have great street cred.

Shane Ingate in NM

PS Starting electrical, and then insulation and drywall going into
the garagemahal.  Pam looked at it and said "It's bigger than a
house".  Heh, heh.

_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
messenger_052008


From rikrock at aol.com  Thu May  8 09:14:43 2008
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 11:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>
References: <c50.2b88b5f4.35545b08@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA7F3560BC5677-11B8-17D2@webmail-me15.sysops.aol.com>

Dave didn't mention it, but I happen to know that it's a crank for a TR4 motor.? My thinking is that?a single oil hole for the main journals??is okay, but the rod journals?should be cross-drilled.

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: tony at tonydrews.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 2:32 pm
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling



Moldex is building a new crank for us and they have called with a question.  
They want to talk us into just single oil passage to the rod and main  
journals. I'm of the cross drilled opinion.
 
What have the rest of you done?
 
Time is of the essence. They are waiting for an answer and already 2 months  
late.
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as rikrock at aol.com


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Thu May  8 09:15:43 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 11:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen Clothing
Message-ID: <002101c8b11e$6264af40$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

I should correct my email of last night and say that the embroidery will be on
the left breast pocket area, not right!


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 09:49:42 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 11:49:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
Message-ID: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>

I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal  that 
carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to  
each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the rod  
journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set, what we 
are  refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.
 
Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two  on 
the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very  
small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right 
now  to look and confirm.
 
Am I making it clear now?




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
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From britbits at netzero.com  Thu May  8 12:48:42 2008
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 13:48:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>

Joe,

How does what you're doing compare with some of the installs being done?  

As an example here is a link to Paul Teglers page on making Miata seats fit
a Spitfire:

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/miataseats/index.html


Just curious.


Jim
Dallas

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
kit of hardware and adapter plates.

Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
candidates for the KIT.

Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser
operations, a little die work...likely stainless steel

Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in
the racing stables, too.

(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)

Thanks,

Joe   </HTML>
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net


From rikrock at aol.com  Thu May  8 13:03:12 2008
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 15:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
References: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>

Not exactly;-)

When I say "cross-drilled journal", I'm?talking about?the holes you can easily SEE when you look at the crank.? I don't know what to call the hole (passageway)?inside the crank that carries the oil from the main journal to the rod journal.

So,?my??question is... if you were having a TR4 crank custom built, how many holes that you can easily SEE in the main and rod jounals?ought there? be?? 

Thanks!

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: Rikrock at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling




I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal that carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the rod journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set, what we are refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.

?

Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two on the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right now to look and confirm.

?

Am I making it clear now?





Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Thu May  8 13:15:34 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 14:15:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>
References: <d68.2a8ef78b.35539e29@cs.com> <000b01c8b13c$24505e20$ce771342@jrg>
Message-ID: <200805081915.m48JFffW516965@ns3.geneseo.net>

Nice site. Good pictures and dimensions.

The kit we're preparing positions the seat in the TR4 and TR6 so that 
the seat clears the outside trim and also clears a Moss type harness 
end on the tunnel. The new kit bolts to the floor using all four 
stock holes in the floor, and bolts to the seats using the holes 
already in the Miata seat rails.

The only work necessary on the Miata seats is that the ends of the 
lower half of the seat adjuster rails must be bent out straight as if 
to lay flat on the floor, and a locator peg on the bottom of the 
Miata rails must be cut off. The bending can be done with a vise or 
large wrench and the locator pegs are a job for a hack saw or die 
grinder with cutoff wheel.

As nearly as I can measure it, the Miata cushions are one inch higher 
at the "sit bones" than the stock seats.

At 01:48 PM 5/8/2008, Jim wrote:
>Joe,
>
>How does what you're doing compare with some of the installs being done?
>
>As an example here is a link to Paul Teglers page on making Miata seats fit
>a Spitfire:
>
>http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/miataseats/index.html
>
>
>Just curious.
>
>
>Jim
>Dallas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
>[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>N197TR4 at cs.com
>Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 7:07 PM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
>Sean & I are helping Uncle Jack with a Miata seat Conversion Kit. It is a
>kit of hardware and adapter plates.
>
>Jack's design, is in the final stages, and I am compiling a list of
>candidates for the KIT.
>
>Sean & I are also reviewing it for manufacturing processes. Laser
>operations, a little die work...likely stainless steel
>
>Two Triumph lists have been contacted and we have about 27 names.  Anyone
>from the FoT interested? It just occurred to that there are street cars in
>the racing stables, too.
>
>(I wonder if the MGB guys have discovered this nifty conversion)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe   </HTML>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as vinttr4 at geneseo.net

uncle jack 


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu May  8 15:18:12 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:18:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling
In-Reply-To: <8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>
References: <d38.294ee4df.35547b16@aol.com>
	<8CA7F554C1B1015-156C-284@WEBMAIL-MC06.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <005201c8b151$06713950$9201a8c0@richardiipc>

I'm looking at the broken-off piece of my TR-4 crankshaft. It broke right
where it is supposed to, at the #3 throw.

The rear main journal has one hole about the size of a 5.5mm Allen wrench
angling in toward the throw. The #4 rod journal has a similar sized hole
running all the way across creating two oiling ports. There is also a
smaller (2mm Allen wrench) that goes half way through. It is on the outboard
side of the journal but apparently ends in the cross-drilled passageway,
thus creating a third, much smaller, oiling point.

When I backed out the Allen nut that appears to be an inspection port, there
is a batch of pasty grey stuff that looks like a bearing emulsion. 

Hope this helps.



Richard  L. Taylor, Jr.,  FAIA


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rikrock at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:03 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling

Not exactly;-)

When I say "cross-drilled journal", I'm?talking about?the holes you can
easily SEE when you look at the crank.? I don't know what to call the hole
(passageway)?inside the crank that carries the oil from the main journal to
the rod journal.

So,?my??question is... if you were having a TR4 crank custom built, how many
holes that you can easily SEE in the main and rod jounals?ought there? be?? 

Thanks!

Rich Rock


-----Original Message-----
From: DSPGTi at aol.com
To: Rikrock at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] fot crank cross drilling




I believe a stock TR4 crank has one hole drilled thru the crank journal that
carries the oil from the main bearing housings into the crank and passes to
each rod journal. The stock crank has one set of cross drill holes in the
rod journals to carry the oil out to the rod bearings plus a second set,
what we are refering to as "cross drilled" at 90 degrees of each other.

?

Moldex is recommending just single passages on each journal. We think two on
the rods and maybe the mains as well? Rich thinks a stock crank has a very
small set of holes in the mains but we don't have a crank in our hands right
now to look and confirm.

?

Am I making it clear now?





Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as tarch at bellsouth.net


From DSPGTi at aol.com  Thu May  8 16:02:05 2008
From: DSPGTi at aol.com (DSPGTi at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 18:02:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
Message-ID: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A  little 
more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I  
have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
 
Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May  8 16:10:18 2008
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:10:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
In-Reply-To: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?

I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes
me want to drive around wearing my helmet.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of DSPGTi at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A
little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300

Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family
favorites at AOL Food.
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From budscars at comcast.net  Thu May  8 17:10:34 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 16:10:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <00c301c8b160$b90d1c00$0302a8c0@Bud>

Very interesting....do any racecars use airbags?...Why or why not?..(I'm not 
speaking of the airbag Driving)
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
> anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes
> me want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A
> little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
> plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Thu May  8 18:09:01 2008
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 18:09:01 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <20080508.180901.3328.2.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

Airbag deployment timing is extremely critical. Too soon, useless. Too
late, probably do more damage then not having it. Filming an airbag
deployment at normal speed, it will probably not contain a single frame
of the fully inflated bag.
Frontal airbags in the steering wheel tend to break the neck of drivers
in full face helmets.
How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar?  
Just a few thoughts,
Bill

On Thu, 8 May 2008 17:10:18 -0500 "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
writes:
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has
> anyone considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
> 
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of 
> my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  
> Makes
> me want to drive around wearing my helmet.
> 
> Scott B.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
> 
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. 
> A
> little more expensive since they are newer and no where near as
> plentifull but I have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
> 
> Dave Y.
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists 
> on
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as wgrosenbach at juno.com


From britbits at netzero.com  Thu May  8 18:14:47 2008
From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 19:14:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <004201c8b169$b2fa7520$92701342@jrg>

Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
shift lever, aka 007?

I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from danger.


Cheers,

Jim
Dallas
'76 DM Spitfire
and too many other toys 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barr,
Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?

I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes me
want to drive around wearing my helmet.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DSPGTi at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?

Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A little
more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300

Dave Y.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
Fot mailing list
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From spreiss at verizon.net  Thu May  8 04:00:21 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 21:00:21 +1100
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts
Message-ID: <001401c8b0f2$5425d980$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

I'm trying to replace the motor mounts while I have the pan off. I have
unbolted both front mounts from the frame, as well as removed the nuts and
washers from the studs on top of the mount, but when I try to raise the engine
with the jack (and wood block) the whole front of the car wants to come up
with it. I thought the engine/trans would tip up the inch or so that would
appear enough to drop the mount out and I could do a quick change. I first
tried lifting with a cross block, both sides together. I have also shifted to
one side only. Could someone please tell me what I am missing?
Steve P.


From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:10:44 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 03:10:44 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <050920080310.19392.4823C0B40003B89800004BC02200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: William G Rosenbach <wgrosenbach at juno.com> 

> How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar? 

SCCA requires airbags to be de-activated in showroom classes.

Irv Korey


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:27:58 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 20:27:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <050920080310.19392.4823C0B40003B89800004BC02200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001701c8b184$adfdf400$0302a8c0@Bud>

Thanks friend..I hadn't even thought of that.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "William G Rosenbach" <wgrosenbach at juno.com>; <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: William G Rosenbach <wgrosenbach at juno.com> 
> 
>> How would tech feel about explosives in your racecar? 
> 
> SCCA requires airbags to be de-activated in showroom classes.
> 
> Irv Korey
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> 
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu May  8 21:36:29 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 20:36:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74B8F01E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<004201c8b169$b2fa7520$92701342@jrg>
Message-ID: <00d101c8b185$de19ab10$3a16c548@RW>

Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing, 
not selling shoes at K Mart.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com>
To: "'Barr, Scott'" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
> shift lever, aka 007?
>
> I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
> traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from 
> danger.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire
> and too many other toys
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Barr,
> Scott
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
>
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
> considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes 
> me
> want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A 
> little
> more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
> have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 


From dave at microworks.net  Thu May  8 22:09:35 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 21:09:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Cool Videos
Message-ID: <20080509040958.QIKY10668.fed1rmmtao107.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>

http://www.itv-f1.com/VideoWorldwide.aspx

ITV (the F! broadcaster in Britain) has some cool videos on their site.

Martin Brundle and Martin Blundell drive some old F1 machinery round 
Silverstone like Jim Clark's Lotus 49 and a 250F.  Very cool

Love the video of him throwing the 250F around the track on three wheels


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Fri May  9 05:42:13 2008
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 06:42:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74BA3AB8@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

<<Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing>>

I was talking about the car I drive on the street.  We were talking about Miata seats, which I doubt people are putting in their race cars, either.
 
Frankly, I feel safer on the track than I do driving around on the street among the meandering behemoths, preoccupied with chatting with their kids, dialing their phones and fiddling with their navigation systems.



----- Original Message -----
From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net <fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net>
To: britbits at netzero.com <britbits at netzero.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu May 08 22:36:29 2008
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

Air bags? What the hell are you thinking ? If you are racing you are racing, 
not selling shoes at K Mart.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim" <britbits at netzero.com>
To: "'Barr, Scott'" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??


> Uh, Scott.. how are you planning to trigger the airbag(s)?  Button on the
> shift lever, aka 007?
>
> I understand the concern, I drive an original Mini Cooper (997cc) in daily
> traffic in Dallas.  55hp on it's BEST day.  Forget bolting away from 
> danger.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> Dallas
> '76 DM Spitfire
> and too many other toys
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+britbits=netzero.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Barr,
> Scott
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:10 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
>
> As long as we're on the topic of using these more modern seats, has anyone
> considered using a seat with a side-impact airbag/curtain?
>
> I frequently wonder about additional protection when I look out of my
> drivers window and see nothing but massive SUV bumper next to me.  Makes 
> me
> want to drive around wearing my helmet.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+scott.barr=mccarty-law.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> DSPGTi at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 5:02 PM
> To: hottr6 at hotmail.com; N197TR4 at cs.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs FOT Interest?
>
> Another seat that looks pretty good is out of a Subaru, WRX or STI. A 
> little
> more expensive since they are newer and no where near as plentifull but I
> have seen them on ebay. I have a set for $300
>
> Dave Y.
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
> family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 
_______________________________________________
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  9 07:58:11 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 06:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??
Message-ID: <144784.19989.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Amen to that brother! The folks next to you on the racetrack were vetted by
instructors at some point before they got next to you so you can (usually)
expect at least some situational awareness. Even the Spec Miatas don't
tailgate as closely as Chicago traffic.
Plus there are no Hummers.
Gary
Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: "Barr, Scott"
<sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: kaskas at cox.net; britbits at netzero.com
Cc:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2008 6:42:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Miata Seat Conversion - airbags??

<<Air bags? What the hell are you thinking
? If you are racing you are racing>>

I was talking about the car I drive on
the street.  We were talking about Miata seats, which I doubt people are
putting in their race cars, either.

Frankly, I feel safer on the track than I
do driving around on the street among the meandering behemoths, preoccupied
with chatting with their kids, dialing their phones and fiddling with their
navigation systems.


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  9 08:14:35 2008
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 07:14:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts
Message-ID: <678006.7493.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On my TR4 the bell housing is so close to the firewall that the back of the trans has to drop before the engine can go up. Check for the top of the bell housing hitting the tunnel. If the engine won't even rock the inch to free one side's mount, you may need to remove the rear trans mount.
Also if sitting on the tires, lifting up a ~600# lump of iron unloads the suspension so much the car comes up inches from that alone.
Hope this helps.
Gary Schneider



----- Original Message ----
From: Steven Preiss <spreiss at verizon.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2008 5:00:21 AM
Subject: [Fot] motor mounts

I'm trying to replace the motor mounts while I have the pan off. I have
unbolted both front mounts from the frame, as well as removed the nuts and
washers from the studs on top of the mount, but when I try to raise the engine
with the jack (and wood block) the whole front of the car wants to come up
with it. I thought the engine/trans would tip up the inch or so that would
appear enough to drop the mount out and I could do a quick change. I first
tried lifting with a cross block, both sides together. I have also shifted to
one side only. Could someone please tell me what I am missing?
Steve P.
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

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From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Fri May  9 09:37:26 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 08:37:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs   FOT Interest?
In-Reply-To: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
References: <c3a.341df529.3554d25d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48246FB6.8050703@cyberspeedway.net>

     Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street 
seats have plenty of "road holding weight".

Greg Lund


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri May  9 11:40:00 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 13:40:00 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Triumph      Scrapers & Windage Trays
Message-ID: <be4.2f32b8b7.3555e670@cs.com>

Purchase Group:

Nearly 30 systems were placed in order with I - J  this morning and accepted. 

The Group Savings was about $900.

The Flate Rate for Shipping, Insurance, etc is $15.50 for the scrapers and 
$24.50 for the scraper and/or windage tray.

Lead Time from acceptance of order is about (4) Weeks. If there is a 
'hardship' order, please let me know, and I will see what I can do. Mark your 
calendars at about the 10th of June.

At the acceptance of the order, the charges for this order went to my 
Alexander Racing Visa Card.

