From hallosb at juno.com  Sat Oct  1 22:49:13 2011
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 04:49:13 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
Message-ID: <20111001.214913.27623.0@webmail53.vgs.untd.com>

Very cool!

Did anyone catch Adam Corolla's show, "The Car Show"? I taped it this week
but, it may be an old episode.  He shows off one of his roadsters in his
garage and talks about another that Les Canaday was restoring.  He wanted to
race the roadster Les was working on but, it wasn't ready. Looking at Keith's
post, it's finished now.

In this episode, Adam Corolla races his 610. I think Les is featured in the
show working on the 610 but, I met Les so long ago I'm not sure if it's him.

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Keith Downing <keithddowning at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun E-Mail List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 14:39:17 -0700 (PDT)

In case you haven't seen it, Adam Carolla posted video of his BRE 1 Roadster
at
Laguna Seca.

http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2011/09/02/monterey-road-trip-pt2-raci
ng/

Enjoy
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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____________________________________________________________
60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e87ed661a9929776b8st01vuc

From RWM at RWMann.com  Sun Oct  2 08:58:52 2011
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM)
Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 10:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
In-Reply-To: <20111001.214913.27623.0@webmail53.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20111001.214913.27623.0@webmail53.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4E887C2C.4030805@RWMann.com>

He has a garage full of ex-Bob Sharp Racing and ex-Paul Newman Datsuns 
(among others).



On 10/2/2011 12:49 AM, hallosb at juno.com wrote:
> Very cool!
>
> Did anyone catch Adam Corolla's show, "The Car Show"? I taped it this week
> but, it may be an old episode.  He shows off one of his roadsters in his
> garage and talks about another that Les Canaday was restoring.  He wanted to
> race the roadster Les was working on but, it wasn't ready. Looking at Keith's
> post, it's finished now.
>
> In this episode, Adam Corolla races his 610. I think Les is featured in the
> show working on the 610 but, I met Les so long ago I'm not sure if it's him.
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Keith Downing<keithddowning at yahoo.com>
> To: Datsun E-Mail List<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
> Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 14:39:17 -0700 (PDT)
>
> In case you haven't seen it, Adam Carolla posted video of his BRE 1 Roadster
> at
> Laguna Seca.
>
> http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2011/09/02/monterey-road-trip-pt2-raci
> ng/
>
> Enjoy

From ken__pearce at hotmail.com  Sun Oct  2 17:28:21 2011
From: ken__pearce at hotmail.com (The Ken Pearce)
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 16:28:21 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
In-Reply-To: <20111001.214913.27623.0@webmail53.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20111001.214913.27623.0@webmail53.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <BAY146-W434F02426D6A2B77194F61AFF50@phx.gbl>

Great vid!!!  Thanks for posting...  Now if I can only get my tach working...
;)

kp

> From: hallosb at juno.com
> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 04:49:13 +0000
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
>
> Very cool!
>
> Did anyone catch Adam Corolla's show, "The Car Show"? I taped it this week
> but, it may be an old episode.  He shows off one of his roadsters in his
> garage and talks about another that Les Canaday was restoring.  He wanted
to
> race the roadster Les was working on but, it wasn't ready. Looking at
Keith's
> post, it's finished now.
>
> In this episode, Adam Corolla races his 610. I think Les is featured in the
> show working on the 610 but, I met Les so long ago I'm not sure if it's
him.
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Keith Downing <keithddowning at yahoo.com>
> To: Datsun E-Mail List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
> Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 14:39:17 -0700 (PDT)
>
> In case you haven't seen it, Adam Carolla posted video of his BRE 1
Roadster
> at
> Laguna Seca.
>
>
http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2011/09/02/monterey-road-trip-pt2-raci
> ng/
>
> Enjoy
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/hallosb at juno.com
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
> Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e87ed661a9929776b8st01vuc
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ken__pearce at hotmail.co
m

From krismon at ongbongan.com  Mon Oct  3 11:36:54 2011
From: krismon at ongbongan.com (Krismon ongbongan)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 10:36:54 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
In-Reply-To: <BAY146-W434F02426D6A2B77194F61AFF50@phx.gbl>
References: <20111001.214913.27623.0@webmail53.vgs.untd.com>
	<BAY146-W434F02426D6A2B77194F61AFF50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAHzNKbiauoiR7xY0_XBorWsnNhbarsZ2P0kD=i5mPLs3C7ECOw@mail.gmail.com>

jalopnik has a high-res action pic at
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150286636610168.333303.7613480167&type=1

Kris.

On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 4:28 PM, The Ken Pearce <ken__pearce at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Great vid!!!  Thanks for posting...  Now if I can only get my tach
> working...
> ;)
>
> kp
>
> > From: hallosb at juno.com
> > Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 04:49:13 +0000
> > To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
> >
> > Very cool!
> >
> > Did anyone catch Adam Corolla's show, "The Car Show"? I taped it this
> week
> > but, it may be an old episode.  He shows off one of his roadsters in his
> > garage and talks about another that Les Canaday was restoring.  He wanted
> to
> > race the roadster Les was working on but, it wasn't ready. Looking at
> Keith's
> > post, it's finished now.
> >
> > In this episode, Adam Corolla races his 610. I think Les is featured in
> the
> > show working on the 610 but, I met Les so long ago I'm not sure if it's
> him.
> >
> > ---------- Original Message ----------
> > From: Keith Downing <keithddowning at yahoo.com>
> > To: Datsun E-Mail List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Roadsters] Adam Carolla BRE 1 @ Laguna Seca
> > Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 14:39:17 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> > In case you haven't seen it, Adam Carolla posted video of his BRE 1
> Roadster
> > at
> > Laguna Seca.
> >
> >
>
> http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2011/09/02/monterey-road-trip-pt2-raci
> > ng/
> >
> > Enjoy
> > ________________________________________
> >
> > datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/hallosb at juno.com
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > 60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
> > Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
> > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e87ed661a9929776b8st01vuc
> > ________________________________________
> >
> > datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ken__pearce at hotmail.co
> m
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/krismon at ongbongan.com

From chalsted at comcast.net  Mon Oct  3 17:47:51 2011
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 23:47:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] roadsters, 69 Cougar,
 64 T Bird sport roadster and others for  sale in Virginia
Message-ID: <1495264573.31332.1317685671933.JavaMail.root@sz0145a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

have a cheap solid body 66 1600 for sale, was a one owner car originally out of California $1000 
a 35k original mile 66 1600, fresh paint, never a rust car... 
a one owner 69 Cougar, original title, survivor condition just came out of the barn after 26 years. still has the factory plastic on the back seat! 351W 2bbl AT. 
a 64 Thunderbird Sport Roadster- one of 50 built that year- removable hard tonneau and Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels 
also an 86 Talladega T-Bird, one of 500 built. 
and an 81 VW Diesel Rabbit with 80k original miles, very nice car 
contact me off list if interested in any of these, would like to thin out the herd a bit before the snow flies 
Thanks :-) 
Craig 

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Tue Oct  4 12:09:24 2011
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 13:09:24 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil leak
Message-ID: <BLU150-W26A1125868F293F50B9ED69BFB0@phx.gbl>

Hey listers,
I have an oil change question.
Last sunday I changed the oil in my 1600.  Everything went fine, no immediate
leaks, crush washer installed and new filter added with the seal lightly
lubricated with oil.  I topped the car up with fresh oil and then went about
my day.  Last night, I started the car to try to determine if I had fixed a
coolant leak that I had.  Turns out the leak was not fixed, but that is a
different story.  When I left for work this morning, I found a huge puddle of
Motor oil under the car.  More than a small leak, I am talking two or three
quarts!  I looked under the car this afternoon and cannot determine if the
leak came from the plug or the filter.  I cannot turn the filter any tighter.
It does not appear that the oil plug is leaking.  Here is the question, when I
put the copper crush washer on the plug, I put the smaller diameter against
the plug head, and the larger diameter side against the pan.  A friend
mentioned that he thinks it should be the other way, with the smaller diameter
side against the oil pan.  Does this matter?  Since mine was backward of what
he said, I took it off, drained and replaced the washer with the small side
against the pan, but I am afraid to refill and run the car as I don't want 4
more quarts on the floor.
Would having this washer on backwards be enough to let the oil come out when
hot but not when cold?  Any other thoughts.  I had no major leaks before and I
used 20W 50 oil with the same filter as the one I just took off.  Any thoughts
would be greatly appreciated.
I am off to spread the kitty litter.
Thanks,Dan

From cour.jpeg at gmail.com  Tue Oct  4 14:27:55 2011
From: cour.jpeg at gmail.com (cour.jpeg at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 20:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil leak
In-Reply-To: <BLU150-W26A1125868F293F50B9ED69BFB0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU150-W26A1125868F293F50B9ED69BFB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1017012724-1317760077-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-672637938-@b15.c10.bise6.blackberry>

Sometimes the rubber ring from the old filter will stay stuck on the engine mounting base. You may also have gone to a shorter oil filter and the standpipe is keeping it from seating fully.

Top of my head.

Another ~ZoltVolt~ wireless picture msg

-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
Sender: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 13:09:24 
To: Datsun Mailing List<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil leak

Hey listers,
I have an oil change question.
Last sunday I changed the oil in my 1600.  Everything went fine, no immediate
leaks, crush washer installed and new filter added with the seal lightly
lubricated with oil.  I topped the car up with fresh oil and then went about
my day.  Last night, I started the car to try to determine if I had fixed a
coolant leak that I had.  Turns out the leak was not fixed, but that is a
different story.  When I left for work this morning, I found a huge puddle of
Motor oil under the car.  More than a small leak, I am talking two or three
quarts!  I looked under the car this afternoon and cannot determine if the
leak came from the plug or the filter.  I cannot turn the filter any tighter.
It does not appear that the oil plug is leaking.  Here is the question, when I
put the copper crush washer on the plug, I put the smaller diameter against
the plug head, and the larger diameter side against the pan.  A friend
mentioned that he thinks it should be the other way, with the smaller diameter
side against the oil pan.  Does this matter?  Since mine was backward of what
he said, I took it off, drained and replaced the washer with the small side
against the pan, but I am afraid to refill and run the car as I don't want 4
more quarts on the floor.
Would having this washer on backwards be enough to let the oil come out when
hot but not when cold?  Any other thoughts.  I had no major leaks before and I
used 20W 50 oil with the same filter as the one I just took off.  Any thoughts
would be greatly appreciated.
I am off to spread the kitty litter.
Thanks,Dan
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/courjpeg at gmail.com

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Tue Oct  4 14:40:52 2011
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 15:40:52 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil leak
In-Reply-To: <1017012724-1317760077-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-672637938-@b15.c10.bise6.blackberry>
References: <BLU150-W26A1125868F293F50B9ED69BFB0@phx.gbl>,
	<1017012724-1317760077-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-672637938-@b15.c10.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <BLU150-W50D9E050FFAB7F807427F9BFB0@phx.gbl>

The rubber ring is on the old filter, and my car does not have a drain tube in
the filter housing.  It could be possible that the new one does not have a
rubber ring though, I'll check that.

Thanks,
Dan

> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil leak
> To: d_kroninger at hotmail.com; datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net;
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> From: cour.jpeg at gmail.com
> Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 20:27:55 +0000
>
> Sometimes the rubber ring from the old filter will stay stuck on the engine
mounting base. You may also have gone to a shorter oil filter and the
standpipe is keeping it from seating fully.
>
> Top of my head.
>
> Another ~ZoltVolt~ wireless picture msg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
> Sender: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Tue, 4 Oct 2011
13:09:24
> To: Datsun Mailing List<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] Oil leak
>
> Hey listers,
> I have an oil change question.
> Last sunday I changed the oil in my 1600.  Everything went fine, no
immediate
> leaks, crush washer installed and new filter added with the seal lightly
> lubricated with oil.  I topped the car up with fresh oil and then went
about
> my day.  Last night, I started the car to try to determine if I had fixed a
> coolant leak that I had.  Turns out the leak was not fixed, but that is a
> different story.  When I left for work this morning, I found a huge puddle
of
> Motor oil under the car.  More than a small leak, I am talking two or three
> quarts!  I looked under the car this afternoon and cannot determine if the
> leak came from the plug or the filter.  I cannot turn the filter any
tighter.
> It does not appear that the oil plug is leaking.  Here is the question, when
I
> put the copper crush washer on the plug, I put the smaller diameter against
> the plug head, and the larger diameter side against the pan.  A friend
> mentioned that he thinks it should be the other way, with the smaller
diameter
> side against the oil pan.  Does this matter?  Since mine was backward of
what
> he said, I took it off, drained and replaced the washer with the small side
> against the pan, but I am afraid to refill and run the car as I don't want
4
> more quarts on the floor.
> Would having this washer on backwards be enough to let the oil come out
when
> hot but not when cold?  Any other thoughts.  I had no major leaks before and
I
> used 20W 50 oil with the same filter as the one I just took off.  Any
thoughts
> would be greatly appreciated.
> I am off to spread the kitty litter.
> Thanks,Dan
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/courjpeg at gmail.com

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Tue Oct  4 15:57:20 2011
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 14:57:20 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] [Norton AntiSpam] Oil leak
References: <BLU150-W26A1125868F293F50B9ED69BFB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <97D4A0FCAA2B4F3CA932A6B1B2B022E2@HPW>

  I looked under the car this afternoon and cannot determine if the
leak came from the plug or the filter.  I cannot turn the filter any tighter.
It does not appear that the oil plug is leaking.  ...

You may have OVER-tightened the filter and caused the seal to distort.

The oil filter only needs a bit past "snug" to achieve proper seal.

E

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Oct  4 20:11:00 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 19:11:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil leak
In-Reply-To: <BLU150-W50D9E050FFAB7F807427F9BFB0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU150-W26A1125868F293F50B9ED69BFB0@phx.gbl>,
	<1017012724-1317760077-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-672637938-@b15.c10.bise6.blackberry>
	<BLU150-W50D9E050FFAB7F807427F9BFB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1317780660.3743.YahooMailRC@web180204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Dan,

I don't think it matters how you install the copper washer, but I'd put
it on 
the way you did.  I replace my copper washer about every 30 years
(i.e., never), 
and have never had a leak.  I did leave the oil filter a
little loose one time, 
and noticed a trail of oil behind me leaving a gas
station.  I don't think you 
would leak that much oil with no copper gasket on
the drain plug.  Unless you 
did something other than drain/replace the oil
and replace the filter, I'd bet 
on the filter gasket.  One-eighth turn past
snug is sufficient.  Install it that 
way, and you'll need a strap wrench to
remove it next time.

Gary


________________________________
From: Dan
Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
To: courjpeg at gmail.com;
datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net; 
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 4, 2011 3:40:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil leak

The
rubber ring is on the old filter, and my car does not have a drain tube in
the
filter housing.  It could be possible that the new one does not have a
rubber
ring though, I'll check that.

Thanks,
Dan

> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil
leak
> To: d_kroninger at hotmail.com; datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net;
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> From: cour.jpeg at gmail.com
> Date: Tue, 4 Oct
2011 20:27:55 +0000
>
> Sometimes the rubber ring from the old filter will
stay stuck on the engine
mounting base. You may also have gone to a shorter
oil filter and the
standpipe is keeping it from seating fully.
>
> Top of my
head.
>
> Another ~ZoltVolt~ wireless picture msg
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
> Sender:
datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Tue, 4 Oct 2011
13:09:24
> To:
Datsun Mailing List<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters]
Oil leak
>
> Hey listers,
> I have an oil change question.
> Last sunday I
changed the oil in my 1600.  Everything went fine, no
immediate
> leaks, crush
washer installed and new filter added with the seal lightly
> lubricated with
oil.  I topped the car up with fresh oil and then went
about
> my day.  Last
night, I started the car to try to determine if I had fixed a
> coolant leak
that I had.  Turns out the leak was not fixed, but that is a
> different
story.  When I left for work this morning, I found a huge puddle
of
> Motor
oil under the car.  More than a small leak, I am talking two or three
>
quarts!  I looked under the car this afternoon and cannot determine if the
>
leak came from the plug or the filter.  I cannot turn the filter any
tighter.
> It does not appear that the oil plug is leaking.  Here is the question, when
I
> put the copper crush washer on the plug, I put the smaller diameter
against
> the plug head, and the larger diameter side against the pan.  A
friend
> mentioned that he thinks it should be the other way, with the smaller
diameter
> side against the oil pan.  Does this matter?  Since mine was
backward of
what
> he said, I took it off, drained and replaced the washer
with the small side
> against the pan, but I am afraid to refill and run the
car as I don't want
4
> more quarts on the floor.
> Would having this washer
on backwards be enough to let the oil come out
when
> hot but not when cold? 
Any other thoughts.  I had no major leaks before and
I
> used 20W 50 oil with
the same filter as the one I just took off.  Any
thoughts
> would be greatly
appreciated.
> I am off to spread the kitty litter.
> Thanks,Dan
>
________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/courjpeg at gmail.com
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Wed Oct  5 08:46:34 2011
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:46:34 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Coolant leak
Message-ID: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHCEKCCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net>

Group,

During my pre-flight inspection of silver for this up and coming weekend's
twistie road run I noticed a small amount of coolant below the front of the
engine. It appears that the thermostat housing (I've never removed it)is
leaking at the head to housing surface. The housing was installed using a
liquid gasket material and not a hard gasket. I plan on removing the housing
and am wondering if the liquid gasket or hard gasket is preferred? Brand or
material choice information is appreciated.

