From poontang188 at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  1 13:35:03 2009
From: poontang188 at hotmail.com (Scott Sheeler)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:35:03 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Mr. K is 100 Years Old This Year
Message-ID: <BAY139-W2633311EC7E832D15EB9A1FCF10@phx.gbl>

>From my 2006 email to The List:



To members of the Roadster List and other friends:

It has occured to me that everyone who has enjoyed, or is enjoying, a Datsun
roadster - in any shape or condition - should understand its roots. Without
being long-winded (but I probably will be), the Datsun roadster owes a great
deal, if not all, of its success to Mr. Yutaka Katayama - "Mr. K." as he has
come to be called.

Rob Beddington of fairlady.org writes:

"If you do a website search of 'Katayama' on www.fairlady.org you will see
that not only was Mr K the driving force behind roadster racing in the USA
but his acts of support to individuals and teams at grass roots level were
legendary.

Among many acts of generosity (and corporate shrewdness) Mr K. gave Bob
Sharp 5 'salt-damaged' Datsun 2000s on the East Coast in recognition of his
success with the 1500 and 1600, he by-passed an unhappy Dick Roberts at the
Datsun's Competition department to arrange the two 2000's for Pete Brock
direct from Japan, and he gave Jack Scoville an engine for the car that went
on to win the Datsun 2000 its first national championship.

So without Mr K there would have been no BRE roadster team (so no BRE 510 or
240Z), much less of a racing heritage, which is still recognised today, and
of course, less Datsuns on the road - "race on Sunday, sell on Monday."

Thanks, Rob.

On September 15, 2009 Mr. K will be 100 years old.

I would like to ask everyone on the list to send Mr. K an email birthday
wish - nothing fancy - just

Subject - "Happy Birthday"


"Mr. Katayama, thank you for your years of support for the Datsun roadster -
my roadster has given me a lot of enjoyment and great times. Best wishes on
your 100th birthday"

or something like that. His secretary says that attachments cannot be
received so the "shorter the better" and no pictures.

The email address should be: mr.k at able.ocn.ne.jp

It won't take long and will be a nice gesture to a man who, 49 years ago,
laid the groundwork for the reason this "list" even exists.

Please remember to send it on September 14 since that will September 15 in
Japan.

Thanks in advance for the support.

Scott Sheeler
The Datsun Roadster Book

From hallosb at juno.com  Tue Sep  1 13:39:25 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 19:39:25 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
Message-ID: <20090901.123925.5646.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>

Must be 0.002" not, 0.020".  That would be a lot of honing.
A word of caution on honing. I once tried this on a motor based on the machine
shop's recommendation.  Oversize rings and stock pistons. Motor sounded good
for about a year and 10,000 miles.  Then I developed piston slap in one
cylinder.  Appears I developed a little too much clearance.
You can measure clearance between the pistion and cylinder wall to compare
against specs. If you haven't already done so, I highly recommend it.
Dan McHatton
'66 1600

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "robert k. smith" <rksmith46 at hotmail.com>
To: <frank.l.may at umsl.edu>, <barterdude at comcast.net>, roadster list
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Second Posting
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 23:03:29 -0400

hi frank, i just rebuilt a frozen engine, and the key to getting it free

is to remove the crank shaft, so you can work on each piston

by itself.(soak w/ penetrating oil for days, then use a cut down

2X4 piece of wood, and at least a 2 lb. hammer) if you dont remove

the crank shaft, you are trying to move all 4 stuck pistons at the

same time. btw, i was able to re use the stock pistons, and just

hone the cyls.(a lot). a .020 over bore and new pistons are nice

if your budget allows. good luck, bob smith, ohio


> Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:03:33 -0500
> From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
> To: barterdude at comcast.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
>
> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last
turned
> over. I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring. I
> put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's stuck.
> Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head? I've
> shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but without
> results so far.
>
> Frank May
> SRL311-12936
>
> ________________________________
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rksmith46 at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

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From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  1 14:33:52 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:33:52 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Mr. K is 100 Years Old This Year
References: <BAY139-W2633311EC7E832D15EB9A1FCF10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004401ca2b43$85598480$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Scott,
Thanks for sharing the opportunity to participate in giving honor to Mr. K.
on a very special day.

I followed your suggestion and included my year, make, model, VIN and Eng.
numbers, as well and location, (USA in my case).

Geez,....... I'd like to think my roadster will last that long, but I
seriously doubt I'll be around to find out....

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Sheeler" <poontang188 at hotmail.com>
To: "Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 2:35 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Mr. K is 100 Years Old This Year


> >From my 2006 email to The List:
>
>
>
> To members of the Roadster List and other friends:
>
> It has occured to me that everyone who has enjoyed, or is enjoying, a
Datsun
> roadster - in any shape or condition - should understand its roots.
Without
> being long-winded (but I probably will be), the Datsun roadster owes a
great
> deal, if not all, of its success to Mr. Yutaka Katayama - "Mr. K." as he
has
> come to be called.
>
> Rob Beddington of fairlady.org writes:
>
> "If you do a website search of 'Katayama' on www.fairlady.org you will see
> that not only was Mr K the driving force behind roadster racing in the USA
> but his acts of support to individuals and teams at grass roots level were
> legendary.
>
> Among many acts of generosity (and corporate shrewdness) Mr K. gave Bob
> Sharp 5 'salt-damaged' Datsun 2000s on the East Coast in recognition of
his
> success with the 1500 and 1600, he by-passed an unhappy Dick Roberts at
the
> Datsun's Competition department to arrange the two 2000's for Pete Brock
> direct from Japan, and he gave Jack Scoville an engine for the car that
went
> on to win the Datsun 2000 its first national championship.
>
> So without Mr K there would have been no BRE roadster team (so no BRE 510
or
> 240Z), much less of a racing heritage, which is still recognised today,
and
> of course, less Datsuns on the road - "race on Sunday, sell on Monday."
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On September 15, 2009 Mr. K will be 100 years old.
>
> I would like to ask everyone on the list to send Mr. K an email birthday
> wish - nothing fancy - just
>
> Subject - "Happy Birthday"
>
>
> "Mr. Katayama, thank you for your years of support for the Datsun
roadster -
> my roadster has given me a lot of enjoyment and great times. Best wishes
on
> your 100th birthday"
>
> or something like that. His secretary says that attachments cannot be
> received so the "shorter the better" and no pictures.
>
> The email address should be: mr.k at able.ocn.ne.jp
>
> It won't take long and will be a nice gesture to a man who, 49 years ago,
> laid the groundwork for the reason this "list" even exists.
>
> Please remember to send it on September 14 since that will September 15 in
> Japan.
>
> Thanks in advance for the support.
>
> Scott Sheeler
> The Datsun Roadster Book

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 15:20:58 2009
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 14:20:58 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Mr. K is 100 Years Old This Year
In-Reply-To: <BAY139-W2633311EC7E832D15EB9A1FCF10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY139-W2633311EC7E832D15EB9A1FCF10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <b0b0059f0909011420r55fa2b22w7c76eb6f6e9addb9@mail.gmail.com>

Check out www.socalroc.net and click on the Datsun Heritage Museum link in
the Main Menu.  There are a few things going on for Mr. K's Birthday you can
help in celebrating




On Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 12:35 PM, Scott Sheeler <poontang188 at hotmail.com>wrote:

> >From my 2006 email to The List:
>
>
>
> To members of the Roadster List and other friends:
>
> It has occured to me that everyone who has enjoyed, or is enjoying, a
> Datsun
> roadster - in any shape or condition - should understand its roots. Without
> being long-winded (but I probably will be), the Datsun roadster owes a
> great
> deal, if not all, of its success to Mr. Yutaka Katayama - "Mr. K." as he
> has
> come to be called.
>
> Rob Beddington of fairlady.org writes:
>
> "If you do a website search of 'Katayama' on www.fairlady.org you will see
> that not only was Mr K the driving force behind roadster racing in the USA
> but his acts of support to individuals and teams at grass roots level were
> legendary.
>
> Among many acts of generosity (and corporate shrewdness) Mr K. gave Bob
> Sharp 5 'salt-damaged' Datsun 2000s on the East Coast in recognition of his
> success with the 1500 and 1600, he by-passed an unhappy Dick Roberts at the
> Datsun's Competition department to arrange the two 2000's for Pete Brock
> direct from Japan, and he gave Jack Scoville an engine for the car that
> went
> on to win the Datsun 2000 its first national championship.
>
> So without Mr K there would have been no BRE roadster team (so no BRE 510
> or
> 240Z), much less of a racing heritage, which is still recognised today, and
> of course, less Datsuns on the road - "race on Sunday, sell on Monday."
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On September 15, 2009 Mr. K will be 100 years old.
>
> I would like to ask everyone on the list to send Mr. K an email birthday
> wish - nothing fancy - just
>
> Subject - "Happy Birthday"
>
>
> "Mr. Katayama, thank you for your years of support for the Datsun roadster
> -
> my roadster has given me a lot of enjoyment and great times. Best wishes on
> your 100th birthday"
>
> or something like that. His secretary says that attachments cannot be
> received so the "shorter the better" and no pictures.
>
> The email address should be: mr.k at able.ocn.ne.jp
>
> It won't take long and will be a nice gesture to a man who, 49 years ago,
> laid the groundwork for the reason this "list" even exists.
>
> Please remember to send it on September 14 since that will September 15 in
> Japan.
>
> Thanks in advance for the support.
>
> Scott Sheeler
> The Datsun Roadster Book
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Wed Sep  2 12:25:24 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 11:25:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] BC/California Fires
Message-ID: <1B4A15C4C65E47A2BFD9F4637953B8BA@Daryl>

List is pretty quiet lately.
Here's hoping everyone near those fires are safe.

Daryl

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Wed Sep  2 14:16:05 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 13:16:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] BC/California Fires
In-Reply-To: <1B4A15C4C65E47A2BFD9F4637953B8BA@Daryl>
References: <1B4A15C4C65E47A2BFD9F4637953B8BA@Daryl>
Message-ID: <006a01ca2c0a$342670b0$9c735210$@net>

Amen to that!

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daryl Smith
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 11:25 AM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] BC/California Fires

List is pretty quiet lately.
Here's hoping everyone near those fires are safe.

Daryl
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  2 18:56:42 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 17:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadster on Ebay
Message-ID: <466842.50511.qm@web51103.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Anyone know this car?
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260469164385&ss
PageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123
 
JimG 2K 69 NJ

From brianstj at att.net  Thu Sep  3 09:11:17 2009
From: brianstj at att.net (Brian St Jacques)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 08:11:17 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] BC/California Fires
In-Reply-To: <1B4A15C4C65E47A2BFD9F4637953B8BA@Daryl>
References: <1B4A15C4C65E47A2BFD9F4637953B8BA@Daryl>
Message-ID: <521B20CD161346C09AFB9D6DEA20A84F@brave.local>

I was 2 miles from the edge of the fire. Got a mandatory evacuation phone
call, so we had to pack up and head out. The roadster is immobile so it had
to stay, but I opted to take my BMW 2002 over my Xterra - way too much work
in to that car to let it go down in flames :) We drove through the
neighborhood last night that was hit the worst. It was absolutely
devastating. I couldn't believe how completely the houses burned - there was
just nothing whatsoever left but chimneys and appliance frames. Several cars
were burned out - that was really strange and surprising too. There was
nothing left of an entire vehicle but the shell. No glass, nothing at all
but the metal. All the cars also had their bellies down to the ground, so I
assume that the springs must have gotten hot enough to just collapse. It was
really strange how the fire went through the neighborhood - not at all what
I was expecting. It seemed to just randomly take out houses through this big
subdivision. There is probably 100 or more houses and about 30-40 got taken
out - but they were sprinkled all throughout the rest of the houses. It
seemed really random as to which houses burned in many instances. There
would be one house completely leveled next to another that was completely
unscathed. My wife has 2 coworkers that lost their houses, really sad. 

Brian 

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daryl Smith
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 11:25 AM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] BC/California Fires

List is pretty quiet lately.
Here's hoping everyone near those fires are safe.

Daryl
You are subscribed as brianstj at att.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Thu Sep  3 13:15:26 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 14:15:26 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] California fire time lapse footage
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F845102F93666@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

Got this from a friend.  Pretty cool footage made with digital time
lapse, although kind of eerie the thoguth of what is going on to cause
all of this.

This is a time lapse view of the fires from the Playa Vista/ LMU vantage
point.
I believe these are Saturday/Sunday afternoon.
Pretty impressive footage.

http://www.brandonriza.com/Video/HTML/ZeroPercentContained.html

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  3 18:31:27 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 17:31:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] California Fires
Message-ID: <938211.28482.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

A good friend lost everything, Grand Pianos, Hammond B3 organs, Lesiles, Old BMW, tons more 50 yrs of saving worth hundreds of thousands. No insurance. He said "I almost wish I lost my life". In a way he did. I had a house fire on the last day of December. I collect old cars ( have 40 or more) 6 Datsun 1600s. I am a guitarist by trade and lost my studio. I thought the whole house was history. Fire can be Satan, it is VERY scary. My prayers and heart go out to these people who have lost everything.

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Thu Sep  3 19:42:55 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 21:42:55 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] California Fires OT
In-Reply-To: <938211.28482.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <938211.28482.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFB182853FE16-1C58-C2AF@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com>

 I think we have to recognize that the fire dept, police etc just can't do it all. There is too much ground to cover. David Geffen hired his own fireman and had them spray his house down with some fire retardent stuff in one of the recent fires. I think I'd look into some stuff like that to keep on hand if possible.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Sep 3, 2009 5:31 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] California Fires










A good friend lost everything, Grand Pianos, Hammond B3 organs, Lesiles, Old 
BMW, tons more 50 yrs of saving worth hundreds of thousands. No insurance. He 
said "I almost wish I lost my life". In a way he did. I had a house fire on the 
last day of December. I collect old cars ( have 40 or more) 6 Datsun 1600s. I am 
a guitarist by trade and lost my studio. I thought the whole house was history. 
Fire can be Satan, it is VERY scary. My prayers and heart go out to these people 
who have lost everything.
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

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From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  3 20:13:39 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 19:13:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] California Fires OT
In-Reply-To: <8CBFB182853FE16-1C58-C2AF@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com>
References: <938211.28482.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CBFB182853FE16-1C58-C2AF@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <745142.16205.qm@web81408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

as if all the losses of life and property weren't enough.... now the investigators are saying it was intentionally set.  Arson.




________________________________
From: "ljordan704 at netscape.net" <ljordan704 at netscape.net>
To: dboerst at yahoo.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2009 6:42:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] California Fires OT

I think we have to recognize that the fire dept, police etc just can't do it all. There is too much ground to cover. David Geffen hired his own fireman and had them spray his house down with some fire retardent stuff in one of the recent fires. I think I'd look into some stuff like that to keep on hand if possible.

Linda







-----Original Message-----
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Sep 3, 2009 5:31 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] California Fires










A good friend lost everything, Grand Pianos, Hammond B3 organs, Lesiles, Old 
BMW, tons more 50 yrs of saving worth hundreds of thousands. No insurance. He 
said "I almost wish I lost my life". In a way he did. I had a house fire on the 
last day of December. I collect old cars ( have 40 or more) 6 Datsun 1600s. I am 
a guitarist by trade and lost my studio. I thought the whole house was history. 
Fire can be Satan, it is VERY scary. My prayers and heart go out to these people 
who have lost everything.
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  4 10:52:40 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 09:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] SU type carbs
Message-ID: <344168.89117.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

My wife has a 1966 1600. The power pistons for the choke stick after the car warms up and will not start unless manually unstick them. I had one wrong piston in it and bought one from a member here, Keith. A BIG thanks to him. Also was looking for top bows and have had quite a few responses. Is there something I need to do? I have oiled them, polished the contact surfaces but still one sticks. 

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  4 11:58:53 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 10:58:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold
Message-ID: <714778.40309.qm@web58604.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Has anyone done the Weber manifold/carb swap? My gals car is a nice 1966 1600.It has been on the NET as "orange burst" 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2254399

Does anyone have a set up for this car? Any info on parts needed?

From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Fri Sep  4 12:15:00 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (vze2fhba at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 13:15:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold
Message-ID: <1839094279.484623.1252088100984.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

/7ig6rI: Permission denied

From hallosb at juno.com  Fri Sep  4 15:28:17 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 21:28:17 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold
Message-ID: <20090904.142817.27994.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>

I don't have Webers. I have stock SUs. But, I would be hesitant to try Webers.
When you start modifying the carburetion, you have to look at the engine as a
whole. If you try to cram more fuel and air into an engine without considering
the cylinder heads, cam profile, and exhaust, you're likely to run into
problems. Too much carb can kill performance. It's all a balancing act.
my two cents.
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Online Fashon Degrees
Start earning an online fashion degree from the Art Institutes
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=Q_xa_CCVeSuxGQ8EWJDL1QAAJz3b-7K
uMPJffYsq3MtsBROGAAQAAAAFAAAAAARWTj4AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAFRE3AAAAAA==

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Fri Sep  4 15:47:00 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 14:47:00 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold
References: <20090904.142817.27994.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <A7C3185BA9D74F9E883123AC12DE4B93@Daryl>

My reading over the last couple of years has me believing a correctly sized 
and jetted Weber/Solex/Mikuni carb setup should add performance (over the 
SU's) throughout the rpm range, regardless of the rest of the engine build, 
although not much point if you never exceed 3000 rpm...........
Just do your homework to get the correct size and jetting......
My $0.02, fwiw............

Daryl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <hallosb at juno.com>


>I don't have Webers. I have stock SUs. But, I would be hesitant to try 
>Webers.
> When you start modifying the carburetion, you have to look at the engine 
> as a
> whole. If you try to cram more fuel and air into an engine without 
> considering
> the cylinder heads, cam profile, and exhaust, you're likely to run into
> problems. Too much carb can kill performance. It's all a balancing act.
> my two cents.
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  4 16:54:37 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 15:54:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Metering rod
Message-ID: <689810.72292.qm@web58604.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I found out why the piston was sticking. A bent metering rod. Does any one know where I can purchase any? The car is a 1966 1600 SPL311.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep  4 17:50:07 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 18:50:07 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold
References: <20090904.142817.27994.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <77634E35CA0544FC829FCBDE0BF2C2D9@ranteer.local>

i know from experience, on another car, that if you substantially increase 
the carburation you will get more power.  but not more performance.

dan is absolutely right - heads, cam, etc.  it all adds up.

my older brother once told me, and i think from experience, if you upgrade 
one thing, it will point out the weakness in something else.  upgrade that, 
and it will point out . . .

rinse and repeat


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <hallosb at juno.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold


>I don't have Webers. I have stock SUs. But, I would be hesitant to try 
>Webers.
> When you start modifying the carburetion, you have to look at the engine 
> as a
> whole. If you try to cram more fuel and air into an engine without 
> considering
> the cylinder heads, cam profile, and exhaust, you're likely to run into
> problems. Too much carb can kill performance. It's all a balancing act.
> my two cents.
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600
> ____________________________________________________________

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Fri Sep  4 20:26:22 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 19:26:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber carbs and manifold
References: <20090904.142817.27994.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
	<77634E35CA0544FC829FCBDE0BF2C2D9@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <C1A595DEA227465C95EE58AF92217D26@Daryl>

>>i know from experience, on another car, that if you substantially increase
>> the carburation you will get more power.  but not more performance.
>>
>>dan is absolutely right - heads, cam, etc.  it all adds up.

Absolutely correct when you are talking about OVERcarburation. It is 
possible to get Webers etc. in different sizes however, and substantially 
change the airflow characteristics, for the better, without overcarburating.
For instance a set of 40mm  solexes on an otherwise stock SU 2L car would 
likely pick up some performance.

For an otherwise stock 1600, 40's would likely be overdoing it. Something 
like a motorcycle carb in about a 36mm would be more suitable.

>> my older brother once told me, and i think from experience, if you 
>> upgrade one thing, it will point out the weakness in something else. 
>> upgrade that, and it will point out . . .

Is that why I went to bulding a stroker....with efi....and crankfired 
ignition....and electric fan....and GM alternator....and 240SX 5 
spd.......and......

Daryl
'Stock' just doesn't cut it anymore!

>
> rinse and repeat
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <hallosb at juno.com>
>
>>I don't have Webers. I have stock SUs. But, I would be hesitant to try 
>>Webers.
>> When you start modifying the carburetion, you have to look at the engine 
>> as a
>> whole. If you try to cram more fuel and air into an engine without 
>> considering
>> the cylinder heads, cam profile, and exhaust, you're likely to run into
>> problems. Too much carb can kill performance. It's all a balancing act.
>> my two cents.
>> Dan McHatton
>> '66 1600

From hallosb at juno.com  Sat Sep  5 07:56:32 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 13:56:32 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
Message-ID: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>

I removed all the glass, emblems, handles, etc. to get it ready for body work.
I completely disassembled, cleaned and painted all my suspension pieces and
painted them with chassis black, satin finish.  I also painted the engine bay
with the same satin black finish.
The car is running, brakes are perfect, wires all neatly wrapped. My engine
compartment looks pretty good.
The interior is all stripped out. Seats, console, door panels removed.
However, the dash pad and gauges are still in tact.
I'm about to spend big money having the body stripped to bare metal, correct
some poorly done body work, and painted.
Now, for the opinion poll. Should I go through the agony of pulling the
motor/tranny so, the firewall and inner fenders can be painted with the rest
of the car?  Should I pull the dash pad, gauges to have the dash painted?
One other point, I should add.  The motor vibrates quite a bit so, I'm
guessing I have a bad motor mount.
TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600


____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrDgzHxM8EBsSigXMsEBD1hV5
6b0UlRYcq6o9tzxL7pukJAcEUY/

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sat Sep  5 09:13:18 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:13:18 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
In-Reply-To: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFC5288448415-1E30-801F@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>

 Dan,
Alot of people paint the engine bay the body color. I like it better, my opinion.
I'm sure your car will look great when it is finished.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 6:56 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please










I removed all the glass, emblems, handles, etc. to get it ready for body work.
I completely disassembled, cleaned and painted all my suspension pieces and
painted them with chassis black, satin finish.  I also painted the engine bay
with the same satin black finish.
The car is running, brakes are perfect, wires all neatly wrapped. My engine
compartment looks pretty good.
The interior is all stripped out. Seats, console, door panels removed.
However, the dash pad and gauges are still in tact.
I'm about to spend big money having the body stripped to bare metal, correct
some poorly done body work, and painted.
Now, for the opinion poll. Should I go through the agony of pulling the
motor/tranny so, the firewall and inner fenders can be painted with the rest
of the car?  Should I pull the dash pad, gauges to have the dash painted?
One other point, I should add.  The motor vibrates quite a bit so, I'm
guessing I have a bad motor mount.
TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600


____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrDgzHxM8EBsSigXMsEBD1hV5
6b0UlRYcq6o9tzxL7pukJAcEUY/
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From garytew at cox.net  Sat Sep  5 09:26:35 2009
From: garytew at cox.net (garytew at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 11:26:35 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
In-Reply-To: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <20090905112635.NZ2G2.67850.imail@fed1rmwml45>

Dan, I would go all the way!  Pull the dash, pull the motor, pul whatever you can.  I did it with my car and I am so pleased with the result.  You have already done a great deal of work on the car.  Pulling these final few items will make your restoration more complete and you more happy.  I don't think your costs are going to be that much more.  I painted my engine bay the same color as the car and painted the area in front of the radiator and behind the grill black, BTW.  Good luck and enjoy the journey.

Gary Tew
'67 1600, VG30 conversion
www.members.cox.net/garytew

  
---- "hallosb at juno.com" <hallosb at juno.com> wrote: 
> I removed all the glass, emblems, handles, etc. to get it ready for body work.
> I completely disassembled, cleaned and painted all my suspension pieces and
> painted them with chassis black, satin finish.  I also painted the engine bay
> with the same satin black finish.
> The car is running, brakes are perfect, wires all neatly wrapped. My engine
> compartment looks pretty good.
> The interior is all stripped out. Seats, console, door panels removed.
> However, the dash pad and gauges are still in tact.
> I'm about to spend big money having the body stripped to bare metal, correct
> some poorly done body work, and painted.
> Now, for the opinion poll. Should I go through the agony of pulling the
> motor/tranny so, the firewall and inner fenders can be painted with the rest
> of the car?  Should I pull the dash pad, gauges to have the dash painted?
> One other point, I should add.  The motor vibrates quite a bit so, I'm
> guessing I have a bad motor mount.
> TIA,
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrDgzHxM8EBsSigXMsEBD1hV5
> 6b0UlRYcq6o9tzxL7pukJAcEUY/
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as garytew at cox.net
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 09:34:31 2009
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 08:34:31 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
In-Reply-To: <8CBFC5288448415-1E30-801F@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
	<8CBFC5288448415-1E30-801F@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <b0b0059f0909050834s61ab16f0m87909e524cc2ff5d@mail.gmail.com>

For the most part I do agree with Linda.  The engine bay the same color of
the car look really nice. However there are some cases, depending on the
body color I like a nice black satin in the engine bay.




On Sat, Sep 5, 2009 at 8:13 AM, <ljordan704 at netscape.net> wrote:

>  Dan,
> Alot of people paint the engine bay the body color. I like it better, my
> opinion.
> I'm sure your car will look great when it is finished.
>
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 6:56 am
> Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I removed all the glass, emblems, handles, etc. to get it ready for body
> work.
> I completely disassembled, cleaned and painted all my suspension pieces and
> painted them with chassis black, satin finish.  I also painted the engine
> bay
> with the same satin black finish.
> The car is running, brakes are perfect, wires all neatly wrapped. My engine
> compartment looks pretty good.
> The interior is all stripped out. Seats, console, door panels removed.
> However, the dash pad and gauges are still in tact.
> I'm about to spend big money having the body stripped to bare metal,
> correct
> some poorly done body work, and painted.
> Now, for the opinion poll. Should I go through the agony of pulling the
> motor/tranny so, the firewall and inner fenders can be painted with the
> rest
> of the car?  Should I pull the dash pad, gauges to have the dash painted?
> One other point, I should add.  The motor vibrates quite a bit so, I'm
> guessing I have a bad motor mount.
> TIA,
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrDgzHxM8EBsSigXMsEBD1hV5
> 6b0UlRYcq6o9tzxL7pukJAcEUY/
> You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.

From tom at datsun2000.com  Sat Sep  5 09:51:58 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 08:51:58 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Question about front springs
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGCEOMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

I have recently brought a parts car home.  The body has heavy rust and bondo
in places, but I have noticed some interesting parts.  The 70 right front
fender is basically NOS, as are some of the center front body pieces.  These
parts are still wearing factory primer and in perfect condition.  These will
be looking for a new home one of these days.  The shocks appear to be KONI,
and will go to Mr. Hyde.  There was also a comp sway bar hiding under the
pile of junk that will also go to Mr. Hyde.

The front springs appear to be new.  From what I understand the chassis was
prepared for racing, so they could be comp springs.  They have a yellow band
painted on them.  What does the color signify?

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org



GIVE ME MY FREEDOM, MY GUNS, AND MY MONEY..... KEEP THE CHANGE !!!!

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sat Sep  5 09:58:03 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:58:03 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
In-Reply-To: <b0b0059f0909050834s61ab16f0m87909e524cc2ff5d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
	<8CBFC5288448415-1E30-801F@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
	<b0b0059f0909050834s61ab16f0m87909e524cc2ff5d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFC58C8ED7F75-1E30-84F6@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>

 For the most part I agree with Chris, but if it is going to be black, I prefer a gloss or semi gloss black 

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Christy Breyer <fairlady66 at gmail.com>
To: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Cc: hallosb at juno.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 8:34 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Opinions please










For the most part I do agree with Linda.? The engine bay the same color of the car look really nice. However there are some cases, depending on the body color I like a nice black?satin in the engine bay.


?




?


On Sat, Sep 5, 2009 at 8:13 AM, <ljordan704 at netscape.net> wrote:


?Dan,
Alot of people paint the engine bay the body color. I like it better, my opinion.
I'm sure your car will look great when it is finished.


Linda







-----Original Message-----
From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 6:56 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please










I removed all the glass, emblems, handles, etc. to get it ready for body work.
I completely disassembled, cleaned and painted all my suspension pieces and

painted them with chassis black, satin finish. ?I also painted the engine bay
with the same satin black finish.
The car is running, brakes are perfect, wires all neatly wrapped. My engine
compartment looks pretty good.

The interior is all stripped out. Seats, console, door panels removed.
However, the dash pad and gauges are still in tact.
I'm about to spend big money having the body stripped to bare metal, correct
some poorly done body work, and painted.

Now, for the opinion poll. Should I go through the agony of pulling the
motor/tranny so, the firewall and inner fenders can be painted with the rest
of the car? ?Should I pull the dash pad, gauges to have the dash painted?

One other point, I should add. ?The motor vibrates quite a bit so, I'm
guessing I have a bad motor mount.
TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600


____________________________________________________________

Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrDgzHxM8EBsSigXMsEBD1hV5

6b0UlRYcq6o9tzxL7pukJAcEUY/
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive


http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive


http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters








-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky enough.

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sat Sep  5 10:05:37 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 12:05:37 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Valve spring compressor tools
Message-ID: <8CBFC59D7A13DD5-1E30-85CC@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>

Hi List, 
I posted this to 311 also, but thought i would try here too. Which of the following tools would work the best for an on the car valve spring removal? This is a Sears link showing many different kinds of compressor tools:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=valve+spring+compressor&relatedwords=valve+spring+compressor+tool&x=0&y=0
It is a 1600 and No the head does not need to come off. I want to put some valve seals in this weekend but have never done that before. I know the steps but getting a compressor to work is the main problem.
Thanks!
Linda

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Sep  5 10:43:04 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 11:43:04 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Opinions please
References: <20090905.065632.13320.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com><8CBFC5288448415-1E30-801F@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com><b0b0059f0909050834s61ab16f0m87909e524cc2ff5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CBFC58C8ED7F75-1E30-84F6@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <421AFE789AAE46D687FC28CEED5ABF96@ranteer.local>

my opinion - paint the engine compartment body color.

i powder coated my dash the same approximate color as the body.  that looks 
good.
it would also look good, i think, in a contrasting color.
or wood veneer or a faux wood, too.  someone - alvin? has a gorgeous faux 
wood dash.


>
> I removed all the glass, emblems, handles, etc. to get it ready for body 
> work.
> I completely disassembled, cleaned and painted all my suspension pieces 
> and
>
> painted them with chassis black, satin finish. ?I also painted the engine 
> bay
> with the same satin black finish.
> The car is running, brakes are perfect, wires all neatly wrapped. My 
> engine
> compartment looks pretty good.
>
> The interior is all stripped out. Seats, console, door panels removed.
> However, the dash pad and gauges are still in tact.
> I'm about to spend big money having the body stripped to bare metal, 
> correct
> some poorly done body work, and painted.
>
> Now, for the opinion poll. Should I go through the agony of pulling the
> motor/tranny so, the firewall and inner fenders can be painted with the 
> rest
> of the car? ?Should I pull the dash pad, gauges to have the dash painted?
>
> One other point, I should add. ?The motor vibrates quite a bit so, I'm
> guessing I have a bad motor mount.
> TIA,
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Sat Sep  5 10:43:41 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 12:43:41 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Valve spring compressor tools
In-Reply-To: <8CBFC59D7A13DD5-1E30-85CC@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBFC59D7A13DD5-1E30-85CC@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <002a01ca2e48$090c6250$1b2526f0$@net>

Linda,

  At Sloan Racing, we use cotton rope!  Stuff as much into the cylinder
through the spark plug hole with the piston at the bottom of the stroke.
Then turn the motor over by hand until the cylinder is pushing hard against
the rope.  Compress the valve spring and pull the keepers.  Install new
seals, compress the springs and re-install the keepers.  Turn the motor
backwards to lower the cylinder, and pull out the rope.  And since you've
used cotton rope, and only cotton rope, any threads left will go up in smoke
without damaging the motor.  I used this method on my Ford Cortina back in
1972, and have been using it ever since.

  The compressed air tools/systems are nice, until your compressor stops, a
power failure, blown fuse, busted hose, or bad rings let the valve drop!

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of ljordan704 at netscape.net


Hi List, 
I posted this to 311 also, but thought i would try here too. Which of the
following tools would work the best for an on the car valve spring removal?
This is a Sears link showing many different kinds of compressor tools:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=valve+spring+compresso
r&relatedwords=valve+spring+compressor+tool&x=0&y=0
It is a 1600 and No the head does not need to come off. I want to put some
valve seals in this weekend but have never done that before. I know the
steps but getting a compressor to work is the main problem.
Thanks!
Linda

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sat Sep  5 10:49:58 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 12:49:58 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Valve spring compressor tools
In-Reply-To: <002a01ca2e48$090c6250$1b2526f0$@net>
References: <8CBFC59D7A13DD5-1E30-85CC@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
	<002a01ca2e48$090c6250$1b2526f0$@net>
Message-ID: <8CBFC6009B5CD35-1E30-8A1D@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Paul,
Yes I will be using rope only. Low tech for me!
I just need to be able to get the darn springs compressed. What tool do you use on the car?

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul <9laser3 at bright.net>
To: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Cc: 'datsun-roadsters' <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Valve spring compressor tools










Linda,

  At Sloan Racing, we use cotton rope!  Stuff as much into the cylinder
through the spark plug hole with the piston at the bottom of the stroke.
Then turn the motor over by hand until the cylinder is pushing hard against
the rope.  Compress the valve spring and pull the keepers.  Install new
seals, compress the springs and re-install the keepers.  Turn the motor
backwards to lower the cylinder, and pull out the rope.  And since you've
used cotton rope, and only cotton rope, any threads left will go up in smoke
without damaging the motor.  I used this method on my Ford Cortina back in
1972, and have been using it ever since.

  The compressed air tools/systems are nice, until your compressor stops, a
power failure, blown fuse, busted hose, or bad rings let the valve drop!

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of ljordan704 at netscape.net


Hi List, 
I posted this to 311 also, but thought i would try here too. Which of the
following tools would work the best for an on the car valve spring removal?
This is a Sears link showing many different kinds of compressor tools:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=valve+spring+compresso
r&relatedwords=valve+spring+compressor+tool&x=0&y=0
It is a 1600 and No the head does not need to come off. I want to put some
valve seals in this weekend but have never done that before. I know the
steps but getting a compressor to work is the main problem.
Thanks!
Linda

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  5 13:59:56 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 12:59:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold
Message-ID: <5238.29056.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hi all,

I want to get rid of the SU type carbs. I have 3 MGs and have had many more for 30 years. I need or shall I say my woman needs?/wants a dependable sports car. She has a 1986 Honda Accord and a GMC 1 ton van. She keeps getting stranded and I have to go and get the car running. By the way the car has a after market tube header, medium lift cam. I have been building small block Chevys for 3 decades also. I shoe-horned a 302 ci (327 block with 283 crank) dual quad tunnel ram, 12 1/2 to 1 forged pistons, 202 heads.....you get the picture into a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4 and a similar engine in a 1964 TR-4 both tubbed with a 9" rearend.

I need a "child proof" carb system. I am also looking for metering rods as one is bent and the choke piston sticks. Car is very hard to start. I am thinking since the breathing has already been updated a Weber system might be the way to go.

Does the Weber or any other carb have an accelerator pump? 

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:17:12 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 16:17:12 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold
In-Reply-To: <5238.29056.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <5238.29056.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80909051417q7ca15ff8h71be377a89821cab@mail.gmail.com>

David Boerst

I want to get rid of the SU type carbs. I have 3 MGs and have had many more
for 30 years. I need or shall I say my woman needs?/wants a dependable
sports car. She has a 1986 Honda Accord and a GMC 1 ton van. She keeps
getting stranded and I have to go and get the car running. By the way the
car has a after market tube header, medium lift cam. I have been building
small block Chevys for 3 decades also. I shoe-horned a 302 ci (327 block
with 283 crank) dual quad tunnel ram, 12 1/2 to 1 forged pistons, 202
heads.....you get the picture into a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4 and a similar
engine in a 1964 TR-4 both tubbed with a 9" rearend.

I need a "child proof" carb system. I am also looking for metering rods as
one is bent and the choke piston sticks. Car is very hard to start. I am
thinking since the breathing has already been updated a Weber system might
be the way to go.

Does the Weber or any other carb have an accelerator pump?
*************************************************************************

David,

SUs, in good condition and setup properly, are far better for street use and
much track use than Webers or Solexs. That said worn out SUs like I have on
my '70 2000 aren't so hot either, as you've found out. However, don't expect
to simply stick a set of totally different/usually bigger carbs on a stock
motor and have your problem cured, because they won't be. Get a good set of
SUs and get them set up right. You won't regret it.

Check out Keith Williams' Roadster Ranch (
http://www.datsunroadsterranch.com/) and Z-Therapy (http://ztherapy.com/)
for excellent SU info and remanufactured SU sets.

HTH,
Ron

From Bspark47 at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 20:55:23 2009
From: Bspark47 at aol.com (Bspark47 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 22:55:23 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold
Message-ID: <d54.5a4146ad.37d47e9b@aol.com>

Don't know who may be interested, but I have a NOS set of Hitachi/SUs that  
I don't need. They are 1.5" but I know they were not originally for 1600 or 
2000  engines. The float bowl mounting is at a slightly different angle, 
but easily  changed (a small notch is required at the mounting flange). The 
needles and  jetting and whatnot may or may not be correct, but they are 
absolutely brand  new. It's my favorite carb, but they don't work so easily on 
flat engines.
 
Just thought I'd throw it out there. Please contact me off-list if you are  
interested.
 
Bill
70

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Sat Sep  5 23:37:41 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 22:37:41 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Valve spring compressor tools
In-Reply-To: <8CBFC59D7A13DD5-1E30-85CC@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBFC59D7A13DD5-1E30-85CC@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <002201ca2eb4$273f47d0$75bdd770$@net>

I'd go with one of these:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00901533000P?keyword=valve+spring+c
ompressor
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999823000P?keyword=valve+spring+c
ompressor#descriptionAnchor


Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ljordan704 at netscape.net
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 9:06 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Valve spring compressor tools

Hi List, 
I posted this to 311 also, but thought i would try here too. Which of the
following tools would work the best for an on the car valve spring removal?
This is a Sears link showing many different kinds of compressor tools:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=valve+spring+compresso
r&relatedwords=valve+spring+compressor+tool&x=0&y=0
It is a 1600 and No the head does not need to come off. I want to put some
valve seals in this weekend but have never done that before. I know the
steps but getting a compressor to work is the main problem.
Thanks!
Linda
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sun Sep  6 06:29:56 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 05:29:56 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] NOS Hitachi/Su's available (was "RE: Weber and
	manifold")
References: <d54.5a4146ad.37d47e9b@aol.com> 
Message-ID: <A81CEAD072CE48A99DFC2439FEFE4169@xp>

1.5 inch = 38mm

38mm SU/Hitachis were also used on the R16 motor in RL411's, and 510 L16/L18
motors. Both used different intake manifolds than our roadsters. From
Ztherapy website:

"Imported into the US on imported raw engines, these are very rare.  These
are mirror image like the 2L and Z, but are only 38 mm and the carbs are
spaced very closely together.   Fitted to the 1600, 1800 510 cars.  These
use the SSS manifold, and the Z style float chamber is indexed and tipped
back to keep it level."

Since you mention the float bowl angle, I'm guessing these are what you
have.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bspark47 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 7:55 PM
To: ronnie.day at gmail.com; dboerst at yahoo.com
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold

Don't know who may be interested, but I have a NOS set of Hitachi/SUs that I
don't need. They are 1.5" but I know they were not originally for 1600 or
2000  engines. The float bowl mounting is at a slightly different angle, but
easily  changed (a small notch is required at the mounting flange). The
needles and  jetting and whatnot may or may not be correct, but they are
absolutely brand  new. It's my favorite carb, but they don't work so easily
on flat engines.
 
Just thought I'd throw it out there. Please contact me off-list if you are
interested.
 
Bill
70

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 07:28:51 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 09:28:51 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold
Message-ID: <beb.4ae08dd4.37d51313@aol.com>

Once the SU carbs are sorted they are about as fool proof as it gets. The
Hitachi version is easier to adjust and more stable that the original
British  version. The metering needles need to be matched between the two
carbs.
Either  verify what is in the other one or replace both of them. You had a
mismatched  piston so there is no telling what needle was in it. If they are
mismatched the  car will not run right.

    The Webber carbs are nice as they are infinitely  adjustable with all
of the jets and such. Of course, if you don't have the jets  or skill
required they are infinitely misadjustable. How many of us have seen a  car
that
idles badly, has a flat midrange, but runs great at top end. The excuse  being
"they are racing carbs". The Webber, Solex, Delorto carbs all have
accelerator pumps as far as I know. The SU doesn't as it fixes that problem
differently.

    The answer is to use the carbs that you like and  are comfortable with.
Any properly sized carb in good condition and set up  properly will work
well.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 9/5/2009 1:04:00 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dboerst at yahoo.com writes:

Hi  all,

I want to get rid of the SU type carbs. I have 3 MGs and have had  many
more for 30 years. I need or shall I say my woman needs?/wants a  dependable
sports car. She has a 1986 Honda Accord and a GMC 1 ton van. She  keeps
getting stranded and I have to go and get the car running. By the way  the car
has
a after market tube header, medium lift cam. I have been building  small
block Chevys for 3 decades also. I shoe-horned a 302 ci (327 block with  283
crank) dual quad tunnel ram, 12 1/2 to 1 forged pistons, 202 heads.....you
get the picture into a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4 and a similar engine in a
1964  TR-4 both tubbed with a 9" rearend.

I need a "child proof" carb system.  I am also looking for metering rods as
one is bent and the choke piston  sticks. Car is very hard to start. I am
thinking since the breathing has  already been updated a Weber system might
be the way to go.

Does the  Weber or any other carb have an accelerator pump?
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 07:41:38 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 09:41:38 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold
Message-ID: <cb9.568efdd3.37d51612@aol.com>

Those would have been for the SSS sedan. It used an R16 motor but a
different manifold and the rotated float bowls. The carbs are mounted pointed
slightly upward requiring the rotated float bowls. Some of the racing folks
preferred this manifold. I have a couple of the manifolds for these carbs if
any  one is interested.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 9/5/2009 8:16:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Bspark47 at aol.com writes:

Don't  know who may be interested, but I have a NOS set of Hitachi/SUs that

I don't need. They are 1.5" but I know they were not originally for 1600
or
2000  engines. The float bowl mounting is at a slightly different  angle,
but easily  changed (a small notch is required at the mounting  flange).
The
needles and  jetting and whatnot may or may not be  correct, but they are
absolutely brand  new. It's my favorite carb,  but they don't work so
easily on
flat engines.

Just thought I'd  throw it out there. Please contact me off-list if you are

interested.

Bill
70
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From u2johny at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 16:35:16 2009
From: u2johny at yahoo.com (John Aragao)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:35:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] remove my name from list
Message-ID: <650457.93844.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

thanks, I no longer want to receive roadster emails
 
John

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Sun Sep  6 17:03:33 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 18:03:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] remove my name from list
In-Reply-To: <650457.93844.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <650457.93844.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AA43FC5.6060303@mail.utexas.edu>

Look at the bottom of any of the email you receive from this list and 
click on the

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters link. You will find there the method to remove yourself from the list.



Thusly spake John Aragao, On 9/6/2009 5:35 PM:
> thanks, I no longer want to receive roadster emails
>  
> John
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Sun Sep  6 20:02:11 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 19:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
Message-ID: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>

Ebay item # 120464958823. 

Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be. Dizzy is above the alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet is also on the port side. 

Is this motor from a RHD car??

Tim

From roadsterx at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 20:06:00 2009
From: roadsterx at hotmail.com (michael poorboy)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 02:06:00 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
In-Reply-To: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
References: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5BFD7DA964C3B87A16DB4BFEB0@phx.gbl>

Read the information on the car. It says it has an L20B in it ;)

> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 19:02:11 -0700
> From: tputland at charter.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
>
> Ebay item # 120464958823.
>
> Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be. Dizzy is above the
alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet is also on the port
side.
>
> Is this motor from a RHD car??
>
> Tim
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as roadsterx at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  6 20:08:19 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:08:19 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
References: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
Message-ID: <16D5773635F3425DA72E12428CD32BF2@ranteer.local>

if anyone on the list buys it i have a set of the letters that go on the 
front.  or, if anyone needs a set contact me off list.  they are the plastic 
ones. 

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sun Sep  6 21:15:05 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 20:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5BFD7DA964C3B87A16DB4BFEB0@phx.gbl>
References: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
	<BAY110-W5BFD7DA964C3B87A16DB4BFEB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FF2B0E3869B24E4B9989F03846452519@xp>

Here's a direct link if anyone is interested:

<http://tinyurl.com/nqny9l>

Outside pretty, but that engine compartment has a lot of oxidation.
Moisture? Water leak?

Pete 

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael
poorboy
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 7:06 PM
To: tputland at charter.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??

Read the information on the car. It says it has an L20B in it ;)


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 7:02 PM
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??

Ebay item # 120464958823. 

Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be. Dizzy is above the
alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet is also on the port
side. 

Is this motor from a RHD car??

Tim

From jover4x4 at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 22:01:14 2009
From: jover4x4 at aol.com (jover4x4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 2009 00:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
In-Reply-To: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
References: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
Message-ID: <8CBFD86FA21453F-24E0-17171@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com>

Tim,



Its an L series engine stuffed in there.? That was a?swap popular?in the 80s.? 



John Over









-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 8:02 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??





Ebay item # 120464958823. 

Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be. Dizzy is above the 
alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet is also on the port 
side. 

Is this motor from a RHD car??

Tim
You are subscribed as jover4x4 at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 22:17:20 2009
From: vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com (Vince Strazzabosco)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:17:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
In-Reply-To: <FF2B0E3869B24E4B9989F03846452519@xp>
Message-ID: <256690.45641.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Being in Milwaukee, it might be that the car is being stored somewhere where
the air is pretty damp for part of the year.

vince

--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Pete
Peters <ppeters914 at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Pete Peters
<ppeters914 at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this
car??
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009,
10:15 PM
> Here's a direct link if anyone is
> interested:
> 
>
<http://tinyurl.com/nqny9l>
> 
> Outside pretty, but that engine compartment
has a lot of
> oxidation.
> Moisture? Water leak?
> 
> Pete 
> 
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of michael
>
poorboy
> Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 7:06 PM
> To: tputland at charter.net;
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What's wrong with
this car??
> 
> Read the information on the car. It says it has an L20B in
>
it ;)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tim
> Sent:
Sunday, September 06, 2009 7:02 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
>
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
> 
> Ebay item #
120464958823. 
> 
> Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be.
Dizzy
> is above the
> alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet
is
> also on the port
> side. 
> 
> Is this motor from a RHD car??
> 
> Tim
>
________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  7 00:51:56 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 06:51:56 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] '65-67.6 160mph Speedo/Tach
Message-ID: <SNT104-W2266AB2F81A6A5C81D6BACB5EB0@phx.gbl>

I am selling chrome trimmed 160mph speedo and 7k tach from my roadster, pics
here:
http://news.webshots.com/album/199632652oPsRxp
$400obo for both


Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20


_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  7 05:32:40 2009
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 04:32:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
In-Reply-To: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
Message-ID: <53551.81774.qm@web63704.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I'm guessing a piece of trash at the needle valve entering your float chanber.
Worth a look.