I will Invoice each of you by mail with a hard copy. Due Immediately. I'll 
likely send these out on Monday.

Questions about installation, and such, should come to me.

Thank you very much....Joe A

   </HTML>


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May  9 13:59:17 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 15:59:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Commercial  message - Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4824AD15.9070809@bright.net>

Hello list. Just a follow-up to our previous announcement about Import 
Carlisle.  I will be there Thursday afternoon through about 4 pm 
Saturday, spaces D80 & 81. If there is something you want me to bring 
along, please let me know. Packing will take place Wednesday so we need 
any orders as soon as we can. Will have usual stock of stainless steel 
braid brake lines, gear reduction starters, springs and other suspension 
components, etc. Also some used engines, including Rover 3.9 short 
blocks, gearboxes and other "stuff". Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Fri May  9 16:10:20 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 17:10:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
Message-ID: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

Hi Gang,

 

In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.

 

I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?

 

I am starting to get things together to build another engine.

 

Mike


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Fri May  9 16:42:54 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 18:42:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs
Message-ID: <BLU127-W5448459576FDBDA1AA381C8CD30@phx.gbl>

Greg Lund wrote:

> Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street
> seats have plenty of "road holding weight".

I tried fitting Corbeau Clubmans before going with the 914 seats.
I found that the shoulder "ears" (or whatever you call those
things that keep your upper body in place) fouled with the B post.
The only way around it was to move the seat inwards towards the
driveshaft tunnel (which increases the offset to the pedals) or
bending the "ear" to provide clearance.  I did not want to own
the seats, so I did not do the bendy-thing.

There is zero chance of fitting Corbeau Clubmans (I tried the "narrow"
style - there is a larger version for those with larger posteriors)
in both driver and passenger locations, again because of interference
between the "ears".

Kirkey aluminum seats fit well, but are lousy for those 500-mile days.

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob
ile_052008


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri May  9 19:10:24 2008
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 19:10:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil thrower
Message-ID: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>

Question: when the oil thrower is in it's final position is it supposed to
be engaged with a woodruff key

or should it float on the crank ? Mine seems to want to reside between the
two woodruff keys.

Thanks for the help,

Jim G


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May  9 19:35:45 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 20:35:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 oil thrower
In-Reply-To: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>
References: <20080510010802.0F533187677@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080510013618.21E75187677@autox.team.net>

It goes between the keys.  The slot is so you can get it over the 
outer key to its' "home" position.

- Tony

At 08:10 PM 5/9/2008, Jim Gray wrote:
>Question: when the oil thrower is in it's final position is it supposed to
>be engaged with a woodruff key
>
>or should it float on the crank ? Mine seems to want to reside between the
>two woodruff keys.
>
>Thanks for the help,
>
>Jim G
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Sat May 10 08:52:18 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 10:52:18 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Radiator burping
Message-ID: <bda.29833c57.355710a2@aol.com>

A few years ago, I had my machinist redo the head on my engine.  I had used
this head for a number of seasons.  After he installed some nice looking skinny
stainless steel seats, reworked the valves, etc., he gently skimmed the face
to clean it up.  This last operation exposed some very faint hairline cracks
where a piston had come up and smacked the head.

While I was using this head, I was getting all sorts of burping to the catch
tank after coming in off of the track.  The fluid would always suck back out
of the catch tank as the engine cooled.  As a result, I was never suspicious of
the cracks, though I did seem to run hotter than normal.

With the present engine head, the coolant remains cooler and rarely goes to
the catch tank.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new
twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May 10 10:37:15 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:37:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

> Hi Gang,
>
>
>
> In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
> Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.
>
>
>
> I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
> pistons or do you know a good source?
>
>
>
> I am starting to get things together to build another engine.
>
>
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold


From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Sat May 10 13:40:04 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 14:40:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
	<8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

Thanks Chuck,

It sounds like you have had some trials also.

 

It appears that the locknut on the rocker worked loose. The tappet and
pushrod rotate in the direction that will tighten the valve adjuster which
will close up the tolerance. Then all hell breaks loose, valve head hits
piston, breaking off head then the head floats around in top of cylinder,
wreaking all sorts of havoc.

 

I wonder if I could mix them with my Arias if the weight and pit to deck
height is the same.

That is something to think about.

 

Mike

 

 

  

 

  _____  

From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Mike Munson
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

 

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi Gang,



In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.



I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?



I am starting to get things together to build another engine.



Mike
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




-- 
Chuck Arnold


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Sun May 11 09:21:35 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:21:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
References: <001d01c8b221$791567d0$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2><8cbd782d0805100937q14697979yf360eee03a7255af@mail.gmail.com>
	<000901c8b2d5$a5234770$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>
Message-ID: <001e01c8b37a$b39975e0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>

In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods (TR-4)
floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve open so it
blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and straightened
it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer. 

Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the trailer and
drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no funny noises
and typical power.

If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is just fine. 

Any foreboding warnings out there?

Richard  


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+tarch=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Munson
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 3:40 PM
To: 'Chuck Arnold'
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

Thanks Chuck,

It sounds like you have had some trials also.

 

It appears that the locknut on the rocker worked loose. The tappet and
pushrod rotate in the direction that will tighten the valve adjuster which
will close up the tolerance. Then all hell breaks loose, valve head hits
piston, breaking off head then the head floats around in top of cylinder,
wreaking all sorts of havoc.

 

I wonder if I could mix them with my Arias if the weight and pit to deck
height is the same.

That is something to think about.

 

Mike

 

 

  

 

  _____  

From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Mike Munson
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed

 

Wow, really sorry to hear of the disaster!  Any idea how the valve was
"dropped"?

I think I have 4 [and for sure have two] .04 over JE forged pistons -- not
sure if you could find others to match.  I sent them a stock piston a few
years ago and they made a set for me.  Burned up a couple due to no oil flow
at break in and had to order a minimum of 4 more.

Chuck

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Mike Munson <fasttrs at mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi Gang,



In a race at Indy last weekend I dropped a valve and destroyed one of my
Arias forged pistons along with the cam, head and block.



I know this is a long shot but do any of you out there have any forged
pistons or do you know a good source?



I am starting to get things together to build another engine.



Mike
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




-- 
Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as tarch at bellsouth.net


From BillDentin at aol.com  Sun May 11 11:38:42 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 13:38:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
Message-ID: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/11/2008 10:23:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tarch at bellsouth.net writes:


> In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods (TR-4)
> floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve open so it
> blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and straightened
> it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer. 
> 
> Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the trailer and
> drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no funny noises
> and typical power.
> 
> If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is just fine. 
> 
> Any foreboding warnings out there?
> 

Richard...

Unbelievable!  

Do you mind telling me what church do you go to?  

I may want to change.

Bill Dentinger



**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From SpiwakD at aol.com  Sun May 11 15:00:21 2008
From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:00:21 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
Message-ID: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>

I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to  
put the bafflles and what size flow holes?



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun May 11 15:40:55 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 21:40:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
In-Reply-To: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>
References: <c2d.342e7a4b.3558b865@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1520299244-1210542127-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-156840865-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I recently looked into this for my tr3.  Cambridge motorsport has an interesting one on their website.  It works with their alum sump.  L-brackets needed to be made to adapt it to the old factory alum sump (which I use.)
Kevin from I-J made me a baffle to go along with my scraper-windage tray setup. Which is soon to arrive.  It is only one baffle which works for fore-aft movement.  The cambridge unit looks like more of a grid.  My car ran for years trouble-free with nothing in the sump but oil.  I can send pics if you want of kevin johnson's new parts.  I bet he can make you whatever you want but it could take a while as he's super busy.

Steve b
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: SpiwakD at aol.com

Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:00:21 
To:fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info


I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to  
put the bafflles and what size flow holes?



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
_______________________________________________
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Fot mailing list
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From spreiss at verizon.net  Sun May 11 02:06:12 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 19:06:12 +1100
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
Message-ID: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know that
the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to bend.
In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod. Seems
like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided it!
Steve P.


From spreiss at verizon.net  Sun May 11 06:02:16 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
Message-ID: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
(with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the crank?
If so, any tips or cautions?
Steve P.


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Sun May 11 22:30:27 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 21:30:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [Fwd: Re:  Miata Seat Conversion for Triumphs]
Message-ID: <4827C7E3.4010309@cyberspeedway.net>

Shane,
     I attached the photos of the the Clubman seats installed in my 6. I
think the seats you tried must be a different model from mine or Corbeau
has changed them. I did offset them to the center of the car as much as
possible but moving the polar moment closer to the center of the car is
   always good.

Greg Lund

Shane Ingate wrote:
> Greg Lund wrote:
>  
>> Corbeau Clubman seats fit easily and weigh about 18 lbs. Street 
>> seats have plenty of "road holding weight".
> 
> I tried fitting Corbeau Clubmans before going with the 914 seats.
> I found that the shoulder "ears" (or whatever you call those 
> things that keep your upper body in place) fouled with the B post.
> The only way around it was to move the seat inwards towards the 
> driveshaft tunnel (which increases the offset to the pedals) or 
> bending the "ear" to provide clearance.  I did not want to own  
> the seats, so I did not do the bendy-thing.
> 
> There is zero chance of fitting Corbeau Clubmans (I tried the "narrow"
> style - there is a larger version for those with larger posteriors)
> in both driver and passenger locations, again because of interference 
> between the "ears".
> 
> Kirkey aluminum seats fit well, but are lousy for those 500-mile days.
> 
> Shane Ingate in NM
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
> http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mobile_052008


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 08:15:21 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 10:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Corbeau Clubman seats
In-Reply-To: <4827C577.3030707@cyberspeedway.net>
References: <BLU127-W5448459576FDBDA1AA381C8CD30@phx.gbl>
	<4827C577.3030707@cyberspeedway.net>
Message-ID: <BLU127-W39BBBB9ADD5BD7514DB0658CCC0@phx.gbl>

Amici,

Last week I wrote of the impossibility of fitting Corbeau Clubmans in my
TR.  I made a mistake; I was referring to Corbeau Forza seats that are
quite a deal wider than the Clubman.  The Clubmans do fit and look quite
good in a TR.

My apologies.  I call it a "senior moment".

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
1.
http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Mon May 12 09:44:15 2008
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MDunst/Gasket Works)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:44:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
Message-ID: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>

Group'

David Cizmas would like to participate in the FOT.   His bio is below.  Can
someone second this fellow please.

M




From: david cizmas
To: MDunst/Gasket Works
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Membership


      MDunst,
       I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car.  I
purchased the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I plan
to get it on the track this year.  Over the past few years I have been racing
VW Golfs in ITB and GP at Waterford Hills Road Racing course in MI.  Also, I
own a 1975 TR6 for my summer leisure driving.


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 10:05:56 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:05:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
In-Reply-To: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>
References: <002e01c8b447$08c0f440$1502a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W47BE966A498ED74A32AE09BACC0@phx.gbl>

Second. We can always use more TR6's to try and balance things out.

Marty



> Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:44:15 -0700> From: gasket.works at verizon.net> To:
fot at autox.team.net> Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request> > Group'> > David
Cizmas would like to participate in the FOT. His bio is below. Can> someone
second this fellow please.> > M> > > > > From: david cizmas> To: MDunst/Gasket
Works> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:42 PM> Subject: Re: Membership> > >
MDunst,> I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car. I>
purchased the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I
plan> to get it on the track this year. Over the past few years I have been
racing> VW Golfs in ITB and GP at Waterford Hills Road Racing course in MI.
Also, I> own a 1975 TR6 for my summer leisure driving.>
_______________________________________________>
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Fot mailing list> Fot at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot> > You are subscribed as
trmarty at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
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kydrive_052008


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 10:15:15 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:15:15 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Membership request
Message-ID: <c37.2dd1e931.3559c713@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/12/08 7:43:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gasket.works at verizon.net writes:

<< I have a 1972? ex-EP TR6 that I am converting to a vintage car.  I  purchase
d the (wrecked) car from Dave Wingett a couple of years ago and I plan  to get 
it on the track this year >>

I will second Dave Cizmas.  Dave Wingett's TR-6 traveled very rapidly at
Nelson Ledges a few years ago.  At that time, he told me that he had too much
over-steer.  Maybe that is what caused him to crash it.  
**************
Wondering
what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 12 10:58:55 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 09:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 forged pistons needed
In-Reply-To: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>
References: <cee.3350f675.35588922@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AD5FAA5-4954-49B2-87BE-6C31F3336BD3@bnj.com>

That's one of those questions you ask when you already know the answer  
but don't like it.

On May 11, 2008, at 10:38 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 05/11/2008 10:23:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tarch at bellsouth.net writes:
>
>
>> In Sunday's race last weekend at Road Atlanta one of my push rods  
>> (TR-4)
>> floated off to the side of its rocker and held the exhaust valve  
>> open so it
>> blew hot stuff out through the SU. I pulled the push rod up and  
>> straightened
>> it out on the only flat surface around, the tongue of my trailer.
>>
>> Put it back together and the engine ran fine. So I hooked up the  
>> trailer and
>> drove back home (70 miles)....oil pressure and temp normal; no  
>> funny noises
>> and typical power.
>>
>> If the compression checks normal, I plan to assume everything is  
>> just fine.
>>
>> Any foreboding warnings out there?
>>
>
> Richard...
>
> Unbelievable!
>
> Do you mind telling me what church do you go to?
>
> I may want to change.
>
> Bill Dentinger
>
>
>
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 16:11:14 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:11:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
Message-ID: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/11/08 2:00:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SpiwakD at aol.com
writes:

<< I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows where to   
 put the baffles and what size flow holes? >>

My baffled oil pan is not very fancy.  I added two baffles at two different
levels in the front of a stock oil pan, based on Greg Solow's recommendations.
I anchored them from the windage plate using 1/4" all-thread rods.

I believe that most of my recent reliability has come from the following:

-Using Greg's flat faced oil pump pickup, with the screen on the bottom.
(Pain pulling off the oil pan from underneath the car, but doable.)
-Installing his oil cooler sandwich, and placing the oil cooler in front of
the radiator.
-Connecting the accusump to the center oil galley port.

I know.  There are all sorts of fancy baffled oil sumps out there with trap
doors (which can stick).
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.

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From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Mon May 12 16:33:14 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:33:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
Message-ID: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/11/08 8:05:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
spreiss at verizon.net writes:

<< Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine  (
with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the crank?  If
 so, any tips or cautions?  Steve P. >>

It is very easy to change out thrust washers from under the car.  Half of
both thrust washers come out when removing the center main bearing cap.  You ca
n
normally rotate the new upper half of the thrust washer into the grove while
the old thrust washer rotates out.

I would be surprised if you get both of the 0.005" thrust washers in.  I have
used one oversize thrust washer and one stock size thrust washer to reduce
end play.  At one time, I believe that you could buy 0.003" and 0.004" size
thrust washers.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists
on family favorites at AOL Food.

(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 12 17:20:21 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:20:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Baffled oil pan info
In-Reply-To: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>
References: <cdf.2ce1220b.355a1a82@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81D64E26-651F-40FC-A637-33F290E7E4C8@bnj.com>

Of the three I suspect the accusump is the biggest deal. I've done the  
same thing--connected my accusump to the oil galley, and fundamentally  
never have less than 40 or so pounds pressure there. Bound to be  
better than the occasional zero.

