[Roadsters] soft top

Sun Jun 28 23:54:26 MDT 2020

I have done top installs at least 6 to 8 times, sorta lost track. I have not done any early cars, just high windshield ones so take that into consideration. It is going to take you a good bit of time to do it properly (prob 5 hours) and it really helps to have the right tools to punch the holes and slots for the fasteners and a good snap set tool if doing snaps for the frame pads. You must take time and be careful with measurements and punching for fasteners to have excellent fit, but its not impossible task.  I have found the Robbins tops to be very predictable in size and fit.  The vinyl ones are bit easier to work with than the canvass, but the canvass can come out very nice.

Heres how I have done them in the past, others may have different method, but this works for me and my skill level.

Take a few minutes to measure up the center line of the car between the rear hold down clips and mark that using a piece of blue tape or the like.  Mark the front center similarly, top of the windshield works fine.  Find the center of both front and rear of new top and mark with caulk marks.  I put the rear bar into the top first and place the top onto the car making sure to have it centered over the rear mark and pull it over frame. Make sure it is even on both sides of the car where it meets the window and doors.  You then pull the front edge of top under the front bow and get it snug across the frame and caulk mark the front where it bends under the front bow all across the top.  This is the line up mark that tells you how much material goes under the bow clamp. 

Once satisfied that it is pretty much lined up well on the front bow and appears right across the frame and not crooked on the car it's time to take it back off. Lay it upside down on clean surface.  Take the frame and front bow off the car and match up the front bow with the caulk marks you made in the test fit.  Using the clamping metal start in the middle and work to the outside edges securing the top onto the bowM i do every other screw until I know the fit is good.  It is vital that you have the top centered on the bow and pull it under the clamp at least to your marked line and as even as possible across the bow.  I have found that you want to go just slightly beyond you caulk marks when putting the front onto the bow so the top isn't too loose.  It may be difficult to get the top to makes the turns at the outside ends smoothly but this can be done and will effect how the top looks at the outside ends when on the car.  There will be a good bit of excess material showing along the backside of the clamp but don't cut all this off just yet as you can use this to pull tighter if needed later.  You will trim this excess off with a razor knife before glueing down the gasket.

Top and frame goes back on the car and you get to see if it looks decent across the bows and is straight on the car.  You may have to make adjustments and even take the clamp completely off the front of top and try again, but probably not if you center measured and were careful.  If you have adjustments at the main frame pivot mounts, I have always made sure they were adjusted down most of the way and the rear hoop in the lowest position.  

If all looks good, caulk mark the twisty locations and make sure you dont pull the top off center in the process.  Now you hold your breath and punch the first holes into the top and install the twist fasteners. You can actually punch most of the holes right on the car IF YOU ARE CAREFUL and don't do allow your backer to rest on sheet metal that can be bent and have it well padded. It may be better to remove the top to punch most holes. I’ve done it both ways depending on how fancy the paint was.  

Once the twist fasteners are in and top attached to the car, pull the skirt down over each of the successive lift the dots and caulk mark where the stud sits on the skirt. They all should pretty much lay in the center of the skirt spaced evenly between the stitching.  Use the punch tool or a razor knife to make slits and hole for the fasteners and install them. I do them one at a time to make sure i get the skirt tight between them.  Also, the “dot” goes forward on both sides. So watch how you punch the holes. 

Once all the lift the dots are in the top should look pretty good on the car.  If it has some loose or small wrinkles you can figure out where to pull it tighter under the front bow and most the time you can get it to look better.  Cranking up the main hoop height or the rear bow adjustments can make the rear window snug as well as take out small wrinkles.  

Once its as good as you can get it, then you trim off the excess along the bow clamp and glue on the gasket. You can then pull the window tension wires thru and fasten them to the bow with the wire eyelets if you want to use the tension wires.  

It is not the simplest of projects and can be frustrating but most can probably handle if you have rebuilt a roadster or installed an interior, etc.  just take time and be careful as once you punch that hole you live with it.  I have stitched material over my mistakes on the twisty locations once and it looked pretty good, but I have an industrial machine I use for boat canvass work so most wont have that available. 

I will be doing one for another project car in next few months so maybe I make a video of this like every other hack mechanic on utube.

Good luck on it.

Dave Sommers
Dive Hatteras llc
www.divehatteras.com
703-517-3724 boat phone

>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 22:30, Pat Horne via Datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> wrote:
> My 67.5 has adjusters on the pivots behind the doors. I never found any information about how to set them when installing a new top. 
> 
> I suspect that most of the years have these adjustable pivots but haven’t researched it. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
> On Jun 28, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Brian Conroy via Datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>  Be careful, it’s a fine line between getting it too tight and too loose. I installed mine a little tight and it is not easy to put up. If I had to do it over again I would do it on a medium warm day and make sure it could be put up easily. However, you don’t want it so loose that it flaps while you’re driving.
> 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad
> 
> On Sunday, June 28, 2020, 10:09 PM, dave via Datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I am installing the soft top on an early 67 roadster.
> 
>  
> 
> I see this:  http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.SoftTopInstall
> 
>  
> 
> Anyone have anything better?  We have already decided to do the snaps in the back first, then do the front.  I think that makes more sense.
> 
>  
> 
> Btw I found a generic gasket for the front where it meets the windshield - $12!
> 
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