[Fot] webbers 40 dcoe

[Rob]

I have used the plastic floats for 7 years with good results.
On needle and seat inspection  one of them has a nasty nick in it and needs 
replacement
Also on that same carb the float tang was not centered on the spring ball of 
the needle  The float would land hard on the out side of the ball socket 
Its pretty wild how it can move that much over a season The setting of 7mill 
closed and 20 mill on the open held true on the other carbs. But they are 
all leaking at the pump jet
. With the geometry of this float I may replace it simply because I can't 
seem to bend it into the correct position to land on the ball and still meet 
the 7 mil (closed clearance) off the top  cover
  The Webber tuning manual from Overseas auto subjects filling the bowls 
with light oil.What would be the simplest way to remove the oil? Could the 
bulk of the oil be removed with a syringe after removing the main jet? Still 
it may still be a smoky start up  will the plugs fowl ?    rob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <BillDentin at aol.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] webbers 40 dcoe


> Interesting observations and not a word there I would dispute.  I  simply
> went to the plastic floats and never looked back.  Has anyone had a 
> failure with
> the plastic?
>
>
>
>
> Steve...I think  you know that we have had more than our fair share of 
> float
> problems these past  few years.  In fact, Bob Wismer had more float issues
> down in Sebring this  past week end.  We agree with the suggested modern 
> fuel
> additive issues you  mentioned, but also we're convinced 'long tows' with 
> empty
> fuel bowls are a  contributing factor.  For what it is worth, we believe 
> fuel
> evaporates  quickly from the fuel bowel and the floats bounce/rub on the 
> post
> during long  tows.  Bob has taken to ensuring the fuel bowls are full 
> before he
> starts  any long tow.  He hit some 'nasty winter' weather in route from 
> our
> shop in  Wisconsin to Florida.  He got stuck over twenty-four hours in
> Indianapolis  during a snow storm.  Maybe he didn't load the bowls before 
> starting out
> again, but he had another failure at Sebring.
>
> Two more comments.
>
> ONE, I bought my last replacement floats directly from Joe Curo (sp?), 
> the
> SU specialist out east.  Might be too early to leap to a conclusion,  but 
> I've
> had no failures with his since.  The ones I purchased from Moss,  Roadster
> Factory, Victoria British, etc., all appear to come from the same  source. 
> The
> ones from Joe are distinctive (packaging, special markings,  etc.).
>
> TWO, across the pond, Bill Woodhouse was the founder of English  Specials
> Tornado Cars, and built the Talisman, Typhoon, and Thunder Bolt we  race. 
> He
> recently sent me an article that suggests there is an issue with  modern 
> solder
> (no lead), and a reaction when using it to repair floats with old  solder
> containing lead.  It seems there is a reaction, and failure.   Not sure 
> how that
> fits in the mix, but it might explain why we've not had good  luck with 
> the ones
> we've repaired ourselves.
>
> Bill  Dentinger
>
> PS...Did you know?  Bob Wismer told me that the hotel  rooms with a view 
> in
> Indianapolis are cheaper?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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