On May 12, 2008, at 3:11 PM, WEmery7451 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/11/08 2:00:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SpiwakD at aol.com
> writes:
>
> << I want a baffled oil pan for my TR3. Who makes them or who knows  
> where to
> put the baffles and what size flow holes? >>
>
> My baffled oil pan is not very fancy.  I added two baffles at two  
> different
> levels in the front of a stock oil pan, based on Greg Solow's  
> recommendations.
> I anchored them from the windage plate using 1/4" all-thread rods.
>
> I believe that most of my recent reliability has come from the  
> following:
>
> -Using Greg's flat faced oil pump pickup, with the screen on the  
> bottom.
> (Pain pulling off the oil pan from underneath the car, but doable.)
> -Installing his oil cooler sandwich, and placing the oil cooler in  
> front of
> the radiator.
> -Connecting the accusump to the center oil galley port.
>
> I know.  There are all sorts of fancy baffled oil sumps out there  
> with trap
> doors (which can stick).
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From spreiss at verizon.net  Mon May 12 03:00:00 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:00:00 +1100
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
References: <2ABDAB0C.0EBC793D.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<005901c8b444$e5153fd0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>
Message-ID: <006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Ted Schumaker of TSI Automotive also sells them (any length) and at a very
reasonable price.
S.P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; "'"Steven Preiss"'" <spreiss at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod


>
>
> What is the source for the recommended light-weight, high strength, hot
dog
> pushrod?
>
> RT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:15 PM
> To: "Steven Preiss"; "Richard Taylor"
> Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod
>
> Richard,
>
> I think we are assuming that you will change the bent push rod and check
the
> rest, as Steve suggests.
>
> Joe
>
> >I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
> >possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know
> that
> >the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to
> bend.
> >In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
> >adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
> >Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod.
Seems
> >like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided
> it!
> >Steve P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Fot mailing list
> >Fot at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 12 19:50:00 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:50:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [Thicko] Mosport VARAC Festival
In-Reply-To: <8E24061A09DC35498F658A7E25FA9E8707FEF498@dunn.pembroke.loc al>
References: <8E24061A09DC35498F658A7E25FA9E8707FEF498@dunn.pembroke.local>
Message-ID: <200805130150.m4D1o6J2382390@ns3.geneseo.net>

Keith Files is coming over from the UK to run this event in his 
ex-Sebring TR4, supported by Joe Alexander. Tony Drews will be 
running his Red Rocket TR4 supported by Jack Drews unless Jack gets 
his act together along with getting his car together to race against 
those two worthies.

At 07:34 PM 5/12/2008, Daniel Thompson wrote:
>Great event! Who is coming up this year?
>
>www.varac.ca
>
>
>
>Daniel Thompson
>GBC Asset Management Inc.
>514-848-0716
>_______________________________________________

uncle jack 


From billsohl at optonline.net  Mon May 12 20:18:15 2008
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:18:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
Message-ID: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>

I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest issue, they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards for editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.

Congratulations Mike.


Bill Sohl


From spreiss at verizon.net  Mon May 12 05:36:40 2008
From: spreiss at verizon.net (Steven Preiss)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:36:40 +1100
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>

Thanks, and thanks to all who have responded.
All that's left is to find out the stock thickness, and to measure what's in
there now to determine what thickness to order. Anyone know the stock
thickness? (Currently the endplay measures .012" using a feeler guage.)
S.P.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Fred & Mary Hodgson
  To: Steven Preiss
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [Fot] thrust washer replacement


  Steve-

  It can be done in-car without any great tribulation.  Drop the center main
cap & push the upper halves around one at a time(one out, one in, repeat).  Be
sure to check your end float with a dial indicator.  You may have to mix &
match standard & oversize to get the desired clearance.  If that turns out to
be the case, always put the heavier thrust washer to the rear as that's the
one that gets the most loading from stepping on the clutch.

  Fred Hodgson





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

  > Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
  > From: spreiss at verizon.net
  > To: fot at autox.team.net
  > Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
  >
  > Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
  > (with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
crank?
  > If so, any tips or cautions?
  > Steve P.
  > _______________________________________________
  > http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  >
  > You are subscribed as stlnyc at msn.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 12 23:12:45 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:12:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
In-Reply-To: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <00b601c8b33d$e1794fe0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <390A74188789494A85E7E4699A4791A8@Mobil>

I would suppose that a stock push rod bends at too high load.
Maybe there was an over reving incident during race or testing that 
dislocated the ball joint, caused by not enough spring load for this high 
revolution. The next lift of the cam blocked the sping and bended the rod.

Hope this helps!

Cheers
Chris 


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 12 23:30:43 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:30:43 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter
In-Reply-To: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27><BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
	<001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <F45A748729C44EC0971A03953A0327AF@Mobil>

After I had some races I found out that the stock rev counter is too 
unprecise and does tend to wave on bumps.

I implanted a electronic device to the stock housing and printed a new scale 
on a CD lable sticker kit and fit this on the scale of the stock rev 
counter.

As electronic device I used a Porsche 924 rev counter. It has a 100mm scale 
and can handle the long Triumph pointer with ease.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Chris 


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue May 13 00:04:00 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:04:00 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27><BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl><001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<F45A748729C44EC0971A03953A0327AF@Mobil>
Message-ID: <007301c8b4bf$23751cd0$3a16c548@RW>

I've seen your label for the rev counter, and it is great looking
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Revcounter


> After I had some races I found out that the stock rev counter is too
> unprecise and does tend to wave on bumps.
>
> I implanted a electronic device to the stock housing and printed a new 
> scale
> on a CD lable sticker kit and fit this on the scale of the stock rev
> counter.
>
> As electronic device I used a Porsche 924 rev counter. It has a 100mm 
> scale
> and can handle the long Triumph pointer with ease.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Tue May 13 07:15:23 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:15:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] bent pushrod
In-Reply-To: <006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <2ABDAB0C.0EBC793D.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<005901c8b444$e5153fd0$6401a8c0@richardiipc>
	<006801c8b40e$8f9cd120$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <001501c8b4fb$67bf9960$6401a8c0@richardiipc>

Now I'm wondering if my pushrod length could be the culprit for it jumping
out of the rocker socket. What's the drill for determining the proper
length?

RT


Subject: Re: [Fot] bent pushrod

Ted Schumaker of TSI Automotive also sells them (any length) and at a very
reasonable price.
S.P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; "'"Steven Preiss"'" <spreiss at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod


>
>
> What is the source for the recommended light-weight, high strength, hot
dog
> pushrod?
>
> RT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:15 PM
> To: "Steven Preiss"; "Richard Taylor"
> Subject: RE: [Fot] bent pushrod
>
> Richard,
>
> I think we are assuming that you will change the bent push rod and check
the
> rest, as Steve suggests.
>
> Joe
>
> >I would try to determine why the pushrod wandered off the rocker. One
> >possibility is that it became fatigued and bent during the race. I know
> that
> >the earlier narrow ones were upgraded in diameter because they tended to
> bend.
> >In that case I would replace them all with new ss ones. Or perhaps it was
> >adjusted too loose and wandered (or tight, and bent).
> >Either way, I would not think it wise to race on a once bent pushrod.
Seems
> >like that would be asking for disaster after having miraculously avoided
> it!
> >Steve P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Fot mailing list
> >Fot at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Tue May 13 07:34:45 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:34:45 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
Message-ID: <c42.31098020.355af2f5@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/12/2008 9:33:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
billsohl at optonline.net writes:


> I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest 
> issue, they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These 
> awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club 
> publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards for 
> editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the 
> Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.
> 
> Congratulations Mike.
> 

AMEN to that, and no surprise, I might add.

Bill Dentinger



**************
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favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From igofaster at charter.net  Tue May 13 09:17:14 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 8:17:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] QUANTUM MECHANICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12249.1210685642.1200.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080513111714.GZFB0.727613.root@fepweb13>

Just a note to share about John Esposito @ Quantum Mechanics. I called last friday and spoke to John about my transmission. We have a CVAR event at Eagles Canyon this weekend... I really needed to get my transmission back. John informed me that he had not gotten on it sooner, and per my previous discussions, he was going to warranty the gearbox and send it back, no charge.
I wasn't comfortable with that and insisted I send him SOMETHING for doing the right thing.
Once again, John OVERNIGHTED my tranny and it's setting on my counter here at work.
Can't say enough about a guy in this day and age, that went beyond expectations, and without a doubt, did the right thing!

Now... stabbing the tranny back into the GT6 tonight, hoping for the best... I sure would like to be racin' this weekend.... 
to FoT members going to ECR this weekend, I'm going up thursday afternoon. I don't think Bob Kramer is coming with the TR4...   anybody else?
Bobby Whitehead
#54 YELLOW CVAR TRIUMPH GT6+


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 13 10:19:55 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 16:19:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <1900855701-1210695666-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2597493-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have a tank full of race gas.  The gas is now 6 mos. old.  My next event isn't foe 2 or 3 months.  May I give this stuff to a friend with a very hot street car, a camaro with a 502 crate V8? Or for that matter any street car with no cat??
Could I leave it in and race with old gas?

Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From WEmery7451 at aol.com  Tue May 13 12:26:57 2008
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:26:57 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <c07.360a0692.355b3771@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/13/08 9:21:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
colordog.1 at earthlink.net writes:

<<   I have a tank full of race gas.  The gas is now 6 mos. old.  My next event
 isn't foe 2 or 3 months.  May I give this stuff to a friend with a very hot st
reet car, a camera with a 502 crate V8? Or for that matter any street car with 
no cat??  Could I leave it in and race with old gas? >>

Unless you like to flush money down the commode, race with it.  I have used
older gas than this, and it didn't seem to make a difference.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.

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From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 13 12:44:22 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 18:44:22 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Race gas
Message-ID: <2010168876-1210704336-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1557546584-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

It's hot-pink and smells like race fuel.  I'll use it.  

Steve
------Original Message------
From: WEmery7451 at aol.com
To: colordog.1 at earthlink.net
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: May 13, 2008 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Race gas

In a message dated 5/13/08 9:21:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time, colordog.1 at earthlink.net writes: > Unless you like to flush money down the commode, race with it. I have used older gas than this, and it didn't seem to make a difference. 


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.
 (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From gtlund at cyberspeedway.net  Tue May 13 12:56:04 2008
From: gtlund at cyberspeedway.net (greg)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:56:04 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Seat Height
Message-ID: <4829E444.4080603@cyberspeedway.net>

Group,

     While on the subject of seats there were some changes in the Snell 
2005 rating which made the helmet taller and caught some guys with the 
2" above the roll cage rule. If you have height trouble take a look at 
lowering the seat. You don't need to see directly in front of the car. 
Mounting the seat directly on the floor sometimes helps. You can also 
take advantage of the "driver comfort" statement in the PCS and move the 
floor down with a hammer if there is no frame in the way. Unfortunately 
that driver comfort thing has always been open to interpretation - I 
think 12" wide rubber would be lot more comfortable.

Greg Lund


From johnkipping at inet.net.nz  Tue May 13 20:09:27 2008
From: johnkipping at inet.net.nz (John Kipping)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 14:09:27 +1200
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
In-Reply-To: <001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
References: <001601c8b35e$db63fd00$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
	<BAY104-W4085974E026E2F2D76E21BDACF0@phx.gbl>
	<001401c8b424$724dc1e0$2b01a8c0@stevenhgi8vu27>
Message-ID: <482A49D7.5010909@inet.net.nz>

Most people only sell thrusts in pairs - order a standard set and a 
+.005 set and you'll be fine. It's normal to fit one standard and one at 
+.005.

Steven Preiss wrote:
> Thanks, and thanks to all who have responded.
> All that's left is to find out the stock thickness, and to measure what's in
> there now to determine what thickness to order. Anyone know the stock
> thickness? (Currently the endplay measures .012" using a feeler guage.)
> S.P.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Fred & Mary Hodgson
>   To: Steven Preiss
>   Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:58 PM
>   Subject: RE: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
>
>
>   Steve-
>
>   It can be done in-car without any great tribulation.  Drop the center main
> cap & push the upper halves around one at a time(one out, one in, repeat).  Be
> sure to check your end float with a dial indicator.  You may have to mix &
> match standard & oversize to get the desired clearance.  If that turns out to
> be the case, always put the heavier thrust washer to the rear as that's the
> one that gets the most loading from stepping on the clutch.
>
>   Fred Hodgson
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
>   > Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 23:02:16 +1100
>   > From: spreiss at verizon.net
>   > To: fot at autox.team.net
>   > Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
>   >
>   > Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
>   > (with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
> crank?
>   > If so, any tips or cautions?
>   > Steve P.
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > http://www.team.net/donate.html
>   >
>   > Fot mailing list
>   > Fot at autox.team.net
>   > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>   >
>   > You are subscribed as stlnyc at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as johnkipping at inet.net.nz


From mlcooknj at msn.com  Tue May 13 20:32:22 2008
From: mlcooknj at msn.com (michael cook)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:32:22 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2007 Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill Awards
In-Reply-To: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>
References: <0EC2D68777B944ABA419DB9580FB0EB9@SohlPC>
Message-ID: <BAY142-W451C0738FC17F01A67EE41C8CE0@phx.gbl>

Bill-

Thanks for the congratulations and for spreading the word. I got my copy of
Old Cars Weekly todayThanks to other FOT folks who sent messages.

There's two other Triumph guys who deserve congratulations. The 6-Pack
magazine made the list,
edited by Todd Bermudez.

Also, Snic Braaapp of the Illinois Sports Owners Association, edited by Bob
Streepy!

Hope to see you at NJTA in a couple of weeks.

Mike


Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:18:15 -0400From: billsohl at optonline.netSubject: 2007
Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill AwardsTo: fot at autox.team.net;
bdischer at blakedischer.com; rbtr3a at cox.net; wrsmith at multipro.comCC:
mlcooknj at msn.com; tr_jag at yahoo.com



I just received my latest issue of "Old Cars Weekly" and in this latest issue,
they announce their annual winners of their "Golden Quill Awards."  These
awards are for excellence in publication of antique and classic car club
publications.  I'm happy to report that FOTer Mike Cook received two awards
for editing and publishing The Vintage Triumph (the bi-monthly magazine of the
Vintage Triumph Register) and also for The Jaguar Journal.

Congratulations Mike.


Bill Sohl


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May 14 10:16:19 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 09:16:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>

Being lazy and not trying to look it up.  What is the SCCA required diameter
of the inspection hole in the roll cage bar?
thanks,

Chuck Arnold


From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Wed May 14 18:43:59 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 19:43:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805140916u2fece9e4j27bb171100dd7553@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002701c8b624$c3b16580$6601a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

I'm pretty sure its 3/16th because that's what mine are.
It's been through many inspections.



Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 11:16 AM
To: Friends
Subject: [Fot] rollcage inspection hole size

Being lazy and not trying to look it up.  What is the SCCA required diameter
of the inspection hole in the roll cage bar?
thanks,

Chuck Arnold
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as fasttrs at mindspring.com


From jibjib at att.net  Wed May 14 19:13:59 2008
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 18:13:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] thrust washer replacement
In-Reply-To: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>
References: <cb6.2c53c713.355a1faa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c8b628$f502fd20$cb01a8c0@HPPavilion>

If the 0.005's are too thick, the back of each bearing (the steel part, not
the bearing face) can be lapped down several thou, with fine sandpaper and a
flat surface.

Jack 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WEmery7451 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 3:33 PM
To: spreiss at verizon.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] thrust washer replacement

In a message dated 5/11/08 8:05:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
spreiss at verizon.net writes:

<< Has anyone ever attempted to replace the thrust washers in a TR3/4 engine
( with .005 oversize washers) without first removing the engine or the
crank?  If  so, any tips or cautions?  Steve P. >>

It is very easy to change out thrust washers from under the car.  Half of
both thrust washers come out when removing the center main bearing cap.  You
ca n normally rotate the new upper half of the thrust washer into the grove
while the old thrust washer rotates out.