Mike Harper, CAI, AARE
Harper Auction & Realty
843-729-4996
"Experience Sells"

www.AuctionMyRealEstate.NET


--- On Wed, 8/26/09, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
> To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, August 26, 2009, 6:18 PM
> I put what should have been a good
> fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend. After strong running for
> a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on an
> uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a
> corner onto a flat area, the car started back up and I was
> able to drive home.
>
> Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was
> stranded the first time a few weeks ago.
>
> When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow
> into a jar, the flow seems fine. The car seems to run just
> fine at idle. But I am now kind of hesitant to take her out
> without knowing what is up.
>
> I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see
> through fuel filter. This fuel filter looks fine.
>
> any other thoughts on this issue?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Mon Sep  7 05:33:00 2009
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 06:33:00 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
In-Reply-To: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
References: <20090906220211.I9K7U.4836736.root@mp19>
Message-ID: <000001ca2fae$f50b64a0$df222de0$@net>

Group,

If someone on the list is interested in this car I'll be happy to drive over
and take a look at it.

Steve Harvey
Milwaukee

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 9:02 PM
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??

Ebay item # 120464958823. 

Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be. Dizzy is above the
alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet is also on the port
side. 

Is this motor from a RHD car??

Tim
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From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  7 09:17:42 2009
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 08:17:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Weber and manifold
In-Reply-To: <2faaebf80909051417q7ca15ff8h71be377a89821cab@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <865026.65507.qm@web63702.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

David, I have had MG's also.  The Skinner-Union Carbs and the Hitachi SU's are almost identical in design, but that is where the comparison ends IMHO.  The Japanese took the design and made it work.  If the components are not worn out, once you do a basic rebuild and set them once, you likely will not have ti fiddle with them again.  So much more trouble free than the Brits - I was amazed.  I swear by my Hitachi SU's.  YMMV

Mike Harper, CAI, AARE 
Harper Auction & Realty 
843-729-4996 
"Experience Sells" 

www.AuctionMyRealEstate.NET

From stevenehlers at charter.net  Mon Sep  7 10:48:21 2009
From: stevenehlers at charter.net (Steve Ehlers)
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 2009 11:48:21 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story and EI distributors
Message-ID: <4AA53955.1020004@charter.net>


From jeffzster at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  7 13:44:12 2009
From: jeffzster at yahoo.com (Jeff Torres)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 12:44:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Aluminum Radiator Set-up for a 1600
Message-ID: <645246.35120.qm@web110416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hey All,
 
Looking to put in a 3 row aluminum radiator set-up in my 1600. Saw an Ebay ad
for "Champion" brand radiators for a 1600. Does anyone have a Champion? Do
they bolt right up? Anyone know of other alumimum, radiator suppliers? Info
would be helpful!
 
Thanks!
 
Jeff T.
1600
Lemoore, CA

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Mon Sep  7 14:33:46 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 2009 13:33:46 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Aluminum Radiator Set-up for a 1600
In-Reply-To: <645246.35120.qm@web110416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <645246.35120.qm@web110416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AA56E2A.3030509@socal.rr.com>

The Champion radiators do bolt right in HOWEVER, there are a couple of 
things you should know.

They DO NOT FIT "all" 1600 motors like they are listed on Ebay.

The fan shrouds on the 1600's had different bolt holes depending on the 
years. 

The vertical distance between the fan shroud mounting holes was either 
6.25" for PRE 1967.5 and 7" for the POST 1967.5 years.

(My Champion radiator had the 6.25 vertical distance. and fit my 1966  
1600.)  HOWEVER, the two bolt holes underneath the radiator for the air 
scoop were NOT in the right spot. 

So, if you want to use a stock fan shroud, AND your vehicle is POST 
1967.5, odds are it won't fit. 

IF you're going electric, OR your existing fan shroud is the earlier 
model, it shouldn't matter.  Not sure what the issue of the bottom air 
scoop holes is. 

BTW, I have some 3 row radiators that have been gone completely over by 
a reputable radiator shop that I'm selling for less than you'd buy a 
Champion for.  Anyone who's interested can Email me off list.  

Eddie

Jeff Torres wrote:
> Hey All,
>  
> Looking to put in a 3 row aluminum radiator set-up in my 1600. Saw an Ebay ad
> for "Champion" brand radiators for a 1600. Does anyone have a Champion? Do
> they bolt right up? Anyone know of other alumimum, radiator suppliers? Info
> would be helpful!
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> Jeff T.
> 1600
> Lemoore, CA
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Mon Sep  7 16:50:41 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 18:50:41 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What's wrong with this car??
In-Reply-To: <000001ca2fae$f50b64a0$df222de0$@net>
Message-ID: <1621770E0FEC416CA7926498A242D1D6@delled48909442>

L-20B motor swap, saya it on line 1.  If done well, not a bad setup.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Harvey [mailto:stebharvey at ameritech.net]

Group,

If someone on the list is interested in this car I'll be happy to drive over
and take a look at it.

Steve Harvey
Milwaukee

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net

Ebay item # 120464958823.

Fuel pump is sitting where the water inlet should be. Dizzy is above the
alternator on the driver's side of the car. Water inlet is also on the port
side.

Is this motor from a RHD car??

Tim
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From geegc at aol.com  Mon Sep  7 23:30:34 2009
From: geegc at aol.com (geegc at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 01:30:34 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Engine hoist in LA
Message-ID: <8CBFE5C9FB4D9EE-BDC-20896@webmail-m019.sysops.aol.com>

I have an extra heavy engine hoist and balance (5000 lbs) for sale, way more than needed for a roadster, but it has pulled engines out of my 2000 and 1600 several times.? Much more substantial than the ones sold in AutoZone or PepBoys.

Its in Silver Lake, near Dodger Stadium, $120 gets it, I am beyond pulling engines at this point, and could use the room in my garage.

Thought I would offer it to the list before I put it on craigslist.

Gary C

From hallosb at juno.com  Tue Sep  8 07:48:36 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 13:48:36 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
Message-ID: <20090908.064836.26900.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>

First, a thanks for all the responses on the engine bay color opinion poll.
I spent the weekend doing an inventory on the chrome for my Roadster. I used
some hand polish to check the condition and was surprised to see how well it
cleaned up. I would like to polish all my chrome and stainless. Any parts that
don't clean up or need repair, I'll send out for re-conditioning.
Since I don't think I would use a dedicated buffing machine very often, I
would like to buy a bench grinder and then a set of buffing wheels/polishes.
Any suggestions on a good grinder. I hear the cheap Harbor Freight grinders
vibrate badly. I would like something nice that will last.
I'm also not sure whether to buy a dual speed. I understand you need a lower
rpm for buffing plastic. There's not much plastic to buff so, maybe it's not
worth the expense.
TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrFguBPIgN08cQWsUYiOVFE6D
RnTqBXmuWgtJpP2p7a5pUyrJLq/

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep  8 08:06:19 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 7:06:19 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <20090908.064836.26900.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <20090908100619.8TG78.4785772.root@mp12>

I need a grinder as well, so please post to the list, or at least CC me. Thanks!
Tim

---- "hallosb at juno.com" <hallosb at juno.com> wrote: 

=============
First, a thanks for all the responses on the engine bay color opinion poll.
I spent the weekend doing an inventory on the chrome for my Roadster. I used
some hand polish to check the condition and was surprised to see how well it
cleaned up. I would like to polish all my chrome and stainless. Any parts that
don't clean up or need repair, I'll send out for re-conditioning.
Since I don't think I would use a dedicated buffing machine very often, I
would like to buy a bench grinder and then a set of buffing wheels/polishes.
Any suggestions on a good grinder. I hear the cheap Harbor Freight grinders
vibrate badly. I would like something nice that will last.
I'm also not sure whether to buy a dual speed. I understand you need a lower
rpm for buffing plastic. There's not much plastic to buff so, maybe it's not
worth the expense.
TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrFguBPIgN08cQWsUYiOVFE6D
RnTqBXmuWgtJpP2p7a5pUyrJLq/
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From boakes at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 08:24:21 2009
From: boakes at gmail.com (Bill Oakes)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 09:24:21 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
Message-ID: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>

Another one step forward and two steps back on the roadster project.

I was really excited about putting the last of the suspension back
together, putting on hubs, brakes and wheels and putting it back down
on the ground, but then....steering control box started binding up.
Then it completely failed, not turning at all. I took it apart and the
little roller bearings holding in the tab the goes into the worm
bearing (sorry for slaughtering the correct terms there) fell out in
my hand.

Instead of rebuilding everything, I got in touch with other local
roadster guy Matt, who had a box from a '69 that looked like it would
fit.

You guessed it. I wrestled it for quite a while and it looks like I'd
have to grind a small notch in the body/frame to get it in there.

Am I right? Has anyone attempted the same thing?

Or, how hard/expensive is it to rebuild the original box?

thanks
-bill

'68 2000 Solex

From davesmbox at aol.com  Tue Sep  8 08:25:11 2009
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 10:25:11 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <20090908100619.8TG78.4785772.root@mp12>
Message-ID: <8CBFEA74E647765-3818-2495B@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com>

Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the stand. For the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor Freight is Chinese CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool avoid them.

Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>
Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2009 10:06 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders




I need a grinder as well, so please post to the list, or at least CC me. Thanks!
Tim

---- "hallosb at juno.com" <hallosb at juno.com> wrote: 

=============
First, a thanks for all the responses on the engine bay color opinion poll.
I spent the weekend doing an inventory on the chrome for my Roadster. I used
some hand polish to check the condition and was surprised to see how well it
cleaned up. I would like to polish all my chrome and stainless. Any parts that
don't clean up or need repair, I'll send out for re-conditioning.
Since I don't think I would use a dedicated buffing machine very often, I
would like to buy a bench grinder and then a set of buffing wheels/polishes.
Any suggestions on a good grinder. I hear the cheap Harbor Freight grinders
vibrate badly. I would like something nice that will last.
I'm also not sure whether to buy a dual speed. I understand you need a lower
rpm for buffing plastic. There's not much plastic to buff so, maybe it's not
worth the expense.
TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrFguBPIgN08cQWsUYiOVFE6D
RnTqBXmuWgtJpP2p7a5pUyrJLq/
You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  8 08:32:20 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 09:32:20 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
References: <20090908.064836.26900.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <00cb01ca3091$2c990f20$6400a8c0@LAP120>

I have a cheap Harbor Freight grinder that I use along with a variable speed
control (that was also from HF, for about $8 at the time). They're not real
heavy and they can scoot around a little bit. I use bar clamps to anchor to
my bench and it's no problem at all. For safety's sake, you should always
solidly mount a grinder to something anyway.
Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <hallosb at juno.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 8:48 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders


> First, a thanks for all the responses on the engine bay color opinion
poll.
> I spent the weekend doing an inventory on the chrome for my Roadster. I
used
> some hand polish to check the condition and was surprised to see how well
it
> cleaned up. I would like to polish all my chrome and stainless. Any parts
that
> don't clean up or need repair, I'll send out for re-conditioning.
> Since I don't think I would use a dedicated buffing machine very often, I
> would like to buy a bench grinder and then a set of buffing
wheels/polishes.
> Any suggestions on a good grinder. I hear the cheap Harbor Freight
grinders
> vibrate badly. I would like something nice that will last.
> I'm also not sure whether to buy a dual speed. I understand you need a
lower
> rpm for buffing plastic. There's not much plastic to buff so, maybe it's
not
> worth the expense.
> TIA,
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600
> ____________________________________________________________

From slowboy at cox.net  Tue Sep  8 08:39:09 2009
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 07:39:09 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
In-Reply-To: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D28063137A0F4B14B156AB784FD845EF@M7170N>

I used this write up when I did mine. The only difference is I didn't bend
the frame out of the way. I cut and welded.

http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.SteeringBoxSwap


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Oakes
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 7:24 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box

Another one step forward and two steps back on the roadster project.

I was really excited about putting the last of the suspension back
together, putting on hubs, brakes and wheels and putting it back down
on the ground, but then....steering control box started binding up.
Then it completely failed, not turning at all. I took it apart and the
little roller bearings holding in the tab the goes into the worm
bearing (sorry for slaughtering the correct terms there) fell out in
my hand.

Instead of rebuilding everything, I got in touch with other local
roadster guy Matt, who had a box from a '69 that looked like it would
fit.

You guessed it. I wrestled it for quite a while and it looks like I'd
have to grind a small notch in the body/frame to get it in there.

Am I right? Has anyone attempted the same thing?

Or, how hard/expensive is it to rebuild the original box?

thanks
-bill

'68 2000 Solex
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.83/2352 - Release Date: 09/07/09
18:03:00

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  8 08:43:35 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 09:43:35 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
References: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010c01ca3092$bf315440$6400a8c0@LAP120>

If it's the later style RCB box, you don't have to notch the frame, just
snug up a 10" or 12" crescent wrench on the flange and bend it back. It's
super easy and will hardly be noticed. I'd also recommend buying a Pitman
arm puller, a cheap $15 one from a chain autoparts store will do the trick.
Makes R&R of the steering box SOoooo much easier!

Some of the stores also have a "tool loan" program that you can use for
free. That's what I did, and when I found out how great it worked, I went
out and bought the cheap tool. I used it on another spare box and it worked
perfectly.

Here's a write-up with pics on the 311s.org site:

http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.SteeringBoxSwap

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Oakes" <boakes at gmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box


> Another one step forward and two steps back on the roadster project.
>
> I was really excited about putting the last of the suspension back
> together, putting on hubs, brakes and wheels and putting it back down
> on the ground, but then....steering control box started binding up.
> Then it completely failed, not turning at all. I took it apart and the
> little roller bearings holding in the tab the goes into the worm
> bearing (sorry for slaughtering the correct terms there) fell out in
> my hand.
>
> Instead of rebuilding everything, I got in touch with other local
> roadster guy Matt, who had a box from a '69 that looked like it would
> fit.
>
> You guessed it. I wrestled it for quite a while and it looks like I'd
> have to grind a small notch in the body/frame to get it in there.
>
> Am I right? Has anyone attempted the same thing?
>
> Or, how hard/expensive is it to rebuild the original box?
>
> thanks
> -bill
>
> '68 2000 Solex
> ________________________________________

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  8 08:49:30 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 09:49:30 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
References: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <014801ca3093$92a568c0$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Here's a pic of my late box installed.

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Oakes" <boakes at gmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box


> Another one step forward and two steps back on the roadster project.
>
> I was really excited about putting the last of the suspension back
> together, putting on hubs, brakes and wheels and putting it back down
> on the ground, but then....steering control box started binding up.
> Then it completely failed, not turning at all. I took it apart and the
> little roller bearings holding in the tab the goes into the worm
> bearing (sorry for slaughtering the correct terms there) fell out in
> my hand.
>
> Instead of rebuilding everything, I got in touch with other local
> roadster guy Matt, who had a box from a '69 that looked like it would
> fit.
>
> You guessed it. I wrestled it for quite a while and it looks like I'd
> have to grind a small notch in the body/frame to get it in there.
>
> Am I right? Has anyone attempted the same thing?
>
> Or, how hard/expensive is it to rebuild the original box?
>
> thanks
> -bill
>
> '68 2000 Solex

Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.83/2353 - Release Date: 09/08/09
06:48:00

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_1137.JPG]

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 09:05:29 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 08:05:29 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <00cb01ca3091$2c990f20$6400a8c0@LAP120>
References: <20090908.064836.26900.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
	<00cb01ca3091$2c990f20$6400a8c0@LAP120>
Message-ID: <000901ca3095$ce317ad0$6a947070$@net>

Good point about anchoring the grinder. I don't currently have room for a
dedicated grinder stand and I got tired of chasing the grinder all over the
workbench, but I didn't want to bolt it in place and take up all that room
on the bench. My cheapo solution was to drill two holes in the workbench and
then drop a couple of bolts through the grinder into those holes and use
them like dowel pins. It's not 100% solid but it seems to work well enough.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MH
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 7:32 AM
To: hallosb at juno.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders

I have a cheap Harbor Freight grinder that I use along with a variable speed
control (that was also from HF, for about $8 at the time). They're not real
heavy and they can scoot around a little bit. I use bar clamps to anchor to
my bench and it's no problem at all. For safety's sake, you should always
solidly mount a grinder to something anyway.
Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed

From jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Sep  8 09:21:38 2009
From: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com (Joe Russo)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 11:21:38 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <014801ca3093$92a568c0$6400a8c0@LAP120>
Message-ID: <001001ca3098$1001b4f0$0302a8c0@D4RK97B1JR>

I put a NOS fuel pump on my U20.  After about 6 months, fuel started coming
out
of the weep holes on lower part of the pump body.  I suspect these holes are
there to exhaust the air from the diaphragm. SO I pulled the pump and the
diaphragm was decomposing (old rubber) but I could see no holes .  I replaced
the pump with a spare I had taken from a running engine.  It too has fuel
coming
from these holes...another bad diaphragm?

Could it be any thing else -  like a clog in a carb banjo bolt filter?  Car
starts easily and runs strong - as long as you don't mind the smell of gas
(not
to mention, going up in flames!)  Carbs are new beauties from Keith!

Thx
Joe

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Tue Sep  8 09:32:28 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 08:32:28 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <000901ca3095$ce317ad0$6a947070$@net>
References: <20090908.064836.26900.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
	<00cb01ca3091$2c990f20$6400a8c0@LAP120>
	<000901ca3095$ce317ad0$6a947070$@net>
Message-ID: <4AA6790C.4030403@socal.rr.com>

Thought I'd chime in on this one.

Bench grinders can be extremely dangerous.  You've got a wheel spinning 
at 5,000 rpm or more.  Trying to grind something on a grinder that isn't 
anchored down is asking for trouble.  I've known people who've seriously 
messed themselves up, nearly ripped off fingers, ripped apart flesh, 
etc, because they decided to use a grinder that wasn't anchored. 

It's a bad idea.

All it takes is for you to put too much pressure, or for something to 
catch, and that grinder can flip over and go flying.  Now you've got an 
object with a spinning wheel tearing around your garage, and you're 
right next to it. 

If you don't want to loose workbench space, then make some holes and use 
bolts and wingnuts so you can remove it quickly and easily.  But PLEASE 
don't use a grinder that isn't bolted down.

( I know, now people are going to say they've done it that way for years 
and they've never had a problem.  To that I say, you've been lucky.  
People drive without seatbelts and survive too, people ride bikes 
without helmets and survive.  Just because you've used a grinder that 
wasn't bolted down and haven't lost a finger doesn't mean you're not 
taking an unnecessary chance every time you do it....)

Better to be safe than sorry...

Eddie 

Gordon Glasgow wrote:
> Good point about anchoring the grinder. I don't currently have room for a
> dedicated grinder stand and I got tired of chasing the grinder all over the
> workbench, but I didn't want to bolt it in place and take up all that room
> on the bench. My cheapo solution was to drill two holes in the workbench and
> then drop a couple of bolts through the grinder into those holes and use
> them like dowel pins. It's not 100% solid but it seems to work well enough.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MH
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 7:32 AM
> To: hallosb at juno.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
>
> I have a cheap Harbor Freight grinder that I use along with a variable speed
> control (that was also from HF, for about $8 at the time). They're not real
> heavy and they can scoot around a little bit. I use bar clamps to anchor to
> my bench and it's no problem at all. For safety's sake, you should always
> solidly mount a grinder to something anyway.
> Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From alagams at juno.com  Tue Sep  8 09:42:53 2009
From: alagams at juno.com (alagams at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 15:42:53 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question
Message-ID: <20090908.114253.29443.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com>

Sounds like the diapragms are bad. I would get a new diaphragm for the NOS
fuel pump.
____________________________________________________________
Put your loved ones in good hands with quality senior assisted living. Click
now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTJkoMsC4aW4uuifcNCVHqesCE0R
uh6KzC6w4tgUUjZj6oEzwutC0o/

From gcuthber at telus.net  Tue Sep  8 09:53:36 2009
From: gcuthber at telus.net (Garth Cuthbert)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 08:53:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <001001ca3098$1001b4f0$0302a8c0@D4RK97B1JR>
References: <014801ca3093$92a568c0$6400a8c0@LAP120>
	<001001ca3098$1001b4f0$0302a8c0@D4RK97B1JR>
Message-ID: <006001ca309c$8746dc80$95d49580$@net>

Seems the fuel pump diaphragm is failing due to fatigue by travelling
further than design. You may want to check the thickness of the spacer
between your block and fuel pump. When I rebuilt my U20 the original spacer
was 0.187". I installed a spacer included in the Nissan gasket and seal kit
I got for the rebuild. It was almost twice the thickness.

It might be something else.

G

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Russo
Sent: September-08-09 8:22 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question

I put a NOS fuel pump on my U20.  After about 6 months, fuel started coming
out
of the weep holes on lower part of the pump body.  I suspect these holes are
there to exhaust the air from the diaphragm. SO I pulled the pump and the
diaphragm was decomposing (old rubber) but I could see no holes .  I
replaced
the pump with a spare I had taken from a running engine.  It too has fuel
coming
from these holes...another bad diaphragm?

Could it be any thing else -  like a clog in a carb banjo bolt filter?  Car
starts easily and runs strong - as long as you don't mind the smell of gas
(not
to mention, going up in flames!)  Carbs are new beauties from Keith!

Thx
Joe
You are subscribed as gcuthber at telus.net

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http://www.team.net/archive

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From cookefam314 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 10:16:10 2009
From: cookefam314 at gmail.com (Dave Cooke)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 11:16:10 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
Message-ID: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>

Found this on the 311s Tech Wiki, but it doesn't show which engine these are
for. I would assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000. Can
someone please clarify.

*311 Engine Oil Filter Section*

Ever wonder what oil filters fit the roadsters? Well, here is a listing
compiled by one of the list members. Sorry, I cannot remember who it was. If
anyone has others-please let us know.

   - Mobil 1 filter #M1-205--NEW
   - Hastings LF 387
   - AC - PF34
   - Puralator - FCO-42 or PER42 or L30119
   - Motorcraft - FL-13 or FL-181
   - Lee - LF-42HP
   - Deutsch - D601 (available at Autozone)
   - Nissan - old #15208-13210, new #15208-H8920
   - Nissan - old #15208-65002, new #15208-43G00
   - Toyota - 15601-33021
   - Bosch - 72 or 133
   - Napa - 1512(G Hare-didnt work on my particular 69 2000. Plenty of
   length, problem looks to be the threaded portion too far recessed from the
   sealing surface.)
   - Pennzoil PZ 8
   - Wix 51515
   - Wix 51512-5 3/4" high for use with oil tube
   - AC PF34
   - Crossland 2035
   - Bosch 72137
   - Beck-Arnely 8889
   - Purolator L 30042
   - K&N PN HP2008 filter will work correctly on the Roadsters with the
   drainback tube removed.

*Last updated 02/04/08*

--
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Tue Sep  8 10:36:20 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 12:36:20 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <001001ca3098$1001b4f0$0302a8c0@D4RK97B1JR>
Message-ID: <8CBFEB9A16B2290-3308-2672F@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com>

 I was told one of the most important reasons for fixing a pump like that is because gas if leaking out the weep hole can also be getting into the crankcase and gas in the oil is BAD for the engine parts. So Nissan sells a rebuild kit with diaphram a rubber seal but only the early pumps are easily rebuildable. See Rallye site for more info.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Russo <jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2009 8:21 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question










I put a NOS fuel pump on my U20.  After about 6 months, fuel started coming
out
of the weep holes on lower part of the pump body.  I suspect these holes are
there to exhaust the air from the diaphragm. SO I pulled the pump and the
diaphragm was decomposing (old rubber) but I could see no holes .  I replaced
the pump with a spare I had taken from a running engine.  It too has fuel
coming
from these holes...another bad diaphragm?

Could it be any thing else -  like a clog in a carb banjo bolt filter?  Car
starts easily and runs strong - as long as you don't mind the smell of gas
(not
to mention, going up in flames!)  Carbs are new beauties from Keith!

Thx
Joe
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

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http://www.team.net/archive

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From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep  8 10:46:37 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 9:46:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] NOS fuel pumps--diff question
Message-ID: <20090908124637.T9IJ9.4798094.root@mp12>

How many of you all have recenlty purchased AND installed an NOS fuel pump, only to find a bad diaphram? 

I recently purchased an NOS fuel pump in order to have a known good back up and now I wonder if the rubber bits are going to be bad after all these years...

Tim

From jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Sep  8 11:28:49 2009
From: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com (Joe Russo)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 13:28:49 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <006001ca309c$8746dc80$95d49580$@net>
Message-ID: <001901ca30a9$d48ee020$0302a8c0@D4RK97B1JR>

Thanks Garth and Gary,

Fuel pump #3 (from a spare engine) seems to have done the trick.  I checked
the
spacer and it is correct (compared to 2 others on U20 engines). I bought a
couple of these spacers new from Nissan a few years back.

I will pick up a repair kit and rebuild the NOS unit.  The diaphragm is petty
dried out - lots of chalky black rubber on it - down-right grungy, It's not
very
rubbery at all. I read somewhere, probably this list, the original rubber
can't
handle some of the modern fuel additives - I would have thought it would have
lasted longer than 6 months...

This car also happens to have an electric fuel pump that is mounted but not
connected.  I works fine except I hate the clicking noise it makes.  I keep
it
there "just in case".

Getting her ready for Watkins Glen this weekend!

Thx
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Cuthbert [mailto:gcuthber at telus.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 11:54 AM
To: 'Joe Russo'; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question


Seems the fuel pump diaphragm is failing due to fatigue by travelling further
than design. You may want to check the thickness of the spacer between your
block and fuel pump. When I rebuilt my U20 the original spacer was 0.187". I
installed a spacer included in the Nissan gasket and seal kit I got for the
rebuild. It was almost twice the thickness.

It might be something else.

G

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Russo
Sent: September-08-09 8:22 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question

I put a NOS fuel pump on my U20.  After about 6 months, fuel started coming
out
of the weep holes on lower part of the pump body.  I suspect these holes are
there to exhaust the air from the diaphragm. SO I pulled the pump and the
diaphragm was decomposing (old rubber) but I could see no holes .  I replaced
the pump with a spare I had taken from a running engine.  It too has fuel
coming
from these holes...another bad diaphragm?

Could it be any thing else -  like a clog in a carb banjo bolt filter?  Car
starts easily and runs strong - as long as you don't mind the smell of gas
(not
to mention, going up in flames!)  Carbs are new beauties from Keith!

Thx
Joe
You are subscribed as gcuthber at telus.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Tue Sep  8 11:36:26 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 10:36:26 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <D28063137A0F4B14B156AB784FD845EF@M7170N>
References: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
	<D28063137A0F4B14B156AB784FD845EF@M7170N>
Message-ID: <4AA6961A.4020200@socal.rr.com>

Due to all this talk I see here, I thought i'd throw this out there.

I've seen fuel pumps for these cars readily available as an aftermarket 
item, and they're very inexpensive...

I think my local Pep boys even sold them....

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Sep  8 11:46:17 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 10:46:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
In-Reply-To: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3ad057d60909080724m7b1e6c7bqe695f5179b17bb20@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <264888.71269.qm@web180202.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Bill,

Sounds like you have an early box (Type"A").  The bearings you mention
are not real expensive, but the worm gear is very expensive, if it needs to be
replaced.  Those bearings, in at least one steering box configuration, are
intended to be loose, which is a good reason to not let the roller peg slip
out of the roller when taking the box apart.

I was not able to remove the
early box from my '67-1/2 with the Pittman arm in place.  I turned the thing
every which way, but could not find an angle which would let me get it out. 
(I have been told it is possible, but I couldn't do it.)  So, I bolted the box
back up, and used a link separator, a.k.a. "pickle fork", along with a 48
ounce hammer to get the arm off the steering box shaft.  I thought it wouldn't
come off at all, so, accompanied with language appropriate to the
circumstances, I let the fork have it with a real good blow.  Off it came.  I
have a couple of gear pullers, but could not get a good purchase on the arm
with the box in the car.  Maybe a Pittman arm puller has arms better suited to
Pittman arms.  I could have gone out and bought another puller, but decided to
try the link separator instead.

Couldn't get the box out of the car with the
amr in place, and couldn't get the arm off with any of my pullers.  Sort of a
Catch 22 situation.

I replaced the original box with a used unit which has
very smooth travel throughout the range of motion, and no on-center clearance
issues.  Been happy with the substitution.

I understand that a couple of
minor frame modifications are needed to fit a late recirculating ball Type "B"
box to an early car.

Gary


________________________________
From: Bill Oakes
<boakes at gmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday,
September 8, 2009 9:24:21 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
Another one step forward and two steps back on the roadster project.

I was
really excited about putting the last of the suspension back
together, putting
on hubs, brakes and wheels and putting it back down
on the ground, but
then....steering control box started binding up.
Then it completely failed,
not turning at all. I took it apart and the
little roller bearings holding in
the tab the goes into the worm
bearing (sorry for slaughtering the correct
terms there) fell out in
my hand.

Instead of rebuilding everything, I got in
touch with other local
roadster guy Matt, who had a box from a '69 that looked
like it would
fit.

You guessed it. I wrestled it for quite a while and it
looks like I'd
have to grind a small notch in the body/frame to get it in
there.

Am I right? Has anyone attempted the same thing?

Or, how
hard/expensive is it to rebuild the original box?

thanks
-bill

'68 2000
Solex
________________________________________
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From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  8 11:52:27 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 12:52:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W11B414A0CF57F322FDE9059BEA0@phx.gbl>

Dave,



The Napa 1512 is for the 1600.  Tim runs this on his and he is really happy
with it.  I would run one on mine if I could get the old one off.  Wasted a
good chunk on my day on that yesterday.  I think that is the only oil seal on
the car that does work.



Dan
-Dairyland Datsuns


> Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 11:16:10 -0500
> From: cookefam314 at gmail.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
>
> Found this on the 311s Tech Wiki, but it doesn't show which engine these
are
> for. I would assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000. Can
> someone please clarify.
>
> *311 Engine Oil Filter Section*
>
> Ever wonder what oil filters fit the roadsters? Well, here is a listing
> compiled by one of the list members. Sorry, I cannot remember who it was.
If
> anyone has others-please let us know.
>
> - Mobil 1 filter #M1-205--NEW
> - Hastings LF 387
> - AC - PF34
> - Puralator - FCO-42 or PER42 or L30119
> - Motorcraft - FL-13 or FL-181
> - Lee - LF-42HP
> - Deutsch - D601 (available at Autozone)
> - Nissan - old #15208-13210, new #15208-H8920
> - Nissan - old #15208-65002, new #15208-43G00
> - Toyota - 15601-33021
> - Bosch - 72 or 133
> - Napa - 1512(G Hare-didnt work on my particular 69 2000. Plenty of
> length, problem looks to be the threaded portion too far recessed from the
> sealing surface.)
> - Pennzoil PZ 8
> - Wix 51515
> - Wix 51512-5 3/4" high for use with oil tube
> - AC PF34
> - Crossland 2035
> - Bosch 72137
> - Beck-Arnely 8889
> - Purolator L 30042
> - K&N PN HP2008 filter will work correctly on the Roadsters with the
> drainback tube removed.
>
> *Last updated 02/04/08*
>
> --
> Dave Cooke
> Midwest Roadsters
> ________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Sep  8 11:53:41 2009
From: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com (Joe Russo)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 13:53:41 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <8CBFEB9A16B2290-3308-2672F@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <002401ca30ad$4d567e70$0302a8c0@D4RK97B1JR>

Good point - time for an oil change!

-----Original Message-----
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net [mailto:ljordan704 at netscape.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 12:36 PM
To: jrusso07 at rochester.rr.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Fuel Pump Question


I was told one of the most important reasons for fixing a pump like that is
because gas if leaking out the weep hole can also be getting into the
crankcase
and gas in the oil is BAD for the engine parts. So Nissan sells a rebuild kit
with diaphram a rubber seal but only the early pumps are easily rebuildable.
See
Rallye site for more info.

Linda

From geegc at aol.com  Tue Sep  8 11:57:13 2009
From: geegc at aol.com (geegc at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 13:57:13 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Hood release cable
Message-ID: <8CBFEC4EE20E295-760-96@webmail-stg-d17.sysops.aol.com>

I need a new one for my 66, the existing cable is frayed and sticks.? anyone just replace the wire rather than the entire assembly?? Any step by step to show how to take the wire out?



Gary C

1966 1600

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep  8 12:02:33 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 11:02:33 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <BAY139-W11B414A0CF57F322FDE9059BEA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090908140233.DINNG.4803055.root@mp12>

Not sure if both exist, but the filter is the 1512 GOLD.

Tim


---- Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com> wrote:

=============
Dave,



The Napa 1512 is for the 1600.  Tim runs this on his and he is really happy
with it.  I would run one on mine if I could get the old one off.  Wasted a
good chunk on my day on that yesterday.  I think that is the only oil seal on
the car that does work.



Dan
-Dairyland Datsuns


> Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 11:16:10 -0500
> From: cookefam314 at gmail.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
>
> Found this on the 311s Tech Wiki, but it doesn't show which engine these
are
> for. I would assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000. Can
> someone please clarify.
>
> *311 Engine Oil Filter Section*
>
> Ever wonder what oil filters fit the roadsters? Well, here is a listing
> compiled by one of the list members. Sorry, I cannot remember who it was.
If
> anyone has others-please let us know.
>
> - Mobil 1 filter #M1-205--NEW
> - Hastings LF 387
> - AC - PF34
> - Puralator - FCO-42 or PER42 or L30119
> - Motorcraft - FL-13 or FL-181
> - Lee - LF-42HP
> - Deutsch - D601 (available at Autozone)
> - Nissan - old #15208-13210, new #15208-H8920
> - Nissan - old #15208-65002, new #15208-43G00
> - Toyota - 15601-33021
> - Bosch - 72 or 133
> - Napa - 1512(G Hare-didnt work on my particular 69 2000. Plenty of
> length, problem looks to be the threaded portion too far recessed from the
> sealing surface.)
> - Pennzoil PZ 8
> - Wix 51515
> - Wix 51512-5 3/4" high for use with oil tube
> - AC PF34
> - Crossland 2035
> - Bosch 72137
> - Beck-Arnely 8889
> - Purolator L 30042
> - K&N PN HP2008 filter will work correctly on the Roadsters with the
> drainback tube removed.
>
> *Last updated 02/04/08*
>
> --
> Dave Cooke
> Midwest Roadsters
> ________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery
You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Tue Sep  8 13:40:57 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 14:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AA6B349.4080407@mail.utexas.edu>

I've tried the Deutsch D-601 filters on my 1600. They are not to be 
considered reliable. The construction of the mounting plate only allowed 
the filter to spin on about 3/4 of a turn, not nearly enough for safety! 
I tried several, from different stores and they were all alike. This was 
over 5 years ago, but I still won't consider using one on my engine.

My favorite filter is the Wix 51512 filter.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Dave Cooke, On 9/8/2009 11:16 AM:
> Found this on the 311s Tech Wiki, but it doesn't show which engine these are
> for. I would assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000. Can
> someone please clarify.
>
> *311 Engine Oil Filter Section*
>
> Ever wonder what oil filters fit the roadsters? Well, here is a listing
> compiled by one of the list members. Sorry, I cannot remember who it was. If
> anyone has others-please let us know.
>
>    - Mobil 1 filter #M1-205--NEW
>    - Hastings LF 387
>    - AC - PF34
>    - Puralator - FCO-42 or PER42 or L30119
>    - Motorcraft - FL-13 or FL-181
>    - Lee - LF-42HP
>    - Deutsch - D601 (available at Autozone)
>    - Nissan - old #15208-13210, new #15208-H8920
>    - Nissan - old #15208-65002, new #15208-43G00
>    - Toyota - 15601-33021
>    - Bosch - 72 or 133
>    - Napa - 1512(G Hare-didnt work on my particular 69 2000. Plenty of
>    length, problem looks to be the threaded portion too far recessed from the
>    sealing surface.)
>    - Pennzoil PZ 8
>    - Wix 51515
>    - Wix 51512-5 3/4" high for use with oil tube
>    - AC PF34
>    - Crossland 2035
>    - Bosch 72137
>    - Beck-Arnely 8889
>    - Purolator L 30042
>    - K&N PN HP2008 filter will work correctly on the Roadsters with the
>    drainback tube removed.
>
> *Last updated 02/04/08*
>
> --
> Dave Cooke
> Midwest Roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Tue Sep  8 12:56:13 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 11:56:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909081154590.21313@netserv.csus.edu>

> I would assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000.

I don't think so. I use the same part number on both my R and U-20.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff sandhoff at csus.edu  Sacramento, CA

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Tue Sep  8 16:03:42 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 18:03:42 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadster ranch carbs, or how the cats ate my year
Message-ID: <d00.5fb01e19.37d82ebe@aol.com>

Hello all,
 
    There are several of you waiting for me to get  carbs done for you. Let 
me explain why I am being slower than usual.
 
    As I have mentioned before I am medically retired  due to Chronic 
Fatigue Syndrome (CFS). This is entirely different than CRS,  Can't Remember 
Stuff.
 
    A year ago this October while helping a friend with  some stray/feral 
cats, I found that the county here was considering an ordinance  to make 
managing these cats with a process called Trap, Neuter and Release  legal. This 
is something a number of folks have been doing for some time and it  was 
about time the county accepted the reality that it works and is being done  
already. 
 
    The ordinance created a volunteer position to  assist in getting things 
organized and under way. How hard could it be? Sort of  like in those 
movies where the leader asks for volunteers to step forward and  everybody but 
one steps back, that volunteer was me. I have no regrets but this  is taking 
up almost all of my time. Many of my project are on hold until I can  get 
this sorted out. Carbs are one of the few things that I am working on at all  
and like I said they are being slower than usual. 
 
    I am slowly getting other volunteers organized to  take on some of the 
tasks that I have been doing with the cats. Many of these  things have not 
been done here before so I am pretty much making it up as I go  along. 
 
    As I get things figured out and other folks trained  I hope to be able 
to get back to my regular life. Until that happens I ask for  your patience. 
 
Thanks,
 
keith williams
 
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_ (http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org) 

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Sep  8 18:11:45 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:11:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <220113.14973.qm@web180205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I believe the spin-on oil filters for the 1600 and 2000 are the same.

Others
which work:

Fram PH2825
STP S2870A

Make sure that, whatever filter you
select, there is sufficient clearance for the drain-back tube.  I have seen
filters which application charts say will ift which interfered with the tube. 
The interference was not enough to prevent the filter from seating, but would
affect oil delivery to the engine.

I don't think removing the drain-back tube
is a good idea.  As I understand it, the tube keeps oil in the block gallery,
and allows oil to the upper chain tensioner in the head more quickly on
start-up.

Gary




________________________________
From: Dave Cooke
<cookefam314 at gmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday,
September 8, 2009 11:16:10 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters

Found this on
the 311s Tech Wiki, but it doesn't show which engine these are
for. I would
assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000. Can
someone please
clarify.

*311 Engine Oil Filter Section*

Ever wonder what oil filters fit
the roadsters? Well, here is a listing
compiled by one of the list members.
Sorry, I cannot remember who it was. If
anyone has others-please let us know.
  - Mobil 1 filter #M1-205--NEW
  - Hastings LF 387
  - AC - PF34
  -
Puralator - FCO-42 or PER42 or L30119
  - Motorcraft - FL-13 or FL-181
  - Lee
- LF-42HP
  - Deutsch - D601 (available at Autozone)
  - Nissan - old
#15208-13210, new #15208-H8920
  - Nissan - old #15208-65002, new #15208-43G00
  - Toyota - 15601-33021
  - Bosch - 72 or 133
  - Napa - 1512(G Hare-didnt
work on my particular 69 2000. Plenty of
  length, problem looks to be the
threaded portion too far recessed from the
  sealing surface.)
  - Pennzoil PZ
8
  - Wix 51515
  - Wix 51512-5 3/4" high for use with oil tube
  - AC PF34
 
- Crossland 2035
  - Bosch 72137
  - Beck-Arnely 8889
  - Purolator L 30042
 
- K&N PN HP2008 filter will work correctly on the Roadsters with the
 
drainback tube removed.

*Last updated 02/04/08*

--
Dave Cooke
Midwest
Roadsters
________________________________________
Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Tue Sep  8 19:56:39 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 21:56:39 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <220113.14973.qm@web180205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
	<220113.14973.qm@web180205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFF07E801BD86-3704-2D90D@webmail-m011.sysops.aol.com>

 There have been references to the Fram filters being complete junk. There was a site that compared filters and Fram did not do well. Check out the Wix site for why they think their filter is good. I was convinced. They have one for use with or without the tube.
http://www.wixfilters.com/

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
To: Dave Cooke <cookefam314 at gmail.com>; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2009 5:11 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil filters










I believe the spin-on oil filters for the 1600 and 2000 are the same.

Others
which work:

Fram PH2825
STP S2870A

Make sure that, whatever filter you
select, there is sufficient clearance for the drain-back tube.  I have seen
filters which application charts say will ift which interfered with the tube. 
The interference was not enough to prevent the filter from seating, but would
affect oil delivery to the engine.

I don't think removing the drain-back tube
is a good idea.  As I understand it, the tube keeps oil in the block gallery,
and allows oil to the upper chain tensioner in the head more quickly on
start-up.

Gary




________________________________
From: Dave Cooke
<cookefam314 at gmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday,
September 8, 2009 11:16:10 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters

Found this on
the 311s Tech Wiki, but it doesn't show which engine these are
for. I would
assume the oil filter on a 1600 is different than a 2000. Can
someone please
clarify.

*311 Engine Oil Filter Section*

Ever wonder what oil filters fit
the roadsters? Well, here is a listing
compiled by one of the list members.
Sorry, I cannot remember who it was. If
anyone has others-please let us know.
  - Mobil 1 filter #M1-205--NEW
  - Hastings LF 387
  - AC - PF34
  -
Puralator - FCO-42 or PER42 or L30119
  - Motorcraft - FL-13 or FL-181
  - Lee
- LF-42HP
  - Deutsch - D601 (available at Autozone)
  - Nissan - old
#15208-13210, new #15208-H8920
  - Nissan - old #15208-65002, new #15208-43G00
  - Toyota - 15601-33021
  - Bosch - 72 or 133
  - Napa - 1512(G Hare-didnt
work on my particular 69 2000. Plenty of
  length, problem looks to be the
threaded portion too far recessed from the
  sealing surface.)
  - Pennzoil PZ
8
  - Wix 51515
  - Wix 51512-5 3/4" high for use with oil tube
  - AC PF34
 
- Crossland 2035
  - Bosch 72137
  - Beck-Arnely 8889
  - Purolator L 30042
 
- K&N PN HP2008 filter will work correctly on the Roadsters with the
 
drainback tube removed.

*Last updated 02/04/08*

--
Dave Cooke
Midwest
Roadsters
________________________________________
Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

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From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  8 23:56:31 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Modern car body design changes
Message-ID: <640131.47131.qm@web36305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey roadster fans,
Just a little trivia here.  I'm sure everyone has noticed that over the last 3 to 5 years that front end body designs have transformed from a wedge shape to a very blunt front shape, starting with European cars.  I read in one of the car magazines at least 5 years ago, that this concept of a blunt front end  started in Germany because of the need to reduce the severity of injury to pedestrians when they get hit by a car.  I think that may not be a totally legitimate reason for designing a car with a blunt front end body design when  it increases the cars' coefficient of drag  as opposed to a wedge shape.  It seems it would be detrimental to fuel mileage and performance at higher speeds.  Pedestrians need to be smarter in my opinion.  Now the Asian  and American car makers are adopting the same body design.  I have not checked out the coefficient of drag on the modern cars.  Car magazines once upon a time would publish the coefficient of drag but not
 anymore.   Maybe the engineers have figured out a way to make a front blunt just as aerodynamic as a wedge front end.  Anyone seen any coefficient of drag data on these blunt cars?  BTW, our roadsters have that blunt front end.  Is there any published info on coefficient of drag on Datsun roadsters?    
Gary  

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Wed Sep  9 06:21:01 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 08:21:01 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Modern car body design changes
Message-ID: <bdd.5930d084.37d8f7ad@aol.com>

With the pressure to get as good a gas mileage as possible I expect they  
figured out how to keep the drag numbers low. One thing I noticed is how many 
 more bugs the roadster collects compared to a modern car. I suspect this 
is due  to abrupt changes in air flow direction particularly in the 
windshield area. The  bugs being denser than air cannot keep up and end up against 
the windshield.  Modern cars with smoother flow carry the bugs around the car 
better. This  airflow improvement should produce less drag. 
 
keith
 
 
In a message dated 9/8/2009 10:59:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
gboone70 at yahoo.com writes:

Hey  roadster fans,
Just a little trivia here.  I'm sure everyone has  noticed that over the 
last 3 to 5 years that front end body designs have  transformed from a wedge 
shape to a very blunt front shape, starting with  European cars.  I read in 
one of the car magazines at least 5 years ago,  that this concept of a blunt 
front end  started in Germany because of the  need to reduce the severity of 
injury to pedestrians when they get hit by a  car.  I think that may not be 
a totally legitimate reason for designing a  car with a blunt front end 
body design when  it increases the cars'  coefficient of drag  as opposed to a 
wedge shape.  It seems it would  be detrimental to fuel mileage and 
performance at higher speeds.   Pedestrians need to be smarter in my opinion.  Now 
the Asian  and  American car makers are adopting the same body design.  I 
have not  checked out the coefficient of drag on the modern cars.  Car 
magazines  once upon a time would publish the coefficient of drag but  not
anymore.   Maybe the engineers have figured out a way to make  a front 
blunt just as aerodynamic as a wedge front end.  Anyone seen any  coefficient of 
drag data on these blunt cars?  BTW, our roadsters have  that blunt front 
end.  Is there any published info on coefficient of drag  on Datsun 
roadsters?    
Gary   
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov  Wed Sep  9 06:23:31 2009
From: phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov (Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ED10))
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 07:23:31 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Modern car body design changes
In-Reply-To: <640131.47131.qm@web36305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <640131.47131.qm@web36305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C7F293DA5D3422438B898BAC711427A82A9CAE9BD7@NDMSSCC06.ndc.nasa.gov>

Hey Gary -

The Bosch Automotive Handbook lists the Cw of open convertibles as .5 to .7
and the 'ponton' or sedan body as .4 to .55 (top up..).  The wedge shape body
is .3 to .4.

I think what drives the design of a car are the marketing folks and not
engineers.  The automotive industry is a cost driven industry so marketing
roles at the end of the day.  Personally I like a car with a 'grill'.

