[Fot] SU H6 rebuilding four questions... drip drip drip

Greg & Alison Blake ablake2 at austin.rr.com
Mon Oct 22 21:22:31 MDT 2007


Anyone try using the Hatachi built HS6 from a Datsun on a TR motor?  I
loved the ones I had on my Z.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+ablake2=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+ablake2=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Stutzman
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 8:08 PM
To: Steve Belfer; Friends of Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] SU H6 rebuilding four questions... drip drip drip

leaking H6 carbs is one of the main reasons why many of us are using HS6

carbs.
I am reluctant to even rebuild H6's for friends because they are
probably 
going to leak.
Dave hagenbuck at TRF has O rings to replace the cork gland washers that
he 
says work.
The jet bearing is not replaced when they are rebuilt; it is not part of
the 
rebuild kit.  It can get out of round by years of the jet rubbing
against it 
when the choke is pulled on and off.  If this has happened the cork
washer 
won't seal.
Bruce

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Belfer" <colordog.1 at earthlink.net>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] SU H6 rebuilding four questions... drip drip drip


> After careful cleaning and rebuilding of my race SU carbs, the rear
carb
> slowly drips blue racing fuel.  I'm actually at a better point now
than I 
> was
> before when both of them were drooling gasoline.  I've rebuilt them
twice 
> on
> the bench and once in the car.  :)   I suspect the problem lies with
the 
> small
> cork "jet gland seals" that get compressed between the cupped washers.

> I've
> soaked these little guys in oil overnight to soften them up but
perhaps my
> rebuild kits are too old and they have dried out too much.  There's a 
> "leak
> proof" o-ring replacement from Moss, are these any good?
>
> Here are my four questions:
>
> 1, How tight should I go with the jet locking nut?  Until the upper 
> (outer)
> jet bearing is aligned with the bridge?  As I tighten it, a tan cork
seal 
> gets
> compressed.
>
> 2,  The jet-gland gaskets that I described above were compressed into 
> tight
> little doughnut shapes when I took the old ones out.  The new ones
don't 
> seem
> to compress very much and I think they're the cause of my leak.  Will
they
> seal better over time as they get soaked with gas and the spring keeps
> smooshing them?
>
> 3, The jet adjusting nut at the bottom hangs up on the spring and
causes 
> the
> jet bearing to turn when I try to tighten the nut.  I added a thin
washer
> between the nut and the bottom of the spring.  Is this okay?
>
> 4. All the adjustment procedures are for a 500rpm stock idle.  My race
car
> won't do that.  More like 1200rpm.  Can I synchronise the carbs and
adjust 
> the
> mixture at a high idle?
>
>
> Thanks gang.
>
> ~Steve
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