I would be surprised if you get both of the 0.005" thrust washers in.  I
have used one oversize thrust washer and one stock size thrust washer to
reduce end play.  At one time, I believe that you could buy 0.003" and
0.004" size thrust washers.
**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food.

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You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Thu May 15 06:41:21 2008
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (sgroh1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:41:21 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
Message-ID: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>

FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas for a good paddock space with power hook-up?

Thanks!

Steve Groh
SVRA #393
63 Spitfire


From jsnook at wcnet.org  Thu May 15 07:15:49 2008
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:15:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
References: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003901c8b68d$cbb65fb0$6701a8c0@JeffSnook>

Hi Steve, I'll be there, but racing my Lotus and not the TR3.  I usually
paddock in the grass paddock area and there is no electrical hookups there as
far as I know.  I believe to get power you need to be near the garages.

Vroom, vroom,

Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: sgroh1 at comcast.net
  To: fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:41 AM
  Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event


  FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas for a
good paddock space with power hook-up?

  Thanks!

  Steve Groh
  SVRA #393
  63 Spitfire
  _______________________________________________
  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Fot mailing list
  Fot at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

  You are subscribed as jsnook_gmi at wcnet.org


From william.tobin3 at verizon.net  Thu May 15 07:37:33 2008
From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:37:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event
References: <051520081241.4537.482C2F71000992FD000011B92207022933CE08019D099C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000801c8b690$d50e5010$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae>

  Hi, I'm planning on going. I usually park next to my pal Dan Furey from
Columbus. We help each other on our cars, and I poach ppower from his
generator!-
  See you there.
  Bill Tobin Erie, PA TR6 Both car and driver are improving!---- Original
Message -----
  From: <sgroh1 at comcast.net>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:41 AM
  Subject: [Fot] SVRA Mid Ohio Event


  > FoT - Any FoT folks attending the Mid-Ohio event June 26-28? Any ideas
for a good paddock space with power hook-up?
  >
  > Thanks!
  >
  > Steve Groh
  > SVRA #393
  > 63 Spitfire
  > _______________________________________________
  > http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > Fot mailing list
  > Fot at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
  >
  > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net


From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May 15 13:31:35 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:31:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
Message-ID: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>

A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold 
shown here:

http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe-px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36

I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock 
manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.

Anyone recognize it?

Thanks,
chris


From srcypher at mac.com  Thu May 15 14:54:33 2008
From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:54:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>

Looks custom to me; reminds me of the good parts, inc. triple ZS  
manifolds for TR6's

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=2


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 15, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
shown here:

http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe- 
px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36

I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.

Anyone recognize it?

Thanks,
chris
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as srcypher at mac.com


From goodparts at verizon.net  Thu May 15 16:00:25 2008
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 18:00:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
	<4D738C8E-A759-4F78-A7BE-B5DBF07DB8DD@mac.com>
Message-ID: <482CB279.5060808@verizon.net>

Twasn't me.  At least not to my recollection.

Richard Good
Good Parts

Scott Cypher wrote:

>Looks custom to me; reminds me of the good parts, inc. triple ZS  
>manifolds for TR6's
>
>http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=2
>
>
>Thanks
>
>-Scott Cypher
>spitfireracer at xsmail.com
>SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
>Reading, PA
>http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher
>
>1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
>1971 TR6 TBD
>1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
>1976 TR7 Street
>
>
>"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
>Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
>of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
>
>On May 15, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
>
>A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
>shown here:
>
>http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe- 
>px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36
>
>I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
>manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.
>
>Anyone recognize it?
>
>Thanks,
>chris


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Thu May 15 18:56:14 2008
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 00:56:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Race Parts for Sale
Message-ID: <051620080056.6911.482CDBAE0007AB1A00001AFF22155670740A9D07009B079F9C9F00@comcast.net>

Posting this for a friend who has moved from his 1147 stuff to the 1300 Limited prep formula in H-Production.  You can contact me by reply or Chris directly...tell him I sent ya!

aaron


>From Chris Crisenbery:

I just purchased a 1982 Mini Pick-Up project that is being shipped over
from England in about a month and a half and I need two things cash and
a place to store it. 

So I need to make some room and turn a little cash to finish it off. 

I won't spend a ton of time with details, so just call or e-mail and
I'll run down the specs for you. Some of this stuff is stock and
suitable for the street, the racing engines are not! they are top notch
vintage or SCCA and are not streetable without lowering the compression
a BUNCH.

1. 1147cc engine with 303014 head - George Bauchman built 
2. 1147cc engine with 303014 head - George Bauchman built 
3. 1147cc engine - Rick Cline built (missing crank, but could be
supplied) 
4. Full prep rolling chassis, zero roll, custom a-arms (Great for F or
H) 
5. Rough racecar project roundtail Spitfire 
6. Multiple 1147cc stock engines and parts 
7. Multiple stock and 303014 heads all untouched 
8. Fiberglass fenders, bonnet and deck lid 
9. 4.11 rear ends 
10. Cline, Sargis and Huffacker Carbs 
11. Stock 1300cc heads 

If you don't see it on the list ask and I'll see what I have stashed
away. 
At this time very limited 1300cc stuff for sale. 

I'm willing to deal on multiple parts and engines and I will consider
all realistic offers as I would like to move this stuff soon. I am
serious about moving these parts but I didn't hit my head!  

Chris Crisenbery 
Home P/N (517) 789-8010 
Work P/N (517) 783-0710


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Thu May 15 23:58:28 2008
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 22:58:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
References: <482C8F97.6070607@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8b719$dd6e5500$6401a8c0@TER2>

It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube manifold 
that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and early 60s. 
The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above the main 
manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction. The 
overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
                                                                             
                Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Kantarjiev" <cak at dimebank.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:31 PM
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold


>A correspondent wrote and asked me to help identify the H6 manifold
> shown here:
>
> http://api.photoshop.com/home_fba4b808c21f4072a8eef075516fc4af/adobe-px-assets/7ab1912554474590803a54e870748b36
>
> I don't have any great idea. Doesn't appear to simply be a stock
> manifold that's been polished. He says there are no identifying marks.
>
> Anyone recognize it?
>
> Thanks,
> chris
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From cartravel at pobox.com  Fri May 16 06:15:02 2008
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 07:15:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>

Can someone tell me whether Watkins Glen is dog friendly?
Thanks,
Larry Young


From billsohl at optonline.net  Fri May 16 13:58:35 2008
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:58:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>

I presume you mean the track itself for the Vintage Race Weekend on Sept..

They have been since we have been going.
My son brings his German Sheppard and we've been regularly
bringing our Yorkshire Terrier.

I don't know if the track allows dogs for other events such as NASCAR which 
would
involve much larger crowds.

Bill Sohl
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:15 AM
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs


> Can someone tell me whether Watkins Glen is dog friendly?
> Thanks,
> Larry Young
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billsohl at optonline.net 


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 16 14:06:10 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:06:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Bring the leashes, please.

Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the track_. At 
least one was less than fortunate.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jerrybarr at charter.net  Fri May 16 14:15:01 2008
From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:15:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>

We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Bring the leashes, please.
>
> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
> track_. At
> least one was less than fortunate.
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Fri May 16 14:36:39 2008
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:36:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>
References: <482D7AC6.7070502@pobox.com>
	<BA71B68154614CFEBE578056E29DD509@SohlPC>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805161604560.6096@isis.mit.edu>
	<FC6EC729-DDA1-4B70-94D8-165438955792@charter.net>
Message-ID: <482DF057.5050402@141.com>

And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!

Hi Mike!   ;)

Susan   :)


Jerry Barr wrote:
> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>
>   
>> Hi,
>>
>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>
>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
>> track_. At
>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>
>> rml
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>> -----
>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>> -----
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>
>
>
>   

-- 
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"


From koblinger at verizon.net  Fri May 16 15:45:00 2008
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:45:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <1689858.642751210974300456.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

Rattlesnakes at Willow Springs, a particularly nasty variety known as the Mojave Green.

Cheers,
Kurt O.

>From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
>Date: 2008/05/16 Fri PM 03:36:39 CDT
>To: Jerry Barr <jerrybarr at charter.net>
>Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs

>And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!
>
>Hi Mike!   ;)
>
>Susan   :)
>
>
>Jerry Barr wrote:
>> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
>> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>>
>>   
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>>
>>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the  
>>> track_. At
>>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>>
>>> rml
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>> -----
>>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>> -----
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Fot mailing list
>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>>     
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>>
>>
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri May 16 15:51:27 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 17:51:27 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
Message-ID: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>

Ooh, haven't yet found the rattlers at WS but they are thick at  
Buttonwillow.  I'll keep my eyes out even more than usual.  We have  the Mohave Greens 
here in Vegas (well, the  mountains).



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From budscars at comcast.net  Fri May 16 16:00:15 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:00:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
References: <1689858.642751210974300456.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <01b201c8b7a0$3977ebf0$0202a8c0@Bud>

we have rattlers at Infineon out here, and also up at Thunderhill..In the 
days of Castle Rock Raceway in Colorado, the stewards warned drivers to 
'stay in your car' if you go off course..tons of rattlers...A friend told me 
a story..about that area..He was towing his H modified with his VW 
bus..after the races he came across a camp ground and was surprised that 
there was no one there...so he and his crew threw down their bags and hit 
the rack...In the morning, a Ranger pulled up..Gus stood up and told the 
ranger that would pay for the campsite now, because they were so tired the 
night before...The ranger replied..Oh, there's no problem...I was just 
surprised to see you here..I didn't think anyone camped here because there 
are so many rattlesnakes..Then Gus noticed the warning signs..whooohoo!.
Racer Bud
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <koblinger at verizon.net>
To: "Susan Kahler" <spitfiresuz at 141.com>; "Jerry Barr" 
<jerrybarr at charter.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs


> Rattlesnakes at Willow Springs, a particularly nasty variety known as the 
> Mojave Green.
>
> Cheers,
> Kurt O.
>
>>From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz at 141.com>
>>Date: 2008/05/16 Fri PM 03:36:39 CDT
>>To: Jerry Barr <jerrybarr at charter.net>
>>Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
>
>>And a skunk at Mid-Ohio!
>>
>>Hi Mike!   ;)
>>
>>Susan   :)
>>
>>
>>Jerry Barr wrote:
>>> We had an Emu on track at Blackhawk Farms.
>>> On May 16, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Robert Lang wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> Bring the leashes, please.
>>>>
>>>> Did anyone else catch the GP2 race from Turkey? Dogs _on the
>>>> track_. At
>>>> least one was less than fortunate.
>>>>
>>>> rml
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>>> -----
>>>> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>>>> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>>>> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>>>> -----
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>> Fot mailing list
>>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>>
>>>> You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Fot mailing list
>>> Fot at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>-- 
>>There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude 
>>Quoting Idiot!"
>>_______________________________________________
>>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Fot mailing list
>>Fot at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From lunkercars at earthlink.net  Fri May 16 16:27:40 2008
From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg - Lunker Hilyer)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:27:40 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
References: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6A05BA57-EC9F-45EA-84F7-2A923AA1DE77@earthlink.net>

And don't forget about the kamikaze turtle at Hallett last year. And  
did you hear the one about the snail that was victim of a hit-and- 
run?... When the cops showed up to take his statement, the only thing  
he could say was... "it all happened so fast, I really don't remember  
what happened".
On the other hand, I had a real problem last weekend with one feral,  
lame dog that truly seemed to like watching vintage racing. For one  
entire run group, the poor old thing sat there [observing?] between  
turns 13 and 14, right in the best viewpoint. When animal control  
showed up, we in the tower made the change to the short track and  
then watched the Laurel & Hardy show as the dog catchers chased a  
old, limping dod from turn 12 to turn 2. After 45 mins., they came  
back saying they lost it in a high speed corner. Full track got under- 
way and we never saw the dog or the doigcatcher again.
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 # 314
Albuquerque NM
On May 16, 2008, at 3:51 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

> Ooh, haven't yet found the rattlers at WS but they are thick at
> Buttonwillow.  I'll keep my eyes out even more than usual.  We  
> have  the Mohave Greens
> here in Vegas (well, the  mountains).
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists  
> on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Fri May 16 16:44:28 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 18:44:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen & Dogs
In-Reply-To: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
References: <d59.20347e08.355f5bdf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007501c8b7a6$66bbb190$6501a8c0@richardiipc>

After practice a couple of years ago I pitched a tent at Mid Ohio. Took a
little hike with a cold Bass Ale just to enjoy the quiet dusk and sweet
evening farm-land smells. A truly beautiful way to end a day of noise,
exhaust fumes and challenge. Got back to my camp and raccoons had eaten
every bit of the food in my chest. There was not even a bag of nuts left. 

Going to sleep hungry wasn't nearly as annoying as the repetitive nocturnal
return of the rest of my not-much-loved Procyonidae's family. 

Richard  


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Fri May 16 23:46:45 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:46:45 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
(off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
anyone found something suitable???
Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Fri May 16 23:50:47 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:50:47 +1000
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat May 17 00:10:44 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 08:10:44 +0200
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
References: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <D773D55192194C7A94F8525E29F2CA97@Mobil>

I'm not sure you'll be successful.
Weber don't have a wide range. You have to deside: Power at low or at high 
range.

I would suppose your injection to be more flexible than Webers when you 
alter the mixture curve plate (don't know the english name).

Cheers
Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers


> I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It 
> currently
> runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some 
> webers
> to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
> comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
> I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
> before I start out
> Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com 


From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Sat May 17 03:08:32 2008
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:08:32 +0100
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
In-Reply-To: <20080517055046.XLQB9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <480CEB800576B738@> (added by '')

Hi Terry,

Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the Lucas
PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam profile
of course).

Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years of
development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Terry and Cindy
Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com


From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Sat May 17 03:17:42 2008
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:17:42 +0100
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
Message-ID: <482C143600669751@> (added by postmaster@mail.o2.co.uk)

Terry,

If it is a GT6 that you are working on then another Jon, Jon Wolfe, here in
the UK has many years of racing Spitfires, GT6s, and TR7 V8s and has written
several books on the subject.

Google tr7v8-racing and click on Jon Wolfe's marvellous Triumph Racing
pages.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Files [mailto:keithfiles at btinternet.com] 
Sent: 17 May 2008 10:09
To: 'Terry and Cindy'; 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Fot] injection vs webers

Hi Terry,

Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the Lucas
PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam profile
of course).

Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years of
development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.

Cheers, Keith.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Terry and Cindy
Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers

I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It currently
runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some webers
to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
before I start out
Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 17 05:32:38 2008
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:32:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
References: <20080517054645.XKHS9173.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>
Message-ID: <482EC256.7070907@cfl.rr.com>

If memory serves me right, there is a short and long Lucas starter. I 
had the short version on my GT6 and it clears the Mueller headers that 
are on the car. Of course if you are running big time compression ratios 
then the Lucas probably won't have enough umph! to turn the engine over.

Terry and Cindy wrote:
> I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
> clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
> (off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
> which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
> prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
> anyone found something suitable???
> Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat May 17 08:11:08 2008
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (mark eginton)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:11:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] few questions
Message-ID: <20080517141107.DCDT4128.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>

Hi Joe,

 

My son and I are rebuilding Dads old race engine. I was looking out of
curiosity at your flywheel. Beautiful design, probably beyond my needs and
finances for an aggressive street car. I am considering running an old
lightened flywheel from my dads stash. Are these motors balanced neutral so
you can replace a flywheel if it does not work out? 

