From svedise at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  1 05:27:00 2009
From: svedise at hotmail.com (Jim Svedise)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 04:27:00 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters]  Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 304
Message-ID: <BAY136-DS501824F973A0916F3D677B4110@phx.gbl>

   Well here in Mexico it is high's of 117 with a humidity of 90 so it 
feel's
 like 125. That right on the Sea of Cortez and yes it does feel like a
 convention oven.
 Jim & Susan
 70 2000

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  1 05:57:22 2009
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 04:57:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Two quick questions
In-Reply-To: <8CBE06B3FD3A20F-9D8-1D1A@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090731132026.7D7HF.2692229.root@mp06>
	<8CBE06B3FD3A20F-9D8-1D1A@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <b0b0059f0908010457y3b6d50eembf6817280c61fc5f@mail.gmail.com>

????

On Fri, Jul 31, 2009 at 7:59 PM, <jover4x4 at aol.com> wrote:

> When I reply to the list my posting shows a question mark after every
> sentence.? Why is that?? I am not really that illiterate.
>
>
> John Over
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
> To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 11:20 am
> Subject: [Roadsters] Two quick questions
>
>
>
> Does any one know what gas cap I can go buy to use on a 70 1600? Until I
> replace
> the filler neck, my extra chrome caps don't fit tight enough to stay on.
>
> Is there a way to test a stcok fuel pump that is not on the motor?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
> You are subscribed as jover4x4 at aol.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
'66 1600
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
This is my second Fairlady...I'm married to the first one.

If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Roadster, then you are lucky
enough.

From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  1 06:01:32 2009
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 05:01:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Two quick questions
In-Reply-To: <4E8E93763FE24C8BA464DC0D363220F1@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <460169.1701.qm@web63707.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

My bad!  I forgot about the '70 being a closed system with a non-vented cap.

Mike Harper
--- On Sat, 8/1/09, Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net> wrote:

> From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc at att.net>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Two quick questions
> To: mike at harperauctionandrealty.com, "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>, "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 1, 2009, 1:42 AM
> Mike,
>
> Nissan lists five different fuel caps for the roadster, and
> two different
> filler tubes.
>
> The essential difference is the later caps and filler tubes
> were for cars
> with evaporative emissions control and were sealed. 
> The caps for the
> earlier cars were vented.  Other differences were
> cosmetic.
>
> Rallye shows one cap for vented tanks and two for
> non-vented tanks, with the
> only difference between the two sealed caps being the
> finish.

From spl310 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  1 06:23:19 2009
From: spl310 at hotmail.com (sidney raper)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 08:23:19 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Gas Caps
Message-ID: <BAY144-W192A3064ADD8BE4BF770C692110@phx.gbl>

There were variations on the gas caps through the years, but basically there
were two versions - the locking and the non-locking.  The 70 with the sealed
system had the non locking.  It had a gas cap that looked like one off of a
70's Ford F100 pickup or an MGB - just a chrome cap.  The easy way to tell if
you have the 70 filler neck is the vent tube on the inside.  If the vent tube
points down, then you have the regular neck.  If your vent tube points out at
90 degrees from the filler tube, then you have the 70.

John,

I think that your PC is infected with the Valley Girl virus.  It makes
everything a question.  If the word like starts showing up, it is terminal...

Sidney Raper
1964 1500 (still a project.... sigh....)
1967 SRL311 00076 (alive again!)
Jacksonville Florida
http://www.geocities.com/roadsternut/index.html




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn
c:082009

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug  1 06:30:22 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 5:30:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] One quick question left
Message-ID: <20090801083022.1XHZ3.2693723.root@mp05>

I found the cap at NAPA--thanks Jim for the quick answer. 

But no one mentioned testing the fuel pump. Can this be done off the car somehow? I don't want to install a pump just to find out it is bad as well. 

Tim

From roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  1 06:49:03 2009
From: roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com (Mike Harper)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 05:49:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] One quick question left
In-Reply-To: <20090801083022.1XHZ3.2693723.root@mp05>
Message-ID: <925178.85710.qm@web63702.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

If the arm of the pump functions well, the only thing that should go "bad" would be the diaphram.  Some fuel pumps have a series of screws and can be disassembled to replace the diaphram.  If you have one of these you can inspect it, or replace it before installation. The other type is sealed, and a throw-away if it fails.  Replacement diaphrams are available.  As far as "bench testing, I would not know a good way to do that on a mechanical fuel pump, but it is not a difficult r&r if it turns out to be "bad".

Mike Harper
--- On Sat, 8/1/09, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] One quick question left
> To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 1, 2009, 8:30 AM
> I found the cap at NAPA--thanks Jim
> for the quick answer. 
> 
> But no one mentioned testing the fuel pump. Can this be
> done off the car somehow? I don't want to install a pump
> just to find out it is bad as well. 
> 
> Tim

From jrdmf at aol.com  Sat Aug  1 09:51:10 2009
From: jrdmf at aol.com (jrdmf at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 11:51:10 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] One quick question left
In-Reply-To: <925178.85710.qm@web63702.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CBE0D705C8C55E-7D4-2893@webmail-dh23.sysops.aol.com>

There are also a couple of check valves and seals that can go bad so if?you're gonna tear it apart then you might as well check those too. The seals are basically paper gaskets between the check valve and the housing?and if they fail then you get no suck or blow. Same goes for the valves and you can check them?out?before you tear it apart?by pumping the?lever with your hand while placing something over the inlet?tube to?see if it pulls and then the?outlet tube to see if it push's. (I wore latex gloves so it provides?a pretty good seal.) The inlet tube should only pull with no pushing on the opposite stroke and the outlet tube should only?push with no?pulling. If you notice either of them doing both then one of the valves or seals has failed. Don't know if new valves and seals are availiable but I just used parts I had?from other pumps I had laying around.

?

Hope it helps?

?

Jon



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Harper <roadsterdude1600 at yahoo.com>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>; Tim <tputland at charter.net>
Sent: Sat, Aug 1, 2009 5:49 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] One quick question left



If the arm of the pump functions well, the only thing that should go "bad" would 
be the diaphram.  Some fuel pumps have a series of screws and can be 
disassembled to replace the diaphram.  If you have one of these you can inspect 
it, or replace it before installation. The other type is sealed, and a 
throw-away if it fails.  Replacement diaphrams are available.  As far as "bench 
testing, I would not know a good way to do that on a mechanical fuel pump, but 
it is not a difficult r&r if it turns out to be "bad".

Mike Harper
--- On Sat, 8/1/09, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] One quick question left
> To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 1, 2009, 8:30 AM
> I found the cap at NAPA--thanks Jim
> for the quick answer. 
> 
> But no one mentioned testing the fuel pump. Can this be
> done off the car somehow? I don't want to install a pump
> just to find out it is bad as well. 
> 
> Tim
You are subscribed as jrdmf at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From jda at srv.net  Sat Aug  1 11:33:11 2009
From: jda at srv.net (John Atchison)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 10:33:11 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadsters in SW Idaho?
In-Reply-To: <796516.79797.qm@web110501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <796516.79797.qm@web110501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1249145297_7578@mailgate1.sitestar.net>

Bryce:

recommend

Loma's Import Car Service,
2141 Kooteani St
Boise, ID
208-342-7372

Tell them John Atchison from eastern Idaho sent you
I have run auto-x and hillclimb races with these guys for many years.



At 11:54 AM 7/28/2009, Bryce Parker wrote:
>I am about to inherit my father's '67 1600 that he bought brand new and I want
>to start educating myself about restoration.  Up until this last year, the car
>has always run very well, but things are starting to deteriorate.  I see that
>there are a lot of websites out there, just curious if there is anyone in the
>Boise area that is into these cars and wouldn't mind sharing some knowledge.
>  This car is like my little brother and I want to do things right and restore
>it to a reliable driver we can take on short trips into the local mountains.
>Thank you,
>Bryce ParkerMeridian, ID
>_

From tom at datsun2000.com  Sat Aug  1 11:10:34 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 10:10:34 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] headlight relay
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGGEMEDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

I work with a couple of people who have 56 T-Birds.  One of them has had his
for about 30 years and rebuilds the power seat relays for other owners.  He
showed me a relay he was working on.  What he is doing is carefully opening
up the original relay case, tossing out the original relay guts, and
installing a modern 30 Amp relay in its place.  Once the origianl case is
replaced over the new relay you cannot tell what has been done inside.

I know that the relays I am using on Mr. Hyde will not fit into the original
relay housing in the roadster, but I have seen relays in the wrecking yard
that might do the trick.  Do a little homework and you might find what you
are looking for.... And a new business to provide relays to roadster owners
:-)

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org

On 7/30/2009 2:05:13 PM, Tim Waltz (printner at att.net) wrote:
> I know there's a lot of people that don't like the look of the
> "new style"
> replacement headlight relay (a lot of people say they prefer the old
> cad-plated case).
>
>
>
> Has anyone looked into putting a modern relay into the old style case?
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> 67.5  1600 slowest resto ever
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as tom at datsun2000.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug  1 14:23:54 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 13:23:54 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel line size and other stuff related...
Message-ID: <20090801162354.1XPCS.1024102.root@mp15>

in checking out why my 70 2000 won't stay running I have found a couple issues. One, there were no screens on the banjo bolts--I have a new set some where. Are they the same size between the 1600 and 2000 SUs?

Also, the PO used 5/16" fuel hose for at least part of the run. Is this a major issue? Should I swap them out for 1/4"?

The fuel pump seemed to work good. Any idea what kind of volume I should expect just spinning the motor with no plugs and running the line into a jar?

TIA

Tim

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Sat Aug  1 15:21:24 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 17:21:24 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel line size and other stuff related...
Message-ID: <c20.616540a8.37a60bd4@aol.com>

The screen is the same for the 1600, 2000 and Z car.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 8/1/2009 1:46:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tputland at charter.net writes:

in  checking out why my 70 2000 won't stay running I have found a couple
issues.  One, there were no screens on the banjo bolts--I have a new set some
where.  Are they the same size between the 1600 and 2000 SUs?

Also, the PO used  5/16" fuel hose for at least part of the run. Is this a
major issue? Should I  swap them out for 1/4"?

The fuel pump seemed to work good. Any idea  what kind of volume I should
expect just spinning the motor with no plugs and  running the line into a
jar?

TIA

Tim
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http
://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug  1 15:34:59 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:34:59 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] smog plugs
Message-ID: <20090801173459.S8XSW.1026140.root@mp15>

Who sells the tapered smog plugs? I remember someone mentioning them a couple years ago but do not have that email saved here. 

Thanks

From Walter.Peterson at cox.net  Sat Aug  1 15:35:40 2009
From: Walter.Peterson at cox.net (Walter Peterson)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:35:40 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] =?iso-8859-1?q?Santa_Barbara_CA_weather=2C_HI_72=B0F_?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?=7C_LO_56=B0F?=
In-Reply-To: <20090801162354.1XPCS.1024102.root@mp15>
References: <20090801162354.1XPCS.1024102.root@mp15>
Message-ID: <001801ca12f0$042bf0c0$0c83d240$@Peterson@cox.net>

Perfect Roadster weather.


Walter Peterson
Santa Barbara Ca, 93109
Street driven race motor
2000 3-Main(R) Solexes,cam etc.
5-Speed & LSD.

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Sat Aug  1 16:06:52 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 18:06:52 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
Message-ID: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>

  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?

 

Paul

1969 1600

From plhbauman at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  1 20:52:31 2009
From: plhbauman at earthlink.net (Paul Bauman)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 19:52:31 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
Message-ID: <1249181551.2820.1.camel@harlie.localdomain>

Paul:

I was born in Cleveland, but I left there when I was five. Does that
count?

Paul Bauman
Westminster, CA
67 1600


On Sat, 2009-08-01 at 18:06 -0400, Paul wrote:
> Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
> 
>  
> 
> Paul
> 
> 1969 1600

From roadster at astound.net  Sat Aug  1 23:19:12 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 22:19:12 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
Message-ID: <0E267336-F668-4645-9CFE-4EFC46CD9B85@astound.net>

I'm not from Ohio but my 70 1600 has an Ohio Datsun Roadsters Club  
sticker on the window! Is the club still active?

Fred - So.SF, CA
http://gallery.me.com/katzfred/100006


On Aug 1, 2009, at 3:06 PM, Paul wrote:
>  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Sun Aug  2 04:27:38 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 06:27:38 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <0E267336-F668-4645-9CFE-4EFC46CD9B85@astound.net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
	<0E267336-F668-4645-9CFE-4EFC46CD9B85@astound.net>
Message-ID: <001401ca135b$dcbff600$963fe200$@net>

  The club, like so many others, has faded away.  Back in 1999 & 2000 we had
15 to 20 roadsters showing up for the MidOhio Vintage GP with OROC.  This
year there were 4 roadsters on the track, but none on the show field.  Hang
on to that sticker.  I only have one or two left, not counting the one on my
1600.

 

Paul

 

From: Fred Katz [mailto:roadster at astound.net] 
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 1:19 AM
To: Paul
Cc: 'datsun-roadsters'
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ohio?

 

 

I'm not from Ohio but my 70 1600 has an Ohio Datsun Roadsters Club sticker
on the window! Is the club still active?

 

Fred - So.SF, CA

http://gallery.me.com/katzfred/100006

 

 

On Aug 1, 2009, at 3:06 PM, Paul wrote:

 Anybody left on the list from Ohio?

From stebharvey at ameritech.net  Sun Aug  2 05:41:35 2009
From: stebharvey at ameritech.net (Steve Harvey)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 06:41:35 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <001401ca135b$dcbff600$963fe200$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
	<0E267336-F668-4645-9CFE-4EFC46CD9B85@astound.net>
	<001401ca135b$dcbff600$963fe200$@net>
Message-ID: <000001ca1366$30d04d30$9270e790$@net>

I have my OROC sticker on the wall of my office. Bidding starts at 25.00!

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 5:28 AM
To: 'Fred Katz'
Cc: 'datsun-roadsters'
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ohio?

  The club, like so many others, has faded away.  Back in 1999 & 2000 we had
15 to 20 roadsters showing up for the MidOhio Vintage GP with OROC.  This
year there were 4 roadsters on the track, but none on the show field.  Hang
on to that sticker.  I only have one or two left, not counting the one on my
1600.

 

Paul

 

From: Fred Katz [mailto:roadster at astound.net] 
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 1:19 AM
To: Paul
Cc: 'datsun-roadsters'
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ohio?

 

 

I'm not from Ohio but my 70 1600 has an Ohio Datsun Roadsters Club sticker
on the window! Is the club still active?

 

Fred - So.SF, CA

http://gallery.me.com/katzfred/100006

 

 

On Aug 1, 2009, at 3:06 PM, Paul wrote:

 Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
You are subscribed as stebharvey at ameritech.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From boakes at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 06:14:09 2009
From: boakes at gmail.com (Bill Oakes)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 07:14:09 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Side molding
Message-ID: <3ad057d60908020514n7897b86bg3b526832235484d4@mail.gmail.com>

The re-assembly continues, now looking at the chrome molding. It's in
ok shape, a little dull and some dings here and there. I decided to
see how much new replacements would be, but can't find any. Are they
rare/hard-to-find?

thanks
-bill

'68 2000 Solex
Libertyville, IL

From edmitche at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 08:27:11 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 08:27:11 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
Message-ID: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>

Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)  Sadly I look like a bobble head in a clown car
driving it around with my 6'2" frame.(I'm blaming it in length...not girth)
freakin' head sticks up 6" over the short windshield.(it's a midlife crisis
gone bad) (do I get a "Do-Over"?)

 

But.I digress.

 

She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded

 

It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I put
an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing to
the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
redheads)

 

My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such the
genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did the
interior heater box.

 

Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water flow
thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces, New Mexico

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

From jover4x4 at aol.com  Sun Aug  2 09:03:03 2009
From: jover4x4 at aol.com (jover4x4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 11:03:03 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
In-Reply-To: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
References: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <8CBE19978258850-10FC-50A7@webmail-db15.sysops.aol.com>

Ed,



No water to the carbs shouldn't pose a problem.? Check that the timing isn't retarded and the mixture isn't lean (both cause high combustion temps) or both.? Also check the cooling system (water pump and radiator) to see that they are in good condition and are circulating enough fluid.? 



If you have proper timing, mixture and coolant the car should run fine.? Do you have the heat shield under the carbs?

Good fuel helps too.? 

Good luck

John Over
Denver

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mitchell <edmitche at gmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Aug 2, 2009 8:27 am
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?




Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)  Sadly I look like a bobble head in a clown car
driving it around with my 6'2" frame.(I'm blaming it in length...not girth)
freakin' head sticks up 6" over the short windshield.(it's a midlife crisis
gone bad) (do I get a "Do-Over"?)

 

But.I digress.

 

She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded

 

It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I put
an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing to
the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
redheads)

 

My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such the
genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did the
interior heater box.

 

Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water flow
thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces, New Mexico

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761
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From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 09:26:17 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 08:26:17 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
In-Reply-To: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
References: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <F38464EB66BF4382B96D843E8790D354@xp>

Forget the specifics (it's been discussed here and the 311s.org forums), but
water flowing through the intake manifold is  good.

Did you check the inlet screens in the carb banjo bolts?

Are you running a fuel filter/multiple filters? If not, why not? If yes, are
they fresh and/or showing clean petrol?

Pete "hoping to have mine back on the road today"

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 7:27 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?

Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)   

She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded 

It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I put
an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing to
the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
redheads) 

My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such the
genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did the
interior heater box.

Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water flow
thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks


Ed Mitchell
Las Cruces, New Mexico

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

From RWM at RWMann.com  Sun Aug  2 09:30:30 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM (Out of the Office))
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 11:30:30 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
In-Reply-To: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
References: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <4A75B116.3000903@RWMann.com>

Ed,

I removed the intake cooling and heater hoses long ago with no ill 
effect.  (Also have a 14" Spal thinline fan, but that's not likely the 
issue here, either.)

Sounds like classic fuel starvation.  Have you flushed the tank of crud 
and blown out the lines?   How about any screens in the carb banjo 
fittings (or are those solely Solex)?

Can't help but commiserate on the bobblehead issue; I'm 6'4" and had to 
re-mount the seat tracks aft and rake the seat further back to see under 
the top of the high windshield visors.

- Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex



Ed Mitchell wrote:
> Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)  Sadly I look like a bobble head in a clown car
> driving it around with my 6'2" frame.(I'm blaming it in length...not girth)
> freakin' head sticks up 6" over the short windshield.(it's a midlife crisis
> gone bad) (do I get a "Do-Over"?)
>
>  
>
> But.I digress.
>
>  
>
> She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded
>
>  
>
> It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I put
> an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing to
> the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
> redheads)
>
>  
>
> My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such the
> genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did the
> interior heater box.
>
>  
>
> Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water flow
> thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?
>
>  
>
> Any input would be greatly appreciated
>
>  
>
> Thanks
>
>  
>
> Ed Mitchell
>
> Las Cruces, New Mexico
>
> 1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Sun Aug  2 09:58:07 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 10:58:07 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
References: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
	<4A75B116.3000903@RWMann.com>
Message-ID: <021001ca138a$07466930$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Ignition coil

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RWM (Out of the Office)" <RWM at RWMann.com>
To: "Ed Mitchell" <edmitche at gmail.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?