Phil Hall
NASA/MSFC/ED10
Systems Engineering
work :   256-544-2525
cell:    256-975-6385


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Boone
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 12:57 AM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Modern car body design changes

Hey roadster fans,
Just a little trivia here.  I'm sure everyone has noticed that over the last 3
to 5 years that front end body designs have transformed from a wedge shape to
a very blunt front shape, starting with European cars.  I read in one of the
car magazines at least 5 years ago, that this concept of a blunt front end
started in Germany because of the need to reduce the severity of injury to
pedestrians when they get hit by a car.  I think that may not be a totally
legitimate reason for designing a car with a blunt front end body design when
it increases the cars' coefficient of drag  as opposed to a wedge shape.  It
seems it would be detrimental to fuel mileage and performance at higher
speeds.  Pedestrians need to be smarter in my opinion.  Now the Asian  and
American car makers are adopting the same body design.  I have not checked out
the coefficient of drag on the modern cars.  Car magazines once upon a time
would publish the coefficient of drag but not
 anymore.   Maybe the engineers have figured out a way to make a front blunt
just as aerodynamic as a wedge front end.  Anyone seen any coefficient of drag
data on these blunt cars?  BTW, our roadsters have that blunt front end.  Is
there any published info on coefficient of drag on Datsun roadsters?
Gary
You are subscribed as phillip.b.hall at msfc.nasa.gov

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  9 07:03:16 2009
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 06:03:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <8CBFF07E801BD86-3704-2D90D@webmail-m011.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <77403.44842.qm@web63704.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Wix makes NAPA filters.  The NAPA Gold is the same as the best Wix according to my knowledgeable source.

Mike Harper, CAI, AARE 
Harper Auction & Realty 
843-729-4996 
"Experience Sells" 

www.AuctionMyRealEstate.NET


--- On Tue, 9/8/09, ljordan704 at netscape.net <ljordan704 at netscape.net> wrote:

> From: ljordan704 at netscape.net <ljordan704 at netscape.net>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil filters
> To: aultgc at att.net, cookefam314 at gmail.com, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 9:56 PM
>  There have been references to the
> Fram filters being complete junk. There was a site that
> compared filters and Fram did not do well. Check out the Wix
> site for why they think their filter is good. I was
> convinced. They have one for use with or without the tube.
> http://www.wixfilters.com/
> 
> Linda

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Wed Sep  9 09:02:19 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 11:02:19 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil filters
In-Reply-To: <221FBDA703D046479328B5D524670E5D@gaxp1>
References: <83a7d2520909080916j1d47a1feu8abe0c8074d7ae49@mail.gmail.com>
	<220113.14973.qm@web180205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<8CBFF07E801BD86-3704-2D90D@webmail-m011.sysops.aol.com>
	<221FBDA703D046479328B5D524670E5D@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <8CBFF75A96AEAA8-3F7C-1A247@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

 Here's a couple of links on 311 to a discussion on the Fram filters as well as a link to an oil filter study:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3962&start=0&hilit=oil+filters


 http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7724&start=0&hilit=oil+filters

Linda


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
To: cookefam314 at gmail.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; ljordan704 at netscape.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2009 7:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil filters
















I hae used Fram filters on my car for over 25 years 
with no problems.? Stick with what you like, but, if I can find Fram 
PH-2825 (not too common any more), I'll buy them.


?


Gary



  
----- Original Message ----- 

  
From: 
  ljordan704 at netscape.net 

  
To: aultgc at att.net ; cookefam314 at gmail.com ; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
  

  
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 8:56 
  PM

  
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil 
filters

  



  
There have been references to 
  the Fram filters being complete junk. There was a site that compared filters 
  and Fram did not do well. Check out the Wix site for why they think their 
  filter is good. I was convinced. They have one for use with or without the 
  tube.
http://www.wixfilters.com/

Linda

From hallosb at juno.com  Wed Sep  9 10:15:58 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 16:15:58 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
Message-ID: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>

So, you don't think I can get by with buying the buffing wheels/polishes from
Eastwood and mounting them to a bench grinder. I think I would use a grinder a
lot more than the buffer and then I would have less stuff to store.

Hopefully, Sears will have something made in the US.  More and more of their
power tools, hydraulic jacks, etc. are made in China. The only exception is
their hand tools. Still made in USA.

Dan McHatton
'66 1600


-----------------------------------------------
Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the stand.
For
the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor Freight is
Chinese
CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool avoid
them.

Dave



____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrGKxo1lBooAqBNUsAWwXCL39
M1LihU02GqBjDEHkajjEKHRdSI/

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Wed Sep  9 10:36:11 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 12:36:11 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFF82C652E141-B6C-24B32@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>

 If you aren't going to be doing that much buffing I'd just get the grinder and the polishing wheels. Parts on my car, like the door guards, got polished that way,? Or I'd get a grinder and a cheap Harbor Freight buffer, because, again, it doesn't need to last because you won't be using it that much anyway. 



 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 9:15 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders










So, you don't think I can get by with buying the buffing wheels/polishes from
Eastwood and mounting them to a bench grinder. I think I would use a grinder a
lot more than the buffer and then I would have less stuff to store.

Hopefully, Sears will have something made in the US.  More and more of their
power tools, hydraulic jacks, etc. are made in China. The only exception is
their hand tools. Still made in USA.

Dan McHatton
'66 1600


-----------------------------------------------
Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the stand.
For
the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor Freight is
Chinese
CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool avoid
them.

Dave



____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrGKxo1lBooAqBNUsAWwXCL39
M1LihU02GqBjDEHkajjEKHRdSI/
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Wed Sep  9 10:47:29 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 09:47:29 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <8CBFF82C652E141-B6C-24B32@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
	<8CBFF82C652E141-B6C-24B32@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AA7DC21.8070200@socal.rr.com>

My own personal opinion?  Don't buy cheap tools.  EVER.  Regardless of 
the "amount of use" a tool will get.  Buy good tools, and you'll never 
buy another one of that particular tool for the rest of your life...

Cheap tools that have things like hydraulics or spinning parts can be 
very dangerous.  If that thing blows apart while you're near it.... 
well, I'm sure you can guess...

Eddie





ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote:
>  If you aren't going to be doing that much buffing I'd just get the grinder and the polishing wheels. Parts on my car, like the door guards, got polished that way,? Or I'd get a grinder and a cheap Harbor Freight buffer, because, again, it doesn't need to last because you won't be using it that much anyway. 
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>  
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 9:15 am
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> So, you don't think I can get by with buying the buffing wheels/polishes from
> Eastwood and mounting them to a bench grinder. I think I would use a grinder a
> lot more than the buffer and then I would have less stuff to store.
>
> Hopefully, Sears will have something made in the US.  More and more of their
> power tools, hydraulic jacks, etc. are made in China. The only exception is
> their hand tools. Still made in USA.
>
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------
> Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the stand.
> For
> the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor Freight is
> Chinese
> CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool avoid
> them.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrGKxo1lBooAqBNUsAWwXCL39
> M1LihU02GqBjDEHkajjEKHRdSI/
> You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From davesmbox at aol.com  Wed Sep  9 10:59:36 2009
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 12:59:36 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <4AA7DC21.8070200@socal.rr.com>
References: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com><8CBFF82C652E141-B6C-24B32@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>
	<4AA7DC21.8070200@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFF860BFA4734-164-1CC85@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>

Well said. I agree


-----Original Message-----
From: Eddie <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
To: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 12:47 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders


My own personal opinion? Don't buy cheap tools. EVER. Regardless of the "amount of use" a tool will get. Buy good tools, and you'll never buy another one of that particular tool for the rest of your life...?
?
Cheap tools that have things like hydraulics or spinning parts can be very dangerous. If that thing blows apart while you're near it.... well, I'm sure you can guess...?
?
Eddie?
?
?
?
ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote:?
> If you aren't going to be doing that much buffing I'd just get the grinder and the polishing wheels. Parts on my car, like the door guards, got polished that way,? Or I'd get a grinder and a cheap Harbor Freight buffer, because, again, it doesn't need to last because you won't be using it that much anyway. >?
>?
>?
> >?
>?
> >?
> -----Original Message-----?
> From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>?
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net?
> Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 9:15 am?
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
> So, you don't think I can get by with buying the buffing wheels/polishes from?
> Eastwood and mounting them to a bench grinder. I think I would use a grinder a?
> lot more than the buffer and then I would have less stuff to store.?
>?
> Hopefully, Sears will have something made in the US. More and more of their?
> power tools, hydraulic jacks, etc. are made in China. The only exception is?
> their hand tools. Still made in USA.?
>?
> Dan McHatton?
> '66 1600?
>?
>?
> -----------------------------------------------?
> Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the stand.?
> For?
> the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor Freight is?
> Chinese?
> CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool avoid?
> them.?
>?
> Dave?
>?
>?
>?
> ____________________________________________________________?
> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!?
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrGKxo1lBooAqBNUsAWwXCL39?
> M1LihU02GqBjDEHkajjEKHRdSI/?
> You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net?
>?
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list?
>?
> http://www.team.net/archive?
>?
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters?
> ________________________________________?
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
>?
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com?
>?
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list?
>?
> http://www.team.net/archive?
>?
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters?
________________________________________?
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
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From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  9 11:11:05 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 12:11:05 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
References: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com><8CBFF82C652E141-B6C-24B32@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com><4AA7DC21.8070200@socal.rr.com>
	<8CBFF860BFA4734-164-1CC85@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <00a301ca3170$849cd7d0$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Snap-on tools are good and they're not cheap.
Mike Hudson

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <davesmbox at aol.com>
To: <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders


> Well said. I agree
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eddie <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
> To: ljordan704 at netscape.net
> Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 12:47 pm
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
>
>
> My own personal opinion? Don't buy cheap tools. EVER. Regardless of the
"amount of use" a tool will get. Buy good tools, and you'll never buy
another one of that particular tool for the rest of your life...?
> ?
> Cheap tools that have things like hydraulics or spinning parts can be very
dangerous. If that thing blows apart while you're near it.... well, I'm sure
you can guess...?
> ?
> Eddie?
> ?
> ?
> ?
> ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote:?
> > If you aren't going to be doing that much buffing I'd just get the
grinder and the polishing wheels. Parts on my car, like the door guards, got
polished that way,? Or I'd get a grinder and a cheap Harbor Freight buffer,
because, again, it doesn't need to last because you won't be using it that
much anyway. >?
> >?
> >?
> > >?
> >?
> > >?
> > -----Original Message-----?
> > From: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>?
> > To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net?
> > Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 9:15 am?
> > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> >?
> > So, you don't think I can get by with buying the buffing wheels/polishes
from?
> > Eastwood and mounting them to a bench grinder. I think I would use a
grinder a?
> > lot more than the buffer and then I would have less stuff to store.?
> >?
> > Hopefully, Sears will have something made in the US. More and more of
their?
> > power tools, hydraulic jacks, etc. are made in China. The only exception
is?
> > their hand tools. Still made in USA.?
> >?
> > Dan McHatton?
> > '66 1600?
> >?
> >?
> > -----------------------------------------------?
> > Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the
stand.?
> > For?
> > the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor
Freight is?
> > Chinese?
> > CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool
avoid?
> > them.?
> >?
> > Dave?
> >?
> >?
> >?

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Wed Sep  9 12:03:02 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 18:03:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <482612394.7578951252519382680.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Since we're talking grinders....any thoughts on 6-inch vs 8-inch? 

Pete 

From davesmbox at aol.com  Wed Sep  9 13:21:55 2009
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 15:21:55 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <482612394.7578951252519382680.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBFF99ED5A0768-164-1F180@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>

spend the money on a 8 inch


-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Peters <ppeters914 at comcast.net>
To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 2:03 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders



Since we're talking grinders....any thoughts on 6-inch vs 8-inch? 

Pete 
You are subscribed as davesmbox at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep  9 15:39:36 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 17:39:36 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Modern car body design changes
In-Reply-To: <bdd.5930d084.37d8f7ad@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7FA8D0446850450A9A45B036A9EC62A0@delled48909442>

So do these newer blunt front cars also help carry pedestrians up and over
the windshield? :) My Dodge truck, blunt as a brick, tends to harvest huge
amounts of insects while driving, but I would guess it has a less than
optimal airflow around the body 

Dave Brisco
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith0alan at aol.com [mailto:Keith0alan at aol.com] 
 
With the pressure to get as good a gas mileage as possible I expect they  
figured out how to keep the drag numbers low. One thing I noticed is how
many 
 more bugs the roadster collects compared to a modern car. I suspect this 
is due  to abrupt changes in air flow direction particularly in the 
windshield area. The  bugs being denser than air cannot keep up and end up
against 
the windshield.  Modern cars with smoother flow carry the bugs around the
car 
better. This  airflow improvement should produce less drag. 
 
keith

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep  9 15:42:13 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 17:42:13 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
In-Reply-To: <20090909.091558.13011.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <79E61326B020486293236A12EB915D42@delled48909442>

The buffers have a longer shaft to get the wheels out where you can work
with them.  Grinders tend to enclose the wheels.  There are kits to mount a
buffing wheel to a plain electric motor, might offer a budget solution.

Dave Brisco
ECR

-----Original Message-----
From: hallosb at juno.com [mailto:hallosb at juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 12:16 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders

So, you don't think I can get by with buying the buffing wheels/polishes
from
Eastwood and mounting them to a bench grinder. I think I would use a grinder
a
lot more than the buffer and then I would have less stuff to store.

Hopefully, Sears will have something made in the US.  More and more of their
power tools, hydraulic jacks, etc. are made in China. The only exception is
their hand tools. Still made in USA.

Dan McHatton
'66 1600


-----------------------------------------------
Get Two. For the grinder just go to sears. A 6 or 8" is fine get the stand.
For
the buffer spend the bucks and get a good kit from Eastwood. Harbor Freight
is
Chinese
CRAP. If you don't use it much the stuff is OK but for a good shop tool
avoid
them.

Dave



____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrGKxo1lBooAqBNUsAWwXCL3
9
M1LihU02GqBjDEHkajjEKHRdSI/

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Wed Sep  9 15:47:49 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 14:47:49 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Semi-OT: Bench grinders
References: <79E61326B020486293236A12EB915D42@delled48909442>
Message-ID: <5D384A69B8A842418A694373CEA8CB05@HPW>

Buffer motors can also have higher Torque settings than grinders.

FWIW
E

From mkiisupra at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 10 08:35:52 2009
From: mkiisupra at hotmail.com (Eric Gillis)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 14:35:52 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil drain plug washer size?
In-Reply-To: <5D384A69B8A842418A694373CEA8CB05@HPW>
References: <79E61326B020486293236A12EB915D42@delled48909442>
	<5D384A69B8A842418A694373CEA8CB05@HPW>
Message-ID: <COL116-W57AA8B4C760D25BFB7AE82ACE80@phx.gbl>

Riddle me this Batmen and Robins-



What size is the copper crush washer for a 69 1600 Roadster's oil drain pan
plug?  I went to many a kragens, pep boys, etc but wasn't convinced about
size/availability.  Don't have original with me as it is still holding oil in
pan (save a couple of drops here and there).



Not wanting to chase a simple oil leak post oil change like I did with my
Supra, I went to get factory parts.  When I went to Nissan, I got what I think
is the 'smaller' of two options for the Roadster, seemed about 5/8-3/4 inch or
so in diameter.  I base this 'two sizes' opinion on the information gleaned
from 311s.org and vendors pages to determine sizing.



Just trying to get the parts together for a 'simple' oil change and would like
to prevent any 'do-overs'



Minden, NV trip is next weekend!!!!



Thanks in advance,



Eric G

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
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WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

From smlibanker at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 19:23:57 2009
From: smlibanker at comcast.net (The Bankers)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 21:23:57 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Heater Valve
Message-ID: <6ECC0DE5AAC54BA388EFAA27A4A60B93@Dewey>

I recently joined the mailing list and enjoy reading everyone's comments,
notes, etc.  I am well on my way to restoring my 66 and your notes have been
quite useful way up here in the Northeastern part of the world (New
Hampshire).

I am looking for a used heater valve for a 1966 1600 Roadster if anyone has
one as I really don't want to spend the money on a new one.  This is the valve
under the dash located after the elbow (~3" in diameter).

Shawn

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Thu Sep 10 20:02:06 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 19:02:06 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Heater Valve
References: <6ECC0DE5AAC54BA388EFAA27A4A60B93@Dewey>
Message-ID: <E8050ECB161C4C6594B20124EA5424C4@HPW>

Unless I'm completely mistaken, 66 1600 heater valve isn't located under the 
dash, it's located in the engine compartment in that area directly behind 
the valve cover.  At least that's the way it is in my 67 1600.

There isn't enough room behind the Heater Plenum itself to have a valve 
positioned there.

I'm not referring to the bypass valve at the carburators, that's the total 
"ON/OFF" valve.  The one you're referring to is the one that allows you to 
have a "little bit of heat" or the full blown enchilada.

But, all that aside, due to the difficulties and arm-bending contortions 
you'll be faced with, do you REALLY want to have to do it again if (when) it 
fails?

Just my 2 cents.
E

> I am looking for a used heater valve for a 1966 1600 Roadster if anyone 
> has
> one as I really don't want to spend the money on a new one.  This is the 
> valve
> under the dash located after the elbow (~3" in diameter).
>
> Shawn 

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 22:54:53 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 21:54:53 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil drain plug washer size?
In-Reply-To: <COL116-W57AA8B4C760D25BFB7AE82ACE80@phx.gbl>
References: <79E61326B020486293236A12EB915D42@delled48909442>
	<5D384A69B8A842418A694373CEA8CB05@HPW>
	<COL116-W57AA8B4C760D25BFB7AE82ACE80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002c01ca329c$00ded150$029c73f0$@net>

Outside diameter 22mm
Inside diameter 15.5mm
Thickness 3mm

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Gillis
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 7:36 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil drain plug washer size?

Riddle me this Batmen and Robins-



What size is the copper crush washer for a 69 1600 Roadster's oil drain pan
plug?  I went to many a kragens, pep boys, etc but wasn't convinced about
size/availability.  Don't have original with me as it is still holding oil
in
pan (save a couple of drops here and there).



Not wanting to chase a simple oil leak post oil change like I did with my
Supra, I went to get factory parts.  When I went to Nissan, I got what I
think
is the 'smaller' of two options for the Roadster, seemed about 5/8-3/4 inch
or
so in diameter.  I base this 'two sizes' opinion on the information gleaned
from 311s.org and vendors pages to determine sizing.



Just trying to get the parts together for a 'simple' oil change and would
like
to prevent any 'do-overs'



Minden, NV trip is next weekend!!!!



Thanks in advance,



Eric G

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON
:
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Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From smlibanker at comcast.net  Fri Sep 11 05:00:58 2009
From: smlibanker at comcast.net (The Bankers)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 07:00:58 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
Message-ID: <4E6D43D376104FF881579EB1EECD2E2C@Dewey>

I was not clear when I said I needed a heater valve for my 66.  I am looking
for the heater AIR valve, not the coolant/water valve.  This is the valve that
controls the amount of outside air into the cabin area and is roughly 3" in
diameter and is connected to the heater controls via cable.  It mounts with
four small screws.  Mine is rotted so the hinge is gone.  Under the  Rallye
website, it is listed as part #271-10.

Sorry about the confusion and I am still looking for one.

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Fri Sep 11 12:30:38 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 11:30:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
References: <4E6D43D376104FF881579EB1EECD2E2C@Dewey>
Message-ID: <16A0D4A97BA04DB0A700FEAB7F7D046F@HPW>

I apologize for the misunderstanding as well. Re-reading your original post, 
I obviously jumped to a different conclusion, hence my reply.

That one is also a pain to get to, but thankfully not as much as the water 
one.

When I refurbished mine, the screws holding it in place sheared off flush 
with the base.  It can be quite a chore drilling and tapping the mounting 
nuts to get a new screw in there. You might want to check those before you 
install your replacement part.

Good Luck
Enrique


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Bankers"
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 4:00 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)


>I was not clear when I said I needed a heater valve for my 66.  I am 
>looking
> for the heater AIR valve, not the coolant/water valve.  This is the valve 
> that
> controls the amount of outside air into the cabin area and is roughly 3" 
> in
> diameter and is connected to the heater controls via cable.  It mounts 
> with
> four small screws.  Mine is rotted so the hinge is gone.  Under the 
> Rallye
> website, it is listed as part #271-10.
>
> Sorry about the confusion and I am still looking for one.
> ________________________________________ 

From az589 at lafn.org  Fri Sep 11 13:41:23 2009
From: az589 at lafn.org (Stan Chernoff)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 12:41:23 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadster Sighting in Long Beach, CA
Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20090911123718.04f4bfa0@lafn.org>

Saw a '69 1600 in the VA parking lot in Long Beach about 10:00 
am.  Car was metallic blue with a tan top and POW/MIA front license 
plate.  Anybody on the list?

Stan

From mhknorr at msn.com  Fri Sep 11 15:23:33 2009
From: mhknorr at msn.com (Michael Knorr)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 15:23:33 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] Another Thread on Synthetic Oils
Message-ID: <COL106-W5089B613E2C1D58F77174FAAE70@phx.gbl>

I just read my Datsun Roadster Book's short treatise on synthetic oils and its
warning about not to use Mobil 1 on 1968 two-liters. I have a 1966 SPL and
have been using Mobil 1 5W-30 since the day I switched to synthetic about four
years ago. The only leak the car has is about a pint every 3,000 or so miles
around the pan gasket, and that leak has been present since long before I
switched to Mobil 1.



What are the problems with Mobil 1? What are listers' recommendations for
synthetics, and where does one buy them? I originally bought Mobil 1 because
my parts store had gallons of the stuff, it's been around for years, and I
don't worry about it losing viscosity when my car sits in storage all winter
-- yeah, I can't wait to move back to the West Coast. Any and all help is
appreciated.



Regards, Michael Knorr

1966 SPL311-03639

From tputland at charter.net  Fri Sep 11 17:57:49 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:57:49 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] EI dizzy timing specs
Message-ID: <20090911195749.IPSWT.5070887.root@mp20>

I cannot find the instructions that Gary included with the dizzy I bought from him. 

Someone PLEASE send me the timing specs for a 1970 1600 that has been desmogged and is running a GB EI dizzy. 

Thanks
Tim

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 11 18:38:46 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 17:38:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] EI dizzy timing specs
In-Reply-To: <20090911195749.IPSWT.5070887.root@mp20>
References: <20090911195749.IPSWT.5070887.root@mp20>
Message-ID: <446688.99273.qm@web36308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tim,
My instructions are on www.311s.org in the WIKI Tech Section under Ignition.
Gary




________________________________
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 5:57:49 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] EI dizzy timing specs

I cannot find the instructions that Gary included with the dizzy I bought from him. 

Someone PLEASE send me the timing specs for a 1970 1600 that has been desmogged and is running a GB EI dizzy. 

Thanks
Tim

From tputland at charter.net  Fri Sep 11 19:01:29 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 21:01:29 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] EI dizzy timing specs
In-Reply-To: <446688.99273.qm@web36308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090911210129.ZHNUI.5073262.root@mp20>

oh My GOD. Am I an idiot or what? All I can think about is the public touring at Elkhart Lake tomorrow and taking one of my Roadsters on the Road America track for some hot laps. I guess I knew the info I needed was there all along. SIGH. 
Thanks Gary. 

check the signature all...you know...the end where all is explained.....

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning
Clueless in Wisconsin ;-)

---- Gary Boone <gboone70 at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
Tim,
My instructions are on www.311s.org in the WIKI Tech Section under Ignition.
Gary




________________________________
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 5:57:49 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] EI dizzy timing specs

I cannot find the instructions that Gary included with the dizzy I bought from him. 

Someone PLEASE send me the timing specs for a 1970 1600 that has been desmogged and is running a GB EI dizzy. 

Thanks
Tim

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 11 19:17:20 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 18:17:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Another Thread on Synthetic Oils
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W5089B613E2C1D58F77174FAAE70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W5089B613E2C1D58F77174FAAE70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <185155.73750.qm@web36303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Michael,
I've used Mobil 1 5W-30 for years in my U20 engine with no problem, but that rear main rope seal is an antiquated design and very difficult to make it seal 100%.  However, within the last few years, most motor oils have reduced or eliminated the zinc/phosphorous additive, ZDDP (necessary for good lubrication for the U20 and R16 engines' cams due to there flat tappet design).  Most modern oils have reduced or eliminated this additive to prevent contamination/poisoning  of the catalytic converter (not a concern for a roadster unless you've added a cat).  See this article:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/motor_oil_additives.htm
There are plenty of other articles on the web if you google "flat tappet ZDDP".  Mobil has a web page on it too, and Mobil 1 5W-30 has reduced or eliminated the ZDDP.  There are other Mobil 1 oils that still have the ZDDP, but they're heavier viscosity oils.  There are oils and additives out there that still have ZDDP additive, such as the synthetic Redline 5W-30 High Performance Oil, which is what I'm using now.   
Gary


From: Michael Knorr <mhknorr at msn.com>
To: Datsun Roadster Listserver <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 3:23:33 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Another Thread on Synthetic Oils


What are the problems with Mobil 1? What are listers' recommendations for
synthetics, and where does one buy them? I originally bought Mobil 1 because
my parts store had gallons of the stuff, it's been around for years, and I
don't worry about it losing viscosity when my car sits in storage all winter
-- yeah, I can't wait to move back to the West Coast. Any and all help is
appreciated.



Regards, Michael Knorr

1966 SPL311-03639
________________________________________

From aultgc at att.net  Fri Sep 11 21:19:44 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 22:19:44 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] eBay Item 260475130641
Message-ID: <ABFC54B7634E4AE18BB4B09490825F83@gaxp1>

There is a nice looking roadster for sale on eBay, Item 260475130641.  The
initial listing was so full of blatant inaccuracies, one has to question the
integrity of the seller.  He clearly does not know what he is selling, and I
wonder what else is seriously wrong with this car considering all of the
misrepresentations in the intitial listing.

The listing has been revised with a note saying it only has a 4-speed, and
does not have airi conditioning or power anti-lock brakes after I called him
out on these points.  It still says it has an AM/FM stereo, but it looks like
a stock AM to me.

My advice to anyone on the list who might think they interested in this car is
to avoid it unless you make a very thorough personal inspection.  The seller
cannot be relied upon to be truthful.

Gary

From john_m_toda at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 12 01:32:20 2009
From: john_m_toda at yahoo.com (john_m_toda at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 00:32:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] how to remove a roadster door leveler?
Message-ID: <67970.4515.qm@web83504.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

trying to remove the doors and having a little problem with the leveler.
what's the trick?

thanks,
jt

From john_m_toda at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 12 01:34:04 2009
From: john_m_toda at yahoo.com (john_m_toda at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 00:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] how to remove a roadster door leveler?
Message-ID: <550061.37883.qm@web83508.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

> trying to remove the doors and having
> a little problem with the leveler.
> what's the trick?
> 
> thanks,
> jt

From Frank.L.May at umsl.edu  Sat Sep 12 09:21:25 2009
From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu (May, Frank)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 10:21:25 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting
References: <ABFC54B7634E4AE18BB4B09490825F83@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>

1969 SRL311-12936

Happy Saturday,

Bear with me as the first part of this note perhaps doesn't look like it
belongs here.......

My wife and I do a lot of home canning, and after processing the last batch of
tomatoes, I attempted to remove the bands from the jars so I could wash them
before storing.  The bands were stuck.  The solution was to hold the jar under
running water.  This got some "lubrication" between the metal band and the
glass jar, and also dissolved away some of the tomato juice which may have
come out of the jar during processing.

And you ask, "How does this apply to Datsun Roadsters?"

In my First Posting to the group, I said I was beginning to restore my 1969
roadster.   The machinist who will be working on the motor requires that I
first get the crank turning (indicating the pistons are not "seized" in the
cylinders).  I put a socket on the vibration damper nut and attempted to turn,
but it wouldn't.  I've shot lots of lubricant into the spark plug holes,
without apparent effect.  With the scenario of the canning jars above, what is
the chance that the problem is not stuck pistons, but rather, dry bearings
(crank, rods, cam, jackshaft, etc), and if I could get some lubricant to them
I might get the motor innards to move?

If the issue is really dry bearings (it's been sitting without running since
about 1974), how might I externally pump oil into the motor?  Some years ago I
watched another motor being restored.  The machinist gravity fed oil into the
oil pressure sender port to be sure there was lubrication on the bearings
before attempting to start the newly rebuilt motor.  Does anyone have insight
into how I might attempt this with the U20 motor?

Looking for lots of responses.......

Frank May
St. Louis County, Missouri

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sat Sep 12 10:16:28 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 12:16:28 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <ABFC54B7634E4AE18BB4B09490825F83@gaxp1>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <8CC01DB84ADB956-D98-49B78@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com>

 Stupid question of the day:
Could you drop the oil pan and shoot some oil up into the innards? would be a bit of a pain but there could be a bunch of gunk in the pan you don't want circulating anyway.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: May, Frank <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
To: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 12, 2009 8:21 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting










1969 SRL311-12936

Happy Saturday,

Bear with me as the first part of this note perhaps doesn't look like it
belongs here.......

My wife and I do a lot of home canning, and after processing the last batch of
tomatoes, I attempted to remove the bands from the jars so I could wash them
before storing.  The bands were stuck.  The solution was to hold the jar under
running water.  This got some "lubrication" between the metal band and the
glass jar, and also dissolved away some of the tomato juice which may have
come out of the jar during processing.

And you ask, "How does this apply to Datsun Roadsters?"

In my First Posting to the group, I said I was beginning to restore my 1969
roadster.   The machinist who will be working on the motor requires that I
first get the crank turning (indicating the pistons are not "seized" in the
cylinders).  I put a socket on the vibration damper nut and attempted to turn,
but it wouldn't.  I've shot lots of lubricant into the spark plug holes,
without apparent effect.  With the scenario of the canning jars above, what is
the chance that the problem is not stuck pistons, but rather, dry bearings
(crank, rods, cam, jackshaft, etc), and if I could get some lubricant to them
I might get the motor innards to move?

If the issue is really dry bearings (it's been sitting without running since
about 1974), how might I externally pump oil into the motor?  Some years ago I
watched another motor being restored.  The machinist gravity fed oil into the
oil pressure sender port to be sure there was lubrication on the bearings
before attempting to start the newly rebuilt motor.  Does anyone have insight
into how I might attempt this with the U20 motor?

Looking for lots of responses.......

Frank May
St. Louis County, Missouri
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 10:34:39 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 11:34:39 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <ABFC54B7634E4AE18BB4B09490825F83@gaxp1>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80909120934y220bd77cw937e74ca7cfcefaf@mail.gmail.com>

Frank,
If you have a truly seized (galled) bearing I don't think getting oil into
the system is going to help. My bet is on stuck piston rings. I'd look at
pulling the head yourself so you can make sure your penetrate is going all
the way around all of the cylinder bores. That will also let you get a gook
look at the condition of the cylinder walls.

HTH,
Ron

From reblues at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 10:57:09 2009
From: reblues at gmail.com (Richard Brown)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 12:57:09 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting
References: <ABFC54B7634E4AE18BB4B09490825F83@gaxp1><2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
	<2faaebf80909120934y220bd77cw937e74ca7cfcefaf@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <810F47A32B344FDF964A4B1BC8129CEE@ACER4230>

You can pull the distributor and tower. That will expose the oil pump drive. 
Put an old screwdriver shaft in a drill and use it to turn the pump counter 
clockwise. I would put fresh oil in the pan first.

I was given a car that had sat for 20 years.  Everything was frozen up, 
including the oil pump.  When I finally tore it down the pistons were all 
stuck.  When I got the pistons out the rings were frozen in the pistons.  It 
took weeks of soaking, banging, and cursing to get that engine apart.  That 
car had been sitting on the dirt covered with a tarp.

Good Luck
Richard Brown

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ronnie Day" <ronnie.day at gmail.com>
To: "May, Frank" <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
Cc: "Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Third Posting


> Frank,
> If you have a truly seized (galled) bearing I don't think getting oil into
> the system is going to help. My bet is on stuck piston rings. I'd look at
> pulling the head yourself so you can make sure your penetrate is going all
> the way around all of the cylinder bores. That will also let you get a 
> gook
> look at the condition of the cylinder walls.
>
> HTH,
> Ron
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From boakes at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 10:58:11 2009
From: boakes at gmail.com (Bill Oakes)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 11:58:11 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
Message-ID: <3ad057d60909120958t4cd83b76tfcf47972b46da4ce@mail.gmail.com>

So, before making the adjusts to make the '69 steering control box fit
in my '68 I thought I'd dig into the old one a little deeper.

Again, it was binding up and when I took it apart it just didn't feel
good, so I thought i'd save time and get a replacement.

Turns out what was making the trouble was the bearings that hold in
the tab (that slips into the worm gear to turn everything) into the
assembly shaft fell into the worm gear and made the trouble. See
picture at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/boakes/SteeringAssemblyShaft#5380624385680449122

It kind of looks like the the caps at the top and bottom of that shaft
are "punched in" and you can't get in there. True?

So, if I can get just the assembly shaft I think I'm back in business.

Thoughts anyone?

thanks
Bill

'68 2000 Solex

From aultgc at att.net  Sat Sep 12 15:25:42 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 16:25:42 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting
References: <ABFC54B7634E4AE18BB4B09490825F83@gaxp1><2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FD6@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu><2faaebf80909120934y220bd77cw937e74ca7cfcefaf@mail.gmail.com>
	<810F47A32B344FDF964A4B1BC8129CEE@ACER4230>
Message-ID: <BF8F2867E41F449DAC38CB2E27B7A96B@gaxp1>

Richard,

You also need to pull the intermediate shaft (Assembly, Shaft-Driving 
according to Nissan) which is driven by either the camshaft (R16) or 
jackshaft (U20).  Then you can put a screwdriver bit into the slotted end of 
the oil pump shaft.  With the intermediate shaft in place, you'll be trying 
to turn the motor via the camshaft or jackshaft.

Sorry if that was implied by your response, but some folks who read these 
notes might not know that.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Brown" <reblues at gmail.com>
To: "Ronnie Day" <ronnie.day at gmail.com>; "May, Frank" <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
Cc: "Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Third Posting


> You can pull the distributor and tower. That will expose the oil pump 
> drive. Put an old screwdriver shaft in a drill and use it to turn the pump 
> counter clockwise. I would put fresh oil in the pan first.
>
> I was given a car that had sat for 20 years.  Everything was frozen up, 
> including the oil pump.  When I finally tore it down the pistons were all 
> stuck.  When I got the pistons out the rings were frozen in the pistons. 
> It took weeks of soaking, banging, and cursing to get that engine apart. 
> That car had been sitting on the dirt covered with a tarp.
>
> Good Luck
> Richard Brown
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ronnie Day" <ronnie.day at gmail.com>
> To: "May, Frank" <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
> Cc: "Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Third Posting
>
>
>> Frank,
>> If you have a truly seized (galled) bearing I don't think getting oil 
>> into
>> the system is going to help. My bet is on stuck piston rings. I'd look at
>> pulling the head yourself so you can make sure your penetrate is going 
>> all
>> the way around all of the cylinder bores. That will also let you get a 
>> gook
>> look at the condition of the cylinder walls.
>>
>> HTH,
>> Ron
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From aultgc at att.net  Sat Sep 12 15:45:33 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 16:45:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
References: <3ad057d60909120958t4cd83b76tfcf47972b46da4ce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9AFECF8B9A5D425AB753BE3C8C1E3075@gaxp1>

Bill,

Unless some parts were missing, I  don't know of a way those needle bearings 
could fall out with the box assembled.  When you puled the top off the box, 
and pulled the rocker shaft out of the ousing, the roller peg could have 
fallen out, allowing the needle bearigs to fall out.

I don't know for sure how to replace the bearings, but from the Nissan parts 
book, it almost looks like they go in from the top of the shaft.  Nissan 
calls the item in the top of the shaft a "Plug, ball roller", which says to 
me it comes out.  Maybe unscrews some way?  Anybody out there know?  I'll 
bet either Bubba or Steve Ehlers do.

Anyway, I'll send you a scan of the applicable pages from the Nissan parts 
manual via separate reply.  (Can't send attachments to the List.)  Let me 
know if it helps.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Oakes" <boakes at gmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 11:58 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box


> So, before making the adjusts to make the '69 steering control box fit
> in my '68 I thought I'd dig into the old one a little deeper.
>
> Again, it was binding up and when I took it apart it just didn't feel
> good, so I thought i'd save time and get a replacement.
>
> Turns out what was making the trouble was the bearings that hold in
> the tab (that slips into the worm gear to turn everything) into the
> assembly shaft fell into the worm gear and made the trouble. See
> picture at:
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/boakes/SteeringAssemblyShaft#5380624385680449122
>
> It kind of looks like the the caps at the top and bottom of that shaft
> are "punched in" and you can't get in there. True?
>
> So, if I can get just the assembly shaft I think I'm back in business.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
>
> thanks
> Bill
>
> '68 2000 Solex
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From stevenehlers at charter.net  Sat Sep 12 21:20:51 2009
From: stevenehlers at charter.net (Steve Ehlers)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:20:51 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Test
Message-ID: <4AAC6513.9040606@charter.net>

Testing 1,2,3 .My mail is not being posted here and the Admin will not 
reply to as why .
Checking now to see if I can only receive this forums posts .Sorry for 
the unnecessary bandwidth to others .
Steve Ehlers

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Sat Sep 12 21:56:05 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:56:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Test
References: <4AAC6513.9040606@charter.net>
Message-ID: <0CF88B0466A34FBAAB101FDBC3218821@HPW>

Nothing came through.... you better try it again.

E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Ehlers" 
Subject: [Roadsters] Test


> Testing 1,2,3 .My mail is not being posted here and the Admin will not 
> reply to as why .
> Checking now to see if I can only receive this forums posts .Sorry for 
> the unnecessary bandwidth to others .
> Steve Ehlers

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Sat Sep 12 23:38:44 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:38:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Test
References: <4AAC6513.9040606@charter.net>
	<0CF88B0466A34FBAAB101FDBC3218821@HPW>
	<1252815841.7945.1.camel@harlie.localdomain>
Message-ID: <7826E9EDB09541F9A15A694EA0EF6309@HPW>

And I replied to BOTH.

Wouldn't be surprised on the size restriction, might have also been due to 
an attachment, although those are normally stripped on e-mail lists.

FWIW
E
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Bauman" <plhbauman at earthlink.net>
To: "E Scanlon" <escanlon at wa-net.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Test


> Steve:
>
> I replied directly to your email addy, not the list. Your original email
> arrived here via autox.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: E Scanlon <escanlon at wa-net.com>
> To: Steve Ehlers <stevenehlers at charter.net>,
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Test
> Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:56:05 -0700
>
> Nothing came through.... you better try it again.
>
> E
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Ehlers"
> Subject: [Roadsters] Test
>
>
>> Testing 1,2,3 .My mail is not being posted here and the Admin will not
>> reply to as why .
>> Checking now to see if I can only receive this forums posts .Sorry for
>> the unnecessary bandwidth to others .
>> Steve Ehlers
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as plhbauman at earthlink.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tom at datsun2000.com  Sat Sep 12 23:48:16 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:48:16 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering control box
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGEEPCDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

Years ago when I pulled wrench for Bill Steven's D Sports racer with a
Mercury outboard laying flat into a Fiat gearbox I had to deal with bearings
similar to this type.

In order to put the needle bearings in the caps and keep them there we
packed the caps with good old axle grease and pressed the needles into the
grease, which held everything together.

Being a 2-Stroke engine the fuel was fed from the carbs past the crankshaft
and up along the side of the cylinder walls and into the cylinder.  As the
gasoline passed by the rod and main bearings it would wash the grease out of
the bearings and carried it into the cylinders.  That made the fuel mixture
something that would not burn, so to start the car after the engine was
reassembled we tied a rope to the roll bar and towed the car on neighborhood
streets at midnight.  There were 3 megaphone stacks (read LOUD) pointing
towards the sky, and while the grease was burning out the flames from those
stacks went about 15-20' into the air.  When the engine did start the car
was quickly driven around the block and put into the garage, where the door
was put down and the lights were turned off while neighborhood lights in
some homes were coming on.  BTW, NOBODY ever wanted to pit next to us
because of the extreemly loud exhaust noise that came from this engine.  You
could hear the car all the way around Seattle International Raceway or
Westwood when it was on the track.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org



On 9/12/2009 9:58:11 AM, Bill Oakes (boakes at gmail.com) wrote:
> So, before making the adjusts to make the
> '69 steering control box fit
> in my '68 I thought
> I'd dig into the old one a little deeper.
>
> Again, it was binding up and when I took it apart it just didn't
> feel
> good, so I thought
> i'd save time and get a replacement.
>
> Turns out what was making the trouble was the bearings that hold in
> the tab (that slips into the worm gear to turn everything) into the
> assembly shaft fell into the worm gear and made the trouble. See
> picture at:
>
>
http://picasaweb.google.com/boakes/SteeringAssemblyShaft#5380624385680449122
>
> It kind of looks like the the caps at the top and bottom of that shaft
> are "punched in" and you can't
> get in there. True?
>
> So, if I can get just the assembly shaft I think
> I'm back in business.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
>
> thanks
> Bill
>
> '68 2000
> Solex
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as tom at datsun2000.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 08:54:43 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 07:54:43 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Test
In-Reply-To: <7826E9EDB09541F9A15A694EA0EF6309@HPW>
References: <4AAC6513.9040606@charter.net><0CF88B0466A34FBAAB101FDBC3218821@HPW><1252815841.7945.1.camel@harlie.localdomain>
	<7826E9EDB09541F9A15A694EA0EF6309@HPW>
Message-ID: <3C741D2E69CB458CA65234CE1A831EC8@xp>

Yeah, the list software can act wonky when the post reaches some size. What
that size is, I've never been able to determine because it's inconsistent.

Yeah, no attachments....period. They'll be stripped out and may screw up
your post. Been that way for years and years. Host your pics/whatever and
include a link to 'em in your post. 

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of E Scanlon
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 10:39 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Test

And I replied to BOTH.

Wouldn't be surprised on the size restriction, might have also been due to
an attachment, although those are normally stripped on e-mail lists.

FWIW
E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Bauman" <plhbauman at earthlink.net>
To: "E Scanlon" <escanlon at wa-net.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Test


> Steve:
>
> I replied directly to your email addy, not the list. Your original email
> arrived here via autox.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: E Scanlon <escanlon at wa-net.com>
> To: Steve Ehlers <stevenehlers at charter.net>,
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Test
> Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:56:05 -0700
>
> Nothing came through.... you better try it again.
>
> E
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Ehlers"
> Subject: [Roadsters] Test
>
>
>> Testing 1,2,3 .My mail is not being posted here and the Admin will not
>> reply to as why .
>> Checking now to see if I can only receive this forums posts .Sorry for
>> the unnecessary bandwidth to others .
>> Steve Ehlers
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as plhbauman at earthlink.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 13 11:02:03 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 10:02:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Finally racing again
Message-ID: <807384.22880.qm@web36304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I finally completed my roadster's fuel injection conversion recently and ran my first Solo 2 event in 4 years, on August 29.  The
engine stumbled quite a lot under partial throttle but it was fast
enough to take first place out of 5 cars.  My ECU programming wasn't
close at all because I didn't have time to do a proper tune before the
event.  But I've made significant progress with tuning since the
event.  Tuning EFI with ITBs is a real challenge.  Results are here (I'm in C-Street Prepared):  
http://www.rmsolo.org/msp_eventpts.php?rep=1_20090829SS
You can see some photos of my EFI conversion here:
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/271132
Here's a video from the Aug 29 event.  The video was taken with a HD camera, so the car looks way out of proportion vertically:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBHfAxP86FA
It was a fun event in my class because the lead swapped with every run.
Gary

From edmitche at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 12:53:31 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 12:53:31 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] I'm a loser baby...
Message-ID: <4aad3fa8.9513f30a.06c8.ffffc46a@mx.google.com>

Hey guys \ gurlz.

 

How come no one told me???

 

Are my rear springs mounted wrong?
http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

 

First few slides

 

 

I found a pic at
http://www.mydatsunroadster.com/images/large/leaf_spring_rear_removed.jpg

 

They indeed go inside the scroll?

 

You mean...I COULDA DIED!  : /

 

And was wondering about this before and finally decided to actually research
this a bit.but it looks like I assembled my rear springs incorrectly

 

I thought her butt was a bit "up in the air"  

 

Gunna take this apart..and try again.

 

Ed Mitchell 

Las Cruces, NM 

 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

 

http://www.ziaroc.com/

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG    <--Dead Betty  : )

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 13 13:50:28 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 12:50:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Water pump
Message-ID: <761035.34322.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I have a 1970 1600 that now the water pump seems to be leaking where the Alternator tension adjusting bracket bolts on is leaking. Are the water pumps rebuildable or does anyone have one for sale? 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 13 14:57:21 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 14:57:21 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Whining time, Team.Net updates
Message-ID: <20090913205721.12EAF2E054@bradakis.com>

Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who
keeps Team.Net on the air, I do my share of whining.
But the whining here is coming from one of the disks
on the server, a bearing ready to fail in a few days,
a couple of weeks, maybe not until 2010.  Who knows?

Rather than risk a sudden failure, it would be prudent
to consider getting new hardware.  And that is where you
come in.  I didn't have an official fund drive this year,
though donations have come in at random times during the
year.

It seems to be time for those of you who have not
recently contributed to step up and assist in keeping
Team.Net on the air.  If you have a few dollars to spare
and desire to support this endeavor, check out the web
page http://www.team.net/donate.html  I, and thousands
of folks around the planet would appreciate it.  Gee, I
haven't taken an actual count of all subscribers lately,
I ought to do a headcount.

On a related note, I have been doing a few things, like
moving a few more lists from majordomo to mailman.  Back
when I started doing this about 20 years ago majordomo
was the hot ticket.  It is a bit outdated now, mailman is
much more web friendly, hopefully much easier for you
folks to use.  Of course, there are those who still try
to use majordomo to manage their mailman subscriptions,
not much I can do about that!

One thing I did was change the judson list, which was
intended for discussion of classic Judson superchargers
to superchargers at autox.team.net, opening it up for folks
to discuss other brands.  Feel free to go to the mailman
page, http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo to sign up if
you so desire.

Actually I had hoped more folks would sign up for the-local
list, a place for random discussion about all sorts of stuff.
Tell a joke, review a movie, report the antics of your favorite
public idiot, lament the last loss of your team, whatever.

If there is a list you'd like to see, chances are I'd set one
up, no problem.

But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive,
and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Thanks!

mjb.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 13 16:01:58 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 17:01:58 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] early 67 windshield and dash assembley
References: <761035.34322.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F745E82969CC4CC4967203138F7BDC22@ranteer.local>

as my (low) windshield, dash, and little chrome surround are all ready to 
install, i'm wondering what the recommended assembly order is.

do i wait on installing the rear view mirror?

thanks. 

From aultgc at att.net  Sun Sep 13 17:05:33 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:05:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] early 67 windshield and dash assembley
References: <761035.34322.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<F745E82969CC4CC4967203138F7BDC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <352AE40794934EA4BA5027FB7B10F6B8@gaxp1>

Oliver,

Is the complete dash out of the car, or just the dash pad.

Assuming it is, indeed, the entire dash with the pad already installed, I'd 
install the chrome trim ring and the base for the RV mirror, then install 
the dash.  The windshield can go in last.

If the dash itself is in the car, install the pad, chrome trim ring, mirror 
base then the windshield.