 

Dad hogged out a lot of material; when I was 16, I drove the car very hard
with this flywheel for a decade or so before replacing the engine and
putting the racing engine in the parts pile for future finances. I was going
to have it magnifluxed but my machinist said that tons of surface cracks
will mask anything serious. Any thoughts beyond fabricating a scatter
shield? I am planning an 1/8 steel band tacked to the trans cover and
anchored to the frame on either side.

 

The guys at BP northwest offered me quite a deal on 87mm piston / liner kit.
I have heard a couple of thoughts on these. One is that they are great
because they are thicker than stock liners, the other is that its better to
bore stock liners because the metal is better. I have a good set of 85mm
pistons and lots of liners, is it really worth the $425 to go to the 87mm.

 

I sent in another email to the group regarding which motor to build. I would
love to hear your thoughts. I can't wait to get this back on the road!

 

Thanks, hope life is treating you well,

 

Best,

 

M


From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Sat May 17 08:20:11 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 09:20:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
References: <480CEB800576B738@> (added by '')
Message-ID: <00ad01c8b829$1ee76430$84620143@your55e5f9e3d2>

up to 8000 RPM!!!

what are those boys doing for cranks and
the rest of the bottom end to clutch?

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Files" <keithfiles at btinternet.com>
To: "'Terry and Cindy'" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers


> Hi Terry,
>
> Can't supply any technical detail but would tell you that all of the
> successful TR5/6 racers in the UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in
> order to a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you get with the 
> Lucas
> PI and b) to extract more power at up to 8000 rpm (depending on cam 
> profile
> of course).
>
> Jon Wood in the UK has been the leading light on these conversions and it
> was him who finally persuaded me to move from the PI system, after years 
> of
> development and cost, to Webers; I have never looked back.
>
> Cheers, Keith.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+keithfiles=btinternet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Terry and Cindy
> Sent: 17 May 2008 06:51
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] injection vs webers
>
> I'm preparing for some dyno work on our spare 2500 race engine. It 
> currently
> runs Lucas injection (very sucessfully), but I'm tempted to try some 
> webers
> to get a bit more mid range punch. Has anyone does any back-to-back
> comparisions with 40 vs 42 vs 45 or even vs Lucas injection??
> I've got various sets of webers to try, but would appreciate any comments
> before I start out
> Thanks, terry o'beirne, Australia
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as keithfiles at btinternet.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1446 - Release Date: 
> 5/16/2008 7:42 AM


From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com  Sat May 17 08:29:11 2008
From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (mark eginton)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:29:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Suppose you were building a motor for your favorite sunday
 street car
Message-ID: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>

Curious what people are happy with in a aggressive street TR3 motor for your
favorite Sunday street car? This car won't idle much, Upstate NY back roads
- Infrequent Track "club events" and autocross for fun, but no fender to
fender racing.

 

Specifically: is the TR4 head worth going to, I have plenty of TR3 heads,
would rather have the shelf space unless it makes a significant difference.
I may do some port matching but that's about it unless.

 

TR4A Cam or "D" Cam - have new old stock D cam from dads old stash.

 

Probably 87mm pistons kits from BP NW...

 

Pump gas and today's grade premium; what head thickness or compression ratio
can I get away with. 

 

Anyone got a rebuildable limited slip pumpkin in their stash; I accidently
threw one out when I broke a tooth street racing back in my teenage daze -
took me years to figure out why the car did not powerslide any more; live
and learn.

 

Any other thoughts, I have a lot of toys that I have to peanut-butter across
my discretionary funds; time is a little less of an issue.  

 

I accidentally sent a message meant for Joe to the group - apologies.

 

Looking forward to placing faces with email names and handles to many of you
this fall.

 

Loving spring!!!

 

Mark


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Thu May  8 07:52:14 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:52:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing- more info
References: <01d801c8b0b6$d69b2f50$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8b112$b9c3e550$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Tee Shirts - even though we don't have a design to show yet, you should 
expect price  will be about $16 for short sleeve and $20 for long sleeve.
Polo Shirts - someone mentioned they would like to see these as a choice and 
we could offer one if there is enough interest so please vote on this too. 
Probably $25

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <S.Janzen at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:54 PM
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing


> I'm writing to solicit opinions on clothing FOT proposes to offer in
> conjunction with the 2008 Watkins Glen Kastner Cup.  The clothing will be
> embroidered with FOT logos, and there will be FOT printed tee shirts with
> original Triumph-inspired artwork .  What I'd like you to do is take a 
> look at
> the website (link below) and shoot me an email indicating what items you 
> would
> be interested in buying.  If you think I have missed the mark entirely let 
> me
> know that too.  We will be offering everything at cost of production. 
> Costs
> are on the website.
>
> Here are the parameters:
>  1.. We are offering a) several clothing choices with the embroidered 
> logo,
> and b) high quality tee shirts (short and long sleeve if some of you want
> both) with a five color ink silk screen design by Greg Petrolati, 
> featuring an
> "all Triumph race " illustration on the back and the FOT logo with the 
> Prince
> of Parkness mace fist, flags, helmet, laurels etc on the front
>  2.. the embroidered logo will not, repeat not, be the five color logo
> described above that you have seen  printed on previous tee shirts.
> Unfortunately, it is too complicated to embroider in a 3" area on 
> clothing.
> The embroidered logo will be as shown on the website (link, below).  I am
> hopeful the proposed design will satisfiy most of you - if there is 
> universal
> revulsion to it, hey, I have no artistic ego that will suffer - the 
> embroidery
> could consist simply of the words without the graphic.
>  3.. We need to get orders for about 100 embroidered items (not 100 of the
> same shirt, but total hats, shirts, etc) to have the embroidery done
>  4.. We need about ten orders for each individual item to include them as
> clothing choices.
>  5.. We are not taking orders now.  This is only to determine interest or
> lack thereof.  If, for example, only two people respond to this and say 
> they
> will buy a baseball cap, we won't offer that as a choice when it's time to
> order.
>  6.. Based on your responses I'll come up with a short list and be back at
> you taking orders in the near term
>  7.. Tee shirts - we do not have the artwork ready for you to see yet, so 
> I
> am not asking for indications of interest at this time.  Greg created the 
> FOT
> logo, so you know the tee shirt art will be great!  We'll follow up on 
> this
> later when we can show you the great design!
>  8.. We are going to do pre-orders only.   Only orders recieved by a 
> deadline
> (to be determined) in advance of Watkins Glen will be produced.  There 
> will
> not be any items (except perhaps x-large tee shirts) that will be 
> available
> for purchase if you do not pre-order.
>  9.. Ted Shumacher will be orchestrating the mfg and delivery process, so
> anything you order can be paid for by credit card and shipped to you or 
> picked
> up from him at the Glen.
>  10.. Traditional FOT logo - for those of you that are a big fan of this, 
> as
> I am,  if there is sufficient interest, this can be produced as a sew-on
> patch.  Apparently the weaving process can make a much more detailed 
> design.
> Cost $7-$10
> Here's the link.  This was the best way I could come up with to show you 
> what
> items look like.  Sorry I am not proficient enough to set it up so you can
> vote right on the site, but simply send me a return email with an X next 
> to
> the item indicating your interest, using the list below.  Everything will 
> be
> available in the usual range of sizes.  Keep in mind that it is often cool 
> at
> the Glen in September.
>
> http://www.freewebs.com/sjanzen/
>
> Baseball Cap                    ____
> Long Sleeve Denim Shirt   ____
> Long Sleeve Twill Shirt      ____
> Columbia Jacket              ____
> Windshirt                        ____
> Sew-on Patch                 ____
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Sat May 17 16:48:57 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 18:48:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] injection vs webers
Message-ID: <BLU127-W28774EACFFBC18D0D805AE8CCB0@phx.gbl>

Keith Files wrote:
> [snip] all of the successful TR5/6 racers in the
> UK have converted to triple 45 DCOE's in order to
> a) eliminate the 4000 rpm 'black hole' that you
> get with the Lucas PI [snip]

There is a "black hole" in DCOEs when they transition
to the main circuit, but at least with Webers, you can
set the rpm where the stumble occurs.  This may be OK
for narrow-band rpm road racers, but it is a PITA
for autoX.

And for the FOTer who expressed surprise at 8K rpm in
the 6, this is possible with a nitrided cross-drilled
billet crank, something that is STILL not available in
the US (for less than $6K).  :(

Shane Ingate in NM


_________________________________________________________________
Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May 18 06:00:15 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:00:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
Message-ID: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a

>If memory serves me right, there is a short and long Lucas starter. I 
>had the short version on my GT6 and it clears the Mueller headers that 
>are on the car. Of course if you are running big time compression ratios 
>then the Lucas probably won't have enough umph! to turn the engine over.
>
>Terry and Cindy wrote:
>> I'm chasing a replacment starter for a GT6 that is shorter to give me more
>> clearance around the extractors. The Japanese Nippondenso ones I've measured
>> (off Toyotas etc) require a thick adaptor plate to sort out gear meshing,
>> which results in them being about the same length as the Lucas one. I'm
>> prepared to remake the backing plate to suit a different bolt pattern. Has
>> anyone found something suitable???
>> Thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


From srcypher at mac.com  Sun May 18 06:53:32 2008
From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:53:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
References: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>

Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a  
direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a


From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net  Sun May 18 08:35:05 2008
From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 10:35:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
References: <7156C83F.532DB9F4.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000401c8b8f4$5f21f0d0$6701a8c0@DFN4YV61>

At one time I was using a starter from a 94 Celica >cheap from the bone yard 
$10.00 I had to make a plate  to adapt to the hole on the back plate (Tr-6) 
It was a fairly simple mod
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Cypher" <srcypher at mac.com>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; "Terry and Cindy" <roadandtrack at bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter


> Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
> I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...
>
> http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm
>
>
> Thanks
>
> -Scott Cypher
> spitfireracer at xsmail.com
> SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
> Reading, PA
> http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher
>
> 1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
> 1971 TR6 TBD
> 1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
> 1976 TR7 Street
>
>
> "I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.
> Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start
> of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
>
> On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a
> direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.
>
> joe a
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net 


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Mon May 19 06:27:19 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:27:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Trying to find Greg Petrolati
Message-ID: <002101c8b9ab$b12a8880$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Anybody know how to reach him?  I think he moved from Illinois and now his
email is bouncing back - thanks!


From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Mon May 19 07:01:52 2008
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <398DEF07-8A01-4971-A6A2-F30B2960C4D7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b9b0$8230d480$2001a8c0@Dell5100Laptop>

I don't know if this will help anyone else, but this same starter
(Autozone pn 16878) is a direct replacement for an older commercially
modified starter that was on my TR4A.  All that was necessary was to
remove the gear and the front of the new starter's housing, being
careful of the gears inside, and replace that with the old starter's
housing and adapter, along with the original gear.  Don

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+ofbracing=nefcom.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+ofbracing=nefcom.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Scott Cypher
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:54 AM
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net; Terry and Cindy
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter

Almost direct; you have to modify the spacer to get the right depth...
I have one that I can't use on my spit, if you wanted...

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm


Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #57 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.mac.com/srcypher

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1963 Spit Mki Roller (For Sale Cheap)
1976 TR7 Street


"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On May 18, 2008, at 8:00 AM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

there are reports that an ISUZU starter of certain years can be a  
direct replacement, but i have never confirmed that.

joe a
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as ofbracing at nefcom.net

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.20/1452 - Release Date:
5/17/2008 6:26 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1454 - Release Date:
5/19/2008 7:44 AM


From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon May 19 07:03:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:03:05 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Watkins Glen FOT Clothing-AND NOW MORE INFO....
Message-ID: <d0a.249eec3b.3562d489@cs.com>

2nd send on this....too big the first time.

Scott,

> Great Selection by you & Ted. This is a lot of work. It should be rewarded 
> by early responses. I'd like to come up with DRIVER PREMIUM item, but need to 
> look at funding...
> 
> I met with Jack Woehrle today. HE IS OUR CHAMPION in this event. We will 
> have a very choice place to paddock. This will include a specicific location for 
> the WPTA HOSPITALITY TENT adjacent to a hard surface slab to conduct our own 
> TECH SESSIONS & to display prominent and significant TRIUMPHS during the 
> weekend. 
> 
> Also, these SIGNIFICANT TRIUMPHS will be afforded secure space in the TECH 
> BARN in the evenings. Contact me if you have a requirement for secure space. 
> 
> This will be the most incredible FOT EVENT OF THIS DECADE. 

> Joe Alexander
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >Tee Shirts - even though we don't have a design to show yet, you should 
> >expect price  will be about $16 for short sleeve and $20 for long sleeve.
> >Polo Shirts - someone mentioned they would like to see these as a choice 
> and 
> >we could offer one if there is enough interest so please vote on this too. 
> >Probably $25
> 

   </HTML>


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 19 07:30:25 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:30:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>

Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train 
damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the 
shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade 
8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in 
the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker 
shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.

I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is 
breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both 
resulting in collateral damage.

What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding

---prevention of breaking?

---prevention of backing out?



uncle jack 


From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon May 19 08:23:45 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:23:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Suppose you were building a motor for your favorite
 sunday street car
In-Reply-To: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMedia
	Center>
References: <20080517142910.FERD24214.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@HPMediaCenter>
Message-ID: <200805191423.m4JENtOH130378@ns3.geneseo.net>

>My two cents worth for a warmed up street motor:


Mill head to give 9 to 9.5:1 compression ratio
install exhaust header
install street type (3/4) performance camshaft
install lighter flywheel

the first three will give you 15 to 20 hp increase, the lighter 
flywheel will give more acceleration.

All the other things that may be done to the engine return less bang 
for the buck, and most of the other mods help only from 3500 rpm up - 
so if it's a normal street driver, the engine will seldom see the rev 
range where it will benefit. If you want to win autocrosses, that's a 
different story.


uncle jack 


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May 19 11:13:33 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:13:33 EDT
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
Message-ID: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time, 
gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:


> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube 
> manifold 
> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and early 60s. 
> 
> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above the main 
> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction. The 
> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>                                                                              
> 
>                 Greg Solow
> 

By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we conclude there 
was no advantage?

Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom TR2 
manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was interesting, but in light 
of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an upgrade.

Bill 


**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on 
family favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 19 12:57:19 2008
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:57:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
In-Reply-To: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
References: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>

Never heard of this failure on this side of the pond.
What do you rev, what cam lift you use, what rocker do you use, which valve 
spings?

Maybe too much torgue on the bolts, or not enough torgue?
Stange thing. I use the old stock bolts and had no failure till now with a 
mileage of about 2000 mls.

Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs


> Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
> damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
> shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
> 8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
> the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
> shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.
>
> I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
> breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
> resulting in collateral damage.
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding
>
> ---prevention of breaking?
>
> ---prevention of backing out?
>
>
>
> uncle jack
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com 


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 19 13:03:48 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:03:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
In-Reply-To: <4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>
References: <200805191330.m4JDUY4N106910@ns3.geneseo.net>
	<4D7288C9C16A455AABD43638FF927820@Mobil>
Message-ID: <AE48540D-BE85-467B-866C-F2F34EDE5630@bnj.com>

I've had them turn loose. I use ARP studs, aircraft nuts, and machined  
flat washers, a little bit of red locktite and nothing comes loose  
anymore. I also use the rocker stands that support the end of the  
rocker shaft.
On May 19, 2008, at 11:57 AM, MadMarx wrote:

> Never heard of this failure on this side of the pond.
> What do you rev, what cam lift you use, what rocker do you use,  
> which valve
> spings?
>
> Maybe too much torgue on the bolts, or not enough torgue?
> Stange thing. I use the old stock bolts and had no failure till now  
> with a
> mileage of about 2000 mls.
>
> Chris
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
> To: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:30 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
>
>
>> Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
>> damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
>> shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
>> 8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
>> the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
>> shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.
>>
>> I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
>> breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
>> resulting in collateral damage.
>>
>> What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding
>>
>> ---prevention of breaking?
>>
>> ---prevention of backing out?
>>
>>
>>
>> uncle jack
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From REK46 at aol.com  Mon May 19 13:09:29 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 15:09:29 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <c06.35f5973d.35632a69@aol.com>

I've had pedestals break, but never a stud prob in 25 yrs


**************

Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.
 
     (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


From Billb at bnj.com  Mon May 19 13:34:19 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:34:19 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
In-Reply-To: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
References: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <88193492-4EE7-4BA9-8A67-7B7647E656EC@bnj.com>

It' probably did a nice job of keeping the exhaust manifold clean-- 
amals are notorious gas leakers. The only place I have Amals is on my  
Vincent and my Goldstars, and that's just for period authenticity.  
Otherwise they'd join my lucas distributors in the catapult.

On May 19, 2008, at 10:13 AM, billdentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
> gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:
>
>
>> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube
>> manifold
>> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and  
>> early 60s.
>>
>> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above  
>> the main
>> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction.  
>> The
>> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>>
>>
>>                Greg Solow
>>
>
> By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we  
> conclude there
> was no advantage?
>
> Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom  
> TR2
> manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was  
> interesting, but in light
> of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an  
> upgrade.
>
> Bill
>
>
> **************
> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
> family favorites at AOL Food.
>
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon May 19 14:04:02 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:04:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold
References: <c65.25ff83a7.35630f3d@aol.com>
	<88193492-4EE7-4BA9-8A67-7B7647E656EC@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <011501c8b9eb$7bdd6860$3a16c548@RW>

I did some work with the Amals way back when oil was being formed in the 
earth.  Waste of time. Sure looked good though.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <Billb at bnj.com>
To: <billdentin at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>; <cak at dimebank.com>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] mystery morgan manifold


> It' probably did a nice job of keeping the exhaust manifold clean-- 
> amals are notorious gas leakers. The only place I have Amals is on my
> Vincent and my Goldstars, and that's just for period authenticity.
> Otherwise they'd join my lucas distributors in the catapult.
>
> On May 19, 2008, at 10:13 AM, billdentin at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 05/16/2008 12:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
>> gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com writes:
>>
>>
>>> It looks like a cast alluminum version of the fabricated steel tube
>>> manifold
>>> that were made by V.K. Derriington in England in the late 50s and
>>> early 60s.
>>>
>>> The tubular steel fabricated manifold have the balance tube above
>>> the main
>>> manifold. It connects right in the center top of each "v" junction.
>>> The
>>> overall form of the manifolds are very similar.
>>>
>>>
>>>                Greg Solow
>>>
>>
>> By virtue of the fact that we've not seen a ton of them can we
>> conclude there
>> was no advantage?
>>
>> Years ago someone from California sent me some pictures of a custom
>> TR2
>> manifold with duel Amal carbs he wanted to sell.  It was
>> interesting, but in light
>> of the fact I never saw any others, I had to assume it was not an
>> upgrade.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> **************
>> Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
>> family favorites at AOL Food.
>>
>> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Fot mailing list
>> Fot at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>>
>> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
>
> Bill Babcock
> Babcock & Jenkins
> Billb at bnj.com
> 503.936.7660
> www.bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net 


From roadandtrack at bigpond.com  Mon May 19 15:44:45 2008
From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 07:44:45 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 japanese starter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1211220001.20507.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080519214443.ECSU1860.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Rat01>

Thanks for all the input folks. It seems the Isuzu 2.6 starter will
basically bolt in, but it seems to be the exact same length once fitted, so
that does not help me. What I really wanted was a starter that was at least
1" shorter than the Lucas one. The same info must apply to TR6 etc. I was
sure someone had posted once about a conversion that was shorter.  Thanks
again
Terry


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon May 19 18:47:05 2008
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 00:47:05 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Rocker stand studs
Message-ID: <20080519.204705.26603.0@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

Jack, I also use ARP studs, but with ARP washers and nuts.  I do not locktight
them, though.  I check rocker clearances every couple of races or if I
retorque the head, so typically they are never in there long enough,
untouched, to get loose.  The ARP studs have an Allen head at the top and I
just tighten them in with the Allen head.  So far they have never been loose.
I use BFE aluminum pedastals with the supports for rockers 1 and 8 and roller
rockers.  Joe(B)

-- "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net> wrote:
Again this weekend one of our TR competitors suffered valve train
damage because the rear rocker stand stud backed all the way out, the
shaft broke, and rockers were damaged. The studs appeared to be grade
8 studs, the one that backed out was not damaged, and the threads in
the head were not damaged. On this particular engine, the rocker
shaft stands were steel and were in as-new condition.

I've seen multiple occurrences of two failure modes -- one is
breaking the end studs, the other is studs backing out. Both
resulting in collateral damage.

What is the collective wisdom of the list regarding

---prevention of breaking?

---prevention of backing out?



uncle jack
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net

_____________________________________________________________
Victim of medical malpractice?  Click here to find an expert lawyer to help
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From bfeken at copper.net  Mon May 19 19:21:28 2008
From: bfeken at copper.net (BFEKen@copper.net)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 18:21:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
Message-ID: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>

Jack, We have been dealing with the pedestal stud problem for some years. It
started with the first high lift & very radical cams & after an extensive
investigation we found that the pedestals rocked back & forth
when the nuts were torque to about 25-30 ft-lbs. We first used grade
8 studs from Bowman, but as the stud torque remained at 25-30 ft-lbs
we still had problems. A chance call to Pete Cox revealed that the brits
did not have grade 8 studs, but had increased the torque to 40psi & that
the problem had just about been solved. After we supplied them with
grade 8 studs & they secured them with mini head nuts the problem was
gone.
We had ARP supply us with some special studs & the Brits used Mini
head nuts torque to 60 ft-pounds. To prevent the studs from unscrewing we put
them in with locktite.
 We have been supplying western racers with the kits , including the
mini head nuts for   $80.00. for several years & no failures. I am still a
bit shy about 60 ft-lbs & have been using 45 ft-lbs & locktite

Ken
British Frame & Engine


From igofaster at charter.net  Mon May 19 19:44:47 2008
From: igofaster at charter.net (igofaster at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 18:44:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Eagles Canyon CVAR May 2008
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1210960800.32684.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080519214447.NMCUM.87112.root@fepweb15>

Hello FoT! 
Great weekend in North Texas for CVAR! The transmission from Quantum Mechanics worked perfectly! I did not have a chance to run until friday test and tune....The GT6 performed very well every time out... Sunday was a little hot, but, all in all, a very wonderful weekend for the Triumph GT6!
Joe Hovey trashed his engine the first day... 
I guess he and I were the only members of FoT racing although I heard Ed Bernard was there with his son doing corner work.
I can't say enough about how the CVAR crew really made me feel special for going through the changes they required. It was evident saturday morning drivers meeting when Bob Green our chief steward clearly stated, "Play within our rules, or go home". Silence followed by a huge round of applause! Our president , George Curl had 70 plus emails from Group 1 the night before (big cars) ... some personal remarks about the stance of vintage... one driver has been tossed out on the 13/13 rule and three more were in line...
I had a blast, best part was sunday with our last session of 20 minutes, I was NOT passed by anyone!!!   Hey... I'm glad to start in last and just FINISH while I get my seat time in....  really a great weekend for me!

All the best!

Bobby Whitehead
#54 YELLOW CVAR / Triumph GT6+


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon May 19 19:59:17 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:59:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>

Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?

Thanks,
Marty





_________________________________________________________________
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon May 19 20:25:36 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:25:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
>
>   

The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the 
shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit 
wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of 
the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring 
pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and 
stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to 
the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train 
is the one to flex.
 

In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow, 
with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the 
stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath 
the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts 
loosening up. 


What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly 
larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then 
installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.  
That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to 
hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the 
pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit, 
since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and 
over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth 
under load.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Mon May 19 20:38:50 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 22:38:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng><BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller rocker 
setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg 
out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs and 
hardened washers and nuts from ARP.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


> marty sukey wrote:
>> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
>> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
>>
>>
>
> The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
> shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
> wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
> the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
> pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
> stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to
> the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
> is the one to flex.
>
>
> In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
> with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the
> stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath
> the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
> loosening up.
>
>
> What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
> larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
> installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
> That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
> hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
> pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
> since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
> over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth
> under load.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> -- 
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking 
> distance....
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Mon May 19 21:50:29 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
Message-ID: <008701c8ba2c$a61301d0$0202a8c0@Bud>

Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire #21


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Tue May 20 07:03:42 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:03:42 EDT
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
Message-ID: <c72.31b12f89.3564262e@aol.com>

Front Spindles?  Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for  the 
Lotus crowd.  High spec material and all.
 
 
In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
budscars at comcast.net writes:

Hello  Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know  
of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at  dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire  #21
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
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From dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 20 07:37:34 2008
From: dale.oesterle at sbcglobal.net (dale oesterle)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 06:37:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
In-Reply-To: <c72.31b12f89.3564262e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <245495.69143.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have two complete front gt6 sets, uprights, spindles, rotors, calipers (one with aluminum hubs; one minus calipers.)  Dale

Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:  Front Spindles? Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for the 
Lotus crowd. High spec material and all.


In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
budscars at comcast.net writes:

Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you have/know 
of
some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
thanks..
Racer Bud
spitfire #21
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as gt6steve at aol.com





**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 20 09:42:54 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 08:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
In-Reply-To: <005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
	<005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805200842s3ef6648cg6b8cccc98818c2b@mail.gmail.com>

Michel,
Michael,
I will supply some pedestals if you will bore them and let me know the stud
diameter -- suggest we find a stock ARP stud/washer/bolts  to use if
possible.  This would be tested in a high compression, high lift long
duration cam, PI TR6 race car.

Scott -- what ARP stud number?  Stock diameter?

chuck

On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:38 PM, Scott Janzen <S.Janzen at comcast.net> wrote:

> Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller rocker
> setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg
> out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs and
> hardened washers and nuts from ARP.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
> To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs
>
>
> > marty sukey wrote:
> >> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is this
> >> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
> > shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
> > wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
> > the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
> > pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
> > stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done to
> > the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
> > is the one to flex.
> >
> >
> > In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
> > with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around the
> > stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm underneath
> > the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
> > loosening up.
> >
> >
> > What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
> > larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
> > installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
> > That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
> > hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
> > pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
> > since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
> > over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and forth
> > under load.
> >
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > Michael Porter
> > Roswell, NM
> >
> >
> > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> > distance....
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Fot mailing list
> > Fot at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
> >
> > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue May 20 09:48:14 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 08:48:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
References: <245495.69143.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004101c8ba90$eb370e50$0202a8c0@Bud>

thanks to everyone for the help with the spindles
Racer Bud
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: dale oesterle
  To: Gt6steve at aol.com ; budscars at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net
  Cc: dabeaupre at gmail.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 6:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed


  I have two complete front gt6 sets, uprights, spindles, rotors, calipers
(one with aluminum hubs; one minus calipers.)  Dale

  Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
    Front Spindles? Joe Siam is selling some really nice ones made for the
    Lotus crowd. High spec material and all.


    In a message dated 5/19/2008 8:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
    budscars at comcast.net writes:

    Hello Gang...A friend of mine is looking for GT6 spindles..If you
have/know
    of
    some..please contact Dean Beaupre at dabeaupre at gmail.com
    thanks..
    Racer Bud
    spitfire #21
    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as gt6steve at aol.com





    **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
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    favorites at AOL Food.
    (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
    _______________________________________________
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From dodo at texas.net  Tue May 20 10:02:57 2008
From: dodo at texas.net (Robert D. MacKenzie)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 11:02:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
Message-ID: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>

I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl installation I
started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer

I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct brackets/mounts
with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be installed
on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.

The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up new
lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the existing brake
lines.
Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.  

The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The front
brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried to bleed
the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort. When I
blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by themselves.  When
everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal effort but
no brakes.  Not good.

I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed to work
until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind again.  

I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes caused
the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can apply the
rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does not seem
to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting the two
pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that did not
make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side made no
difference.  I believe each individual component is working right, just not
together.

Before I go much further I have some basic questions:

Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller cylinder
on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice as the
other will always be open?

Any help/advice will be appreciated.

Thanks


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:26:07 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:26:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed
References: <d4f.293df89c.35644e86@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007f01c8ba96$359e80e0$0202a8c0@Bud>

I forwarded the emails to Dean..I don't know what he's decided...just wanted
to thank everyone for the great response so far...I think they are for a
Brabham BT25?
racer Bud
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: REK46 at aol.com
  To: budscars at comcast.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 8:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] gt6 spindles needed


  so where did you get?


  **************
  Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
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From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:54:12 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
Message-ID: <003301c8ba9a$21769a90$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

If i understand the problem, the fronts are engaging beflre the rears - 
usually calipers need much more fluid than wheel cylinders - think of the 
relative piston area - so I am surprised it is not the other way around. 
One thing you have not mentioned is the bias bar, between the pedal arm and 
two piston pusrods, which I assume you have and is usually the means to 
adjust relative piston travel front to rear.

My GT6 set-up uses two girling clutch masters - 5/8 bore with a Tilton bias 
bar between them.  The "front" master cylinder piston travels more than the 
rear given the greater fluid needs of the calipers vs wheel cylinders, so 
the bias bar goes from being tilted one direction to the other as the front 
master piston travels much further.  I have thought about going to a 3/4 
bore for the front and leaving the rear the same, to push 50% more fluid to 
the front ("pi" r squared) with the same piston travel.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert D. MacKenzie" <dodo at texas.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire


>I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl installation 
>I
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct 
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be 
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the existing 
> brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried to 
> bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort. When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed to 
> work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes 
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can apply 
> the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting the 
> two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that did 
> not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side made 
> no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right, just 
> not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller 
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice as 
> the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 10:57:24 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 09:57:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
Message-ID: <8D04A195-3C98-41A0-B79E-8E83C8674D8E@bnj.com>

You've got me pretty confused here. You've set up a two-MC system and  
you have proportioning valves on it? What are they proportioning?
Most folks that do two MC brakes do the proportioning with a balance  
bar.  A proportioning valve reduces downstream pressure. In a single  
MC system so you can put it between the front and rear systems to have  
less pressure applied to the rear cylinder than the front. I don't  
know what they would be used for in a two mc system, and I assume  
that's your problem.

