<html xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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--></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Art,</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Bench priming isn’t necessary but quite helpful.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>The purpose of bench bleeding is to get the air out of the master cylinder before you connect it up. If you put a totally empty master cylinder into the car then try bleeding the brakes you will pump a lot of air into the system which will waste a lot of fluid before all the air is out. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>There are two ways to bench bleed the cylinder that I know of. One is to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid into the cylinder to get the air out. This works pretty good but the second way works better. The second way is to make some short lengths of brake line that screw into the master cylinder & are bent to have the other end of the line over the reservoir so that as the fluid fills the cylinder it will be put back into the reservoir while the air escapes. The fastest way would probably be a combination of the two, pump first, then the recirculating lines. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>The “bench bleeding” can be done either on the bench or in the car with the brake lines disconnected. The biggest thing to watch for is that the brake fluid in the reservoir doesn’t get down far enough that you pull air into cylinder.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Peace,</p><p class=MsoNormal>Pat</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>We support Habitat for Humanity<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>A hand UP not a hand OUT<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">Arthur Castronovo via Datsun-roadsters</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:28 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[Roadsters] 69 Roadster brake master cylinder</p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>Hi There. Been a while since I posted a question so I hope I’m doing this correctly. </p></div><p class=MsoNormal>I’m installing a new brake master cylinder on my 69 roadster. I think a recall seeing an article about bench priming it first. Is this necessary? If so, can someone share an article or instructions. Thanks in advance for your help. Art </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>