Make sure you have the four "twisties" for the tonneau installed, also.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 5:01 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] early 67 windshield and dash assembley


> as my (low) windshield, dash, and little chrome surround are all ready to 
> install, i'm wondering what the recommended assembly order is.
>
> do i wait on installing the rear view mirror?
>
> thanks. ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Sun Sep 13 17:29:38 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 16:29:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] early 67 windshield and dash assembley
References: <761035.34322.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<F745E82969CC4CC4967203138F7BDC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1FA209D9D47A4433BFED6CF418CE1D6F@HPW>

I presume that when you refer to the "little chrome surround" you are 
refering to the edging all the way around the face of the dash.  If so, I'd 
recommend assembling the dash complete, i.e. faceplate, then padded portion 
and the chrome edging and installing all that as a unit.  That's cause that 
bit of chrome edging requires those flat sheet metal lock washers to hold it 
in place.  The dash is "fun" enough to install without trying to locate 
where and how to install those onto the little bit of pin that pokes 
through.

If you feel agile enough, install the instruments afterwards, although I did 
mine beforehand.  It makes it a bit heavier, but the end result is that 
you're not fighting to locate connectors, butterfly nuts, washers. etc while 
upside down on your back.

DO mount the rearview mirror BASE, but not the actul mirror.

Once the dash is in place.... THEN the windshield.

But that's just my 2"
Enrique


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 3:01 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] early 67 windshield and dash assembley


> as my (low) windshield, dash, and little chrome surround are all ready to 
> install, i'm wondering what the recommended assembly order is.
>
> do i wait on installing the rear view mirror?
>
> thanks. 

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 18:22:04 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 17:22:04 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] I'm a loser baby...
In-Reply-To: <4aad3fa8.9513f30a.06c8.ffffc46a@mx.google.com>
References: <4aad3fa8.9513f30a.06c8.ffffc46a@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <002b01ca34d1$63ceb1e0$2b6c15a0$@net>

You didn't ask?  ;-)

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:54 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] I'm a loser baby...

Hey guys \ gurlz.

 

How come no one told me???

 

Are my rear springs mounted wrong?
http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

 

First few slides

 

 

I found a pic at
http://www.mydatsunroadster.com/images/large/leaf_spring_rear_removed.jpg

 

They indeed go inside the scroll?

 

You mean...I COULDA DIED!  : /

 

And was wondering about this before and finally decided to actually research
this a bit.but it looks like I assembled my rear springs incorrectly

 

I thought her butt was a bit "up in the air"  

 

Gunna take this apart..and try again.

 

Ed Mitchell 

Las Cruces, NM 

 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

 

http://www.ziaroc.com/

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG    <--Dead Betty  : )
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From stevenehlers at charter.net  Sun Sep 13 19:56:24 2009
From: stevenehlers at charter.net (Steve Ehlers)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:56:24 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story and EI distributors
Message-ID: <4AADA2C8.9040706@charter.net>

Hello Gordon ,Tim , Gary , Linda ,Stan , Garry B ,Dave B. and Fellow 
Datsun owners ,

 First off , I would like to make the Roadster Community aware of the 
fact that there are more people building specialty Datsun / Nissan 
distributors than what this Forum and others have advertised .This was 
previously pointed out by Stan Chernoff a while back .As Stan pointed 
out ,Boone mass marketed his Version for the Datsun Roadster thru the 
Internet ,the Forum lists ,and the Name brand Datsun Roadster Vendors 
.To his credit , he thought he invented this conversion ,as he 
approached me about buying his business in Nov 2007.
  So.... to set the story straight , I saw No need to purchase 
information that he made readily available on the Internet for free. I 
didn't need to pay for information
I already knew ,on how to Rebuild / Remanufacture Datsun Nissan 
Distributors ,as I have been doing this work and this particular 
conversion for over 20 years .
I started rebuilding Datsun Distributors and modifying them as far back 
as the mid 70's and as many others have done since .
  Nobody has used the Internet like Boone did ,to make it seem to the 
general viewing public, that he invented this conversion. Based on his 
statement to me , he had a self perceived patent and therefore monopoly 
, because of his claimed 270 + sales of the unit .

 I own the now Oldest ( 30 + years ) Datsun / Nissan Z car Specialty 
shop in the State of Texas . I have been very busy keeping up with all 
the Service ,Repair, Restoration and Race Preparation on my Z car 
Customer base ,not to mention all the other Datsun /Nissan /Infinti line 
ups as well .
  I do Repair / Restore our beloved Roadsters and have for over 35 years 
.As of late, due to the very limited number of cars locally and the 
parts availability ,we have been selective of what cars I will work with 
. I have done complete frame up Restorations and Race car prepped 
chassis' and engines over the years .I bought my first Roadster in 1974 
and still own it today .I do sell some NOS ,Remanufactured and Used 
parts as well .

 So if you want another option to buy a Quality Electronic Ignition 
Distributor ,backed by a 30 year old company that was formed to provide 
a better service to it's customers ,drop us a line . I custom build my 
units as per customer engine needs ,stock and custom advance curves , 
and we do "Plug and Play" MSD units also .
As Gordon clarified his comments , I'm not Discounting the Boone / 
Brisco adventure or Stan's rebuilt unit as not being Good units . I'm 
just wanting to make it clear that I offer another alternative to the 
Roadster Forum based community of parts offerings .

Best Regards ,
Steve Ehlers
Rising Sun Performance Inc.
7600 Benbrook Parkway Suite #2
Benbrook ,Texas 76126
817-731-6092
www.risingsunperformance.com

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sun Sep 13 22:24:59 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 00:24:59 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] I'm a loser baby...
In-Reply-To: <002b01ca34d1$63ceb1e0$2b6c15a0$@net>
References: <4aad3fa8.9513f30a.06c8.ffffc46a@mx.google.com>
	<002b01ca34d1$63ceb1e0$2b6c15a0$@net>
Message-ID: <8CC030A74D1755C-1B80-3F7C0@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>

 Dude, like I would know...LOL

Linda





-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:54 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] I'm a loser baby...

Hey guys \ gurlz.

 

How come no one told me???

 

Are my rear springs mounted wrong?
http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

 

First few slides

 

 

I found a pic at
http://www.mydatsunroadster.com/images/large/leaf_spring_rear_removed.jpg

 

They indeed go inside the scroll?

 

You mean...I COULDA DIED!  : /

 

And was wondering about this before and finally decided to actually research
this a bit.but it looks like I assembled my rear springs incorrectly

 

I thought her butt was a bit "up in the air"  

 

Gunna take this apart..and try again.

 

Ed Mitchell 

Las Cruces, NM 

 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Mon Sep 14 00:53:13 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 23:53:13 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Finally racing again
References: <807384.22880.qm@web36304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2DD17DAC64B0417EB1AEF039BE047B75@Daryl>

Hey Gary!
Good to see you're getting the car on the track again finally. The pictures 
and video look great. Nice job!
Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Boone" <gboone70 at yahoo.com>


>I finally completed my roadster's fuel injection conversion recently and 
>ran my first Solo 2 event in 4 years, on August 29.  The
> engine stumbled quite a lot under partial throttle but it was fast
> enough to take first place out of 5 cars.  My ECU programming wasn't
> close at all because I didn't have time to do a proper tune before the
> event.  But I've made significant progress with tuning since the
> event.  Tuning EFI with ITBs is a real challenge.  Results are here (I'm 
> in C-Street Prepared):
> http://www.rmsolo.org/msp_eventpts.php?rep=1_20090829SS
> You can see some photos of my EFI conversion here:
> http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/271132
> Here's a video from the Aug 29 event.  The video was taken with a HD 
> camera, so the car looks way out of proportion vertically:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBHfAxP86FA
> It was a fun event in my class because the lead swapped with every run.
> Gary

From Keith.Bay at roundys.com  Mon Sep 14 10:26:55 2009
From: Keith.Bay at roundys.com (Bay, Keith)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 11:26:55 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Rescue Me?
Message-ID: <E249AF2065FD2549B5E2DE45EBEC9B1E01223C44@EXCHCL2.roundys.com>

Hi All,



I am actually an enthusiast for Triumph GT6s but have a soft spot for
1960-1970s sport cars in general. The Datsun 2000 (Fairlady?) has always
been one of my other favorites.



Anyway I saw a 1966 beside the road in a place I would not expect it to
be, in Northern Michigan. (Is there any place one WOULD expect one to
be). I am wondering if there is someone out there who would think of
this a real 'barn find' (although it probably hasn't been in a barn for
a while, it looks rough)?



I have pictures but haven't been able to get them to be part of this
message. They are available on request (see my direct email below)
unless someone can host the pictures so all can see them. Contact
details for the owner (?) are:



                Call 231-218-3815

$400.00



Sign inside the car 'hinted' that the engine was "blown".



I would ask only that whoever rescues this car let me know what happens
to it.



Then just this past weekend I saw an ad in the Milwaukee Journal
Sentinal for a Datsun 1600, no engine, for sale for less than four
figures. I can pull the particulars if anyone is interested in pursuing
it.





Keith A. Bay

1973 Triumph GT6 MkIII
<http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?section=triumph&vehicleID=184
&i=4>

North American Spitfire (& GT6) Squadron <http://www.nasshq.org/>





P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail








This message (including any attachments) is intended only for
the use of the
individual or entity to which it is addressed and
may contain information that
is non-public, proprietary,
privileged, confidential, and exempt from
disclosure under
applicable law or may constitute as attorney work product.
If
you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any use,
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this
communication is strictly
prohibited. If you have received this
communication in error, notify us
immediately by telephone and
(i) destroy this message if a facsimile or (ii)
delete this message
immediately if this is an electronic communication.

Thank
you.

From tputland at charter.net  Mon Sep 14 10:49:52 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 9:49:52 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] test
Message-ID: <20090914124952.MZWS9.5028780.root@mp08>

I have sent several things this am...is this thing on?

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 12:48:10 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 18:48:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] test
In-Reply-To: <20090914124952.MZWS9.5028780.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <1051196342.1076471252954090283.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Pass. 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net> 
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 9:49:52 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] test 

I have sent several things this am...is this thing on? 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

Datsun-roadsters mailing list 

http://www.team.net/archive 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From hallosb at juno.com  Mon Sep 14 14:09:23 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:09:23 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Third Posting
Message-ID: <20090914.130923.22225.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

Frank writes: The machinist who will be working on the motor requires that I
first get the crank turning (indicating the pistons are not "seized" in the
cylinders).

Frank,

How much work are you comfortable doing yourself? Have you ever disassembled a
motor? You have to pull the motor to take it to a machine shop which, requires
a lot of wrenching and mechanical skills. Once you've gone that far, placing
the engine on an engine stand and breaking it down isn't much more work. Once
it's on an engine stand you can pull the oil pan, pull the cylinder head,
check the crankshaft, etc. However, you're getting very involved at that
point.

If that sounds like too much to take on, you should see if you can get a local
mechanic to tear it down for you. Too bad, you don't live closer. I'd help you
do it.

Thanks,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600





____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
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YAZta0qbieQooOcqrino1fGeo4/

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Tue Sep 15 07:06:21 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 08:06:21 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] soft top with no quarter windows?
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030397F1@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

Saw this ad, no connection with seller, don't think I have ever seen this
car.

This top has no < windows, and has a squared out back window.  From another
application?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1374893532.html

Fergus O

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep 15 09:05:29 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 8:05:29 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
Message-ID: <20090915110529.F9QXU.5283357.root@mp07>

try this again,,,,,,,,first attempt didn't send.....

Dan Kroninger and myself (and anyone else who cares to help) are slowly getting 
the Dairyland Datsuns Club going again, but this time with a twist: Instead of 
just Dairyland Roadsters, we are going with Dairyland "Datsuns" and hoping to 
get Z cars, Dimes, trucks, etc in the mix. So, if you know of anyone in the 
dairyland, midwest, etc who has a Datsun/Nissan, please, please, pass my or 
Dan's email (d_kroninger at hotmail.com) along to them--or just forward this email 
to them asking them to drop one of us a note. 
 
We will have no dues and no officers and anyone can help "run" the club. All we 
want to do is drive the twisties and have fun. So, if you are in the dairyland 
or Midwest areas and want to have a get together or plan overnighters like the 
four or so we have already had in the past couple years, please, set it up and 
tell us about it. All who can, will come. The more the merrier. 
 
We are going to have a logo soon and hope to make shirts that any one can buy. I 
do not plan on making any profit what so ever on shirt sales. In face, I am 
going to pay for the silk screen(s) myself and then make it available to anyone 
who would like to use it. 
 
We hope to hear from you. 
 
Tim Putland 
Dairyland Datsuns 
Belleville, WI. 
'70 SPL AND SRL 
Still clueless but always learning 

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Tue Sep 15 09:41:20 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
In-Reply-To: <20090915110529.F9QXU.5283357.root@mp07>
References: <20090915110529.F9QXU.5283357.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>

 Does your club have a website
or a photo site for pics? That is always fun to see. Also what I like
to see when a write up on a fun run occurs, is a more detailed
description of the route...because I am out of the area and like to see
it on the map. You never know when you might be visiting some place and
it's good to know the scenic routes!

Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing.



Linda

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:05 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!










try this again,,,,,,,,first attempt didn't send.....

Dan Kroninger and myself (and anyone else who cares to help) are slowly getting 
the Dairyland Datsuns Club going again, but this time with a twist: Instead of 
just Dairyland Roadsters, we are going with Dairyland "Datsuns" and hoping to 
get Z cars, Dimes, trucks, etc in the mix. So, if you know of anyone in the 
dairyland, midwest, etc who has a Datsun/Nissan, please, please, pass my or 
Dan's email (d_kroninger at hotmail.com) along to them--or just forward this email 
to them asking them to drop one of us a note. 
 
We will have no dues and no officers and anyone can help "run" the club. All we 
want to do is drive the twisties and have fun. So, if you are in the dairyland 
or Midwest areas and want to have a get together or plan overnighters like the 
four or so we have already had in the past couple years, please, set it up and 
tell us about it. All who can, will come. The more the merrier. 
 
We are going to have a logo soon and hope to make shirts that any one can buy. I 

do not plan on making any profit what so ever on shirt sales. In face, I am 
going to pay for the silk screen(s) myself and then make it available to anyone 
who would like to use it. 
 
We hope to hear from you. 
 
Tim Putland 
Dairyland Datsuns 
Belleville, WI. 
'70 SPL AND SRL 
Still clueless but always learning 
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

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From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep 15 09:57:42 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:57:42 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsun Club weekend at Elkhart Lake
Message-ID: <20090915115742.WRQIE.5287581.root@mp07>

We could not have asked for better weather this past weekend for  the vintage 
races at Elkhart Lake-- low eighties with a light breeze. 
 
Dan, Ken, Steve and myself all met at the track Saturday for some track touring 
and classic race care drooling--once again I saw cars I had never before seen in 
person; very little American muscle but loads of fantastic European, British and 
Japanese classics. Hopefully the pictures taken of all of us touring will be 
available soon. Link(s) to follow from Dan and what the professional photographers that were on the track. Saturday evening we walked through a show car concourse at the Osthoff resort where we stayed Saturday night. There were even more beautiful cars there. How about that Allard or that 53 (?) Jaguar!! 
 
Sunday we made new Roadster friends when we drove to Joy and Mike Johnson's farm where we were treated to coffee and pastries and four PERFECT 2000 Roadsters: one from every year of production! Joy and Mike, you have a truly amazing fleet. I think I can speak for Dan and Ken when I say we are very envious!! Thanks again for letting each of us drive one of those beauties!!! After coffee, car talk, a tour of Mike's personal lift garage and more drooling, we took off for close to three hours of touring and twisties in the Kettle Moraine area. What fun!! Lunch at the Benson's Hideaway on the Long Lake in the Kettle Moraine Forest was a blast--great call Charlie! 
 
The day ended too quickly with Roadsters going their own way one by one along 
the way as each couple peeled off from the group to head home. 
 
Hopefully we can all get together again before the snow flies...unless of course 
there are others of you crazy enough like me to do a polar bear run!!! Any one 
interested? 
 
Thanks again to everyone who was there, Connie and I had a great weekend!! 
 
Tim 
Dairyland Datsuns 
Belleville, WI. 
'70 SPL AND SRL 
Still clueless but always learning

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Tue Sep 15 11:22:50 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:22:50 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] soft top with no quarter windows?
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030397F1@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <668CEE0A2A2040BDB34F647D023BC6E3@Daryl>

He thinks a 1600 is a fast car??
That looks like one honking big battery......

Oh, the top? don't know, but I don't like it..........

Daryl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] soft top with no quarter windows?


> Saw this ad, no connection with seller, don't think I have ever seen this
> car.
>
> This top has no < windows, and has a squared out back window.  From 
> another
> application?
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1374893532.html
>
> Fergus O

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Tue Sep 15 11:33:05 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:33:05 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] soft top with no quarter windows?
In-Reply-To: <668CEE0A2A2040BDB34F647D023BC6E3@Daryl>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030397F1@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<668CEE0A2A2040BDB34F647D023BC6E3@Daryl>
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F845103039AF5@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

I am with ya there, might as well get a hardtop!

I bought a Optima, just cause I was tired of wearing out batt's with my
wiring woes, but I really like the Odyssey mini batteries, they are so
small, can be fit into small creative places so easily.

-----Original Message-----
From: Daryl Smith [mailto:drlsmith at dccnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 10:23 AM
To: O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS); datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] soft top with no quarter windows?

He thinks a 1600 is a fast car??
That looks like one honking big battery......

Oh, the top? don't know, but I don't like it..........

Daryl


----- Original Message -----
From: "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] soft top with no quarter windows?


> Saw this ad, no connection with seller, don't think I have ever seen
this
> car.
>
> This top has no < windows, and has a squared out back window.  From
> another
> application?
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1374893532.html
>
> Fergus O

From arthurklin888 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 15 11:46:24 2009
From: arthurklin888 at yahoo.com (arthur lin)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:46:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030397F1@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <346268.55604.qm@web51009.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

does anyone know the seat belt bolt size and license plate bolt size for '66?

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep 15 12:40:15 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:40:15 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
In-Reply-To: <346268.55604.qm@web51009.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030397F1@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<346268.55604.qm@web51009.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003401ca3633$f7fff820$e7ffe860$@net>

I don't know the seat belt bolt size, but the license plate bolt holes on my
67.5 are #12-24.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of arthur lin
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 10:46 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size

does anyone know the seat belt bolt size and license plate bolt size for
'66?
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 15 13:22:54 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:22:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Lifter noise
Message-ID: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Are the lifters on the 1600 Mechanical or Hydraulic? The engine makes a fairly loud tick-tick-tick. Not a main or rod bearing thud type sound. has great oil pressure but seems to run a little hot. I live in Arizona so....

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Tue Sep 15 13:56:40 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:56:40 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030397F1@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<346268.55604.qm@web51009.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<003401ca3633$f7fff820$e7ffe860$@net>
Message-ID: <7A9A3D336ACB439A80E27AF6779F89F8@Daryl>

I don't know the licence plate, but the seat belt bolts appear to be a 7/16" 
fine thread.....
( my car is on jackstands & I crawled under to measure the thread 
diameter....). Providing that they are indeed SAE, and not metric like the 
pin bolts for the leaf springs!

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
To: "'arthur lin'" <arthurklin888 at yahoo.com>; 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>; "'Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell'" 
<Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size


>I don't know the seat belt bolt size, but the license plate bolt holes on 
>my
> 67.5 are #12-24.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of arthur lin
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 10:46 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
>
> does anyone know the seat belt bolt size and license plate bolt size for
> '66?
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as drlsmith at dccnet.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Tue Sep 15 14:12:33 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:12:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] electrical saga update,
 back on the road with no melting  plastic smells...
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F845103039C7A@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

Since all have helped out so much with my wiring woes, thought I'd give
ya the latest update.
(you know the background: I pulled a "triumph" and let all the smoke out
of my blinker/brake lite circuit, after having HOT fuses for quite some
time)

The process was to install a new ATC fuse jumper, as that is what melted
before, and run the car and put a gauge across the slots, but my
El-Cheapo multimeter had a 10A amp test range, so any overage (which I
knew I would have) would have fried it.
So, I unplugged all the side markers, and since I have both the stock
ammeter and a voltmeter functioning, I monitored them while connecting
each of the side markers, and found the rears were fine and the fronts
are still the culprit(s).

No more hot fuses.  No front side markers, but they are really only
ornamental anyway, right?
Rear running lites don't seem too bright (rear brake lites are SUPER
bright), but I was testing in the daytime, so the true test is when it
is dark out.

I'll work my way to the fronts, but next project is with the front end
up in the air (comp springs, new shocks, new ball joints, new b-j boots
all around), so I think that will be one of the "take a break, keep the
hands clean" side jobs while she is up on blocks.

Fergus O
(the Elmer Fudd of Electrons)

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Tue Sep 15 14:13:28 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 13:13:28 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Lifter noise
References: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EF10A4C41B0D4ED6A5C9B3C1F03C51F6@Daryl>

Solid and flat. Use an oil with adequate amounts of phosphorous and zinc, 
possibly a higher viscosity (15-40, 15-50, ........), and a valve adjustment 
may help.
Seems more than a few R engined roadster owners are having a tough time 
eliminating the tick, tick noise and are just adjusting to the least noise 
level........
myself included......

Daryl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com>


> Are the lifters on the 1600 Mechanical or Hydraulic? The engine makes a 
> fairly loud tick-tick-tick. Not a main or rod bearing thud type sound. has 
> great oil pressure but seems to run a little hot. I live in Arizona so....

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Tue Sep 15 15:05:34 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 14:05:34 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Lifter noise
In-Reply-To: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AAF9F2E.24057.138FD00@localhost>

> Are the lifters on the 1600 Mechanical or Hydraulic?
> The engine makes a fairly loud tick-tick-tick.

Mechanical. Sounds like they're a little loose. You'll want to
adjust them hot to get an accurate setting; I'm certain the how-to
is over on the wiki.

Other things could be causing the noise (broken guide, dropped
seat) but it probably just needs adjusting. If they're very far off,
after you adjust them you may want to rebalance the carbs.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

p.s. Be aware that today's oil is bad for our older engines. Recently
the amount of zinc additive has been drastically reduced. There's
lots of chatter on this subject - google "zddp". Today's oils are
reported to eat yesterday's camshafts.... Lots of people seem to
have turned to Rotella or Delo diesel oil...

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Tue Sep 15 15:25:34 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 17:25:34 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Lifter noise
In-Reply-To: <EF10A4C41B0D4ED6A5C9B3C1F03C51F6@Daryl>
References: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<EF10A4C41B0D4ED6A5C9B3C1F03C51F6@Daryl>
Message-ID: <8CC0462312FAC61-1344-32824@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>

 What valve adjustment method do you use? My car sounds better with the current technique for adjustment so I think it can make a difference.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Daryl Smith <drlsmith at dccnet.com>
To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>; David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Lifter noise









Solid and flat. Use an oil with adequate amounts of phosphorous and zinc, 
possibly a higher viscosity (15-40, 15-50, ........), and a valve adjustment 
may help.?

Seems more than a few R engined roadster owners are having a tough time 
eliminating the tick, tick noise and are just adjusting to the least noise 
level........?

myself included......?
?

Daryl?
?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com>?
?


> Are the lifters on the 1600 Mechanical or Hydraulic? The engine makes a 
> fairly loud tick-tick-tick. Not a main or rod bearing thud type sound. has 
> great oil pressure but seems to run a little hot. I live in Arizona so....?

________________________________________?

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html?
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You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net?
?

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?

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From dboerst at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 15 16:16:27 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:16:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Thanks for all the help
Message-ID: <829663.39667.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Thanks to everyone here. This is one heck of a great place! 

David 
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 15 16:24:11 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:24:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1600 Shop manual wanted
Message-ID: <884255.11663.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Do anyone have a shop manual they would sell? Does anyone know of a downloadable .pdf file? 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 15 17:05:20 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 16:05:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
In-Reply-To: <7A9A3D336ACB439A80E27AF6779F89F8@Daryl>
Message-ID: <332703.52066.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

they are sae

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, Daryl Smith <drlsmith at dccnet.com> wrote:


From: Daryl Smith <drlsmith at dccnet.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
To: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>, "'arthur lin'" <arthurklin888 at yahoo.com>, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net, "'Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 15, 2009, 2:56 PM


I don't know the licence plate, but the seat belt bolts appear to be a 7/16" 
fine thread.....
( my car is on jackstands & I crawled under to measure the thread 
diameter....). Providing that they are indeed SAE, and not metric like the 
pin bolts for the leaf springs!

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
To: "'arthur lin'" <arthurklin888 at yahoo.com>; 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>; "'Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell'" 
<Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size


>I don't know the seat belt bolt size, but the license plate bolt holes on 
>my
> 67.5 are #12-24.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of arthur lin
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 10:46 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 66 seat belt, license plate bolt size
>
> does anyone know the seat belt bolt size and license plate bolt size for
> '66?

From zubkoff at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 15 17:50:31 2009
From: zubkoff at sbcglobal.net (Dan Zubkoff)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 16:50:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1600 Shop manual wanted
In-Reply-To: <884255.11663.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <884255.11663.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <451896.43936.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://www.311s.org/PDFs/SPL311ServiceManualLRG.pdf

Dan Zubkoff
Houston, TX




________________________________
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 5:24:11 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] 1600 Shop manual wanted

Do anyone have a shop manual they would sell? Does anyone know of a downloadable .pdf file? 
You are subscribed as zubkoff at sbcglobal.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From bonosall at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 15 18:35:52 2009
From: bonosall at hotmail.com (Bonos)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 17:35:52 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 381
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6188.1253055925.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6188.1253055925.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY142-DS321FA17B7EC84BC5578F6D1E20@phx.gbl>

Re: I have one that I will sell. I think I paid $10 at Powell's for it.
Where are you located?

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:24:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] 1600 Shop manual wanted
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <884255.11663.qm at web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Do anyone have a shop manual they would sell? Does anyone know of a
downloadable .pdf file? 

 

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 4427 (20090915) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Tue Sep 15 20:44:25 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 19:44:25 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Lifter noise
References: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<EF10A4C41B0D4ED6A5C9B3C1F03C51F6@Daryl>
	<8CC0462312FAC61-1344-32824@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <21C6396998144F4D96B84E365A1D529C@Daryl>

I've used the methods from the 311s.org techwiki, Scott Sheeler's book, and just rotating the crank and adjusting the next valve that's closed.........
They all work, it's just a matter of how many times you do it to get proficient at it. It can be a bit frustrating sometimes holding the correct clearance as you tighten the nut..............

Daryl
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: ljordan704 at netscape.net 


  What valve adjustment method do you use? My car sounds better with the current technique for adjustment so I think it can make a difference.

  Linda





  -----Original Message-----
  From: Daryl Smith <drlsmith at dccnet.com>


  Solid and flat. Use an oil with adequate amounts of phosphorous and zinc, possibly a higher viscosity (15-40, 15-50, ........), and a valve adjustment may help. 
  Seems more than a few R engined roadster owners are having a tough time eliminating the tick, tick noise and are just adjusting to the least noise level........ 
  myself included...... 
   
  Daryl 
   
  ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com> 
   
  > Are the lifters on the 1600 Mechanical or Hydraulic? The engine makes a > fairly loud tick-tick-tick. Not a main or rod bearing thud type sound. has > great oil pressure but seems to run a little hot. I live in Arizona so.... 
  ________________________________________ 

From jake7140 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 15 21:54:11 2009
From: jake7140 at yahoo.com (Steve Jacobson)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:54:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23.1253037602.19695.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <734946.7553.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ha! You thought it was a joke!
http://www.cheesewheel450.com/
A friend of mine's kid set this up a number of years ago.  We could always
crash it!  They would appreciate the roadsters.

Steve


Steve's Racing web site

  www.NoNameRacing.com

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society

  www.elrss.com

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
...
Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing.



Linda

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Tue Sep 15 21:55:44 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:55:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fiberglass Composite Springs
Message-ID: <24CA078BDC3E46DC8EA1B8061A95D60A@Daryl>

Composite Springs arrived Sept. 10th.  
According to my digital bathroom scale (which measured a new stock spring at 22 lbs) these springs weigh in at 7.1 lbs each!  
Have some work to do tho, the supplied bushings are too wide and made for a 1/2" bolt whereas ours are 12mm........

Still working on the bushing issue. The 'eye' piece at the ends FAF sent to Scott and myself are a 2" od piece, which has some clearance issues (some minor grinding for room).
When I asked Mark at FAF about it, he told me they had a smaller 'eye' at 1.5" with a 1" hole for the bushing, which I think we might be able to use stock bushings on......maybe......
He is sending the 1.5" eyes to me so I can check it out and possibly change them. I'm waiting for those to arrive.
If they fit the stock bushings, fitting the springs should be a simple bolt in operation. 
BUT, when I measured the opening on the rear of a stock spring it was almost exactly 25mm, 1" = 25.4mm, so I'm not sure if that will be a close enough tolerance.
There is the possibility that a competition urethane setup might work. I think the front press in bushing might be too big tho......

Anyone have a measurement on that front bushing on the leaf spring?

The alternative is to have him turn some bushings in Delrin @ $45 extra and make a 12mm sleeve to fit the bushings ourselves/possibly have the holes made to fit our stock sleeves......or some other solution with common parts if we can find them. (FAF doesn't have any sleeves to fit a 12mm bolt)

I may make the springs work as I have them, because I'm not sure about removing the 'eye' and replacing it myself, possibly having to drill new mounting holes which I think would weaken the spring at the ends.........I was adamant about sending them back when discussing it this past weekend, but am re-considering.....

As it is now, I'm looking for some 1.5" od bushings to fit a 2 3/8" wide eye, between a mount that is 2 1/2" wide, with a steel sleeve to fit a 12mm pin.......Any Leads? 

As soon as I have the required parts, I will install the springs and measure the ride height etc. and post it. Bug me in about a week if I haven't posted anything.

Daryl
ps: Not having any luck with my ignition system. No spark. Aarggghhhh! Wanted to  get it to the meet on Sunday, but doesn't look like it'll happen.........

pps: At this point I have to apologize to Dieter Cramer, who was giving me advice on where to get the parts to fit my springs as they are, but I was determined that they were going back to get the 1.5" eye, and I wasn't very nice about it. My apologies Dieter. I knew when I left that I didn't handle it well. Hopefully I'll be somewhat more reasonable and calm next time  something like this comes up.

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Tue Sep 15 22:26:11 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 00:26:11 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
In-Reply-To: <734946.7553.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC049CF494C6EA-3DDC-3122B@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com>

 Cool. Any money goes to charity, so crash away..................They look like good sports!
Wisconsin is known for cheese, right, so I thought cruising to different cheese factories would be fun. 
Kind of like the Wine Country (Napa) valley tours of the wineries, except for that you need a designated driver.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Jacobson <jake7140 at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)










Ha! You thought it was a joke!
http://www.cheesewheel450.com/
A friend of mine's kid set this up a number of years ago.  We could always
crash it!  They would appreciate the roadsters.

Steve


Steve's Racing web site

  www.NoNameRacing.com

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society

  www.elrss.com

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
...
Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing.



Linda
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Sep 16 05:09:54 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 4:09:54 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
In-Reply-To: <8CC049CF494C6EA-3DDC-3122B@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090916070954.HZ622.5338512.root@mp07>

We cruise to various Brew Pubs--The Grumpy Troll in Mt Horeb is always in the loop. 

Cheese is for the wine drinking fondue crowd.

Tim


---- ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote: 

=============
 Cool. Any money goes to charity, so crash away..................They look like good sports!
Wisconsin is known for cheese, right, so I thought cruising to different cheese factories would be fun. 
Kind of like the Wine Country (Napa) valley tours of the wineries, except for that you need a designated driver.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Jacobson <jake7140 at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)










Ha! You thought it was a joke!
http://www.cheesewheel450.com/
A friend of mine's kid set this up a number of years ago.  We could always
crash it!  They would appreciate the roadsters.

Steve


Steve's Racing web site

  www.NoNameRacing.com

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society

  www.elrss.com

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
...
Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing.



Linda
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

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http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Wed Sep 16 09:25:15 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 11:25:15 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
In-Reply-To: <20090916070954.HZ622.5338512.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <8CC04F906216943-1880-39C9@webmail-m095.sysops.aol.com>

 LOL


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: ljordan704 at netscape.net; jake7140 at yahoo.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2009 4:09 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)










We cruise to various Brew Pubs--The Grumpy Troll in Mt Horeb is always in the 
loop. 

Cheese is for the wine drinking fondue crowd.

Tim


---- ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote: 

=============
 Cool. Any money goes to charity, so crash away..................They look like 
good sports!
Wisconsin is known for cheese, right, so I thought cruising to different cheese 
factories would be fun. 
Kind of like the Wine Country (Napa) valley tours of the wineries, except for 
that you need a designated driver.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Jacobson <jake7140 at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)










Ha! You thought it was a joke!
http://www.cheesewheel450.com/
A friend of mine's kid set this up a number of years ago.  We could always
crash it!  They would appreciate the roadsters.

Steve


Steve's Racing web site

  www.NoNameRacing.com

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society

  www.elrss.com

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
...
Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing.



Linda
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

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http://www.team.net/archive

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From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 16 09:25:43 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 15:25:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
In-Reply-To: <20090916070954.HZ622.5338512.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <1402399308.1952601253114743113.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hey, now....don't be knocking the fondue. We did that at a campout once. Quite a big hit. 

Pete "prefers brew pubs/taverns" 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net> 
To: ljordan704 at netscape.net, jake7140 at yahoo.com, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 4:09:54 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it) 

We cruise to various Brew Pubs--The Grumpy Troll in Mt Horeb is always in the loop. 

Cheese is for the wine drinking fondue crowd. 

Tim 


---- ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote: 

============= 
Cool. Any money goes to charity, so crash away..................They look like good sports! 
Wisconsin is known for cheese, right, so I thought cruising to different cheese factories would be fun. 
Kind of like the Wine Country (Napa) valley tours of the wineries, except for that you need a designated driver. 

Linda 







-----Original Message----- 
From: Steve Jacobson <jake7140 at yahoo.com> 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it) 










Ha! You thought it was a joke! 
http://www.cheesewheel450.com/ 
A friend of mine's kid set this up a number of years ago. We could always 
crash it! They would appreciate the roadsters. 

Steve 


Steve's Racing web site 

www.NoNameRacing.com 

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society 

www.elrss.com 

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net 
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote: 

Message: 5 
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400 
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again! 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
... 
Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing. 



Linda 
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net 

Datsun-roadsters mailing list 

http://www.team.net/archive 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 
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________________________________________ 
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From tom at datsun2000.com  Wed Sep 16 10:22:24 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 09:22:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGKEPFDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

Cheese is often associated with wine.... But, from what the real wine
connoisseurs tell me, cheese is really used to dampen the palet in order to
make poor tasting wines taste better.  If you are trying to awaken the
flavor of your wine, eat green apples as you enjoy your wine.

Driving Towncars occasionally has it's perks, including meeting writers for
magazines, including computers, wine, and automotive writers covering races
here in Portland.

Roadster content:  Now that I have the insurance companies behind me and not
taking up much of my free time after the Lexus was hit and totalled I am
beginning to work on the Bimmer that replaced it... at least temporarilly.
I am a little more than surprised and disappointed at the poor engineering
of the front-end components in the Bimmer.  That leaves me time to start
stripping the recently aquired parts car with the racing goodies on the
frame and begin to move them over to Mr. Hyde.  I was real happy to find a
comp sway bar under a pile of junk on the rear shelf.

If you can use a 70 RF fender let me know.  The fender on this car was NOS
when it was installed and is still in factory primer.  There are a couple of
pieces in the center front that were put on NOS at the same time.  There is
too much rust on the main body for me to keep it around, but the nearly NOS
parts do need to go to someone who can use them.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org


On 9/16/2009 4:09:54 AM, Tim (tputland at charter.net) wrote:
> We cruise to various Brew Pubs--The Grumpy Troll in Mt Horeb is always in
> the loop.
>
> Cheese is for the wine drinking fondue crowd.
>
> Tim
>
>
> ---- ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote:
>
> =============
> Cool. Any money goes to charity, so crash away..................They look
> like good sports!
> Wisconsin is known for cheese, right, so I thought cruising to different
> cheese factories would be fun.
> Kind of like the Wine Country (Napa) valley tours of the wineries, except
> for that you need a designated driver.
>
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Jacobson <jake7140 at yahoo.com>
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey,
> it's what Linda called it)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ha! You thought it was a joke!
> http://www.cheesewheel450.com/
> A friend of mine's
> kid set this up a number of years ago.  We could always
> crash it!  They would appreciate the roadsters.
>
> Steve
>
>
> Steve's Racing web site
>
> www.NoNameRacing.com

From hoonhkim at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 11:44:32 2009
From: hoonhkim at gmail.com (Hoon Kim)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 10:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] slightly OT: original paint colors for Japanese
	Fairlady Z s30?
Message-ID: <f8c3393e0909161044j23c1c0a5lcbf57cf9586b53ac@mail.gmail.com>

Hello wisdom of the internets,

a friend of mine is trying to track down the original paint colors for the
1969 Japanese only Fairlady Z s30. I'm not sure besides the left and right
hand drive if the colors were different from the American 240z?

Thanks!
Hoon

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 16 16:24:53 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 15:24:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot
Message-ID: <679187.93950.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

This 1600 should be painted yellow (its white) Its one thing after another. I drive the car a couple of miles then it dies. I have re routed the gas line from gas tank line that in the engine compartment to the carbs trying to prevent vapor lock. Carbs and gas line are cool. I installed a mechanical pump and a electric pump and blocked the return to the gas tank. Got me home. It seems to run hot but doesn't over heat. No "milkshake" oil. New plugs, condenser, points, rotor. Its missing the emissions pump but blocked off. It does have a lifter ticking sound, not a rod or main bearing knock. I replaced the gas cap with a original locking. Anyone got a idea to what is going on? Kind of funny as my gal bought it then saw a 1966 "Orange Burst" (google it) and I bought this fine "turd" She would have been very upset with this car. I got hers running great, figures. Any ideas? 

From reblues at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 17:06:17 2009
From: reblues at gmail.com (Richard Brown)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 19:06:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot
References: <679187.93950.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DFDF4A0206D6405697514DBBFE12FB58@ACER4230>

It seems I've heard that there are two different gas caps.  One is vented 
one is not.  Maybe you have the non vented and it is causing a vacuum in the 
tank.  Easy to test by pulling the gas cap and seeing if the problem 
continues.

Also the small screens in the banjo bolts going to the fuel bowls could be 
clogged.  That might cause fuel starvation at speed but let enough through 
at idle to fill the bowls.

Electrically, maybe the coil is overheating.  Do you have the ballast 
resistor in place?

Good Luck,
Richard Brown
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 6:24 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot


> This 1600 should be painted yellow (its white) Its one thing after 
> another. I drive the car a couple of miles then it dies. I have re routed 
> the gas line from gas tank line that in the engine compartment to the 
> carbs trying to prevent vapor lock. Carbs and gas line are cool. I 
> installed a mechanical pump and a electric pump and blocked the return to 
> the gas tank. Got me home. It seems to run hot but doesn't over heat. No 
> "milkshake" oil. New plugs, condenser, points, rotor. Its missing the 
> emissions pump but blocked off. It does have a lifter ticking sound, not a 
> rod or main bearing knock. I replaced the gas cap with a original locking. 
> Anyone got a idea to what is going on? Kind of funny as my gal bought it 
> then saw a 1966 "Orange Burst" (google it) and I bought this fine "turd" 
> She would have been very upset with this car. I got hers running great, 
> figures. Any ideas?
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep 16 17:08:15 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 19:08:15 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)
In-Reply-To: <8CC04F906216943-1880-39C9@webmail-m095.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BB4C77DD9A7A483BB6FF1DBF393C3FEA@delled48909442>

Here in New Jersey, we cruise to all of the local refineries and sample
different gasolines.

Dave Brisco

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
We cruise to various Brew Pubs--The Grumpy Troll in Mt Horeb is always in
the 
loop. 

Cheese is for the wine drinking fondue crowd.

Tim


---- ljordan704 at netscape.net wrote: 

=============
 Cool. Any money goes to charity, so crash away..................They look
like 
good sports!
Wisconsin is known for cheese, right, so I thought cruising to different
cheese 
factories would be fun. 
Kind of like the Wine Country (Napa) valley tours of the wineries, except
for 
that you need a designated driver.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Jacobson <jake7140 at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Cheese runs (hey, it's what Linda called it)










Ha! You thought it was a joke!
http://www.cheesewheel450.com/
A friend of mine's kid set this up a number of years ago.  We could always
crash it!  They would appreciate the roadsters.

Steve


Steve's Racing web site

  www.NoNameRacing.com

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society

  www.elrss.com

--- On Tue, 9/15/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:41:20 -0400
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Dairyland Datsuns Club--alive again!
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <8CC04321B1D2047-2EBC-1CBE4 at webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
...
Good luck with club. Any cheese runs planned? LOL, teasing.



Linda
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From davesmbox at aol.com  Wed Sep 16 17:27:18 2009
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 19:27:18 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot
In-Reply-To: <679187.93950.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <679187.93950.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC053C5E0C4057-1CAC-A84B@webmail-m092.sysops.aol.com>

Change the filter screens at the carb fuel inlets. I had the same problem on my 1600.

Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2009 6:24 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot




This 1600 should be painted yellow (its white) Its one thing after another. I 
drive the car a couple of miles then it dies. I have re routed the gas line from 
gas tank line that in the engine compartment to the carbs trying to prevent 
vapor lock. Carbs and gas line are cool. I installed a mechanical pump and a 
electric pump and blocked the return to the gas tank. Got me home. It seems to 
run hot but doesn't over heat. No "milkshake" oil. New plugs, condenser, points, 
rotor. Its missing the emissions pump but blocked off. It does have a lifter 
ticking sound, not a rod or main bearing knock. I replaced the gas cap with a 
original locking. Anyone got a idea to what is going on? Kind of funny as my gal 
bought it then saw a 1966 "Orange Burst" (google it) and I bought this fine 
"turd" She would have been very upset with this car. I got hers running great, 
figures. Any ideas? 
You are subscribed as davesmbox at aol.com

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From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Wed Sep 16 18:43:44 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 19:43:44 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot
In-Reply-To: <679187.93950.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <679187.93950.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AB18640.3060909@hornesystemstx.com>

I much rather troubleshoot a problem rather than shot gun it.

When I had problems like this while out of town I stopped at a local 
parts house and purchased a tee that fit the fuel line, some fuel line 
and a fuel pump/vacuum gauge. I first attached the gauge to a vacuum 
line and put the gauge on the outside of the windshield. Drove ff down 
the highway and when the engine started bogging down, compared the 
reading to what it was when the engine was running good. That did not 
show any difference, so I moved the gauge to the fuel line between the 
fuel pump and carbs. The fuel pressure dropped just before the engine 
bogged down. I next moved the gauge to the inlet to the fuel pump and 
headed off again. This time the gauge started to pull a vacuum before 
the the engine bogged down, telling me the problem was in the tank, or 
the line from the tank to the fuel pump. Turned out that a P.O. had 
added a fuel filter by the fuel tank and it was plugged. Replaced the 
filter and the problem went away.

Is your car a 66? The 70 and I think some of the 69 cars had emission 
control systems installed int he trunk. They needed a sealed gas cap, 
while the earlier ones are vented. If your car is really a 66 it should 
have a vented cap.

Hope that helps.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake David Boerst, On 9/16/2009 5:24 PM:
> This 1600 should be painted yellow (its white) Its one thing after another. I drive the car a couple of miles then it dies. I have re routed the gas line from gas tank line that in the engine compartment to the carbs trying to prevent vapor lock. Carbs and gas line are cool. I installed a mechanical pump and a electric pump and blocked the return to the gas tank. Got me home. It seems to run hot but doesn't over heat. No "milkshake" oil. New plugs, condenser, points, rotor. Its missing the emissions pump but blocked off. It does have a lifter ticking sound, not a rod or main bearing knock. I replaced the gas cap with a original locking. Anyone got a idea to what is going on? Kind of funny as my gal bought it then saw a 1966 "Orange Burst" (google it) and I bought this fine "turd" She would have been very upset with this car. I got hers running great, figures. Any ideas? 
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 16 20:20:32 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 19:20:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Gasoline and running hot
Message-ID: <563595.89948.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

First thank you ALL for your great responses! I didn't shoot the car as I am actually quite fond of it. Get tons of complements even sitting on the side of the road with the hood up. The car has never stranded me as I always got it running to get it home. 

I have been looking for my vacuum gauge for the past couple of days. That little wonder tool can tell so much about a engines condition. We had a house fire and I can not find anything (almost) I did clean the carb inlet screens. The guy I bought the car from said he had rebuilt the carbs so I assumed (ever see the Odd Couple when Felix explains ass-ume, makes a ass out of you and me) that the filters were at least cleaned. That wasn't the problem. I believe it is the gas line from the tank to the engine compartment and possibly the gasket did decompose as mentioned. The car died again and I blew out the line and now have incredible pressure. The fuel filter is full. Drove the best since I have owned it.

The car is a 1970 SPL311.

Whats the best way to clean the tank. It supposedly was but????

Thanks again for every ones help!
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 16 20:31:17 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 19:31:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission
Message-ID: <627304.97508.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I have a few 1600s and one of them I was contemplating shoehorning a Turbo 300ZX engine and a 5 speed. Anyone ever try that? I have had a few Austin Healey 100-4s, TR3s and TR4s with smallblock chevys. Even built a MGB with a 231 buick. Now time for a Nissan screamer.

My main 1600 that I have been posting about has a high rise cam (I was told that when I bought the car) and stainless headers. I have a few Datsun Zs and was wondering will any Z car 5 speeds bolt up to a 1600. I am quite ignorant when it comes to Nissan/Datsun cars. Used to be into British cars with American power. Want to experiment with Nissan/Datsun engine swaps. I also have a couple mid 80s Datsun pickups with the 4 banger with 8 plugs and 5 speeds. Are they worth while? Ideas?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 16 21:38:08 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 20:38:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission
In-Reply-To: <627304.97508.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <627304.97508.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <928581.92660.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

2 popular (and easier-to-make-fit-than-a-turbo-V6) engines to swap are the KA24 and SR20DE(T).  they're both 4 cylinder engines.  either engine represents a huge jump over
stock, and the SR20 can easily be built to 300+ HP.  it's lighter
than a V6, and easier to squeeze into the space.  there is someone who
put a chevy 4.3L 90 degree V6 in a roadster.  i think he's on the list, but i don't remember his name.  i've seen 13B's and an L28 inline 6 in one.  the V6 is a great idea though.  a dual exhaust could easily work by making holes in the X member on the other side.

BTW, British Leyland built an MGB GT with a 231 Buick in it.

in the end i guess what you could put into a roadster is limited only by your imagination and the balance in your checking account.

i hope you do it.  i'd love to see it when it's done.

s
675MIZU




________________________________
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:31:17 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission

I have a few 1600s and one of them I was contemplating shoehorning a Turbo 300ZX engine and a 5 speed. Anyone ever try that? I have had a few Austin Healey 100-4s, TR3s and TR4s with smallblock chevys. Even built a MGB with a 231 buick. Now time for a Nissan screamer.