Placing a proportioning valve in the rear circuit only generally does  
work since it reduces the pressure at the rear brakes, but it gives a  
hard pedal. You'd be better off getting rid of the proportioning  
valves entirely and using a balance bar. I'm assuming you feed the  
front from one MC and the rear from the other. If this isn't the case,  
then do.
On May 20, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Robert D. MacKenzie wrote:

> I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl  
> installation I singley
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct  
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be  
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up  
> new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the  
> existing brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The  
> front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried  
> to bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort.  
> When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by  
> themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal  
> effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed  
> to work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind  
> again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes  
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can  
> apply the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does  
> not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting  
> the two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that  
> did not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side  
> made no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right,  
> just not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller  
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice  
> as the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From S.Janzen at comcast.net  Tue May 20 10:56:38 2008
From: S.Janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Pedistal studs
References: <002d01c8ba18$cba6d930$adc464d0@keng>
	<BAY123-W1361182ADA165588C455E3BAC40@phx.gbl>
	<483236A0.4040809@dfn.com>
	<005801c8ba22$a323dcb0$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>
	<8cbd782d0805200842s3ef6648cg6b8cccc98818c2b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004701c8ba9a$78b35e10$6601a8c0@vefadvisors.com>

stock diameter.  I just called up ARP and told them the total length i needed
and thread.  They do not make a set specifically for rocker pedestals for this
car, so it is just some of their usual high quality hardware.  I had been
using aircraft grade washers and nuts but those are far softer than the ARP
stuff I now have.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Chuck Arnold
  To: Scott Janzen
  Cc: mdporter at dfn.com ; fot at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:42 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


  Michel,
  Michael,
  I will supply some pedestals if you will bore them and let me know the stud
diameter -- suggest we find a stock ARP stud/washer/bolts  to use if possible.
This would be tested in a high compression, high lift long duration cam, PI
TR6 race car.

  Scott -- what ARP stud number?  Stock diameter?

  chuck


  On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:38 PM, Scott Janzen <S.Janzen at comcast.net> wrote:

    Goodparts makes a beffy replacement TR6/Gt6 pedestal with its roller
rocker
    setup.  Not a plug - never used it, but I have had my stock pedestals egg
    out a bit under the nuts /washers.  I now have some high quality studs
and
    hardened washers and nuts from ARP.

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
    To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
    Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:25 PM
    Subject: Re: [Fot] Pedistal studs


    > marty sukey wrote:
    >> Ken,Jack, all. Is this a problem specific the the TR4 engine or is
this
    >> something the TR6 and Spitfire folks should keep in mind?
    >>
    >>
    >
    > The TR6/GT6 engines have the rocker shaft supports at the ends of the
    > shaft, so that's a plus.  Nevertheless, the pedestal studs are a bit
    > wimpy.  One of the things I've been thinking about is the tendency of
    > the pedestals to walk back and forth with increasing valve spring
    > pressure.  As one adds stiffness into the valve train--stronger and
    > stiffer pushrods, stronger rockers, etc., there's usually little done
to
    > the pedestal studs, and that means the weakest part of the valve train
    > is the one to flex.
    >
    >
    > In looking at the pedestals, it's apparent that they are mostly hollow,
    > with a collar cast into the tops, which fits somewhat loosely around
the
    > stud. That means the pedestal, under load, can sort of squirm
underneath
    > the nut and washer, which might be one of the reasons for the nuts
    > loosening up.
    >
    >
    > What I'm thinking about doing is boring that collar out to a slightly
    > larger size, enlarging the stud threaded bores in the head, then
    > installing a larger stud that fits snugly inside the pedestal hole.
    > That also allows larger nuts, and considerably more applied tension to
    > hold the pedestals in place.   I think that milling the feet of the
    > pedestals perfectly flat and 90 deg. to the stud holes will help a bit,
    > since they seem to come from the factory without precise finishing and
    > over time may deform a bit and allow the pedestal to rock back and
forth
    > under load.
    >
    >
    > Cheers.
    >
    > --
    >
    >
    > Michael Porter
    > Roswell, NM
    >
    >
    > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
    > distance....
    > _______________________________________________
    > http://www.team.net/donate.html
    >
    > Fot mailing list
    > Fot at autox.team.net
    > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
    >

    > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net

    _______________________________________________
    http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Fot mailing list
    Fot at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

    You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com




  --
  Chuck Arnold


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Tue May 20 13:53:27 2008
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (colordog.1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 19:53:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Have you guys seen this site:

www.bringatrailer.com

It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.

Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 14:20:40 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 13:20:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
In-Reply-To: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <251112540-1211313280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-719362852-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <A577C633-59E3-4AB1-8A9F-F9C544D4B4A7@bnj.com>

Neat website, and a great example of the new trend in blogs--making  
money by having attractive content, mostly user-provided, and having  
lots of served advertising on the site that matches the interests of  
any reader. Mark, you should take a good hard look at how this is  
done. It generally takes multiple sites to make this work as a living,  
but I know of people that don't do anything else, and they make a  
darned good paycheck.

Bill


On May 20, 2008, at 12:53 PM, colordog.1 at earthlink.net wrote:

> Have you guys seen this site:
>
> www.bringatrailer.com
>
> It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.
>
> Steve
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue May 20 14:23:27 2008
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 15:23:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <7259605.1585311211315008373.JavaMail.root@vms070.mailsrvcs.net>

I look at it every day, right after I check my bank balance.

Kurt O.

>From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>Date: 2008/05/20 Tue PM 02:53:27 CDT
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer

>Have you guys seen this site:
>
>www.bringatrailer.com
>
>It's a collection of interesting cars for sale.
>
>Steve
>Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>_______________________________________________
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Fot mailing list
>Fot at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
>You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net


From westerneagleracing at att.net  Tue May 20 15:24:27 2008
From: westerneagleracing at att.net (westerneagleracing at att.net)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 21:24:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>

Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA event at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing 
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: -------------- 


> I look at it every day, right after I check my bank balance. 
> 
> Kurt O. 
> 
> >From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net 
> >Date: 2008/05/20 Tue PM 02:53:27 CDT 
> >To: fot at autox.team.net 
> >Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer 
> 
> >Have you guys seen this site: 
> > 
> >www.bringatrailer.com 
> > 
> >It's a collection of interesting cars for sale. 
> > 
> >Steve 
> >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile 
> >_______________________________________________ 
> >http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> > 
> >Fot mailing list 
> >Fot at autox.team.net 
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
> > 
> >You are subscribed as koblinger at verizon.net 
> _______________________________________________ 
> http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> Fot mailing list 
> Fot at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
> 
> You are subscribed as westerneagleracing at att.net 


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Tue May 20 15:42:36 2008
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 17:42:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
In-Reply-To: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
References: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
Message-ID: <006a01c8bac2$6bb8bcf0$6501a8c0@richardiipc>

The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would have
said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml

Richard  





Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does
anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA event
at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing 
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------

@bellsouth.net


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Tue May 20 18:18:55 2008
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 20:18:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008
Message-ID: <000c01c8bad8$432f8870$6601a8c0@Elliott>

Last weekend was the hillclimb.  On page 6 of the photos, there's a nice Peerless.  Might be Nigel Cluey.

http://photos.psy-online.co.uk/Prescott_08/


From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed May 21 05:47:29 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:47:29 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008
References: <000c01c8bad8$432f8870$6601a8c0@Elliott>
Message-ID: <001d01c8bb38$73855620$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Congrats to Standard-Triumph Forum in organising the event. Didn't go to Brooklands myself in the 
two or three (?) preceding years, so I guess anything is a compromise. At Prescott, they managed to 
stage a sort of static car show, though the hill climb obviously dominated. Isn't that mostly why we 
own these cars? Also, the use of the nearby steam railway the previous day as a road run and 
barbeque location was a good use of local resources. However, having seen many Standard-Triumph days 
myself - and all of them at Gaydon where there was no driving available, I was disappointed to see 
so few cars, in relative terms. I think everyone who turned up 'had several go's at the hill' but 
what saddened me was the absence of those who didn't want to drive but were happy to drive their 
cars to the event, exhibit them and meet their friends. As a result, there were lots of cars and 
people I failed to see.

 For that reason, Prescott was very disappointing for me and many Standard and Triumph cars (other 
than two seaters) were sadly conspicuous by their absence. I was there with the Triumph 
Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive Spitfire Raffle Prize which raised over US$500 in ticket sales on the 
Sunday - and thanks, Don for buying one. Others on FoT can see pix of the car in question at 
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?p=86  I'll be at next year's event but I DO hope we get a better 
turnout of the *complete* model range as a whole and not see it dominated by two seaters. After all, 
they only accounted for about 25% of total output in the post 1946 years. Thank goodness The 
Standard Motor Club was there with some truly stunning examples of cars built between 1924 and 1938.

Jonmac


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Elliott" <58tr3a at videotron.ca>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Prescott Hill Climb UK May 2008


> Last weekend was the hillclimb.  On page 6 of the photos, there's a nice Peerless.  Might be Nigel 
> Cluey.
>
> http://photos.psy-online.co.uk/Prescott_08/
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com 


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 20 11:55:27 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 10:55:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <002601c8baa0$c1976f80$44c64e80$@aero>
References: <000d01c8ba92$f8f338a0$ead9a9e0$@net>
	<8D04A195-3C98-41A0-B79E-8E83C8674D8E@bnj.com>
	<002601c8baa0$c1976f80$44c64e80$@aero>
Message-ID: <5E35D661-1E54-401C-9073-456B5FFE3009@bnj.com>

I don't really see how they could, or if they did, how they could work
effectively. Proportioning valves are basically a pressure reducer
that works dynamically, as you increase the pressure on the input side
you get a proportionate increase on the output side, but it's still
lower. That works okay in a single circuit, but it seems to me that it
wouldn't work well in a two-mc system. You'd have to press like hell
on the brakes, and a little mis-adjustment would give you no brakes at
all--not what I'd be shooting for. I don't like proportioning valves
at all.

You can make a balance bar by simply building a set of brackets with
different ratios for the attachment points. Peyote had a setup like
that which worked fine for many years. I added an adjustable bar and
gained nothing from it--the bracket approach works just as well if the
car is not super-sensitive to brake bias.


On May 20, 2008, at 10:41 AM, Robert MacKenzie wrote:

> Bill;
>
> Thanx for the help! I am equally confused.
>
> I think the valves were intended to take the place of a balance bar
> as the pistons are actuated be a single straight bracket attached to
> the brake pedal.  The fabrication of the mounting bracket is very
> good and I assumed it would all work together.  I looked at balance
> bars but cant find one that will work on a 2 inch center I now
> have.  Tilton sells a 2.5 inch balance bar and said it can be
> trimmed but I then loose most of the adjustment range.  I may have
> to go that route.
>
> Robert
>
>
> From: Bill Babcock [mailto:Billb at bnj.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 11:57 AM
> To: dodo at texas.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
>
> You've got me pretty confused here. You've set up a two-MC system
> and you have proportioning valves on it? What are they proportioning?
> Most folks that do two MC brakes do the proportioning with a balance
> bar.  A proportioning valve reduces downstream pressure. In a single
> MC system so you can put it between the front and rear systems to
> have less pressure applied to the rear cylinder than the front. I
> don't know what they would be used for in a two mc system, and I
> assume that's your problem.
>
> Placing a proportioning valve in the rear circuit only generally
> does work since it reduces the pressure at the rear brakes, but it
> gives a hard pedal. You'd be better off getting rid of the
> proportioning valves entirely and using a balance bar. I'm assuming
> you feed the front from one MC and the rear from the other. If this
> isn't the case, then do.
> On May 20, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Robert D. MacKenzie wrote:
>
>
> I have having some issues with a Tilton dual brake master cyl
> installation I singley
> started over the weekend on my Spitfire Racer
>
> I bought two used 1 inch Tilton masters with all the correct
> brackets/mounts
> with remote reservoirs plus two Wilwood proportioning valves to be
> installed
> on my Mk1 spitfire, replacing the original single circuit master.
>
> The cylinders were rebuilt using the correct Tilton kits. I made up
> new
> lines from the master outlets to the valves and then into the
> existing brake
> lines.
> Everything went well until the final bleeding process began.
>
> The 1st time I tried to bleed the front first then the back.  The
> front
> brakes felt  fine with good travel and pedal feel. But when I tried
> to bleed
> the backs the system would bind and I had a very high pedal effort.
> When I
> blend the backs with the fronts open they worked fine by
> themselves.  When
> everything was closed the system will bind with very high pedal
> effort but
> no brakes.  Not good.
>
> I then tried bleeding both systems at the same time, and that seemed
> to work
> until I closed off all the speed bleeders and the system would bind
> again.
>
> I believe that the master cyl providing pressure to the front brakes
> caused
> the pistons to press the calipers closed before the rear ones can
> apply the
> rear brakes.  Making adjustments to the proportioning valves does
> not seem
> to make any changes.  I also tried adjusting the bracket connecting
> the two
> pistons to the pedal to push one in earlier than the other but that
> did not
> make a difference. Swapping the cylinders or the valves side to side
> made no
> difference.  I believe each individual component is working right,
> just not
> together.
>
> Before I go much further I have some basic questions:
>
> Are two 1 inch masters the way to go?   Do I need to run a smaller
> cylinder
> on one side or the other?   Do I need two valves or will one suffice
> as the
> other will always be open?
>
> Any help/advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com
>
> Bill Babcock
> Babcock & Jenkins
> Billb at bnj.com
> 503.936.7660
> www.bnj.com
>
>
>

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From d.hesse at charter.net  Wed May 21 10:39:01 2008
From: d.hesse at charter.net (d.hesse at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 9:39:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
Message-ID: <20080521123901.TM7C4.177663.root@fepweb05>

I'm not sure of the model, but Chris Beebe here in Madison, WI races what I believe is a Starliner Coupe with SVRA, VSCDA, etc. The car was supposedly run at one time in the Carrera Panamamericana. Chris runs Beebe Builds and Foreign Car Specialists and also races Loti.
Dave

---- Richard Taylor <tarch at bellsouth.net> wrote:

=============
The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would have
said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml

Richard





Great website. Thanks for sharing. Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, does
anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe. There was one at the HMSA event
at Laguna. One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
does make it eligible for a lot of events.
Ron Jacobs
Western Eagle Racing
-------------- Original message from <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------

@bellsouth.net
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You are subscribed as d.hesse at charter.net


From REK46 at aol.com  Wed May 21 10:53:12 2008
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:53:12 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Dual Tilton Brake Masters on MK1 Spitfire
Message-ID: <ccd.346488a7.3565ad78@aol.com>

I agree with Bill....I tried the prop valve, it just limited rear brakes and 
put more work on the frts which then will fade.....use the dbl MC at 
5/8"...and if you want to , put a adj bal bar cable to set them up from 
cockpit.....best thing I ever did on the spit


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing 
burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed May 21 11:28:44 2008
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 13:28:44 EDT
Subject: [Fot] What'd ya think?
Message-ID: <bbb.29ca9d43.3565b5cc@aol.com>

Amici...

Bob Wismer and I continue to tune our TORNADO TALISMAN, a fresh restoration.  
It has an English Ford drive train, but lots of TRIUMPH parts, which look to 
be GT6, SPITFIRE, or perhaps and in particular HERALD.

Right now we are not happy with the rear end ratio.  We are looking to 
replace it with something in the 3.7 to 3.9 range.  We have a second pumpkin.  Cast 
into the right side (facing the) pinion housing is LEYS and below it GD4.  The 
left side (as facing the housing) is 04984, and stamped on the bottom is SGA 
295.  Cast into the gear sump housing is STANPART P8.  It is further stamped 
with 304983.

Any help out there with what we might have, what will fit in it, and where we 
could get it?