Thanks

Steve Harvey

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Wed Oct  5 10:29:50 2011
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:29:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHCEKCCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <655620022.122555.1317832190689.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

On my U20 I use the stock paper gasket with a !very! thin coating of Hylomar gasket sealant on both sides. 

I also have an external ground wire from the thermostat housing so the temp sender doesn't have to depend on that stupid staple in the gasket. 


Gordon Glasgow 
Renton, WA 
www.gordon-glasgow.org 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Harvey" <stebharvey at ameritech.net> 
To: "Datsun List" <Datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 7:46:34 AM 
Subject: [Roadsters] Coolant leak 

Group, 

During my pre-flight inspection of silver for this up and coming weekend's 
twistie road run I noticed a small amount of coolant below the front of the 
engine. It appears that the thermostat housing (I've never removed it)is 
leaking at the head to housing surface. The housing was installed using a 
liquid gasket material and not a hard gasket. I plan on removing the housing 
and am wondering if the liquid gasket or hard gasket is preferred? Brand or 
material choice information is appreciated. 

Thanks 

Steve Harvey 
________________________________________ 

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net 

From BARTERDUDE at aol.com  Wed Oct  5 12:51:13 2011
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com (BARTERDUDE at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 14:51:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal
Message-ID: <1a533.7883255d.3bbe0121@aol.com>

I am putting a hardtop on a 1967 Roadster we just picked up and it is  
missing the entire gasket around the bottom that sits on the back.  Can't  
determine the brand but it is a round portal top that is squared in the  back.  
Anyone have recommendation on where I can get the rubber seal/gasket  to fit 
on the bottom of the hardtop?
 
 
 
Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289

From vulforge at aol.com  Wed Oct  5 14:11:28 2011
From: vulforge at aol.com (vulforge at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:11:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
Message-ID: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>

The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is leaking at the bottom tube, and maybe from
the seam.  No problem, says I, I will take it to my friendly neighborhood
radiator shop and have it soldered.  $78 says the friendly neighborhood
radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy an new one, I just want it soldered!
That's how much it is, says he.  Fortunately I have the one off the crashed
car, so I swapped and am out driving.  Seriously, is that price the going
rate?


Russell Criswell
Vulcan's Forge
3936 Broadway
Kansas City, MO
64111

816-931-6303
816-931-9378 fax
877-531-1046 toll-free
www.vulcans-forge.com

From davesmbox at aol.com  Wed Oct  5 14:30:15 2011
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:30:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal
In-Reply-To: <1a533.7883255d.3bbe0121@aol.com>
References: <1a533.7883255d.3bbe0121@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE51B4B915A9F7-130-1B801@webmail-d041.sysops.aol.com>

J.C. WHITNEY.    They have dozens of shapes. Did my hardtop years ago


-----Original Message-----
From: BARTERDUDE <BARTERDUDE at aol.com>
To: datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 5, 2011 4:27 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal


I am putting a hardtop on a 1967 Roadster we just picked up and it is
issing the entire gasket around the bottom that sits on the back.  Can't
etermine the brand but it is a round portal top that is squared in the  back.
nyone have recommendation on where I can get the rubber seal/gasket  to fit
n the bottom of the hardtop?



ary Lasater  - Parker CO
ounding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  /
www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)
963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
964  SPL310-01289
_______________________________________
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/davesmbox at aol.com

From aultgc at att.net  Wed Oct  5 14:46:25 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:46:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal
In-Reply-To: <1a533.7883255d.3bbe0121@aol.com>
References: <1a533.7883255d.3bbe0121@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1317847585.31199.YahooMailRC@web180208.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Gary,

Check Hemmings for suppliers of antique weatherstrip.  I can't remember
the 
names, but there are a couple who supply a wide variety of seals and
weatherstrip, one of which should be adaptable to your needs.  Or, a search of
door and window stores, or those sections at your favorite MegaMart may yield
something you can adapt.

I seriously doubt you can get a gasket/seal
specifically for the hardtop, 
because they are no lonnger made for
roadsters.  But, perhaps there are 
aftermarket hardtops made for other
marques which have a seal design which could 
work.

Gary
________________________________
From: "BARTERDUDE at aol.com"
<BARTERDUDE at aol.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, October 5,
2011 1:51:13 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal

I
am putting a hardtop on a 1967 Roadster we just picked up and it is  
missing
the entire gasket around the bottom that sits on the back.  Can't  
determine
the brand but it is a round portal top that is squared in the  back.  
Anyone
have recommendation on where I can get the rubber seal/gasket  to fit 
on the
bottom of the hardtop?



Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member
_www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_
(http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B
(Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289
________________________________________
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tpb73 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct  5 15:52:18 2011
From: tpb73 at yahoo.com (Pete Koernig)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 14:52:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
In-Reply-To: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1317851538.31153.YahooMailNeo@web114511.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Do it yourself with plain old solder and soldering iron.... or JB Weld.
Pete
Koernig 
'69 2000 about to get rid of (inoperable)
'70 1600 still on blocks
whilst replacing brake lines



>________________________________
>From:
"vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>
>To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 1:11 PM
>Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
>
>The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is leaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
from
>the seam.  No problem, says I, I will take it to my friendly
neighborhood
>radiator shop and have it soldered.  $78 says the friendly
neighborhood
>radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy an new one, I just
want it soldered!
>That's how much it is, says he.  Fortunately I have the one
off the crashed
>car, so I swapped and am out driving.  Seriously, is that
price the going
>rate?
>
>
>Russell Criswell
>Vulcan's Forge
>3936 Broadway
>Kansas City, MO
>64111
>
>816-931-6303
>816-931-9378 fax
>877-531-1046
toll-free
>www.vulcans-forge.com
>________________________________________
>
>datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/tpb73 at yahoo.com

From keithddowning at yahoo.com  Wed Oct  5 15:53:36 2011
From: keithddowning at yahoo.com (Keith Downing)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 14:53:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
In-Reply-To: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1317851616.54681.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I had my entire radiator overhauled, repaired and painted for $75.  That
sounds 
like a shop that doesn't want to work, or doesn't want the job.

Keith
________________________________
From: "vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, October 5, 2011 1:11:28 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank

The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is
leaking at the bottom tube, and maybe from
the seam.  No problem, says I, I
will take it to my friendly neighborhood
radiator shop and have it soldered. 
$78 says the friendly neighborhood
radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy
an new one, I just want it soldered!
That's how much it is, says he. 
Fortunately I have the one off the crashed
car, so I swapped and am out
driving.  Seriously, is that price the going
rate?


Russell Criswell
Vulcan's
Forge
3936 Broadway
Kansas City, MO
64111

816-931-6303
816-931-9378 fax
877-531-1046 toll-free
www.vulcans-forge.com
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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m

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Wed Oct  5 17:17:29 2011
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:17:29 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
In-Reply-To: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3A782BCF-9068-4CB8-AC1F-490224EF7D2E@netscape.net>

Why not solder it yourself Russell? I did. Not a pro job but it worked.
Linda

Sent from my iPod

On Oct 5, 2011, at 1:11 PM, vulforge at aol.com wrote:

> The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is leaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
from
> the seam.  No problem, says I, I will take it to my friendly neighborhood
> radiator shop and have it soldered.  $78 says the friendly neighborhood
> radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy an new one, I just want it
soldered!
> That's how much it is, says he.  Fortunately I have the one off the crashed
> car, so I swapped and am out driving.  Seriously, is that price the going
> rate?
>
>
> Russell Criswell
> Vulcan's Forge
> 3936 Broadway
> Kansas City, MO
> 64111
>
> 816-931-6303
> 816-931-9378 fax
> 877-531-1046 toll-free
> www.vulcans-forge.com
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ljordan704 at netscape.ne
t

From lee.ehinger at frontier.com  Wed Oct  5 19:27:15 2011
From: lee.ehinger at frontier.com (Lee Ehinger)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 21:27:15 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal
In-Reply-To: <8CE51B4B915A9F7-130-1B801@webmail-d041.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DAB95BDA713A41F0A357674190A9253B@ehingerhome>

Rubber gasket by the foot, by profile in McMaster Carr catalog.

Used McMaster Carr in place of 240z vender provided door gasket material....
more pliable and don't need to aggressively slam door...
Lee Ehinger

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
davesmbox at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 4:30 PM
To: BARTERDUDE at aol.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal

J.C. WHITNEY.    They have dozens of shapes. Did my hardtop years ago


-----Original Message-----
From: BARTERDUDE <BARTERDUDE at aol.com>
To: datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 5, 2011 4:27 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal


I am putting a hardtop on a 1967 Roadster we just picked up and it is
issing the entire gasket around the bottom that sits on the back.  Can't
etermine the brand but it is a round portal top that is squared in the
back.
nyone have recommendation on where I can get the rubber seal/gasket  to fit
n the bottom of the hardtop?



ary Lasater  - Parker CO
ounding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  /
www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)
963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
964  SPL310-01289
_______________________________________
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/davesmbox at aol.com
________________________________________

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com

From BARTERDUDE at aol.com  Wed Oct  5 21:13:36 2011
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com (BARTERDUDE at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 23:13:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recommendation for Hardtop Gasket/Seal
Message-ID: <5f462.c911684.3bbe76e0@aol.com>

Anyone have the profile for the rubber seal/gasket on a hardtop?  I  don't 
have anything on the top I have.
 
Gary Lasater
 
 
In a message dated 10/5/2011 7:27:25 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
lee.ehinger at frontier.com writes:

From rod at rodsdatsun.com  Wed Oct  5 21:28:44 2011
From: rod at rodsdatsun.com (rodeaton)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 20:28:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Lashpad Mystery
In-Reply-To: <08C807F87EC84A39924FA0C3013AEB92@gaxp1>
References: <BD052659-B361-4D94-965C-F3F9432FB547@mindspring.com>
	<08C807F87EC84A39924FA0C3013AEB92@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <001801cc83d8$0e466210$2ad32630$@com>

Had it happen to me three time on L16,L18 and L20b. Did not hurt anything
and valve ajustment  
Was ok.  Yes it is a mystery

Rod Eaton
www.rodsdatsun.com
1-888-257-7773

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy
Ault
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 6:38 PM
To: Nathaniel Leeds; datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Lashpad Mystery

Nathaniel,

No, I have never heard of that happening, but there are many with more 
experience than I have with the range of possible failures in U20s.

I have a hard time imagining how a lash pad could run away from home unless:

1.  The lash pad were improperly installed in the first place, or,
2.  A valve spring is weak (or broken) and floated during an aggressive 
acceleration event, and allowed the pad to escape.

The lash pads sit in a ridged depression in the valve spring retainer.  I 
don't see any way the lash pad could become loose as long as there is 
tension between the pad and rocker.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nathaniel Leeds" <nmleeds at mindspring.com>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 4:20 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Lashpad Mystery


> All,
>
> Here's a mystery.  Car was running fine, started running like crap, the 
> cause:
> one of the lashpads decided to excuse itself from the head, and migrate 
> down
> through the timing chain to the bottom of the oil pan where it sat, 
> uninjured.
> Now the mystery: why would lashpad want to run away from home?  Has anyone
> else had this problem?
>
> Nathaniel Leeds
> '69 2000 (SU's)
> Now running, on all 4 cylinders again.
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

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From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Thu Oct  6 08:06:28 2011
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 07:06:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
In-Reply-To: <1317851538.31153.YahooMailNeo@web114511.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
	<1317851538.31153.YahooMailNeo@web114511.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1317909988.50929.YahooMailNeo@web121401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Any plumber has a torch, or you can buy them at the store, "bernzomatic".
 
Just be careful not to use too much heat. A trick is to put water in, up to
just below where you want to solder, it keeps other things from melting.
 
JimG
 


________________________________
From: Pete Koernig <tpb73 at yahoo.com>
To: "vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>; "datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank

Do it yourself with plain old solder
and soldering iron.... or JB Weld.
Pete
Koernig 
'69 2000 about to get rid of
(inoperable)
'70 1600 still on blocks
whilst replacing brake lines
>________________________________
>From:
"vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>
>To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 1:11 PM
>Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
>
>The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is
leaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
from
>the seam.  No problem, says I, I
will take it to my friendly
neighborhood
>radiator shop and have it soldered. 
$78 says the friendly
neighborhood
>radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy
an new one, I just
want it soldered!
>That's how much it is, says he. 
Fortunately I have the one
off the crashed
>car, so I swapped and am out
driving.  Seriously, is that
price the going
>rate?
>
>
>Russell Criswell
>Vulcan's Forge
>3936 Broadway
>Kansas City, MO
>64111
>
>816-931-6303
>816-931-9378 fax
>877-531-1046
toll-free
>www.vulcans-forge.com
>________________________________________
>
>datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/tpb73 at yahoo.com
________________________________________

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From davesmbox at aol.com  Thu Oct  6 09:37:50 2011
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 11:37:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
In-Reply-To: <1317909988.50929.YahooMailNeo@web121401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com><1317851538.31153.YahooMailNeo@web114511.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<1317909988.50929.YahooMailNeo@web121401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE52550A292C4A-1AA0-28C42@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>

and use plenty of FLUX



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun roadster <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Oct 6, 2011 11:10 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank


Any plumber has a torch, or you can buy them at the store, "bernzomatic".

ust be careful not to use too much heat. A trick is to put water in, up to
ust below where you want to solder, it keeps other things from melting.

imG


_______________________________
rom: Pete Koernig <tpb73 at yahoo.com>
o: "vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>; "datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net"
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
ent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 5:52 PM
ubject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
Do it yourself with plain old solder
nd soldering iron.... or JB Weld.
ete
oernig
69 2000 about to get rid of
inoperable)
70 1600 still on blocks
hilst replacing brake lines
________________________________
From:
vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 1:11 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank

The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is
eaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
rom
the seam.  No problem, says I, I
ill take it to my friendly
eighborhood
radiator shop and have it soldered.
78 says the friendly
eighborhood
radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy
n new one, I just
ant it soldered!
That's how much it is, says he.
ortunately I have the one
ff the crashed
car, so I swapped and am out
riving.  Seriously, is that
rice the going
rate?


Russell Criswell
Vulcan's Forge
3936 Broadway
Kansas City, MO
64111

816-931-6303
816-931-9378 fax
877-531-1046
oll-free
www.vulcans-forge.com
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

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From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Thu Oct  6 14:08:37 2011
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 13:08:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
In-Reply-To: <8CE52550A292C4A-1AA0-28C42@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE51B21988DD83-1C88-1D280@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>
	<1317851538.31153.YahooMailNeo@web114511.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<1317909988.50929.YahooMailNeo@web121401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8CE52550A292C4A-1AA0-28C42@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5F9CD5D6-4482-41B1-8BEB-12CA43D0B64E@netscape.net>

Isn't a soldering iron OK? I'm pretty sure that is what I used as I just had
one little spot that leaked.

Linda

Sent from my iPod

On Oct 6, 2011, at 8:37 AM, davesmbox at aol.com wrote:

> and use plenty of FLUX
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>
> To: Datsun roadster <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Oct 6, 2011 11:10 am
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
>
>
> Any plumber has a torch, or you can buy them at the store, "bernzomatic".
>
> ust be careful not to use too much heat. A trick is to put water in, up to
> ust below where you want to solder, it keeps other things from melting.
>
> imG
>
>
> _______________________________
> rom: Pete Koernig <tpb73 at yahoo.com>
> o: "vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>; "datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net"
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> ent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 5:52 PM
> ubject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
> Do it yourself with plain old solder
> nd soldering iron.... or JB Weld.
> ete
> oernig
> 69 2000 about to get rid of
> inoperable)
> 70 1600 still on blocks
> hilst replacing brake lines
> ________________________________
> From:
> vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 1:11 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
>
> The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is
> eaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
> rom
> the seam.  No problem, says I, I
> ill take it to my friendly
> eighborhood
> radiator shop and have it soldered.
> 78 says the friendly
> eighborhood
> radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy
> n new one, I just
> ant it soldered!
> That's how much it is, says he.
> ortunately I have the one
> ff the crashed
> car, so I swapped and am out
> riving.  Seriously, is that
> rice the going
> rate?
>
>
> Russell Criswell
> Vulcan's Forge
> 3936 Broadway
> Kansas City, MO
> 64111
>
> 816-931-6303
> 816-931-9378 fax
> 877-531-1046
> oll-free
> www.vulcans-forge.com
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/tpb73 at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe:
>
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/davesmbox at aol.com
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ljordan704 at netscape.ne
t

From BARTERDUDE at aol.com  Fri Oct  7 08:48:05 2011
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com (BARTERDUDE at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:48:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor
Message-ID: <6c1e9.1cf8325b.3bc06b25@aol.com>

Okay, I've got a question.  I had my original 1500 G series motor  rebuilt 
on the top and bottom end.  The bottom end was done due to the #4  rod 
bearing going bad, and it scored the crank so bad, it could not be  trued.  So we 
pulled the crank out of a '64 1500 G motor and had it trued  (supposedly).  
The motor had about 400 - 500 miles on it and all the sudden  it spun 
another bearing.  So what's the culprit?  Bad machining, bad  assembly, bad 
parts, ????
 