My main 1600 that I have been posting about has a high rise cam (I was told that when I bought the car) and stainless headers. I have a few Datsun Zs and was wondering will any Z car 5 speeds bolt up to a 1600. I am quite ignorant when it comes to Nissan/Datsun cars. Used to be into British cars with American power. Want to experiment with Nissan/Datsun engine swaps. I also have a couple mid 80s Datsun pickups with the 4 banger with 8 plugs and 5 speeds. Are they worth while? Ideas?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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From dboerst at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 16 22:21:56 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:21:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed transmissions
Message-ID: <31569.82543.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I have been doing some research on installing a 5 speed manual in place of the original 4 speed manual. I have a couple Z24 truck engines but I have read there is a driver side tilt vs a passenger side tilt on the 1600 L- series. Is there a five speed transmission that will fit my 1970 1600 besides the L-series 2000?

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Wed Sep 16 22:56:30 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:56:30 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission
In-Reply-To: <928581.92660.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <627304.97508.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<928581.92660.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004801ca3753$3971e820$ac55b860$@net>

That would be Mark Sedlack: http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steven boortz
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:38 PM
To: David Boerst; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission

there is someone who put a chevy 4.3L 90 degree V6 in a roadster.  i think
he's on the list, but i don't remember his name.

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Thu Sep 17 00:07:58 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 23:07:58 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed transmissions
References: <31569.82543.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <21AD741F8CF64C94A0C3A3B0F08AF654@Daryl>

NONE of the L-series trannies bolt up! The easiest route to go is the 
Roadster 5 speed and associated parts, from the U20 engined cars.

An early/mid '80s Nissan diesel P/U transmission will bolt right up, But it 
will also probably require some 'massaging' of the frame at the X.  first 
gear would be pretty low tho. It is pretty much the same as the Z and other 
5 spds of the era, just a different front half on the tranny.

See this thread:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2749&hilit=5+speed

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com>


>I have been doing some research on installing a 5 speed manual in place of 
>the original 4 speed manual. I have a couple Z24 truck engines but I have 
>read there is a driver side tilt vs a passenger side tilt on the 1600 L- 
>series. Is there a five speed transmission that will fit my 1970 1600 
>besides the L-series 2000?

From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Thu Sep 17 07:49:05 2009
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 08:49:05 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission
In-Reply-To: <928581.92660.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <627304.97508.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<928581.92660.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000601ca379d$9ff5ce00$dfe16a00$@net>

I've always heard about the KA24 and SR20DE(T) swaps but never hear from
which model and year Nissan's the engines come from. Could someone provide
that information?

Thanks

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steven boortz
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 10:38 PM
To: David Boerst; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission

2 popular (and easier-to-make-fit-than-a-turbo-V6) engines to swap are the
KA24 and SR20DE(T).  they're both 4 cylinder engines.  either engine
represents a huge jump over
stock, and the SR20 can easily be built to 300+ HP.  it's lighter
than a V6, and easier to squeeze into the space.  there is someone who
put a chevy 4.3L 90 degree V6 in a roadster.  i think he's on the list, but
i don't remember his name.  i've seen 13B's and an L28 inline 6 in one.  the
V6 is a great idea though.  a dual exhaust could easily work by making holes
in the X member on the other side.

BTW, British Leyland built an MGB GT with a 231 Buick in it.

in the end i guess what you could put into a roadster is limited only by
your imagination and the balance in your checking account.

i hope you do it.  i'd love to see it when it's done.

s
675MIZU




________________________________
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:31:17 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission

I have a few 1600s and one of them I was contemplating shoehorning a Turbo
300ZX engine and a 5 speed. Anyone ever try that? I have had a few Austin
Healey 100-4s, TR3s and TR4s with smallblock chevys. Even built a MGB with a
231 buick. Now time for a Nissan screamer.

My main 1600 that I have been posting about has a high rise cam (I was told
that when I bought the car) and stainless headers. I have a few Datsun Zs
and was wondering will any Z car 5 speeds bolt up to a 1600. I am quite
ignorant when it comes to Nissan/Datsun cars. Used to be into British cars
with American power. Want to experiment with Nissan/Datsun engine swaps. I
also have a couple mid 80s Datsun pickups with the 4 banger with 8 plugs and
5 speeds. Are they worth while? Ideas?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 
You are subscribed as vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com

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You are subscribed as stebharvey at ameritech.net

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From granvillecomputing at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 17 09:29:48 2009
From: granvillecomputing at hotmail.com (peter harrison)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 08:29:48 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
Message-ID: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>

So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend w/Linda's
help -
need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive that?

Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it away
from exhaust - not looking for freebies

thx

peter

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 09:38:54 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 15:38:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] KA24 and SR20 donor vehicles (was "Re: Datsun 1600 and
 a 5 speed transmission")
In-Reply-To: <2084639359.2424821253201195950.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <314729156.2431931253201934871.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Should be in the Engine Swaps section on the 311s.org forums. I know there's a detailed SR20 swap how-to by Michael. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harvey" <stebharvey at ameritech.net> 
To: "steven boortz" <vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com>, "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com>, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:49:05 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun 1600 and a 5 speed transmission 

I've always heard about the KA24 and SR20DE(T) swaps but never hear from 
which model and year Nissan's the engines come from. Could someone provide 
that information? 

Thanks 

Steve 

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 17 10:09:51 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:09:51 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Remove valve cover, loosen rocker arms sufficiently to relieve lifter
tension at high cam lobe positions or remove rocker shaft / arm assembly &
push rods, After you pull the engine from the car, turn the engine upside
down then remove:

oil pan (optional, but is a good idea for guiding the cam in and out), fan
belt, crank pulley/damper, timing cover, timing chain, cam gear, cam gear
retainer, ........then extract the cam. That's the BASIC info. Go thru those
steps, and you'll learn the smaller, intermediate things as you go.

Disclaimer:  ..... I might have forgotten other important items, but that's
the general idea. I think there is more info in the service publications.
Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
To: "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:29 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam


> So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend
w/Linda's
> help -
> need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive
that?
>
> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it
away
> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
>
> thx
>
> peter

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 10:24:01 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:24:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <72187027.2452401253204439709.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <415216491.2454031253204641714.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Cleaning the cam? Don't remember that in the maintenance schedule. <g> 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com> 
To: "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:29:48 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam 

So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend w/Linda's 
help - 

need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may achieve that? 

Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it away 
from exhaust - not looking for freebies 

thx 

peter 

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Thu Sep 17 10:44:29 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:44:29 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
Message-ID: <4AB2676D.2030705@hornesystemstx.com>

If you are trying to remove the cam in the car, try removing the rocker 
shaft and push rods. Then use some magnetic pickup tools to hold each 
lifter as far up as they will go so that they clear the cam lobes. 
Install the tools and rotate the cam, watching the magnets ride one by 
one. When the magnet reaches its highest point try to pull it up a 
little more, then block the magnet in place. Do this for all listers. 
Adding some lithium grease might also help hold the lifters up.

Remove the radiator, lower pulley, timing chain cover and cam timing 
gear. Be sure to note position of cam shaft to crank for reassembly. Am 
I mistaking, but doesn't the distributor drive gear also need to be 
removed? Rotate the cam at least one turn again to be sure that the 
magnets are holding the lifters out of the way. Remove the cam retainer 
and work the cam out the front. You may have to remove the grill, I 
can't remember.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake MH, On 9/17/2009 11:09 AM:
> Remove valve cover, loosen rocker arms sufficiently to relieve lifter
> tension at high cam lobe positions or remove rocker shaft / arm assembly &
> push rods, After you pull the engine from the car, turn the engine upside
> down then remove:
>
> oil pan (optional, but is a good idea for guiding the cam in and out), fan
> belt, crank pulley/damper, timing cover, timing chain, cam gear, cam gear
> retainer, ........then extract the cam. That's the BASIC info. Go thru those
> steps, and you'll learn the smaller, intermediate things as you go.
>
> Disclaimer:  ..... I might have forgotten other important items, but that's
> the general idea. I think there is more info in the service publications.
> Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
> To: "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:29 AM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
>
>   
>> So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend
>>     
> w/Linda's
>   
>> help -
>> need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive
>>     
> that?
>   
>> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it
>>     
> away
>   
>> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
>>
>> thx
>>
>> peter
>>     
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From RacerY at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 11:04:23 2009
From: RacerY at comcast.net (Toby B)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:04:23 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] transmissions
Message-ID: <1a8733b20909171004j3406372foc5f7d4cfb1bd938a@mail.gmail.com>

"My main 1600 that I have been posting about has a high rise cam (I
was told that when I bought the car) and stainless headers. I have a
few Datsun Zs and was wondering will any Z car 5 speeds bolt up to a
1600."

Nope, different pattern.

The U20 5- speed will, but it leaves you with a very tall 1st gear.
Great for higher speeds, not so good in town.

Toby

From slowboy at cox.net  Thu Sep 17 11:05:58 2009
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:05:58 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
Message-ID: <8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>

Why do we turn the engine upside down to get the cam out?????




-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MH
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:10 AM
To: peter harrison; datsun
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing the cam

Remove valve cover, loosen rocker arms sufficiently to relieve lifter
tension at high cam lobe positions or remove rocker shaft / arm assembly &
push rods, After you pull the engine from the car, turn the engine upside
down then remove:

oil pan (optional, but is a good idea for guiding the cam in and out), fan
belt, crank pulley/damper, timing cover, timing chain, cam gear, cam gear
retainer, ........then extract the cam. That's the BASIC info. Go thru those
steps, and you'll learn the smaller, intermediate things as you go.

Disclaimer:  ..... I might have forgotten other important items, but that's
the general idea. I think there is more info in the service publications.
Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
To: "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:29 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam


> So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend
w/Linda's
> help -
> need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive
that?
>
> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it
away
> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
>
> thx
>
> peter

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Thu Sep 17 11:23:01 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:23:01 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
	<8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>
Message-ID: <4AB27075.5000401@hornesystemstx.com>

It keeps the lifters from falling out unless you have them restrained 
otherwise.

Thusly spake SlowBoy, On 9/17/2009 12:05 PM:
> Why do we turn the engine upside down to get the cam out?????
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MH
> Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:10 AM
> To: peter harrison; datsun
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
> Remove valve cover, loosen rocker arms sufficiently to relieve lifter
> tension at high cam lobe positions or remove rocker shaft / arm assembly &
> push rods, After you pull the engine from the car, turn the engine upside
> down then remove:
>
> oil pan (optional, but is a good idea for guiding the cam in and out), fan
> belt, crank pulley/damper, timing cover, timing chain, cam gear, cam gear
> retainer, ........then extract the cam. That's the BASIC info. Go thru those
> steps, and you'll learn the smaller, intermediate things as you go.
>
> Disclaimer:  ..... I might have forgotten other important items, but that's
> the general idea. I think there is more info in the service publications.
> Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
> To: "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:29 AM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
>
>   
>> So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend
>>     
> w/Linda's
>   
>> help -
>> need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive
>>     
> that?
>   
>> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it
>>     
> away
>   
>> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
>>
>> thx
>>
>> peter
>>     
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Thu Sep 17 11:29:00 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:29:00 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] KA24 swap notes
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F84510306EB1B@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

Since I saw (and still see) this as one of my future prospects, I have
collected over the years the notes on potential engines to select (from
Andy Cost, thank you very much) and responses as to performance and such
from the list as well as "what I like about the swap" message exchanges
with various folks.

It is rather long, and several have already received it, so I won't
clutter up everyone's Inbox.  Let me know who would like the info, and
I'll send it along in a mass mailing.  (yep, a lot of it may be
available on 311s.org, I'll see if Steve wants to post it as well)

Fergus O

From RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM  Thu Sep 17 11:38:36 2009
From: RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM (Schlegel, Richard)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:38:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed...
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6745.1253207068.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6745.1253207068.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC5E0CCC5@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>

I read somewhere that a 280Z 5 speed will bolt right up. Is this true? Should
be a lot of those laying around.
Take Care,
Rich & Kelly
'68 1600
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/IAmRockinRich
Member of the SoCalROC | http://www.SoCalROC.org
Some Roadster Videos | http://www.youtube.com/IAmRockinRich

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:21:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed transmissions
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <31569.82543.qm at web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I have been doing some research on installing a 5 speed manual in place of the
original 4 speed manual. I have a couple Z24 truck engines but I have read
there is a driver side tilt vs a passenger side tilt on the 1600 L- series. Is
there a five speed transmission that will fit my 1970 1600 besides the
L-series 2000?

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 11:48:17 2009
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:48:17 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
	<8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>
Message-ID: <b0b0059f0909171048k290d4530pd8c3bbd7ef2bd0be@mail.gmail.com>

Bigger question... Why does the cam need cleaned?

On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 10:05 AM, SlowBoy <slowboy at cox.net> wrote:

> Why do we turn the engine upside down to get the cam out?????
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MH
> Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:10 AM
> To: peter harrison; datsun
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
> Remove valve cover, loosen rocker arms sufficiently to relieve lifter
> tension at high cam lobe positions or remove rocker shaft / arm assembly &
> push rods, After you pull the engine from the car, turn the engine upside
> down then remove:
>
> oil pan (optional, but is a good idea for guiding the cam in and out), fan
> belt, crank pulley/damper, timing cover, timing chain, cam gear, cam gear
> retainer, ........then extract the cam. That's the BASIC info. Go thru
> those
> steps, and you'll learn the smaller, intermediate things as you go.
>
> Disclaimer:  ..... I might have forgotten other important items, but that's
> the general idea. I think there is more info in the service publications.
> Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "peter harrison" <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
> To: "datsun" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:29 AM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
>
> > So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend
> w/Linda's
> > help -
> > need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive
> that?
> >
> > Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it
> away
> > from exhaust - not looking for freebies
> >
> > thx
> >
> > peter
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>  You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.

From mkiisupra at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 17 12:29:23 2009
From: mkiisupra at hotmail.com (Eric Gillis)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:29:23 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters]  Lifter noise, oil, and ZDDP additives
In-Reply-To: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <617437.22451.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL116-W36B67C97C7D1EC35109C13ACE10@phx.gbl>

Well David's posting filled the bandwidth for a couple of days.  That reminded
me of a conversation I had with someone up in Shasta this summer.  I was told
to put diesel oil in the car (with new rebuild) to address the issue of flat
tappet damage.  This original post got me to a searchin the 'net for
information about the lack of ZPPD in modern oils.  As others have suggested,
do a search to see how others with older engines are dealing with this issue.



Several sites suggested using specific oils, making blends (same weight) with
oils containing ZPPD, etc. I had just finished the first oil change since
rebuild of my R16 and wanted to address the issue proactively and looked for
an additive to put in the new oil in the crankcase.  I used Lucas Break-In
with TB Zinc Plus to top off the fill.



When searching I found that the lack of ZPPD was more of a concern for new
cams/tappets as they haven't gone through several heat/wear cycles and may be
harmed with oils lacking ZPPD (according to conventional/majority wisdom).  At
$15 a bottle and a smell that makes gear oil smell like roses, I tried it.  My
rebuild used the same cam and may have new tappets, I have to check.  Just
wanted to report what I did, I felt using diesel-designed oils (as did many
others with older engines) may add other additives that may not be compatible
with a gas engine (no evidence here, just a 'hunch').  Synthetics are pricey,
to say the least.



On a side note, one Mustang board had a question about a 69 240z (LHD) and
whether it was worth it to restore, only needed an interior and paint.  The
messages suggested that it wasn't special and should have a V8 put in to it.
Sigh, maybe I should put up a post of how a 65 350GT Shelby looks and works
better with a RB26dett (a la Tokyo Drift) ;)



Eric G

> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:22:54 -0700
> From: dboerst at yahoo.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Lifter noise
>
> Are the lifters on the 1600 Mechanical or Hydraulic? The engine makes a
fairly loud tick-tick-tick. Not a main or rod bearing thud type sound. has
great oil pressure but seems to run a little hot. I live in Arizona so....
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mkiisupra at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MH
EINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 12:46:35 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:46:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed...
In-Reply-To: <7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC5E0CCC5@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>
Message-ID: <651807069.2525951253213195789.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Not true. The -ONLY- 5-speed that will bolt up to a roadster R16 (1600) or U20 (2000) engine is the 5-speed that came with the 2000. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Schlegel" <RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM> 
To: "datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:38:36 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 5 speed... 

I read somewhere that a 280Z 5 speed will bolt right up. Is this true? Should 
be a lot of those laying around. 
Take Care, 
Rich & Kelly 
'68 1600 

---------------------------------------------------------------------- 

Message: 1 
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:21:56 -0700 (PDT) 
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com> 
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed transmissions 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Message-ID: <31569.82543.qm at web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii 

I have been doing some research on installing a 5 speed manual in place of the 
original 4 speed manual. I have a couple Z24 truck engines but I have read 
there is a driver side tilt vs a passenger side tilt on the 1600 L- series. Is 
there a five speed transmission that will fit my 1970 1600 besides the 
L-series 2000? 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

Datsun-roadsters mailing list 

http://www.team.net/archive 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From chalsted at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 12:49:31 2009
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:49:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] nice 2000 wanted
Message-ID: <2095930542.3932481253213371210.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have someone looking for a really nice 2000, if you have one for sale or know someone who does please contact me offlist 

Thanks- 

Craig 

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 13:17:52 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:17:52 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed...
In-Reply-To: <7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC5E0CCC5@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>
References: <mailman.6745.1253207068.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
	<7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC5E0CCC5@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80909171217o3b2f42b7q385db6b1176bb26d@mail.gmail.com>

Won't work. The L-6 Zs and the L-4 510, 610, etc, all have a common
configuration and bolt pattern, but it's different than the U-20/R-16 found
on the roadsters.

Back in the day Datsun the 240Z 4 speeds had a seperate bell housing which
could be used with the roadster 5-speed main and tail cases to put a
roadster 5 speed in the 240Z and 510. They also offered shortened drive
shafts and rear tranny mounts for both cars. Once they started selling
Z-Cars (and trucks) with 5-speeds that need went away.
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 12:38 PM, Schlegel, Richard <RSCHLEGEL at ocsd.com>wrote:

> I read somewhere that a 280Z 5 speed will bolt right up. Is this true?
> Should
> be a lot of those laying around.
> Take Care,
> Rich & Kelly
> '68 1600

From az589 at lafn.org  Thu Sep 17 13:41:38 2009
From: az589 at lafn.org (Stan Chernoff)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:41:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<00ae01ca37b1$49ea4770$6400a8c0@LAP120>
	<8A99EA4A718246D0B02E60B31E14FC00@M7170N>
Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20090917123936.044b3508@lafn.org>

It's an anti-gravity thing.  Well it just lets gravity get things out 
of the cams way.

Stan
========

At 10:05 AM 9/17/2009, SlowBoy wrote:
>Why do we turn the engine upside down to get the cam out?????

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Thu Sep 17 13:53:58 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 15:53:58 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed...
In-Reply-To: <651807069.2525951253213195789.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC5E0CCC5@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>
	<651807069.2525951253213195789.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01ca37d0$99c5e910$cd51bb30$@net>

  Don't forget the mid-close and ultra-close NISMO 5 speeds!

  No transmissions from a later Datsun/Nissan will 'bolt on' a R16 or U20.
The automatic 3 speed from a RL411 will bolt on and make your roadster
slower,  Rumor has it the RL411 has a close ratio 4 speed, but I've never
found one.

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Peters
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 2:47 PM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 5 speed...

Not true. The -ONLY- 5-speed that will bolt up to a roadster R16 (1600) or
U20 (2000) engine is the 5-speed that came with the 2000. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Schlegel" <RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM> 
To: "datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:38:36 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 5 speed... 

I read somewhere that a 280Z 5 speed will bolt right up. Is this true?
Should 
be a lot of those laying around. 
Take Care, 
Rich & Kelly 
'68 1600 

---------------------------------------------------------------------- 

Message: 1 
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:21:56 -0700 (PDT) 
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com> 
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed transmissions 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Message-ID: <31569.82543.qm at web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii 

I have been doing some research on installing a 5 speed manual in place of
the 
original 4 speed manual. I have a couple Z24 truck engines but I have read 
there is a driver side tilt vs a passenger side tilt on the 1600 L- series.
Is 
there a five speed transmission that will fit my 1970 1600 besides the 
L-series 2000? 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

Datsun-roadsters mailing list 

http://www.team.net/archive 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 
You are subscribed as 9laser3 at bright.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Thu Sep 17 14:46:21 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 13:46:21 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Automatics (was: 5 speed)
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca37d0$99c5e910$cd51bb30$@net>
References: <651807069.2525951253213195789.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AB23DAD.16210.64320A2@localhost>

> The automatic 3 speed from a RL411 will bolt on and make your
> roadster slower...

Before anyone gets excited, the RL411 slushbox won't fit. It's
wider than the manual boxes.

And yes, there are a few automatic Roadsters out there, but
that's a whole 'nother discussion...

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Thu Sep 17 14:56:09 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 13:56:09 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 5 speed...
References: <7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC5E0CCC5@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>
	<651807069.2525951253213195789.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<000c01ca37d0$99c5e910$cd51bb30$@net>
Message-ID: <F8BB17FCEBCF47588781200E5EE6B9DE@Daryl>

> > No transmissions from a later Datsun/Nissan will 'bolt on' a R16 or 
> > U20.<<
Not true. The diesel p/u 5 spd of the early mid '80s will also bolt right up 
to the engine. Clearance at the frame is a problem tho. The front half of 
this transmission can be taken off and bolted to many of the earlier and 
later 5 spds used by Nissan.
I am currently running one of these front halfs (slight modifications) with 
a '92 240SX 5spd guts and back half, on my 1800cc R series stroker with a 
.833 5th gear.
It's a bunch more work than a U20  5 spd, but doable and makes rebuilds and 
parts much easier.
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2749&hilit=5+speed

The 5 spd from the roadster is a 'close ratio' transmission. I don't know 
how 'exclusive' the guts of this transmission are, but you may be able to 
fit gears in from a later transmission to make it a wider ratio, and lower 
that first gear.......
OR maybe put in a higher 5th (.833 or .810 or ?) so that you have a more 
reasonable cruising rpm when you run a 4.11 or higher rear diff 
ratio.........Anyone know if this is possible?

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul" <9laser3 at bright.net>


>  Don't forget the mid-close and ultra-close NISMO 5 speeds!
>
>  No transmissions from a later Datsun/Nissan will 'bolt on' a R16 or U20.
> The automatic 3 speed from a RL411 will bolt on and make your roadster
> slower,  Rumor has it the RL411 has a close ratio 4 speed, but I've never
> found one.
>
> Paul
> Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Peters
>
> Not true. The -ONLY- 5-speed that will bolt up to a roadster R16 (1600) or
> U20 (2000) engine is the 5-speed that came with the 2000.
>
> Pete
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Richard Schlegel" <RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM>
>
> I read somewhere that a 280Z 5 speed will bolt right up. Is this true?
> Should
> be a lot of those laying around.
> Take Care,
> Rich & Kelly
> '68 1600

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 17 16:14:14 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:14:14 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] transmissions
References: <1a8733b20909171004j3406372foc5f7d4cfb1bd938a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01bd01ca37e4$30f53d50$6400a8c0@LAP120>

"> The U20 5- speed will, but it leaves you with a very tall 1st gear.
Great for higher speeds, not so good in town".

Really?......... I guess I better put my 4-speed back in and give the
5-speed away......who wants it?  LOL!

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Toby B" <RacerY at comcast.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 12:04 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] transmissions


> "My main 1600 that I have been posting about has a high rise cam (I
> was told that when I bought the car) and stainless headers. I have a
> few Datsun Zs and was wondering will any Z car 5 speeds bolt up to a
> 1600."
>
> Nope, different pattern.
>
> The U20 5- speed will, but it leaves you with a very tall 1st gear.
> Great for higher speeds, not so good in town.
>
> Toby
> ________________________________________

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Thu Sep 17 16:46:04 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] transmissions
In-Reply-To: <01bd01ca37e4$30f53d50$6400a8c0@LAP120>
References: <1a8733b20909171004j3406372foc5f7d4cfb1bd938a@mail.gmail.com>
	<01bd01ca37e4$30f53d50$6400a8c0@LAP120>
Message-ID: <001501ca37e8$a46b0d60$ed412820$@net>

  Try the 3.90 ring & pinion from the 1600 with the 5 speed.  Makes a great
set up for around town.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MH
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:14 PM
To: Toby B; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] transmissions

"> The U20 5- speed will, but it leaves you with a very tall 1st gear.
Great for higher speeds, not so good in town".

Really?......... I guess I better put my 4-speed back in and give the
5-speed away......who wants it?  LOL!

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Toby B" <RacerY at comcast.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 12:04 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] transmissions


> "My main 1600 that I have been posting about has a high rise cam (I
> was told that when I bought the car) and stainless headers. I have a
> few Datsun Zs and was wondering will any Z car 5 speeds bolt up to a
> 1600."
>
> Nope, different pattern.
>
> The U20 5- speed will, but it leaves you with a very tall 1st gear.
> Great for higher speeds, not so good in town.
>
> Toby
> ________________________________________
You are subscribed as 9laser3 at bright.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Thu Sep 17 16:51:21 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:51:21 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC060082C821BC-1F28-87C9@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>

 So to explain a bit, Peter's engine came back from the machinist and he needs to blow out and clean out any debris from the machining work. How is the best way to do that? The head is separated from the block, no oilpan on and everything has been hot tanked but still the machinist recommends a final "cleaning' before reassembly. Does the cam need to come out to do that?

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: peter harrison <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
To: datsun <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 8:29 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam










So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend w/Linda's
help -
need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive that?

Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it away
from exhaust - not looking for freebies

thx

peter
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From dboerst at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 17 17:21:31 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:21:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Sorry if I posted too much
Message-ID: <900066.40719.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the responses!

David
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From reblues at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 17:39:37 2009
From: reblues at gmail.com (Richard Brown)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 19:39:37 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<8CC060082C821BC-1F28-87C9@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C221DB3B19F74688A5F4EFF271815164@ACER4230>

The machinist that I trust the most always recommended washing everything 
down with hot soapy water, blowing out/off with air, then oiling.  That is 
to get rid of the metallic dust that settles while the parts are sitting in 
the shop after coming out of the cleaner.

Richard Brown

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ljordan704 at netscape.net>
To: <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing the cam


> So to explain a bit, Peter's engine came back from the machinist and he 
> needs to blow out and clean out any debris from the machining work. How is 
> the best way to do that? The head is separated from the block, no oilpan 
> on and everything has been hot tanked but still the machinist recommends a 
> final "cleaning' before reassembly. Does the cam need to come out to do 
> that?
>
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: peter harrison <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
> To: datsun <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 8:29 am
> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend 
> w/Linda's
> help -
> need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive 
> that?
>
> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it 
> away
> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
>
> thx
>
> peter
> You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Thu Sep 17 17:43:37 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:43:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC060082C821BC-1F28-87C9@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AB26739.16300.6E59BE9@localhost>

>  So to explain a bit, Peter's engine came back from the machinist
> and he needs to blow out and clean out any debris from the machining
> work.

Hmmmm.... this seems a bit odd....

If there's any residue that needs blowing out, then the block/crank/cam
isn't ready to be bolted together - trying to blow out the oil passages
with parts installed will not lead to happy results. So the cam shouldn't
have been installed until the block was clean and ready to go.

If there's any any any doubt that there's any trace of grunge, it
all needs to come apart. That involves pulling the crank (which may
mean replacing the rear main seal). Also note that the cam bearings
better be slathered in pre-lube (typically a white creamy goo). All of
the bearings should be pre-lubed.

Other notes: The archives reference popping a plug at the end of
the oil gallery to allow thorough cleaning on the passage, and tapping
the hole and plugging it when done. Sorry, I can't be more specific
offhand.

And when removing or installing the cam (or jackshaft for 2L fans), be
very VERY careful when sliding the 'stick in to not bump and nick any
of the cam bearings that are pressed into the block. Any nick and you
better replace the insert while you can.

My thoughts. Others may differ...

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Thu Sep 17 17:51:41 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:51:41 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC060082C821BC-1F28-87C9@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT106-W7CCD5C03646C2FE086C0DDFE10@phx.gbl>
	<8CC060082C821BC-1F28-87C9@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AB2CB8D.7010408@hornesystemstx.com>

You can start with a solvent using galley brushes for all openings. Pull 
the plug on the back of the engine that plugs the oil galley and clean 
it real good.

Blow out the passages and repeat until you don't get any more crud out.

Next switch to a water based cleaner like Simple Green and the galley 
brushes and repeat until clean. Others may have a better cleaner, but 
this has worked for me.

After all the galleys are clean, including the water jacket, clean the 
bottom end the same way, then plug all the holes and clean the exterior 
the same way.

That should do it, lots of solvent, air water based cleaner and more air.

Peace,
Pat


Thusly spake ljordan704 at netscape.net, On 9/17/2009 5:51 PM:
>  So to explain a bit, Peter's engine came back from the machinist and he needs to blow out and clean out any debris from the machining work. How is the best way to do that? The head is separated from the block, no oilpan on and everything has been hot tanked but still the machinist recommends a final "cleaning' before reassembly. Does the cam need to come out to do that?
>
> Linda
>
>
>  
>
>
>  
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: peter harrison <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
> To: datsun <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 8:29 am
> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> So starting to reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in last weekend w/Linda's
> help -
> need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I may acheive that?
>
> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator - want to move it away
> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
>
> thx
>
> peter
> You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Thu Sep 17 18:13:31 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:13:31 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Sorry if I posted too much
In-Reply-To: <900066.40719.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <900066.40719.qm@web58606.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC060BFCF81882-1F28-94A1@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>

 No you didn't
Linda


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 4:21 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] Sorry if I posted too much










Thanks for all the responses!

David

From granvillecomputing at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 17 18:19:39 2009
From: granvillecomputing at hotmail.com (peter harrison)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:19:39 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the Cam
Message-ID: <SNT106-W25BCDCC8EB9DA7F756CBA1DFE00@phx.gbl>

I guess I am not being clear - the engine is COMPLETELY disassembled EXCEPT
for the cam being still in the block. How do i get the cam OUT. There appear
to be freeze plug thingies holding it in.

Thx

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Thu Sep 17 19:02:54 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 21:02:54 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the Cam
Message-ID: <c4e.5989741e.37e4363e@aol.com>

Remove the retainer and slide it out of the front. There should be two  
bolts holding the retainer. If the sprocket is in place they might be  hidden.
 
keith
 
 
In a message dated 9/17/2009 5:46:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
granvillecomputing at hotmail.com writes:

I guess  I am not being clear - the engine is COMPLETELY disassembled EXCEPT
for the  cam being still in the block. How do i get the cam OUT. There 
appear
to be  freeze plug thingies holding it  in.

Thx
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From girault at bellsouth.net  Thu Sep 17 20:37:12 2009
From: girault at bellsouth.net (Girault Jones)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 21:37:12 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] carburetor question
Message-ID: <83B66F51-0C7E-43EF-8EB6-9AE5A491ED5C@bellsouth.net>

My 1970 SPL311 has got a solenoid valve mounted on the intake manifold  
between the two SU's.  When current is applied it allows gas/ air  
mixture to pass between the manifold and ports located just upstream  
of each throttle valve.  Can some one tell me its purpose and when it  
is supposed to be activated?    Thanks, Girault

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Thu Sep 17 22:02:31 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Andy Cost)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 23:02:31 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] KA24 swap notes
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F84510306EB1B@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <DBD2C2685AD8405DBD3180545A064E3B@pentd>

I have new data to add.

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
Fergus P (AS)
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 12:29 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] KA24 swap notes

Since I saw (and still see) this as one of my future prospects, I have
collected over the years the notes on potential engines to select (from
Andy Cost, thank you very much) and responses as to performance and such
from the list as well as "what I like about the swap" message exchanges
with various folks.

It is rather long, and several have already received it, so I won't
clutter up everyone's Inbox.  Let me know who would like the info, and
I'll send it along in a mass mailing.  (yep, a lot of it may be
available on 311s.org, I'll see if Steve wants to post it as well)

Fergus O
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From howard at everythingchristmas.com.au  Fri Sep 18 00:58:06 2009
From: howard at everythingchristmas.com.au (Howard @ Everything Christmas)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 16:58:06 +1000
Subject: [Roadsters] Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley
Message-ID: <32E67D4595A14318A96DB0ABFB08F88B@DesktopFromT>

Hi All,

Does anyone know where I can purchase a Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley.
Preferably not for a Kings Randsom

I need to slow down the water pump to try and get my engine cooler on a Solex
Equipped U20 engine on my Race Car.
I am already using a 4 core radiator and ducting to direct the air straight
into the radiator. I need to pull the water temp back 20 degrees c or so. and
this is one step.

I know one is made for the SR20, but is there anything around for the U20 ?

I installed one that I think came from the Z family that was slightly larger,
but I would like to try and extra step to something like an 8" diameter as the
engine mainly runs 4000 to 7500 for circuit racing , up to 60 mile events.

Oh, it is a highly developed race only engine professionally built by a race
engine specialist.

Regards,

Howard, Datsun 2000 Solex 3 of them: one race one road(nearly) and one wreck.

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Fri Sep 18 04:47:53 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Andy Cost)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 05:47:53 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley
In-Reply-To: <32E67D4595A14318A96DB0ABFB08F88B@DesktopFromT>
Message-ID: <DF8B930717DC4E27BBA528D8D0B9BDC5@pentd>

I got a pulley off a Chevy 350 from the junk yard.  It worked fine except
the center hole was not big enough to fit on the roadster shaft.  It was
easy to drill out.

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Howard @
Everything Christmas
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 1:58 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley

Hi All,

Does anyone know where I can purchase a Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley.
Preferably not for a Kings Randsom

I need to slow down the water pump to try and get my engine cooler on a
Solex
Equipped U20 engine on my Race Car.
I am already using a 4 core radiator and ducting to direct the air straight
into the radiator. I need to pull the water temp back 20 degrees c or so.
and
this is one step.

I know one is made for the SR20, but is there anything around for the U20 ?

I installed one that I think came from the Z family that was slightly
larger,
but I would like to try and extra step to something like an 8" diameter as
the
engine mainly runs 4000 to 7500 for circuit racing , up to 60 mile events.

Oh, it is a highly developed race only engine professionally built by a race
engine specialist.

Regards,

Howard, Datsun 2000 Solex 3 of them: one race one road(nearly) and one
wreck.
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From tputland at charter.net  Fri Sep 18 05:57:05 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 4:57:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
Message-ID: <20090918075705.QWEDM.5266148.root@mp08>

Is there a Nissan part number for the fuel pump rebuild kit?

Thanks

From tputland at charter.net  Fri Sep 18 06:40:22 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 5:40:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
In-Reply-To: <20090918075705.QWEDM.5266148.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <20090918084023.6N5ZB.5267929.root@mp08>

I know I can get if from a vendor and plan on doing that. 

But, I like to try to order parts directly from Nissan so Nissan North America see that the demand is there.




---- Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote: 

=============
Is there a Nissan part number for the fuel pump rebuild kit?

Thanks
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From az589 at lafn.org  Fri Sep 18 06:42:24 2009
From: az589 at lafn.org (Stan Chernoff)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 05:42:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
In-Reply-To: <20090918075705.QWEDM.5266148.root@mp08>
References: <20090918075705.QWEDM.5266148.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20090918054029.044bb428@lafn.org>

Nissan part number for fuel pump repair kit is 00310-51500

Stan
==========

At 04:57 AM 9/18/2009, Tim wrote:
>Is there a Nissan part number for the fuel pump rebuild kit?
>
>Thanks
>________________________________________

From rpmartinez9205 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 18 07:59:45 2009
From: rpmartinez9205 at yahoo.com (Robert Martinez)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 06:59:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
Message-ID: <179620.75549.qm@web33703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For you 510 fans.
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/09/17/one-77-year-old-owner-1972-datsun-510/

From stevenehlers at charter.net  Fri Sep 18 08:09:37 2009
From: stevenehlers at charter.net (Steve Ehlers)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 09:09:37 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
Message-ID: <4AB394A1.7020102@charter.net>

Linda and Pete ,
 A machine shop that Hot Tanked a block without advising you to get new 
cam bearings installed ,after also doing machine work (  I suppose boring )
is doing you a dis-service ,I would suggest .Can't believe anybody that 
should know better wouldn't tell you .In Rebuilding an engine ,replacing 
Cam bearings is
a Normal part  of the Re-Build .How can you clean a block completely 
with it installed ?You can't!And why would you not try to do this ,The 
machine shop should have spelled out to you ,in my opinion .

 The best ways to clean a block ,and I have been doing this for over 35 
years ,is to use a Local car wash sprayer with the main caps removed and 
flushing ALL
oiling holes ,coolant holes ,freeze plug holes and of course ,everywhere 
else .You need compressed air to blow out to dry Immediately after doing 
this and oil up the bores to keep from rusting .A complete spray down 
with something like Carb cleaner and reapplication of oil to all bores 
,Crank saddles and machined surfaces.Wrap in a trash bag till painted 
and assembled/assembled.Use link free clothes/ towels for wiping down 
and cleaning for painting .
Good luck !
Steve Ehlers

Rising Sun Performance Inc.
Fort Worth ,Texas
"Home of the Oldest Z car Shop in Texas " still in business .

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Fri Sep 18 08:33:01 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:33:01 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
Message-ID: <8CC06840F6E4730-4A3C-1D40D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks all for the really good info on cleaning the engine after machining. So it appears that none of the soaps? would harm the bores? I wondered about anything too acidic, "etching" the surfaces. 
Oiling after cleaning I assume is regular oil. 
Then once assembly begins the "assembly lube" is used. What is recommended for that?
thanks,
Linda

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Fri Sep 18 08:57:04 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 09:57:04 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC06840F6E4730-4A3C-1D40D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC06840F6E4730-4A3C-1D40D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AB39FC0.60900@hornesystemstx.com>

I use white lithium grease. I believe it is generically called 
Luberplate. It comes in a very large toothpase looking tube

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake ljordan704 at netscape.net, On 9/18/2009 9:33 AM:
> Thanks all for the really good info on cleaning the engine after machining. So it appears that none of the soaps? would harm the bores? I wondered about anything too acidic, "etching" the surfaces. 
> Oiling after cleaning I assume is regular oil. 
> Then once assembly begins the "assembly lube" is used. What is recommended for that?
> thanks,
> Linda
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 09:44:57 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:44:57 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC06840F6E4730-4A3C-1D40D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC06840F6E4730-4A3C-1D40D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca3876$fa462d80$eed28880$@net>

Just use regular motor oil for oiling the bores. Don't use assembly lube on
the bores, pistons or rings. Some builders recommend dipping the whole
piston/ring assembly in oil before installing but I think that's overkill
and puts too much oil into the combustion chamber. I just smear a lot of oil
on the outer surface of the pistons just before assembly.

All other surfaces should be coated with assembly lube. Lubriplate is good.
Personally I use Redline's assembly lube. I use it on pretty much every
moving part including gears and chains. Don't forget to use some on the
sides of the connecting rod big ends.

When I add the motor oil just before startup, I pour one quart all over the
cam and rockers, and pour another quart directly over the upper timing chain
(U20) before adding the rest of the oil. Then I spin up the oil pump with a
drill to fill the oil passages so the motor will have oil pressure pretty
much immediately on startup.

This all may seem like overkill to some, but it's easy to do and why take
chances? The key to a good engine rebuild is attention to detail.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ljordan704 at netscape.net
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 7:33 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam

Thanks all for the really good info on cleaning the engine after machining.
So it appears that none of the soaps? would harm the bores? I wondered about
anything too acidic, "etching" the surfaces. 
Oiling after cleaning I assume is regular oil. 
Then once assembly begins the "assembly lube" is used. What is recommended
for that?
thanks,
Linda
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 10:25:40 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 16:25:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <1119910055.2892151253290500192.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Linda and Peter, 

There's been a lot of discussion about removing the cam, cleaning the block, and reassembly, but one thing is not clear, at least to me: 

Has the machine work already been done, or is removing the cam the last bit of disassembly before having machine work done? 

Pete 

From timbob_fisher at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 18 10:26:37 2009
From: timbob_fisher at yahoo.com (tim fisher)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 09:26:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC060082C821BC-1F28-87C9@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <225931.42669.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 I was confused when I saw someone wanting to clean his cam.....After the last
couple of emails, I'm glad to see we have some very smart car people out
there, so lot's of good advice.  I can't believe a machinist wouldn't insist
on the cam and bearings coming out, so he could hot tank a bare block.
Perhaps you should find another machinist.....

--- On Thu, 9/17/09,
ljordan704 at netscape.net <ljordan704 at netscape.net> wrote:

> From:
ljordan704 at netscape.net <ljordan704 at netscape.net>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters]
Removing the cam
> To: granvillecomputing at hotmail.com,
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 5:51 PM
>  So to explain a bit, Peter's engine
> came back from the machinist and he
needs to blow out and
> clean out any debris from the machining work. How is
the
> best way to do that? The head is separated from the block,
> no oilpan
on and everything has been hot tanked but still
> the machinist recommends a
final "cleaning' before
> reassembly. Does the cam need to come out to do
that?
> 
> Linda
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
peter harrison <granvillecomputing at hotmail.com>
> To: datsun
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 8:29 am
> Subject:
[Roadsters] Removing the cam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So starting to
reassemble eliza - put fuel tank back in
> last weekend w/Linda's
> help -
>
need to get the camshaft out to clean it - any idea how I
> may acheive that?
> 
> Still looking for passenger side mounts for alternator -
> want to move
it away
> from exhaust - not looking for freebies
> 
> thx
> 
> peter
> You
are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
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timbob_fisher at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From datsunpartsdotcom at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 18 11:02:28 2009
From: datsunpartsdotcom at yahoo.com (datsun parts.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:02:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
In-Reply-To: <20090918084023.6N5ZB.5267929.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <743181.76395.qm@web36508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I searched 00310-51500  in July 1st 2009 Nissan Motor Parts book CD file. The
information in the CD references a service file note recommending  the
purchaser USE 17010-12202 complete fuel pump assembly indicating that the fuel
pump kit is no longer available here in US. 
When I searched the fuel pump kit at NNANET.COM no Nissan dealers show
inventory in the states.
When a VOR inquiery was made for the complete 17010-12202 fuel pump assembly
the results show 0 on hand at the Nissan warehouses. The item is currently on
back order.
That leaves the regular vendors or EBAY sellers who carry NOS stock of the
fuel pump kit or complete fuel pump assembly.

Hope that helps.


Dean

--- On Fri, 9/18/09, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 18, 2009, 5:40 AM

I know I can get if from a vendor and plan on doing that.

But, I like to try to order parts directly from Nissan so Nissan North America
see that the demand is there.




---- Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

=============
Is there a Nissan part number for the fuel pump rebuild kit?

Thanks

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Fri Sep 18 11:08:27 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:08:27 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CC0699C5AE211D-4020-1FF21@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>

 The engine has been prepped and machined for reassembly, this is the final cleaning. Whether the cam came out during the "hot tank the block" i have no idea. The crankshaft is out. The head is off and I believe was resurfaced. Everything looks super clean but the machinist said "clean, blow out the dust" etc How much was done to the engine was dependent on what had to be done, and what Peter wanted to be done. Some parts may have been OK? and therefor were not replaced. Mark de Groeff was the machinist and he knows Roadsters very well and is very meticulous and has a great reputation, highly recommended by Dean, but of course is always limited by what the customer wants, can afford etc etc as well as when the engine was last rebuilt etc etc.
?It is good to know that cam bearings "should" be replaced in an engine rebuild, according to some.
As we all know, I barely know what a cam is, so I am trying to provide accurate info and do the research in order to help my Roadster pal Peter who has been very helpful to me in getting my car roadworthy. 
So far with step 1-cleaning we have a lot of good info.
More questions to follow I am sure.
Thanks,
Linda




 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Peters <ppeters914 at comcast.net>
To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 18, 2009 9:25 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing the cam










Linda and Peter, 

There's been a lot of discussion about removing the cam, cleaning the block, and 
reassembly, but one thing is not clear, at least to me: 

Has the machine work already been done, or is removing the cam the last bit of 
disassembly before having machine work done? 

Pete 
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 18 11:52:15 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 12:52:15 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
References: <20090918075705.QWEDM.5266148.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <022501ca3888$c2722a50$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Diaphram, valves, and valve gaskets for fuel pumps for R16 / H20 engines are
available through forklift part suppliers or the Nissan Industrial division.
The lower seal is not found. You can get those kit components minus the
lower seal for under $15.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 6:57 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit


> Is there a Nissan part number for the fuel pump rebuild kit?
>
> Thanks
> ________________________________________

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 18 11:54:01 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 12:54:01 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit
References: <20090918084023.6N5ZB.5267929.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <023901ca3889$01578b70$6400a8c0@LAP120>

If you don't mind non-Nissan, the Airtex 1065 for the R16 is commonly
available for around $54.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] fuel pump kit


> I know I can get if from a vendor and plan on doing that.
>
> But, I like to try to order parts directly from Nissan so Nissan North
America see that the demand is there.
>
>
>
>
> ---- Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> Is there a Nissan part number for the fuel pump rebuild kit?
>
> Thanks
> You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Fri Sep 18 11:58:13 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 12:58:13 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC0699C5AE211D-4020-1FF21@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC0699C5AE211D-4020-1FF21@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AB3CA35.9000203@hornesystemstx.com>

Linda,

Thanks for the clarification.

The easiest way to find out if the cam bearings have been replaced is to 
ask the machinist. It may be that the cam bearings were replaced and the 
cam installed to verify that they are lined up correctly and to protect 
the cam. In which case, all that needs to be done is to remove the cam 
and clean out all passages, then put it back in and continue assembling 
the engine.

If they haven't been replaced, they need to be because the hot tank 
ruins bearing shells left in the engine while dipping it.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake ljordan704 at netscape.net, On 9/18/2009 12:08 PM:
>  The engine has been prepped and machined for reassembly, this is the final cleaning. Whether the cam came out during the "hot tank the block" i have no idea. The crankshaft is out. The head is off and I believe was resurfaced. Everything looks super clean but the machinist said "clean, blow out the dust" etc How much was done to the engine was dependent on what had to be done, and what Peter wanted to be done. Some parts may have been OK? and therefor were not replaced. Mark de Groeff was the machinist and he knows Roadsters very well and is very meticulous and has a great reputation, highly recommended by Dean, but of course is always limited by what the customer wants, can afford etc etc as well as when the engine was last rebuilt etc etc.
> ?It is good to know that cam bearings "should" be replaced in an engine rebuild, according to some.
> As we all know, I barely know what a cam is, so I am trying to provide accurate info and do the research in order to help my Roadster pal Peter who has been very helpful to me in getting my car roadworthy. 
> So far with step 1-cleaning we have a lot of good info.
> More questions to follow I am sure.
> Thanks,
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>  
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pete Peters <ppeters914 at comcast.net>
> To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Sep 18, 2009 9:25 am
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Linda and Peter, 
>
> There's been a lot of discussion about removing the cam, cleaning the block, and 
> reassembly, but one thing is not clear, at least to me: 
>
> Has the machine work already been done, or is removing the cam the last bit of 
> disassembly before having machine work done? 
>
> Pete 
> You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Fri Sep 18 11:58:12 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:58:12 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <8CC0699C5AE211D-4020-1FF21@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AB367C4.9818.89746A@localhost>

> The engine has been prepped and machined for reassembly, this is
> the final cleaning. Whether the cam came out during the "hot tank the
> block" i have no idea.

