[Fot] SU H6 rebuilding four questions... drip drip drip

[Steve Belfer]

After careful cleaning and rebuilding of my race SU carbs, the rear carb
slowly drips blue racing fuel.  I'm actually at a better point now than I was
before when both of them were drooling gasoline.  I've rebuilt them twice on
the bench and once in the car.  :)   I suspect the problem lies with the small
cork "jet gland seals" that get compressed between the cupped washers.  I've
soaked these little guys in oil overnight to soften them up but perhaps my
rebuild kits are too old and they have dried out too much.  There's a "leak
proof" o-ring replacement from Moss, are these any good?

Here are my four questions:

1, How tight should I go with the jet locking nut?  Until the upper (outer)
jet bearing is aligned with the bridge?  As I tighten it, a tan cork seal gets
compressed.

2,  The jet-gland gaskets that I described above were compressed into tight
little doughnut shapes when I took the old ones out.  The new ones don't seem
to compress very much and I think they're the cause of my leak.  Will they
seal better over time as they get soaked with gas and the spring keeps
smooshing them?

3, The jet adjusting nut at the bottom hangs up on the spring and causes the
jet bearing to turn when I try to tighten the nut.  I added a thin washer
between the nut and the bottom of the spring.  Is this okay?

4. All the adjustment procedures are for a 500rpm stock idle.  My race car
won't do that.  More like 1200rpm.  Can I synchronise the carbs and adjust the
mixture at a high idle?


Thanks gang.

~Steve