Bill Dentinger
 


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Wed May 21 11:54:17 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:54:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Bring a trailer
References: <052020082124.28563.4833418B0005F58900006F9322193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF990E04D2069D@att.net>
	<006a01c8bac2$6bb8bcf0$6501a8c0@richardiipc>
Message-ID: <001b01c8bb6b$b1ab7dc0$a26a0143@your55e5f9e3d2>

actually,  Bob Bourke penned the '53 stude cpe and
hardtops.  He worked for R.L. at the time.
Several years ago we towed a Stude based sports racer
the Excalibur Hawk to the Eyes on the Classics show at
the Edsel Ford Estate.   Stude and Porsche were the
featured marques and Bourke was there getting a lifetime
achievement award.  Lots of studes there including a 200
mph stude powered Avanti and a Stude Indy car circa '33.


art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Taylor" <tarch at bellsouth.net>
To: <westerneagleracing at att.net>; <koblinger at verizon.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Bring a trailer


> The 1953 Starliner Coupe was designed by Raymond Lowey. As Keats would 
> have
> said, "That's all ye know of design and all ye need to know."
>
> http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/your_garage/cars/7053.shtml
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
> Great website.  Thanks for sharing.  Along the lines of the 1950 Ford, 
> does
> anyone know of a 53 or 54 Studebaker coupe.  There was one at the HMSA 
> event
> at Laguna.  One ran in the Mille (finished 72 out of 72 I am told)but it
> does make it eligible for a lot of events.
> Ron Jacobs
> Western Eagle Racing
> -------------- Original message from 
> <koblinger at verizon.net>: --------------
>
> @bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1456 - Release Date: 
> 5/20/2008 6:45 AM


From dave at microworks.net  Wed May 21 16:51:12 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:51:12 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: TR3 parts
Message-ID: <20080521225132.MJVL1277.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

Anybody have a lead for this guy?


>Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
>From: MICHAEL PAVLIK <mepavlik at yahoo.com>
>Subject: TR3 parts
>
>Dave, I do not remember how to add to the classified in the forum. I 
>am looking for TR3 fiberglass body parts, front apron and all 4 
>fenders. Anyone have any leads?  Mike Pavlik


From m-syork at comcast.net  Sun May 25 10:10:01 2008
From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 09:10:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SS brake lines and fittings
Message-ID: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>

Amici, Input please:

I have a friend who has owned a Cessna for years; he has offered to make
stainless brake lines for my TR3 racer. He would use 37 deg single flares
and b-nuts on all the fittings. I read through most of the threads on
hydraulic lines (from about a year ago) last night and most of you think 37
single flare is acceptable. Are there any issues with this method, any
better, easier ways? It looks like the standard b-nut (male to male)
fittings will thread right into the brake cylinder.

I've seen his work; it's almost too pretty for the race car.

What does everyone think?

Thanks in advance

Mark


From Billb at bnj.com  Sun May 25 14:37:09 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 13:37:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SS brake lines and fittings
In-Reply-To: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
References: <003501c8be81$c9e5fa50$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
Message-ID: <70736E83-11AB-4266-AA97-77D72EDCA45F@bnj.com>

Not just acceptable--the only way to go.
On May 25, 2008, at 9:10 AM, Mark York wrote:

> Amici, Input please:
>
> I have a friend who has owned a Cessna for years; he has offered to  
> make
> stainless brake lines for my TR3 racer. He would use 37 deg single  
> flares
> and b-nuts on all the fittings. I read through most of the threads on
> hydraulic lines (from about a year ago) last night and most of you  
> think 37
> single flare is acceptable. Are there any issues with this method, any
> better, easier ways? It looks like the standard b-nut (male to male)
> fittings will thread right into the brake cylinder.
>
> I've seen his work; it's almost too pretty for the race car.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun May 25 18:59:06 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 20:59:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Isky cam
Message-ID: <c81.29521c95.356b655a@aol.com>

Amici, can anybody supply a cam card, details or even opinions on a 1990  
Isky Z66+10 cam for a six cylinder?  I've got one virtually brand new but  it 
doesn't seem all that hot a cam from the catalog numbers.  Any idea what  lift 
the checking numbers were quoted for?
 
Not surprisingly, Isky can't be bothered...



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun May 25 19:11:12 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:11:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
Message-ID: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>

Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun May 25 19:12:51 2008
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:12:51 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
Message-ID: <ca7.289b1303.356b6893@aol.com>

Jeez Marty, that's awful!  How bad is it?  Are you OK?   Other than a broken 
heart?



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun May 25 19:18:16 2008
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 18:18:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601c8bece$60972e00$0802a8c0@Bud>

I'm very sorry to hear that......It may be difficult for you to say now, 
..but....move forward....who knows what The Gang can round up for you
Racer Bud..spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 6:11 PM
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey


> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the 
> TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as budscars at comcast.net 


From spitfiresuz at 141.com  Sun May 25 19:16:42 2008
From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 20:16:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483A0F7A.1010506@141.com>

Where were you autocrossing that let you run into a light pole?  Are you 
okay????  Any way to save the 6?

Susan    :)


marty sukey wrote:
> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
> http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
> You are subscribed as spitfiresuz at 141.com
>
>
>
>   

-- 
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"


From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun May 25 19:52:03 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 19:52:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <483A17C3.2060902@dfn.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
> is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
>   

Bummer. They don't move much, do they?

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun May 25 20:08:58 2008
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIKEEJCLAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

Tough break, sorry to hear about it.

Be sure to salvage those good looking Mags though.

Ken Gano


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
marty sukey
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 8:11 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey

Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(

Marty

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 25 21:07:09 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 22:07:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rough day for Team sukey
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W568060CCFC781234FC2401BAC20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080526030656.8A306187874@autox.team.net>

Wow.  My heart bleeds for you.  I hope you find a way to come back from that.

- Tony

At 08:11 PM 5/25/2008, marty sukey wrote:
>Well today I figured out a way to make autocrossing a contact sport. the TR6
>is no more. Old car vs light pole at about 40 mph, old car lost :(
>
>Marty


From m-syork at comcast.net  Mon May 26 21:33:08 2008
From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 20:33:08 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More brake line questions
Message-ID: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>

Amici

More TR3 brake questions: do the Girling master brake and clutch cylinders
use BSP pipe thread? What standard does the 37 deg aircraft hardware follow
(is it AN)? Is there an adapter available to use the 37 deg b-nuts on the
master cylinders?

Thanks in advance

Mark 


From Billb at bnj.com  Tue May 27 01:06:07 2008
From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 00:06:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] More brake line questions
In-Reply-To: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
References: <002701c8bfaa$62183bc0$c81a794c@markv8zno7deim>
Message-ID: <10B39B99-6DBB-4651-B0AC-BF141BB6E8E3@bnj.com>

I suggest you search the archives of FOT, this was all discussed at  
length. It's a little challenging to get the master cylinder adapters  
to make 37 degree work, but they are out there. I can't testify to the  
thread on Girlings since I don't use them, but I doubt it's pipe  
thread. Generally brake parts have a flare at the end of the hole and  
matching one in the union that threads into it.

Most of the stuff I used came from aircraft spruce. As I recall, you  
can use 37 degree flares with a 45 degree male adapter as long as you  
use the tube sleeve to keep the flare stable. 37 degrees is the AN  
standard. As I recall, the flare nuts are AN 818 and the sleeves are  
AN 819. I think the AN832 bulkhead unions (steel, not aluminum) are  
what I used for my Tilton master cylinders.

The reason for using 37 degree bits is that the flare seals by  
stretching rather than by being compressed (and hardened). The tube  
sleeve applies pressure evenly on the flare and makes it seal better  
than 45 degree SAE bits.

There's also an article on the dimebank garage: http://www.dimebank.com/tech/BrakePlumbing.html

On May 26, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Mark York wrote:

> Amici
>
> More TR3 brake questions: do the Girling master brake and clutch  
> cylinders
> use BSP pipe thread? What standard does the 37 deg aircraft hardware  
> follow
> (is it AN)? Is there an adapter available to use the 37 deg b-nuts  
> on the
> master cylinders?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com

Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb at bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com


From hottr6 at hotmail.com  Tue May 27 06:08:03 2008
From: hottr6 at hotmail.com (Shane Ingate)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 08:08:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Isky cam
Message-ID: <BLU127-W408421CCCA96B5D7A5C0758CBD0@phx.gbl>

Steve,

> can anybody supply a cam card, details or even opinions on a 1990
> Isky Z66+10 cam for a six cylinder?

Details on this cam (and others) can be found at
http://triumph.hottr6.com/tr6cams.html

Shane Ingate in NM

Update on the Garagemahal: Electrical work in, and stucco going on this
week.

_________________________________________________________________
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From list at mackenzie.aero  Tue May 27 08:38:12 2008
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 09:38:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] OT: Volvo parts needed
Message-ID: <005b01c8c007$4aecdc00$e0c69400$@aero>

Sorry for the off topic post but I have a friend in Chile who just built a
Road Racing Volvo 142 and is looking to up-grade the diff.

Can anyone recommend a source for a DANA LSD for a 1974  142 model with a
B20E engine and a M 45 gearbox?

Used, new anything will work.

Thanx!

Robert MacKenzie
robert at mackenzie.aero


From vintage.racer at comcast.net  Wed May 28 08:43:56 2008
From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (Gary Horstkorta)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 07:43:56 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Ken Kirk
Message-ID: <000301c8c0d1$4224b960$c66e2c20$@racer@comcast.net>

Ken:

 

Will you contact me off line at vintage.racer at comcast.net.  Thanks

 

Gary Horstkorta


From ofbracing at nefcom.net  Wed May 28 15:21:03 2008
From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 17:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Distributor help
Message-ID: <003e01c8c108$bceb8570$2001a8c0@Dell5100Laptop>

I use a modified '79 Honda Accord distributor in my TR4 and I'm hoping
that there might be an electronic distributor expert on the lists who
can tell me if I'm doing a repair correctly.  During the last outing at
VIR my distributor quit, and had zero resistance at the internal pickup
coil (the two leads from the dizzy that go to the ignition box).  I
replaced it with a spare distributor and finished the weekend but now I
need to repair the broken unit.  Since I know the pickup coil was bad
(no resistance vs 372 ohms resistance on the good spare), I ordered a
replacement pickup coil from Autozone that matches perfectly except the
resistance on the new coil is 750 ohms, almost double what's in the
working spare.  According to everything I can find on the internet, 750
is correct resistance for that distributor, but since its double what's
in the other one I'm curious/concerned about whether I have the right
one.  Or, the real question might be "Does the resistance of the pickup
coil really matter?"  Any help will be appreciated. I hate to put it in
the car and burn out the new $50 pickup coil because it's the wrong one.
Thanks, Don

 


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From stutzmans at comcast.net  Wed May 28 17:16:14 2008
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzman)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 19:16:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <001201c8c118$d3703060$c70aa8c0@D9DGQM31>

Can anybody who is doing the Gold Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce Stutzman


From GRMTim at aol.com  Thu May 29 08:40:14 2008
From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 10:40:14 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <d22.27de05c2.35701a4e@aol.com>

I needed all my passes, but glad to see some of the gang is going. Who else 
is going to the Gold Cup?

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040

 Can anybody who is doing the Gold Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce Stutzman



**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From dave at microworks.net  Thu May 29 09:10:42 2008
From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 08:10:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: [WtW] GT Racer
Message-ID: <20080529151437.JXCJ11242.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>

 From the Wheel-2-wheel list...


>I was chatting with a fellow in England this morning and he 
>mentioned a HD TV show called GT Racer. It's about vintage racing on 
>the great tracks. I search for and found this website 
>http://www.cargofilm-releasing.com/gtracer.html
>
>Does anyone know if it's available in the USA?


From LOddTR at aol.com  Thu May 29 18:36:35 2008
From: LOddTR at aol.com (LOddTR at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 20:36:35 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Gold Cup
Message-ID: <cfd.34aa36fb.3570a613@aol.com>

Dean Tetterton will be there with his TR3, Rob Deanes with his TR4 and  I 
with R2D250.
 
Leo Oddi
 
 
In a message dated 5/29/2008 10:41:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
GRMTim at aol.com writes:

I needed  all my passes, but glad to see some of the gang is going. Who else 
is  going to the Gold Cup?

Tim Suddard
Publisher; Classic  Motorsports
and Grassroots Motorsports  magazines
www.classicmotorsports.net
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
Phone:  (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040

Can anybody who is doing the Gold  Cup at VIR spare 2 crew passes forEd Major
and me (WPTA guys)?
Bruce  Stutzman



**************
Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
Fot  mailing  list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

You  are subscribed as  loddtr at aol.com





**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


From lunkercars at earthlink.net  Fri May 30 10:36:14 2008
From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 10:36:14 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
Message-ID: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>

Big thanks to all who responded to my post "Looking for a racer" of  
awhile back. And especially to Bob Miller who's tip led to the  
purchase of Mike Alex's TR4 from the Denver area.
My friend Bill Swope brought the car back to Albuquerque last week  
and I got a look - very nicely prepared TR4 that looks to have been a  
race car all it's life. Bill is still going thru the reams of  
documents that came with the car, but there are indications that it  
may have been a Group 44 car at one time. Lots of neat mods. that  
I'll get into later. It is white with green #06 as it came from  
Connecticut a few years back. Prior to that it may have been orange w/ 
yellow [#8?] also in the Connecticut area. Has a "Canada" decal on  
the dash, the significance of which is not yet known. It is not what  
I envisioned as a "drive to the track racer" but I guess Bill has a  
more expansive definition of that than I... His maiden voyage was  
down the street of his quiet neighborhood right past a motorcycle cop  
writing someone else a ticket. Bill parked, got out, walked up to the  
cop and said "am I in trouble? I'll go get the trailer if you want"  
Thus disarmed, the officer just told him to get it home! I've never  
quite had such luck. Sounds just right for the FoT to me!
Bill has now come full circle - his first race car was a TR4 back in  
'63. His current racing stable includes a Beach/Lotus SR, a couple  
Brabham FA's and wife Janice's 356 DP and decades of club racing.  
Time to get him on the list. Therefor my nomination of Bill Swope  
[bswope959 at msn.com] to the FoT. With any luck we might even get him  
[& Janice] to Watkins Glen. How 'bout a second Henry?
Thanks again,
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM

P.S. Where can I send a few $$ to help keep our wonderful FoT going?


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 30 10:58:43 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 12:58:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
In-Reply-To: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>
References: <B893CA36-689F-45DD-AA15-36FFBB9ECF0A@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805301257210.31545@isis.mit.edu>

SECOND

I saw that car for sale about 6 years or so ago. Looked like a pretty nice 
car then.

I LOVE the cop story. Fantastic - Bill has brass ones. Def. FOT material.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From wgrosenbach at juno.com  Fri May 30 17:46:21 2008
From: wgrosenbach at juno.com (William G Rosenbach)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 17:46:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Big thanks & a nomination
Message-ID: <20080530.174622.1344.2.wgrosenbach@juno.com>

I support that nomination as well.
Bill
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mKiv8uBdXBgMBoEIHauS9hp2jU4f51GdoJv6l0UsBBL0ljs/


From rblake36 at yahoo.com  Sat May 31 21:09:16 2008
From: rblake36 at yahoo.com (Robert Blake)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:09:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4a on ebay
Message-ID: <182567.58610.qm@web58511.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know the history of this car?  I have tried to contact the owner to no avail.
   
  Thanks


From kaskas at cox.net  Sat May 31 23:28:47 2008
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 22:28:47 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT-6 car
Message-ID: <013f01c8c3a8$5dd2d780$3a16c548@RW>

I'v e got a line on a pretty nice looking GT6 car that has been sitting for
about 12 years, has 41,000 miles and has rusted sills and floors but otherwise
looks pretty good.  Any interest.  No price YET, but looking into it. Mid-
west location.