This is why I have a quizzical look on my face. If the block was
hot tanked, the cam bearings MUST be replaced because hot-tanking
will destroy the bearings.

So my _assumption_ is the machinist tore down the block,
did the machine, hot-tanked it, installed cam bearings (with
the oil holes lined up), used startup lube while installing the
lifters and cam (keeping the order of the lifters correct), and is
now just saying "make sure everything's still as clean as when
it left the shop".

If I'm wrong, you need another machinist...

Additional notes: You should be able to see/feel the startup lube
around the cam bearings. If you don't I would be concerned.

If you blow out the block with compressed air, you may blow more
crud IN than you blow OUT.

If there's already any crud, chunks, grit particles in there, it needs
to be thoroughly re-cleaned. My opinion...

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 12:38:27 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:38:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing the cam
In-Reply-To: <1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1119910055.2892151253290500192.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80909181138m653e1094x610ba29a9aaaebe9@mail.gmail.com>

IMHO, one needs to throughly clean the whole deal rather you just take
things apart (to replace bearings, rings, etc) or a rebuild that includes
machining.

Even if your block is cleaned in a solvent tank you need to clean all of the
oil passages, most commonly using gun cleaning brushes and solvents, and
replace all plugs. Sometimes you use threaded plugs, sometimes standard
"freeze" plugs. You also need to replace cam bearings (in a pushrod motor)
anytime you "tank" a motor. Once that's done wash everything with soap and
water. Use a power washer to get any gunk and solvent out of the small
passges and blow everything out with compressed air.
Royal Purple and other companies offer assembly lube that's primarily
designed to lube bearings and such upon first time start until oil pressure
builds up. Even if you "prime" the oiling system it's a good idea to use
assembly lube on bearings and plenty of oil on pistons and cylinder walls
when you bolt it all together. Fire the motor up, make sure you get and
sustain oil pressure. If that's okay, run the motor for 15 to 20 minutes at
or around 2K rpm, thern shut uit down and dump the oil and filter.

Is that a bunch of work? Sure, but it makes a lot of difference in the
quality and longevity of your rebuild.

-- 
Ron

From roadster68 at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 19 13:05:57 2009
From: roadster68 at shaw.ca (Larry Dziuba)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 13:05:57 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] Off Topic - 510 Brake Master Cylinder
References: <1119910055.2892151253290500192.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2faaebf80909181138m653e1094x610ba29a9aaaebe9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <742E9583067D4A3DBAD343D40630B11B@useravjfzd6udp>

Hello Everyone,  It has been a while since I have been on to read anything. 
I am trying to find out if my 1971 510 master brake and clutch cylinders can 
be rebuilt.  Working good now but I do see some black clouds forming in 
fluid.  I assume that the old "O" rings are breaking down.  Any help would 
be greatly appreciated.  I have been driving my 68 roadster a bit more this 
summer.  Approximately 3000 miles on rebuilt 2000.  Larry. 

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sat Sep 19 13:43:43 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 12:43:43 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Off Topic - 510 Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <742E9583067D4A3DBAD343D40630B11B@useravjfzd6udp>
References: <1119910055.2892151253290500192.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><1832550911.2897441253291140480.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><2faaebf80909181138m653e1094x610ba29a9aaaebe9@mail.gmail.com>
	<742E9583067D4A3DBAD343D40630B11B@useravjfzd6udp>
Message-ID: <218D864A36AA444FBD850475BC4347EB@xp>

Can they be? Sure, but I've seen many folks report the rebuild "never quite
worked," and ended up just replacing the master cylinder. 

A quick look online at NAPA and RockAuto show clutch masters and rebuild
kits, but only brake masters.

Lots more Dimers on the Bluebirds mailing list and the510realm.com

Regards,

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Dziuba
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:06 PM
To: Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Off Topic - 510 Brake Master Cylinder

Hello Everyone,  It has been a while since I have been on to read anything.
 
I am trying to find out if my 1971 510 master brake and clutch cylinders can
be rebuilt.  Working good now but I do see some black clouds forming in
fluid.  I assume that the old "O" rings are breaking down.  Any help would
be greatly appreciated.  I have been driving my 68 roadster a bit more this
summer.  Approximately 3000 miles on rebuilt 2000.  Larry. 
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From fairlady_67 at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 19 17:53:15 2009
From: fairlady_67 at hotmail.com (Chris Davies)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 16:53:15 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Top boot mounting
Message-ID: <SNT106-W527F3D97090DD01F26F6EE9DDF0@phx.gbl>

Hi. I was wondering if anyone on the list could send me some detailed pictures
of how the convertable top boot is mounted on my 67.5 car. It never came with
a boot so I'm not to sure of the mounting points for snaps, twisties, posties,
etc. I want to get a boot  as opposed to my tonneau cover. I only know there
used to be snaps down the inside of the door posts and one on the 1/4 panel
but other than that I'm kind of in the dark.

Thanks
Chris Davies
Kitimat B.C.
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
We are your photos. Share us now with Windows Live Photos.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047

From aultgc at att.net  Sat Sep 19 21:26:51 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:26:51 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Top boot mounting
References: <SNT106-W527F3D97090DD01F26F6EE9DDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5079351D8C654DAA94EFB7D2E9F5A866@gaxp1>

Chris,

You have most of the ones inside the passenger compartment already.  There 
are supposed to be three twisties on the vertical panel at the back of the 
shelf.  You should  see the holes on that panel in the trunk.  The balance 
of the boot uses the twisties around the back of the passenger compartment 
as the top/tonneau.  The boot also should have the metal bar which slips 
under the same two lugs that secure the top and tonneau.

Does that do it for you?  If not I can get pictures of the interior of my 
'66.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Davies" <fairlady_67 at hotmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 6:53 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Top boot mounting


> Hi. I was wondering if anyone on the list could send me some detailed 
> pictures
> of how the convertable top boot is mounted on my 67.5 car. It never came 
> with
> a boot so I'm not to sure of the mounting points for snaps, twisties, 
> posties,
> etc. I want to get a boot  as opposed to my tonneau cover. I only know 
> there
> used to be snaps down the inside of the door posts and one on the 1/4 
> panel
> but other than that I'm kind of in the dark.
>
> Thanks
> Chris Davies
> Kitimat B.C.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> We are your photos. Share us now with Windows Live Photos.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 19 23:39:04 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:39:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Problem solved on fuel supply
Message-ID: <119769.47110.qm@web58607.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

The gas tank must have been a Pack Rat home. I blew out the gas line and used a gas can to run the engine. Has ran for 20 miles without a glitch. Removed the gas tank and there were walnuts in the tank. I have been wrenching on cars for close to 40 years and never had a problem such as this. I am originally from Rochester New York and even the "rust buckets" had decent gas tanks.

Thanks goes out to all that have responded on all of my inquiries.

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 19 23:43:44 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:43:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
Message-ID: <84642.33855.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was copper/gold in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is there any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system stop from sticking? 

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 20 00:05:20 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 06:05:20 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Top boot mounting
In-Reply-To: <5079351D8C654DAA94EFB7D2E9F5A866@gaxp1>
References: <SNT106-W527F3D97090DD01F26F6EE9DDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W9398EBDA331284A812CE7B5DE0@phx.gbl>

Here is a picture of the 3 twisties on the back
panel:http://news.webshots.com/photo/1200513149050107943gfChsR
more
twisties/posties:http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2569768120103926530MxCgMl
Don't forget the postie under the vent
window!http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/1266634677064815578mCUZF

Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20



> From: aultgc at att.net
> To: fairlady_67 at hotmail.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:26:51 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Top boot mounting
>
> Chris,
>
> You have most of the ones inside the passenger compartment already.  There
> are supposed to be three twisties on the vertical panel at the back of the
> shelf.  You should  see the holes on that panel in the trunk.  The balance
> of the boot uses the twisties around the back of the passenger compartment
> as the top/tonneau.  The boot also should have the metal bar which slips
> under the same two lugs that secure the top and tonneau.
>
> Does that do it for you?  If not I can get pictures of the interior of my
> '66.
>
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Davies" <fairlady_67 at hotmail.com>
> To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 6:53 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Top boot mounting
>
>
>> Hi. I was wondering if anyone on the list could send me some detailed
>> pictures
>> of how the convertable top boot is mounted on my 67.5 car. It never came
>> with
>> a boot so I'm not to sure of the mounting points for snaps, twisties,
>> posties,
>> etc. I want to get a boot  as opposed to my tonneau cover. I only know
>> there
>> used to be snaps down the inside of the door posts and one on the 1/4
>> panel
>> but other than that I'm kind of in the dark.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Chris Davies
>> Kitimat B.C.
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> We are your photos. Share us now with Windows Live Photos.
>> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>>
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From RWM at RWMann.com  Sun Sep 20 06:14:39 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM (Out of the Office))
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 08:14:39 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <84642.33855.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <84642.33855.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com>

Walnuts?   ;-)

- Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex



David Boerst wrote:
> I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was copper/gold in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is there any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system stop from sticking? 
>   

-- 
R.W. Mann & Company, Inc.  > Airline Industry Analysis and Consulting
Port Washington, NY  11050 > tel 516-944-0900, fax 516-944-7280
mailto:info at RWMann.com     > URL http://www.RWMann.com/

**Confidentiality Notice**

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 08:00:30 2009
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 07:00:30 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Tou Drive Request
Message-ID: <b0b0059f0909200700r729e35bbn8ef15d8f3ba00055@mail.gmail.com>

Dear fellow Roadster enthusiast,

 As the holiday season quickly approaches so does the 2nd Annual SoCalROC
Show-N-Shine Toy Drive which is only 7 weeks away.  As November 7, 2009 is
quickly sneaks up on us, we are working hard to make sure everything is in
place.  As you can imagine, an event of this scale requires some attention
to detail.  Though our main purpose is to gather toys for the children, we
want to make this a fun time for all and draw as many people in as we can;
more people equals more toys.

 Our sponsors have been gracious.  Although their sponsorship is not in the
form of funds, we do appreciate their much-needed support (more is still
needed here as well if you are a vendor and wish to donated funds or item
for raffle your name will be put on our website and flyers).  However, we
are in need of some funds for this event. Our need is not huge; actually
thanks to our sponsors and some club members volunteering, our needs are
rather small compared to other events of this caliber. Nevertheless, we do
have a need for this Toy Drive to be a success.

Our funding goes towards a dual cause.  First, we need money to pay for the
expenses of the event.  Second, we are holding this at the Datsun Heritage
Museum which is a non-profit organization and they are letting us use their
facility for free.  Therefore, any leftover funds will go to support the
legacy that the museum is working so diligently to preserve.

 If you can donate any amount, $10, $15, $20, $30, or more, it will go to a
great cause and your name will be included on the card given with the toys
when they are delivered.  You can also designate some of your funds to buy a
toy, just be sure to say so when making your donation.

 Funds can be sent via PayPal directly to socalroc at gmail.com

For more information on the 2nd Annual SoCalROC Show-N-Shine Toy Drive log
onto: www.socalroc.net

 Thank you for your support and showing that Roadster owners care.

 Yours truly,

Chris Breyer, President
SoCalROC



-- 
SoCalROC
Southern California Datsun Roadster Owners Club
Dedicated to the Driving and Restoration of Datsun Roadsters
www.socalroc.net

-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 20 12:18:46 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 11:18:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] locker unit R&R
Message-ID: <212551.80260.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hi everyone
i'm working on the roadster this weekend.  installed some air intakes into my airdam for the brake ducting.  and now have the header off and am going to wrap it before re-installing it.
i also have a new diff to eventually install.  i have a pumpkin with 4.38 gears, and a (sloppily) welded diff.  i have never installed this unit.  i also recently acquired a detroit locker.  (thanks Dick!).  looking at the 2 units, it seems at first glance that swapping the locker into the pumpkin in place of the welded piece seems pretty straight forward.  but i could find no discussion on 311s.  is it as easy as it looks, or am i in for trouble if i try to do it myself?  any hints?
thanks in advance
steve
675MIZU

From tputland at charter.net  Sun Sep 20 15:12:20 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 14:12:20 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] rear carb issue
Message-ID: <20090920171220.ODQ01.433596.root@mp05>

In the process of fixing a small fuel leak (new gasket) on the rear float on my 1600, I have discovered another issue with this carb: The over flow, which is piped into the air cleaner, seems to be flowing fuel into the air cleaner holder--not a lot but enough to be worrying. I have been smelling fuel off and on for a few weeks or so, so I have to think this is a new issue. 

How do I get this to stop? 

The float does not have gas in it. And the spring valve in the float seems to be working.

I have new carbs coming, but until then, and I do not know how long this will be, I would like to fix this issue.

Thanks
Tim

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 20 15:48:44 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 14:48:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com>
Message-ID: <500280.78790.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Gasoline used to be made from crude simply. You put the crude in the bottom of
a still, and you got gasoline from a certain level in the tower.
 
At the top is hydrogen, then on declining levels, heavier molecules through
butane, gasoline, kerosene, diesel, oils down to asphalt tar at the bottom.
 
Due to a need for gasoline with higher octane without lead additives, they had
to 'reform" some of the  heavier molecules. This involves putting the heavier
molecules through a catalytic cracker. This heats the fuel very hot, and
breaks the long chains into smaller ones. Then you put the hydrogen back in
and you get more useful middle sized molecules.
 
You also get funny molecules that are not very good, and can be corrosive or
otherwise bad.
 
Not you always got gums in distilled fuel, but this process produces more
funny molecules, so you have different treatments, including ones to remove
the sulfur.
 
Getting more higher octane gas from the crude and meeting EPA law creates a
Pandora's box of molecules.

Hence, you have some big differences between gas 40 years ago.
 
JimG
2K 69 NJ
--- On Sun, 9/20/09, RWM (Out of the Office) <RWM at RWMann.com> wrote:


From: RWM (Out of the Office) <RWM at RWMann.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
To: "David Boerst" <dboerst at yahoo.com>
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, September 20, 2009, 8:14 AM


Walnuts?   ;-)

- Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex



David Boerst wrote:
> I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was copper/gold
in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the
price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is there
any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system stop
from sticking?   

-- R.W. Mann & Company, Inc.  > Airline Industry Analysis and Consulting
Port Washington, NY  11050 > tel 516-944-0900, fax 516-944-7280
mailto:info at RWMann.com     > URL http://www.RWMann.com/

**Confidentiality Notice**
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

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From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Sun Sep 20 16:57:00 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 18:57:00 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Off Topic - 510 Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <218D864A36AA444FBD850475BC4347EB@xp>
Message-ID: <94B056D873CB4A46BE03C08F7D3C0296@delled48909442>

I looked ar Rockauto, saw a whole clutch master for $18.00  RHINO PAC Part #
M0612 a clutch slave for $13.50  RHINO PAC Part # S0650 and a clutch hose
for $9.00 DORMAN Part # H96868.  May as well change all the rubber in there
for $40.00 and be done with it.

Dave Brisco

ECR


-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Peters [mailto:ppeters914 at comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 3:44 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Off Topic - 510 Brake Master Cylinder

Can they be? Sure, but I've seen many folks report the rebuild "never quite
worked," and ended up just replacing the master cylinder.

A quick look online at NAPA and RockAuto show clutch masters and rebuild
kits, but only brake masters.

Lots more Dimers on the Bluebirds mailing list and the510realm.com

Regards,

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Dziuba
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:06 PM
To: Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Off Topic - 510 Brake Master Cylinder

Hello Everyone,  It has been a while since I have been on to read anything.

I am trying to find out if my 1971 510 master brake and clutch cylinders can
be rebuilt.  Working good now but I do see some black clouds forming in
fluid.  I assume that the old "O" rings are breaking down.  Any help would
be greatly appreciated.  I have been driving my 68 roadster a bit more this
summer.  Approximately 3000 miles on rebuilt 2000.  Larry.
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 18:56:48 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 19:56:48 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] locker unit R&R
In-Reply-To: <212551.80260.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <212551.80260.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80909201756h55da66b1m583f5a44fed805d4@mail.gmail.com>

Steve,
If you've never swapped a ring gear and pinion, I'd suggest having it done.
It's not a simple task without the right tools and some experience. There
are a number of critical tolerances that must be set correctly or you can
chew up the gears in short order as well as messing up your nice Detroit
Locker. Search the web for info on replacing and setting up the R&P and
you'll see what I mean.

Ron

On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 1:18 PM, steven boortz <
vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com> wrote:

> hi everyone
> i'm working on the roadster this weekend.  installed some air intakes into
> my airdam for the brake ducting.  and now have the header off and am going
> to wrap it before re-installing it.
> i also have a new diff to eventually install.  i have a pumpkin with 4.38
> gears, and a (sloppily) welded diff.  i have never installed this unit.  i
> also recently acquired a detroit locker.  (thanks Dick!).  looking at the 2
> units, it seems at first glance that swapping the locker into the pumpkin in
> place of the welded piece seems pretty straight forward.  but i could find
> no discussion on 311s.  is it as easy as it looks, or am i in for trouble if
> i try to do it myself?  any hints?
> thanks in advance
> steve
> 675MIZU
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From scott8933 at socal.rr.com  Sun Sep 20 21:40:26 2009
From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com (Scott Ulrich)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 20:40:26 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <500280.78790.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com>
	<500280.78790.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>

Somewhat off topic I guess, somewhat on. I hate that you can't store
something as simple as a scooter for more than a few months without draining
all the fuel out of it first - otherwise risking an unnecessarily expensive
complete fuel system clean-out.
On the other hand, I remember growing up in Los Angeles as a kid and
sometimes not being able to see the end of the block in the summer from the
smog. People still complain about the air here, who either don't remember
or weren't here to see what Hell on Earth could look like. Sure, its still
bad some days, no question about that. But today's bad is nothing compared
to the leaded-gas days.

Sorry, just waxing anti-nostalgic. Back to the topic at hand.

I think there is something you can put in gas for long-term storage (or what
some people mysteriously call "Winter.") Pretty sure I've read about them on
motorcycle forums. Off to Google it...





>
> David Boerst wrote:
> > I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was
> copper/gold
> in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the
> price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is
> there
> any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system stop
> from sticking?

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Sun Sep 20 21:54:13 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 23:54:13 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com><500280.78790.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC0886512796D7-2B10-F2FA@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com>

 Stabil works pretty well. I agree, the gas is gummy. It gums up the float bowl valve too easily.
Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 20, 2009 8:40 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?










Somewhat off topic I guess, somewhat on. I hate that you can't store
something as simple as a scooter for more than a few months without draining
all the fuel out of it first - otherwise risking an unnecessarily expensive
complete fuel system clean-out.
On the other hand, I remember growing up in Los Angeles as a kid and
sometimes not being able to see the end of the block in the summer from the
smog. People still complain about the air here, who either don't remember
or weren't here to see what Hell on Earth could look like. Sure, its still
bad some days, no question about that. But today's bad is nothing compared
to the leaded-gas days.

Sorry, just waxing anti-nostalgic. Back to the topic at hand.

I think there is something you can put in gas for long-term storage (or what
some people mysteriously call "Winter.") Pretty sure I've read about them on
motorcycle forums. Off to Google it...





>
> David Boerst wrote:
> > I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was
> copper/gold
> in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the
> price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is
> there
> any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system stop
> from sticking?
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 20 21:56:50 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 22:56:50 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
References: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com><500280.78790.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com><bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CC0886512796D7-2B10-F2FA@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <9EEFA67353E44402AC8A91407CEBD1C9@ranteer.local>

so my question is: the stuff we use to keep gasoline from degrading - how 
long does it last (the stuff)?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ljordan704 at netscape.net>
To: <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum 
up?


> Stabil works pretty well. I agree, the gas is gummy. It gums up the float 
> bowl valve too easily.
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
> To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Sep 20, 2009 8:40 pm
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum 
> up?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Somewhat off topic I guess, somewhat on. I hate that you can't store
> something as simple as a scooter for more than a few months without 
> draining
> all the fuel out of it first - otherwise risking an unnecessarily 
> expensive
> complete fuel system clean-out.
> On the other hand, I remember growing up in Los Angeles as a kid and
> sometimes not being able to see the end of the block in the summer from 
> the
> smog. People still complain about the air here, who either don't remember
> or weren't here to see what Hell on Earth could look like. Sure, its still
> bad some days, no question about that. But today's bad is nothing compared
> to the leaded-gas days.
>
> Sorry, just waxing anti-nostalgic. Back to the topic at hand.
>
> I think there is something you can put in gas for long-term storage (or 
> what
> some people mysteriously call "Winter.") Pretty sure I've read about them 
> on
> motorcycle forums. Off to Google it...
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>> David Boerst wrote:
>> > I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was
>> copper/gold
>> in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the
>> price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is
>> there
>> any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system 
>> stop
>> from sticking?

From davesmbox at aol.com  Sun Sep 20 22:30:33 2009
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 00:30:33 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com><500280.78790.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC088B646FD8F8-1FA0-ED73@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>

YOU WANT A LAUGH PLAY WITH TODAYS GAS IN A BOAT'

Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 20, 2009 11:40 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?




Somewhat off topic I guess, somewhat on. I hate that you can't store
something as simple as a scooter for more than a few months without draining
all the fuel out of it first - otherwise risking an unnecessarily expensive
complete fuel system clean-out.
On the other hand, I remember growing up in Los Angeles as a kid and
sometimes not being able to see the end of the block in the summer from the
smog. People still complain about the air here, who either don't remember
or weren't here to see what Hell on Earth could look like. Sure, its still
bad some days, no question about that. But today's bad is nothing compared
to the leaded-gas days.

Sorry, just waxing anti-nostalgic. Back to the topic at hand.

I think there is something you can put in gas for long-term storage (or what
some people mysteriously call "Winter.") Pretty sure I've read about them on
motorcycle forums. Off to Google it...





>
> David Boerst wrote:
> > I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew up gasoline was
> copper/gold
> in color. The only thing todays fuel has in common with the color is the
> price. My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston wise. Is
> there
> any treatment/additive or polishing of piston to make the choke system stop
> from sticking?
You are subscribed as davesmbox at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From scott8933 at socal.rr.com  Sun Sep 20 23:24:12 2009
From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com (Scott Ulrich)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 22:24:12 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <273311.75113.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <bdfb16710909202040p5277ed1ayf0437647090b7b29@mail.gmail.com>
	<273311.75113.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <bdfb16710909202224sf026654wf9a760c70a246978@mail.gmail.com>

My quick and dirty research also turned up Stabil the popular solution.
Option (2): using AV gas which is said to be guaranteed for a certain length
of time before degrading. I'm sure a pilot on this list could give the specs
on that, though I've also heard its not as easy as it used to be to buy gas
at the airport.


On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:37 PM, Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Stabil ought to give you 6 months anyhow
>
> JimG

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Mon Sep 21 06:10:28 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 08:10:28 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] rear carb issue
Message-ID: <ce3.578416aa.37e8c734@aol.com>

This is normally a float valve issue. Either it is worn out of has a bit of 
 dirt in it. 
 
keith williams
 
 
In a message dated 9/20/2009 2:23:03 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tputland at charter.net writes:

In the  process of fixing a small fuel leak (new gasket) on the rear float 
on my 1600,  I have discovered another issue with this carb: The over flow, 
which is piped  into the air cleaner, seems to be flowing fuel into the air 
cleaner  holder--not a lot but enough to be worrying. I have been smelling 
fuel off and  on for a few weeks or so, so I have to think this is a new 
issue. 

How  do I get this to stop? 

The float does not have gas in it. And the  spring valve in the float seems 
to be working.

I have new carbs coming,  but until then, and I do not know how long this 
will be, I would like to fix  this  issue.

Thanks
Tim
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

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From timbob_fisher at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 21 06:43:57 2009
From: timbob_fisher at yahoo.com (tim fisher)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 05:43:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <84642.33855.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <59743.73532.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Today's gasoline has 10% alcohol.  Alcohol absorbs water at a faster rate than
gas does.  If you do not use a full tank of gas in a week or so, you should
look at only adding as much as you are going to use in that time.  Or, stabil
is a good product. Good for 6 months or so.

--- On Sun, 9/20/09, David Boerst
<dboerst at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: David Boerst <dboerst at yahoo.com>
>
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, September 20, 2009, 12:43
AM
> I don't call todays fuel gasoline.
> When I grew up gasoline was
copper/gold in color. The only
> thing todays fuel has in common with the
color is the price.
> My 1600 and Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming up choke piston
> wise. Is there any treatment/additive or polishing of piston
> to make the
choke system stop from sticking? 
> ________________________________________
>
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
timbob_fisher at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From timbob_fisher at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 21 07:30:40 2009
From: timbob_fisher at yahoo.com (tim fisher)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 06:30:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <4AB61CAF.2050902@RWMann.com>
Message-ID: <928824.10757.qm@web54112.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ahhhh.....a variation of the old ping pong ball in the gas tank.  Makes a nice
noise while sloshing around.  Not that I've ever been part of such a prank...
--- On Sun, 9/20/09, RWM (Out of the Office) <RWM at RWMann.com> wrote:

> From:
RWM (Out of the Office) <RWM at RWMann.com>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in
todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
> To: "David Boerst"
<dboerst at yahoo.com>
> Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday,
September 20, 2009, 7:14 AM
> Walnuts?   ;-)
> 
> - Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex
>
> 
> 
> David Boerst wrote:
> > I don't call todays fuel gasoline. When I grew
up
> gasoline was copper/gold in color. The only thing todays
> fuel has in
common with the color is the price. My 1600 and
> Amy's 1966 1600 keep gumming
up choke piston wise. Is there
> any treatment/additive or polishing of piston
to make the
> choke system stop from sticking?   
> 
> -- R.W. Mann & Company,
Inc.  > Airline
> Industry Analysis and Consulting
> Port Washington, NY 
11050 > tel 516-944-0900, fax
> 516-944-7280
> mailto:info at RWMann.com 
>    >
URL http://www.RWMann.com/
> 
> **Confidentiality Notice**
>
________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
timbob_fisher at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
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> 
>
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Tired of
spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 21 08:39:48 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 07:39:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <bdfb16710909202224sf026654wf9a760c70a246978@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <782784.18831.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Actually, Avgas (typically 100 LL) is a completely different thing. It is not
a straight distillate, but a reprocessed "alkylate". The specification ASTM
D910 requires it to have virtually no gum content, because aircraft often sit
long periods between flights.
 
JimG

--- On Mon, 9/21/09, Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com> wrote:


From: Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:24 AM


My quick and dirty research also turned up Stabil the popular solution.
Option (2): using AV gas which is said to be guaranteed for a certain length
of time before degrading. I'm sure a pilot on this list could give the specs
on that, though I've also heard its not as easy as it used to be to buy gas
at the airport.


On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:37 PM, Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Stabil ought to give you 6 months anyhow
>
> JimG
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From scott8933 at socal.rr.com  Mon Sep 21 10:06:18 2009
From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com (Scott Ulrich)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:06:18 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <782784.18831.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <bdfb16710909202224sf026654wf9a760c70a246978@mail.gmail.com>
	<782784.18831.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <bdfb16710909210906o31dee73av1db48a1c83c48ba8@mail.gmail.com>

Good to know. I remember from my street racing days that some of the people
*said *they were using avgas to fill up because you could get higher
octane. But as with everything else Street Racing related, I knew that 90%
of it was probably just big talk.

There were (maybe still are?) some gas stations around that sell "racing
fuel" - which was something like 105 or 110 octane. But again this may have
been just a marketing thing: regular fuel with some off-the-shelf additive
in it. The only people I ever saw filling up with it were Valley-Rednecks in
their jacked-up (or slammed) trucks. Certainly nobody that actually had a
ultra-high compression or forced induction - just a lot of forced-attitude.

When I worked for a guy who raced for real, in IT-S class, we just used
regular pump gas. But then those were theoretically stock engines. (How the
RX-7 guys got away with their gigantic extra ports while still passing
inspection, we never exactly knew. Hey, sure - every street rotary goes
blaaat-blaaat-blaaat when it idles..)

Other, higher-up classes certainly must have been using "real" racing gas
though. So I suppose that could be an option, if its stable and you know
where to get it. Also a good excuse to up the compression to 11:1 to take
advantage of the extra octane you're putting in. Again I'd differ to the
list - anyone know the scoop on the various forms of "racing" fuel?




On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 7:39 AM, Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Actually, Avgas (typically 100 LL) is a completely different thing. It is
> not a straight distillate, but a reprocessed "alkylate". The specification
> ASTM D910 requires it to have virtually no gum content, because aircraft
> often sit long periods between flights.
>
> JimG
>
> --- On *Mon, 9/21/09, Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum
> up?
> To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:24 AM
>
> My quick and dirty research also turned up Stabil the popular solution.
> Option (2): using AV gas which is said to be guaranteed for a certain
> length
> of time before degrading. I'm sure a pilot on this list could give the
> specs
> on that, though I've also heard its not as easy as it used to be to buy gas
> at the airport.
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:37 PM, Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com<http://us.mc511.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
>
> > Stabil ought to give you 6 months anyhow
> >
> > JimG

From mkearns2 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 10:07:44 2009
From: mkearns2 at gmail.com (Mark Kearns)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:07:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
Message-ID: <c78c52c60909210907h137c07b7q85de1a68a670303b@mail.gmail.com>


From RWM at RWMann.com  Mon Sep 21 10:25:26 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 12:25:26 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <bdfb16710909210906o31dee73av1db48a1c83c48ba8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bdfb16710909202224sf026654wf9a760c70a246978@mail.gmail.com>
	<782784.18831.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<bdfb16710909210906o31dee73av1db48a1c83c48ba8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AB7A8F6.3070802@RWMann.com>


From scott8933 at socal.rr.com  Mon Sep 21 10:53:53 2009
From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com (Scott Ulrich)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:53:53 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <4AB7A8F6.3070802@RWMann.com>
References: <bdfb16710909202224sf026654wf9a760c70a246978@mail.gmail.com>
	<782784.18831.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<bdfb16710909210906o31dee73av1db48a1c83c48ba8@mail.gmail.com>
	<4AB7A8F6.3070802@RWMann.com>
Message-ID: <bdfb16710909210953p1755e7eev8cf0f236006de950@mail.gmail.com>

I didn't mean the *actual *use of avgas was all talk - I meant that I just
didn't believe the guy in the jacked-up Camaro with a racing cam and 3"
exhaust (and no other mods) who claimed to be filling up at the airport.
There was a guy in the SFValley who was kind of famous for building sleepers
- he'd stuff a big block into a Gremlin, then put "6-cylinder" stickers back
on the air cleaner. Big mufflers, barely made a peep, stock steel wheels -
but cut and widened a few inches. No big cam, just lots of cubic inches.

That was the guy, if any, who may have been filling up at the airport. But
generally the noisier the car, the bigger the mouth, and the less they knew
how to build a car for street racing. And they were always surprised to get
spanked by a Datsun.

"What good's that hood scoop going to do you at 8000rpm doing 35 in 1st
gear? Gonna get all that power down with your open 3:27? Do you even *know *how
your rear-end is geared? Okay then, want to race that foreign car sitting
over there?"

Of course my own hubris got me beat plenty of times by sleeper Z-cars
running a hidden tank of nitrous somewhere, who'd back-pedal me for the
first run. Ah...fine memories.

My hair went away with the cars...




On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:25 AM, RWM <RWM at rwmann.com> wrote:

>  Well, not entirely talk...
>
> In the "bad old days", avgas was heavily leaded and available in green
> 100/130 octane and (less available) purple 115/145 octane.
>
> The green and purple avgas blends were highly sought after for racing use.
>
> Now, as Jim says, the lead is long gone and blue 100LL prevails, though for
> a while in the 1990s, red 80/87 motor gasoline was in use.
>
> I use Stabil over the winter in yard machinery and the 2000 and it works
> fine.   Stabil itself seems to have a very long shelf-life (un-mixed).
>
>  - Bob

From jsk977 at optonline.net  Mon Sep 21 11:37:47 2009
From: jsk977 at optonline.net (Jerry Krakauer)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:37:47 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
References: <bdfb16710909202224sf026654wf9a760c70a246978@mail.gmail.com>
	<782784.18831.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<bdfb16710909210906o31dee73av1db48a1c83c48ba8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02FEFBE3D1CE44E4B77DC2C4859E9299@HP1450>

Back in the late 60s, my first BSR built U20 used domed R16 pistons and a 
milled head for a compression ratio north of 12.5:1. (the second and current 
build is 11.7:1)The only street fuel it would run on guaranteed not to knock 
was Sunoco 260. If  I recall it was around 102 octane - around 95 - 96 by 
today's R+M/2 method. We sometimes used 100/145 av gas - (122.5 octane 
R+M/2). Due to the fact that it had no highway fuel taxes you could not 
legally just "fill it up" had to use 5 Gal containers, and most general 
aviation airport operators were in an industry that liked to follow the 
rules.

In the northeast Sunoco still has some stations that sell Sunoco Racing 
Fuel(formerly known as Cam 2) with an octane in the high 90s, but since it 
contains lead, again you can't just fill it up, must be purchased in 
containers, and the nozzles are still the older larger diameter so they 
won't fit a modern fuel neck.

Jerry Krakauer
SRL311 00099
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Ulrich" <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum 
up?


> Good to know. I remember from my street racing days that some of the 
> people
> *said *they were using avgas to fill up because you could get higher
> octane. But as with everything else Street Racing related, I knew that 90%
> of it was probably just big talk.
>
> There were (maybe still are?) some gas stations around that sell "racing
> fuel" - which was something like 105 or 110 octane. But again this may 
> have
> been just a marketing thing: regular fuel with some off-the-shelf additive
> in it. The only people I ever saw filling up with it were Valley-Rednecks 
> in
> their jacked-up (or slammed) trucks. Certainly nobody that actually had a
> ultra-high compression or forced induction - just a lot of 
> forced-attitude.
>
> When I worked for a guy who raced for real, in IT-S class, we just used
> regular pump gas. But then those were theoretically stock engines. (How 
> the
> RX-7 guys got away with their gigantic extra ports while still passing
> inspection, we never exactly knew. Hey, sure - every street rotary goes
> blaaat-blaaat-blaaat when it idles..)
>
> Other, higher-up classes certainly must have been using "real" racing gas
> though. So I suppose that could be an option, if its stable and you know
> where to get it. Also a good excuse to up the compression to 11:1 to take
> advantage of the extra octane you're putting in. Again I'd differ to the
> list - anyone know the scoop on the various forms of "racing" fuel?

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Mon Sep 21 12:12:46 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Embarq Customer)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 14:12:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <02FEFBE3D1CE44E4B77DC2C4859E9299@HP1450>
Message-ID: <1547695530.6742171253556766284.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>

I just swapped the Race car over to E85.  It is 105 octane.  It also cleans everything spotless.

Andy

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 21 12:21:13 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:21:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <bdfb16710909210953p1755e7eev8cf0f236006de950@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <257560.52073.qm@web51103.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

One thing to remember is that  lead will screw up a cat converter on a modern
car.
 
JimG
69 2K NJ

--- On Mon, 9/21/09, Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com> wrote:


From: Scott Ulrich <scott8933 at socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 12:53 PM


I didn't mean the *actual *use of avgas was all talk - I meant that I just
didn't believe the guy in the jacked-up Camaro with a racing cam and 3"
exhaust (and no other mods) who claimed to be filling up at the airport.
There was a guy in the SFValley who was kind of famous for building sleepers
- he'd stuff a big block into a Gremlin, then put "6-cylinder" stickers back
on the air cleaner. Big mufflers, barely made a peep, stock steel wheels -
but cut and widened a few inches. No big cam, just lots of cubic inches.

That was the guy, if any, who may have been filling up at the airport. But
generally the noisier the car, the bigger the mouth, and the less they knew
how to build a car for street racing. And they were always surprised to get
spanked by a Datsun.

"What good's that hood scoop going to do you at 8000rpm doing 35 in 1st
gear? Gonna get all that power down with your open 3:27? Do you even *know
*how
your rear-end is geared? Okay then, want to race that foreign car sitting
over there?"

Of course my own hubris got me beat plenty of times by sleeper Z-cars
running a hidden tank of nitrous somewhere, who'd back-pedal me for the
first run. Ah...fine memories.

My hair went away with the cars...




On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:25 AM, RWM <RWM at rwmann.com> wrote:

>  Well, not entirely talk...
>
> In the "bad old days", avgas was heavily leaded and available in green
> 100/130 octane and (less available) purple 115/145 octane.
>
> The green and purple avgas blends were highly sought after for racing use.
>
> Now, as Jim says, the lead is long gone and blue 100LL prevails, though for
> a while in the 1990s, red 80/87 motor gasoline was in use.
>
> I use Stabil over the winter in yard machinery and the 2000 and it works
> fine.   Stabil itself seems to have a very long shelf-life (un-mixed).
>
>  - Bob
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Mon Sep 21 12:42:43 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:42:43 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw: Minden / Nevada Drive 2009 Sept. 19 / 20
In-Reply-To: <435047.16818.qm@web81808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090921144243.FF1ZV.24019.root@mp06>

Great shots Herb! Makes me miss the Sierra Nevadas and living in Tahoe!

Tim


---- Herb Petty <haabu at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

=============






Subject: Minden / Nevada Drive 2009 Sept. 19 / 20







More Foto's.B B B B B 

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Mon Sep 21 14:08:33 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:08:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A2560@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

Along the lines of "another quirky thing to do to a small engine, anyone
recognize the supercharger on this VW engine?  ( roots type, I think
they call it, intake charge definitely not cooled)

http://cncpics.com/v/090905/20090912/DSC02229.JPG.html

Tiny 1 bl carb sitting on top, and looks like single port intake
manifold.  When the race reg people - see previous pics of car - stated
"stock carb req'd", I bet they never thought anyone would try to
pressurize a stock carb.

Just more ruminations,
Fergus O

From gkmcc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 14:37:54 2009
From: gkmcc at sbcglobal.net (Gary McCormick)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:37:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16  option?
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A2560@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <872770.95758.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Isn't this setup kinda backwards, i.e., isn't a supercharger usually upstream
of the carburetor or fuel injection body, in order to pressurize the carb/FIB?
I mean, that's why they call 'em blowers, isn't it? This looks like a suck (as
opposed to blow) arrangement.

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA

--- On Mon, 9/21/09, O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
wrote:

From: O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:08 PM

Along the lines of "another quirky thing to do to a small engine, anyone
recognize the supercharger on this VW engine?  ( roots type, I think
they call it, intake charge definitely not cooled)

http://cncpics.com/v/090905/20090912/DSC02229.JPG.html

Tiny 1 bl carb sitting on top, and looks like single port intake
manifold.  When the race reg people - see previous pics of car - stated
"stock carb req'd", I bet they never thought anyone would try to
pressurize a stock carb.

Just more ruminations,
Fergus O
You are subscribed as gkmcc at sbcglobal.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Mon Sep 21 14:55:56 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:55:56 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16   option?
In-Reply-To: <872770.95758.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <872770.95758.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AB7E85C.4090900@hornesystemstx.com>

Old Paxton superchargers were downstream of the carbs, they mounted 
multiple carbs to the sides of the supercharger, then mounted the 
supercharger to the manifold.

It would be interesting to see what mods he did to the engine 
compartment lid, I don't think there is enough room to close it and 
clear the supercharger.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Gary McCormick, On 9/21/2009 3:37 PM:
> Isn't this setup kinda backwards, i.e., isn't a supercharger usually upstream
> of the carburetor or fuel injection body, in order to pressurize the carb/FIB?
> I mean, that's why they call 'em blowers, isn't it? This looks like a suck (as
> opposed to blow) arrangement.
>
> Gary McCormick
> San Jose, CA
>
> --- On Mon, 9/21/09, O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
> wrote:
>
> From: O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
> Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:08 PM
>
> Along the lines of "another quirky thing to do to a small engine, anyone
> recognize the supercharger on this VW engine?  ( roots type, I think
> they call it, intake charge definitely not cooled)
>
> http://cncpics.com/v/090905/20090912/DSC02229.JPG.html
>
> Tiny 1 bl carb sitting on top, and looks like single port intake
> manifold.  When the race reg people - see previous pics of car - stated
> "stock carb req'd", I bet they never thought anyone would try to
> pressurize a stock carb.
>
> Just more ruminations,
> Fergus O
> You are subscribed as gkmcc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Mon Sep 21 15:18:17 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:18:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <1547695530.6742171253556766284.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>
References: <02FEFBE3D1CE44E4B77DC2C4859E9299@HP1450>
	<1547695530.6742171253556766284.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <000901ca3b01$0b10fff0$2132ffd0$@net>

  What compression ratio is the race motor?

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Embarq Customer

I just swapped the Race car over to E85.  It is 105 octane.  It also cleans
everything spotless.

Andy

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Mon Sep 21 15:21:29 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Embarq Customer)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:21:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16   option?
In-Reply-To: <872770.95758.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <259203029.6803571253568089720.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>

You can suck through or blow through.  The blow through arrangement is a hassle because you have to put the carb inside a pressurized box.  Otherwise it shoots gas out all the vents and shaft seals.  You also have to vary the fuel pressure based on the amount of boost.  The suck through design works pretty well but with an intercooler you have a bomb waiting for the first backfire.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary McCormick" <gkmcc at sbcglobal.net>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net, "Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 3:37:54 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16  option?

Isn't this setup kinda backwards, i.e., isn't a supercharger usually upstream
of the carburetor or fuel injection body, in order to pressurize the carb/FIB?
I mean, that's why they call 'em blowers, isn't it? This looks like a suck (as
opposed to blow) arrangement.

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA

--- On Mon, 9/21/09, O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
wrote:

From: O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:08 PM

Along the lines of "another quirky thing to do to a small engine, anyone
recognize the supercharger on this VW engine?  ( roots type, I think
they call it, intake charge definitely not cooled)

http://cncpics.com/v/090905/20090912/DSC02229.JPG.html

Tiny 1 bl carb sitting on top, and looks like single port intake
manifold.  When the race reg people - see previous pics of car - stated
"stock carb req'd", I bet they never thought anyone would try to
pressurize a stock carb.

Just more ruminations,
Fergus O
You are subscribed as gkmcc at sbcglobal.net

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 21 16:06:46 2009
From: fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com (Patti Dwinell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:06:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Seeking the Gauge Guru
Message-ID: <850984.37836.qm@web53510.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'm looking for contact info for Jon Frampton....you out there, Frampton?
Please respond off-list.
Thanks!
Patti
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 16:30:17 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:30:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <c78c52c60909210907h137c07b7q85de1a68a670303b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1CB60906FE5F4F03AE4A426D3B0E0C75@delled48909442>

And no content! :)

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Kearns [mailto:mkearns2 at gmail.com] 

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 16:47:27 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:47:27 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <1547695530.6742171253556766284.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <46815CA90AE64C11AB53D43D1F29ADD6@delled48909442>

Andy, That car is injected, correct?  I was wondering if it' possible to
rejet carbs for E85 and gasoline, or are they that different you would need
to pick one.  I don't think we have E85 in the Northeast anyway.

Dave Brisco
ECR

-----Original Message-----
From: Embarq Customer [mailto:andycost at embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 2:13 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum
up?

I just swapped the Race car over to E85.  It is 105 octane.  It also cleans
everything spotless.

Andy

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Mon Sep 21 17:49:48 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:49:48 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
In-Reply-To: <46815CA90AE64C11AB53D43D1F29ADD6@delled48909442>
References: <46815CA90AE64C11AB53D43D1F29ADD6@delled48909442>
Message-ID: <4AB8111C.60905@hornesystemstx.com>

Dave,

My understanding is that E85 and Gasoline are so different in their 
requirements that the only way to  use  them on the same engine is to go 
with FI. I don't think I've ever heard of a carburetted engine being set 
for E85 even though there are some E75 carbs listed on the net.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake dave, On 9/21/2009 5:47 PM:
> Andy, That car is injected, correct?  I was wondering if it' possible to
> rejet carbs for E85 and gasoline, or are they that different you would need
> to pick one.  I don't think we have E85 in the Northeast anyway.
>
> Dave Brisco
> ECR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Embarq Customer [mailto:andycost at embarqmail.com] 
> Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 2:13 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum
> up?
>
> I just swapped the Race car over to E85.  It is 105 octane.  It also cleans
> everything spotless.
>
> Andy
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From aultgc at att.net  Mon Sep 21 19:26:31 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 20:26:31 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16  option?
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A2560@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <4C9099B3B7F4433D854703643285BBA1@gaxp1>

Fergus,

As a former owner of a 1966 1300 Beetle (bought new in 1965), I recall that 
a Roots-type blower was offered as a kit once upon a time.  More common were 
two-barrel carb/manifolds.  I only had an intake scoop and an extractor 
exhaust with dreams of turning it into a Baja bug when we could afford 
another car as our family car.  Bought a my '66 1600 in 1971 instead.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 3:08 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?


> Along the lines of "another quirky thing to do to a small engine, anyone
> recognize the supercharger on this VW engine?  ( roots type, I think
> they call it, intake charge definitely not cooled)
>
> http://cncpics.com/v/090905/20090912/DSC02229.JPG.html
>
> Tiny 1 bl carb sitting on top, and looks like single port intake
> manifold.  When the race reg people - see previous pics of car - stated
> "stock carb req'd", I bet they never thought anyone would try to
> pressurize a stock carb.
>
> Just more ruminations,
> Fergus O
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From jake7140 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 21 20:42:57 2009
From: jake7140 at yahoo.com (Steve Jacobson)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 19:42:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Water Pump Pulley
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7101.1253291146.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <500034.40438.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Howard,
We use a SB Chevy unit on the 1600.  You can get a alum one from local parts
store or Summit part# SUM-G3963 ~$31.  Big hole is OK, but will need to drill
new holes for the pump flange.  Can then also use std water pump spacer shims
if needed.  There is one for the short neck and one for the long neck SB
pumps, this I think os for the short necks.  Overall depth about 2.5-3", 6 or
6.5 inch diam.  USes ~3/8" belt.

Just talked to a local 2L roadster racer this weekend, he runs fine with a C&R
radiator, stock pulley, says he never uses the fan. C&R wanted him to run
stock pulley??? Some ducting in the grill to keep the air in.


Steve


Steve's Racing web site

  www.NoNameRacing.com

Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society

  www.elrss.com


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Howard @
Everything Christmas
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 1:58 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley

Hi All,

Does anyone know where I can purchase a Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley.
Preferably not for a Kings Randsom

I need to slow down the water pump to try and get my engine cooler on a
Solex
Equipped U20 engine on my Race Car.
I am already using a 4 core radiator and ducting to direct the air straight
into the radiator. I need to pull the water temp back 20 degrees c or so.
and
this is one step....

