<div dir="ltr">I have a 510 master in mine, but I have a 69 w/dual reservoir. Weren't the 66 single reservoir?<div><br></div><div>Kris.</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Mar 8, 2016 at 7:27 AM, Linda via Datsun-roadsters <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net" target="_blank">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Karp's is great for brake cylinders too.<br>
What was approx cost for rsleeving brake cylinder?<br>
I got a 510 master with an adapter per 311 list years ago, works great.<br>
<div><div class="h5">LindaOn Mar 7, 2016 4:10 PM, Charles Hubbard via Datsun-roadsters <<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Mick,<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> I would have it sleeved in stainless steel and rebuild it. This is a more permanent fix. These cars sit for long periods of time. The combination of a steel piston with an aluminum cylinder is a recipe for corrosion. I decided that it's a waste of money to buy new cylinders when the OEM is a bad design. Put the master in a vice, apply some heat with a propane torch to the outside and use a large screw driver twist the cylinder until it breaks free. If it's locked up tight, spray rust eater into it and let it soak overnight. Once it is broken free and moving, you may be able to get it out with some needle-nose vice grips and a lot of patience. Smacking it onto a block of wood can also get it loose and moving. You can also try compressed air to blow it out, but be VERY careful to point it toward a foam pad or something soft, as it can and probably will come out like a bullet.<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> I used Karps Power Brake Service for all of my wheel cylinders and they did an excellent job. Here is their URL: <a href="http://www.karpspowerbrake.com/" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.karpspowerbrake.com/</a><br>
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> <br>
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> A little patience will pay off. Good luck!<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> Respectfully,<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> Charlie Hubbard<br>
><br>
> 1964 SPL310 Fairlady<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> From: Datsun-roadsters [mailto:<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of David Patten via Datsun-roadsters<br>
> Sent: Monday, March 07, 2016 9:24 AM<br>
> Cc: Datsun Roadster List <<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] !966 1600 Brake Master Cylinder help<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> Mick,<br>
><br>
> You may be able to use an aftermarket racing master cylinder from someone like Wilwood or Tilton Engineering as a replacement. These can be bought in multiple sizes. <br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> These have a 3/8" thread x 3/16" line with an inverted flare for the brake line connection and a 2.25" bolt spacing (typical of most vertical Datsun 2 bolt patterns masters), so it should bolt to the firewall with little effort. You may need to come up with a new clevis arrangement to attach it to the pedal. <br>
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> <br>
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> Just a possible option.<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> Dave Patten, Owner<br>
><br>
> FutoFab, LLC<br>
><br>
> 199 Stark Hwy So<br>
><br>
> Dunbarton, NH 03046-4411<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> <a href="http://www.FutoFab.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.FutoFab.com</a><br>
><br>
> email - <a href="mailto:FutoFab@gsinet.net">FutoFab@gsinet.net</a><br>
><br>
> Telephone - <a href="tel:%28603%29%20774-6964" value="+16037746964">(603) 774-6964</a><br>
><br>
> Facebook - FutoFab LLC<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> ________________________________<br>
><br>
> From: "Datsun Roadster List" <<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> To: "mick hayes" <<a href="mailto:mickatliverpooltile@gmail.com">mickatliverpooltile@gmail.com</a>><br>
> Cc: "Datsun Roadster List" <<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Sent: Monday, March 7, 2016 7:40:11 AM<br>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] !966 1600 Brake Master Cylinder help<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> Mick,<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> I'd check with Les at Classic Datsun or one of the other usual suspects regarding the M/C, but I suspect substituting isn't an easy option. Check the vendor section of <a href="http://311s.org" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">311s.org</a> for a list. AFAIK, Ross is still in business.<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> Regarding making your own hard lines, there may be some threads in the <a href="http://311s.org" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">311s.org</a> forums about that, and there are definitely a lot of generic sites on the web. Just remember the Roadsters used SAE fittings, not metric.<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
> HTH,<br>
><br>
> Ron<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
</div></div><span class="">> On Sun, Mar 6, 2016 at 8:33 PM, mick hayes via Datsun-roadsters <<a href="mailto:datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net">datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
>> Great forum<br>
>><br>
>> Can i buy a brake master cylinder from another car, that fits my 1600?. Or, does anyone have one to sell?. The current unit a Girling 70 has seized. Also, any good articles on making your own brake lines, would be good. <br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> My 1600, is 50 years old. I have owned it for 17 years, but have known it for 25 years. In all that time i have only driven it twice. I am determined to get her on the road this year, so any help, would be grateful. <br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> Major parts needed<br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> Low windshield...expensive<br>
>><br>
>> Gasket kits<br>
>><br>
</span>>> fuel sender unit<br>
<span class="">>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> Is, Ross Mullen Sport/Imports out of Vancouver still in business?<br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> Thanks<br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> Mick<br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>> <br>
>><br>
>><br>
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