> Ed,
>
> I removed the intake cooling and heater hoses long ago with no ill
> effect.  (Also have a 14" Spal thinline fan, but that's not likely the
> issue here, either.)
>
> Sounds like classic fuel starvation.  Have you flushed the tank of crud
> and blown out the lines?   How about any screens in the carb banjo
> fittings (or are those solely Solex)?
>
> Can't help but commiserate on the bobblehead issue; I'm 6'4" and had to
> re-mount the seat tracks aft and rake the seat further back to see under
> the top of the high windshield visors.
>
> - Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex
>
>
>
> Ed Mitchell wrote:
> > Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)  Sadly I look like a bobble head in a clown
car
> > driving it around with my 6'2" frame.(I'm blaming it in length...not
girth)
> > freakin' head sticks up 6" over the short windshield.(it's a midlife
crisis
> > gone bad) (do I get a "Do-Over"?)
> >
> >
> >
> > But.I digress.
> >
> >
> >
> > She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded
> >
> >
> >
> > It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I
put
> > an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing
to
> > the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
> > redheads)
> >
> >
> >
> > My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such
the
> > genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did
the
> > interior heater box.
> >
> >
> >
> > Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water
flow
> > thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?
> >
> >
> >
> > Any input would be greatly appreciated
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> > Ed Mitchell
> >
> > Las Cruces, New Mexico
> >
> > 1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761
> ________________________________________

From stevenehlers at charter.net  Sun Aug  2 10:56:39 2009
From: stevenehlers at charter.net (Steve Ehlers)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 11:56:39 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Side molding
Message-ID: <4A75C547.9010903@charter.net>

Hey Bill ,

As far as side molding goes  "Are they rare/hard-to-find? " .

 I too would like to have NOS trim for an entire car .Way back in the mid 70's ,we all 
removed them and filled the holes for a cleaner look on our cars .I wish I still had 
those originals .I have been trying to put together a complete set for several years .I 
now have all in NOS ,except the rear 1/4 panels .I ended up finding several NOS R/H doors 
,Had to pay a fortune for a L/H door ,and got the front Fenders from a friends car 
restoration parts stash I bought.I do have several extra used perfect and not so good 
pieces ,that I'm going to ahead and have fixed and straightened . I will sell what I have 
then after I keep an extra set for my car ,for just in cases .Did you see what the last used
set sold for on eBay ($455 ,and they were far from perfect)? NOS sets from Rally or Stan 
have sold for $ 750 or so in the past years .

 Rally only has New Left Door and Left Quarter panel moldings left in stock at $118 and $216 respectively .
I will be selling more of my NOS parts on the forums and eBay soon .Keep looking .

Steve 
www.risingsunperformance.com

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Sun Aug  2 11:12:41 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 10:12:41 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
References: <4a75a23f.2a528c0a.4b64.ffffe576@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <3C51F8F3303B4F1BA2B9240317EBB34B@Daryl>

I concur with Mike Hudson,
It sounds like the ignition coil overheating. Borrow a new(ish) coil and see 
if that fixes the problem.

I also agree with Pete that water through the manifold is a good thing.

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Mitchell" <edmitche at gmail.com>

> Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)  Sadly I look like a bobble head in a clown car
> driving it around with my 6'2" frame.(I'm blaming it in length...not 
> girth)
> freakin' head sticks up 6" over the short windshield.(it's a midlife 
> crisis
> gone bad) (do I get a "Do-Over"?)
>
> But.I digress.
>
> She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded
>
> It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I 
> put
> an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing to
> the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
> redheads)
>
> My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such 
> the
> genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did 
> the
> interior heater box.
>
> Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water flow
> thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?
>
> Any input would be greatly appreciated
> Thanks
> Ed Mitchell

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 11:21:31 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 10:21:31 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
Message-ID: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>

Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.

Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move over 
to that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it work, 
but I'm wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone know?

Eddie

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Sun Aug  2 11:45:03 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Andy Cost)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 12:45:03 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?
In-Reply-To: <3C51F8F3303B4F1BA2B9240317EBB34B@Daryl>
Message-ID: <477CA01C575747C49FFA3AE9C5AC7087@pentd>

The water in the coolant is 190 degrees and the exhaust manifold is like 800
degrees.  The water actually cools the manifold since it is subject to
radiant heat from the exhaust manifold.  The carbs have the vapor bypass
which is supposed to help with vapor lock.  You might inspect it to see if
it is working properly.

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daryl Smith
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:13 PM
To: Ed Mitchell; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] cooling the intake?

I concur with Mike Hudson,
It sounds like the ignition coil overheating. Borrow a new(ish) coil and see

if that fixes the problem.

I also agree with Pete that water through the manifold is a good thing.

Daryl

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Mitchell" <edmitche at gmail.com>

> Ok...Dead Betty ROLLS  :-)  Sadly I look like a bobble head in a clown car
> driving it around with my 6'2" frame.(I'm blaming it in length...not
> girth)
> freakin' head sticks up 6" over the short windshield.(it's a midlife
> crisis
> gone bad) (do I get a "Do-Over"?)
>
> But.I digress.
>
> She runs for like 30\45 minutes...then it leaves me stranded
>
> It feels like vapor lock...like she's struggling to get air or fuel.so I
> put
> an electric fuel pump on.(as if that's a cure).and shortened my tubing to
> the carbs.but still.being left stranded 'till she cools down.  (darn
> redheads)
>
> My operating temp is roughly at 190deg.and I did modify ('cause I'm such
> the
> genius) the water pipes to the intake.actually.I omitted them.  As I did
> the
> interior heater box.
>
> Is it possible I'm getting too much heat at the carbs?  Is that water flow
> thru the intake manifold necessary?  And this is indeed my problem?
>
> Any input would be greatly appreciated
> Thanks
> Ed Mitchell
You are subscribed as andycost at embarqmail.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Sun Aug  2 11:48:55 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Andy Cost)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 12:48:55 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
In-Reply-To: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <07DAEE7CC6A64D4FB4828724C37B1DE4@pentd>

Are you disengaging the reverse lockout lever with your left foot?  The
little metal pad in the left corner of the floorboard.

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eddie
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:22 PM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..

Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.

Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move over 
to that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it work, 
but I'm wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone know?

Eddie
You are subscribed as andycost at embarqmail.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From aultgc at att.net  Sun Aug  2 13:02:38 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 14:02:38 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
References: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>

Eddie,

If your shifter won't even move to the reverse position, I'd take a look at 
the reverse lockout spring on the shift mechanism where it enters the trans, 
and make sure everything is in order there -- nothing hanging up.  Access 
that area by removing the trans tunnel shift cover plate.

I occasionally cannot get a 4-speed or 5-speed to engage in 1st or reverse. 
The gear shift will move to that position, but the gears just don't engage. 
However, if, for example, I am trying to get into reverse and it doesn't go, 
I just put it in another gear, then try reverse again.  Never has failed to 
engage a second time.  Sometimes, with the trans not turning, the gears line 
up just so and won't go into one gear or another.  The other thing to do is 
put the shifter into neutral, let the clutch out a little and then put it 
back in.  Also works, but takes longer than just shoving it into another 
gear.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eddie" <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:21 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..


> Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.
>
> Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move over to 
> that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it work, but I'm 
> wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone know?
>
> Eddie
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Sun Aug  2 14:10:23 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (Charles Breault)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 16:10:23 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
In-Reply-To: <84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
References: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>
	<84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <61AF59197D854456B31C66595A782870@Home>

Reverse is not a syncronized gear. It is not unusual to have to double
clutch to get the shifter in. 

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy
Ault
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 3:03 PM
To: Eddie; Datsun Roadster List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..

Eddie,

If your shifter won't even move to the reverse position, I'd take a look at 
the reverse lockout spring on the shift mechanism where it enters the trans,

and make sure everything is in order there -- nothing hanging up.  Access 
that area by removing the trans tunnel shift cover plate.

I occasionally cannot get a 4-speed or 5-speed to engage in 1st or reverse. 
The gear shift will move to that position, but the gears just don't engage. 
However, if, for example, I am trying to get into reverse and it doesn't go,

I just put it in another gear, then try reverse again.  Never has failed to 
engage a second time.  Sometimes, with the trans not turning, the gears line

up just so and won't go into one gear or another.  The other thing to do is 
put the shifter into neutral, let the clutch out a little and then put it 
back in.  Also works, but takes longer than just shoving it into another 
gear.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eddie" <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:21 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..


> Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.
>
> Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move over to

> that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it work, but I'm

> wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone know?

From brad at bradstapleton.com  Sun Aug  2 14:26:24 2009
From: brad at bradstapleton.com (Brad Stapleton)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 16:26:24 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
Message-ID: <3DF7EFA3-A19E-444E-B91F-5AC25C492C78@bradstapleton.com>

I'm here in Cincinnati.

Brad
1966 2000 swapper

On Aug 1, 2009, at 6:06 PM, Paul wrote:

>  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
>
>
>
> Paul
>
> 1969 1600
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as brad at bradstapleton.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 14:50:24 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:50:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
In-Reply-To: <84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
References: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>
	<84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <4A75FC10.6050105@socal.rr.com>

Gary,

Thanks for the real tip.  Much appreciated..

Eddie


Gary and Cindy Ault wrote:
> Eddie,
>
> If your shifter won't even move to the reverse position, I'd take a 
> look at the reverse lockout spring on the shift mechanism where it 
> enters the trans, and make sure everything is in order there -- 
> nothing hanging up.  Access that area by removing the trans tunnel 
> shift cover plate.
>
> I occasionally cannot get a 4-speed or 5-speed to engage in 1st or 
> reverse. The gear shift will move to that position, but the gears just 
> don't engage. However, if, for example, I am trying to get into 
> reverse and it doesn't go, I just put it in another gear, then try 
> reverse again.  Never has failed to engage a second time.  Sometimes, 
> with the trans not turning, the gears line up just so and won't go 
> into one gear or another.  The other thing to do is put the shifter 
> into neutral, let the clutch out a little and then put it back in.  
> Also works, but takes longer than just shoving it into another gear.
>
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eddie" <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
> To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:21 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
>
>
>> Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.
>>
>> Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move 
>> over to that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it 
>> work, but I'm wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone 
>> know?
>>
>> Eddie
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 14:50:58 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:50:58 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
In-Reply-To: <61AF59197D854456B31C66595A782870@Home>
References: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>
	<84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
	<61AF59197D854456B31C66595A782870@Home>
Message-ID: <4A75FC32.3060407@socal.rr.com>

Charles,

thanks for the tip, but double clutching doesn't seem to do it.

Eddie

Charles Breault wrote:
> Reverse is not a syncronized gear. It is not unusual to have to double
> clutch to get the shifter in. 
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy
> Ault
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 3:03 PM
> To: Eddie; Datsun Roadster List
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
>
> Eddie,
>
> If your shifter won't even move to the reverse position, I'd take a look at 
> the reverse lockout spring on the shift mechanism where it enters the trans,
>
> and make sure everything is in order there -- nothing hanging up.  Access 
> that area by removing the trans tunnel shift cover plate.
>
> I occasionally cannot get a 4-speed or 5-speed to engage in 1st or reverse. 
> The gear shift will move to that position, but the gears just don't engage. 
> However, if, for example, I am trying to get into reverse and it doesn't go,
>
> I just put it in another gear, then try reverse again.  Never has failed to 
> engage a second time.  Sometimes, with the trans not turning, the gears line
>
> up just so and won't go into one gear or another.  The other thing to do is 
> put the shifter into neutral, let the clutch out a little and then put it 
> back in.  Also works, but takes longer than just shoving it into another 
> gear.
>
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Eddie" <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
> To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:21 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
>
>
>   
>> Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.
>>
>> Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move over to
>>     
>
>   
>> that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it work, but I'm
>>     
>
>   
>> wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone know?

From msedlack at neo.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 15:40:17 2009
From: msedlack at neo.rr.com (Mark Sedlack)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 17:40:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
Message-ID: <6C0C1DCEC68F4451A04344A223BD123D@p53ghzduo>

Yep,
I still follow the list, but we're moving to the new shop, er, house this 
Wednesday, so I've been a tad busy.....
Mark Sedlack
Cuyahoga Falls OH
66 1600 http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
77 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul" <9laser3 at bright.net>
To: "'datsun-roadsters'" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 6:06 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?


>  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
> 
> 
> 
> Paul
> 
> 1969 1600
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as msedlack at neo.rr.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From cookefam314 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 16:01:36 2009
From: cookefam314 at gmail.com (Dave Cooke)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 17:01:36 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] MSRP for a 1968 SPL311 ?
Message-ID: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>

I'm photoshopping up a window sticker for my Roadster. Anyone have any idea
what the MSRP was for these things in 1968?
I have this info, but need it for 1968

1967 1600 = $2546.00
1968 1600 = $????.00

Also, I'm using a 1967 window sticker template, does anyone know if they
were the same for all the years?

-- 
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

From rksmith46 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  2 20:14:35 2009
From: rksmith46 at hotmail.com (robert k. smith)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 22:14:35 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <001401ca135b$dcbff600$963fe200$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
	<0E267336-F668-4645-9CFE-4EFC46CD9B85@astound.net> 
	<001401ca135b$dcbff600$963fe200$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY124-W499C432B35A25AC3EA0362BF0F0@phx.gbl>

hi paul, yeah those were the days. attached is a pic of some of

the roadsters at the OROC picnic we use to have at my house

when i lived in pataskala, ohio.  bob smith

                                          69 srl311



> From: 9laser3 at bright.net
> To: roadster at astound.net
> Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 06:27:38 -0400
> CC: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ohio?
>
> The club, like so many others, has faded away. Back in 1999 & 2000 we had
> 15 to 20 roadsters showing up for the MidOhio Vintage GP with OROC. This
> year there were 4 roadsters on the track, but none on the show field. Hang
> on to that sticker. I only have one or two left, not counting the one on my
> 1600.
>
>
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> From: Fred Katz [mailto:roadster at astound.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 1:19 AM
> To: Paul
> Cc: 'datsun-roadsters'
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ohio?
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm not from Ohio but my 70 1600 has an Ohio Datsun Roadsters Club sticker
> on the window! Is the club still active?
>
>
>
> Fred - So.SF, CA
>
> http://gallery.me.com/katzfred/100006
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 1, 2009, at 3:06 PM, Paul wrote:
>
> Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rksmith46 at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

From vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  2 21:07:39 2009
From: vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com (Vince Strazzabosco)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 20:07:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <BAY124-W499C432B35A25AC3EA0362BF0F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <825979.32817.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

When I got my '66 1600, there was an envelope inside with a flyer advertising the Dairyland Datsun Roadster Day-Out from Bill Wessel.  It advertised an upcoming gathering at the Chicago Historic Races at Road America.  On the back was a list of members who were looking for certain items.  One name stood out; Lance White, of Cincinnati, OH.  Having been in the BMW club for almost 20 years, I know a Lance White in Ohio.

Last fall, at the BMW club's Oktoberfest at Watkins Glen, NY, I caught up with Lance, and asked him if he ever had a Datsun roadster.  Indeed he did, and still has it, but I got the impression it might need a bit of work.

vince
Naperville, IL

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 21:57:32 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 20:57:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
In-Reply-To: <84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
References: <4A75CB1B.9090107@socal.rr.com>
	<84A1A8AB9056498AB1AAFE49BBC443F1@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <4A76602C.206@socal.rr.com>

Gary,

"Access that area by removing the trans tunnel shift cover plate"
 
Does the trans need to be removed from the car to do this?

(Ugh, I'm hoping not!)

Eddie



Gary and Cindy Ault wrote:
> Eddie,
>
> If your shifter won't even move to the reverse position, I'd take a 
> look at the reverse lockout spring on the shift mechanism where it 
> enters the trans, and make sure everything is in order there -- 
> nothing hanging up.  Access that area by removing the trans tunnel 
> shift cover plate.
>
> I occasionally cannot get a 4-speed or 5-speed to engage in 1st or 
> reverse. The gear shift will move to that position, but the gears just 
> don't engage. However, if, for example, I am trying to get into 
> reverse and it doesn't go, I just put it in another gear, then try 
> reverse again.  Never has failed to engage a second time.  Sometimes, 
> with the trans not turning, the gears line up just so and won't go 
> into one gear or another.  The other thing to do is put the shifter 
> into neutral, let the clutch out a little and then put it back in.  
> Also works, but takes longer than just shoving it into another gear.
>
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eddie" <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
> To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:21 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Transmission questions..
>
>
>> Just noticed something funky with the 4 sp tranny in my 1600 roadster.
>>
>> Every so often, it won't go in reverse.  The stick won't even move 
>> over to that position.  A little jiggling, and I can usually make it 
>> work, but I'm wondering what causes this and what the fix is.  Anyone 
>> know?
>>
>> Eddie
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From roadster at astound.net  Sun Aug  2 21:59:51 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 20:59:51 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] MSRP for a 1968 SPL311 ?
In-Reply-To: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E3CC3BF0-0A83-4903-A910-31834161C8C6@astound.net>

Thought I had it but not. I have a brochure listing the 1968 2000 as  
$2621, but that may be a typo because the 1967 2000 was also listed as  
$2621. Still looking for the 1968 1600.

Fred - So.SF

On Aug 2, 2009, at 3:01 PM, Dave Cooke wrote:

> I'm photoshopping up a window sticker for my Roadster. Anyone have  
> any idea
> what the MSRP was for these things in 1968?
> I have this info, but need it for 1968
>
> 1967 1600 = $2546.00
> 1968 1600 = $????.00
>
> Also, I'm using a 1967 window sticker template, does anyone know if  
> they
> were the same for all the years?
>
> -- 
> Dave Cooke
> Midwest Roadsters

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Mon Aug  3 00:52:07 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 23:52:07 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] MSRP for a 1968 SPL311 ?
References: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E259828FA3A74BD2B05ED7F045F59795@Daryl>

I have a 1969 "Motorsport in British Columbia" magazine ad (full back cover) 
which lists it at $3345 Canadian funds.......

Doesn't really help, but it's a neat ad. " How's it go? Out of 
sight!"...........

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Cooke" <cookefam314 at gmail.com>


> I'm photoshopping up a window sticker for my Roadster. Anyone have any 
> idea
> what the MSRP was for these things in 1968?
> I have this info, but need it for 1968
>
> 1967 1600 = $2546.00
> 1968 1600 = $????.00
>
> Also, I'm using a 1967 window sticker template, does anyone know if they
> were the same for all the years?
>
> -- 
> Dave Cooke
> Midwest Roadsters

From roadster2 at schroeder-family.us  Mon Aug  3 12:24:50 2009
From: roadster2 at schroeder-family.us (Fred Schroeder)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 13:24:50 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Side molding
References: <3ad057d60908020514n7897b86bg3b526832235484d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001f01ca1467$b0cd1de0$6400a8c0@efs8c31bf7afa0>

Rare?  Yes
Hard-to-find?  Very
Expensive?  Extremely!!!

Best regards,

Fred Schroeder
roadster2 at schroeder-family.us
Home page: http://schroeder-family.us
NRA Life Member

Behold the superfluous. They are always sick. They
vomit their gall and call it a newspaper.
Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche   1844-1900
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Oakes
  To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 7:14 AM
  Subject: [Roadsters] Side molding


  The re-assembly continues, now looking at the chrome molding. It's in
  ok shape, a little dull and some dings here and there. I decided to
  see how much new replacements would be, but can't find any. Are they
  rare/hard-to-find?

  thanks
  -bill

  '68 2000 Solex
  Libertyville, IL
  ________________________________________
  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  You are subscribed as roadster2 at schroeder-family.us

  Datsun-roadsters mailing list

  http://www.team.net/archive

  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com  Mon Aug  3 13:13:47 2009
From: Fergus.OFarrell at ngc.com (O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS))
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 14:13:47 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] 2000 grille badge on a 1600 grille pic?
Message-ID: <CE1C9C26CC18FD4E804F232CEC1F845102DA012F@XMBTX132.northgrum.com>

>From the volumes on "Imitation = flattery",
I recently saw a roadster car show pic (Shasta?) where someone had
mounted a 2000 center badge on a 1600 grill.
Anyone have that pic in their albums somewhere?  I have searched all the
usual suspects (aka: Alvin) but haven't found it.  It was a webshots
album, I know, because I tried to save a copy and it said I could not
because I wasn't designated a "friend".

Thanks,
Paddy O'PartsSearch
69 2000, contemplating mutiny due to lack of use

From zubkoff at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  3 14:50:33 2009
From: zubkoff at sbcglobal.net (Dan Zubkoff)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 13:50:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Side molding
Message-ID: <986511.37993.qm@web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Here is a link to a write-up by Peter Vanderpas about his experience using
brand new reproduction MGB Molding as an inexpensive alternative.

