[Roadsters] Shock install update

[Gary and Cindy Ault]

Steve,

You're right, the "bolts" should not rotate.  They're really captive bolts, 
or studs, welded into the metal tube.  You should be able to get the right 
side nut and lockwasher off.  You could consider some sort of curved 
reinforcement plates -- front and rear  -- where the left side bolt mounts. 
If the stud/bolt has rusted loose, I think there is a good chance the metal 
tube is weak in that area.  Reinforcement, however, would likely place the 
shock mounting slightly off (owing to the thickness of whatever 
reinforcement is present), and I have no clue as to whether that would be 
significant.

I don't remember whether that tube does anything other than serve as a 
mounting point for the shocks.  I don't think it does.  If not, you could 
consider cutting the tube off a donor car, and welding it into yours.  I 
didn't get under my car to check this, so what I suggest may not be 
feasible.  But, from the diagram in the parts book, it appears to be.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harvey" <stebharvey at ameritech.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 6:44 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Shock install update


> Group,
>
>
>
> I started the rear shock install and found a major problem. The upper 
> shock
> bolts are secured to a curved tube that runs from side to side and is
> attached to the frame. The right side bolt doesn't rotate (I believe it
> shouldn't rotate) but where it exits the tubing the tubing metal has 
> failed
> allowing the bolt to move up and down. The left side bolt is tight inside
> the tube. Rust appears to be the cause of the metal failure on the right
> side.
>
>
>
> Replacing the entire tube doesn't seem to be a viable solution at this
> point. I'm thinking that I can wire bush the tubing, fabricate a half 
> round
> piece of metal with a hole to match the bolt diameter, slip it over the 
> top
> bolt and wire weld the new piece of metal to the original tubing piece.  I
> could also find a washer that has a matching I.D. to the bolt, bend it to
> match the tubing diameter and weld it to the tube. Any thoughts or help on
> this is appreciated.
>
>
>
> Steve Harvey
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