 
Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289

From BARTERDUDE at aol.com  Fri Oct  7 09:52:55 2011
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com (BARTERDUDE at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 11:52:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 Motor
Message-ID: <14fc3.1a77a677.3bc07a57@aol.com>

Tried sending this before, but didn't see it hit.
 
Okay, I've got a question.  I had my original 1500 G series motor  rebuilt 
on the top and bottom end.  The bottom end was done due to the #4  rod 
bearing going bad, and it scored the crank so bad, it could not be  trued.  So we 
pulled the crank out of a '64 1500 G motor and had it trued  (supposedly).  
The motor had about 400 - 500 miles on it and all the sudden  it spun 
another bearing.  So what's the culprit?  Bad machining, bad  assembly, bad 
parts, ????
 
Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Fri Oct  7 10:19:46 2011
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 16:19:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor
In-Reply-To: <6c1e9.1cf8325b.3bc06b25@aol.com>
Message-ID: <99534742.223004.1318004386012.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Did you rod out all the oil passages in the block? Something ma y be obstructing oil flow to #4. Just a thought. 


Gordon Glasgow 
Renton, WA 
www.gordon-glasgow.org 

----- Original Message -----
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, October 7, 2011 7:48:05 AM 
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor 

Okay, I've got a question. I had my original 1500 G series motor rebuilt 
on the top and bottom end. The bottom end was done due to the #4 rod 
bearing going bad, and it scored the crank so bad, it could not be trued. So we 
pulled the crank out of a '64 1500 G motor and had it trued (supposedly). 
The motor had about 400 - 500 miles on it and all the sudden it spun 
another bearing. So what's the culprit? Bad machining, bad assembly, bad 
parts, ???? 


Gary Lasater - Parker CO 
founding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/) / 
_www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/) 
1963 SPL310-00161C (Single Carb) 
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb) 
1964 SPL310-01289 
________________________________________ 

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net 

From jover4x4 at aol.com  Fri Oct  7 10:27:29 2011
From: jover4x4 at aol.com (jover4x4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:27:29 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor
In-Reply-To: <6c1e9.1cf8325b.3bc06b25@aol.com>
References: <6c1e9.1cf8325b.3bc06b25@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9f890460-281d-4260-bd28-4d36c2be46f2@blur>

My first thought is poor machine work and improper inspection prior to  
assembly.  Block should have been checked and line bored if needed. Crank  
journals, both mains and rods checked for size.  I always double check ALL  
bearings with plastigage during assembly.   The oil galleys in the block AND  
the crank should have been cleaned prior to assembly.  If the repair was  
done in the car somwone

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Oct 7, 2011 16:07:37 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor

Okay, I've got a question.  I had my original 1500 G series motor  rebuilt 
on the top and bottom end.  The bottom end was done due to the #4  rod 
bearing going bad, and it scored the crank so bad, it could not be  trued.   
So we 
pulled the crank out of a '64 1500 G motor and had it trued  (supposedly).  
The motor had about 400 - 500 miles on it and all the sudden  it spun 
another bearing.  So what's the culprit?  Bad machining, bad  assembly, bad 
parts, ????
 
 
Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/jover4x4 at aol.com

From jake7140 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct  7 11:41:27 2011
From: jake7140 at yahoo.com (Steve Jacobson)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:41:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 137
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1317924017.6689.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21.1317924017.6689.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1318009287.35449.YahooMailNeo@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've fixed top radiator tanks on 2 of my tow vans with JB weld.  They've held
for years.  One was a dent/crease worn through from PO prolly dropping a tool
on it, second was similar. Clean it good and work it in.
 
Solder with a
bernzomatice would do well also, a little more skill involved.  Heat the
opening, then apply solder for good adhesion.  Make sure it's not a cold
joint, solder should be fairly shiny and smooth.

Steve

Steve's racing web
site
www.NoNameRacing.com
Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society
www.elrss.com
          
>From:
"vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>
>To:
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 1:11 PM
>Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
>
>The recovery tank on my '67 1600 is
leaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
from
>the seam.  No problem, says I, I
will take it to my friendly
neighborhood
>radiator shop and have it soldered.
$78 says the friendly
neighborhood
>radiator guy.  WTF?!  I don't want to buy
an new one, I just
want it soldered!
>That's how much it is, says he.
Fortunately I have the one
off the crashed
>car, so I swapped and am out
driving.  Seriously, is that
price the going
>rate?
>
>
>Russell Criswell
>Vulcan's Forge
>3936 Broadway
>Kansas City, MO
>64111
>
>816-931-6303
>816-931-9378 fax
>877-531-1046
toll-free
>www.vulcans-forge.com
>________________________________________
>
>datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/tpb73 at yahoo.com
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 11:37:50
-0400 (EDT)
From: davesmbox at aol.com
To: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com,
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
Message-ID: <8CE52550A292C4A-1AA0-28C42 at webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

and use plenty of FLUX
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>
To:
Datsun roadster <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Oct 6, 2011 11:10
am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank


Any plumber has a torch, or you
can buy them at the store, "bernzomatic".

ust be careful not to use too much
heat. A trick is to put water in, up to
ust below where you want to solder, it
keeps other things from melting.

imG


_______________________________
rom:
Pete Koernig <tpb73 at yahoo.com>
o: "vulforge at aol.com" <vulforge at aol.com>;
"datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net"
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
ent:
Wednesday, October 5, 2011 5:52 PM
ubject: Re: [Roadsters] Recovery tank
Do it
yourself with plain old solder
nd soldering iron.... or JB Weld.
ete
oernig
69
2000 about to get rid of
inoperable)
70 1600 still on blocks
hilst replacing
brake lines
________________________________
From:
vulforge at aol.com"
<vulforge at aol.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday,
October 5, 2011 1:11 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Recovery tank

The recovery tank
on my '67 1600 is
eaking at the bottom tube, and maybe
rom
the seam.  No
problem, says I, I
ill take it to my friendly
eighborhood
radiator shop and
have it soldered.
78 says the friendly
eighborhood
radiator guy.  WTF?!  I
don't want to buy
n new one, I just
ant it soldered!
That's how much it is,
says he.
ortunately I have the one
ff the crashed
car, so I swapped and am out
riving.  Seriously, is that
rice the going
rate?


Russell Criswell
Vulcan's
Forge
3936 Broadway
Kansas City, MO
64111

816-931-6303
816-931-9378 fax
877-531-1046
oll-free
www.vulcans-forge.com
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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onate:
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orums:
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_______________________________________
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------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Datsun-roadsters mailing list
Datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters


End of
Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 137
************************************************

From jover4x4 at aol.com  Fri Oct  7 12:18:57 2011
From: jover4x4 at aol.com (jover4x4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 12:18:57 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor
In-Reply-To: <9f890460-281d-4260-bd28-4d36c2be46f2@blur>
References: <6c1e9.1cf8325b.3bc06b25@aol.com>
	<9f890460-281d-4260-bd28-4d36c2be46f2@blur>
Message-ID: <1b1bf631-d801-4510-87f0-b8a6014e0eed@blur>

My prior email was sent before I could finish.  If the repair was done in  
the car some of these steps were possibly not done.  In addition the rod  
should have been checked and resized if needed.  

Just my thoughts.

John Over
Wycroc
Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: "jover4x4 at aol.com" <jover4x4 at aol.com>
To: BARTERDUDE at aol.com, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Oct 7, 2011 18:04:54 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor

My first thought is poor machine work and improper inspection prior to  
assembly.  Block should have been checked and line bored if needed. Crank  
journals, both mains and rods checked for size.  I always double check ALL  
bearings with plastigage during assembly.   The oil galleys in the block AND  
 
the crank should have been cleaned prior to assembly.  If the repair was  
done in the car somwone

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Oct 7, 2011 16:07:37 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor

Okay, I've got a question.  I had my original 1500 G series motor  rebuilt 
on the top and bottom end.  The bottom end was done due to the #4  rod 
bearing going bad, and it scored the crank so bad, it could not be  trued.    

So we 
pulled the crank out of a '64 1500 G motor and had it trued  (supposedly).  
The motor had about 400 - 500 miles on it and all the sudden  it spun 
another bearing.  So what's the culprit?  Bad machining, bad  assembly, bad 
parts, ????
 
 
Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_ (http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/jover4x4 at aol.com
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Fri Oct  7 14:19:17 2011
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 20:19:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] High/tall windshields
In-Reply-To: <FB1A7B3FE5304F449C60BDD1D33BB166136F863135@ei-postmaster.EI.Electroimpact.com>
Message-ID: <304437920.352695.1318018757060.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Forwarded.....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carter Boad" <CarterB at Electroimpact.com>
To: "BLUEBIRDS" <bluebirds at bluebirds.datsun510.com>
Sent: Friday, October 7, 2011 11:08:32 AM
Subject: datsun windshields


Half on-topic, half off-topic.

On-topic:

510 windshields. The guy I get my windshields from: Richard Tankel
info at prosourceglassintl.com , has some 510 windshields scattered around the
country at various depots. You can pick them up at a depot for much less than
the cost of shipping one directly to your place. Drop him a line to see if he
has one near you.

Off-topic:

Roadster windshields. He also has a number of tall roadster windshields.
Hebs looking to help a guy out with freight charges by combining a shipment
out to the NW. Dan at Rallye Enterprises http://www.datsunroadster.com/ in
Blaine, WA needs one. If someone in the roadster scene can post something in
an appropriate forum, it would help out Dan, Richard, and whatever other
Datsun enthusiasts join in.


Thanks!
--carter

Richardbs business contact info is below:

ProSource Glass International
Toll Free:877-345-2800
978-975-5400
Fax: 978-975-5300
Cell: 978-790-4657
Website: www.prosourceglassintl.com

From poontang188 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  7 14:21:50 2011
From: poontang188 at hotmail.com (Scott Sheeler)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 16:21:50 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Part Needed
Message-ID: <BAY164-W25F81C7478D22CC7C50FF1FCFE0@phx.gbl>

Does anyone have a new 1967 1/2 original top boot available.  A friend would
like one (yeah, I know).

Thanks.

Scott Sheeler
http://thedatsunroadsterbook.com/

From wilrobasy at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  7 18:37:33 2011
From: wilrobasy at hotmail.com (Wilrobasy)
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 10:37:33 +1000
Subject: [Roadsters] Looking for right side qtr glass frame for 1600 low
	screen
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP421CA610B04F02EEC96B8CDA9FF0@phx.gbl>

Hi everyone
As per the topic I am looking for the right side qtr window frame for my low
screen 1966 1600.

Mine is cracked so looking at replacement options before I go down the path of
welding and rechrome.

If anyone could assist in finding one of these would appreciate it greatly.

Regards

Robert

From BARTERDUDE at aol.com  Sun Oct  9 11:30:37 2011
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com (BARTERDUDE at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 13:30:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor
Message-ID: <3579a.1fa2bfa4.3bc3343d@aol.com>

Sorry - forgot to mention that the bearing spun is NOT the #4, it's a  
different bearing.  
 
Gary
 
 
In a message dated 10/7/2011 10:19:52 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
gsglasgow at comcast.net writes:

Did you rod  out all the oil passages in the block? Something may be 
obstructing oil flow  to #4. Just a thought.

Gordon Glasgow
Renton,  WA
www.gordon-glasgow.org


 
____________________________________
From: BARTERDUDE at aol.com
To:  datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 7, 2011  7:48:05 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] 1500 G series motor

Okay,  I've got a question.  I had my original 1500 G series motor  rebuilt 
 
on the top and bottom end.  The bottom end was done due to the #4  rod 
bearing going bad, and it scored the crank so bad, it could not  be  trued. 
 So we 
pulled the crank out of a '64 1500 G motor and  had it trued  (supposedly). 
 
The motor had about 400 - 500 miles  on it and all the sudden  it spun 
another bearing.  So what's  the culprit?  Bad machining, bad  assembly, 
bad 
parts,  ????


Gary Lasater  - Parker CO
founding member  _www.WyCROC.org_ (http://www.wycroc.org/)  / 
_www.ZRoad.org_  (http://www.zroad.org/)  
1963 SPL310-00161C  (Single  Carb)
1963 SPL310-00289B (Single Carb)
1964  SPL310-01289
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

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From mingocast at gmail.com  Mon Oct 10 17:31:49 2011
From: mingocast at gmail.com (Domingo Castilleja)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 18:31:49 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
Message-ID: <CAANUdMJcZEkCyy8WjXAHm3cFn=BiW+OyZAC6E8R-qQ98KJehGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a brass connector that goes underneath the carburetor used
for vacuum advance connection. I need it for a 1970 datsun spl311.
1970roadster

From aultgc at att.net  Mon Oct 10 21:45:27 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:45:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
References: <CAANUdMJcZEkCyy8WjXAHm3cFn=BiW+OyZAC6E8R-qQ98KJehGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7DCF5583D4194B7F9B9557DE1B6EC18D@gaxp1>

Unfortunately, I think the part, which is pressed into the throttle body, is 
not available separately.  You may need to find a junk throttle body to 
salvage the little nipple.  Keith Olan may be able to help.

Or, you might contact Z-Therapy, a well-known rebuilder of Hitchi SU carbs. 
They may e will to provide the part, ot to repair your throttle body.  (I 
know they'll be happy to completely rebuild your throttle bodies, but, 
though worthwhile, it's pretty pricey.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Domingo Castilleja" <mingocast at gmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:31 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector


> Does anyone have a brass connector that goes underneath the carburetor 
> used
> for vacuum advance connection. I need it for a 1970 datsun spl311.
> 1970roadster
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From usagreen at aol.com  Mon Oct 10 23:28:51 2011
From: usagreen at aol.com (usagreen at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 01:28:51 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
Message-ID: <ABF8A2CB-29D8-4078-8599-C414ACD8BFFF@aol.com>

I'm looking for. Good body for an early 1967 anyone have one 

Scott 702-622-1175 

Thanks 

LIFE IS GOOD

From usagreen at aol.com  Tue Oct 11 06:04:56 2011
From: usagreen at aol.com (usagreen at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:04:56 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Garage kept 1968 for over 31 years for sale
Message-ID: <F76A6F12-F27A-404E-B0A7-28CF404C5AC5@aol.com>

I have a partially disassembled 1968 that has been in a climate controlled
garage  for 31 years body is in great shape , looking to sell  mainly the
interior has been taken apart everything in engine compartment is perfect
shape
I would be willing to do some trading for a EARLY 1967 does not need to have a
motor or tranny mostly looking for a great body as we are doing a complete
frame off and need a better body then the one we have

Call or email me any questions
USAGREEN at aol.com    702-622-1175
Scott

From timbob_fisher at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 11 09:08:38 2011
From: timbob_fisher at yahoo.com (tim fisher)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:08:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
In-Reply-To: <7DCF5583D4194B7F9B9557DE1B6EC18D@gaxp1>
References: <CAANUdMJcZEkCyy8WjXAHm3cFn=BiW+OyZAC6E8R-qQ98KJehGQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<7DCF5583D4194B7F9B9557DE1B6EC18D@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <1318345718.96401.YahooMailNeo@web120611.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Just a thought...I have an old Yamaha and have seen Hitachi carb parts on Bike
Bandit.com..FWIW...



________________________________
From: Gary and Cindy
Ault <aultgc at att.net>
To: Domingo Castilleja <mingocast at gmail.com>;
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector

Unfortunately, I
think the part, which is pressed into the throttle body, is not available
separately.  You may need to find a junk throttle body to salvage the little
nipple.  Keith Olan may be able to help.

Or, you might contact Z-Therapy, a
well-known rebuilder of Hitchi SU carbs. They may e will to provide the part,
ot to repair your throttle body.  (I know they'll be happy to completely
rebuild your throttle bodies, but, though worthwhile, it's pretty pricey.
Gary

----- Original Message ----- From: "Domingo Castilleja"
<mingocast at gmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday,
October 10, 2011 6:31 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor
Connector


> Does anyone have a brass connector that goes underneath the
carburetor used
> for vacuum advance connection. I need it for a 1970 datsun
spl311.
> 1970roadster
> ________________________________________
> 
>
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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________________________________________

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m

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Tue Oct 11 12:11:59 2011
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:11:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
Message-ID: <48fed.3db638a2.3bc5e0ef@aol.com>

Hello all,
 
    What I have done is take a 5mm screw, like the dome  screws and turned 
it on the lathe to make a screw in nipple. The fun part is gun  drilling it 
from end to end. Make sure your carb has the hole for the hose barb.  You 
might accidentally have two front carbs. It has happened. 
 
 
In a message dated 10/10/2011 10:25:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
aultgc at att.net writes:

Unfortunately, I think the part, which is pressed into the throttle  body, 
is 
not available separately.  You may need to find a junk  throttle body to 
salvage the little nipple.  Keith Olan may be able  to help.

Or, you might contact Z-Therapy, a well-known rebuilder of  Hitchi SU 
carbs. 
They may e will to provide the part, ot to repair your  throttle body.  (I 
know they'll be happy to completely rebuild your  throttle bodies, but, 
though worthwhile, it's pretty  pricey.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Domingo  Castilleja" <mingocast at gmail.com>
To:  <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:31  PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector


>  Does anyone have a brass connector that goes underneath the carburetor  
> used
> for vacuum advance connection. I need it for a 1970  datsun spl311.
> 1970roadster
>  ________________________________________
>
>  datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe: 
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From krismon at ongbongan.com  Tue Oct 11 19:17:25 2011
From: krismon at ongbongan.com (Krismon ongbongan)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 18:17:25 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] windscreens
Message-ID: <CAHzNKbiDQ9fqZ7NMSrEvK_Q9Aq2iqRAy3hQb=EtCFzS0KxE0pQ@mail.gmail.com>

I was looking at potentially making a windscreen out of perforated steel..
Any thoughts?