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 20:47:38 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 19:47:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16   option?
In-Reply-To: <872770.95758.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A2560@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<872770.95758.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000f01ca3b2f$0cbd3a70$2637af50$@net>

I can tell you were never a hot-rodder or drag racer (not a criticism, just
an observation). The basic GMC Rootes-type blower has been used for decades,
and still is the dominant setup. Carbs or injectors are mounted on top of
the blower. In the newer cars (okay, probably the last 20 years) there is
multi-stage fuel injection, with the first stage being above the blower and
the others plumbed into the intake manifold below it.

Drag racing is all about excess, that's why I still find it fascinating. In
a top-fuel engine making 8000 hp, it takes about 900 hp just to drive the
blower.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary McCormick
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 1:38 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?

Isn't this setup kinda backwards, i.e., isn't a supercharger usually
upstream
of the carburetor or fuel injection body, in order to pressurize the
carb/FIB?
I mean, that's why they call 'em blowers, isn't it? This looks like a suck
(as
opposed to blow) arrangement.

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA

From gkmcc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 22:03:04 2009
From: gkmcc at sbcglobal.net (Gary McCormick)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 21:03:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16   option?
In-Reply-To: <000f01ca3b2f$0cbd3a70$2637af50$@net>
Message-ID: <83782.75560.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm always willing to learn, which is why I love this list so much. Any question one asks will get good responses! I try to learn something new every day, and when it comes to things automotive, this is usually the place I learn it!
Thanks for the info, Gordon.

Gary McCormickSan Jose, Ca

--- On Mon, 9/21/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16  option?
To: "'Gary McCormick'" <gkmcc at sbcglobal.net>, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net, "'Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 7:47 PM

I can tell you were never a hot-rodder or drag racer (not a criticism, just
an observation). The basic GMC Rootes-type blower has been used for decades,
and still is the dominant setup. Carbs or injectors are mounted on top of
the blower. In the newer cars (okay, probably the last 20 years) there is
multi-stage fuel injection, with the first stage being above the blower and
the others plumbed into the intake manifold below it.

Drag racing is all about excess, that's why I still find it fascinating. In
a top-fuel engine making 8000 hp, it takes about 900 hp just to drive the
blower.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary McCormick
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 1:38 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Fergus P (AS)O'Farrell
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] quirky supercharger set-up picture, R-16 option?

Isn't this setup kinda backwards, i.e., isn't a supercharger usually
upstream
of the carburetor or fuel injection body, in order to pressurize the
carb/FIB?
I mean, that's why they call 'em blowers, isn't it? This looks like a suck
(as
opposed to blow) arrangement.

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Tue Sep 22 06:10:51 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:10:51 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum up?
Message-ID: <c7d.5588d160.37ea18cb@aol.com>

The problem with E-85 and carbs is the effects of the alcohol on the  
aluminum. As long as the jets are available a regular carb can be jetted for  
E-85. Once jetted for E-85 it will be stupid rich if you put regular gas into  
it. I have considered setting up a pair of SUs for E-85 but that is another  
project I have not found time for. It should be simply a needle change or  
possible nozzle and needle. This could be a good choice for some of the 
stroker  configurations that have quite high compression as the octane rating of 
E-85 is  over 100. 
 
    All that said, for some odd reason it is illegal to  convert a gas car 
to E-85 for street use. Seems fairly silly to me. 
 
keith williams
 
OT PS, The free feral cat clinic spayed and neutered 297 cats this month,  
the second highest ever after 305 two months ago. The group I am working 
with  brought in 112, up from 67 last month. 
 
kw
 
 
In a message dated 9/21/2009 4:51:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
pat at hornesystemstx.com writes:

Dave,

My understanding is that E85 and Gasoline are so  different in their 
requirements that the only way to  use  them  on the same engine is to go 
with FI. I don't think I've ever heard of a  carburetted engine being set 
for E85 even though there are some E75 carbs  listed on the net.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake dave, On 9/21/2009  5:47 PM:
> Andy, That car is injected, correct?  I was wondering if  it' possible to
> rejet carbs for E85 and gasoline, or are they that  different you would 
need
> to pick one.  I don't think we have E85  in the Northeast anyway.
>
> Dave Brisco
>  ECR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Embarq Customer  [mailto:andycost at embarqmail.com] 
> Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009  2:13 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re:  [Roadsters] What is in todays fuel that makes everything gum
>  up?
>
> I just swapped the Race car over to E85.  It is 105  octane.  It also 
cleans
> everything spotless.
>
>  Andy
> ________________________________________
> Support  Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are  subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing  list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
>
>    

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice   5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com     Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for  Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT  --
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Tue Sep 22 07:22:34 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:22:34 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
(tailites, wing, body kit, rear window metal flashing)

Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall cutting, which is no
surprise.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Tue Sep 22 07:50:47 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:50:47 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <002501ca3b8b$b0fd6590$12f830b0$@net>

  Firewall, what firewall?  Might be fun to run once or twice down the drag
strip.  Kind of like a moped; fun to ride, but you wouldn't want your
friends to see you on it!  Almost looks like a Mustang II Cobra prototype.


-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of O'Farrell, Fergus P 

There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
(tailites, wing, body kit, rear window metal flashing)

Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall cutting, which is no
surprise.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html
________________________________________

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 09:09:36 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:09:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <001201ca3b96$b38dd370$1aa97a50$@net>

I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I gotta
say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
Fergus P (AS)
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:23 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad

There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
(tailites, wing, body kit, rear window metal flashing)

Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall cutting, which is no
surprise.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 09:22:48 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:22:48 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <001201ca3b96$b38dd370$1aa97a50$@net>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<001201ca3b96$b38dd370$1aa97a50$@net>
Message-ID: <4AB8EBC8.5080700@socal.rr.com>

Come on!  That thing is AWESOME!  I totally want that car.  It will make 
up for my small... ahem, well, you know....   LOL

Eddie

Gordon Glasgow wrote:
> I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I gotta
> say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
> Fergus P (AS)
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:23 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
>
> There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
> scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
> (tailites, wing, body kit, rear window metal flashing)
>
> Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall cutting, which is no
> surprise.
>
> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gkmcc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 22 09:44:35 2009
From: gkmcc at sbcglobal.net (Gary McCormick)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:44:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <001201ca3b96$b38dd370$1aa97a50$@net>
Message-ID: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Looks like someone has been reading too many Japanese comics... ;^)

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA

--- On Tue, 9/22/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
To: "'O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>,
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 8:09 AM

I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I gotta
say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
Fergus P (AS)
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:23 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad

There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
(tailites, wing, body kit, rear window metal flashing)

Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall cutting, which is no
surprise.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as gkmcc at sbcglobal.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From RWM at RWMann.com  Tue Sep 22 09:55:32 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:55:32 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AB8F374.6020501@RWMann.com>

Exactly.  This is "Son of Rodan" styling, par excellence.



Gary McCormick wrote:
> Looks like someone has been reading too many Japanese comics... ;^)
>
> Gary McCormick
> San Jose, CA
>
> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
> To: "'O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>,
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 8:09 AM
>
> I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I gotta
> say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
> Fergus P (AS)
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:23 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
>
> There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
> scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
> (tailites, wing, body kit, rear window metal flashing)
>
> Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall cutting, which is no
> surprise.
>
> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html

From scott8933 at socal.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 10:27:22 2009
From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com (Scott Ulrich)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:27:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <4AB8F374.6020501@RWMann.com>
References: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4AB8F374.6020501@RWMann.com>
Message-ID: <bdfb16710909220927w353311dfx3cb48ab24815abfa@mail.gmail.com>

That's not styling, that pure craftsmanship!

The side pipes are just for show. Most of the exhaust exits via leaks around
the headers and manifold.
Hey, c'mon. The owner could be a list member. Anyone care to get outed?



On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 8:55 AM, RWM <RWM at rwmann.com> wrote:

> Exactly.  This is "Son of Rodan" styling, par excellence.
>
>
> Gary McCormick wrote:
>
>> Looks like someone has been reading too many Japanese comics... ;^)
>>
>> Gary McCormick
>> San Jose, CA
>>
>> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
>> To: "'O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>,
>> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 8:09 AM
>>
>> I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I gotta
>> say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
>>
>> Gordon Glasgow

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 22 11:20:22 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:20:22 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <bdfb16710909220927w353311dfx3cb48ab24815abfa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4AB8F374.6020501@RWMann.com> 
Message-ID: <SNT104-W45E69A44FCB1B3190B58139BDC0@phx.gbl>

Looks to me like they were going for the Cobra look.  Unfortunately it looks
more like a Nash to me, at least from the front.



I can almost smell the exhaust leaks from here.



Dan

> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:27:22 -0700
> From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
>
> That's not styling, that pure craftsmanship!
>
> The side pipes are just for show. Most of the exhaust exits via leaks
around
> the headers and manifold.
> Hey, c'mon. The owner could be a list member. Anyone care to get outed?
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 8:55 AM, RWM <RWM at rwmann.com> wrote:
>
> > Exactly. This is "Son of Rodan" styling, par excellence.
> >
> >
> > Gary McCormick wrote:
> >
> >> Looks like someone has been reading too many Japanese comics... ;^)
> >>
> >> Gary McCormick
> >> San Jose, CA
> >>
> >> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
> >> To: "'O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>,
> >> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> >> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 8:09 AM
> >>
> >> I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I
gotta
> >> say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
> >>
> >> Gordon Glasgow
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
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From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 22 11:56:11 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:56:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W45E69A44FCB1B3190B58139BDC0@phx.gbl>
References: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4AB8F374.6020501@RWMann.com> 
	<SNT104-W45E69A44FCB1B3190B58139BDC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <812221.53588.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

why do these swaps, more often than not, use automatics?

s
675MIZU




________________________________
From: Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
To: Datsun Mailing List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 10:20:22 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  strange body mods, Sacto CL ad

Looks to me like they were going for the Cobra look.  Unfortunately it looks
more like a Nash to me, at least from the front.



I can almost smell the exhaust leaks from here.



Dan

> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:27:22 -0700
> From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
>
> That's not styling, that pure craftsmanship!
>
> The side pipes are just for show. Most of the exhaust exits via leaks
around
> the headers and manifold.
> Hey, c'mon. The owner could be a list member. Anyone care to get outed?
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 8:55 AM, RWM <RWM at rwmann.com> wrote:
>
> > Exactly. This is "Son of Rodan" styling, par excellence.
> >
> >
> > Gary McCormick wrote:
> >
> >> Looks like someone has been reading too many Japanese comics... ;^)
> >>
> >> Gary McCormick
> >> San Jose, CA
> >>
> >> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
> >> To: "'O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>,
> >> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> >> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 8:09 AM
> >>
> >> I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I
gotta
> >> say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
> >>
> >> Gordon Glasgow
                          
_________________________________________________________________
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From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 12:12:32 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:12:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <812221.53588.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <410424.7482.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4AB8F374.6020501@RWMann.com> 
	<SNT104-W45E69A44FCB1B3190B58139BDC0@phx.gbl>
	<812221.53588.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003301ca3bb0$41d0b440$c5721cc0$@net>

Sometimes it's because the big bellhousing makes it necessary to offset the
pedals to the left, leaving little room for the clutch pedal. Besides, the
new automatics they run in hot rods and drag cars are much better than the
old ones and can shift faster than a stick.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steven boortz
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 10:56 AM
To: Dan Kroninger; Datsun Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] FW: strange body mods, Sacto CL ad

why do these swaps, more often than not, use automatics?

s
675MIZU




________________________________
From: Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
To: Datsun Mailing List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 10:20:22 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  strange body mods, Sacto CL ad

Looks to me like they were going for the Cobra look.  Unfortunately it looks
more like a Nash to me, at least from the front.



I can almost smell the exhaust leaks from here.



Dan

> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:27:22 -0700
> From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
>
> That's not styling, that pure craftsmanship!
>
> The side pipes are just for show. Most of the exhaust exits via leaks
around
> the headers and manifold.
> Hey, c'mon. The owner could be a list member. Anyone care to get outed?
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 8:55 AM, RWM <RWM at rwmann.com> wrote:
>
> > Exactly. This is "Son of Rodan" styling, par excellence.
> >
> >
> > Gary McCormick wrote:
> >
> >> Looks like someone has been reading too many Japanese comics... ;^)
> >>
> >> Gary McCormick
> >> San Jose, CA
> >>
> >> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
> >> To: "'O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)'" <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>,
> >> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> >> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 8:09 AM
> >>
> >> I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars, but I
gotta
> >> say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
> >>
> >> Gordon Glasgow
                          
_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
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From aultgc at att.net  Tue Sep 22 13:48:49 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:48:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto CL ad
In-Reply-To: <001201ca3b96$b38dd370$1aa97a50$@net>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030A28BF@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<001201ca3b96$b38dd370$1aa97a50$@net>
Message-ID: <314734.37670.qm@web180211.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

What he said.

Gary



________________________________
From: Gordon Glasgow
<gsglasgow at comcast.net>
To: "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)"
<Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday,
September 22, 2009 10:09:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] strange body mods,
Sacto CL ad

I don't normally criticize what other people do to their cars,
but I gotta
say that is the most hideous mod I have ever seen on a roadster.
Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From:
datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of O'Farrell,
Fergus P (AS)
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:23 AM
To:
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] strange body mods, Sacto
CL ad

There are so many body mods in the pics in this ad that just seem to
scream "STRANGE" that I won't begin to comment.
(tailites, wing, body kit,
rear window metal flashing)

Looks like a 350 requires a lot of firewall
cutting, which is no
surprise.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1386298483.html
Datsun-roadsters mailing
list

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From gsm at gregorysmorrison.com  Tue Sep 22 14:20:01 2009
From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com (Gregory S. Morrison)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:20:01 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
Message-ID: <C6DE7F81.1CED5%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>

Maybe that one could lead off a new thread of Odd Looking Roadster pictures.
We already have the Cobra/Nash/? Roadster. Now we need a Roadster camper and
a stretched Roadster limousine, with a hot tub. Any Roadster dragsters with
rails and chutes out there? Roadster pickups anyone? The possibilities are
without limit. Of course this is coming from a guy that considers an
after-market shift knob a MAJOR modification. ;-)

Have fun out there,
Greg 
SRL31100494

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 22 14:28:21 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 15:28:21 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Odd Looking Roadsters
In-Reply-To: <C6DE7F81.1CED5%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
References: <C6DE7F81.1CED5%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W2875CDF9DCD00271B5C2CC9BDC0@phx.gbl>

Can't for get the lifted Datsun roadster mudder.




> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:20:01 -0700
> From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
>
> Maybe that one could lead off a new thread of Odd Looking Roadster
pictures.
> We already have the Cobra/Nash/? Roadster. Now we need a Roadster camper
and
> a stretched Roadster limousine, with a hot tub. Any Roadster dragsters with
> rails and chutes out there? Roadster pickups anyone? The possibilities are
> without limit. Of course this is coming from a guy that considers an
> after-market shift knob a MAJOR modification. ;-)
>
> Have fun out there,
> Greg
> SRL31100494
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
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From sandhoff at csus.edu  Tue Sep 22 14:45:35 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:45:35 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
In-Reply-To: <C6DE7F81.1CED5%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
Message-ID: <4AB8D4FF.11840.1A96C3@localhost>

> ...Now we need a Roadster camper and a stretched Roadster limousine

Back in 2000 Fred Katz created the 4 door suicide stretch edition:

  <http://webpages.csus.edu/~sandhoff/stretch.jpg>

Fred, are you up for making a pop-top camper edition? :-)

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From nmleeds at mindspring.com  Tue Sep 22 15:04:30 2009
From: nmleeds at mindspring.com (nmleeds at mindspring.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:04:30 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: EFI, Temp / Atmospheric Pressure Controls
Message-ID: <20943370.1253653470547.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

All,

I was just pondering (rather than putting the head back on my Datsun) and wondering, how do EFI systems compensate for fuel tempurature and atmospheric pressure.  Both should change the volume of the fuel relative to air mass and change the mixture.  Is there an adjustment, or does it not matter that much?

Nathaniel

From haabu at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 22 15:18:14 2009
From: haabu at sbcglobal.net (Herb Petty)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:18:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
Message-ID: <902195.91564.qm@web81807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder folks.           Besides, we're here to
be friends !!
 
This is what makes us so great,    the car isn't important     friends are 
!!        
 
     Herb Petty from Modesto Ca.

From gkmcc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 22 15:20:29 2009
From: gkmcc at sbcglobal.net (Gary McCormick)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
In-Reply-To: <4AB8D4FF.11840.1A96C3@localhost>
Message-ID: <781653.56598.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

With killer doors, no less!

Isn't Photoshop wonderful?

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA

--- On Tue, 9/22/09, John F Sandhoff <sandhoff at csus.edu> wrote:

From: John F Sandhoff <sandhoff at csus.edu>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 1:45 PM

> ...Now we need a Roadster camper and a stretched Roadster limousine

Back in 2000 Fred Katz created the 4 door suicide stretch edition:

  <http://webpages.csus.edu/~sandhoff/stretch.jpg>

Fred, are you up for making a pop-top camper edition? :-)

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
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From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 22 15:46:54 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:46:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: EFI, Temp / Atmospheric Pressure Controls
In-Reply-To: <20943370.1253653470547.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <20943370.1253653470547.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <210742.41874.qm@web36301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm not aware that any EFI systems compensate for fuel temperature.  Most do
however, have an IAT sensor (intake air temperature).  They also compensate
for atmospheric pressure with a MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) or a
MAF sensor (mass air flow).  
Gary 


From: "nmleeds at mindspring.com"
<nmleeds at mindspring.com>
To: Datsun Mailing List
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 3:04:30 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: EFI, Temp / Atmospheric Pressure Controls

All,

I
was just pondering (rather than putting the head back on my Datsun) and
wondering, how do EFI systems compensate for fuel tempurature and atmospheric
pressure.  Both should change the volume of the fuel relative to air mass and
change the mixture.  Is there an adjustment, or does it not matter that much?
Nathaniel

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 15:51:04 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:51:04 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <902195.91564.qm@web81807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <902195.91564.qm@web81807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002b01ca3bce$c93b7820$5bb26860$@net>

I absolutely agree with Herb. If the owner of that swap feels great driving
around in it, more power to him.

But I still hafta just shake my head and quote Dr. Phil - "What were you
thinkin'?"

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Petty
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:18 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder folks.           Besides, we're here to
be friends !!
 
This is what makes us so great,    the car isn't important     friends are 
!!        
 
     Herb Petty from Modesto Ca.
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From 9laser3 at bright.net  Tue Sep 22 15:58:50 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:58:50 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
In-Reply-To: <4AB8D4FF.11840.1A96C3@localhost>
References: <C6DE7F81.1CED5%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
	<4AB8D4FF.11840.1A96C3@localhost>
Message-ID: <000d01ca3bcf$df494330$9ddbc990$@net>

  I was hoping somebody had saved Fred's 2+2.  I'd love to see a roadster
wagon.

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John F
Sandhoff
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 4:46 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters

> ...Now we need a Roadster camper and a stretched Roadster limousine

Back in 2000 Fred Katz created the 4 door suicide stretch edition:

  <http://webpages.csus.edu/~sandhoff/stretch.jpg>

Fred, are you up for making a pop-top camper edition? :-)

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
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From mkiisupra at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 22 16:06:20 2009
From: mkiisupra at hotmail.com (Eric Gillis)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 22:06:20 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <002b01ca3bce$c93b7820$5bb26860$@net>
References: <902195.91564.qm@web81807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<002b01ca3bce$c93b7820$5bb26860$@net>
Message-ID: <COL116-W611AAE7918020ED59ADACFACDC0@phx.gbl>

Listers-



Ditto that from Herb and Gordon, but does this mean I keep plans for a
CJ5/Roadster (not mudder, just 4wd) to myself?  We coulda' used one on our
Minden run last weekend in places...


Eric



ps, I thought that Katz's creation was real and not p'shopped.  And anyone
worried about that aftermarket Empi steering wheel not being 'correct' can
ship it to me, I will reimburse your shipping and even give you $20 for it ;)




> From: gsglasgow at comcast.net
> To: haabu at sbcglobal.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:51:04 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> I absolutely agree with Herb. If the owner of that swap feels great driving
> around in it, more power to him.
>
> But I still hafta just shake my head and quote Dr. Phil - "What were you
> thinkin'?"
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Petty
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:18 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder folks. Besides, we're here to
> be friends !!
>
> This is what makes us so great, the car isn't important friends are
> !!
>
> Herb Petty from Modesto Ca.
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mkiisupra at hotmail.com
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

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From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 16:12:30 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 15:12:30 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
In-Reply-To: <000d01ca3bcf$df494330$9ddbc990$@net>
References: <C6DE7F81.1CED5%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
	<4AB8D4FF.11840.1A96C3@localhost>
	<000d01ca3bcf$df494330$9ddbc990$@net>
Message-ID: <003101ca3bd1$c85815a0$590840e0$@net>

Sorta like a Volvo P1800ES or an MGB/GT, right? I could see that. The angle
of the rear panel would probably work well for that.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:59 PM
To: 'John F Sandhoff'; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters

  I was hoping somebody had saved Fred's 2+2.  I'd love to see a roadster
wagon.

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John F
Sandhoff
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 4:46 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters

> ...Now we need a Roadster camper and a stretched Roadster limousine

Back in 2000 Fred Katz created the 4 door suicide stretch edition:

  <http://webpages.csus.edu/~sandhoff/stretch.jpg>

Fred, are you up for making a pop-top camper edition? :-)

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
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From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 16:14:06 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 15:14:06 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <COL116-W611AAE7918020ED59ADACFACDC0@phx.gbl>
References: <902195.91564.qm@web81807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<002b01ca3bce$c93b7820$5bb26860$@net>
	<COL116-W611AAE7918020ED59ADACFACDC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003201ca3bd2$008caa30$01a5fe90$@net>

Once in Grants Pass, OR, I saw a Nash Metropolitan body on a Jeep chassis.
It was great! It just made you smile.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 3:06 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends

Listers-



Ditto that from Herb and Gordon, but does this mean I keep plans for a
CJ5/Roadster (not mudder, just 4wd) to myself?  We coulda' used one on our
Minden run last weekend in places...


Eric



ps, I thought that Katz's creation was real and not p'shopped.  And anyone
worried about that aftermarket Empi steering wheel not being 'correct' can
ship it to me, I will reimburse your shipping and even give you $20 for it
;)




> From: gsglasgow at comcast.net
> To: haabu at sbcglobal.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:51:04 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> I absolutely agree with Herb. If the owner of that swap feels great
driving
> around in it, more power to him.
>
> But I still hafta just shake my head and quote Dr. Phil - "What were you
> thinkin'?"
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Petty
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:18 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder folks. Besides, we're here to
> be friends !!
>
> This is what makes us so great, the car isn't important friends are
> !!
>
> Herb Petty from Modesto Ca.
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mkiisupra at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

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From chalsted at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 16:27:08 2009
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 22:27:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends now CJ5 conversion
In-Reply-To: <COL116-W611AAE7918020ED59ADACFACDC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2046560405.5986611253658428605.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

if I recall correctly, there's less than an inch different in the
wheelbases... don't ask me why I would knowB  ;-)

Craig

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 19:31:18 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 18:31:18 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
In-Reply-To: <781653.56598.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <781653.56598.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AB97A66.5020806@socal.rr.com>

There is something about that 4 door that looks kind of cool actually....

Eddie

Gary McCormick wrote:
> With killer doors, no less!
>
> Isn't Photoshop wonderful?
>
> Gary McCormick
> San Jose, CA
>
> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, John F Sandhoff <sandhoff at csus.edu> wrote:
>
> From: John F Sandhoff <sandhoff at csus.edu>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Odd Looking Roadsters
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 1:45 PM
>
>   
>> ...Now we need a Roadster camper and a stretched Roadster limousine
>>     
>
> Back in 2000 Fred Katz created the 4 door suicide stretch edition:
>
>   <http://webpages.csus.edu/~sandhoff/stretch.jpg>
>
> Fred, are you up for making a pop-top camper edition? :-)
>
> -- John
>      John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
> You are subscribed as gkmcc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>
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From howard at everythingchristmas.com.au  Tue Sep 22 22:54:36 2009
From: howard at everythingchristmas.com.au (Howard @ Everything Christmas)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 14:54:36 +1000
Subject: [Roadsters] Water Pump Pulley
References: <500034.40438.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0F8068BD0867443F9132D6D12E236A85@DesktopFromT>

Thanks Steve,

Will look at that chev unit.

6.5 inches looks good.

The amount of power that your friend's engine is using and the length of 
events are also variables, I dont have problems at lower revs or on a Dyno.

Also thanks to all who answered direct to my email.

Best Regards,

Howard

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Jacobson" <jake7140 at yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Water Pump Pulley


> Howard,
> We use a SB Chevy unit on the 1600.  You can get a alum one from local 
> parts
> store or Summit part# SUM-G3963 ~$31.  Big hole is OK, but will need to 
> drill
> new holes for the pump flange.  Can then also use std water pump spacer 
> shims
> if needed.  There is one for the short neck and one for the long neck SB
> pumps, this I think os for the short necks.  Overall depth about 2.5-3", 6 
> or
> 6.5 inch diam.  USes ~3/8" belt.
>
> Just talked to a local 2L roadster racer this weekend, he runs fine with a 
> C&R
> radiator, stock pulley, says he never uses the fan. C&R wanted him to run
> stock pulley??? Some ducting in the grill to keep the air in.
>
>
> Steve
>
>
> Steve's Racing web site
>
>  www.NoNameRacing.com
>
> Elkhart Lake Racing & Sipping Society
>
>  www.elrss.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Howard @
> Everything Christmas
> Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 1:58 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley
>
> Hi All,
>
> Does anyone know where I can purchase a Large Diameter Water Pump Pulley.
> Preferably not for a Kings Randsom
>
> I need to slow down the water pump to try and get my engine cooler on a
> Solex
> Equipped U20 engine on my Race Car.
> I am already using a 4 core radiator and ducting to direct the air 
> straight
> into the radiator. I need to pull the water temp back 20 degrees c or so.
> and
> this is one step....

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Wed Sep 23 06:07:22 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:07:22 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: EFI, Temp / Atmospheric Pressure Controls
Message-ID: <cbd.49eba694.37eb697a@aol.com>

I don't think it matters enough. The modern FI is a closed loop system  
using the oxygen sensor to measure the exhaust gases. As long as the various  
sensors are close enough to get the system to capture and go closed loop it 
will  work fine. The problem you have is when a sensor goes bad and the O2 
circuit  does not have enough authority to compensate. Then you run 
chronically rich or  lean and the "check engine" light comes on. Checking the fuel 
temp would be  fairly easy and if you were running an open loop system you 
might want to. The  later British SU carbs did actually measure fuel temp and 
compensate.
 
keith williams
 
 
In a message dated 9/22/2009 2:52:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
gboone70 at yahoo.com writes:

I'm not  aware that any EFI systems compensate for fuel temperature.  Most  
do
however, have an IAT sensor (intake air temperature).  They also  compensate
for atmospheric pressure with a MAP sensor (manifold absolute  pressure) or 
a
MAF sensor (mass air flow).  
Gary 


From:  "nmleeds at mindspring.com"
<nmleeds at mindspring.com>
To: Datsun  Mailing List
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday,  September 22, 2009 3:04:30 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: EFI, Temp /  Atmospheric Pressure Controls

All,

I
was just pondering  (rather than putting the head back on my Datsun) and
wondering, how do EFI  systems compensate for fuel tempurature and 
atmospheric
pressure.   Both should change the volume of the fuel relative to air mass 
and
change  the mixture.  Is there an adjustment, or does it not matter that  
much?
Nathaniel
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From ericerichoffman at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 08:23:17 2009
From: ericerichoffman at yahoo.com (Eric Hoffman)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:23:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] o/t san joaquin valley
Message-ID: <992086.43648.qm@web36907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Please forgive the off topic, I know a lot of you guys are in S. California
and I was wondering your opinion of the self inflicted drought in the name of
saving the two inch Delta Smelt.  Apparently the water is now diverted to the
sea, farmers are going under, and produce is going up.  Just wondering what's
the deal.

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Wed Sep 23 08:27:32 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:27:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] o/t san joaquin valley
In-Reply-To: <992086.43648.qm@web36907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <992086.43648.qm@web36907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ABA3054.3060405@socal.rr.com>

We don't have a "water shortage" problem.  We have a "water 
mismanagement problem".  The amount of water that is wasted by diverting 
it into rivers that then lead to the ocean is astounding.  Furthermore, 
the amount of water we waste AND pollute by using it just to flush our 
toilets is criminal.  Some day, we may look at all flush toilets the way 
we used to look at the old style flush johns that used 10 gallons per 
flush.  Stupid and wasteful.  There are better ways, more 
environmentally responsible ways to dispose of human waste...

Don't even get me started....

Eddie

Eric Hoffman wrote:
> Please forgive the off topic, I know a lot of you guys are in S. California
> and I was wondering your opinion of the self inflicted drought in the name of
> saving the two inch Delta Smelt.  Apparently the water is now diverted to the
> sea, farmers are going under, and produce is going up.  Just wondering what's
> the deal.
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
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>
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>
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From ericerichoffman at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 08:53:31 2009
From: ericerichoffman at yahoo.com (Eric Hoffman)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:53:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] california water
Message-ID: <200032.96009.qm@web36906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm all for efficient sewage disposall, I am wondering why there is not more
opinion among Californians that farmers and crops are more important than a
two inch fish.  I'm trying to understand what is going through the minds of
lawmakers.  Again, the water is not conserved it's being sent to the sea. 
Anyone?

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 08:53:39 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:53:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] o/t san joaquin valley
In-Reply-To: <992086.43648.qm@web36907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <992086.43648.qm@web36907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <26372.18450.qm@web81408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

how can a drought be "self inflicted?"  the diversion of the water is a separate issue from whether it rains, IMHO.

s
675MIZU




________________________________
From: Eric Hoffman <ericerichoffman at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 7:23:17 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] o/t san joaquin valley

Please forgive the off topic, I know a lot of you guys are in S. California
and I was wondering your opinion of the self inflicted drought in the name of
saving the two inch Delta Smelt.  Apparently the water is now diverted to the
sea, farmers are going under, and produce is going up.  Just wondering what's
the deal.
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From ericerichoffman at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 09:07:35 2009
From: ericerichoffman at yahoo.com (Eric Hoffman)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:07:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] slef inflicted question
Message-ID: <322169.98509.qm@web36905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What I just read is that water formerly diverted to the valley for crops is
now being sent to the sea in an effort to save an endangered two inch fish. 
Thats the self inflicted part.

From phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov  Wed Sep 23 09:12:33 2009
From: phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov (Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ED10))
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 10:12:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] california water
In-Reply-To: <200032.96009.qm@web36906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <200032.96009.qm@web36906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C7F293DA5D3422438B898BAC711427A83D12ED2F33@NDMSSCC06.ndc.nasa.gov>

I saw a report that said the reason the salmon population had tanked was
because the fish was not getting to the sea for the salmon to feed on - so the
water is dumped into the sea vs used to water crops.  I personally don't think
this argument holds - it takes more than these few cannels of water and the
related little fish to sustain the salmon population.  Looks like a way to
'point' away from the issue/bad decision.

Phil Hall
NASA/MSFC/ED10
Systems Engineering
work :   256-544-2525
cell:    256-975-6385


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Hoffman
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:54 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] california water

I'm all for efficient sewage disposall, I am wondering why there is not more
opinion among Californians that farmers and crops are more important than a
two inch fish.  I'm trying to understand what is going through the minds of
lawmakers.  Again, the water is not conserved it's being sent to the sea.
Anyone?
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From tputland at charter.net  Wed Sep 23 09:37:18 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:37:18 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] california water
In-Reply-To: <C7F293DA5D3422438B898BAC711427A83D12ED2F33@NDMSSCC06.ndc.nasa.gov>
Message-ID: <20090923113718.EGQHT.5777027.root@mp13>

I am far from an expert here, but, having grown up in Northern CA, I can accurately say that poor snow fall amounts and poor snow quality (ie water content) in the Sierras have one of the biggest effects on the southern ca water situation. 

Why didn't the powers that be make that two different states way back when. That is a whole other argument. 

Can we get back to Roadster content now please?!!

Tim


---- "Hall wrote: 

=============
I saw a report that said the reason the salmon population had tanked was
because the fish was not getting to the sea for the salmon to feed on - so the
water is dumped into the sea vs used to water crops.  I personally don't think
this argument holds - it takes more than these few cannels of water and the
related little fish to sustain the salmon population.  Looks like a way to
'point' away from the issue/bad decision.

Phil Hall
NASA/MSFC/ED10
Systems Engineering
work :   256-544-2525
cell:    256-975-6385


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Hoffman
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:54 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] california water

I'm all for efficient sewage disposall, I am wondering why there is not more
opinion among Californians that farmers and crops are more important than a
two inch fish.  I'm trying to understand what is going through the minds of
lawmakers.  Again, the water is not conserved it's being sent to the sea.
Anyone?
You are subscribed as phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov

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From Frank.L.May at umsl.edu  Wed Sep 23 09:53:42 2009
From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu (May, Frank)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 10:53:42 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] california water
References: <20090923113718.EGQHT.5777027.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596FEE@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>

There's "off topic" and then again, there's OFF TOPIC (can you smell
SPAM?)........  I agree with Tim.....back to roadster content....

Frank

________________________________

From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of Tim
Sent: Wed 9/23/2009 10:37 AM
To: Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ED10); datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Eric
Hoffman
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] california water



I am far from an expert here, but, having grown up in Northern CA, I can
accurately say that poor snow fall amounts and poor snow quality (ie water
content) in the Sierras have one of the biggest effects on the southern ca
water situation.

Why didn't the powers that be make that two different states way back when.
That is a whole other argument.

Can we get back to Roadster content now please?!!

Tim


---- "Hall wrote:

=============
I saw a report that said the reason the salmon population had tanked was
because the fish was not getting to the sea for the salmon to feed on - so
the
water is dumped into the sea vs used to water crops.  I personally don't
think
this argument holds - it takes more than these few cannels of water and the
related little fish to sustain the salmon population.  Looks like a way to
'point' away from the issue/bad decision.

Phil Hall
NASA/MSFC/ED10
Systems Engineering
work :   256-544-2525
cell:    256-975-6385


-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Hoffman
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:54 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] california water

I'm all for efficient sewage disposall, I am wondering why there is not more
opinion among Californians that farmers and crops are more important than a
two inch fish.  I'm trying to understand what is going through the minds of
lawmakers.  Again, the water is not conserved it's being sent to the sea.
Anyone?
You are subscribed as phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov

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From sandhoff at csus.edu  Wed Sep 23 09:59:59 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:59:59 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Water wars: back on track, please...
Message-ID: <4AB9E38F.7858.200F94@localhost>

As is true of so many things, water management issues are
complex and tossing out 'sound bites' unfairly minimalizes the
difficult decisions involved.

That said, can we back away from this decidedly non-Roadster
issue?

Thank you,

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From nmleeds at mindspring.com  Wed Sep 23 10:07:30 2009
From: nmleeds at mindspring.com (nmleeds at mindspring.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:07:30 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: California Water Management
Message-ID: <20666485.1253722050832.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

The question is why water is being flushed out to sea and what that has to do with saving fish.  I worked -- very briefly -- with some of these regulations and can explain a little bit.  The problem is water flows and tempurature.  Fast, deep water is cooler than slow shallow water (simple physics: more surface area and more time in the sun, and water heats up).  Many fish are very sensitive to these tempuratures.

Unfortunately,during hot times in year, the fish need good flows so they don't get cooked in the streamsl at the same time farmers want to take as much water out of the streams as they can to water their crops so they don't bake and dry in the sun.  Historically part of this problem could be solved through electricity generation -- when you run the dams, you release water.  But, there's not always enough water in the dams to cool the rivers and you reach an impass.

I would be careful about being too dismissive of the role that really small fish (the ones must likely to get cooked) play in the ecosystem.  There are a lot of really small animals that are really really important for the health of the entire enviroment -- and our economy. (Anyone in the central valley can appreciate the importance of bees, and the concerns about colony collapse.) Also, delta smelt tend to be a pretty good proxy of for the health of the delta as a whole.  When the delta is messed up, we don't get salmon in the ocean . . . 

So there's my two cents.  Difficult problem.  I'm pretty conservative when it comes to this stuff so I generally favor keeping the enviroment intact, but I can see the other view.  I understand that others aren't as conservative. 





-----Original Message-----
>From: Eric Hoffman <ericerichoffman at yahoo.com>
>Sent: Sep 23, 2009 7:53 AM
>To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Roadsters] california water
>
>I'm all for efficient sewage disposall, I am wondering why there is not more
>opinion among Californians that farmers and crops are more important than a
>two inch fish.  I'm trying to understand what is going through the minds of
>lawmakers.  Again, the water is not conserved it's being sent to the sea. 
>Anyone?
>________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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From ericerichoffman at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 10:18:37 2009
From: ericerichoffman at yahoo.com (Eric Hoffman)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:18:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] my appolgies for o/t but this aint spam
Message-ID: <773546.56761.qm@web36902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just wanted to hear from Californians.

From jeffzster at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 10:41:07 2009
From: jeffzster at yahoo.com (Jeff Torres)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:41:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!
Message-ID: <237674.53501.qm@web110412.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

To all,
 
I was just cruising Ebay and I noticed a guy from India selling copies of my
Datsun Roadster Grille Badge for $20 plus $13 for shipping from India. I guess
I can do nothing about this, but I do know that they are cheap copies and
nowhere near the quality of my personal badges. Soooo..if you order one and
get crap..It wasn't from me.
 
I was looking into a supplier for my badges about a year ago and sent this guy
a copy for a mold. He sent me back his best prototype offer which was junk and
I guess has decided now to market these.
 
Anyway, just wanted to let everyone know that it is NOT a "Roadster
Collectible" badge and to please not bash my company if you do get it and find
that it is far less in qaulity.
 
Isn't it sad that pathetic people have to leach other peoples ideas because
they have no imagination and ingenuity of their own, and ruin it for others? 
 
Jeff Torres
'66 1600
Lemoore, CA
 
 

From chalsted at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 10:46:22 2009
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:46:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] factory radio delete panel 68-70
Message-ID: <944385431.6340041253724382694.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

was wondering if anyone has everB come acrossB a factory radio delete panel
for the 68 to 70 roadsters... I have one here but it's the only one I've ever
seen... I thought about e-baying it but figure it wouldn't bring crap and
might just as well keep it as a conversation piece

Craig

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 23 11:22:19 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 12:22:19 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  factory radio delete panel 68-70
In-Reply-To: <944385431.6340041253724382694.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <944385431.6340041253724382694.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W103CBD8B568E6F170667839BDB0@phx.gbl>

Craig,



That is really ironic.  I was just looking at the owners manual for the 68
1600 today on the 311s site and noticed that the radio was an optional item,
and I was wondering what they did in place of the radio.  I guess that answers
that question.  I don't know if it would be worth a lot of money of not, but I
imagine that it is one of the more rare things to find on a stock roadster.
It is pretty cool that you happen to have one.



Dan

> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:46:22 +0000
> From: chalsted at comcast.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] factory radio delete panel 68-70
>
> was wondering if anyone has everB come acrossB a factory radio delete panel
> for the 68 to 70 roadsters... I have one here but it's the only one I've
ever
> seen... I thought about e-baying it but figure it wouldn't bring crap and
> might just as well keep it as a conversation piece
>
> Craig
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Bing  brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.   Try it
now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M
LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1

From tminerpcav at aol.com  Wed Sep 23 11:43:15 2009
From: tminerpcav at aol.com (tminerpcav at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 13:43:15 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!
In-Reply-To: <237674.53501.qm@web110412.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <237674.53501.qm@web110412.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC0A8C768D432B-18A0-150D1@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>

GREAT!? Now, what am I to do with the 1,000 pieces I ordered?



Tim Miner


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Torres <jeffzster at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun Roadster Mail <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 9:41 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!




To all,
 
I was just cruising Ebay and I noticed a guy from India selling copies of my
Datsun Roadster Grille Badge for $20 plus $13 for shipping from India. I guess
I can do nothing about this, but I do know that they are cheap copies and
nowhere near the quality of my personal badges. Soooo..if you order one and
get crap..It wasn't from me.
 
I was looking into a supplier for my badges about a year ago and sent this guy
a copy for a mold. He sent me back his best prototype offer which was junk and
I guess has decided now to market these.
 
Anyway, just wanted to let everyone know that it is NOT a "Roadster
Collectible" badge and to please not bash my company if you do get it and find
that it is far less in qaulity.
 
Isn't it sad that pathetic people have to leach other peoples ideas because
they have no imagination and ingenuity of their own, and ruin it for others? 
 
Jeff Torres
'66 1600
Lemoore, CA
You are subscribed as tminerpcav at aol.com

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From joek at camberconstruction.com  Wed Sep 23 12:10:06 2009
From: joek at camberconstruction.com (Joe Kinstle)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:10:06 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!
In-Reply-To: <8CC0A8C768D432B-18A0-150D1@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <237674.53501.qm@web110412.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<8CC0A8C768D432B-18A0-150D1@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CD4EE9C9DC764260AE79E44A0AF79D50@lapjoek>

Sell 'em on ebay

Joe Kinstle
'68 2L

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
tminerpcav at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 10:43 AM
To: jeffzster at yahoo.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!

GREAT!? Now, what am I to do with the 1,000 pieces I ordered?



Tim Miner


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Torres <jeffzster at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun Roadster Mail <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 9:41 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!




To all,
 
I was just cruising Ebay and I noticed a guy from India selling copies of my
Datsun Roadster Grille Badge for $20 plus $13 for shipping from India. I
guess
I can do nothing about this, but I do know that they are cheap copies and
nowhere near the quality of my personal badges. Soooo..if you order one and
get crap..It wasn't from me.
 
I was looking into a supplier for my badges about a year ago and sent this
guy
a copy for a mold. He sent me back his best prototype offer which was junk
and
I guess has decided now to market these.
 
Anyway, just wanted to let everyone know that it is NOT a "Roadster
Collectible" badge and to please not bash my company if you do get it and
find
that it is far less in qaulity.
 
Isn't it sad that pathetic people have to leach other peoples ideas because
they have no imagination and ingenuity of their own, and ruin it for others?

 
Jeff Torres
'66 1600
Lemoore, CA
You are subscribed as tminerpcav at aol.com

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http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Wed Sep 23 12:22:21 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 13:22:21 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030D32BA@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

Tim,
I see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.

1.	Hot glue gun, and cover my whole car with them, making it an art
car but worsening the appearance only slightly.
2.	The same hot glue gun, make a dam, impede water flow somewhere,
and save some California smelt.

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Sep 23 12:27:36 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:27:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!
In-Reply-To: <8CC0A8C768D432B-18A0-150D1@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090923142736.JPTU5.5790408.root@mp13>

Stick them on the shop floor with an epoxy coating? That would make a cool shop floor!

Tim

---- tminerpcav at aol.com wrote: 

=============
GREAT!? Now, what am I to do with the 1,000 pieces I ordered?



Tim Miner


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Torres <jeffzster at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun Roadster Mail <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 9:41 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Ebay Warning!!!




To all,
 
I was just cruising Ebay and I noticed a guy from India selling copies of my
Datsun Roadster Grille Badge for $20 plus $13 for shipping from India. I guess
I can do nothing about this, but I do know that they are cheap copies and
nowhere near the quality of my personal badges. Soooo..if you order one and
get crap..It wasn't from me.
 
I was looking into a supplier for my badges about a year ago and sent this guy
a copy for a mold. He sent me back his best prototype offer which was junk and
I guess has decided now to market these.
 
Anyway, just wanted to let everyone know that it is NOT a "Roadster
Collectible" badge and to please not bash my company if you do get it and find
that it is far less in qaulity.
 
Isn't it sad that pathetic people have to leach other peoples ideas because
they have no imagination and ingenuity of their own, and ruin it for others? 
 
Jeff Torres
'66 1600
Lemoore, CA
You are subscribed as tminerpcav at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From tminerpcav at aol.com  Wed Sep 23 12:28:18 2009
From: tminerpcav at aol.com (tminerpcav at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 14:28:18 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030D32BA@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030D32BA@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <8CC0A92C16D7E79-C34-A84E@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

Folks, 



Contrary to popular belief, Fergus is NOT the face of stupid (as evidenced by this brilliant solution)!



Tim Miner


-----Original Message-----
From: O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; tminerpcav at aol.com
Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 11:22 am
Subject: the 1000 pieces




Tim,

I see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.

1.????? Hot glue gun, and cover my whole car with them, making it an art car but worsening the appearance only slightly.

2.????? The same hot glue gun, make a dam, impede water flow somewhere, and save some California smelt.

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Sep 23 12:47:22 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:47:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
In-Reply-To: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030D32BA@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <20090923144722.0OJSE.5791838.root@mp13>

SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT


---- "O'Farrell wrote: 

=============
Tim,
I see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.

1.	Hot glue gun, and cover my whole car with them, making it an art
car but worsening the appearance only slightly.
2.	The same hot glue gun, make a dam, impede water flow somewhere,
and save some California smelt.
You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 23 12:57:22 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 13:57:22 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  the 1000 pieces
In-Reply-To: <20090923144722.0OJSE.5791838.root@mp13>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030D32BA@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W291A58C257AE980E8FCB059BDB0@phx.gbl>

I believe that the important thing to remember here is...



...He who smelt it, dealt it



Sorry, I had too.

> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:47:22 -0700
> From: tputland at charter.net
> To: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com; tminerpcav at aol.com;
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
>
> SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT
>
>
> ---- "O'Farrell wrote:
>
> =============
> Tim,
> I see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.
>
> 1. Hot glue gun, and cover my whole car with them, making it an art
> car but worsening the appearance only slightly.
> 2. The same hot glue gun, make a dam, impede water flow somewhere,
> and save some California smelt.
> You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage_062009

From timbob_fisher at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 13:01:28 2009
From: timbob_fisher at yahoo.com (tim fisher)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 12:01:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
In-Reply-To: <20090923144722.0OJSE.5791838.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <551149.1665.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Please, too much OT.....

"Sweet old, racing car of mine,
 Roaring down that
broken line,
 I've never felt so much alive,
 Too fast for comfort,
 Too low
to fly,
 Too young to die."

                --David Crosby



--- On Wed,
9/23/09, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
> To: "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)"
<Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>, tminerpcav at aol.com, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009, 1:47 PM
> SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT
SAVE
> THE SMELT
> 
> 
> ---- "O'Farrell wrote: 
> 
> =============
> Tim,
> I
see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.
> 
> 1.    Hot glue gun,
and cover my whole car
> with them, making it an art
> car but worsening the
appearance only slightly.
> 2.    The same hot glue gun, make a dam,
> impede
water flow somewhere,
> and save some California smelt.
> You are subscribed
as tputland at charter.net
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
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> 
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From mkiisupra at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 23 13:06:36 2009
From: mkiisupra at hotmail.com (Eric Gillis)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 19:06:36 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  the 1000 pieces
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W291A58C257AE980E8FCB059BDB0@phx.gbl>
References: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F8451030D32BA@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>
	<SNT104-W291A58C257AE980E8FCB059BDB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL116-W59D5AD20AE47DCC08D58F0ACDB0@phx.gbl>

And as my then-10-year-old nephew says, 'Whoever did the rhyme, did the
crime.'



