[Fot] TR4 Rear Hub Removal

Bill Babcock billb at bnj.com
Sat Mar 10 23:16:25 MST 2007


Personally I like the big bang method. I've never failed to
disassemble a hub, but you do have to watch your toes. I don't have
no stinking tool, just a press and a BFH (big .. hammer)
Bill Babcock
billb at bnj.com
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On Mar 10, 2007, at 3:40 PM, Jim Prettyleaf wrote:

>   When British Leyland dealers were still around one of the
> dealerships broke the end off of one of the stub axles for my TR-6
> when attempting to use the factory approved tool recommended for
> disassembling the rear hubs.  As you can guess I was rather upset
> when the Triumph dealer told me that it was my fault for improperly
> servicing the car and that I would need to pay for the new stub
> axle.  My opinion was that the dumb-bells in his service department
> could not decide when to give up and look for a better method, and
> that the dealer should buy the new axle if I could find a way to
> take them apart.  This all happened so long ago that I can't recall
> how I was finally referred to the local expert who knew how to take
> the TR-6 hubs apart without breaking them; perhaps it was one of my
> professors at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo who knew this Guru.
>
>   According to the local expert the factory tool is not stiff
> enough, flexes under pressure, and deflects the wheel mounting
> flange, which then tightens the grip between the flange and the
> shallow taper on the axle.  The Guru then showed me his homemade
> fixture which he used to disassembled the undamaged hub, then he
> machined off the fractured shard of the axle the Triumph dealership
> broke and used a drift to push out the broken axle.  I was
> thoroughly impressed and subsequently copied and improved his
> fixture slightly.
>
>   The trick is to hold the wheel mounting flange so that it is flat
> and cannot deflect when applying the force.  To provide stiffness
> the top plate of the fixture is made from an 8" square piece of
> 3/4" thick steel plate and a 2 and 5/8" hole is bored in the
> middle.  The top plate of the fixture is also drilled to
> accommodate the four by 4.5 bolt circle of the studs in the
> flange.  To make sure it cant bend and tighten the taper the top
> plate is attached to four 3/8 thick by 2 deep rectangular plates
> that are welded underneath the four edges of the top plate.  After
> all of the welding is completed the surface that mates to the wheel
> mounting flange is machined flat using a milling machine.  The top
> plate does not bend because to do so it would need to stretch four
> 3/8 thick by 2 deep steel plates.  A steel mandrel that screws
> onto the threaded end of the stub axle is used to apply the press
> force.  The mandrel is made with a deep threaded hole so that it
> completely
>  engages and covers all of the threads on the stub axle.  The
> mandrel also has a shoulder that protrudes past the surface of the
> wheel mounting flange and applies force directly to the mating
> shoulder on the axle just past the point where the threads end.
>
>   If anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area wants to disassemble
> TR-4, TR-250 or TR-6 axles just let me know and and we can make
> arrangements to take your axles and my fixture to a local
> automotive machine shop that has a 40 ton press.  It is great fun
> watching the guys that work there cringe when the press is pumped
> up to 18 tons of force and the small amount of heat is applied to
> the flange.  Even when the force is minimized by applying a little
> heat it still makes a very satisfying big bang when the taper lets
> go.  By the way the mandrel is constructed so that parts cannot fly
> out of the press and everything is designed so that travel is very
> limited after the taper releases.
>
>   Jim Prettyleaf
>   Cupertino , California
>   TR-6 Comm # 55432L
>
>
>
>
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