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DKJQH2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mysantacom-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B003DKJQH2

Maybe powdercoated? Rivet on some snaps or weld tabs onto the rollbar?

Kris.

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Oct 11 19:35:12 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 20:35:12 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
References: <CAANUdMJcZEkCyy8WjXAHm3cFn=BiW+OyZAC6E8R-qQ98KJehGQ@mail.gmail.com>,
	<7DCF5583D4194B7F9B9557DE1B6EC18D@gaxp1>
	<SNT106-W29DC937F63D03AE5303BDDFE20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <25181859890D45EB8AAD26BB5A413AD0@gaxp1>

Peter,

Good suggestion.  The vacuum hose can always be glued to the tubing if it is a
little loose.  How often does one need to remove the vacuum hose from both
ends?

Wait a minute.  Didn't the 1600s have brass tubing all the way to the vacuum
unit?  Or, was that just early cars?  I know the 1600 vacuum units have a
compression fitting for a tubing connection. Was the vacuum line rubber part
of the way and then tubing?

Gary
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: peter harrison
  To: Gary and Cindy Ault ; mingocast at gmail.com ; datsun
  Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 12:41 AM
  Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector


  try a hobby store - they have small brass tubing which you can bend - may
not have a nipple end  but it is not crucial

  Peter Harrison - Eliza [TOAD SAN]
  818 448 3181



  > From: aultgc at att.net
  > To: mingocast at gmail.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
  > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:45:27 -0500
  > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
  >
  > Unfortunately, I think the part, which is pressed into the throttle body,
is
  > not available separately. You may need to find a junk throttle body to
  > salvage the little nipple. Keith Olan may be able to help.
  >
  > Or, you might contact Z-Therapy, a well-known rebuilder of Hitchi SU
carbs.
  > They may e will to provide the part, ot to repair your throttle body. (I
  > know they'll be happy to completely rebuild your throttle bodies, but,
  > though worthwhile, it's pretty pricey.
  >
  > Gary
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Domingo Castilleja" <mingocast at gmail.com>
  > To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
  > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:31 PM
  > Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
  >
  >
  > > Does anyone have a brass connector that goes underneath the carburetor
  > > used
  > > for vacuum advance connection. I need it for a 1970 datsun spl311.
  > > 1970roadster
  > > ________________________________________
  > >
  > > datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
  > >
  > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > > Unsubscribe:
  > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
  > ________________________________________
  >
  > datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
  >
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/granvillecomputing at hot
mail.com

From jake7140 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 11 22:34:11 2011
From: jake7140 at yahoo.com (Steve Jacobson)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 21:34:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Finally, ELVF pics
Message-ID: <1318394051.26098.YahooMailNeo@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Finally got the 'around the paddock pics' added in with the in-car vids at
http://jakenet.homeip.net/Roadster/2011-ELVF/index.html

 
Steve

Steve's
racing web site
www.NoNameRacing.com
Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society
www.elrss.com         

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Wed Oct 12 07:53:40 2011
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:53:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
Message-ID: <66c3a.1f060153.3bc6f5e4@aol.com>

The vaccum line was steel tubing with a short piece of rubber tube at the  
carb. The original steel tube is often replaced with copper as it is much 
easier  to find. 
 
 
In a message dated 10/11/2011 8:30:20 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
aultgc at att.net writes:

Peter,

Good suggestion.  The vacuum hose can always be  glued to the tubing if it 
is a
little loose.  How often does one need  to remove the vacuum hose from both
ends?

Wait a minute.   Didn't the 1600s have brass tubing all the way to the 
vacuum
unit?   Or, was that just early cars?  I know the 1600 vacuum units have  a
compression fitting for a tubing connection. Was the vacuum line rubber  
part
of the way and then tubing?

Gary
----- Original  Message -----
From: peter harrison
To: Gary and Cindy Ault  ; mingocast at gmail.com ; datsun
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 12:41  AM
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor  Connector


try a hobby store - they have small brass tubing  which you can bend - may
not have a nipple end  but it is not  crucial

Peter Harrison - Eliza [TOAD SAN]
818 448  3181



> From: aultgc at att.net
> To:  mingocast at gmail.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon,  10 Oct 2011 22:45:27 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Vacuum  Advance Carburetor Connector
>
> Unfortunately, I  think the part, which is pressed into the throttle body,
is
>  not available separately. You may need to find a junk throttle body  to
> salvage the little nipple. Keith Olan may be able to  help.
>
> Or, you might contact Z-Therapy, a  well-known rebuilder of Hitchi SU
carbs.
> They may e will to  provide the part, ot to repair your throttle body. (I
> know  they'll be happy to completely rebuild your throttle bodies, but,
> though worthwhile, it's pretty pricey.
>
>  Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>  From: "Domingo Castilleja" <mingocast at gmail.com>
> To:  <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October  10, 2011 6:31 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor  Connector
>
>
> > Does anyone have a  brass connector that goes underneath the carburetor
> >  used
> > for vacuum advance connection. I need it for a 1970  datsun spl311.
> > 1970roadster
> >  ________________________________________
> >
>  > datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> >
> >  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
>  >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
> ________________________________________
>
>  datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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t
mail.com
________________________________________

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From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Wed Oct 12 13:52:32 2011
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 19:52:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Upcoming Event : Oct 29 -- Datsun Beach BBQ and Food
 Drive at Doheny State Beach
In-Reply-To: <816419CEE0994843B9F74ABB245F152337454A@nasanexd01d.na.qualcomm.com>
Message-ID: <1462786231.568961.1318449152440.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Forwarded......All Datsuns welcome. <g> 




Pete 






From: bluebirds-request at bluebirds.datsun510.com [mailto:bluebirds-request at bluebirds.datsun510.com] On Behalf Of Hill, Sebastian 
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 9:47 AM 
To: bluebird list 
Subject: Upcoming Event : Oct 29 -- Datsun Beach BBQ and Food Drive at Doheny State Beach 





Oct 29 -- Datsun Beach BBQ and Food Drive at Doheny State Beach 



Time: 11am to 3pm 

Where: Doheny State Beach, 25300 Dana Point Harbor Drive, Dana Point, CA 92629 

Cost: $15 per car to enter the State Beach. One can or non-perishable food items person for the food drive. 



We will be in either Picnic Area "A" or "B" ( map: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/09/uppcoming-event-doheny-datsun-bbq-and.html ) depending on which one area we can secure early in the morning. This is a *low key event* and there can be absolutely no selling of parts in the parking lot, burn outs, etc. 



Come hang out with other Datsun fans, have a burger/hot-dog/chips from the BBQ and generally have some good fun. 



Please RSVP by Oct 22nd to dohenydatsunbbq at dimequarterly.tierranet.com . Please include how many folks will be in your party. 

From vulforge at aol.com  Wed Oct 12 14:47:44 2011
From: vulforge at aol.com (vulforge at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:47:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Windscreen
Message-ID: <8CE573753D017C9-13F0-E0E4@webmail-d177.sysops.aol.com>

Why not use aluminum or stainless?  As far as mounting, you can bend a flat
strip around your roll bar, and bolt or rivet the ends through the perf.  No
need to weld tabs.


Russell Criswell
Vulcan's Forge
3936 Broadway
Kansas City, MO
64111

816-931-6303
816-931-9378 fax
877-531-1046 toll-free
www.vulcans-forge.com

From svedise at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 12 16:02:53 2011
From: svedise at hotmail.com (Jim Svedise)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 15:02:53 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Multi-State Datsun Classic
Message-ID: <BLU152-ds961397E38FDFE82DCFB7BB4E30@phx.gbl>

  Sorry if you get this twice.

  Well just got back from first ever Multi-State Datsun Classic. Chris and
gang did a great job made it look easy to host one of these events. IT WAS
GRRRRRRRRRREAT, a good time had by all. Will definitely go next year. Hope to
see more of you there. Her is some picbs of the show and train ride we did.
Hope you enjoy.

  http://community.webshots.com/album/581498525YbkgTK

  Jim & Susan
  __________________________________
  Living The Good Life South Of The Border

From svedise at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 12 21:39:26 2011
From: svedise at hotmail.com (Jim Svedise)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 20:39:26 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Multi-State Datsun Classic
In-Reply-To: <CAAC0-o7O5CL=ZZvsJUUUnazYOZP=fFeuyafH5eKRB81+m-=0EQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU152-ds961397E38FDFE82DCFB7BB4E30@phx.gbl>
	<CAAC0-o7O5CL=ZZvsJUUUnazYOZP=fFeuyafH5eKRB81+m-=0EQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU152-ds203139EA130F4FD116AF5FB4E00@phx.gbl>

Sorry about that it was held in Williams Arizona. Cars from California, 
Arizona, New Mexico, and me from Mexico and more. Put on buy the Southern 
California Datsun Roadster Owners Club. www.socalroc.net

Jim

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul Courson
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 5:22 PM
To: Jim Svedise
Cc: Datsun Club
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Multi-State Datsun Classic

Kindly name at least one of the states to help the rest of us figure
out which bunch got together ?



On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Jim Svedise <svedise at hotmail.com> wrote:
>  Sorry if you get this twice.
>
>  Well just got back from first ever Multi-State Datsun Classic. Chris and
> gang did a great job made it look easy to host one of these events. IT WAS
> GRRRRRRRRRREAT, a good time had by all. Will definitely go next year. Hope 
> to
> see more of you there. Her is some picb s of the show and train ride we 
> did.
> Hope you enjoy.
>
>  http://community.webshots.com/album/581498525YbkgTK
>
>  Jim & Susan
>  __________________________________
>  Living The Good Life South Of The Border
> ________________________________________

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 13 05:31:48 2011
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 04:31:48 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Multi-State Datsun Classic
In-Reply-To: <BLU152-ds203139EA130F4FD116AF5FB4E00@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU152-ds961397E38FDFE82DCFB7BB4E30@phx.gbl>
	<CAAC0-o7O5CL=ZZvsJUUUnazYOZP=fFeuyafH5eKRB81+m-=0EQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU152-ds203139EA130F4FD116AF5FB4E00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAHNg2dk_BSM4st=r9sHB1-=8WaxBMY4RHrWync3f4K9J8+BCHA@mail.gmail.com>

The states that participated were; CA, NV, AZ, UT, CO, NM and Mexico

ALL Datsun Show

On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Jim Svedise <svedise at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Sorry about that it was held in Williams Arizona. Cars from California,
> Arizona, New Mexico, and me from Mexico and more. Put on buy the Southern
> California Datsun Roadster Owners Club. www.socalroc.net
>
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Paul Courson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 5:22 PM
> To: Jim Svedise
> Cc: Datsun Club
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Multi-State Datsun Classic
>
> Kindly name at least one of the states to help the rest of us figure
> out which bunch got together ?
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Jim Svedise <svedise at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>  Sorry if you get this twice.
>>
>>  Well just got back from first ever Multi-State Datsun Classic. Chris and
>> gang did a great job made it look easy to host one of these events. IT WAS
>> GRRRRRRRRRREAT, a good time had by all. Will definitely go next year. Hope
>> to
>> see more of you there. Her is some picb s of the show and train ride we
>> did.
>> Hope you enjoy.
>>
>>  http://community.webshots.com/**album/581498525YbkgTK<http://community.webshots.com/album/581498525YbkgTK>
>>
>>  Jim & Susan
>>  ______________________________**____
>>  Living The Good Life South Of The Border
>> ______________________________**__________
>>
> ______________________________**__________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.**net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/datsun-roadsters/**
> fairlady66 at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/fairlady66 at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.

From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Thu Oct 13 14:41:50 2011
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 15:41:50 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Rearend suspension
Message-ID: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHAELHCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net>

I have a loud noise coming from the right rear leaf spring area when driving
and when I apply down force on the rear of the trunk. Several folks said
that there is a rubber piece where the spring attaches to the rear axle that
may be missing or wore. I'm trying to find an exploded view of those
components but to no avail. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Steb
Milwaukee

From krismon at ongbongan.com  Thu Oct 13 18:29:59 2011
From: krismon at ongbongan.com (Krismon ongbongan)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 17:29:59 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel gauge troubleshooting
Message-ID: <CAHzNKbgS5BaGH34sAY4OAvPkWVzocm=W=Sr=TeZBPA5ZjDEufQ@mail.gmail.com>

any tips on troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my '69.

background:
oil pressure, temp gauge works.. ammeter is unhooked (presumably from a
motor swap years ago).
It did "work" when I got the car earlier this year.. a Full tank showed as
1/4, now the needle doesn't even move... swapped out a voltage regulator a
couple of months back (with one from a 510) when the temp gauge & oil
pressure stopped moving.. but fuel gauge never came back.
I did have the tank pulled out to be refurbished this past spring, too...

So..now the question.. how do I tell whether it's the sender or the gauge?
easy way to probe with a multimeter?

Kris.

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Oct 13 19:43:31 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 19:43:31 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Team.Net service
Message-ID: <20111014014331.48E7C2E090@bradakis.com>

Team.Net is going away, I'm shutting it off tomorrow morning.

Okay, relax, it is only temporary.  The local power company will be
doing some maintenence and repairs in the area friday, October 14th.
Rather than risk frying some crucial piece of hardware due to random
power flucuations I'll be shutting down the servers in the morning
before I go to work.  I'll be bringing them back up friday evening
when the power line work is done.

So the email lists, amazingly outdated web pages, forums and such
will be down for most of the day.  All services should be back on
the air late friday, so be patient.

Too bad I'm not ready to cut over to the new server, this would be
a good time to do so.  Oh well, so it goes.

Thank you for your patience.

mjb.

From JohnnyRoadster at comcast.net  Thu Oct 13 20:04:42 2011
From: JohnnyRoadster at comcast.net (JohnnyRoadster)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 22:04:42 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Rearend suspension
References: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHAELHCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <A84E6AD9A0184DD5B5DC0E1DFFFA21FC@JohnLaptop>

Here is an exploded view (thanks to Gordon Glasgow) of what you want.  I 
think it is part 27, 28.  Not sure how this would fall out and start causing 
a noise?

Part #1813 over at Datsunparts.com

Good luck!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harvey" <stebharvey at ameritech.net>
To: "Datsun List" <Datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 4:41 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Rearend suspension


>I have a loud noise coming from the right rear leaf spring area when 
>driving
> and when I apply down force on the rear of the trunk. Several folks said
> that there is a rubber piece where the spring attaches to the rear axle 
> that
> may be missing or wore. I'm trying to find an exploded view of those
> components but to no avail. Any help is appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Steb
> Milwaukee

From utahltps at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 13 21:48:18 2011
From: utahltps at yahoo.com (Paul Strahl)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 20:48:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Headlights back on
Message-ID: <1318564098.54895.YahooMailNeo@web112711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the tips. Turned out to be a failed relay. I replaced it and
let there be light. Just in time. It starting to get dark early these days.
Thanks again for the tips.
 
Paul S

From aultgc at att.net  Thu Oct 13 23:30:49 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 00:30:49 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel gauge troubleshooting
References: <CAHzNKbgS5BaGH34sAY4OAvPkWVzocm=W=Sr=TeZBPA5ZjDEufQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CC2EBD10BD264AB79DFE35B6BBF2304B@gaxp1>

Krismon,

Get wiring diagram from 311s.org website, then check all connections and 
grounds.  If temperature gauge works, the problem is probably in the wiring 
from the gauge through the sender to ground, or the sender.  You can pull 
the sender via the access panel in the trunk floor and check its operation.

I am told that the standard for the fuel sending unit is 83 ohms +/_ empty 
and 12 ohms +/- Full.  If you do choose to remove the sender, be careful not 
to damage the exposed resistor windings.

I have run the wiring on my fuel gauge from the 12 volt source through the 
gauge to the sender to ground, and haven't been able to get the temp and 
fuel gauges working again.  So, patience.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Krismon ongbongan" <krismon at ongbongan.com>
To: "roadster list" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 7:29 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel gauge troubleshooting


> any tips on troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my '69.
>
> background:
> oil pressure, temp gauge works.. ammeter is unhooked (presumably from a
> motor swap years ago).
> It did "work" when I got the car earlier this year.. a Full tank showed as
> 1/4, now the needle doesn't even move... swapped out a voltage regulator a
> couple of months back (with one from a 510) when the temp gauge & oil
> pressure stopped moving.. but fuel gauge never came back.
> I did have the tank pulled out to be refurbished this past spring, too...
>
> So..now the question.. how do I tell whether it's the sender or the gauge?
> easy way to probe with a multimeter?
>
> Kris.
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From jake7140 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 14 22:19:42 2011
From: jake7140 at yahoo.com (Steve Jacobson)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 21:19:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 142
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23.1318442416.14225.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23.1318442416.14225.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1318652382.88670.YahooMailNeo@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes Gary. Just looked at my 67.5 1600: has a brass ?compression? fitting on
the carb to a hard brass tube which goes under the carb then up between the
two carbs and over the linkage heading at an angle toward the rear of the
valve cover.   The brass tube ends just after it passes over the linkage. Then
there is rubber tube from there to the dizzy.  
Steve

Steve's racing web site
www.NoNameRacing.com
Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society
www.elrss.com
    
     

________________________________
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 20:35:12 -0500
From: "Gary and Cindy Ault"
<aultgc at att.net>
To: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>,
   
<mingocast at gmail.com>, "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re:
[Roadsters] Vacuum Advance Carburetor Connector
Message-ID:
<25181859890D45EB8AAD26BB5A413AD0 at gaxp1>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"

Peter,

Good suggestion.  The vacuum hose can always be
glued to the tubing if it is a
little loose.  How often does one need to
remove the vacuum hose from both
ends?

Wait a minute.  Didn't the 1600s have
brass tubing all the way to the vacuum
unit?  Or, was that just early cars?  I
know the 1600 vacuum units have a
compression fitting for a tubing connection.
Was the vacuum line rubber part
of the way and then tubing?

Gary

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Oct 15 12:42:18 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 14:42:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] SRL 13825
Message-ID: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>

Earlier this year I pulled the motor to do the clutch and found swiss 
cheese in the frame. Since this car was bought to drive while (trying) 
to restore my Dad's Roadster, I have no attachment to it and will not be 
putting any more money into it as it has already taken too much from 
Dad's Roadster. The motor runs great by the way.

Before I start to part it out, I thought I would check to see if any one 
here has any interest in this VIN (want to own the car with this VIN)?

Thanks

Tim

From vulforge at aol.com  Sat Oct 15 14:52:35 2011
From: vulforge at aol.com (vulforge at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 16:52:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Troubleshooting gas gauge
Message-ID: <8CE59938014F165-1654-541D9@webmail-m171.sysops.aol.com>

If I recall correctly, grounding the sender wire (ignition on) should peg the
meter.


Russell Criswell
Vulcan's Forge
3936 Broadway
Kansas City, MO
64111

816-931-6303
816-931-9378 fax
877-531-1046 toll-free
www.vulcans-forge.com

From gjhgerding at tconl.com  Sat Oct 15 18:08:55 2011
From: gjhgerding at tconl.com (Gary)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 19:08:55 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] restoration
In-Reply-To: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
References: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>

I'm thinking about doing a body off restoration of my 1967 SPL311, but am
afraid the costs will get out of hand after get in too deeply to quit.  Any
suggestions? GaryG

From roadster at astound.net  Sat Oct 15 19:24:22 2011
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:24:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Jimmy's Car Show and Picnic SF GG Park
Message-ID: <87A366C8-57D0-46E4-835B-208023D6370E@astound.net>

Couldn't attend Jimmy's 23rd Annual Old Car Show and Picnic at San Francisco
Golden Gate Park this year, a lot of family things going on. However, Annie
and I were able to drop by and check it out today.

Sadly, only one roadster! Usually we can get a half-dozen Datsuns together
each year, but not this time. A 1969 2000 red roadster with historical car
license plate. Anyone on the list? Couldn't find the owner, probably walking
around checking out the other 500 cars. Did see a 1978 Datsun B-210 and
chatted with the owner, A.J. Don't see too many B-210s nowadays, been in his
family since he was a kid and he has two. Here's a couple pics of the
roadster.

http://gallery.me.com/katzfred#100121/IMG_1845&bgcolor=black

Fred - So.SF

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sat Oct 15 19:38:32 2011
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:38:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] restoration
In-Reply-To: <4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
References: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
	<4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
Message-ID: <070DB417-94A5-442C-AB2F-1321FA8BB93F@netscape.net>

1.Ask what it cost others.
2.Be prepared to spend way more than you will ever get out of it
3 Go slowly and shop fir parts
4 Do most of the work yourself
5 Risk getting burned out, frustrated, or out of cash and selling the whole
thing in the middle of it all.
Conclusion:
1. Don't do it
2 Do it anyway
Your choice!

Linda


Sent from my iPod

On Oct 15, 2011, at 5:08 PM, Gary <gjhgerding at tconl.com> wrote:

> I'm thinking about doing a body off restoration of my 1967 SPL311, but am
> afraid the costs will get out of hand after get in too deeply to quit.  Any
> suggestions? GaryG
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ljordan704 at netscape.ne
t

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sat Oct 15 09:28:54 2011
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:28:54 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] restoration
In-Reply-To: <4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
References: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
	<4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
Message-ID: <002801cc8b4f$2853ce80$78fb6b80$@net>

Do, or do not. There is no try. - Yoda

Seriously, figure the costs and/or tasks for what you want to accomplish on
a frame off, then figure again for worst case scenario. 

IMO, if you're worried, then don't start.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 5:09 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] restoration

I'm thinking about doing a body off restoration of my 1967 SPL311, but am
afraid the costs will get out of hand after get in too deeply to quit.  Any
suggestions? GaryG
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ppeters914 at comcast.ne
t

From boakes at gmail.com  Sat Oct 15 21:34:27 2011
From: boakes at gmail.com (Bill Oakes)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 22:34:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] restoration
In-Reply-To: <070DB417-94A5-442C-AB2F-1321FA8BB93F@netscape.net>
References: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
	<4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
	<070DB417-94A5-442C-AB2F-1321FA8BB93F@netscape.net>
Message-ID: <7826740A-E7F4-4947-832A-DCB4A063644F@gmail.com>

Also, don't forget:

- Everything takes longer than it does.





On Oct 15, 2011, at 8:38 PM, ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote:

> 1.Ask what it cost others.
> 2.Be prepared to spend way more than you will ever get out of it
> 3 Go slowly and shop fir parts
> 4 Do most of the work yourself
> 5 Risk getting burned out, frustrated, or out of cash and selling the whole
> thing in the middle of it all.
> Conclusion:
> 1. Don't do it
> 2 Do it anyway
> Your choice!
>
> Linda
>
>
> Sent from my iPod
>
> On Oct 15, 2011, at 5:08 PM, Gary <gjhgerding at tconl.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking about doing a body off restoration of my 1967 SPL311, but am
>> afraid the costs will get out of hand after get in too deeply to quit.
Any
>> suggestions? GaryG
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ljordan704 at netscape.ne
> t
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/boakes at gmail.com

From mark at dealermats.com  Sun Oct 16 07:53:12 2011
From: mark at dealermats.com (Mark Dent)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 09:53:12 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] restoration
In-Reply-To: <4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
References: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
	<4E9A2097.2060302@tconl.com>
Message-ID: <46299778-6382-4CA3-8142-7C1FC9940BFD@dealermats.com>

I guess the main question is it depends on what the final goal is.  If it is a
fully restored car that can get expensive, especially if paying someone else.
If you want a very, very nice car, a body on refresh can accomplish that.  Can
you do any work yourself? Is it a good running, driving car now? How is the
body?

I am going to assume it is a good driving car that is a little tired and needs
a little body work and give you my suggestions from there.  Also remember you
see all of the flaws of your own car, no one else does.  Most people just see
a cool old car.

The main thing is to have a plan, and a budget before you start.  Here is my
version of a budget "refresh"

Winter months:

One of the most important things is to keep it a running car as long as you
can while taking it apart, just to make it easy to move around.

I would strip all of the exterior trim, chrome and bits.  I would also take
out most of the interior.  This is so the car can be painted.  Painting is
more in the prep, not the actual painting.  There are plenty of body guys that
will do side work, try an ad on craigslist to find one.  Hopefully they can do
it on the weekend, at your place, for cash.  Leave the drivetrain in at this
point.

Once that is done find a shop that does paint jobs, not just insurance work.
I am completely serious when I say a quickie paint place can do a good job of
painting a stripped car.  I have seen cars with $200 paint jobs that look
great because there was nothing to mask around or prep, it was just shoot
paint.  Have them do the car, trunk, door jambs, and back side of hood, not
the engine bay (remember the motor is in)  Picking a common color helps when
you go to do the engine bay (a few steps from now)

One big issue is the chrome parts.  The problem becomes when you chrome some
and not others.  Either get a good grill, bumpers, headlight scoops and lights
and polish them so they are all the same caliber, or you need to get it all
chromed.  New bumpers and old headlight scoops will look odd.  New gaskets
(and lenses if needed) for the tail lights work wonders. A good set of tail
lights, polished with new gaskets, are usually close enough.

Buy a complete interior kit from one of the vendors.  Easy way to get the
interior back to being nice.

After you get the car back from paint, put the interior kit in and assemble
the rest of the body bits (chrome, trim, grill, etc.)

It will probably be summer by now.

Drive the car for the season.

Next winter:

Pull the drivetrain from the car being careful not to mess up your new paint!

Strip down the engine bay, pull master cylinders, lines and wiring.

paint as much of the frame as you can with black frame paint, brushing it on
is fine.  Get as close of a match of the cars paint in spray cans, ones from
auto parts stores work best.  Close works, once all of the stuff is back in no
one will notice.  Most people do not realize that cars usually do not have the
same paint under the hood.  Don't believe it? go look under the hood of any
car in your driveway.  Mask off the fenders and frame and spray the engine bay
to match.

Refresh the motor as much as you would like, usually paint and polish will be
enough.

Reassemble.

That's it.  At that point you will have a very nice vintage car for a
reasonable cost. One that you can just enjoy for years.

I see the budget as follows:

Painting: Figure $2000 total for some body prep and paint, remember it's not a
show car. Seriously, the quick $300 jobs can look great with new interior, new
chrome, etc.
Interior:  Dean has a kit for $1100 for everything except the dash. Dash is
$350, so lets say $1600 in case you need a few odds and ends.
Chrome: If your rear tail light chrome is good, you can get gaskets and lenses
for about $100.  All new lights and reflectors for $375 or so.  Bumpers,
headlight scoops and grill, figure $1000 in chrome so say $1500 if it needs it
all.

At this point you will have a car with new paint, interior, and chrome for
$5100 and some time.  That is if it all needs to be replaced.  I would do it
that way.  New paint can make a worn interior look worse, so at the minimum I
would do paint and interior.  New paint and interior with new taillight
lenses, door handle and tail light  gaskets and polished up chrome can look
great also so it can be done for less.

Good luck.

Mark













On Oct 15, 2011, at 8:08 PM, Gary wrote:

> I'm thinking about doing a body off restoration of my 1967 SPL311, but am
> afraid the costs will get out of hand after get in too deeply to quit.  Any
> suggestions? GaryG
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/mark at dealermats.com

From roadster at astound.net  Sun Oct 16 12:55:20 2011
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:55:20 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Jimmy's Car Show and Picnic SF GG Park
In-Reply-To: <CAAC0-o5o8KYnOa90qhP_4yi9628WaDqE=jfW4sXKgghMgNN_Eg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <87A366C8-57D0-46E4-835B-208023D6370E@astound.net>
	<CAAC0-o5o8KYnOa90qhP_4yi9628WaDqE=jfW4sXKgghMgNN_Eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51EFE28E-327B-4878-94AD-25D823905489@astound.net>

My mom had a B-210 brand new. Would have been nice to still have it because
they're rare, but another driver totaled it while it was parked, like 8 months
after my mom bought it. She then got a 610. My wife bought a 1200 (B-110)
fastback new in 1973, we had it in the family until mid-1990s.  Cost her
$2350, guess she got her money's worth out of it! We would drive it from SF to
Lake Tahoe over the Sierra Nevada, and it would struggle to keep going at the
high elevations with that 1200cc engine. When we had 3 or 4 people in the car,
it struggled to hit 55 going over the mountains!

Next year, if the show is still on, I'll be sure to send out notice of the
show and see if we can make a strong roadster presence. The show has been up
in the air the last few years due to eco-liberal politicians in SF saying cars
don't belong in the park. But the founders of the show, actual groundskeepers
at the park, always manage to get thousands of people to sign petitions to
allow the show to be reinstated. Despite the loons here, there are lots of
normal people with old classics in their garages. Over 500 cars show up every
year for good times with a picnic and raffles.

Fred - SF, CA
66 2L

On Oct 16, 2011, at 7:10 AM, Paul Courson <cour.jpeg at gmail.com> wrote:

> Tnx for the shots. Been to that park and even before I knew about
> "Jimmy's" I said it'd be a great place for a drive show.
>
> I like how they gave that baby plenty of room, almost as if they were
> expecting company.
> Yeah that's too bad more didn't show, especially since you get the
> impression there are a lot of active roadster owners in the Bay area.
> B-210 !  Seemed like a silly little car when they were new. Drove one
> from Maryland to Ohio. Impressed at the fuel economy, but it wouldn't
> even do a hill near Cumberland.  Downshifting only raised the engine
> speed, not the forward speed, huh-HA !
>
> A friend of mine whose Dad owned a Datsun dealership had a 1200. It
> was the first car I ever went 90mph in. Flat terrain of course. Itty
> bitty little 12-in factory wheels and probably bias-ply tires. I think
> it was a '72.  Man those cars took a lot of punishment and didn't even
> say "uh!"
>
> On Sat, Oct 15, 2011 at 9:24 PM, Fred Katz <roadster at astound.net> wrote:
>> Couldn't attend Jimmy's 23rd Annual Old Car Show and Picnic at San
Francisco
>> Golden Gate Park this year, a lot of family things going on. However,
Annie
>> and I were able to drop by and check it out today.
>>
>> Sadly, only one roadster! Usually we can get a half-dozen Datsuns together
>> each year, but not this time. A 1969 2000 red roadster with historical car
>> license plate. Anyone on the list? Couldn't find the owner, probably
walking
>> around checking out the other 500 cars. Did see a 1978 Datsun B-210 and
>> chatted with the owner, A.J. Don't see too many B-210s nowadays, been in
his
>> family since he was a kid and he has two. Here's a couple pics of the
>> roadster.
>>
>> http://gallery.me.com/katzfred#100121/IMG_1845&bgcolor=black
>>
>> Fred - So.SF

From roadster68 at shaw.ca  Sun Oct 16 13:26:07 2011
From: roadster68 at shaw.ca (Larry Dziuba)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:26:07 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] SRL 13825
References: <2391fe3.1625d7.13308e448c9.Webtop.47@charter.net>
Message-ID: <2691ECA7AEE043759F6F1C7B1D6F0111@useravjfzd6udp>

In what part of North America do you live? Larry.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 12:42 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] SRL 13825


> Earlier this year I pulled the motor to do the clutch and found swiss
> cheese in the frame. Since this car was bought to drive while (trying)
> to restore my Dad's Roadster, I have no attachment to it and will not be
> putting any more money into it as it has already taken too much from
> Dad's Roadster. The motor runs great by the way.
>
> Before I start to part it out, I thought I would check to see if any one
> here has any interest in this VIN (want to own the car with this VIN)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/roadster68 at shaw.ca

From tputland at charter.net  Mon Oct 17 15:56:31 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 17:56:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods
Message-ID: <6c8e001a.175f50.13313e2cf8e.Webtop.49@charter.net>

Back to my dilema folks....I still need U20 rods as I now have FOUR 
different weights in 10 U20 rods:

I have three rods marked 2-1 25540 that are 909 grams.
I have one rod marked 3-2 25540 that is 931 grams.
I have three rods marked 2-3 25540 that are 947 grams.
I have two rods marked 5-0 25540 that are 965 grams.

So, I need to make a set of four. Any one have a single rod that could 
fill one of my "three" sets?

Help

tim

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Mon Oct 17 17:47:00 2011
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 23:47:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods
In-Reply-To: <6c8e001a.175f50.13313e2cf8e.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <356019798.659990.1318895220384.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Why not just have them balanced? 


Gordon Glasgow 
Renton, WA 
www.gordon-glasgow.org 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net> 
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:56:31 PM 
Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods 

Back to my dilema folks....I still need U20 rods as I now have FOUR 
different weights in 10 U20 rods: 

I have three rods marked 2-1 25540 that are 909 grams. 
I have one rod marked 3-2 25540 that is 931 grams. 
I have three rods marked 2-3 25540 that are 947 grams. 
I have two rods marked 5-0 25540 that are 965 grams. 

So, I need to make a set of four. Any one have a single rod that could 
fill one of my "three" sets? 

Help 

tim 
________________________________________ 

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net 

From tputland at charter.net  Mon Oct 17 18:37:57 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 20:37:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods
Message-ID: <176a0c4d.17819e.13314769a90.Webtop.49@charter.net>

  My machinist is telling me it is too much to remove.

I will look at the Bob Sharpe manual tomorrow and see what it says.

Tim

On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 6:47 PM, Gordon Glasgow wrote:

  Why not just have them balanced?

Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
www.gordon-glasgow.org

___________________________________

From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:56:31 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods

Back to my dilema folks....I still need U20 rods as I now have FOUR
different weights in 10 U20 rods:

I have three rods marked 2-1 25540 that are 909 grams.
I have one rod marked 3-2 25540 that is 931 grams.
I have three rods marked 2-3 25540 that are 947 grams.
I have two rods marked 5-0 25540 that are 965 grams.

So, I need to make a set of four. Any one have a single rod that could
fill one of my "three" sets?

Help

tim
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net

From slowboy at cox.net  Mon Oct 17 20:56:44 2011
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 19:56:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 1966 Datsun SPL For Sale
Message-ID: <000001cc8d41$91d07450$b5715cf0$@cox.net>

I am selling my '66 SPL, please follow link for information.

 

Thank you.

 

Jim

 

http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6
<http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14883> &t=14883

From msedlack at neo.rr.com  Tue Oct 18 08:20:52 2011
From: msedlack at neo.rr.com (Mark Sedlack)
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 10:20:52 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods
References: <176a0c4d.17819e.13314769a90.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <8C33F8B8AE3C4540817CD071C6E53BE8@p53ghzduo>

see if you can balance the rotating parts as assemblies - i.e. rods, pins, 
pistons, & rings together.

You can mix & match parts to help reduce the differentials.  For example, 
group the lightest piston with the heaviest rod and vice versa.  you might 
find the assembly weights close enough to allow removal of an acceptable 
amount of material to balance them all.  Pistons typically have weight 
blocks cast in where quite a bit of material can be removed. Not sure if 
this is the case on U20 though.

Mark Sedlack
ZROC
Clinton, OH
66 1600 http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
77 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods


>  My machinist is telling me it is too much to remove.
>
> I will look at the Bob Sharpe manual tomorrow and see what it says.
>
> Tim
>
> On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 6:47 PM, Gordon Glasgow wrote:
>
>  Why not just have them balanced?
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> Renton, WA
> www.gordon-glasgow.org
>
> ___________________________________
>
> From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
> To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:56:31 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Still need U2O rods
>
> Back to my dilema folks....I still need U20 rods as I now have FOUR
> different weights in 10 U20 rods:
>
> I have three rods marked 2-1 25540 that are 909 grams.
> I have one rod marked 3-2 25540 that is 931 grams.
> I have three rods marked 2-3 25540 that are 947 grams.
> I have two rods marked 5-0 25540 that are 965 grams.
>
> So, I need to make a set of four. Any one have a single rod that could
> fill one of my "three" sets?
>
> Help
>
> tim
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/msedlack at neo.rr.com

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Oct 19 13:27:05 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 15:27:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] flywheels
Message-ID: <323cbff.18fad8.1331da6b856.Webtop.44@charter.net>

Is there a visual difference between the R16 and U20 flywheels please?
Thanks
tim

From davesmbox at aol.com  Wed Oct 19 14:56:06 2011
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:56:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay
Message-ID: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>

I always get confused when a nice complete car in good shape sells for $3000
but when a semi restored car with a nice paint job is over $8000 with an
asking price more than twice that.
The 70 is as unique as the 67 1/2. If you are doing a frame off and want top
dollar. I believe it should be done right
Put the side trim on
Put the side markers on (correct rectangle ones for the 70 )
Put the rear reflectors unique to the 70 on.
Spring for the correct exhaust system.

Just if are going to do a frame off do it right. If you are building a custom
for yourself that is fine too. Just don't claim a Savant as a Monet

JUST MY HUMBLE OPINION

I am going to put on my asbestos suit for the flames on my posting

Dave

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Oct 19 15:21:32 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:21:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] flywheels
Message-ID: <1964f10a.190cfb.1331e0f8139.Webtop.47@charter.net>

Never mind. I finally found my R16 flywheel. It is obvioulsy different 
than my two U20s.

Thanks
tim

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Wed Oct 19 15:38:38 2011
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 21:38:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] flywheels
In-Reply-To: <323cbff.18fad8.1331da6b856.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Message-ID: <2009989432.764525.1319060318868.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes. Twelve bolts on the U20 vs six on the R16. 


Gordon Glasgow 
Renton, WA 
www.gordon-glasgow.org 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net> 
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 12:27:05 PM 
Subject: [Roadsters] flywheels 

Is there a visual difference between the R16 and U20 flywheels please? 
Thanks 
tim 
________________________________________ 

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net 

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Wed Oct 19 16:39:27 2011
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 15:39:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] flywheels
In-Reply-To: <323cbff.18fad8.1331da6b856.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4E9EEF2F.9374.173859E@localhost>

> Is there a visual difference between the R16 and U20 flywheels please?

I believe the R16 has 6 bolts and the U20 uses 12...

-- John

From gkmcc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 19 17:18:41 2011
From: gkmcc at sbcglobal.net (Gary McCormick)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:18:41 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay
In-Reply-To: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E9F5AD1.5010208@sbcglobal.net>


From tputland at charter.net  Wed Oct 19 17:31:29 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 19:31:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] flywheels
Message-ID: <6c6cb367.192434.1331e867891.Webtop.47@charter.net>

Too funny, I sent this hours before I finally see it posted.


On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 4:21 PM, Tim wrote:

> Never mind. I finally found my R16 flywheel. It is obvioulsy different 
> than my two U20s.
>
> Thanks
> tim
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/tputland at charter.net

From ken__pearce at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 19 17:39:43 2011
From: ken__pearce at hotmail.com (The Ken Pearce)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:39:43 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay
In-Reply-To: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY146-W6475D23EF399778CC97DE4AFEA0@phx.gbl>

It's the very rare 1970 "factory option" CD exchanger that probably calls for
the high reserve...  or perhaps the even more sought after blue leather /
black dash combo that had to be ordered special.  ;)

It's worth whatever someone will pay for it...  ;)  And things aren't always
what they seem in Ebay-land...  as in legit bids...  or not...

I like to see the value of our cars increase so I wish them well in getting
their $18k, but I'm guessing it won't bring quite that much.

kp



> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> From: davesmbox at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:56:06 -0400
> Subject: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay
>
> I always get confused when a nice complete car in good shape sells for
$3000
> but when a semi restored car with a nice paint job is over $8000 with an
> asking price more than twice that.
> The 70 is as unique as the 67 1/2. If you are doing a frame off and want
top
> dollar. I believe it should be done right
> Put the side trim on
> Put the side markers on (correct rectangle ones for the 70 )
> Put the rear reflectors unique to the 70 on.
> Spring for the correct exhaust system.
>
> Just if are going to do a frame off do it right. If you are building a
custom
> for yourself that is fine too. Just don't claim a Savant as a Monet
>
> JUST MY HUMBLE OPINION
>
> I am going to put on my asbestos suit for the flames on my posting
>
> Dave
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ken__pearce at hotmail.co
m

From roadster at astound.net  Wed Oct 19 19:07:24 2011
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 18:07:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay
In-Reply-To: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <B4A23BDD-5E71-4A7E-95CC-1979219E2F53@astound.net>

Uh okay..., but I wouldn't put it in the same category as a 67-1/2. I have a
1970 1600, and the first thing I did was to remove the overside rear
reflectors. I think they're butt-ugly and diminish the otherwise clean looks
of the rear.

I'll have to agree about prices, it all depends on who's looking at the time
they are sold. I've seen some nice rides go for a lot less than others that
don't warrant as high a price. Some people put a lot of love (and money) in
their roadsters and practically gave them away.

Fred

On Oct 19, 2011, at 1:56 PM, davesmbox at aol.com wrote:

> I always get confused when a nice complete car in good shape sells for
$3000
> but when a semi restored car with a nice paint job is over $8000 with an
> asking price more than twice that.
> The 70 is as unique as the 67 1/2. If you are doing a frame off and want
top
> dollar. I believe it should be done right
> Put the side trim on
> Put the side markers on (correct rectangle ones for the 70 )
> Put the rear reflectors unique to the 70 on.
> Spring for the correct exhaust system.
>
> Just if are going to do a frame off do it right. If you are building a
custom
> for yourself that is fine too. Just don't claim a Savant as a Monet
>
> JUST MY HUMBLE OPINION
>
> I am going to put on my asbestos suit for the flames on my posting
>
> Dave
> ________________________________________

From robbieharrison at comcast.net  Thu Oct 20 08:47:09 2011
From: robbieharrison at comcast.net (Robbie Harrison)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:47:09 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay
In-Reply-To: <B4A23BDD-5E71-4A7E-95CC-1979219E2F53@astound.net>
References: <8CE5CB8A79799B8-1108-883B@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
	<B4A23BDD-5E71-4A7E-95CC-1979219E2F53@astound.net>
Message-ID: <003001cc8f37$2b4c84b0$81e58e10$@comcast.net>

I stopped in and looked at the roadster in question a couple months ago at
Napoli Motors in Milford, CT. It looked to me like a very nice driver,
certainly not even close to a "restored to factory condition" car. I think
it would fall into the resto-mod category on the Mecum auction show I watch
on Sunday mornings. 

Robbie in CT

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 9:07 PM
To: davesmbox at aol.com
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 70 roadster on ebay

Uh okay..., but I wouldn't put it in the same category as a 67-1/2. I have a
1970 1600, and the first thing I did was to remove the overside rear
reflectors. I think they're butt-ugly and diminish the otherwise clean looks
of the rear.

I'll have to agree about prices, it all depends on who's looking at the time
they are sold. I've seen some nice rides go for a lot less than others that
don't warrant as high a price. Some people put a lot of love (and money) in
their roadsters and practically gave them away.

Fred

On Oct 19, 2011, at 1:56 PM, davesmbox at aol.com wrote:

> I always get confused when a nice complete car in good shape sells for
$3000
> but when a semi restored car with a nice paint job is over $8000 with 
> an asking price more than twice that.
> The 70 is as unique as the 67 1/2. If you are doing a frame off and 
> want
top
> dollar. I believe it should be done right Put the side trim on Put the 
> side markers on (correct rectangle ones for the 70 ) Put the rear 
> reflectors unique to the 70 on.
> Spring for the correct exhaust system.
>
> Just if are going to do a frame off do it right. If you are building a
custom
> for yourself that is fine too. Just don't claim a Savant as a Monet
>
> JUST MY HUMBLE OPINION
>
> I am going to put on my asbestos suit for the flames on my posting
>
> Dave
> ________________________________________
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/robbieharrison at comcas
t.net

From member at linkedin.com  Thu Oct 20 16:08:32 2011
From: member at linkedin.com (Gary Lasater via LinkedIn)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 22:08:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Join my network on LinkedIn
Message-ID: <1079522482.3807230.1319148512441.JavaMail.app@ela4-app0130.prod>

LinkedIn
------------




    
    
    
    
      Gary Lasater has indicated you are a Friend
      
    
      
    
    
  
------------------------------------------

I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Gary

Accept invitation from Gary  Lasater
http://www.linkedin.com/e/-i8ng1o-gu0ayqie-1q/Gi15MJviM-cRhLsWZ1ibVV6j1___ijs05pcE2V2iMNQF1Cg/blk/I160173568_115/6lColZJrmZznQNdhjRQnOpBtn9QfmhBt71BoSd1p65Lr6lOfPkNclYUdzkPdP4Mdz59bRcPhn0SpAdMbPkVejoUd3gPdzgLrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/?hs=false&tok=2pAbFhhrYguAY1

View profile of Gary Lasater
http://www.linkedin.com/e/-i8ng1o-gu0ayqie-1q/rsn/13650385/R2_m/?hs=false&tok=2iz3nxX7sguAY1
------------------------------------------

From hahlbohmd at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 22 17:35:23 2011
From: hahlbohmd at earthlink.net (Dewey Hahlbohm)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 17:35:23 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
Message-ID: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm and steering arms on my roadster.  

I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I cannot separate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???  

I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the right steering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.  

Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena

From krismon at ongbongan.com  Sat Oct 22 19:36:05 2011
From: krismon at ongbongan.com (Krismon ongbongan)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 18:36:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel gauge troubleshooting
In-Reply-To: <CAHzNKbgS5BaGH34sAY4OAvPkWVzocm=W=Sr=TeZBPA5ZjDEufQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHzNKbgS5BaGH34sAY4OAvPkWVzocm=W=Sr=TeZBPA5ZjDEufQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHzNKbgCdos37_5JUy9GxmaQtt+26FXocvXqKnNapS48HPW1bg@mail.gmail.com>

thanks all for the tips on this.. Radio silence was me working too much and
not spending enough time on the car. :(

Alas, I haven't gotten around to troubleshooting the fuel gauge.

Kris.

On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Krismon ongbongan <krismon at ongbongan.com>wrote:

> any tips on troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my '69.
>
> background:
> oil pressure, temp gauge works.. ammeter is unhooked (presumably from a
> motor swap years ago).
> It did "work" when I got the car earlier this year.. a Full tank showed as
> 1/4, now the needle doesn't even move... swapped out a voltage regulator a
> couple of months back (with one from a 510) when the temp gauge & oil
> pressure stopped moving.. but fuel gauge never came back.
> I did have the tank pulled out to be refurbished this past spring, too...
>
> So..now the question.. how do I tell whether it's the sender or the gauge?
> easy way to probe with a multimeter?
>
> Kris.

From davesmbox at aol.com  Sat Oct 22 19:57:09 2011
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 21:57:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
In-Reply-To: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8CE5F3E35598120-D50-46143@webmail-d161.sysops.aol.com>

Rent the lever type from an autozone or try doubling up the joint separator
that you hit



-----Original Message-----
From: Dewey Hahlbohm <hahlbohmd at earthlink.net>
To: Roadster list <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 22, 2011 9:32 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends


Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm and
teering arms on my roadster.
I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I cannot
eparate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???
I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the right
teering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.
Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena
_______________________________________
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/davesmbox at aol.com

From roadsterx at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 22 21:08:52 2011
From: roadsterx at hotmail.com (michael poorboy)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 03:08:52 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
In-Reply-To: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY167-W4886BB03CE852783C027D4BFEE0@phx.gbl>

Dewey,
The easy solution is to by race car as a roller and you are good to go :)

See you at the track next year !!

Mike

> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 17:35:23 -0600
> From: hahlbohmd at earthlink.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
>
> Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm
and steering arms on my roadster.
>
> I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I
cannot separate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???
>
> I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the right
steering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.
>
> Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/roadsterx at hotmail.com

From roadsterx at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 22 22:20:29 2011
From: roadsterx at hotmail.com (michael poorboy)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 04:20:29 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
In-Reply-To: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY167-W17BA84E86544F2C8E78A31BFEE0@phx.gbl>

Dewey,
The easy solution is to by race car as a roller and you are good to go :)

See you at the track next year !!

Mike

> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 17:35:23 -0600
> From: hahlbohmd at earthlink.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
>
> Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm
and steering arms on my roadster.
>
> I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I
cannot separate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???
>
> I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the right
steering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.
>
> Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/roadsterx at hotmail.com

From aultgc at att.net  Sat Oct 22 22:24:10 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 23:24:10 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
References: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <060C42BA92D545F6BC5A0E8D0CA9855B@gaxp1>

Dewey,

If your "ball joint separator" is a large fork with tapered tines, I'm 
surprised you are having no luck.  But, that said, I have always used a 
small gear puller. The two arms grasp the Pittman arm and the threaded shaft 
bears on the top of the tie rod end.  Keep tightening, and rapping on the 
body of the Pittman arm, and it will come apart.  At least that has been my 
experience.

To get the Pittman arm off the steering box on my '67-1/2 2000, I had to use 
what I considered to be excessvie force on the link separator -- "pickle 
fork".  In other words, I wanged the H____ out of it with a 48 ounce hammer. 
But, it eventually came apart without damage.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dewey Hahlbohm" <hahlbohmd at earthlink.net>
To: "Roadster list" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2011 6:35 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends


> Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm 
> and steering arms on my roadster.
>
> I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I 
> cannot separate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???
>
> I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the 
> right steering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.
>
> Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From paulsdatsunstuff at gmail.com  Sun Oct 23 06:14:19 2011
From: paulsdatsunstuff at gmail.com (Paul Kort)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 08:14:19 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
In-Reply-To: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAFEMhEuOU6-uZDGU4XHwWNTSzgRmOP9CQ_Lk1+9uxWbBnvq71w@mail.gmail.com>

  Did mine back in 1998 with a pickle fork, big hammer, and a few friends to
help.  Oh, and it took the weekend to replace all 4 ball joints and all the
a-arm bushings (and maybe a few other front end pieces).  Made for a great
weekend gathering!  Thanks guys.

Paul
Ohio

On Sat, Oct 22, 2011 at 7:35 PM, Dewey Hahlbohm <hahlbohmd at earthlink.net>wrote:

> Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm
> and steering arms on my roadster.
>
> I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I
> cannot separate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???
>
> I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the right
> steering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.
>
> Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/paulsdatsunstuff at gmail.com

From poontang188 at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 23 13:56:17 2011
From: poontang188 at hotmail.com (Scott Sheeler)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 15:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Our 2nd Year Supporting Komen for the Cure
Message-ID: <BAY164-W635C3FA6828290D59FD0E1FCEE0@phx.gbl>


From rksmith46 at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 23 18:58:24 2011
From: rksmith46 at hotmail.com (robert k. smith)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 20:58:24 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
In-Reply-To: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13184694.1319326524035.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W5E1118B0968B8A116F08FBFEF0@phx.gbl>

hi dewey, try loading up a screw type, tie rod separator. then take a big
drift &hammer
 and whackthe steering arm while having great tension on the tie rod end.
 i have loosened joints with eitherof those methods, but combining both
,might do the trick.
                 best of luck, bob smith, ohio

> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 17:35:23 -0600
> From: hahlbohmd at earthlink.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Need help separating tie rod ends
>
> Hi All, I need advice about separating the tie rod ends from the idler arm
and steering arms on my roadster.
>
> I am replacing ball joints and grease boots on my front suspension.  I
cannot separate the tie rods from the idler arms and steering arms???
>
> I have a ball joint separator, no luck.  I just put PB blaster on the right
steering arm, hoping that might loosen it up.
>
> Any words of wisdom or advice is appreciated.  TIA, Dewey in Helena
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/rksmith46 at hotmail.com

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Sun Oct 23 21:51:17 2011
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 20:51:17 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Our 2nd Year Supporting Komen for the Cure
In-Reply-To: <BAY164-W635C3FA6828290D59FD0E1FCEE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY164-W635C3FA6828290D59FD0E1FCEE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001201cc9200$30235920$906a0b60$@net>

(Like)

Sorry to go all FaceBook on everybody.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Sheeler
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 12:56 PM
To: Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Our 2nd Year Supporting Komen for the Cure


________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/gsglasgow at comcast.net

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Mon Oct 24 06:25:48 2011
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:25:48 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
Message-ID: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>

And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
joint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps a
lot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper is
so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it certianly
isn't hurting.

Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle fork,
but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for American Iron
ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some reason I had a
hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the tines had "spread"
and it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
slightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.  The
rest came off like "butta".

Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of diesel
and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the splashes, and
close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a truck
stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)

From tputland at charter.net  Mon Oct 24 07:38:51 2011
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 09:38:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] srl su carbs
Message-ID: <31b8c727.1bb8d6.1333627b448.Webtop.44@charter.net>

Is there a difference between the model years of su carbs on the 2000 
motors? Is there an obvious visual difference that a clueless person 
such as I can see?

Thanks!

tim

From plhbauman at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 24 10:02:18 2011
From: plhbauman at earthlink.net (Paul Bauman)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 09:02:18 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
In-Reply-To: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <4EA58C0A.7060901@earthlink.net>

I second the use of a good quality pickle fork. I must have bought the 
same tool from Harbor Freight, because it was good for only a few ball 
joints before the tines started bending. Picked up a replacement at 
Junior's Tools in Santa Ana and as Fergus mentions, ba-da-bing. I did 
use a few grade 8 nuts that fit the ball joint ends to sub for the good 
nuts when banging on the tie rod ends, but other than that, things came 
apart fine with a decent pickle fork.


Paul Bauman
Westminster, CA
67 1600



On 10/24/2011 05:25 AM, O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) wrote:
> And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
> joint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps a
> lot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper is
> so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it certianly
> isn't hurting.
>
> Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle fork,
> but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for American Iron
> ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some reason I had a
> hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the tines had "spread"
> and it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
> slightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.  The
> rest came off like "butta".
>
> Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of diesel
> and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the splashes, and
> close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a truck
> stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)

From cour.jpeg at gmail.com  Mon Oct 24 10:40:33 2011
From: cour.jpeg at gmail.com (cour.jpeg at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 16:40:33 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] srl su carbs
Message-ID: <481949774-1319474435-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1344173656-@b11.c10.bise6.blackberry>

One difference I know about hasn't seemed to be a "model year" distinction, but rather what was in the bin that day on the production line.

Look at the fuel jets at the bottom, and notice the small diameter flexible hoses that mount beneath the spring loaded thumbscrew. Some versions of the SU have them at a right angle, others do not.

Whichever you've got, tell your vendor when trying to replace those hoses.



------Original Message------
From: Tim
Sender: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] srl su carbs
Sent: 24 Oct 2011 09:38

Is there a difference between the model years of su carbs on the 2000 
motors? Is there an obvious visual difference that a clueless person 
such as I can see?

Thanks!

tim
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/courjpeg at gmail.com




Another ~ZoltVolt~ wireless picture msg

From datsun67vette06 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct 24 15:45:27 2011
From: datsun67vette06 at sbcglobal.net (Kerry Dehmel)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 14:45:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] m1pv9 32hr1fjfj
Message-ID: <1319492727.35296.yint-ygo-j2me@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

39xng, fuocdksm.
 http://xcw5ihwuxo.blog.com/oe/ 
xordpeva y2cox9yeg9z gn1clyrs1nv, jenrp fi4klnnlv. ijtjw4p7 ugrynba.

From jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com  Mon Oct 24 16:25:33 2011
From: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com (Joe Russo)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 18:25:33 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
In-Reply-To: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com>

I have a Harbor Freight pickle fork  and it never separated a single ball
joint.  Not only did the tines spread, the material actually galled.   I
keep it on the shelf above my workbench to remind me to fight the temptation
to read the Harbor freight flyer...

I bought a screw type separator and it has been "butta" ever since.

I also had a HF torque wrench that lied to me such that I snapped a rod
bolt....now I use a S-K indicator torque wrench....

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
Fergus P (AS)
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 8:26 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"

And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
joint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps a
lot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper
is so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it
certianly isn't hurting.

Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle
fork, but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for
American Iron ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some
reason I had a hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the
tines had "spread"
and it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
slightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.
The rest came off like "butta".

Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of
diesel and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the splashes,
and close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a
truck stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/jrusso07 at rochester.rr
.com

From hahlbohmd at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 24 19:38:46 2011
From: hahlbohmd at earthlink.net (Dewey Hahlbohm)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 19:38:46 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
Message-ID: <14839191.1319506727270.JavaMail.root@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Thanks to all that responded, I finally got the tie rods apart after 3 attempts.  The final effort was the power steering pulley puller, a C clamp with screw to push the bolt out of the tie rod end. 

After reading others experiences with the pickle fork, I think the tines on the one I borrowed from O'Reilly's were too far apart.  The tie rod end separator from Car Quest was too big to fit on the fittings.  The C clamp did the trick.  Many good ideas, thanks all for your timely and wise advice.  Regards, Dewey 


-----Original Message-----
>From: "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2011 6:25 AM
>To: "datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
>
>And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
>joint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps a
>lot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper is
>so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it certianly
>isn't hurting.
>
>Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle fork,
>but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for American Iron
>ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some reason I had a
>hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the tines had "spread"
>and it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
>slightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.  The
>rest came off like "butta".
>
>Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of diesel
>and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the splashes, and
>close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a truck
>stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)
>________________________________________
>
>datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/hahlbohmd at earthlink.net

From davesmbox at aol.com  Mon Oct 24 20:07:29 2011
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 22:07:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
In-Reply-To: <006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com>
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>
	<006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CE60D1FBC85B63-634-76C6E@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>

Makes you wonder how the Chinese use their tools. Maybe we should make Snap On
knock offs and sell them to the Chinese. Maybe YUGO can knock off a roadster
for the Chinese market.
We might be on to something here. The year of the dog Wratsun Wroadsa. I like
it.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Russo <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>
To: datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 24, 2011 8:34 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"


I have a Harbor Freight pickle fork  and it never separated a single ball
oint.  Not only did the tines spread, the material actually galled.   I
eep it on the shelf above my workbench to remind me to fight the temptation
o read the Harbor freight flyer...
I bought a screw type separator and it has been "butta" ever since.
I also had a HF torque wrench that lied to me such that I snapped a rod
olt....now I use a S-K indicator torque wrench....
-----Original Message-----
rom: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
ergus P (AS)
ent: Monday, October 24, 2011 8:26 AM
o: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
ubject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
oint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps a
ot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper
s so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it
ertianly isn't hurting.
Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle
ork, but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for
merican Iron ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some
eason I had a hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the
ines had "spread"
nd it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
lightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.
he rest came off like "butta".
Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of
iesel and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the splashes,
nd close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a
ruck stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)
_______________________________________
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From aultgc at att.net  Tue Oct 25 00:45:38 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 01:45:38 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com><006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com>
	<8CE60D1FBC85B63-634-76C6E@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <2ABB802D32684906B709A16721BFF83D@gaxp1>

I don't think the Chinese use the same crap the sell into the US market. 
But, remember who determines what crap is available in the US:  Not the 
Chinese -- the US companies who specify and order it.  Want top quality 
tools?  Buy "Made in USA".  More expensive, but will generally last a couple 
of lifetimes.  (I still use some of my father's Craftsman wrenches.  I broke 
an 11/16 box-open a few years back.  Had to have been 50 years old.  Sears 
replaced it without a word.)

I have found most of what is at Harbor Freight is junk.  Some exceptions, 
though, and if you are only going to use an item on occasion, it may be OK. 
For a while Sears was buying inferior wrenches and sockets -- using heavier 
wall material in lieu of higher-strength.  Made it more difficult to get 
wrenches and sockets into tight places.  Snap-On, SK, Proto and the like 
were better.  Seems things at Sears are better now -- I am satisfied with 
Craftsman quality in standard tools once again.  Of course, there are some 
specialty automotive tools things only Snap-On seems to have.

Just one man's opinion.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <davesmbox at aol.com>
To: <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"


> Makes you wonder how the Chinese use their tools. Maybe we should make 
> Snap On
> knock offs and sell them to the Chinese. Maybe YUGO can knock off a 
> roadster
> for the Chinese market.
> We might be on to something here. The year of the dog Wratsun Wroadsa. I 
> like
> it.
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Russo <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>
> To: datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 24, 2011 8:34 pm
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
>
>
> I have a Harbor Freight pickle fork  and it never separated a single ball
> oint.  Not only did the tines spread, the material actually galled.   I
> eep it on the shelf above my workbench to remind me to fight the 
> temptation
> o read the Harbor freight flyer...
> I bought a screw type separator and it has been "butta" ever since.
> I also had a HF torque wrench that lied to me such that I snapped a rod
> olt....now I use a S-K indicator torque wrench....
> -----Original Message-----
> rom: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
> ergus P (AS)
> ent: Monday, October 24, 2011 8:26 AM
> o: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> ubject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
> And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
> oint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps 
> a
> ot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper
> s so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it
> ertianly isn't hurting.
> Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle
> ork, but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for
> merican Iron ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some
> eason I had a hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the
> ines had "spread"
> nd it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
> lightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.
> he rest came off like "butta".
> Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of
> iesel and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the 
> splashes,
> nd close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a
> ruck stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)
> _______________________________________
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe:
> ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/jrusso07 at rochester.rr
> com
> _______________________________________
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/davesmbox at aol.com
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct 25 07:07:04 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 08:07:04 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] part needed
Message-ID: <BF6633C62C754691BFCD07622A0C520F@ranteer.local>

hi.  I'm looking for the windshield part of the convertible top latches for an
early 67 roadster.

any ideas?

From jsk977 at optonline.net  Tue Oct 25 09:27:38 2011
From: jsk977 at optonline.net (Jerry Krakauer)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 11:27:38 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic
In-Reply-To: <500388B0459448CCA25F12CDF7C32306@gaxp1>
References: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHMEIHCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net>
	<500388B0459448CCA25F12CDF7C32306@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <000801cc932a$a11550e0$e33ff2a0$@net>

Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car's January issue(newsstands in Late Nov.) is
going to have a four page spread on my 67.5.
Guess I can get a $100K for it now :)


Jerry Krakauer
SRL311 00099

From cour.jpeg at gmail.com  Tue Oct 25 10:14:38 2011
From: cour.jpeg at gmail.com (cour.jpeg at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 16:14:38 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic
Message-ID: <1249608408-1319559287-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1543067774-@b11.c10.bise6.blackberry>

Sweet !

I noticed in the current issue of that same magazine one of the columnists includes the 1600/2000 on a Top Ten list of affordable sports cars.

He gives a brief but flattering description as to why.

Looking forward to seeing yours.

Before the ink gets too dry, you might ask them for permission to post a scan of the article when published, to the non-commercial 311s website. 

Paul
------Original Message------
From: Jerry Krakauer
Sender: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
To: 'Datsun List'
Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic
Sent: 25 Oct 2011 11:27

Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car's January issue(newsstands in Late Nov.) is
going to have a four page spread on my 67.5.
Guess I can get a $100K for it now :)


Jerry Krakauer
SRL311 00099
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/courjpeg at gmail.com




Another ~ZoltVolt~ wireless picture msg

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Tue Oct 25 10:29:05 2011
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 09:29:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
In-Reply-To: <2ABB802D32684906B709A16721BFF83D@gaxp1>
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com>
	<006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com>
	<8CE60D1FBC85B63-634-76C6E@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>
	<2ABB802D32684906B709A16721BFF83D@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <40EA72ED-B58C-4A81-9E76-017C1972B541@netscape.net>

Also companies in the US with factories in China set the quality too.

Linda

Sent from my iPod

On Oct 24, 2011, at 11:45 PM, "Gary and Cindy Ault" <aultgc at att.net> wrote:

> I don't think the Chinese use the same crap the sell into the US market.
But, remember who determines what crap is available in the US:  Not the
Chinese -- the US companies who specify and order it.  Want top quality tools?
Buy "Made in USA".  More expensive, but will generally last a couple of
lifetimes.  (I still use some of my father's Craftsman wrenches.  I broke an
11/16 box-open a few years back.  Had to have been 50 years old.  Sears
replaced it without a word.)
>
> I have found most of what is at Harbor Freight is junk.  Some exceptions,
though, and if you are only going to use an item on occasion, it may be OK.
For a while Sears was buying inferior wrenches and sockets -- using heavier
wall material in lieu of higher-strength.  Made it more difficult to get
wrenches and sockets into tight places.  Snap-On, SK, Proto and the like were
better.  Seems things at Sears are better now -- I am satisfied with Craftsman
quality in standard tools once again.  Of course, there are some specialty
automotive tools things only Snap-On seems to have.
>
> Just one man's opinion.
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <davesmbox at aol.com>
> To: <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 9:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
>
>
>> Makes you wonder how the Chinese use their tools. Maybe we should make Snap
On
>> knock offs and sell them to the Chinese. Maybe YUGO can knock off a
roadster
>> for the Chinese market.
>> We might be on to something here. The year of the dog Wratsun Wroadsa. I
like
>> it.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Russo <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>
>> To: datsun-roadsters <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Mon, Oct 24, 2011 8:34 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
>>
>>
>> I have a Harbor Freight pickle fork  and it never separated a single ball
>> oint.  Not only did the tines spread, the material actually galled.   I
>> eep it on the shelf above my workbench to remind me to fight the
temptation
>> o read the Harbor freight flyer...
>> I bought a screw type separator and it has been "butta" ever since.
>> I also had a HF torque wrench that lied to me such that I snapped a rod
>> olt....now I use a S-K indicator torque wrench....
>> -----Original Message-----
>> rom: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>> mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
>> ergus P (AS)
>> ent: Monday, October 24, 2011 8:26 AM
>> o: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> ubject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
>> And while I am sure the experts know (but it wasn't mentioned) the tapered
>> oint gets a bit frozen in there, so I found the dual hammer "shock" helps
a
>> ot as well (just make sure the nut is still on a few threads!).  The taper
>> s so tight I doubt the PB blaster is working its way in, although it
>> ertianly isn't hurting.
>> Slap my wrist, but initally I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle
>> ork, but it was of course sized for max sales, so the right size for
>> merican Iron ball joints.  It worked on the first 3 joints, then for some
>> eason I had a hard time with the 4th.  Being of too soft a material, the
>> ines had "spread"
>> nd it was no longer effective.  Went to AutoZone and they had one just
>> lightly smaller, (I think it was 15/16") perfect size for the roadster.
>> he rest came off like "butta".
>> Oh, and I made my own parts cleaner with a  plastic bin  and a quart of
>> iesel and a chip brush.  Works like a charm, wear glasses for the
splashes,
>> nd close the lid or the wife will complain the whole garage smells like a
>> ruck stop..... (or the fuel dock at the marina)
>> _______________________________________
>> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> nsubscribe:
>>
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/jrusso07 at rochester.rr
>> com
>> _______________________________________
>> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> nsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/davesmbox at aol.com
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ljordan704 at netscape.ne
t

From jsk977 at optonline.net  Tue Oct 25 12:46:00 2011
From: jsk977 at optonline.net (Jerry Krakauer)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 14:46:00 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic
In-Reply-To: <000801cc932a$a11550e0$e33ff2a0$@net>
References: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHMEIHCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net>
	<500388B0459448CCA25F12CDF7C32306@gaxp1>
	<000801cc932a$a11550e0$e33ff2a0$@net>
Message-ID: <001801cc9346$570bd9d0$05238d70$@net>

Before you guys get too excited, it's un-restored, same condition it was in
when I retired from racing in the early 70s... lots of wear & tear.

Jerry Krakauer

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Krakauer
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 11:28 AM
To: 'Datsun List'
Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic

Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car's January issue(newsstands in Late Nov.) is
going to have a four page spread on my 67.5.
Guess I can get a $100K for it now :)


Jerry Krakauer
SRL311 00099
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/jsk977 at optonline.net

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct 25 15:53:17 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 16:53:17 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic
In-Reply-To: <001801cc9346$570bd9d0$05238d70$@net>
References: <NNEJLCLFHGMBEEKOEPAHMEIHCDAA.stebharvey@ameritech.net><500388B0459448CCA25F12CDF7C32306@gaxp1><000801cc932a$a11550e0$e33ff2a0$@net>
	<001801cc9346$570bd9d0$05238d70$@net>
Message-ID: <B34445E672DE43B19159C00B076768DB@ranteer.local>

sheesh.  mine just arrived today and I tore through it looking.

then I realized you said november . . .

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jerry Krakauer" <jsk977 at optonline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 1:46 PM
To: "'Datsun List'" <Datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic

> Before you guys get too excited, it's un-restored, same condition it was 
> in
> when I retired from racing in the early 70s... lots of wear & tear.
>
> Jerry Krakauer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry 
> Krakauer
> Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 11:28 AM
> To: 'Datsun List'
> Subject: [Roadsters] Hemmings Sports & Exotic
>
> Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car's January issue(newsstands in Late Nov.) is
> going to have a four page spread on my 67.5.
> Guess I can get a $100K for it now :)
>
>
> Jerry Krakauer 

From jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Oct 25 19:17:17 2011
From: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com (Joe Russo)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 21:17:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
In-Reply-To: <2ABB802D32684906B709A16721BFF83D@gaxp1>
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com><006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com>
	<8CE60D1FBC85B63-634-76C6E@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>
	<2ABB802D32684906B709A16721BFF83D@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <00ba01cc937d$00f5b700$02e12500$@rochester.rr.com>

I second your opinion. Snap on has had unwavering quality, Old S-K and
Craftsman too.  New stuff,  ???  Glad I bought most of my tools when the car
bug bit me in the 70s

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary and Cindy Ault [mailto:aultgc at att.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 2:46 AM
To: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net;
davesmbox at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"

I don't think the Chinese use the same crap the sell into the US market. 
But, remember who determines what crap is available in the US:  Not the
Chinese -- the US companies who specify and order it.  Want top quality
tools?  Buy "Made in USA".  More expensive, but will generally last a couple
of lifetimes.  (I still use some of my father's Craftsman wrenches.  I broke
an 11/16 box-open a few years back.  Had to have been 50 years old.  Sears
replaced it without a word.)

I have found most of what is at Harbor Freight is junk.  Some exceptions,
though, and if you are only going to use an item on occasion, it may be OK. 
For a while Sears was buying inferior wrenches and sockets -- using heavier
wall material in lieu of higher-strength.  Made it more difficult to get
wrenches and sockets into tight places.  Snap-On, SK, Proto and the like
were better.  Seems things at Sears are better now -- I am satisfied with
Craftsman quality in standard tools once again.  Of course, there are some
specialty automotive tools things only Snap-On seems to have.

Just one man's opinion.

Gary

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Oct 25 20:35:38 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 21:35:38 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
References: <1432A0C924F7ED439A95685850281F6601F91FFB@XMBC3087.northgrum.com><006a01cc929b$d8d2c6a0$8a7853e0$@rochester.rr.com><8CE60D1FBC85B63-634-76C6E@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com><2ABB802D32684906B709A16721BFF83D@gaxp1>
	<00ba01cc937d$00f5b700$02e12500$@rochester.rr.com>
Message-ID: <0138F7411C254C529C87188C77C0E356@gaxp1>

At the risk of being called repetitious, I think the current generation of 
Craftsman stuff is back to the old standards -- high-strength, thin-wall for 
access in tight spots.  (Had an occasion to buy a couple of sockets to solve 
a problem when no other suppliers' were open.)  Liked the material.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Russo" <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"


>I second your opinion. Snap on has had unwavering quality, Old S-K and
> Craftsman too.  New stuff,  ???  Glad I bought most of my tools when the 
> car
> bug bit me in the 70s
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary and Cindy Ault [mailto:aultgc at att.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 2:46 AM
> To: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net;
> davesmbox at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] tie rod ends, the "shock"
>
> I don't think the Chinese use the same crap the sell into the US market.
> But, remember who determines what crap is available in the US:  Not the
> Chinese -- the US companies who specify and order it.  Want top quality
> tools?  Buy "Made in USA".  More expensive, but will generally last a 
> couple
> of lifetimes.  (I still use some of my father's Craftsman wrenches.  I 
> broke
> an 11/16 box-open a few years back.  Had to have been 50 years old.  Sears
> replaced it without a word.)
>
> I have found most of what is at Harbor Freight is junk.  Some exceptions,
> though, and if you are only going to use an item on occasion, it may be 
> OK.
> For a while Sears was buying inferior wrenches and sockets -- using 
> heavier
> wall material in lieu of higher-strength.  Made it more difficult to get
> wrenches and sockets into tight places.  Snap-On, SK, Proto and the like
> were better.  Seems things at Sears are better now -- I am satisfied with
> Craftsman quality in standard tools once again.  Of course, there are some
> specialty automotive tools things only Snap-On seems to have.
>
> Just one man's opinion.
>
> Gary
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 26 21:38:05 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 22:38:05 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
Message-ID: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>

whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to know
what it is.

I'm thinking early 60's mopar?

www.ranteer.com/misc/

From slowboy at cox.net  Wed Oct 26 22:42:36 2011
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:42:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <001401cc9462$d9ca9560$8d5fc020$@cox.net>

Looks like the back end of a Plymouth Valiant

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 8:38 PM
To: Datsun
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??

whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to
know what it is.

I'm thinking early 60's mopar?

www.ranteer.com/misc/

From spedlyy at comcast.net  Wed Oct 26 22:50:06 2011
From: spedlyy at comcast.net (Spedlyy)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:50:06 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <031BB1E4D3E74CFE999BC2838307003B@XPS2008>

My wife had a '66 Valiant. It is similar, but not the same. It does look 
Moparish.  My second guess would be Buick?  About the right size and shape 
for an early Skylark (although I don't recall one quite like this either).

-Ed-

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 8:38 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??


> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to 
> know
> what it is.
>
> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>
> www.ranteer.com/misc/
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/spedlyy at comcast.net

From aultgc at att.net  Wed Oct 26 23:05:35 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 00:05:35 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <3D9BF31AA4B64FEA8BD137B0BC46EE3B@gaxp1>

Plymouth Volare?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:38 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??


> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to 
> know
> what it is.
>
> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>
> www.ranteer.com/misc/
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From pjmill at sonic.net  Thu Oct 27 00:06:50 2011
From: pjmill at sonic.net (pjmill)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 23:06:50 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <3D9BF31AA4B64FEA8BD137B0BC46EE3B@gaxp1>
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
	<3D9BF31AA4B64FEA8BD137B0BC46EE3B@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <583C884F6CD04A6CA8500C658ED3FA8B@yourfsyly0jtwn>

It's a 1963 Plymouth Valiant, my fellow Roadsterites.

Cool little car. I think this one was one of the first in the USA to use an
aluminum block.  Didn't really work out.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy
Ault
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:06 PM
To: oliver; Datsun
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??

Plymouth Volare?

----- Original Message -----
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:38 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??


> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to 
> know
> what it is.
>
> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>
> www.ranteer.com/misc/
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/pjmill at sonic.net

From pjmill at sonic.net  Thu Oct 27 00:11:27 2011
From: pjmill at sonic.net (pjmill)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 23:11:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
	<3D9BF31AA4B64FEA8BD137B0BC46EE3B@gaxp1> 
Message-ID: <84FE2546E1F249758D3F01BE08029540@yourfsyly0jtwn>

Here's a lovely link with a pic of the car and Lee Iacocca, his own
ding-dang self!

http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/04/30/chrysler-wants-small-cars-sounds-
familiar/

P
 

-----Original Message-----
From: pjmill [mailto:pjmill at sonic.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 11:07 PM
To: 'Datsun'
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] what is it??

It's a 1963 Plymouth Valiant, my fellow Roadsterites.

Cool little car. I think this one was one of the first in the USA to use an
aluminum block.  Didn't really work out.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy
Ault
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:06 PM
To: oliver; Datsun
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??

Plymouth Volare?

----- Original Message -----
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:38 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??


> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have 
> to know what it is.
>
> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>
> www.ranteer.com/misc/
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 27 00:18:48 2011
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 06:18:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1933098526.1264905.1319696328668.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Took a few minutes Googling, but the tail lights make it a 1964 Plymouth Valiant. 


Pete 


----- Original Message -----
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> 
To: "Datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 8:38:05 PM 
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it?? 

whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to know 
what it is. 

I'm thinking early 60's mopar? 

www.ranteer.com/misc/ 
________________________________________ 

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/ppeters914 at comcast.net 

From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 27 05:02:50 2011
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 04:02:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <583C884F6CD04A6CA8500C658ED3FA8B@yourfsyly0jtwn>
Message-ID: <1319713370.54504.YahooMailClassic@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sorry, I think the aluminum block award goes to Buick Skylark Olds F-85 1961
or '62.  The same little V-8 that became famous across the pond in everything
from Rovers to Sterlings to Triumph TR8 to MGC to about any british car they
could mash a V8 into.  It did not work that well in American cars but was a
big hit "over there".  GM sold this gem, which says something about GM.


Mike Harper, CAI, AARE
Harper Auction & Realty
843-729-4996
"Experience Sells"

www.AuctionMyRealEstate.NET
 
 

--- On Thu, 10/27/11, pjmill <pjmill at sonic.net> wrote:


From: pjmill <pjmill at sonic.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??
To: "'Datsun'" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, October 27, 2011, 2:06 AM


It's a 1963 Plymouth Valiant, my fellow Roadsterites.

Cool little car. I think this one was one of the first in the USA to use an
aluminum block.  Didn't really work out.

Paul

From lee.ehinger at frontier.com  Thu Oct 27 05:14:24 2011
From: lee.ehinger at frontier.com (Lee Ehinger)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:14:24 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <84390243059245F0883F4AE333A51A40@ehingerhome>

Looks like about a 60-61 Plymouth Valiant, usually with a slant 6.  Motor
usually outlived the body around here.
Lee Ehinger Home
Rust belt IN

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 11:38 PM
To: Datsun
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??

whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to
know
what it is.

I'm thinking early 60's mopar?

www.ranteer.com/misc/
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/lee.ehinger at frontier.
com

From paulsdatsunstuff at gmail.com  Thu Oct 27 05:54:54 2011
From: paulsdatsunstuff at gmail.com (Paul Kort)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:54:54 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CAFEMhEuvAuJtO3_4mH_hA-VW4MyO+=n_Ukxyrkbh--Jn7nvOMg@mail.gmail.com>

Plymouth Valiant?

Paul
Ohio

On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 11:38 PM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to
> know
> what it is.
>
> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>
> www.ranteer.com/misc/
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/paulsdatsunstuff at gmail.com

From cour.jpeg at gmail.com  Thu Oct 27 06:28:32 2011
From: cour.jpeg at gmail.com (cour.jpeg at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 12:28:32 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <1319713370.54504.YahooMailClassic@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <583C884F6CD04A6CA8500C658ED3FA8B@yourfsyly0jtwn>
	<1319713370.54504.YahooMailClassic@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6920973-1319718515-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1392373267-@b11.c10.bise6.blackberry>

Yes I think the distinctive engine you might be recalling was the Slant-6. Famous for being bulletproof, operationally.

Another ~ZoltVolt~ wireless picture msg

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Harper <roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com>
Sender: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 04:02:50 
To: 'Datsun'<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>; pjmill<pjmill at sonic.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??

Sorry, I think the aluminum block award goes to Buick Skylark Olds F-85 1961
or '62.  The same little V-8 that became famous across the pond in everything
from Rovers to Sterlings to Triumph TR8 to MGC to about any british car they
could mash a V8 into.  It did not work that well in American cars but was a
big hit "over there".  GM sold this gem, which says something about GM.


Mike Harper, CAI, AARE
Harper Auction & Realty
843-729-4996
"Experience Sells"

www.AuctionMyRealEstate.NET
 
 

--- On Thu, 10/27/11, pjmill <pjmill at sonic.net> wrote:


From: pjmill <pjmill at sonic.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??
To: "'Datsun'" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, October 27, 2011, 2:06 AM


It's a 1963 Plymouth Valiant, my fellow Roadsterites.

Cool little car. I think this one was one of the first in the USA to use an
aluminum block.  Didn't really work out.

Paul
________________________________________

datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rekeen at mtu.edu  Thu Oct 27 06:56:40 2011
From: rekeen at mtu.edu (Robert Keen)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 08:56:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
In-Reply-To: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1110270852340.18266@bios6.csa.ad.mtu.edu>

The tail lights appear to be those of a 1964 Plymouth
Valiant.

<http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-edell64v.html>

--Bob
Michigan's UP
68 1600
=========================

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011, oliver wrote:

> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to know
> what it is.
>
> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>
> www.ranteer.com/misc/
> ________________________________________

From chalsted at comcast.net  Thu Oct 27 06:57:45 2011
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 12:57:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] aluminum V8's
In-Reply-To: <1319713370.54504.YahooMailClassic@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <291992452.755172.1319720265324.JavaMail.root@sz0145a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have a couple of those 215's available, one a stroker motor, along with a 2spd "Dual Path" aircooled automatic if anyone's looking. non-stroker engine and trans out of a 61 or 62 Buick Special wagon, drove it home 
Craig 

From aultgc at att.net  Thu Oct 27 21:58:33 2011
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 22:58:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
References: <F5CE1042F11D4AE69F383FCC75D0E307@ranteer.local><3D9BF31AA4B64FEA8BD137B0BC46EE3B@gaxp1>
	<583C884F6CD04A6CA8500C658ED3FA8B@yourfsyly0jtwn>
Message-ID: <AFE1465CB6E444F081B760F4252BD5AE@gaxp1>

Yeah, "Valiant", not "Volare", that's it.  I new it was one of those "V" 
things.......

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "pjmill" <pjmill at sonic.net>
To: "'Datsun'" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??


> It's a 1963 Plymouth Valiant, my fellow Roadsterites.
>
> Cool little car. I think this one was one of the first in the USA to use 
> an
> aluminum block.  Didn't really work out.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary and 
> Cindy
> Ault
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:06 PM
> To: oliver; Datsun
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] what is it??
>
> Plymouth Volare?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:38 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] what is it??
>
>
>> whenever I see a car in a brochure (or billboard, tv show, etc) I have to
>> know
>> what it is.
>>
>> I'm thinking early 60's mopar?
>>
>> www.ranteer.com/misc/
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/pjmill at sonic.net
> ________________________________________
>
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/datsun-roadsters/aultgc at att.net

From chalsted at comcast.net  Sun Oct 30 03:25:49 2011
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 10:25:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] pair of '69 2000's barn stored 34 years
In-Reply-To: <702215245.838967.1319969485621.JavaMail.root@sz0145a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <639960829.838991.1319970349809.JavaMail.root@sz0145a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

picked up a pair of barn stored '69 2000's friday evening...both decent bodys, only one has a title. that one had a hardtop on it while stored and inside is pretty nice- one split about an inch long in the center of the dash up above the clock. other one has a lot more dust inside but appears to have a perfect dash. cars were his and hers roadsters, went into storage 34 years ago. the one with the hardtop only has 57k original miles on it :-) 
more roadsters! must be a good thing, eh? ;-) 
Craig 

From fergus06 at socal.rr.com  Sun Oct 30 13:21:08 2011
From: fergus06 at socal.rr.com (Fergus O'Farrell)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 13:21:08 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Art Center School of Design Car Exhibit, from cncpics
Message-ID: <C738BCD26C7048A7B1E40601D0C8D570@CarmelPC>

the photography folks at cncpics attended the Art Center School of Design car
exhibit.
Art Center (in Pasadena) have a famous school of automotive design, and were
recognising Pete Brock for his vast collection of work. (including the Daytona
coupe)
Some cool shots of Adam Carolla's Datsun's, including an eagle eye view of the
engine bay.  (nice work Les !)

Some other gorgeous pieces as well, enjoy.

http://www.cncpics.com/2011/October-2011/2011-Art-Center-Car-Classic/19719934
_rZcp86#1548022527_dBW35v9

From mhknorr at msn.com  Sun Oct 30 15:27:27 2011
From: mhknorr at msn.com (Michael Knorr)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 16:27:27 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] pair of '69 2000's barn stored 34 years
Message-ID: <COL106-W46F782926A857610D497F1AAD10@phx.gbl>

Just how many do you now have, Craig? I barely have room for my one.

Regards, Michael Knorr
1966 SPL311-03639

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Sun Oct 30 15:42:05 2011
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:42:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Art Center School of Design Car Exhibit,
 from  cncpics
In-Reply-To: <C738BCD26C7048A7B1E40601D0C8D570@CarmelPC>
References: <C738BCD26C7048A7B1E40601D0C8D570@CarmelPC>
Message-ID: <000001cc9755$26f645b0$74e2d110$@net>

Another very unusual car in that set of pictures is the Triumph
TR-250K,(pics 231-245), which was a streamlined body on a TR-250 that Pete
Brock designed for Kas Kastner, who was a So Cal friend of his who used to
race Triumphs. Kastner wanted a more modern look to show Triumph, but they
rejected the idea. Then later they came out with the TR-7, which had a fair
number of the same stying elements. Last I heard it was in a private
collection in the Seattle area.

Piece of trivia: Kaster later became the Race Team Manager for Electamotive
when they ran the Nissan IMSA GTP cars.

Wow, what an amazing collection of cars in those shots!

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fergus
O'Farrell
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 1:21 PM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Art Center School of Design Car Exhibit, from cncpics

the photography folks at cncpics attended the Art Center School of Design
car
exhibit.
Art Center (in Pasadena) have a famous school of automotive design, and were
recognising Pete Brock for his vast collection of work. (including the
Daytona
coupe)
Some cool shots of Adam Carolla's Datsun's, including an eagle eye view of
the
engine bay.  (nice work Les !)

Some other gorgeous pieces as well, enjoy.

http://www.cncpics.com/2011/October-2011/2011-Art-Center-Car-Classic/1971993
4
_rZcp86#1548022527_dBW35v9
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