Only kinda sorry, but I had to.



Roadster content, I had a great time on the Minden Run!!!



Eric G

> From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 13:57:22 -0500
> Subject: [Roadsters] FW: the 1000 pieces
>
> I believe that the important thing to remember here is...
>
>
>
> ...He who smelt it, dealt it
>
>
>
> Sorry, I had too.
>
> > Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:47:22 -0700
> > From: tputland at charter.net
> > To: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com; tminerpcav at aol.com;
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
> >
> > SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT SAVE THE SMELT
> >
> >
> > ---- "O'Farrell wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > Tim,
> > I see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.
> >
> > 1. Hot glue gun, and cover my whole car with them, making it an art
> > car but worsening the appearance only slightly.
> > 2. The same hot glue gun, make a dam, impede water flow somewhere,
> > and save some California smelt.
> > You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
>
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
> _Storage_062009
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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From sandhoff at csus.edu  Wed Sep 23 13:27:15 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 12:27:15 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering box repair?
Message-ID: <4ABA1423.23382.DDFAF7@localhost>

I recall it's been discussed in the past, but I need an update of
who's out there that does steering box repairs. A friend (he's not
on the list) has a '68 2L, box type unknown at the moment, that
is pretty sure his box needs a rebuild. I recall there was at least
one person that had figured out the proper way to rebuild the shafts
after sacrificing a couple boxes to the learning process.

So whoever offers this service, please get in touch and I'll get
the two of you in touch with one another.

Side note: Are people still happy with the rareparts ball joints? He
needs ball joints so I sent him in their direction.

Thanks,

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
        "No delta smelt were harmed in the sending of this email"

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 14:34:07 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:34:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: 510 of BC T-shirts available
In-Reply-To: <184477820.4855601253736515167.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2066798513.4870001253738047227.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

>From the Bluebirds list.....nice design. 

Pete 

----- Forwarded Message ----- 
From: "J John Thiessen" <thiessen.j at shaw.ca> 
To: bluebirds at bluebirds.datsun510.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 12:45:03 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: 510 T-shirts available 

hello list! 

I made up a new 510 shirt for our local crowd and would like to make them available to you as well. 

You can check them out here to see all the details. 




John 
President 
510 Club of BC 

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 16:40:05 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 22:40:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: 510 of BC T-shirts available (with working link)
In-Reply-To: <2066798513.4870001253738047227.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <681795363.4928011253745605505.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

>From the Bluebirds list.....nice design. 

Pete 

----- Forwarded Message ----- 
From: "J John Thiessen" <thiessen.j at shaw.ca> 
To: bluebirds at bluebirds.datsun510.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 12:45:03 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: 510 T-shirts available 

hello list! 

I made up a new 510 shirt for our local crowd and would like to make them available to you as well. 

You can check them out here to see all the details. 

<http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12920>


John 
President 
510 Club of BC 

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 18:50:09 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:50:09 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <003201ca3bd2$008caa30$01a5fe90$@net>
Message-ID: <CA3ADCE15133460D9250011164259F17@delled48909442>

My next project , space and wife permitting, is a Nash Metro on a Roadster
frame, comp suspension and God knows what engine, plenty of hood room.  I
figure it would be look great coming down the hill and through the 90 degree
lefthander at Datsun Hill into Watkins Glen, then punch it down Franklin
Street, minimal muffler, of course.  A Metro that DOESN't roll over in a
tight turn, now that's a head turner.

I like the suicide stretch, real or Photoshop?

Dave Brisco
ECR

-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Glasgow [mailto:gsglasgow at comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:14 PM
To: 'Eric Gillis'; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends

Once in Grants Pass, OR, I saw a Nash Metropolitan body on a Jeep chassis.
It was great! It just made you smile.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 3:06 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends

Listers-



Ditto that from Herb and Gordon, but does this mean I keep plans for a
CJ5/Roadster (not mudder, just 4wd) to myself?  We coulda' used one on our
Minden run last weekend in places...


Eric



ps, I thought that Katz's creation was real and not p'shopped.  And anyone
worried about that aftermarket Empi steering wheel not being 'correct' can
ship it to me, I will reimburse your shipping and even give you $20 for it
;)




> From: gsglasgow at comcast.net
> To: haabu at sbcglobal.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:51:04 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> I absolutely agree with Herb. If the owner of that swap feels great
driving
> around in it, more power to him.
>
> But I still hafta just shake my head and quote Dr. Phil - "What were you
> thinkin'?"
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Petty
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:18 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder folks. Besides, we're here to
> be friends !!
>
> This is what makes us so great, the car isn't important friends are
> !!
>
> Herb Petty from Modesto Ca.
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mkiisupra at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

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From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Wed Sep 23 18:56:53 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (Charles Breault)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:56:53 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <CA3ADCE15133460D9250011164259F17@delled48909442>
References: <003201ca3bd2$008caa30$01a5fe90$@net>
	<CA3ADCE15133460D9250011164259F17@delled48909442>
Message-ID: <56844A234C24499F8E7EEF217D6ABD9D@Home>

You mean that you'll leave the Mini home then?
CharlieB.

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:50 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends

My next project , space and wife permitting, is a Nash Metro on a Roadster
frame, comp suspension and God knows what engine, plenty of hood room.  I
figure it would be look great coming down the hill and through the 90 degree
lefthander at Datsun Hill into Watkins Glen, then punch it down Franklin
Street, minimal muffler, of course.  A Metro that DOESN't roll over in a
tight turn, now that's a head turner.

I like the suicide stretch, real or Photoshop?

Dave Brisco
ECR

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 19:01:10 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:01:10 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] california water
In-Reply-To: <200032.96009.qm@web36906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <80927B0E4D5C4223941920882C1014B7@delled48909442>

My understanding is the endangered Delta Smelt are needed to feed the salmon
in the rivers so they can grow big, swim out to sea and be caught by foreign
fisherman violating the 200 mile limit.  Apparently foreign fishermen are
big campaign donors?

I'm from New Jersey, so this type of politics seems perfectly normal.  My
politicians are discussing contraceptives to control black bears. So some
donor somewhere must be making bear prophylactics.  Personally, I don't
hunt, but I'd rather approach a bear to install a bullet than a condom.

Dave Brisco

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Hoffman [mailto:ericerichoffman at yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 10:54 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] california water

I'm all for efficient sewage disposall, I am wondering why there is not more
opinion among Californians that farmers and crops are more important than a
two inch fish.  I'm trying to understand what is going through the minds of
lawmakers.  Again, the water is not conserved it's being sent to the sea.
Anyone?

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 19:09:38 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:09:38 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the 1000 pieces
In-Reply-To: <8CC0A92C16D7E79-C34-A84E@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6A8DDB45031742F5BB02D3052A66CDCF@delled48909442>

Jury is still out on Fergus. :)  Back on topic, Tiddlywinks?  Or for those
who fish, Dipsy Divers, use them to catch all the salmon, reduce the demand
for Delta Smelt, all is good.

Dave Brisco

-----Original Message-----
From: tminerpcav at aol.com [mailto:tminerpcav at aol.com]
 Folks,



Contrary to popular belief, Fergus is NOT the face of stupid (as evidenced
by this brilliant solution)!



Tim Miner


-----Original Message-----
From: O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS) <Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com>


Tim,

I see two solutions to your 1000 pcs of crappy badges.

1.????? Hot glue gun, and cover my whole car with them, making it an art car
but worsening the appearance only slightly.

2.????? The same hot glue gun, make a dam, impede water flow somewhere, and
save some California smelt.

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 19:29:28 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:29:28 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <56844A234C24499F8E7EEF217D6ABD9D@Home>
Message-ID: <95D3BD698F774839BA95E1F0E3963BBA@delled48909442>

You're a cruel man...Correct, of course, but cruel none the less.  And I saw
you picked out that nice set of blue wires at the raffle...

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Breault [mailto:vze2fhba at verizon.net]
 You mean that you'll leave the Mini home then?
CharlieB.

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[

My next project , space and wife permitting, is a Nash Metro on a Roadster
frame, comp suspension and God knows what engine, plenty of hood room.  I
figure it would be look great coming down the hill and through the 90 degree
lefthander at Datsun Hill into Watkins Glen, then punch it down Franklin
Street, minimal muffler, of course.  A Metro that DOESN't roll over in a
tight turn, now that's a head turner.

I like the suicide stretch, real or Photoshop?

Dave Brisco
ECR

From alagams at juno.com  Wed Sep 23 19:38:19 2009
From: alagams at juno.com (alagams at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:38:19 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
Message-ID: <20090923.213819.13323.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

Ouch!
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYbVhm4BlzQDaCuESRvBZ37xt
OQlbjN7GQndoYtzQvUTfwJUXza/

From aultgc at att.net  Wed Sep 23 20:55:18 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:55:18 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] o/t san joaquin valley
References: <992086.43648.qm@web36907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CDBC914ECF8C4B54B70B9ECF06C6493A@gaxp1>

Eric,

Like Spotted Owl:  "Delta Smelt-- It's what's for dinner."

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Hoffman" <ericerichoffman at yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:23 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] o/t san joaquin valley


> Please forgive the off topic, I know a lot of you guys are in S. 
> California
> and I was wondering your opinion of the self inflicted drought in the name 
> of
> saving the two inch Delta Smelt.  Apparently the water is now diverted to 
> the
> sea, farmers are going under, and produce is going up.  Just wondering 
> what's
> the deal.
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From datsunroadsters at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 24 15:55:27 2009
From: datsunroadsters at yahoo.com (Eddie Wu / SAKE RKT)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:55:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Looking for a dual-reservoir brake master cylinder (Bay
 Area, CA)
In-Reply-To: <681795363.4928011253745605505.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <536990.50199.qm@web111503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello,

Does anyone in the (South) Bay Area, CA have an extra dual-reservoir brake master cylinder off their Roadster that I can check out?

I have the single reservoir cylinder and would like to compare the length of the push rods.

Please contact me if you have one available.

Thanks,
Eddie

From tomuo at comcast.net  Thu Sep 24 21:42:47 2009
From: tomuo at comcast.net (Tom Duffy)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 20:42:47 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Looking for a dual-reservoir brake master cylinder
 (Bay Area, CA)
In-Reply-To: <536990.50199.qm@web111503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <536990.50199.qm@web111503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ABC3C37.5090700@comcast.net>

Darn, I recently threw out the rusty one I had been keeping in a box for 
the last 9 years.
The previous owner had changed it, and the old one came with the car as 
proof
of its condition.
After so long, I couldn't think of a reason to keep it.

Tom.
'68 1600 in Sunnyvale, CA.

Eddie Wu / SAKE RKT wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Does anyone in the (South) Bay Area, CA have an extra dual-reservoir brake master cylinder off their Roadster that I can check out?
>
> I have the single reservoir cylinder and would like to compare the length of the push rods.

From hallosb at juno.com  Fri Sep 25 07:04:57 2009
From: hallosb at juno.com (hallosb at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 13:04:57 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions
Message-ID: <20090925.060457.24230.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>

I know this subject has been beat to death but.....

1. I have two tires with good tread that could be used as a spare, 195/75R14
and 185/75R14. Would either one these work on a stock wheel without rubbing?

2. Also looking for some junk tires to mount on my car while, it's at the body
shop. I found a local tire dealer that will give me some junk tires for free.
All I have to pay is $24 to mount them on my stock rims. What tire sizes will
work?

TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600



____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrEnJrzhZsCleQpxLshd9MpOH
C2MSs2k5LrdywYXjFsA3dPuyv2/

From aultgc at att.net  Fri Sep 25 07:42:05 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 06:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions
In-Reply-To: <20090925.060457.24230.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090925.060457.24230.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <706291.17147.qm@web180214.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Dan,

Either will work as a spare.

The original tire size is 5.60x14, which
is about 142 millimeters wide.  I think anything from that up to 195/XX-14
will be fine for your body shop purposes.  I have heard of people putting
205/XX-14s on the cars, but you'll be safe if you stick to 195 and smaller.
Gary


________________________________
From: "hallosb at juno.com"
<hallosb at juno.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September
25, 2009 8:04:57 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions

I know this subject
has been beat to death but.....

1. I have two tires with good tread that
could be used as a spare, 195/75R14
and 185/75R14. Would either one these work
on a stock wheel without rubbing?

2. Also looking for some junk tires to
mount on my car while, it's at the body
shop. I found a local tire dealer that
will give me some junk tires for free.
All I have to pay is $24 to mount them
on my stock rims. What tire sizes will
work?

TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss
Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrEnJrzhZsCleQpxLshd9MpOH
C2MSs2k5LrdywYXjFsA3dPuyv2/
________________________________________
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From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Fri Sep 25 12:09:27 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:09:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] OT: EFI, Temp / Atmospheric Pressure Controls
References: <20943370.1253653470547.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<210742.41874.qm@web36301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C95AD9B73B154FD89A618DB25220A9A1@Daryl>

I am also not aware of any efi systems which compensate for fuel 
temperature.
A 'speed density' system monitors and adjusts for intake air temperature and 
manifold absolute pressure, calculating the air density and thus the 
required fuel from those.
Engine coolant temperature also is monitored to calculate fuel enrichment 
needed when the engine is cold and the fuel doesn't stay in suspension, 
basicly a 'choke', but adjusts throughout the engine temperature range, I 
believe, as higher engine temps may benefit from the air/fuel being more 
homogenously mixed.

I am not familiar with how a MAF (mass air flow) system works, but the fuel 
calculations are mainly from the 'mass' of the air through the MAF sensor, 
with adjustments for temperature etc......

I have seen 'hotrod' systems which, depending on what is wanted, run the 
fuel through either ice, or a heater.
The heater to have the fuel easier to mix with the air and stay in 
suspension in the airfuel mix (as opposed to adhereing to the runner walls). 
Many who do this are actually trying to get better milage, not more power.
The ice just doesn't make sense to me............

Daryl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Boone" <gboone70 at yahoo.com>


> I'm not aware that any EFI systems compensate for fuel temperature.  Most 
> do
> however, have an IAT sensor (intake air temperature).  They also 
> compensate
> for atmospheric pressure with a MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) or 
> a
> MAF sensor (mass air flow).
> Gary
>
>
> From: "nmleeds at mindspring.com"
> I
> was just pondering (rather than putting the head back on my Datsun) and
> wondering, how do EFI systems compensate for fuel tempurature and 
> atmospheric
> pressure.  Both should change the volume of the fuel relative to air mass 
> and
> change the mixture.  Is there an adjustment, or does it not matter that 
> much?
> Nathaniel

From arthurklin888 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 25 12:20:34 2009
From: arthurklin888 at yahoo.com (arthur lin)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:20:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions
In-Reply-To: <706291.17147.qm@web180214.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <864588.31296.qm@web51006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

can someone respond to tire pressure recommendation? I am running 195/60-14
-Arthur


--- On Fri, 9/25/09, Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net> wrote:


From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Tire questions
To: "hallosb at juno.com" <hallosb at juno.com>, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, September 25, 2009, 6:42 AM


Dan,

Either will work as a spare.

The original tire size is 5.60x14, which
is about 142 millimeters wide.  I think anything from that up to 195/XX-14
will be fine for your body shop purposes.  I have heard of people putting
205/XX-14s on the cars, but you'll be safe if you stick to 195 and smaller.
Gary


________________________________
From: "hallosb at juno.com"
<hallosb at juno.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September
25, 2009 8:04:57 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions

I know this subject
has been beat to death but.....

1. I have two tires with good tread that
could be used as a spare, 195/75R14
and 185/75R14. Would either one these work
on a stock wheel without rubbing?

2. Also looking for some junk tires to
mount on my car while, it's at the body
shop. I found a local tire dealer that
will give me some junk tires for free.
All I have to pay is $24 to mount them
on my stock rims. What tire sizes will
work?

TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss
Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrEnJrzhZsCleQpxLshd9MpOH
C2MSs2k5LrdywYXjFsA3dPuyv2/
________________________________________
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From davesmbox at aol.com  Fri Sep 25 13:19:14 2009
From: davesmbox at aol.com (davesmbox at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 15:19:14 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions
In-Reply-To: <864588.31296.qm@web51006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC0C2C343FF97A-17EC-6A04@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com>

Am I missing something? How about the pressure they wrote on the side of the tire


-----Original Message-----
From: arthur lin <arthurklin888 at yahoo.com>
To: hallosb at juno.com <hallosb at juno.com>; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 25, 2009 2:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Tire questions



can someone respond to tire pressure recommendation? I am running 195/60-14
-Arthur


--- On Fri, 9/25/09, Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net> wrote:


From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Tire questions
To: "hallosb at juno.com" <hallosb at juno.com>, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, September 25, 2009, 6:42 AM


Dan,

Either will work as a spare.

The original tire size is 5.60x14, which
is about 142 millimeters wide.  I think anything from that up to 195/XX-14
will be fine for your body shop purposes.  I have heard of people putting
205/XX-14s on the cars, but you'll be safe if you stick to 195 and smaller.
Gary


________________________________
From: "hallosb at juno.com"
<hallosb at juno.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September
25, 2009 8:04:57 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions

I know this subject
has been beat to death but.....

1. I have two tires with good tread that
could be used as a spare, 195/75R14
and 185/75R14. Would either one these work
on a stock wheel without rubbing?

2. Also looking for some junk tires to
mount on my car while, it's at the body
shop. I found a local tire dealer that
will give me some junk tires for free.
All I have to pay is $24 to mount them
on my stock rims. What tire sizes will
work?

TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss
Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrEnJrzhZsCleQpxLshd9MpOH
C2MSs2k5LrdywYXjFsA3dPuyv2/
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From gordon.e.maness at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 25 13:26:13 2009
From: gordon.e.maness at hotmail.com (Gordon Maness)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 14:26:13 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy
Message-ID: <BLU142-W185132F203718571375ACAB2D90@phx.gbl>

Who is building the Gary Boone distrubitor now?



Thanks



P.S. I use CamGuard to keep my cam and lifters alive.

I've no association with the company.

The FAA does not lightly approve products.

(It's hard to pull to the side of the road from 15,000 feet.)

 http://www.aslcamguard.com/
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
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now.
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LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1

From alagams at juno.com  Fri Sep 25 14:05:47 2009
From: alagams at juno.com (alagams at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:05:47 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy
Message-ID: <20090925.160547.19868.0@webmail20.dca.untd.com>

Dave Brisco he's on the board and the site "Dbrick" give him a few hours and
I'm sure he answer you.
Gary
____________________________________________________________
Click now for prescreened plumbing contractors.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTRHJCL7iTkFSWYTknK0ziy0aZRP
WQcYnr4ejnNifL4mvFsqF0dGXe/

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Fri Sep 25 14:09:32 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 13:09:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions
In-Reply-To: <8CC0C2C343FF97A-17EC-6A04@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com>
References: <864588.31296.qm@web51006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ABCC10C.892.106114B@localhost>

It was asked:
> can someone respond to tire pressure recommendation?

And one suggestion was:
> How about the pressure they wrote on the side of the tire

The pressure listed on the sidewall is the absolute maximum
pressure that should never be exceeded (measured on a cold tire).
In typical use the desired pressure will be notably lower.

If the pressure it too high over time you will wear the tread in
the middle of the footprint ('cause the tire bulges out), and the
ride will be very hard ('cause the sidewalls don't flex). Steering
may feel 'jittery' (my term) because there's a reduced contact
patch on the road. Good gas mileage, though.

If the pressure it too low over time you will wear the tread on the
edges of the footprint and the ride will be mushy. Steering will
feel heavy. Gas mileage suffers, and you risk catastrophic tire
failure because the sidewall will flex too much, causing internal
heat and wear.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Fri Sep 25 16:40:57 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 22:40:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <1171557404.5807511253918412640.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1428525852.5807731253918457572.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

<http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.Ignition> 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Maness" <gordon.e.maness at hotmail.com> 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 12:26:13 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy 

Who is building the Gary Boone distrubitor now? 

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Fri Sep 25 19:22:31 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 21:22:31 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <BLU142-W185132F203718571375ACAB2D90@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU142-W185132F203718571375ACAB2D90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC0C5EF46B5E96-29E8-A541@webmail-d049.sysops.aol.com>

 Also Steve Ehlers at Rising Sun Performance Inc does the EI dizzy, stevenehlers at charter.net.
?The 311 site has a list of vendors to check with.



Linda





 





 



-----Original Message-----

From: Gordon Maness <gordon.e.maness at hotmail.com>

To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Sent: Fri, Sep 25, 2009 12:26 pm

Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy













Who is building the Gary Boone distrubitor now?







Thanks







P.S. I use CamGuard to keep my cam and lifters alive.



I've no association with the company.



The FAA does not lightly approve products.



(It's hard to pull to the side of the road from 15,000 feet.)



 http://www.aslcamguard.com/

                      

_________________________________________________________________

Bing  brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.   Try it

now.

http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M

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From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Fri Sep 25 19:48:07 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 21:48:07 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions
In-Reply-To: <20090925.060457.24230.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4854A58E6CEB4996A430C842C5F5C1A4@delled48909442>

I have a compact spare, from a Z, IIRC.  If you can get 4 of these from the
junkyard as garage wheels, you should be able to keep one for a spare, and
the other 3 would be easy to sell off to other roadster owners..  The skinny
tires make the car easy to push too.


Dave Brisco

-----Original Message-----
From: hallosb at juno.com [mailto:hallosb at juno.com]
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 9:05 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Tire questions

I know this subject has been beat to death but.....

1. I have two tires with good tread that could be used as a spare, 195/75R14
and 185/75R14. Would either one these work on a stock wheel without rubbing?

2. Also looking for some junk tires to mount on my car while, it's at the
body
shop. I found a local tire dealer that will give me some junk tires for
free.
All I have to pay is $24 to mount them on my stock rims. What tire sizes
will
work?

TIA,
Dan McHatton
'66 1600



____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEGrEnJrzhZsCleQpxLshd9MpO
H
C2MSs2k5LrdywYXjFsA3dPuyv2/

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Fri Sep 25 20:33:05 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 22:33:05 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <8CC0C5EF46B5E96-29E8-A541@webmail-d049.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <E912F8C0DF934628A065880D2790C727@delled48909442>

And let's not forget Stan Chernoff, MrZXMiles, and some guy on Ebay.

Hi Gordon, I bought the business from Gary.  You can reach me by email when
you get a chance.My email is EastCoastRoadster at comcast.net
Or DaveandLindaB at comcast.net


Website www.EastCoastRoadster.com


Dave Brisco
East Coast Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net [mailto:ljordan704 at netscape.net]
 Also Steve Ehlers at Rising Sun Performance Inc does the EI dizzy,
stevenehlers at charter.net.
?The 311 site has a list of vendors to check with.



Linda















-----Original Message-----

From: Gordon Maness <gordon.e.maness at hotmail.com>

To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net

Sent: Fri, Sep 25, 2009 12:26 pm

Subject: [Roadsters] dizzy













Who is building the Gary Boone distrubitor now?







Thanks







P.S. I use CamGuard to keep my cam and lifters alive.



I've no association with the company.



The FAA does not lightly approve products.



(It's hard to pull to the side of the road from 15,000 feet.)



 http://www.aslcamguard.com/



_________________________________________________________________

Bing  brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.   Try it

now.

http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_
M

LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1
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From fj20spl311 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 25 23:17:53 2009
From: fj20spl311 at yahoo.com (philip erickson)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 22:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 406
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9564.1253929692.3240.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <144387.38325.qm@web32005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have seen 'hotrod' systems which, depending on what is wanted, run the
fuel through either ice, or a heater.
The heater to have the fuel easier to mix with the air and stay in
suspension in the airfuel mix (as opposed to adhereing to the runner walls).
Many who do this are actually trying to get better milage, not more power.
The ice just doesn't make sense to me............

Daryl
*********************************************

The colder the air-fuel mixture the more power.  That means cooling the intake
air and the fuel.


Phil

From GCallahan at prodigy.net  Sat Sep 26 09:35:21 2009
From: GCallahan at prodigy.net (Gary Callahan)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Off Topic:  National Pancake Day
Message-ID: <977172.16641.qm@web81002.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Today is National Pancake Day!  Fire up your Roadsters and go out for some pancakes.  There not just for breakfast, you know.


Gary callahan.  :~)
1968 Datsun "Fairlady" 1600

Sent from a Luddite's iPhone!   :~)

From lenrutte at msn.com  Sun Sep 27 00:39:51 2009
From: lenrutte at msn.com (Lenny)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 23:39:51 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadster wanted
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP744CCA0DE9FB3144E87333C0D70@phx.gbl>

Looking for either a 1600 or 2000 roadster dry rust free and turnkey.  
Let me know what u got! Western us only

Sent from my iPhone

From roadster at astound.net  Mon Sep 28 01:37:36 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 00:37:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Friends
In-Reply-To: <CA3ADCE15133460D9250011164259F17@delled48909442>
References: <CA3ADCE15133460D9250011164259F17@delled48909442>
Message-ID: <4048E479-EF48-453A-B342-54E2D8F69147@astound.net>

Hi Dave,

The suicide stretch is Photoshop. I didn't realize John Sandhoff had  
the photo saved, it's been a long time. Originally I did it in red,  
because my '66 is red. Then I redid it as black, because a stretch  
should be black (or white nowadays). I posted it as an April Fools  
joke on April 1st, 2000. Shocking how many people thought it was real.  
It was really hard to change the color in Photoshop, especially  
keeping the reflections of the sky in the paint. I kept one clue -  
just above the steering wheel is an image of the antenna, in the  
original photo of the 2-door roadster.

P.S. Sorry about the late reply, just got back from my younger  
daughter's wedding in Kansas. My older daughter got married in June.  
Happy dad! Now to get back to roadsters!

Fred Katz
So.SF


On Sep 23, 2009, at 5:50 PM, dave wrote:

> My next project , space and wife permitting, is a Nash Metro on a  
> Roadster
> frame, comp suspension and God knows what engine, plenty of hood  
> room.  I
> figure it would be look great coming down the hill and through the  
> 90 degree
> lefthander at Datsun Hill into Watkins Glen, then punch it down  
> Franklin
> Street, minimal muffler, of course.  A Metro that DOESN't roll over  
> in a
> tight turn, now that's a head turner.
>
> I like the suicide stretch, real or Photoshop?
>
> Dave Brisco
> ECR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gordon Glasgow [mailto:gsglasgow at comcast.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:14 PM
> To: 'Eric Gillis'; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> Once in Grants Pass, OR, I saw a Nash Metropolitan body on a Jeep  
> chassis.
> It was great! It just made you smile.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric  
> Gillis
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 3:06 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Friends
>
> Listers-
>
>
>
> Ditto that from Herb and Gordon, but does this mean I keep plans for a
> CJ5/Roadster (not mudder, just 4wd) to myself?  We coulda' used one  
> on our
> Minden run last weekend in places...
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> ps, I thought that Katz's creation was real and not p'shopped.  And  
> anyone
> worried about that aftermarket Empi steering wheel not being  
> 'correct' can
> ship it to me, I will reimburse your shipping and even give you $20  
> for it
> ;)

From tputland at charter.net  Mon Sep 28 13:49:21 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 12:49:21 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Banjo Bolt Washers
Message-ID: <20090928154921.Z82WA.6033222.root@mp07>

What is the reason that these are metal? Can I assume that it is to be able to stand up to gasoline exposure? Will a plastic washer work?
TIA
Tim

From msedlack at neo.rr.com  Mon Sep 28 14:09:38 2009
From: msedlack at neo.rr.com (Mark Sedlack)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:09:38 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Banjo Bolt Washers
References: <20090928154921.Z82WA.6033222.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <99F99E96FB874043A63365CEC753FB35@p53ghzduo>

They are made of soft metal (either dead soft copper or aluminum) to crush 
and fill in any microscopic variations in the mating surfaces to stand up to 
very high pressures, particularly in hydraulic brake applications.  Some 
carbs use fittings with plastic washers, where the plastic is chemically 
inert like HDPE or Acetal.

Mark Sedlack
Clinton, OH
66 1600 http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
77 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:49 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Banjo Bolt Washers


> What is the reason that these are metal? Can I assume that it is to be 
> able to stand up to gasoline exposure? Will a plastic washer work?
> TIA
> Tim
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as msedlack at neo.rr.com
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep 29 05:44:32 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 4:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable
Message-ID: <20090929074432.VS9D6.5985356.root@mp11>

I am going to order the parts (that need to be ordered online) necessary to install a back up hood release cable on both Roadsters. Do you want me to go ahead and get a set for you as well? There are others that need to be bought at the hardware store, but the online stuff is approximately $20.

Let me know.

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Sep 29 05:55:09 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 4:55:09 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] back up ----NEVER MIND
In-Reply-To: <20090929074432.VS9D6.5985356.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <20090929075509.F6DH1.5985708.root@mp11>

Never mind........this was supposed to go to the person who is directly about this email address in my contacts. 

Sorry for the bandwidth waste. 

Tim

---- Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote: 

=============
I am going to order the parts (that need to be ordered online) necessary to install a back up hood release cable on both Roadsters. Do you want me to go ahead and get a set for you as well? There are others that need to be bought at the hardware store, but the online stuff is approximately $20.

Let me know.
You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net

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http://www.team.net/archive

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From sandhoff at csus.edu  Tue Sep 29 10:06:19 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 09:06:19 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable
In-Reply-To: <20090929074432.VS9D6.5985356.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <4AC1CE0B.9422.26F6BB@localhost>

Actually, your mis-aimed reply that made it to the list may turn out
to be helpful.

> I am going to order the parts necessary to install a back up hood release..

One coat hanger, one pair of pliers, 5 minutes.

Straighten the hanger, then fashion a loop (for a handle) on one end.
Snake the other end thru the large grommet on the 45 degree angled
part of the firewall, from the driver's cockpit, where it lines up with
the hood release mechanism. Bend and hook the end to the pull-tab
on the release. Make sure it's crimped so it won't pop loose. Done.

In emergency, crawl under the dash and pull the wire horizontally.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From reblues at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 17:13:44 2009
From: reblues at gmail.com (Richard Brown)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:13:44 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable
References: <4AC1CE0B.9422.26F6BB@localhost>
Message-ID: <FFBDE84E461B4B3E8816C4790A4DE872@ACER4230>

I second what John said.  If you position the 'handle' right you don't even 
have to crawl under the dash.  I just reach down past the hood knob and grab 
the hanger, works great.

Richard

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff at csus.edu>
To: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable


> Actually, your mis-aimed reply that made it to the list may turn out
> to be helpful.
>
>> I am going to order the parts necessary to install a back up hood 
>> release..
>
> One coat hanger, one pair of pliers, 5 minutes.
>
> Straighten the hanger, then fashion a loop (for a handle) on one end.
> Snake the other end thru the large grommet on the 45 degree angled
> part of the firewall, from the driver's cockpit, where it lines up with
> the hood release mechanism. Bend and hook the end to the pull-tab
> on the release. Make sure it's crimped so it won't pop loose. Done.
>
> In emergency, crawl under the dash and pull the wire horizontally.
>
> -- John
>     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Sep 29 17:57:51 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:57:51 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable
References: <4AC1CE0B.9422.26F6BB@localhost>
	<FFBDE84E461B4B3E8816C4790A4DE872@ACER4230>
Message-ID: <775BD6B0673B4BEB803691F948B4FF59@gaxp1>

I have seen them fashioned from motorcycle cable and routed out through the 
left inner fender.  I think I'll see what I can do with cable, but routed 
via the grommet, as John describes.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Brown" <reblues at gmail.com>
To: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff at csus.edu>; "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable


>I second what John said.  If you position the 'handle' right you don't even 
>have to crawl under the dash.  I just reach down past the hood knob and 
>grab the hanger, works great.
>
> Richard
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff at csus.edu>
> To: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
> Cc: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 12:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] back up hood release cable
>
>
>> Actually, your mis-aimed reply that made it to the list may turn out
>> to be helpful.
>>
>>> I am going to order the parts necessary to install a back up hood 
>>> release..
>>
>> One coat hanger, one pair of pliers, 5 minutes.
>>
>> Straighten the hanger, then fashion a loop (for a handle) on one end.
>> Snake the other end thru the large grommet on the 45 degree angled
>> part of the firewall, from the driver's cockpit, where it lines up with
>> the hood release mechanism. Bend and hook the end to the pull-tab
>> on the release. Make sure it's crimped so it won't pop loose. Done.
>>
>> In emergency, crawl under the dash and pull the wire horizontally.
>>
>> -- John
>>     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Wed Sep 30 05:36:41 2009
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 06:36:41 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
Message-ID: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>

Group,

 

Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new oil
pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?

 

Thanks

 

Steve Harvey

Milwaukee

From jeremymayne at msn.com  Wed Sep 30 07:55:19 2009
From: jeremymayne at msn.com (jeremy mayne)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 13:55:19 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
References: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
Message-ID: <COL115-W3558672F9324BEA966E32CB7D40@phx.gbl>

I don't know if this is the "correct" method, but when I built my stroker
motor, I used a new cork gasket, new lock washers, and no gasket sealer.
After installing the bolts, I worked my way around the pan multiple times,
tightening to spec each time (I think 12lbs, but don't quote me on that).  No
leaks so far.



Jeremy Mayne

70 SPL stroker (sadly unused right now)





> From: stebharvey at ameritech.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 06:36:41 -0500
> Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
>
> Group,
>
>
>
> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new
oil
> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve Harvey
>
> Milwaukee
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jeremymayne at msn.com
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From machworx at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 08:12:36 2009
From: machworx at gmail.com (Richard Schnoor)
Date: 30 Sep 2009 07:12:36 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] I could use your help
Message-ID: <MAIL4IlWrdFOSPUPeKl0005b1fd@mail4.QuietAgent.com>

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From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 30 09:01:26 2009
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:01:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W3558672F9324BEA966E32CB7D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <982517.30502.qm@web63708.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

That method sounds correct.  You may want to start with the center of the pan
and thigten snug working to the ends, then repeat.  Do not overtighten, as
that is what causes leaks, the pan seal will deform easily if overtightened.
A cork gasket and a light coating of sealant should work beautifully if your
surface is straight.  Check it with a straight edge before re-installing, and
hammer it straight if it has warps.

Mike Harper, CAI, AARE
Harper Auction & Realty
843-729-4996
"Experience Sells"

www.AuctionMyRealEstate.NET


--- On Wed, 9/30/09, jeremy mayne <jeremymayne at msn.com> wrote:

> From: jeremy mayne <jeremymayne at msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
> To: stebharvey at ameritech.net, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2009, 9:55 AM
> I don't know if this is the "correct"
> method, but when I built my stroker
> motor, I used a new cork gasket, new lock washers, and no
> gasket sealer.
> After installing the bolts, I worked my way around the pan
> multiple times,
> tightening to spec each time (I think 12lbs, but don't
> quote me on that).  No
> leaks so far.
>
>
>
> Jeremy Mayne
>
> 70 SPL stroker (sadly unused right now)
>
>
>
>
>
> > From: stebharvey at ameritech.net
> > To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> > Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 06:36:41 -0500
> > Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
> >
> > Group,
> >
> >
> >
> > Can someone provide insight into the correct method
> for installing a new
> oil
> > pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the
> same gasket can be
> > used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Wed Sep 30 09:28:55 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:28:55 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W3558672F9324BEA966E32CB7D40@phx.gbl>
References: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
	<COL115-W3558672F9324BEA966E32CB7D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002b01ca41e2$bca33f70$35e9be50$@net>

3.5 ft/lb of torque on those.

One area that I learned to check to avoid leaks is the rear main bearing
cap. This forms part of the mating surface for the pan. If the block has
been align-bored during the rebuild process, this can cause that surface to
sit further up into the block than the rest of the pan mating surface,
especially if this has been done more than once. On one engine I had to cut
a short piece of thin gasket material to fill the gap in order to stop a
leak.

There's plenty of difference of opinion about gasket sealant yes/no, but I
like to use a *very thin* coating of Hylomar on any non-machined surfaces
like the oil pan, thermostat housing, etc.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jeremy mayne
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:55 AM
To: stebharvey at ameritech.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket

I don't know if this is the "correct" method, but when I built my stroker
motor, I used a new cork gasket, new lock washers, and no gasket sealer.
After installing the bolts, I worked my way around the pan multiple times,
tightening to spec each time (I think 12lbs, but don't quote me on that).
No
leaks so far.



Jeremy Mayne

70 SPL stroker (sadly unused right now)





> From: stebharvey at ameritech.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 06:36:41 -0500
> Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
>
> Group,
>
>
>
> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new
oil
> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve Harvey
>
> Milwaukee
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jeremymayne at msn.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Wed Sep 30 09:52:15 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:52:15 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
Message-ID: <4AC31C3F.23928.1B06C3@localhost>

> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing
> a new oil pan gasket on a 1600 engine?

What others have said. I think Jeremy refers to INCH-pounds,
not FOOT-pounds :-)

> Also, is it true that the same gasket can be used on the
> 1600 and 2000 engine?

Better than that, an H20 gasket works on either block. Available
from your forklift dealer for way less than an R-16 gasket from the
dealer!

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Wed Sep 30 10:47:34 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:47:34 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
References: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
	<COL115-W3558672F9324BEA966E32CB7D40@phx.gbl>
	<002b01ca41e2$bca33f70$35e9be50$@net>
Message-ID: <35CA1D63FD1841BF88E9D5144938F03E@Daryl>

Continuing from what Gordon has said, I had (?) an oil leak from the front 
of the engine due to a timing cover which hung down about .010" - .012" from 
the rest of the sealing surface. Doesn't seem like much, but was enough to 
create a problem.

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>


> 3.5 ft/lb of torque on those.
>
> One area that I learned to check to avoid leaks is the rear main bearing
> cap. This forms part of the mating surface for the pan. If the block has
> been align-bored during the rebuild process, this can cause that surface 
> to
> sit further up into the block than the rest of the pan mating surface,
> especially if this has been done more than once. On one engine I had to 
> cut
> a short piece of thin gasket material to fill the gap in order to stop a
> leak.
>
> There's plenty of difference of opinion about gasket sealant yes/no, but I
> like to use a *very thin* coating of Hylomar on any non-machined surfaces
> like the oil pan, thermostat housing, etc.
>
> Gordon Glasgow

> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>
> I don't know if this is the "correct" method, but when I built my stroker
> motor, I used a new cork gasket, new lock washers, and no gasket sealer.
> After installing the bolts, I worked my way around the pan multiple times,
> tightening to spec each time (I think 12lbs, but don't quote me on that).
> No
> leaks so far.
>
> Jeremy Mayne
>
> 70 SPL stroker (sadly unused right now)
>

>
>> From: stebharvey at ameritech.net
>>
>> Group,
>>
>> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new
> oil
>> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
>> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Steve Harvey

From aultgc at att.net  Wed Sep 30 10:58:35 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 11:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
References: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
Message-ID: <A411E90A8A694283BB852283EC58AA3A@gaxp1>

Steve,

Oil pans and gaskets are interchangeable between the 1600 and 2000.  Notee 
that, on the pan, there is a raised ridge on  the mating edge.  If you 
overtighten the bolts, that ridge will crush the cork gasket and create 
leaks.  I used Permatex RTV on the last one I installed.

Since none of my torque wrenches can be relied upon at 3.5 foot-pounds, I 
just tighten the bolts with my hand around the head of the rachet so I 
cannot put too much torque on things, and make sure I just compress the lock 
washers -- no more.  With the RTV in there, you don't need much.  Let the 
RTV cure before you fire up the motor.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harvey" <stebharvey at ameritech.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:36 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket


> Group,
>
>
>
> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new 
> oil
> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve Harvey
>
> Milwaukee
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From majorpikins at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep 30 11:18:25 2009
From: majorpikins at ca.rr.com (majorpikins at ca.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 13:18:25 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Stripped Threads
Message-ID: <20090930171825.ZOZIF.178748.root@cdptpa-web27-z02>

I have a nice competition oil pan but the threads in the pan are badly stripped and the plug leaks. Does anyone know what size insert or helicoil I would need for the repair. I can't tell what size the drain hole plug threads are but I know it is the same size plug used in the srandard oil pan.

Thanks!
--
Gary Griffin

From ljordan704 at netscape.net  Wed Sep 30 11:27:42 2009
From: ljordan704 at netscape.net (ljordan704 at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 13:27:42 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <A411E90A8A694283BB852283EC58AA3A@gaxp1>
References: <000001ca41c2$485596b0$d900c410$@net>
	<A411E90A8A694283BB852283EC58AA3A@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <8CC100A73B11F5D-57EC-23504@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com>

 On my car Permatex non hardening sealant #2? was used on both surfaces. Be sure the surfaces are clean of all previous gasket material. Then it was tightened from the center out for a total of about 4-5 passes. Overkill to tighten that slowly but it does not leak.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
To: Steve Harvey <stebharvey at ameritech.net>; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2009 9:58 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket









Steve,?
?

Oil pans and gaskets are interchangeable between the 1600 and 2000.  Notee 
that, on the pan, there is a raised ridge on  the mating edge.  If you 
overtighten the bolts, that ridge will crush the cork gasket and create 
leaks.  I used Permatex RTV on the last one I installed.?
?

Since none of my torque wrenches can be relied upon at 3.5 foot-pounds, I 
just tighten the bolts with my hand around the head of the rachet so I 
cannot put too much torque on things, and make sure I just compress the lock 
washers -- no more.  With the RTV in there, you don't need much.  Let the 
RTV cure before you fire up the motor.?
?

Gary?
?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harvey" <stebharvey at ameritech.net>?

To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>?

Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:36 AM?

Subject: [Roadsters] Oil pan gasket?
?


> Group,?

>?

>?

>?

> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new 
> oil?

> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be?

> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine??

>?

>?

>?

> Thanks?

>?

>?

>?

> Steve Harvey?

>?

> Milwaukee?

> ________________________________________?

> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html?

>?

> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net?

>?

> Datsun-roadsters mailing list?

>?

> http://www.team.net/archive?

>?

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 
________________________________________?

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html?
?

You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net?
?

Datsun-roadsters mailing list?
?

http://www.team.net/archive?
?

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters?

From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Wed Sep 30 13:58:26 2009
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 14:58:26 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Soft Top Front Frame
Message-ID: <002001ca4208$60c4eb10$224ec130$@net>

Group,

 

Thanks to all for the oil pan gasket information. 

 

I purchased a new soft top (with the removable window) several years ago and
started the process of finding the best frame to use out of the two frames
that I have. I know for a fact that both tops need the front metal frame
piece repaired due to metal fatigue in the center.   Has anyone attempted to
repair this piece themselves or is this better left to someone with
experience?

 

Thanks

 

Steve Harvey

Milwaukee

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 30 14:32:16 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 20:32:16 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] 2010 Sports & Exotic Car Calendar
Message-ID: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>

A Datsun amongst other "exotics"
:)http://www.hemmings.com/store/detail_calendars.html?product_id=1376

Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20

 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Microsoft brings you a new way to search the web.  Try  Bing now
http://www.bing.com?form=MFEHPG&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFEHPG_Core_tagline_try
bing_1x1

From RWM at RWMann.com  Wed Sep 30 14:35:35 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:35:35 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] 2010 Sports & Exotic Car Calendar
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AC3C117.3080402@RWMann.com>


From RWM at RWMann.com  Wed Sep 30 14:36:48 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:36:48 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] 2010 Sports & Exotic Car Calendar
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AC3C160.3090603@RWMann.com>

Nice.  What are those others?    ;-)



alvin gogineni wrote:
> A Datsun amongst other "exotics"
> :)http://www.hemmings.com/store/detail_calendars.html?product_id=1376
>
> Alvin Gogineni
> San Jose, CA
> 67.5 SPL/SR20

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 30 14:44:58 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 13:44:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Soft Top Front Frame
In-Reply-To: <002001ca4208$60c4eb10$224ec130$@net>
References: <002001ca4208$60c4eb10$224ec130$@net>
Message-ID: <493417.5217.qm@web36308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you're referring to the common crack in the front bow, I built a fixture to
hold the bow in the correct shape as if it were installed and had the crack
weld repaired (with a little extra reinforcement too).  I made the fixture
from a 2X4, and positioned a couple of small angle brackets from the hardware
store on each end of the 2X4, located so the holes in the brackets line up
with the holes in the brackets on the ends of the bow.  Then put some small
bolts and nuts to fasten the bow/fixture assembly together while welding.  I
passed my fixture on to someone in WyCroc and haven't seen it since.
Gary
________________________________
From: Steve Harvey <stebharvey at ameritech.net>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009
1:58:26 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Soft Top Front Frame

Group,



Thanks to all
for the oil pan gasket information. 



I purchased a new soft top (with the
removable window) several years ago and
started the process of finding the
best frame to use out of the two frames
that I have. I know for a fact that
both tops need the front metal frame
piece repaired due to metal fatigue in
the center.  Has anyone attempted to
repair this piece themselves or is this
better left to someone with
experience?



Thanks



Steve Harvey

Milwaukee

From sprague at JandMContractors.com  Wed Sep 30 16:17:06 2009
From: sprague at JandMContractors.com (Leonard Sprague)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 18:17:06 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] 2010 Sports & Exotic Car Calendar
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT104-W2355AEDB9608C1071ED31EB5D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AC3D8E2.6000005@JandMContractors.com>

alvin gogineni wrote:
> A Datsun amongst other "exotics"
> :)http://www.hemmings.com/store/detail_calendars.html?product_id=1376
>
> Alvin Gogineni
> San Jose, CA
> 67.5 SPL/SR20

Nice!!

I love the July one! Congratulations Alvin!

Enjoy the ride,
Lenny Sprague
Gainesville, FL

For Sale: 69 SPL311/VG30
http://www.lennyandjulie.com/datsun/

From efrisbee at charter.net  Wed Sep 30 20:00:11 2009
From: efrisbee at charter.net (efrisbee at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 19:00:11 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Soft Top Front Frame
In-Reply-To: <493417.5217.qm@web36308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090930220011.JEHOR.6228335.root@mp13>

I had it for a while, but turned it back over to ??? someone before I left in 2003... I'll see if I can't find that email I sent out before leaving... 


---- Gary Boone <gboone70 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> If you're referring to the common crack in the front bow, I built a fixture to
> hold the bow in the correct shape as if it were installed and had the crack
> weld repaired (with a little extra reinforcement too).  I made the fixture
> from a 2X4, and positioned a couple of small angle brackets from the hardware
> store on each end of the 2X4, located so the holes in the brackets line up
> with the holes in the brackets on the ends of the bow.  Then put some small
> bolts and nuts to fasten the bow/fixture assembly together while welding.  I
> passed my fixture on to someone in WyCroc and haven't seen it since.
> Gary
> ________________________________
> From: Steve Harvey <stebharvey at ameritech.net>
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009
> 1:58:26 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Soft Top Front Frame
> 
> Group,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all
> for the oil pan gasket information. 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a new soft top (with the
> removable window) several years ago and
> started the process of finding the
> best frame to use out of the two frames
> that I have. I know for a fact that
> both tops need the front metal frame
> piece repaired due to metal fatigue in
> the center.  Has anyone attempted to
> repair this piece themselves or is this
> better left to someone with
> experience?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Steve Harvey
> 
> Milwaukee
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as efrisbee at charter.net
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters