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<p>Thanks, Dann. <br>
</p>
<p>In this case, I am re-using my nearly new Porterfield R4S
compound rear shoes, and the parking brake adjustment is, as it
was, nominal.</p>
<p> Thanks for the image. I did manage to get the gaps staggered as
they were prior to replacing the wheel cylinders, which also
answers Morey Mast's question.</p>
<p>Must be the adjusters, not giving them enough slack.</p>
<p>Will advise.</p>
<p>Thanks again, everyone.</p>
<p>- Bob Mann<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/21/2016 3:08 PM, Rallye
Enterprises, Ltd. wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:4cdff281460a5c586e4741a59617628a@datsunroadster.com"
type="cite">
<br>
When reading Steve Ehler's good comments on dragging brakes it
reminded me of a few dozen phone
<br>
calls I've received over the decades and I don't know if this is
your case but I thought I'd throw it out there.
<br>
<br>
When new shoes are put on a car it is necessary to readjust the
parking brake cable linkage. If the linkage
<br>
had been adjusted to deal with worn brake shoes and you put on new
shoes it can many times cause the
<br>
drag you speak of since the previously needed linkage shortening
is no longer necessary.
<br>
<br>
It's a simple matter of loosening the cable adjuster so it has
just a titch of slack in it.
<br>
<br>
The other fellows comments are common too; that the shoes have to
be put on "staggered"; with the gap
<br>
on the end of one shoe be on the "opposite" side of the circle
than the other shoe's gap.
<br>
<br>
Usually unless the drums are cut a lot it is hard to even get the
drum over the shoes if both gaps (the area
<br>
of the shoe where there is no lining) are put close to each other.
<br>
<br>
I attached a picture of the shoe gaps staggered as they should be;
I'm not sure I'm explaining this very well.
<br>
<br>
Dann at Rallye <br>
</blockquote>
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