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/datsun-roadsters/2005-05/msg00003.htm
l

<SNIP>

I was looking for any oportunity to
keep costs down, and decided to try using reproduction
MGB stainless steel side moulding instead of the
original Datsun parts.  This is a daily driver, and
not a show car, so at $50 for a complete set of
moulding (including all of the fasteners) I felt it
was worth trying to make it work.  The moulding
required a cut for the front piece and door piece.
The cut was done at the front of the door and rear of
the front piece, and came out pretty clean.

The moulding came from Moss Motors, part number
453-478, if anyone is interested:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29054

If anyone is looking for a less expensive alternative
to the original roadster moulding, I think these parts
from Moss are worth looking at.

<SNIP>

Dan Zubkoff
Houston, TX

--- On Mon, 8/3/09, Fred Schroeder <roadster2 at schroeder-family.us> wrote:

> From: Fred Schroeder <roadster2 at schroeder-family.us>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Side molding
> To: boakes at gmail.com, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, August 3, 2009, 1:24 PM
> Rare?  Yes
> Hard-to-find?  Very
> Expensive?  Extremely!!!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred Schroeder
> roadster2 at schroeder-family.us
> Home page: http://schroeder-family.us
> NRA Life Member
>
> Behold the superfluous. They are always sick. They
> vomit their gall and call it a newspaper.
> Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche   1844-1900
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Bill Oakes
>   To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>   Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 7:14 AM
>   Subject: [Roadsters] Side molding
>
>
>   The re-assembly continues, now looking at the chrome
> molding. It's in
>   ok shape, a little dull and some dings here and
> there. I decided to
>   see how much new replacements would be, but can't
> find any. Are they
>   rare/hard-to-find?
>
>   thanks
>   -bill
>
>   '68 2000 Solex
>   Libertyville, IL
>   ________________________________________
>   Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>   You are subscribed as roadster2 at schroeder-family.us
>
>   Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
>   http://www.team.net/archive
>
>   http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as zubkoff at sbcglobal.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From 12061997 at comcast.net  Mon Aug  3 18:38:37 2009
From: 12061997 at comcast.net (Bob Ballinger)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 00:38:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
Message-ID: <645338983.4142571249346317487.JavaMail.root@sz0008a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi List. Was in Missouri last weekend and saw some pictures of a 67-1600 in a parade held in Brookfield Missouri a couple of weeks ago. Anyone on the list? bob ballinger 67-1600 Muncie,IN 

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  3 22:51:17 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 21:51:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] cal speedway update
Message-ID: <670009.86696.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hi everyone
i took my roadster to california speedway (sorry, i still call it that, along with "sears point"), and i wanted to share some things with you.

the good:  1.  ron carter showed up to hang out for a little while, and share some of his experience.  thanks again ron.  2.  i broke my personal best time by about 9 seconds with a 2:11.246, in the relative cool of sunday morning.  i attribute most of the improvement to now running R compound tires (R888s) where before i was running street tires (azenis).  the grip in the corners and especially under braking is amazing, compared to before.  i feel like a soccer player who suddenly got cleats.
3.  i didn't break the car.

the bad:  1. my front lug nuts won't stay tight through a full stint (8 - 10 laps).  i bought new rims for the R888s (205 50 15 on 15 x 7, 0-offest konig rewinds), and torque them to 80+ lbs before heading out.  each time on return some of the nuts are half that.  some are looser.... can i use loc-tite on my lug nuts?  should i? 2.  my front volvo calipers stick, always slightly against the rotor, sometimes so much so that i can't turn the wheel by hand.  i open them up before i go out, and come back and they're stuck again.  i'm running hawk blue pads, and Castrol GT-LMA.  when they stick, they heat up so fast, that i lost my pedal early in some stints.  pumping brings the pedal back, and if i start pumping early, i can still drive somewhat effectively.  but it's not the hot setup.  hehe.  ok it is.  4.  oil pressure guage reads around 40 at idle, over 50 when running 45 mph to the gas station, and about 30 or so on the track, at speed.  i have the
 stock guage, but a fairly new one.  i run mobil 1 in the 7 qt alum pan (i forget the wt offhand), with competition baffle, and U20 oil pump (in my H20).

the ugly.  thankfully, nothing i can think of.  i'm really happy about the new PB, and how much fun i had pushing this little car around the track.  i pushed it hard, and it did great.

there is still alot to do to the car, but the fun factor is right now, through the roof!

s
675MIZU

From tomuo at comcast.net  Mon Aug  3 23:00:34 2009
From: tomuo at comcast.net (Tom Duffy)
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 2009 22:00:34 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] MSRP for a 1968 SPL311 ?
In-Reply-To: <E3CC3BF0-0A83-4903-A910-31834161C8C6@astound.net>
References: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>
	<E3CC3BF0-0A83-4903-A910-31834161C8C6@astound.net>
Message-ID: <4A77C072.8040607@comcast.net>

My copy of Motor Trend for August 1970 has a review of the Datsun,
Triumph Spitfire, Fiat 850 and MG Midget. (got off ebay a while back)
It describes the Datsun 1600 as having a base price of $2766, but I
think it is for the 1969 model, given that the pictures show a SPL311
with side markers.

Tom.

From egustavson at bigpond.com  Tue Aug  4 02:04:47 2009
From: egustavson at bigpond.com (Eric)
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 2009 18:04:47 +1000
Subject: [Roadsters] cal speedway update
In-Reply-To: <670009.86696.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <670009.86696.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A77EB9F.2070609@bigpond.com>

Hey Steven,
thanks for the great posting, and the fun factor level report. 'through
the roof!' is pretty high in anyone's book, though perhaps more likely
when driving a Datsun roadster...

best wishes,
Eric in Townsville


steven boortz wrote:
> hi everyone
> i took my roadster to california speedway (sorry, i still call it that,
along with "sears point"), and i wanted to share some things with you.
>
> the good:  1.  ron carter showed up to hang out for a little while, and
share some of his experience.  thanks again ron.  2.  i broke my personal best
time by about 9 seconds with a 2:11.246, in the relative cool of sunday
morning.  i attribute most of the improvement to now running R compound tires
(R888s) where before i was running street tires (azenis).  the grip in the
corners and especially under braking is amazing, compared to before.  i feel
like a soccer player who suddenly got cleats.
> 3.  i didn't break the car.
>
> the bad:  1. my front lug nuts won't stay tight through a full stint (8 - 10
laps).  i bought new rims for the R888s (205 50 15 on 15 x 7, 0-offest konig
rewinds), and torque them to 80+ lbs before heading out.  each time on return
some of the nuts are half that.  some are looser.... can i use loc-tite on my
lug nuts?  should i? 2.  my front volvo calipers stick, always slightly
against the rotor, sometimes so much so that i can't turn the wheel by hand.
i open them up before i go out, and come back and they're stuck again.  i'm
running hawk blue pads, and Castrol GT-LMA.  when they stick, they heat up so
fast, that i lost my pedal early in some stints.  pumping brings the pedal
back, and if i start pumping early, i can still drive somewhat effectively.
but it's not the hot setup.  hehe.  ok it is.  4.  oil pressure guage reads
around 40 at idle, over 50 when running 45 mph to the gas station, and about
30 or so on the track, at speed.  i have the
>  stock guage, but a fairly new one.  i run mobil 1 in the 7 qt alum pan (i
forget the wt offhand), with competition baffle, and U20 oil pump (in my
H20).
>
> the ugly.  thankfully, nothing i can think of.  i'm really happy about the
new PB, and how much fun i had pushing this little car around the track.  i
pushed it hard, and it did great.
>
> there is still alot to do to the car, but the fun factor is right now,
through the roof!
>
> s
> 675MIZU
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as egustavson at bigpond.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Aug  4 05:05:44 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 7:05:44 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadster For Sale
Message-ID: <20090804070544.43438.2899364.root@mp11>

My Dad has checked out that 69 1600 that is for sale near Yuba City, CA. 

Email me if you are interested in the pics he took or what he has to say about the car. 

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Aug  4 06:19:24 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 5:19:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] test
Message-ID: <20090804081924.5RXDV.2901911.root@mp11>


From mantolik at oh.rr.com  Tue Aug  4 10:28:07 2009
From: mantolik at oh.rr.com (Mark Antolik)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 12:28:07 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
Message-ID: <003101ca1520$8d1e9950$0a01a8c0@marka64>

I am still here...not sure of who else!

Mark
Amherst, OH 

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 6:07 PM
To: 'datsun-roadsters'
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?

  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?

 

Paul

1969 1600
You are subscribed as mantolik at oh.rr.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From slowboy at cox.net  Tue Aug  4 12:07:21 2009
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 11:07:21 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <003101ca1520$8d1e9950$0a01a8c0@marka64>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
	<003101ca1520$8d1e9950$0a01a8c0@marka64>
Message-ID: <A55D8C578F4F44F9B46FFF2695205EF4@M7170N>

Let's face it, they moved to Michigan for the Blue & Yellow!



-----Original Message-----
 [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?

  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Tue Aug  4 13:45:06 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:45:06 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <A55D8C578F4F44F9B46FFF2695205EF4@M7170N>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
	<003101ca1520$8d1e9950$0a01a8c0@marka64> 
	<A55D8C578F4F44F9B46FFF2695205EF4@M7170N>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W2808A52A6F7C7A54863A2A9B0C0@phx.gbl>

They would have been way better off coming here to Big Red!!



Plus, once we get they Dairyland Datsuns back together, we will have two
things on MI!



LOL



Dan


> From: slowboy at cox.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 11:07:21 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Ohio?
>
> Let's face it, they moved to Michigan for the Blue & Yellow!
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
> Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
>
> Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as d_kroninger at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

_________________________________________________________________
Get free photo software from Windows Live
http://www.windowslive.com/online/photos?ocid=PID23393::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US
:SI_PH_software:082009

From brycejparker at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  4 17:22:38 2009
From: brycejparker at yahoo.com (Bryce Parker)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 16:22:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Heading West on I-84 in Nampa
Message-ID: <699922.27965.qm@web110508.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Saw a nice looking red Datsun roadster heading West on I-84 in Nampa, Idaho
last week.  I was heading East so not exactly sure of year or model, but I
thought it was a low windshield.  Is it anyone on the list?
 
If so, let me know - I'd like to get in touch as I am starting a resto on a
'67 1600 - it is now safe & sound in my garage after it's long journey from
Texas.  A couple of pics are attached.
 
Bryce Parker
Meridian, ID

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Datsun 001.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Datsun 005.jpg]

From mikecox at mac.com  Tue Aug  4 17:59:07 2009
From: mikecox at mac.com (Michael D Cox)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 07:59:07 +0800
Subject: [Roadsters] Ohio?
In-Reply-To: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
References: <000901ca12f4$62bdb340$283919c0$@net>
Message-ID: <129251477901596741855950880519809633398-Webmail@me.com>

Hi Paul,

Ohio?  Technically yes.  My 69 2000 is in Bryan, Ohio up in the northwest corner of the state.  Had her on the road for the past two months while visiting my parents but is now parked in their heated garage until June when I next return.  I am on my way back to my teaching job in Singapore...wish I could have taken her with me.

Mike


On Sunday, August 02, 2009, at 06:06AM, "Paul" <9laser3 at bright.net> wrote:
>  Anybody left on the list from Ohio?
>
> 
>
>Paul
>
>1969 1600
>________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Aug  4 22:14:25 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:14:25 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] MSRP for a 1968 SPL311 ?
In-Reply-To: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83a7d2520908021501lc87d694g791f299fde84b53f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003301ca1583$3894b7d0$a9be2770$@net>

The Dec 1968 issue of Foreign Car Guide lists it as $2766, but it isn't
clear from the article if this is for a 1968 or 1969 model.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 3:02 PM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] MSRP for a 1968 SPL311 ?

I'm photoshopping up a window sticker for my Roadster. Anyone have any idea
what the MSRP was for these things in 1968?
I have this info, but need it for 1968

1967 1600 = $2546.00
1968 1600 = $????.00

Also, I'm using a 1967 window sticker template, does anyone know if they
were the same for all the years?

-- 
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gregs672liter at netzero.net  Thu Aug  6 01:14:01 2009
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net (gregs672liter at netzero.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 07:14:01 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] test
Message-ID: <20090806.001401.19951.1@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>

Are my posts getting to the list?
Also, anybody know what the spring rate was for stock and comp rear springs?
Thanks!
Greg Burrows
____________________________________________________________
Free info for small business owners.  Click here to find great products geared
for your business.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYWIQV26Dvs6hPqz3EgoZ1O8O
IYR31LZqDMayRtSHNlaWP09htMOdy/

From jeremymayne at msn.com  Thu Aug  6 09:22:09 2009
From: jeremymayne at msn.com (jeremy mayne)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 15:22:09 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Stroker motor update
In-Reply-To: <670009.86696.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <670009.86696.qm@web81405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL115-W664AB69FE1AE9645B92A3B70A0@phx.gbl>

Hi all,



Hearing some stories about roadsters on the track made me want to chime in
about my recent roadster endeavors.  I did get a little track time a few
weekends ago when a friend of my brother's invited us out to Sandia Motor
Speedway, where he had rented the track to do some testing on his Triumph TR6
race car.  Between the testing, we had the track to ourselves for a few hours
and I did at least a dozen laps on the full roadcourse.  The roadster ran
well, with the stroker motor powering out of corners nicely, and once the
tires warmed up, it handled well too, with a nice balanced feel.  My brother
brought his street modified TR6, so we were on the track at the same time
(though we kind of kept our distance from each other, since this was a "run at
your own risk" track time).



I've also written up a detailed account of my engine build experience, along
with some photos, if anyone's interested.  You should be able to get to it at
the following link: http://www.retromod-mag.com/datsun-roadster



Jeremy Mayne

70 SPL

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  6 09:46:14 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 08:46:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] aluminum radiators
Message-ID: <563570.2484.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hi everyone
does anyone have any experience with Champion Radiators i see often on eBay?  they advertise a 3 row aluminum Roadster radiator for less the $200.  seems too good to be true, which usually means one thing....
thanks in advance
steve
675MIZU

From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Thu Aug  6 10:18:30 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (vze2fhba at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 2009 11:18:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] aluminum radiators
Message-ID: <1346122863.2802609.1249575510656.JavaMail.root@vms170003.mailsrvcs.net>

/rZ93oR: Permission denied

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 11:37:47 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 17:37:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <563570.2484.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <176168935.1343921249580267942.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Discussed on 311s.org forums: 

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10241 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "steven boortz" <vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com> 
To: "roadsters" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 8:46:14 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] aluminum radiators 

hi everyone 
does anyone have any experience with Champion Radiators i see often on eBay? they advertise a 3 row aluminum Roadster radiator for less the $200. seems too good to be true, which usually means one thing.... 
thanks in advance 
steve 
675MIZU 

From edmitche at gmail.com  Thu Aug  6 11:53:20 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 11:53:20 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] timing obviously is everything
Message-ID: <4a7b1892.1b068e0a.2cfa.ffff8a00@mx.google.com>

Hi All,

 

Timing question.

 

On my timing cover.there's a fin.looks like a timing pointer to me for my
timing alignment.but maybe it's a fin to structurally support the timing
cover.

 

And the manual shows a pointer that comes up from behind the pulley...and
over the top of the belt channel (sorry if my verbiage isn't technically
sound)

 

I've uploaded a picture of my madness (1st- two pics) at
http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

 

 

And a picture of what the Datsun Manual shows (grainy but viewable)

 

And if the pointer is missing?  What to do?  What to do?  

 

Thanks

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces, NM

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 13:09:44 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:09:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] timing obviously is everything
In-Reply-To: <4a7b1892.1b068e0a.2cfa.ffff8a00@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <316372833.1385251249585784531.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, that is the timing pointer. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Mitchell" <edmitche at gmail.com> 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 10:53:20 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] timing obviously is everything 


Hi All, 

Timing question. 

On my timing cover. there's a fin. looks like a timing pointer to me for my timing alignment. but maybe it's a fin to structurally support the timing cover. 

And the manual shows a pointer that comes up from behind the pulley... and over the top of the belt channel (sorry if my verbiage isn't technically sound) 

I've uploaded a picture of my madness (1st- two pics) at: 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG 

And a picture of what the Datsun Manual shows (grainy but viewable) 

And if the pointer is missing? What to do? What to do? 

Thanks 

Ed Mitchell 

Las Cruces, NM 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761 

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 13:16:41 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:16:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates
In-Reply-To: <1844885811.1387061249586069397.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Big, interesting discussion on 311s.org regarding rear springs and mono-leaf replacements: 

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10068 

In that discussion, it's mentioned that the stock rear leafs are rated at 150lb/inch, but no one seems to know what the comp leafs are rated at. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 12:14:01 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] test 

[snip] 

Also, anybody know what the spring rate was for stock and comp rear springs? 
Thanks! 

Greg Burrows 

From itz4tj12 at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  6 13:23:05 2009
From: itz4tj12 at ca.rr.com (Rita Trujillo)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 12:23:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] NEST DATSUN RUN OR CAR SHOW
Message-ID: <001901ca16cb$532d2480$f9876d80$@rr.com>

<file:///C:\Program%20Files\Common%20Files\Microsoft%20Shared\Sta
tionery\fieruled.gif> 

 

LET ME KNOW WHEN THE NEXT CAR SHOW OR RUN IS.

 

I LIVE IN SOUTHERN CA. AROUND LOS ANGELES.

 

 

Rita Trujillo

From gregs672liter at netzero.net  Thu Aug  6 14:38:27 2009
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net (gregs672liter at netzero.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 20:38:27 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] seat belts
Message-ID: <20090806.133827.21164.1@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

Ok, this is the 3rd time I've tried to post this!  Apparently it is not
hitting the list...
I have an excellent, undamaged used set (driver and passenger) of 3 inch 5
point harnesses for sale.  Color is black, made by RCI, latch type mechanism,
has anti-sub belt and uses a Y harness for the shoulders.  They bolt into
stock placements other than the anti-sub where you have to drill a hole on the
floor in front of your seats (no big deal, and I highly recommend the anti-sub
as you will be much more secure).  Belts adjust easily even when on, as you
can loosen the shoulders without undoing the latch to move around the car.  If
you have never used 5 points you will be amazed at how much more secure you
feel in the car, especially at speed around the corners!  Asking $40/obo plus
shipping from 98391.  If nobody is interested I will be taking them to the
Blue Lake run this weekend if I go, or will put them on craigslist next week.
Thanks!
Greg Burrows
____________________________________________________________
Workers Compensation Legal Advice. Click here
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYbk8tVT33bn5qZ6CvVoSsfDa
CSfWMjHGZLg7pa86hDownYcJ7Xs7u/

From gsm at gregorysmorrison.com  Thu Aug  6 14:43:48 2009
From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com (Gregory S. Morrison)
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 2009 13:43:48 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] FW: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)
In-Reply-To: <96281E88E180F349998518C4552C4D4A3AF18D@gem.gonzaga.edu>
Message-ID: <C6A08E9E.1B129%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>

These are near Spokane WA. I don't know anything else about them. Hope this
helps someone on the List.
-Greg
SRL31100494


------ Forwarded Message
From: "Smith, Aaron T" <smitha at plant.gonzaga.edu>
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 13:17:18 -0700
To: "Gregory S. Morrison" <gsm at gregorysmorrison.com>
Conversation: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)
Subject: RE: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)

Here are a couple of pictures.  The car is definitely a project.  Aaron

-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory S. Morrison [mailto:gsm at gregorysmorrison.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:32 AM
To: sale-dtmhp-1308213018 at craigslist.org
Subject: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)

** CRAIGSLIST ADVISORY --- AVOID SCAMS BY DEALING LOCALLY
** Avoid:  wiring money, cross-border deals, work-at-home
** Beware: cashier checks, money orders, escrow, shipping
** More Info:  http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams.html



http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1308213018.html


Please email pictures. Don't need many, just enough to see what you've
got
for sale. Thanks.




------------------------------------------------------------------
this message was remailed to you via:
sale-dtmhp-1308213018 at craigslist.org
------------------------------------------------------------------

------ End of Forwarded Message

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From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  6 17:00:15 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 16:00:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates
In-Reply-To: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <993754.61543.qm@web36303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I haven't been following the 311s topic but just checked it out briefly.  Since it's 8 pages long now, I haven't read thru it all yet.  

However, my 1998 NISMO catalog indicates the rear comp springs are rated at 207lb/in.  Front comps are 862 lb/in.

For my autocross purposes, it seemed the rear comp springs were too stiff, so I removed the short leaves from the springs.  It softened it up enough to make it handle more neutrally.  I also removed the NISMO rear sway bar and added a panhard rod.  But after removing the short leaves from the rear comp springs, the rear end bottoms out on the bump stops on severe road bumps on the street and it hurts.   

Since haven't bought a NISMO catalog in several years, today I googled NISMO catalog and they have it online now.  I found that the online catalog does not have anything for our roadsters.  But it was amusing that they comp parts for a 240ZX.  I haven't seen a 240ZX yet.  Has anyone else? 

I'll post this on the 311s forum too.
Gary Boone
1970 SRL311 with EFI'd U20, running better all the time, but more tuning ahead. 
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/271132
To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 1:16:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates

Big, interesting discussion on 311s.org regarding rear springs and mono-leaf replacements: 

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10068 

In that discussion, it's mentioned that the stock rear leafs are rated at 150lb/inch, but no one seems to know what the comp leafs are rated at. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 12:14:01 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] test 

[snip] 

Also, anybody know what the spring rate was for stock and comp rear springs? 
Thanks! 

Greg Burrows 
You are subscribed as gboone70 at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  6 17:17:31 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 16:17:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates
In-Reply-To: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <19165.81682.qm@web36304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I haven't been following the 311s topic but just checked it out
briefly.  Since it's 8 pages long now, I haven't read thru it all yet.  

However, my 1998 NISMO catalog indicates the rear comp springs are rated at 207lb/in.  Front comps are 862 lb/in.

For my autocross purposes, it seemed the rear comp springs were too stiff, so I removed the short leaves from the springs.  It softened it up enough to make it handle more neutrally.  I also removed the NISMO rear sway bar and added a panhard rod. 
But after removing the short leaves from the rear comp springs, the
rear end bottoms out on the bump stops on severe road bumps on the
street and it hurts.   

Since haven't bought a NISMO catalog in
several years, today I googled NISMO catalog and they have it online
now.  I found that the online catalog does not have anything for our
roadsters.  But it was amusing that they comp parts for a 240ZX.  I
haven't seen a 240ZX yet.  Has anyone else? 

I'll post this on the 311s forum too.
Gary Boone
1970 SRL311 with EFI'd U20, running better all the time, but more tuning ahead. 
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/271132
To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 1:16:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates

Big, interesting discussion on 311s.org regarding rear springs and mono-leaf replacements: 

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10068 

In that discussion, it's mentioned that the stock rear leafs are rated at 150lb/inch, but no one seems to know what the comp leafs are rated at. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 12:14:01 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] test 

[snip] 

Also, anybody know what the spring rate was for stock and comp rear springs? 
Thanks! 

Greg Burrows 

From bhollan4 at tampabay.rr.com  Thu Aug  6 20:11:17 2009
From: bhollan4 at tampabay.rr.com (Brian Hollands)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 22:11:17 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates
In-Reply-To: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090807021117644.XGEE5639@hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com>

205lbs/in
At least that's what I remember but I also remember the stock springs to be
about 180lbs/in.

________________________________
Brian Hollands
'69 2000
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----


In that discussion, it's mentioned that the stock rear leafs are rated at
150lb/inch, but no one seems to know what the comp leafs are rated at. 

From gregs672liter at netzero.net  Fri Aug  7 01:08:36 2009
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net (gregs672liter at netzero.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 07:08:36 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] seat belts
Message-ID: <20090807.000836.17845.3@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

Hi gang, as so often happens when people post parts to the list, it results in
a barrage of emails with interest.  To keep it fair, the first person to
respond was Steve Wells (in 6 minutes!), followed by Tom Hendricks.  Steve has
expressed interest, while Tom has said he would buy.  Several more of you are
in similar categories.  So Steve, since you were first it is in your court.
If you do not want them, then Tom is next up and so on.  I like to keep this
public and fair (I remember the feeding frenzy that occured when I gave away
my front brake calipers and stuff on the list!).  I'm not going to do a
bidding war, as to me that is not fair (i.e. if someone wants to pay the $40,
I won't be asking for $50.  At the same time, if someone wants to offer me $30
and I have someone who will give me the original $40 I asked, then the $40
wins... seem fair?).
I await your response Steve :-)
Hope everyone is cool with this...
Greg
____________________________________________________________
Click here to find experienced pros to help with your home improvement
project.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYW3CNYBaQklmw4nq3Ohm3qib
zfeL2OKA8x7C9ogmCLjE5zxQYwBuY/

From mitch at brooks-planck.org  Fri Aug  7 06:51:23 2009
From: mitch at brooks-planck.org (Mitchell Planck)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 08:51:23 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates
In-Reply-To: <20090807021117644.XGEE5639@hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090807021117644.XGEE5639@hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7cc4dd590908070551n5009c745n5066e14663bd41e1@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know the spring rates but I have a scan of the catalog on my site.
The Roadster specific pages are 36 & 37. (
http://brooks-planck.org/DatsunDiaries/compmanual3.asp)

-Mitch

On Thu, Aug 6, 2009 at 10:11 PM, Brian Hollands <bhollan4 at tampabay.rr.com>wrote:

> 205lbs/in
> At least that's what I remember but I also remember the stock springs to be
> about 180lbs/in.
>
> ________________________________
> Brian Hollands
> '69 2000
> Tampa, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> In that discussion, it's mentioned that the stock rear leafs are rated at
> 150lb/inch, but no one seems to know what the comp leafs are rated at.
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mitch at brooks-planck.org
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From shant at techrg.com  Fri Aug  7 07:27:00 2009
From: shant at techrg.com (Shant Saroukhanian)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 09:27:00 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] light grease to replace oil in gearbox?
Message-ID: <200908071326.n77DQx5S010463@necco.techrg.com>

Has anyone heard of putting in lightweight grease in the steering gearbox to
replace the standard gear oil?

 

This would certainly solve any gear box leaks.... Does anyone have any
experience with this and can confirm longevity of a gearbox using this
modification of lubrication?

 

Shant

67 1600

www.detroitdatsun.com <http://www.detroitdatsun.com/> 

From RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM  Fri Aug  7 07:47:26 2009
From: RSCHLEGEL at OCSD.COM (Schlegel, Richard)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 06:47:26 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] NEXT DATSUN RUN OR CAR SHOW
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21541.1249628970.20693.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21541.1249628970.20693.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7205D7C8DE0E724A8EBBB88675FBE8CCC597DE3A@e07ms1.insideocsd.com>

Hi Rita!
Check out our club website. www.SoCalROC.net
It's for the SoCal Roadster Owners Club. Chris keeps it up-to-date with the
latest Car shows we host and others.

Take Care,
Rich
'68 1600
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/IAmRockinRich
Member of the SoCalROC
http://www.SoCalROC.org
Video of SoCalROC from the 2008 Japanese Classic Car Show
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-kkdkaRRco


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 12:23:05 -0700
From: "Rita Trujillo" <itz4tj12 at ca.rr.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] NEST DATSUN RUN OR CAR SHOW

LET ME KNOW WHEN THE NEXT CAR SHOW OR RUN IS.
I LIVE IN SOUTHERN CA. AROUND LOS ANGELES.
Rita Trujillo

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Fri Aug  7 09:52:43 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 08:52:43 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates
In-Reply-To: <977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1844885811.1387061249586069397.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<977829758.1387881249586201437.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01ca1777$1a481880$4ed84980$@net>

Comp rears are 207 lb/in.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Peters
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 12:17 PM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] stock & comp rear spring rates

Big, interesting discussion on 311s.org regarding rear springs and mono-leaf
replacements: 

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10068 

In that discussion, it's mentioned that the stock rear leafs are rated at
150lb/inch, but no one seems to know what the comp leafs are rated at. 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: gregs672liter at netzero.net 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 12:14:01 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] test 

[snip] 

Also, anybody know what the spring rate was for stock and comp rear springs?

Thanks! 

Greg Burrows 
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Fri Aug  7 16:11:01 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 18:11:01 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] light grease to replace oil in gearbox?
In-Reply-To: <200908071326.n77DQx5S010463@necco.techrg.com>
References: <200908071326.n77DQx5S010463@necco.techrg.com>
Message-ID: <007501ca17ab$f41936a0$dc4ba3e0$@net>

  I've heard of it being done before, but why?  Maybe just to get you back
home after you find the steering box dry, but not to keep driving.  Think of
the concerqueces if the steering box suddenly locks up on a drive through
your favorite curves?

  Do yourself a favor, fix it, or replace it.

IMHO,
Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shant
Saroukhanian
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 9:27 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] light grease to replace oil in gearbox?

Has anyone heard of putting in lightweight grease in the steering gearbox to
replace the standard gear oil?

 

This would certainly solve any gear box leaks.... Does anyone have any
experience with this and can confirm longevity of a gearbox using this
modification of lubrication?

 

Shant

67 1600

www.detroitdatsun.com <http://www.detroitdatsun.com/> 
You are subscribed as 9laser3 at bright.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From aultgc at att.net  Fri Aug  7 20:12:18 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 21:12:18 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] light grease to replace oil in gearbox?
References: <200908071326.n77DQx5S010463@necco.techrg.com>
Message-ID: <2BA108018ABB44D3AFEF2E33ADE5594E@gaxp1>

Shant,

I bought a used Type A box on eBay several months ago, and discovered that 
it was filed with lithium moly grease instead of gear oil.  I was told that 
this had probably been done because the lower seal was leaking, and the car 
owner did not care to pull the box to replace the seal.  Since I was 
replacing the original box with the used counterpart, I cleaned out the 
grease, replaced the seal, and filled the box with 90 weight gear oil.  It 
does not leak.

In my opinion, since grease doesn't flow like oil, grease will not maintain 
as good a film of lubricant between the worm gear and roller peg, but I 
really don't know.  What I do know is Nissan designed the box for gear oil, 
and I trust they probably had a pretty good reason.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shant Saroukhanian" <shant at techrg.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 8:27 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] light grease to replace oil in gearbox?


> Has anyone heard of putting in lightweight grease in the steering gearbox 
> to
> replace the standard gear oil?
>
>
>
> This would certainly solve any gear box leaks.... Does anyone have any
> experience with this and can confirm longevity of a gearbox using this
> modification of lubrication?
>
>
>
> Shant
>
> 67 1600
>
> www.detroitdatsun.com <http://www.detroitdatsun.com/>
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Fri Aug  7 21:41:20 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:20 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadsters at Mission Raceway
Message-ID: <D26C5BE1A24F4DE8B40970CE13CD61AE@Daryl>

http://formulaphoto.com/2009/07/2009-westwood50-sunday/

Couple of pictures of Datsun Roadsters at the recent Historic Races at Mission Raceway in BC.

From roadsterx at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  7 22:34:10 2009
From: roadsterx at hotmail.com (michael poorboy)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 04:34:10 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Roadsters at Mission Raceway
In-Reply-To: <D26C5BE1A24F4DE8B40970CE13CD61AE@Daryl>
References: <D26C5BE1A24F4DE8B40970CE13CD61AE@Daryl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W30CDADF5DC5DB37E3AB426BF080@phx.gbl>

Car # 13 is Guy Selle's old car. I don't recognize car #18.



> Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 20:41:20 -0700
> From: drlsmith at dccnet.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Roadsters at Mission Raceway
>
> http://formulaphoto.com/2009/07/2009-westwood50-sunday/
>
> Couple of pictures of Datsun Roadsters at the recent Historic Races at
Mission Raceway in BC.
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as roadsterx at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From edmitche at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 12:01:32 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 12:01:32 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] Dead Betty   -  LIVES!
Message-ID: <4a7dbd7a.16078e0a.6fde.49db@mx.google.com>

Well.Finally.

 

Wanted to thank all of you guys and gals who held my hand thru this madness.

 

but she's finally running.3.5 years later.maiden voyage was successful.no
dieing in the desert and leaving me stranded.no long walks home with my head
held oh so low

 

I'm off to get an alignment tues  :-)

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all 

 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

 

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces New Mexico

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sat Aug  8 12:39:25 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 11:39:25 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Dead Betty   -  LIVES!
In-Reply-To: <4a7dbd7a.16078e0a.6fde.49db@mx.google.com>
References: <4a7dbd7a.16078e0a.6fde.49db@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <4A7DC65D.40709@socal.rr.com>

Congrats!

Ed Mitchell wrote:
> Well.Finally.
>
>  
>
> Wanted to thank all of you guys and gals who held my hand thru this madness.
>
>  
>
> but she's finally running.3.5 years later.maiden voyage was successful.no
> dieing in the desert and leaving me stranded.no long walks home with my head
> held oh so low
>
>  
>
> I'm off to get an alignment tues  :-)
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Thanks to all 
>
>  
>
> 1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761
>
>  
>
> http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Ed Mitchell
>
> Las Cruces New Mexico
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  8 16:56:38 2009
From: fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com (Patti Dwinell)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 15:56:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Dead Betty   -  LIVES!
In-Reply-To: <4a7dbd7a.16078e0a.6fde.49db@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <768531.10820.qm@web53501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Congratulations, Ed!!!   What are you going to call her now?....."Lively
Betty"?

Patti

From rlabate at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  8 22:42:02 2009
From: rlabate at sbcglobal.net (Ritchie Labate)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:42:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Testing the AM radio
Message-ID: <263155.24713.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just want to make sure I've connected everything correctly with a newly acquired, original Toshiba AM radio for my '68 2000.

Connected the blue wire from harness to blue wire from radio (has inline 2a fuse).
Attached a black wire to the back of radio by screw as a ground.
Connected the 2 white speaker wires to one external speaker to test.

A backlight came on when I powered on but no sound as I adjusted the dial.
Any other suggestions? Are these Toshibas repairable if I took them to a shop?

Thank you for any feedback,

Ritch

From tom at datsun2000.com  Sun Aug  9 00:52:31 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 23:52:31 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Testing the AM radio
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGKEMODHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

Ritch,

I assume you connected either an automotive antenna, or a wire into the
antenna connector.  AM radio's don't work will without an antenna.

If that does not fix your sound problem you may have a radio with a circuit
problem.  Keith Williams' father has begun to repair these radios for us.
If you can't get it going send Keith a note.

I have a factory radio for a 67 1300 pickup that I will be testing in much
the same manner as you described.  If it works I will see if there is anyone
interested in it.  It is likely very similar to the roadster radio with a
horizontal escutcheon (dial face) rather than vertical as in used in the
high windsield roadsters.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org

On 8/8/2009 9:42:02 PM, Ritchie Labate (rlabate at sbcglobal.net) wrote:
> I just want to make sure
> I've connected everything correctly with a newly acquired, original
Toshiba AM radio for my '68
> 2000.
>
> Connected the blue wire from harness to blue wire from radio (has inline
> 2a fuse).
> Attached a black wire to the back of radio by screw as a ground.
> Connected the 2 white speaker wires to one external speaker to test.
>
> A backlight came on when I powered on but no sound as I adjusted the dial.
>
> Any other suggestions? Are these Toshibas repairable if I took them to a
> shop?
>
> Thank you for any feedback,
>
> Ritch
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as tom at datsun2000.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tomet9 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  9 09:48:07 2009
From: tomet9 at sbcglobal.net (Tom PRATHER)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 08:48:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
Message-ID: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,
               Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat finish from
otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got my eyes
set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on inner
spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm assuming
that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal finish
experts out there? Thanks,

From RacerY at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 11:01:12 2009
From: RacerY at comcast.net (Toby B)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 10:01:12 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Steering gear lube...
Message-ID: <1a8733b20908091001x18aa997fwe46a36b14f86663b@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, actually-
GM used to supply a tube of 'steering gear lubricant' for use in their
older trucks-
it was actually a very heavy high- pressure oil that would do exactly
as you describe.
It 'flowed' enough so that it would re- coat the surfaces of the worm
after you turned the
wheel, but not so much that it could make it out of the bottom seal.
Worked great- I used it in several cars with great results.
Sadly, I haven't been able to find it for years...

As long as whatever you put in there is high pressure (or extreme pressure, etc)
and isn't so thick that it can't flow under normal conditions, it's a
whole bunch
better than letting it run dry.  Modern lubes are light- years better
than what Nissan
had when they designed the box...

Toby
Seattle

>Subject: [Roadsters] light grease to replace oil in gearbox?

>Has anyone heard of putting in lightweight grease in the steering gearbox to
>replace the standard gear oil?

>This would certainly solve any gear box leaks.... Does anyone have any
>experience with this and can confirm longevity of a gearbox using this
>modification of lubrication?

>Shant

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug  9 11:20:47 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 10:20:47 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
In-Reply-To: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A7F056F.8080105@socal.rr.com>

Sandblasting...


Tom PRATHER wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>                Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat finish from
> otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got my eyes
> set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on inner
> spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm assuming
> that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal finish
> experts out there? Thanks,
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Sun Aug  9 11:28:27 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 12:28:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
In-Reply-To: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A7F073B.7030803@mail.utexas.edu>

Tom,

I know a powder coater and will ask tomorrow. Seems to me he media 
blasts most of his stuff.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Tom PRATHER, On 8/9/2009 10:48 AM:
> Hi Listers,
>                Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat finish from
> otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got my eyes
> set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on inner
> spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm assuming
> that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal finish
> experts out there? Thanks,
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tomet9 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  9 12:42:21 2009
From: tomet9 at sbcglobal.net (Tom PRATHER)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 11:42:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Powder coat removal
Message-ID: <457156.53975.qm@web81007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just found out that paint remover / gasket remover will work to remove this coating. Powder coating is basically paints/epoxys that are applied thru a different method, specifically electrostaticly. 

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug  9 12:56:30 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 11:56:30 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Powder coat removal
In-Reply-To: <457156.53975.qm@web81007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <457156.53975.qm@web81007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A7F1BDE.6070406@socal.rr.com>

Powder coating is when the metal is "charged" and a paint in powder form 
is blown onto the metal.  The electrostatic charge makes the powder 
stick to the metal. 

Then, the object is put in an oven and baked, where the paint powder 
then melts and coats the object.

I'm not sure paint remover will take it off.  The stuff is pretty darn 
durable, and one of the best ways to insure something won't rust and 
will look good for a long time.

Give it a try, but don't be surprised if it doesn't come off, or 
requires a TON of elbow grease....

Eddie

Tom PRATHER wrote:
> I just found out that paint remover / gasket remover will work to remove this coating. Powder coating is basically paints/epoxys that are applied thru a different method, specifically electrostaticly. 
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From dszakovits at cfl.rr.com  Sun Aug  9 13:51:06 2009
From: dszakovits at cfl.rr.com (David Szakovits)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 15:51:06 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] removing powder coating
Message-ID: <4A7F28AA.5090107@cfl.rr.com>

when i was at the powder coating shop here, i was considering getting my 
wheels coated and asked the question about removing.   he said they use 
the kleen-strip aircraft remover.   this is entirely hearsay, i have not 
done it.

There are other strippers that are similar to aircraft stripper.  i use 
a 'heavy duty' stripper from local ace hardware because it is convenient 
to buy and it seems to work really well.  i don't pick the least 
expensive product though.  i have used the 'aircraft remover' often and 
it too works well.  i have not tested the 'compliant' version of 
aircraft remover, just the original.

even with paint the way the stuff works is highly variable.  some of the 
best paints strip the easiest,  while old lacquer primer just turns to 
snot like goo.  i have a feeling the powder coat will bubble up nicely.  
just guessing.

djs

From roadster at astound.net  Sun Aug  9 14:01:24 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 13:01:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
In-Reply-To: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5DC48CF7-043F-4441-9319-DF0AE3694248@astound.net>

Eastwood sells a "Powder Coat and Paint Dissolver". It's expensive,  
$21 a quart, or $73 a gallon. But it's re-usable and environment-safe.  
Supposedly you immerse the item, or run the chemical over the item for  
a few minutes, then rinse with cold water. It says safe for aluminum.  
I haven't tried it yet, just reading from their catalog description. www.eastwood.com 
   - item #12849

Fred - So.SF

On Aug 9, 2009, at 8:48 AM, Tom PRATHER wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>               Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat  
> finish from
> otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got  
> my eyes
> set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on  
> inner
> spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out.  
> I'm assuming
> that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal  
> finish
> experts out there? Thanks,

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Sun Aug  9 14:14:15 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 15:14:15 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
In-Reply-To: <5DC48CF7-043F-4441-9319-DF0AE3694248@astound.net>
References: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<5DC48CF7-043F-4441-9319-DF0AE3694248@astound.net>
Message-ID: <4A7F2E17.6060507@mail.utexas.edu>

While on the subject of powdercoating and wheels, I asked the local 
fellow how he is able to coat wheels and get the coverage down in the 
cracks even. He says his trick is to prep the wheel, then put it in an 
oven and get the wheel up to melting temperature. Then he applies the 
powder as usual, then back in the oven for the bake.

I have seen some steel wheels he did and they came out really well.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Fred Katz, On 8/9/2009 3:01 PM:
> Eastwood sells a "Powder Coat and Paint Dissolver". It's expensive, 
> $21 a quart, or $73 a gallon. But it's re-usable and environment-safe. 
> Supposedly you immerse the item, or run the chemical over the item for 
> a few minutes, then rinse with cold water. It says safe for aluminum. 
> I haven't tried it yet, just reading from their catalog description. 
> www.eastwood.com  - item #12849
>
> Fred - So.SF
>
> On Aug 9, 2009, at 8:48 AM, Tom PRATHER wrote:
>
>> Hi Listers,
>>               Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat 
>> finish from
>> otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got 
>> my eyes
>> set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on 
>> inner
>> spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm 
>> assuming
>> that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal 
>> finish
>> experts out there? Thanks,
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Sun Aug  9 16:38:41 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 18:38:41 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Testing the AM radio
Message-ID: <c49.40089d1c.37b0a9f1@aol.com>

Ritch,

    Dad is indeed repairing them. We also have a few on  hand to exchange.
I would have to check to see if he has any vertical ones.  Without an
antenna is should still make static. Let me know if you are  interested.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 8/9/2009 2:03:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tom at datsun2000.com writes:

Ritch,

I assume you connected either an automotive antenna, or a  wire into the
antenna connector.  AM radio's don't work will without  an antenna.

If that does not fix your sound problem you may have a  radio with a circuit
problem.  Keith Williams' father has begun to  repair these radios for us.
If you can't get it going send Keith a  note.

I have a factory radio for a 67 1300 pickup that I will be  testing in much
the same manner as you described.  If it works I will  see if there is
anyone
interested in it.  It is likely very similar to  the roadster radio with a
horizontal escutcheon (dial face) rather than  vertical as in used in the
high windsield roadsters.

Tom
69 2000  - Mr.  Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org

On  8/8/2009 9:42:02 PM, Ritchie Labate (rlabate at sbcglobal.net) wrote:
> I  just want to make sure
> I've connected everything correctly with a  newly acquired, original
Toshiba AM radio for my '68
>  2000.
>
> Connected the blue wire from harness to blue wire from  radio (has inline
> 2a fuse).
> Attached a black wire to the back  of radio by screw as a ground.
> Connected the 2 white speaker wires to  one external speaker to test.
>
> A backlight came on when I  powered on but no sound as I adjusted the
dial.
>
> Any other  suggestions? Are these Toshibas repairable if I took them to a
>  shop?
>
> Thank you for any feedback,
>
>  Ritch
> ________________________________________
> Support  Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are  subscribed as tom at datsun2000.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing  list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

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From 9laser3 at bright.net  Sun Aug  9 17:46:19 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 19:46:19 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] OT - race weekend
Message-ID: <000001ca194b$9aaa15c0$cffe4140$@net>

  Sorry, no Nissans or Datsun on the track, but yesterday was the American
Lemans and today was the IRL and World Cup races at MidOhio.  The Lemans is
the fastest I've ever seen anything lap MidOhio and early on there was some
great racing but it dragged out a bit too long.  IRL is fast also, but I'm
not sure they can pass at all, . and it was a long race on a very hot day.

  But the World Cup race was great!  Acura, BMW, and Mazdas, all pretty
equal on the track.  Lots of lead changes.  Eventually one Mazda pulled
away, but second place was contested by the next 4 cars the entire race!
Made us forget about the heat (well the race and a big ice tea!).     

  Biggest crowd I have ever seen in over 40 years at MidOhio, and the
traffic getting out proved it.  Thankfully we made up our own short cut back
to my place.  Thanks to my son for getting some free tickets at work (Honda)
and for letting me drive his Civic SI today.  Think Nissan will ever build a
nice little car again?  (And don't talk to me about the new SER!)

 

Paul

Ohio

From scottmcg at gmail.com  Sun Aug  9 18:35:26 2009
From: scottmcg at gmail.com (Scott McGillivray)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 17:35:26 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
Message-ID: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 1969 1600 with 4-speed that can use a transmission fluid change.
I've never done a trans fluid change.  I restored the car 2 years ago and
trans was the only fluid I didn't replace, so the existing is at least 15
years old.  I logged about 1000 miles in last week's scorching hot weather,
this week something under my feet occasionally rumbles on deceleration.

I'm going to check the driveshaft bolts and change the rear-diff oil, but
when it comes to the gearbox I have no clue what I'm doing... although I'm a
fast learner and I have Scott Sheeler's "Datsun Roadster Book".

- I don't see a trans dipstick, how do I check the gearbox oil level?  How
much oil should be in there?  *4speed*
- Is the filler bolt the one underneath on the driver's/left side?

Other tips are greatly appreciated... step by step instructions are
better... instructions with pictures and I'll send you a Christmas card
every year.

-Scott

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Sun Aug  9 19:01:44 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 18:01:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
References: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E8A966C1E6E44E619B93CB62D054C560@HPW>

Kleen-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover.

or

POR-15 Paint Stripper.

Eastwood's product is good, or so I've heard, but the exorbitant price for 
it... well there's cheaper stuff out there that is just as, if not more 
effective, and for the money....

E 

From fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  9 21:23:37 2009
From: fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com (Patti Dwinell)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 20:23:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
In-Reply-To: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <574419.25681.qm@web53509.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi, Scott!
I just changed mine yesterday, and I'd never done it before either! 
To my knowledge, only the 1500 roadster trannys (like mine) had dip sticks.
The "newer" models, I believe, are filled to the bottom of the fill hole on
the side of your transmission;  just like on the differencial. 
I'm sure someone will respond to you with better details, but it is pretty
easy...remove bottom drain plug...while oil is draining, clean metal shavings
from magnet on
plug....reinstall plug...remove fill plug...fill with 80/90 wt
gear oil.  My 1500 specs say 4.6 pts.  I used 4 1/2 pts, and it was too full. 
I had to siphon out 1/2 pt.  My suggestions:  stop short and don't overfill. 
Take it for a 15 minute drive to get it hot and then check your level.  It is
a lot easier to add a little oil rather than to remove a little of the stinky
stuff.
You'll do fine, I'm sure.
Patti

From michaelspreadbury at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 21:42:27 2009
From: michaelspreadbury at comcast.net (Michael Spreadbury)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 20:42:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] NOS early Quarter Panel Wanted
In-Reply-To: <574419.25681.qm@web53509.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<574419.25681.qm@web53509.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8A524B441C32415FB5D21519F9DF6AFB@Office1>

I am looking for a NOS (New) right side (passenger side) quarter panel for
my 1964 Datsun 1500 project. 1964-66 (small flare)

If you have such a beast, please e-mail me! The rest of my project is going
to the acid dipper next week, and I want a new panel to go back on it when
it comes back! 

Thanks in advance,

Michael Spreadbury
Spriso motorsports
www.spriso.com

From aultgc at att.net  Sun Aug  9 22:16:53 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 23:16:53 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
References: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6F50880EE1CF4885BE5FAB3333C35BFB@gaxp1>

Scott,

As Patti noted, you check level with your finger in the fill hole on the 
driver's side of the trans. Oil should be up to the bottom of the hole.

I recently had the trans in my 2000 rebuilt, and the shop recommended 75W110 
AMSOil synthetic gear oil.  Any severe duty gear oil of that viscosity 
should be fine.  (I have run 85W90 regular gear oil in my 1600/U20 for 
years, but will probably change to synthetic when I re-install the engine 
and trans.

Nissan manual says the 4-speed takes 2.2 liters of oil.  Drain it through 
the bottom plug, and refill with a suction gun until oil just starts to run 
out of the fill hole, then put the plug in it.  It's a messy operation.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott McGillivray" <scottmcg at gmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 7:35 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid


>I have a 1969 1600 with 4-speed that can use a transmission fluid change.
> I've never done a trans fluid change.  I restored the car 2 years ago and
> trans was the only fluid I didn't replace, so the existing is at least 15
> years old.  I logged about 1000 miles in last week's scorching hot 
> weather,
> this week something under my feet occasionally rumbles on deceleration.
>
> I'm going to check the driveshaft bolts and change the rear-diff oil, but
> when it comes to the gearbox I have no clue what I'm doing... although I'm 
> a
> fast learner and I have Scott Sheeler's "Datsun Roadster Book".
>
> - I don't see a trans dipstick, how do I check the gearbox oil level?  How
> much oil should be in there?  *4speed*
> - Is the filler bolt the one underneath on the driver's/left side?
>
> Other tips are greatly appreciated... step by step instructions are
> better... instructions with pictures and I'll send you a Christmas card
> every year.
>
> -Scott
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Sun Aug  9 22:41:12 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 00:41:12 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
In-Reply-To: <6F50880EE1CF4885BE5FAB3333C35BFB@gaxp1>
References: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<6F50880EE1CF4885BE5FAB3333C35BFB@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <001701ca1974$cc006880$64013980$@net>

  Everything Patti & Gary said, but... before you drain out the old, make
sure you can open the fill plug!  Much easier than flipping the car over to
refill through the drain plug!
  All and all, not a hard job to do.

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy Ault

Scott,

As Patti noted, you check level with your finger in the fill hole on the 
driver's side of the trans. Oil should be up to the bottom of the hole.

I recently had the trans in my 2000 rebuilt, and the shop recommended 75W110

AMSOil synthetic gear oil.  Any severe duty gear oil of that viscosity 
should be fine.  (I have run 85W90 regular gear oil in my 1600/U20 for 
years, but will probably change to synthetic when I re-install the engine 
and trans.

Nissan manual says the 4-speed takes 2.2 liters of oil.  Drain it through 
the bottom plug, and refill with a suction gun until oil just starts to run 
out of the fill hole, then put the plug in it.  It's a messy operation.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott McGillivray" <scottmcg at gmail.com>

>I have a 1969 1600 with 4-speed that can use a transmission fluid change.
> I've never done a trans fluid change.  I restored the car 2 years ago and
> trans was the only fluid I didn't replace, so the existing is at least 15
> years old.  I logged about 1000 miles in last week's scorching hot 
> weather,
> this week something under my feet occasionally rumbles on deceleration.
>
> I'm going to check the driveshaft bolts and change the rear-diff oil, but
> when it comes to the gearbox I have no clue what I'm doing... although I'm

> a
> fast learner and I have Scott Sheeler's "Datsun Roadster Book".
>
> - I don't see a trans dipstick, how do I check the gearbox oil level?  How
> much oil should be in there?  *4speed*
> - Is the filler bolt the one underneath on the driver's/left side?
>
> Other tips are greatly appreciated... step by step instructions are
> better... instructions with pictures and I'll send you a Christmas card
> every year.
>
> -Scott

From scottmcg at gmail.com  Sun Aug  9 23:52:40 2009
From: scottmcg at gmail.com (Scott McGillivray)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:52:40 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
In-Reply-To: <001701ca1974$cc006880$64013980$@net>
References: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<6F50880EE1CF4885BE5FAB3333C35BFB@gaxp1>
	<001701ca1974$cc006880$64013980$@net>
Message-ID: <861b75c30908092252y54ad0c5cr3b4050d4b9de91de@mail.gmail.com>

Awesome, thanks for the help Paul x 2, Patti, and Gary.  Good to hear it's a
straight forward task.  My dad couldn't find left-handed tools so I received
zero handyman training as a kid... I never knew half these tools had been
invented.

I will pick up a suction gun tomorrow and thanks Paul for the reminder to
loosen the fill plug first.  Old oil is better than no oil :)

-Scott
Maple Ridge, British Columbia



> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott McGillivray" <scottmcg at gmail.com>
>
> >I have a 1969 1600 with 4-speed that can use a transmission fluid change.
> > I've never done a trans fluid change.  I restored the car 2 years ago and
> > trans was the only fluid I didn't replace, so the existing is at least 15
> > years old.  I logged about 1000 miles in last week's scorching hot
> > weather,
> > this week something under my feet occasionally rumbles on deceleration.
> >
> > I'm going to check the driveshaft bolts and change the rear-diff oil, but
> > when it comes to the gearbox I have no clue what I'm doing... although
> I'm
>
> > a
> > fast learner and I have Scott Sheeler's "Datsun Roadster Book".
> >
> > - I don't see a trans dipstick, how do I check the gearbox oil level?
>  How
> > much oil should be in there?  *4speed*
> > - Is the filler bolt the one underneath on the driver's/left side?
> >
> > Other tips are greatly appreciated... step by step instructions are
> > better... instructions with pictures and I'll send you a Christmas card
> > every year.
> >
> > -Scott

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Mon Aug 10 04:51:54 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Andy Cost)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 05:51:54 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
In-Reply-To: <874666.91067.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FC62DB4634DE446DA1713D85C0DA410F@pentd>

Methylene Chloride.

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom PRATHER
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 10:48 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?

Hi Listers,
               Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat finish
from
otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got my eyes
set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on inner
spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm
assuming
that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal finish
experts out there? Thanks,
You are subscribed as andycost at embarqmail.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Mon Aug 10 04:56:27 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Andy Cost)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 05:56:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
In-Reply-To: <861b75c30908092252y54ad0c5cr3b4050d4b9de91de@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E28FA18B83E34812A3D91BADB51937EE@pentd>

Use only GL-4 gear oil.  The newer GL-5 oils will eat your syncros.

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 10 06:44:42 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 07:44:42 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Testing the AM radio
In-Reply-To: <263155.24713.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <263155.24713.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W2937A4B59A4808E8B9B3B29B060@phx.gbl>

Ritch,



I had my Toshiba radio rebuilt by Keith's dad, and it works great now.  I also
purchased a Redi-rad adapter through the following website:
http://www.rediscoveradio.com/, on the recommendation of Patti.  The adapter
plugs into your antenna cable in the radio and allows you to plug in an ipod
or similar device.  The single speaker under the dash doesn't exactly POUND
out the tunes, but it does OK.  I highly recommend both Keith's dad and the
the Redi-Rad.



Dan.

> Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:42:02 -0700
> From: rlabate at sbcglobal.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Testing the AM radio
>
> I just want to make sure I've connected everything correctly with a newly
acquired, original Toshiba AM radio for my '68 2000.
>
> Connected the blue wire from harness to blue wire from radio (has inline 2a
fuse).
> Attached a black wire to the back of radio by screw as a ground.
> Connected the 2 white speaker wires to one external speaker to test.
>
> A backlight came on when I powered on but no sound as I adjusted the dial.
> Any other suggestions? Are these Toshibas repairable if I took them to a
shop?
>
> Thank you for any feedback,
>
> Ritch

_________________________________________________________________
Get free photo software from Windows Live
http://www.windowslive.com/online/photos?ocid=PID23393::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US
:SI_PH_software:082009

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Mon Aug 10 08:04:50 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 10:04:50 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
Message-ID: <d04.5d6fd4a9.37b18302@aol.com>

Always remove the filler plug before removing the drain plug. Drain plugs
are easy to get out but sometimes filler plugs are impossible. This can lead
to  some colorful language.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 8/10/2009 6:10:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
scottmcg at gmail.com writes:

I have a  1969 1600 with 4-speed that can use a transmission fluid change.
I've never  done a trans fluid change.  I restored the car 2 years ago and
trans  was the only fluid I didn't replace, so the existing is at least 15
years  old.  I logged about 1000 miles in last week's scorching hot
weather,
this week something under my feet occasionally rumbles on  deceleration.

I'm going to check the driveshaft bolts and change the  rear-diff oil, but
when it comes to the gearbox I have no clue what I'm  doing... although I'm
a
fast learner and I have Scott Sheeler's "Datsun  Roadster Book".

- I don't see a trans dipstick, how do I check the  gearbox oil level?  How
much oil should be in there?   *4speed*
- Is the filler bolt the one underneath on the driver's/left  side?

Other tips are greatly appreciated... step by step instructions  are
better... instructions with pictures and I'll send you a Christmas  card
every  year.

-Scott
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http
://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From barterdude at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 08:26:36 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:26:36 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] test
Message-ID: <A9C59AAD4F6F48139DDAEAE9D4C20A1E@XPLaptop>

Tried sending twice and nothing showed.

 

Cheers -- Gary Lasater

 

This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you.

 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

 

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 10 08:36:05 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:36:05 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  test
In-Reply-To: <A9C59AAD4F6F48139DDAEAE9D4C20A1E@XPLaptop>
References: <A9C59AAD4F6F48139DDAEAE9D4C20A1E@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W12C5C9A140C5764BDC8FE99B060@phx.gbl>

I got it!



> From: barterdude at comcast.net
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:26:36 -0600
> Subject: [Roadsters] test
>
> Tried sending twice and nothing showed.
>
>
>
> Cheers -- Gary Lasater

_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From barterdude at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 08:55:16 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:55:16 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] WyCROC's 10th anniversary
Message-ID: <9C5A02D8E68F4E01950857B9DE097E54@XPLaptop>

All we can say is WOW.  This is the first time in the WyCROC history, that
we had a total of 24 Roadster's show up for an event.  The event started
early Saturday morning with Eric Frisbee, Dan Neff and Gary Lasater
(original founder's) meeting at Gary's house.  AJ Lasater, now 18 and
driving his own 1600 join the group and we headed off to the original
meeting place, the Castle Rock McDonald's.  We had a total of 8 roadster's
meeting at the first stop on the road to Greeley.  Our first early Z from
the ZRoad group (a mixture of early Z's from 1970 to '78 and roadsters)
joined us at the starting point too.

 

Next, we all cruised up I-25 to meet the central roadster owners at
Brooklyn's near the Pepsi Center in downtown.  To our surprise, we meet
another 9 roadster owners to bring our ranks to 17.  That took the breath
away, since our previous record was 13 roadsters at one event.

Unfortunately, we had a couple that had previous commitments and were unable
to make the trip to Greeley.  Additionally we had invited our newer (at
least to us) brethren, the early Z's, and we had several more Z car's join
us at Brooklyn's. 

 

Our next stop was the McDonald's in Brighton where we picked a couple more
roadsters and Z cars.  Unfortunately we had a causality with one of the
1600's apparently overheated on the way and cracked his block and had a
rather large quantity of water flowing out of the exhaust pipe and on the
ground.  But, he took it in stride using this as excuse to upgrade and talk
about options leaning towards a KA conversion.

 

We finally arrived at Erlich's Nissan in Greeley shortly after noon to meet
up with the northern contingent and after everyone arrived found parking
spots we ended up with 20 Roadsters, 8 early Z's and 3 late model Z's for a
showing of 31.  Erlich graciously sponsored a BBQ and gave out awards for
early and late roadsters, Z cars, People's Choice and Dealer's Choice.

 

Finally, we would like to thank our original Founder's for coming out 10
years ago and starting up a rag-tag bunch of roadster enthusiasts. (From
left to right)  Eric Frisbee, Dan Neff, Gary Lasater, Gary Boone, and Greg
Nelson were able to make the show.  Eric drove 1000 miles towing his '70
Blue 2000 (the original 1600 didn't make the trip but he still has it).  Dan
unfortunately is without a roadster right now but we're working on getting
him back with one, but for the event, he drove Gary Lasater's yellow and
black '69 2000.  Gary Lasater brought his 1500 from the original meet along
with his son driving his '70 1600.  Gary Boone brought his newly working EFI
blue 2000 ready for the race track again.  Greg Nelson's roadster is being
put back together after some much needed repairs are being done.
Unfortunately, Mike Koken and his car was unable to make the event. 

 

 

Cheers -- Gary Lasater

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 10:11:23 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 16:11:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
In-Reply-To: <1127335537.2486271249920603187.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <90933567.2487021249920683304.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Excellent advice. Napa's in-house gear oil is GL-4. Freshly rebuilt trans can use Redline. 

Nobody mentioned it's tight where the fill plug is. Doable, but just wanted to give ya a heads up. 

Have fun. <g> 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Cost" <andycost at embarqmail.com> 
To: "Scott McGillivray" <scottmcg at gmail.com>, "Paul" <9laser3 at bright.net> 
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 3:56:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid 

Use only GL-4 gear oil. The newer GL-5 oils will eat your syncros. 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

Datsun-roadsters mailing list 

http://www.team.net/archive 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From gsm at gregorysmorrison.com  Mon Aug 10 11:05:53 2009
From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com (Gregory S. Morrison)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 10:05:53 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] FW: FW: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of
 town)
In-Reply-To: <000b01ca170a$079ea630$6501a8c0@roadster1>
Message-ID: <C6A5A181.1B417%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>

------ Forwarded Message
From: Bob Haug <haugchiro at moscow.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:51:57 -0700
To: "Gregory S. Morrison" <gsm at gregorysmorrison.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] FW: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of
town)

Oh,  No original engine or trany either.  Has a newer 70s 1600 engine or
somethig like that in there.
Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory S. Morrison" <gsm at gregorysmorrison.com>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 1:43 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] FW: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)


> These are near Spokane WA. I don't know anything else about them. Hope
> this
> helps someone on the List.
> -Greg
> SRL31100494
>
>
> ------ Forwarded Message
> From: "Smith, Aaron T" <smitha at plant.gonzaga.edu>
> Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 13:17:18 -0700
> To: "Gregory S. Morrison" <gsm at gregorysmorrison.com>
> Conversation: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)
> Subject: RE: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)
>
> Here are a couple of pictures.  The car is definitely a project.  Aaron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gregory S. Morrison [mailto:gsm at gregorysmorrison.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:32 AM
> To: sale-dtmhp-1308213018 at craigslist.org
> Subject: 1967 datsun 2000 roadster - $5000 (north of town)
>
> ** CRAIGSLIST ADVISORY --- AVOID SCAMS BY DEALING LOCALLY
> ** Avoid:  wiring money, cross-border deals, work-at-home
> ** Beware: cashier checks, money orders, escrow, shipping
> ** More Info:  http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams.html
>
>
>
> http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1308213018.html
>
>
> Please email pictures. Don't need many, just enough to see what you've
> got
> for sale. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> this message was remailed to you via:
> sale-dtmhp-1308213018 at craigslist.org
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------ End of Forwarded Message
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
> had a name of DCP06627.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
> had a name of DCP06628.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
> had a name of DCP06629.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
> had a name of DCP06631.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
> had a name of DCP06634.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
> had a name of DCP06632.JPG]
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as haugchiro at moscow.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters



------ End of Forwarded Message

From fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 10 11:43:26 2009
From: fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com (Patti Dwinell)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 10:43:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid...UH OH
In-Reply-To: <E28FA18B83E34812A3D91BADB51937EE@pentd>
Message-ID: <393971.87208.qm@web53511.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Only GL-4 !!!???  The newer GL-5 oils will eat my syncros!!???
I  just checked the fine print on my bottle of Valvoline 80/90wt gear oil...
that I just used!!... and it's GL-5.  My specs say "GX", but my research
revealed that it's an obsolete code.  The older gentleman at "Orange Engine"
concured it's obsolete,  and recommended this Valvoline, stating it was the
equivalent. 
Is there a difference in what to use between the 1500 and 1600s?
I've used GL-5 in my differencial and steering box, too.
Now what?  Do I need to remove all the GL-5 from my car?
Do I have to flush? and if so, with what?
Yikes!  I guess I should have known that this wouldn't be straight forward.
Patti

--- On Mon, 8/10/09, Andy Cost <andycost at embarqmail.com> wrote:

From: Andy Cost <andycost at embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
To: "'Scott McGillivray'" <scottmcg at gmail.com>, "'Paul'" <9laser3 at bright.net>
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, August 10, 2009, 3:56 AM

Use only GL-4 gear oil.  The newer GL-5 oils will eat your syncros.
________________________________________

From andycost at embarqmail.com  Mon Aug 10 12:01:09 2009
From: andycost at embarqmail.com (Embarq Customer)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 14:01:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid...UH OH
In-Reply-To: <1854241583.410361249927179198.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <1948180264.411311249927269498.JavaMail.root@md20.embarq.synacor.com>

>From an internet post.B  B 



"We asked Valvoline if it was ok to use their DuraBlend Gear Oil (a GL5 oil)
in a Nissan 240sx manual transmission that requires GL4 spec oil.

They replied with this: "



"Absolutely, all Valvoline Gear Oils can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The
concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil, as you can not use an
active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate
that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products
to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers."



You might want to write to Valvoline.

Andy






----- Original Message -----
From: "Patti Dwinell" <fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com>
To: "Andy Cost" <andycost at embarqmail.com>
Cc: "All list" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 12:43:26 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid...UH OH

Only GL-4 !!!???B  The newer GL-5 oils will eat my syncros!!???
IB  just checked the fine print on my bottle of Valvoline 80/90wt gear oil...
that I just used!!... and it's GL-5.B  My specs say "GX", but my research
revealed that it's an obsolete code.B  The older gentleman at "Orange Engine"
concured it's obsolete,B  and recommended this Valvoline, stating it was the
equivalent.B 
Is there a difference in what to use between the 1500 and 1600s?
I've used GL-5 in my differencial and steering box, too.
Now what?B  Do I need to remove all the GL-5 from my car?
Do I have to flush? and if so, with what?
Yikes!B  I guess I should have known that this wouldn't be straight forward.
Patti

--- On Mon, 8/10/09, Andy Cost <andycost at embarqmail.com> wrote:



From: Andy Cost <andycost at embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
To: "'Scott McGillivray'" <scottmcg at gmail.com>, "'Paul'" <9laser3 at bright.net>
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, August 10, 2009, 3:56 AM


Use only GL-4 gear oil.B  The newer GL-5 oils will eat your syncros.
________________________________________

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 10 12:10:23 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 13:10:23 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
References: <E28FA18B83E34812A3D91BADB51937EE@pentd>
Message-ID: <000301ca19e5$fba32a20$6400a8c0@LAP120>

I thought the GL-4 was recommended for safe use in transmissions using brass
or "yellow metal" synchros, such as the Borg-Warner 4-speed, and that the
GL-5 was safe for the steel synchro'd 4 & 5-speeds. ????
Mike


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Cost" <andycost at embarqmail.com>
To: "'Scott McGillivray'" <scottmcg at gmail.com>; "'Paul'"
<9laser3 at bright.net>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid


> Use only GL-4 gear oil.  The newer GL-5 oils will eat your syncros.
> ________________________________________

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 12:37:56 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 18:37:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid...UH OH
In-Reply-To: <393971.87208.qm@web53511.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1221068648.2571301249929476565.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

GL-5 is -NOT- equivalent to GL-4. Just Google for all the lovely GL-4 vs GL-5 discussions. Unfortunately, many uninformed parts folks will say you can use GL-5 in place of GL-4. From my reading, they're big time W-R-O-N-G. 

GL-5 is specified and okay for the rear end/differential, but you want GL-4 for the tranny. 

I'm no expert, but I would drain the GL-5 from the tranny, refill with GL-4, put a hundred miles or so on it, drain/fill with GL-4 again, and sleep soundly. 

Experts? Bueller? 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patti Dwinell" <fairlady1964spl310 at yahoo.com> 
To: "Andy Cost" <andycost at embarqmail.com> 
Cc: "All list" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 10:43:26 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid...UH OH 

Only GL-4 !!!??? The newer GL-5 oils will eat my syncros!!??? 

I just checked the fine print on my bottle of Valvoline 80/90wt gear oil... that I just used!!... and it's GL-5. My specs say "GX", but my research revealed that it's an obsolete code. The older gentleman at "Orange Engine" concured it's obsolete, and recommended this Valvoline, stating it was the equivalent. 

Is there a difference in what to use between the 1500 and 1600s? 

I've used GL-5 in my differencial and steering box, too. Now what? Do I need to remove all the GL-5 from my car? Do I have to flush? and if so, with what? 

Yikes! I guess I should have known that this wouldn't be straight forward. 

Patti 

--- On Mon, 8/10/09, Andy Cost <andycost at embarqmail.com> wrote: 

From: Andy Cost <andycost at embarqmail.com> 
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid 
To: "'Scott McGillivray'" <scottmcg at gmail.com>, "'Paul'" <9laser3 at bright.net> 
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Date: Monday, August 10, 2009, 3:56 AM 

Use only GL-4 gear oil. The newer GL-5 oils will eat your syncros. 
________________________________________ 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

Datsun-roadsters mailing list 

http://www.team.net/archive 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 12:46:54 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 18:46:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] FS: 1969 SRL311-10351 (no engine/trans) near Olympia, WA
Message-ID: <1256835076.2576471249930014880.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Posted on list per seller's request. Don't know seller or the car: 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/1315850938.html 

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 14:05:10 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 13:05:10 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid
In-Reply-To: <001701ca1974$cc006880$64013980$@net>
References: <861b75c30908091735n58837f8k34cb7717126d02fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<6F50880EE1CF4885BE5FAB3333C35BFB@gaxp1>
	<001701ca1974$cc006880$64013980$@net>
Message-ID: <005101ca19f5$ddca3920$995eab60$@net>

Very good advice! Almost got stranded that way once myself.

When putting the plug back in, either use some anti-seize or wrap some
Teflon tape around the plug. Steel plug plus aluminum casing = frozen plug.
Same thing that happens with R16 thermostat housing studs. 

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 9:41 PM
To: 'Gary and Cindy Ault'; 'Scott McGillivray';
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Changing transmission fluid

  Everything Patti & Gary said, but... before you drain out the old, make
sure you can open the fill plug!  Much easier than flipping the car over to
refill through the drain plug!
  All and all, not a hard job to do.

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy Ault

Scott,

As Patti noted, you check level with your finger in the fill hole on the 
driver's side of the trans. Oil should be up to the bottom of the hole.

I recently had the trans in my 2000 rebuilt, and the shop recommended 75W110

AMSOil synthetic gear oil.  Any severe duty gear oil of that viscosity 
should be fine.  (I have run 85W90 regular gear oil in my 1600/U20 for 
years, but will probably change to synthetic when I re-install the engine 
and trans.

Nissan manual says the 4-speed takes 2.2 liters of oil.  Drain it through 
the bottom plug, and refill with a suction gun until oil just starts to run 
out of the fill hole, then put the plug in it.  It's a messy operation.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott McGillivray" <scottmcg at gmail.com>

>I have a 1969 1600 with 4-speed that can use a transmission fluid change.
> I've never done a trans fluid change.  I restored the car 2 years ago and
> trans was the only fluid I didn't replace, so the existing is at least 15
> years old.  I logged about 1000 miles in last week's scorching hot 
> weather,
> this week something under my feet occasionally rumbles on deceleration.
>
> I'm going to check the driveshaft bolts and change the rear-diff oil, but
> when it comes to the gearbox I have no clue what I'm doing... although I'm

> a
> fast learner and I have Scott Sheeler's "Datsun Roadster Book".
>
> - I don't see a trans dipstick, how do I check the gearbox oil level?  How
> much oil should be in there?  *4speed*
> - Is the filler bolt the one underneath on the driver's/left side?
>
> Other tips are greatly appreciated... step by step instructions are
> better... instructions with pictures and I'll send you a Christmas card
> every year.
>
> -Scott
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From cookefam314 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 10 15:33:49 2009
From: cookefam314 at gmail.com (Dave Cooke)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 16:33:49 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Car Cover fitment
Message-ID: <83a7d2520908101433ycb9fb6ctd42a73fc4fcb5702@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone have one of these car covers for your roadster? They sell them on
e-bay & claim many roadster owners have purchased their covers. They show
the bumper to bumper length of 14.17 FEET for both their y2 & t2 covers. I
measure my roadster at closer to 12 1/2 feet. I'm looking for a nice fitting
cover, the old one I have right now falls off as its too big.
www.AutoArmourCovers.com <http://www.autoarmourcovers.com/>

   - Datsun Fairlady 1600 2000 Roadster Car Cover
y2<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170352561671&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_5466wt_992>
   - CAR COVER - Datsun Fairlady 1600 2000 Roadster
t2<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170352561671&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_5466wt_992>

-- 
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

From aultgc at att.net  Mon Aug 10 18:46:50 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:46:50 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
References: <FC62DB4634DE446DA1713D85C0DA410F@pentd>
Message-ID: <C2E566C8EA334798A0AE54D932A649CE@gaxp1>

Be careful with that stuff -- it's a carcinogen.  I'd stick with oneof 
theother products manufactured for removing powder coat.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Cost" <andycost at embarqmail.com>
To: "'Tom PRATHER'" <tomet9 at sbcglobal.net>; 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?


> Methylene Chloride.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom PRATHER
> Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 10:48 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
>
> Hi Listers,
>               Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat finish
> from
> otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got my 
> eyes
> set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on inner
> spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm
> assuming
> that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal finish
> experts out there? Thanks,
> You are subscribed as andycost at embarqmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Mon Aug 10 19:15:16 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:15:16 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
In-Reply-To: <C2E566C8EA334798A0AE54D932A649CE@gaxp1>
References: <FC62DB4634DE446DA1713D85C0DA410F@pentd>
	<C2E566C8EA334798A0AE54D932A649CE@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <4A80C624.9030902@mail.utexas.edu>

I checked with the local powder coater today and he uses aircraft 
remover. It takes 3-4 passes with the stuff. When he can, he uses sand 
blasting. For fine work he uses what he called "sugar sand".

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Gary and Cindy Ault, On 8/10/2009 7:46 PM:
> Be careful with that stuff -- it's a carcinogen.  I'd stick with oneof 
> theother products manufactured for removing powder coat.
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andy Cost" <andycost at embarqmail.com>
> To: "'Tom PRATHER'" <tomet9 at sbcglobal.net>; 
> <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 5:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
>
>
>> Methylene Chloride.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom 
>> PRATHER
>> Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 10:48 AM
>> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Roadsters] Removing powder coat?
>>
>> Hi Listers,
>>               Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat finish
>> from
>> otherwise smooth aluminum surfaces on after market wheels? I've got 
>> my eyes
>> set on these machined deep lip wheels that have a gunmetal finish on 
>> inner
>> spokes. My goal here is to have a shiny machined finish thru out. I'm
>> assuming
>> that paint remover is out as powder coating is a process. Any metal 
>> finish
>> experts out there? Thanks,
>> You are subscribed as andycost at embarqmail.com
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
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>
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>
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From solex675 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 10 20:03:27 2009
From: solex675 at hotmail.com (Andrew Murphy)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:03:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 1966 1600 For Sale in NC
Message-ID: <BAY123-W19846F3225B2D1758C7A7996070@phx.gbl>

All,



I don't often forward cars for sale advertisements, but in this case I am
biased because I am a big fan of the 66 1600 (I own one)



Sometimes there are cars for sale where the owner is shall we say
-enthusiastic - about the asking price and this one seems fair if the car is
as nice as the pics show and has no hidden problems.



It is in North Carolina and I know the East Coasters have a harder time
finding good cars than those of us out West. So I hope someone has a look at
this car and maybe it will go to a good home.



http://www.autotraderclassics.com/find/vehicle/vehicleDetail.xhtml?adId=15663
0&conversationId=53725



Take Care,



Andrew Murphy

1966 1600

SoCAL

_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Mon Aug 10 21:24:46 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:24:46 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] 1966 1600 For Sale in NC
References: <BAY123-W19846F3225B2D1758C7A7996070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DB896AC2CF44D95843B9FE78A42C738@Daryl>

Looks very nice for the most part. Some 'creative' wiring near the 
alternator, and piping/hoses at the drivers fenderwell........

Daryl
(With some 'creative' wiring under the hood......)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Murphy" <solex675 at hotmail.com>

> All,
> I don't often forward cars for sale advertisements, but in this case I am
> biased because I am a big fan of the 66 1600 (I own one)

> Sometimes there are cars for sale where the owner is shall we say
> -enthusiastic - about the asking price and this one seems fair if the car 
> is
> as nice as the pics show and has no hidden problems.
>
> It is in North Carolina and I know the East Coasters have a harder time
> finding good cars than those of us out West. So I hope someone has a look 
> at
> this car and maybe it will go to a good home.
>
> http://www.autotraderclassics.com/find/vehicle/vehicleDetail.xhtml?adId=15663
> 0&conversationId=53725
>
> Take Care,
> Andrew Murphy
> 1966 1600
> SoCAL

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Mon Aug 10 21:59:11 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:59:11 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Composite Leaf Springs - Group Buy
Message-ID: <51D0A82069D44AA1AB2B5481FFA7D4A3@Daryl>

Just to update those interested in the composite spring, I am going to order my set tomorrow, and when it gets here and installed we will have a reference for everyone else to order from as far as ride height and rating. Hopefully within 3 weeks. Damn I hate waiting.........

I have sent a couple more questions in and will post the answers when I recieve them, as well as a clarification on the 'feel' vs rating.

Cheers
Daryl
'66 1800cc EFI Stroker, 5 spd.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 10 22:06:36 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 23:06:36 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Testing the AM radio
References: <263155.24713.qm@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BAY139-W2937A4B59A4808E8B9B3B29B060@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AFA41B77456F42698590113773C125F8@ranteer.local>

i would totally recommend keith's dad!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Kroninger" <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
To: "Datsun Mailing List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:44 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] FW: Testing the AM radio


> Ritch,
>
>
>
> I had my Toshiba radio rebuilt by Keith's dad, and it works great now.  I 
> also
> purchased a Redi-rad adapter through the following website:
> http://www.rediscoveradio.com/, on the recommendation of Patti.  The 
> adapter
> plugs into your antenna cable in the radio and allows you to plug in an 
> ipod
> or similar device.  The single speaker under the dash doesn't exactly 
> POUND
> out the tunes, but it does OK.  I highly recommend both Keith's dad and 
> the
> the Redi-Rad.
>
>
>
> Dan.
>
>> Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:42:02 -0700
>> From: rlabate at sbcglobal.net
>> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Roadsters] Testing the AM radio
>>
>> I just want to make sure I've connected everything correctly with a newly
> acquired, original Toshiba AM radio for my '68 2000.
>>
>> Connected the blue wire from harness to blue wire from radio (has inline 
>> 2a
> fuse).
>> Attached a black wire to the back of radio by screw as a ground.
>> Connected the 2 white speaker wires to one external speaker to test.
>>
>> A backlight came on when I powered on but no sound as I adjusted the 
>> dial.
>> Any other suggestions? Are these Toshibas repairable if I took them to a
> shop?
>>
>> Thank you for any feedback,
>>
>> Ritch

From gsm at gregorysmorrison.com  Wed Aug 12 09:46:05 2009
From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com (Gregory S. Morrison)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:46:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
Message-ID: <C6A831CD.1B5B2%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>

Here's another one for sale on CraigsList/Spokane, WA. The reference number
is 1318033354. Unlike the parts cars and rolling hulks that have been
recently listed, this one looks really, really nice. Hope this is what
someone out there is looking for.

Greg
SRL31100494 
Spokane, WA

From d_kroninger at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 12 11:32:59 2009
From: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:32:59 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
In-Reply-To: <C6A831CD.1B5B2%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
References: <C6A831CD.1B5B2%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W1102C16D075D8AB27656039B040@phx.gbl>

This looks like a '69 based on the teardrops and chrome ring turn signal
lights.



http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1318033354.html

> Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:46:05 -0700
> From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
>
> Here's another one for sale on CraigsList/Spokane, WA. The reference number
> is 1318033354. Unlike the parts cars and rolling hulks that have been
> recently listed, this one looks really, really nice. Hope this is what
> someone out there is looking for.
>
> Greg
> SRL31100494
> Spokane, WA

_________________________________________________________________
Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail..
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391::
T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009

From gsm at gregorysmorrison.com  Wed Aug 12 12:17:54 2009
From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com (Gregory S. Morrison)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 11:17:54 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
In-Reply-To: <BAY139-W1102C16D075D8AB27656039B040@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C6A85562.1B5D0%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>

Correct. I spoke with the owner - curiosity got the best of me - and he
confirmed it was a '69 that was initially sold/titled in 1970. Also note the
"PRE-Z" personalized plate.


On 8/12/09 10:32 AM, "Dan Kroninger" <d_kroninger at hotmail.com> wrote:

> This looks like a '69 based on the teardrops and chrome ring turn signal
> lights.
> 
> 
> 
> http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1318033354.html
> 
>> Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:46:05 -0700
>> From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com
>> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Roadsters] Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
>> 
>> Here's another one for sale on CraigsList/Spokane, WA. The reference number
>> is 1318033354. Unlike the parts cars and rolling hulks that have been
>> recently listed, this one looks really, really nice. Hope this is what
>> someone out there is looking for.
>> 
>> Greg
>> SRL31100494
>> Spokane, WA
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail..
> http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391::
> T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as gsm at gregorysmorrison.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Aug 12 19:05:44 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 18:05:44 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump questions
Message-ID: <20090812210544.20361.3424735.root@mp13>

After adding the banjo bolt screens, a new fuel filter, and the proper size fuel lines, I had the 2000 out this evening. She ran strong, up to 90 mph before I ran out of straight road. No sign of the issue from a few weekends ago that stranded me. I didn't get the best fuel pump output when spinning the motor to test the pump, but the float bowls are now more full than when she stranded me last month. 

Does any one have pictures of a bad diaphragm and can any send me a picture of a good diaphragm? 

Can I assume the fuel pump valves go bad as well? 

If I end up needing any of these bits, who sells them? Are they available "after market" and how do you all know about/find out about any parts that are still available aftermarket?

TIA

Currently with two running Roadsters but one might have a weak fuel pump.

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

From graemes at internode.on.net  Wed Aug 12 19:39:25 2009
From: graemes at internode.on.net (Graeme)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 11:09:25 +0930
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel pump questions
In-Reply-To: <20090812210544.20361.3424735.root@mp13>
References: <20090812210544.20361.3424735.root@mp13>
Message-ID: <0FA0CB46C45249E89CC34F090F4F13CB@desktop>

I think you'll find that the rebuild kit for "L" series engines fuel pump is
suitable for the Roadster pumps.
You get a new diaphragm and two new one way valves.
The Roadster pump is almost identical to the L series barring perhaps the
actuating arm and placement of the fuel inlet/outlet. 

"If I end up needing any of these bits, who sells them? Are they available
"after market" and how do you all know about/find out about any parts that
are still available aftermarket?"

From graemes at internode.on.net  Wed Aug 12 20:32:48 2009
From: graemes at internode.on.net (Graeme)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 12:02:48 +0930
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  fuel pump questions
Message-ID: <15B5A36F6AEC45C69A2AB4D8F3710EAC@desktop>

I think you'll find that the rebuild kit for "L" series engines fuel pump is
suitable for the Roadster pumps.
You get a new diaphragm and two new one way valves.
The Roadster pump is almost identical to the L series barring perhaps the
actuating arm and placement of the fuel inlet/outlet. 
See ebay item #360179472278

"If I end up needing any of these bits, who sells them? Are they available
"after market" and how do you all know about/find out about any parts that
are still available aftermarket?"
You are subscribed as graemes at internode.on.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

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From aultgc at att.net  Thu Aug 13 00:08:55 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 01:08:55 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] FW:  Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
References: <C6A831CD.1B5B2%gsm@gregorysmorrison.com>
	<BAY139-W1102C16D075D8AB27656039B040@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F05B5FABCD7F40D9AEA5FE0F824554F8@gaxp1>

Dan,

Good eye.  It was probably sold in 1970 and registered as a '70. Very common 
in those days, but it's probably a '69 model all right.  TO tell for sure, 
you'd need to examine other aspects of the car to see if it is a hybrid 
'69-'70.  That happened, too, although more commonly with earlier models.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Kroninger" <d_kroninger at hotmail.com>
To: "Datsun Mailing List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] FW: Very nice 1970 2000 for sale


> This looks like a '69 based on the teardrops and chrome ring turn signal
> lights.
>
>
>
> http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1318033354.html
>
>> Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:46:05 -0700
>> From: gsm at gregorysmorrison.com
>> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Roadsters] Very nice 1970 2000 for sale
>>
>> Here's another one for sale on CraigsList/Spokane, WA. The reference 
>> number
>> is 1318033354. Unlike the parts cars and rolling hulks that have been
>> recently listed, this one looks really, really nice. Hope this is what
>> someone out there is looking for.
>>
>> Greg
>> SRL31100494
>> Spokane, WA
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail..
> http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391::
> T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From roadster at astound.net  Thu Aug 13 01:09:25 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 00:09:25 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] craigslist ad wants parts
Message-ID: <FADF7AEE-FD1C-4087-A716-B7268D09EF14@astound.net>

Hey check out this roadster on craigslist, belong to anyone on the  
list? Car isn't for sale, the guy needs parts.

69 1600 race car with a 300zx turbo and Ford rear end. I think it  
looks wicked. Maybe I'll give him some parts just to see the beast.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/1317825536.html

Fred - So.SF

From datsundawg at sc.rr.com  Thu Aug 13 05:40:07 2009
From: datsundawg at sc.rr.com (datsundawg at sc.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 7:40:07 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Question: Alternator Removal from Driver Side Engine
	Bottom
Message-ID: <20090813114008.DOBH2.194249.root@cdptpa-web23-z02>

I have to remove the alternator from my 66 and it is located on the bottom side of the engine on the driver's side.  I tried to get to the bolts and could not get to them without starting to think about taking things apart.  Seems like I remember some dialogue on this a while back so if anyone can give me the low down on how to accomplish it, what I have to remove, a link to a tech page, etc. I would appreciate it.  I am hoping I do not have to go as far as to remove the water pump, so any input is welcome so I can get back on the road.

Thanks
David
66 1600
67.5 1600 parts car (minus some parts and now the alternator)
70 1600 (still down to the frame and sitting as parts in my garage)

From cookefam314 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 13 06:10:52 2009
From: cookefam314 at gmail.com (Dave Cooke)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 07:10:52 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Question: Alternator Removal from Driver Side
 Engine Bottom
In-Reply-To: <20090813114008.DOBH2.194249.root@cdptpa-web23-z02>
References: <20090813114008.DOBH2.194249.root@cdptpa-web23-z02>
Message-ID: <83a7d2520908130510m3be6c4c9rf115578b966dc593@mail.gmail.com>

David,     I just did an alternator swap 2 weeks ago on my 68 1600. It was
fairly easy to do. I too thought it would be difficult to get to the lower
bolt without removing a bunch of stuff. Here's how I did it. I removed the
hood & front grill, then removed the radiator shroud. This is where I did a
little extra work...I then removed the entire radiator, it came out in 5
minutes, very easy. Then removed the fan blade. This gave me extremely easy
access to the lower alternator bolt. I had the thing out in a few minutes. I
later learned from a post on this e-mail forum that removing the radiator is
unnesessary, just remove the fan shroud & the fan blade to gain access to
the lower bolt. Oh well, removing the radiatior gave me a chance to further
understand the workings of my car & boosted my confidence in my mechanical
abilities. I'm by no means a mechanic, but I consider myself mechanical.
     Anyways, good luck, I  think this is an easy project for any roadster
owner to do themselves. Oh, and removing the water pump is not required at
all.

I snapped a few photos as I was doing the project, let me know if you want
them & I'll post them for you.

-Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters


On Thu, Aug 13, 2009 at 6:40 AM, <datsundawg at sc.rr.com> wrote:

> I have to remove the alternator from my 66 and it is located on the bottom
> side of the engine on the driver's side.  I tried to get to the bolts and
> could not get to them without starting to think about taking things apart.
>  Seems like I remember some dialogue on this a while back so if anyone can
> give me the low down on how to accomplish it, what I have to remove, a link
> to a tech page, etc. I would appreciate it.  I am hoping I do not have to go
> as far as to remove the water pump, so any input is welcome so I can get
> back on the road.
>
> Thanks
> David
> 66 1600
> 67.5 1600 parts car (minus some parts and now the alternator)
> 70 1600 (still down to the frame and sitting as parts in my garage)
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as cookefam314 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

From chalsted at comcast.net  Thu Aug 13 10:56:45 2009
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:56:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Watkins Glen- need contact info
In-Reply-To: <696176370.13129641250181635032.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <860874625.13138211250182605857.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Elaine and I are getting ready to send out a newsletter regarding the
Roadsters at the Glen next month... we have a list from DRONE that we've
combined with a list from the 2002 participants but it feels like there are a
bunch of names we don't have. if you're on the list and would like info on
coming to the Glen, please drop me an e-mail with your name and address ASAP
as we plan to get the letters out in the next couple days. saturday evening's
get together will be up at Hazlitt same as last year- we thought about having
them provide food but have no idea how many folks would be into that so hard
to get a price. hope to hear from you and see you there.B  any vendors who
would like to donate raffle items, please give me a call or send me an e-mail.
540-635-5752



Craig Halsted

From nmleeds at mindspring.com  Thu Aug 13 16:16:18 2009
From: nmleeds at mindspring.com (nmleeds at mindspring.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 15:16:18 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
Message-ID: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask which number people like.  I know there'll be someone on the list to explain their belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another number is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a good day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick to one bottle -- if possible.

Thoughts

'69 U20 SU, Headless.

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 13 16:52:53 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 15:52:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage
Message-ID: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hi everyone
i'm trying to fix some things on my roadster before heading to the track again.  to that end, i'm thinking of replacing my stock oil pressure guage.  i had some funny readings the last time on track and wish to see what the real deal is.  i've heard mechanical guages are better for track use.  does anyone know what size is the hole in the block into which the sending unit is threaded?
thank you in advance
steve 675MIZU

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 13 17:06:54 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:06:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
In-Reply-To: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1048461720.4041351250204814391.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

242 (Blue) if I want to take it apart 
271 (Red) if I don't 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: nmleeds at mindspring.com 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 3:16:18 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like? 

Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask which number people like. I know there'll be someone on the list to explain their belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another number is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a good day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick to one bottle -- if possible. 

Thoughts 

'69 U20 SU, Headless. 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

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From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Thu Aug 13 17:26:00 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:26:00 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage
In-Reply-To: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A84A108.8000208@socal.rr.com>

Steve,

I actually dealt with this very issue, and you should read the following 
which was also posted on the 311 site. 

Oil pressure 2-5/8"-connected directly to block /after using the correct 
adapter./ The block is threaded for British Thread, (28 teeth per inch). 
Most aftermarket gauges come with American Thread fittings (27 teeth per 
inch) You can buy the correct adapter from 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4860K141 McMaster-Carr for around $5.00. When I 
did mine I re-threaded the block for American standard threads. It is 
probably better result using the adapter.

Eddie


steven boortz wrote:
> hi everyone
> i'm trying to fix some things on my roadster before heading to the track again.  to that end, i'm thinking of replacing my stock oil pressure guage.  i had some funny readings the last time on track and wish to see what the real deal is.  i've heard mechanical guages are better for track use.  does anyone know what size is the hole in the block into which the sending unit is threaded?
> thank you in advance
> steve 675MIZU
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From RWM at RWMann.com  Thu Aug 13 17:27:36 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM (Out of the Office))
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 19:27:36 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
In-Reply-To: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4A84A168.4030106@RWMann.com>

I use the "blue" semi-permanent product on laptop computer screws and 
ice hockey skate blade retaining screws...

- Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex, various Thinkpads, CCM Pro Tacks...

 
nmleeds at mindspring.com wrote:
> Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask which number people like.  I know there'll be someone on the list to explain their belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another number is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a good day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick to one bottle -- if possible.
>
> Thoughts
>
> '69 U20 SU, Headless.

From joek at camberconstruction.com  Thu Aug 13 17:48:14 2009
From: joek at camberconstruction.com (Joe Kinstle)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:48:14 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
In-Reply-To: <1048461720.4041351250204814391.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net><1048461720.4041351250204814391.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1373712810-1250207276-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1398714014-@bxe1110.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

And green if you want to put it on after assembly

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Peters <ppeters914 at comcast.net>

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:06:54 
To: Datsun Roadster List<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?


242 (Blue) if I want to take it apart 
271 (Red) if I don't 

Pete 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: nmleeds at mindspring.com 
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 3:16:18 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like? 

Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask which number people like. I know there'll be someone on the list to explain their belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another number is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a good day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick to one bottle -- if possible. 

Thoughts 

'69 U20 SU, Headless. 
________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

You are subscribed as ppeters914 at comcast.net 

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 
________________________________________
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From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Thu Aug 13 19:26:02 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 20:26:02 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage
In-Reply-To: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80908131826q6f0516e0kd3183bfc980e9ef9@mail.gmail.com>

Steve,

I don't trust 40 year old gauges or sending units, plus the small
gauges in my '70 are hard to read at a glance anyway, so I added
AutoMeter 2 5/8 Phantom series mechanical water temp and oil pressure
gauges. I mounted them in a two gauge plate on the passenger side of
the dash support at the front on the console.

I like the gig gauges and the 270 sweep because it lets you just
glance down to see if the needles are in the correct area. You seldom
need to actually read them. That said, the car seldom gets above 190,
even on the hottest days here in central Texas (Lord knows we've had
more than our share of those this year), and the hot idle oil pressure
is a solid 10 to 12 psi. Try reading that on a stock style gauge! If I
decide to keep the car and redo it I've considered building a custom
flat dash modeled on the early car but using modern, accurate gauges.

IIRC, the oil pressure gauge came with several compression fitting and
one screwed right in. I was getting ready to drill and tap the
thermostat housing for the mechanical water temp sensor and asked the
manger at the local O'Reilly's if he had any adapters. He had a couple
sets from a company called Equus (iequus.com). A set with smaller
fitting like you need for oils and a larger set which included a piece
that let me just screw in the water temp probe into the original hole.
Either set is under $10, IIRC.

All that said, you might be starving your engine for oil. In high G
turns the oil might literally be pushed against the side of the pan
leaving the pick up sucking air. Not a desirable circumstance.
Regardless you need good, accurate gauges.

HTH,
Ron

From aultgc at att.net  Thu Aug 13 19:56:20 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 20:56:20 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
References: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3AB098574D4D4FDF949B11D42B37D391@gaxp1>

Steve,

I use the blue on suspension bolts.  Generally, I have found Loctite 
unnecessary for most parts with lock washers.

I know the directions say the red won't come apart without heat, but I have 
been able to get fasteners apart with mormal tools and no heat -- lawn and 
garden stuff like shears where you don't want the nuts too tight, but don't 
want them to come off, either.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nmleeds at mindspring.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?


> Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask which 
> number people like.  I know there'll be someone on the list to explain 
> their belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, 
> another number is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I 
> call it a good day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd 
> like to stick to one bottle -- if possible.
>
> Thoughts
>
> '69 U20 SU, Headless.
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Fri Aug 14 00:21:37 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:21:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage
In-Reply-To: <2faaebf80908131826q6f0516e0kd3183bfc980e9ef9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2faaebf80908131826q6f0516e0kd3183bfc980e9ef9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004801ca1ca7$7affc8a0$70ff59e0$@net>

Another trick that some racers use to make the gauges more quickly readable
is to rotate the gauge so that the needle is straight up at the "normal"
reading. That way you can tell at a glance if it is normal, low or high.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie Day
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 6:26 PM
To: Roadster List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage


I like the gig gauges and the 270 sweep because it lets you just
glance down to see if the needles are in the correct area. You seldom
need to actually read them. 

From 9laser3 at bright.net  Fri Aug 14 05:12:08 2009
From: 9laser3 at bright.net (Paul)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 07:12:08 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage
In-Reply-To: <004801ca1ca7$7affc8a0$70ff59e0$@net>
References: <336704.79597.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2faaebf80908131826q6f0516e0kd3183bfc980e9ef9@mail.gmail.com>
	<004801ca1ca7$7affc8a0$70ff59e0$@net>
Message-ID: <000301ca1cd0$11c8ad60$355a0820$@net>

  Rotated gauges, and a 2" round bright red warning light right above the
tach for a low oil pressure idiot light!  Saved an engine for me at drivers
school!

Paul
Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gordon Glasgow
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:22 AM
To: 'Ronnie Day'; 'Roadster List'
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage

Another trick that some racers use to make the gauges more quickly readable
is to rotate the gauge so that the needle is straight up at the "normal"
reading. That way you can tell at a glance if it is normal, low or high.

Gordon Glasgow

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie Day
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 6:26 PM
To: Roadster List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] oil pressure guage


I like the gig gauges and the 270 sweep because it lets you just
glance down to see if the needles are in the correct area. You seldom
need to actually read them. 
You are subscribed as 9laser3 at bright.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 08:00:44 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 09:00:44 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
References: <31431953.1250201778371.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <00b701ca1ce7$a05b46c0$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Here's an idea......how about info at the manufacturer's website, Google is
handy!

http://www.useloctite.com/filephotos/documents/Threadlocking_Solutions_Guide.pdf

Here's the another page for downloading other Loctite product guides:

http://www.useloctite.com/library/technical_literature4777.html?SubnavID=34

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nmleeds at mindspring.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?


> Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask which
number people like.  I know there'll be someone on the list to explain their
belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another number
is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a good
day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick to
one bottle -- if possible.
>
> Thoughts
>
> '69 U20 SU, Headless.
> ________________________________________

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 08:54:13 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 09:54:13 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  Loctite -- what do people like?
Message-ID: <004201ca1cef$16cc4e10$6400a8c0@LAP120>

I left out another useful guide from Loctite:

http://www.useloctite.com/filephotos/documents/LT4985TLCapabilityGd.pdf

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MH" <twobeaners at earthlink.net>
To: <nmleeds at mindspring.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?


> Here's an idea......how about info at the manufacturer's website, Google
is
> handy!
>
>
http://www.useloctite.com/filephotos/documents/Threadlocking_Solutions_Guide.pdf
>
> Here's the another page for downloading other Loctite product guides:
>
>
http://www.useloctite.com/library/technical_literature4777.html?SubnavID=34
>
> Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <nmleeds at mindspring.com>
> To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 5:16 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
>
>
> > Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask
which
> number people like.  I know there'll be someone on the list to explain
their
> belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another
number
> is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a good
> day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick to
> one bottle -- if possible.
> >
> > Thoughts
> >
> > '69 U20 SU, Headless.
> > ________________________________________

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 10:51:14 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:51:14 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  Loctite -- what do people like?
Message-ID: <000a01ca1cff$702cc1a0$6400a8c0@LAP120>

Uh.......here's the equivalent product guides from Permatex. I've used some
these as well as the Loctite, with equally good preformance.

http://www.permatex.com/resource_auto_prodselect.htm

........I'm bored........time for a ZOOMIE!

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MH" <twobeaners at earthlink.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 9:54 AM
Subject: Fw: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?


> I left out another useful guide from Loctite:
>
> http://www.useloctite.com/filephotos/documents/LT4985TLCapabilityGd.pdf
>
> Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "MH" <twobeaners at earthlink.net>
> To: <nmleeds at mindspring.com>; <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 9:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
>
>
> > Here's an idea......how about info at the manufacturer's website, Google
> is
> > handy!
> >
> >
>
http://www.useloctite.com/filephotos/documents/Threadlocking_Solutions_Guide.pdf
> >
> > Here's the another page for downloading other Loctite product guides:
> >
> >
>
http://www.useloctite.com/library/technical_literature4777.html?SubnavID=34
> >
> > Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: <nmleeds at mindspring.com>
> > To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 5:16 PM
> > Subject: [Roadsters] Loctite -- what do people like?
> >
> >
> > > Baffled by the dizzying array of loctite products I thought I'd ask
> which
> > number people like.  I know there'll be someone on the list to explain
> their
> > belief that 4203 is best for areas of the car that have heat, another
> number
> > is good for heads and areas with oil and . . . but since I call it a
good
> > day when I can find my 12 mm wrench in my tool chest I'd like to stick
to
> > one bottle -- if possible.
> > >
> > > Thoughts
> > >
> > > '69 U20 SU, Headless.
> > > ________________________________________

From robert at red-eye-motorsports.com  Fri Aug 14 11:33:23 2009
From: robert at red-eye-motorsports.com (robert at red-eye-motorsports.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 10:33:23 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Paging Ed Mitchell
Message-ID: <20090814103323.3ede50338f5c6d19aa26674ae9aeac6d.9ec689adbc.wbe@email.secureserver.net>


From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 14 17:49:24 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 23:49:24 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Old School Meet 8/27 Santa Clara
Message-ID: <SNT104-W20939AB97C8431C885C6CBB5020@phx.gbl>

Information here:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1323143410.html
Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20


_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From brycejparker at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 14 18:37:31 2009
From: brycejparker at yahoo.com (Bryce Parker)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 17:37:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks
Message-ID: <723610.70758.qm@web110516.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Starting to gather parts for my 67 1600 resto and I'm curious of any issues
with the KYB shocks as currently listed on Ebay - set of 4 for $98 and Free
Shipping.  I have a suspicion there may be a catch?  Any advice or opinions
would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Bryce ParkerMeridian, ID

From aultgc at att.net  Fri Aug 14 20:57:37 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 21:57:37 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks
References: <723610.70758.qm@web110516.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <101569D7A7BF45B3AC4F1E2A4DAD43BB@gaxp1>

KYB gas shocks have long been an aftermarket staple for roadsters.  I 
believe they can be installed in the front without dismantling the lower 
A-arms.  I run Koni adjustables on both my cars, but they won't fit through 
the stock holes in the A-arm assemblies, so I had to drop the A-arms to get 
them in my '66.  (Actually pretty easy to do -- I wrote down the sequence 
back in 1976.)  I don't know how the PO got them into the '67-1/2.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bryce Parker" <brycejparker at yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:37 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks


> Starting to gather parts for my 67 1600 resto and I'm curious of any 
> issues
> with the KYB shocks as currently listed on Ebay - set of 4 for $98 and 
> Free
> Shipping.  I have a suspicion there may be a catch?  Any advice or 
> opinions
> would be appreciated.
> Thanks!
> Bryce ParkerMeridian, ID
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From jda at srv.net  Sat Aug 15 00:40:01 2009
From: jda at srv.net (John Atchison)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 23:40:01 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] craigslist ad wants parts
In-Reply-To: <FADF7AEE-FD1C-4087-A716-B7268D09EF14@astound.net>
References: <FADF7AEE-FD1C-4087-A716-B7268D09EF14@astound.net>
Message-ID: <1250315712_11102@mailgate1.sitestar.net>

That looks like the auto-x & hillclimb roadster built by Don Miller of Boise,
he sold the car several years ago to a new owner in the bay area ?

John Atchison
Half Fast Racing
Idaho Falls

At 12:09 AM 8/13/2009, Fred Katz wrote:
>Hey check out this roadster on craigslist, belong to anyone on the
>list? Car isn't for sale, the guy needs parts.
>
>69 1600 race car with a 300zx turbo and Ford rear end. I think it
>looks wicked. Maybe I'll give him some parts just to see the beast.
>
>http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/1317825536.html
>
>Fred - So.SF

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sat Aug 15 11:26:09 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:26:09 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks
In-Reply-To: <723610.70758.qm@web110516.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <723610.70758.qm@web110516.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E4C33478C0DD4DFA87F86FC238FDBBCC@xp>

Several threads on 311s.org discuss these and other choices (sorry, no time
for me to search and provide the links), however, the general consensus is
that the KYB GR-2 are good, stock replacements. Readily available from
Summit Racing:

343138 (front): $22 each
343136 (rear):  $26 each

So $98 from eBay (Item number: 350227297352) saves you a few bucks.

And, yes, the fronts will slip through the hole in the lower A-arm.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bryce Parker
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:38 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks

Starting to gather parts for my 67 1600 resto and I'm curious of any issues
with the KYB shocks as currently listed on Ebay - set of 4 for $98 and Free
Shipping.  I have a suspicion there may be a catch?  Any advice or opinions
would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Bryce ParkerMeridian, ID
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From datsunroadsters at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 15 12:53:33 2009
From: datsunroadsters at yahoo.com (Eddie Wu / SAKE RKT)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 11:53:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks
In-Reply-To: <E4C33478C0DD4DFA87F86FC238FDBBCC@xp>
Message-ID: <659605.81951.qm@web111514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Here's what I have saved in my email. From JH Bahn back in '07.

Front
roadster  shocks are the same as Chrysler 1980-83 Cordoba, 1982 New
Yorker,
1982-89 Imperial, New Yorker, 5th Ave., 1977-81 LeBaron, Dodge 1976-80
Aspen,
1977-89 Diplomat, 1977-88 Mirada, Nissan 1962-70 1600/2000 Roadster,
Plymouth:
1982-89 Gran Fury...

Front

NISMO  99996-1750A  (Koni)

KYB  KG4528
Gas-a-just KYB   343138

Monroe 5829

Gabriel  81406 Ryder Front

Gabriel
69704  Ryder w/VST Front

KONI  80 1750



Rear

NISMO  99996-17510 (Koni)
KYB KG5447  GR2 Rear gas-a-just; May bottom out

        KG5546 replace top
bushings

KYB  343136

Gabriel  82130

KONI  80 1751


--- On Sat, 8/15/09,
Pete Peters <ppeters914 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Several threads on 311s.org
discuss
> these and other choices (sorry, no time
> for me to search and
provide the links), however, the
> general consensus is
> that the KYB GR-2
are good, stock replacements. Readily
> available from
> Summit Racing:
> 
>
343138 (front): $22 each
> 343136 (rear):  $26 each
> 
> So $98 from eBay
(Item number: 350227297352) saves you a
> few bucks.
> 
> And, yes, the fronts
will slip through the hole in the
> lower A-arm.
> 
> Pete
> 
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bryce Parker
>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:38 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
Subject: [Roadsters] KYB Shocks
> 
> Starting to gather parts for my 67 1600
resto and I'm
> curious of any issues
> with the KYB shocks as currently
listed on Ebay - set of 4
> for $98 and Free
> Shipping.  I have a suspicion
there may be a
> catch?  Any advice or opinions
> would be appreciated.
>
Thanks!
> Bryce ParkerMeridian, ID
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>
________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
datsunroadsters at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug 15 15:42:37 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 14:42:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] old gas
Message-ID: <20090815174237.XLMQP.3582900.root@mp19>

How flammable is gas going to be that is over 25 years old? The last reg tag on this car was 1981 so the gas in the tank is actually close to 30 years old. 

Everything under this car is pretty much rusted solid. I am hoping the tank can be salvaged. The only way I am going to get this tank out is to cut the fuel lines near as I can figure. 

TIA

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

From tom at datsun2000.com  Sun Aug 16 09:45:52 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 08:45:52 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] old gas
In-Reply-To: <20090815174237.XLMQP.3582900.root@mp19>
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGEENLDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

Tim,

There is a drain plug on the bottom of your gas tank.  You can drain the
tank, then remove it from the car and have it steam cleaned to get the gunk
out.  I have heard good and bad about having the interior of the tank coated
and have not done that to Mr. Hyde.  Some have reported the coating coming
loose and causing problems getting fuel out of the tank because of the loose
coating material inside of the tank.

The tank in Mr. Hyde was cleaned 7 years ago and not coated.  I have no
issues with clogging fuel filters (I carry one with me at all times).  I did
have to use my compressor to blow crud out of the fuel line a couple of
times during the first year I drove the car because I could not get fuel
from the tank to the fuel pump.

When you put the tank back into the car drill a couple of holes in the frame
and turn the rear hangers around so they hook into the frame rather than the
tabs hanging from the trunk floor.  That will prevent cracks from forming on
the trunk floor, or stop them from growing larger than they are now.

MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN A VETALATED AREA WHEN YOU DRAIN THE TANK.  You cannot
believe how much this old gas will stink.  Your neighbors may even complain
about the stink.  I don't know how well it will burn, but it will evaporate
in a few days.

Have fun.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:43 PM
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] old gas


How flammable is gas going to be that is over 25 years old? The last reg tag
on this car was 1981 so the gas in the tank is actually close to 30 years
old.

Everything under this car is pretty much rusted solid. I am hoping the tank
can be salvaged. The only way I am going to get this tank out is to cut the
fuel lines near as I can figure.

TIA

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning
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From edmitche at gmail.com  Sun Aug 16 12:13:35 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 12:13:35 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
Message-ID: <4a884c4c.25578c0a.4ca6.ffffbee0@mx.google.com>

Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}

 

I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

 

And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
with the pertronix thang

 

Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.htm
l 

 

I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also had
pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they we're
basically wanting me to buy more of their products.

 

So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600 spec'd coil work with the
Pertronix Elec. Ign.?

 

 

 

(or it's a drinking game to drink whenever pertronix is mentioned) (OMG -
how many more time could I possibly mention Pertronix?)

 

 

 

Thanks for any info

 

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces New Mexico

 

 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

 

 

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

From tom at datsun2000.com  Sun Aug 16 17:24:50 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 16:24:50 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
Message-ID: <B5B0BC5F642047FD84079ECC6984C119@Compaq2>

Ed,

I have a low resistance coil sold by Pertonix.  For whatever reason I could
never find the timing when I attempted to install the Pertronix ignition I
have.  In the end I installed a complete system from Dave Brisco, and it went
in easy, timed correctly with no problems, and now I am not worried about the
distributor point issues that kept raising their ugly head and causing me to
stop on I-5 to make minor changes or figure out what shorted out.  That was
why I was trying to put the Pertonix that I purchased several years ago in
over last winter.  I don't know if I have the wrong reluctor, or what, but I
could never find the correct timing to get the thing running.

There are different options for the Pertronix installation.  Some use the
ballast resistor, some don't.  Some require a low resistance coil like the one
I have.  Others want a higher resistance coil.  I think I purchased the low
resistance (1.5 ohm if I remembeer correctly) because it was recommended for
the 4 cylinder enginies.

Just before I pulled out the breaker point dizzy I just discovered in my
father's tool box a nearly full tube of distributor cam lubricant used to
lubricate the distributor cam and the phenolic follower on the points.  It is
a very nice smooth grease.

Too bad we don't leave near each other.  You could try the Pertonix coil on
your system.

Tom

On 8/16/2009 11:13:35 AM, Ed Mitchell (edmitche at gmail.com) wrote:
> Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}
>
>
>
> I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
>
>
>
> And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
> with the pertronix thang
>
>
>
> Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
> http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.
> htm
> l
>
>
>
> I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also
> had
> pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they
> we're
> basically wanting me to buy more of their products.
>
>
>
> So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600 spec'd
> coil work with the
> Pertronix Elec. Ign.?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> (or it's a drinking game to drink whenever pertronix is mentioned) (OMG -
> how many more time could I possibly mention Pertronix?)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks for any info
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed Mitchell
>
> Las Cruces New Mexico

From tputland at charter.net  Sun Aug 16 19:03:16 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 18:03:16 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <4a884c4c.25578c0a.4ca6.ffffbee0@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <20090816210316.6RS5Q.3515910.root@mp06>

You need to get a Gary Boone EI dizzy. And since those are no longer available new (I may have gotten the last two), you need to get an EI dizzy from Dave at East Coast Roadsters. Buy the correct coil. Set the timing. And forget about it!

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL--bioth sporting GB EI dizzys!!!!!!!!!!
Still clueless but always learning

---- Ed Mitchell <edmitche at gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}

 

I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

 

And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
with the pertronix thang

 

Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.htm
l 

 

I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also had
pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they we're
basically wanting me to buy more of their products.

 

So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600 spec'd coil work with the
Pertronix Elec. Ign.?

 

 

 

(or it's a drinking game to drink whenever pertronix is mentioned) (OMG -
how many more time could I possibly mention Pertronix?)

 

 

 

Thanks for any info

 

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces New Mexico

 

 

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

 

 

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG
You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net

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From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Sun Aug 16 20:27:35 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 22:27:35 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] old gas
In-Reply-To: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGEENLDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
Message-ID: <43ADAA0028FB44F69DC986349CB95624@delled48909442>

Hi Tim
What Tom said is basically my experience.  I added the old gas to my used
motor oil and took it to the local recycle.  The stink is awful.  I
recommend you replace every piece of rubber in the fuel system, fuel pump
diaphragm and the carb floats, and fill up the metal lines with Gumout and
blow them out into a rag.  I added a clear filter before the pump, clogged 2
of them with residual junk.  Carefully clean the sender, you may be able to
save it.


Dave
ECR


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Hendricksen [mailto:tom at datsun2000.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:46 AM
To: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net; Tim
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] old gas

Tim,

There is a drain plug on the bottom of your gas tank.  You can drain the
tank, then remove it from the car and have it steam cleaned to get the gunk
out.  I have heard good and bad about having the interior of the tank coated
and have not done that to Mr. Hyde.  Some have reported the coating coming
loose and causing problems getting fuel out of the tank because of the loose
coating material inside of the tank.

The tank in Mr. Hyde was cleaned 7 years ago and not coated.  I have no
issues with clogging fuel filters (I carry one with me at all times).  I did
have to use my compressor to blow crud out of the fuel line a couple of
times during the first year I drove the car because I could not get fuel
from the tank to the fuel pump.

When you put the tank back into the car drill a couple of holes in the frame
and turn the rear hangers around so they hook into the frame rather than the
tabs hanging from the trunk floor.  That will prevent cracks from forming on
the trunk floor, or stop them from growing larger than they are now.

MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN A VETALATED AREA WHEN YOU DRAIN THE TANK.  You cannot
believe how much this old gas will stink.  Your neighbors may even complain
about the stink.  I don't know how well it will burn, but it will evaporate
in a few days.

Have fun.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:43 PM
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] old gas


How flammable is gas going to be that is over 25 years old? The last reg tag
on this car was 1981 so the gas in the tank is actually close to 30 years
old.

Everything under this car is pretty much rusted solid. I am hoping the tank
can be salvaged. The only way I am going to get this tank out is to cut the
fuel lines near as I can figure.

TIA

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning
You are subscribed as tom at datsun2000.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

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From RacerY at comcast.net  Sun Aug 16 21:52:19 2009
From: RacerY at comcast.net (Toby B)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 20:52:19 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
Message-ID: <1a8733b20908162052s38765f1cnc927b526131e3c3e@mail.gmail.com>

Jeeze, yeah, that stuff stinks- there's some organism that gets into it...

Whatever you do, don't get it on you, because you'll stink for days.

If you have just a little, I've burned it in the car.
If there's more than 5 gallons or so, I'd give it to hazmat-
again, that stuff's nasty!

Toby
Seattle

From noji-1 at pacbell.net  Mon Aug 17 07:55:38 2009
From: noji-1 at pacbell.net (Dana Nojima)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 06:55:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] old gas
Message-ID: <002701ca1f42$6728a520$3579ef60$@net>

>From: "Tom Hendricksen" <tom at datsun2000.com>

>Subject: Re: [Roadsters] old gas

 

>When you put the tank back into the car drill a couple of holes in the
frame and turn the rear hangers around so they hook into the frame rather
than the tabs hanging from >the trunk floor.  That will prevent cracks from
forming on the trunk floor, or stop them from growing larger than they are
now.

 

 

>Tom

>69 2000 - Mr. Hyde

>Portland 

 

Could someone post a link to a image of this?  I've got cracks in the trunk
and it would be nice to not have them grow. 

 

Dana

 

Dana Nojima

510.219.6474

noji-1 at pacbell.net

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 17 09:26:20 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 08:26:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <1a8733b20908162052s38765f1cnc927b526131e3c3e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <98331.97467.qm@web51101.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Being a fuel cleanliness specialist, I can advise you that it is usually a
fungus that lives in  water, eats fuel and releases various sulpher based
compounds, all smelly. Any condensation will do, from the tinyest droplet. The
spores are in the air. It usually eats oils from plant and animal waste, but
likes fuel as well.
 
There are additives that kill the microbes, but the waste still stinks.
 
JimG
2k 69
NJ

--- On Sun, 8/16/09, Toby B <RacerY at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Toby B <RacerY at comcast.net>
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 11:52 PM


Jeeze, yeah, that stuff stinks- there's some organism that gets into it...

Whatever you do, don't get it on you, because you'll stink for days.

If you have just a little, I've burned it in the car.
If there's more than 5 gallons or so, I'd give it to hazmat-
again, that stuff's nasty!

Toby
Seattle
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From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Mon Aug 17 12:51:13 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:51:13 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <98331.97467.qm@web51101.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <1a8733b20908162052s38765f1cnc927b526131e3c3e@mail.gmail.com>
	<98331.97467.qm@web51101.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002a01ca1f6b$b1ee32e0$15ca98a0$@net>

Just out of curiosity, do you know how products like Sta-Bil work? How do
they prevent this?

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gammon
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:26 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Old Gas

Being a fuel cleanliness specialist, I can advise you that it is usually a
fungus that lives in  water, eats fuel and releases various sulpher based
compounds, all smelly. Any condensation will do, from the tinyest droplet.
The
spores are in the air. It usually eats oils from plant and animal waste, but
likes fuel as well.
 
There are additives that kill the microbes, but the waste still stinks.
 
JimG
2k 69
NJ

--- On Sun, 8/16/09, Toby B <RacerY at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Toby B <RacerY at comcast.net>
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 11:52 PM


Jeeze, yeah, that stuff stinks- there's some organism that gets into it...

Whatever you do, don't get it on you, because you'll stink for days.

If you have just a little, I've burned it in the car.
If there's more than 5 gallons or so, I'd give it to hazmat-
again, that stuff's nasty!

Toby
Seattle
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

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http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

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From dboerst at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 17 13:30:51 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 12:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Hard Starting after running for a minute
Message-ID: <234099.22020.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I have a 1966 Datsun 1600. Start the car and let it run for a minute and it is close to impossible to start again. There is gas going to the carbs and a spark at the plugs. Anyone ever have this problem?

From tom at datsun2000.com  Mon Aug 17 14:30:30 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:30:30 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
Message-ID: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>

I just installed the Dave Brisco dizzy.  He offers the ignition system as a
complete package, including the dizzy, coil, and wires.  I went with this
option and it is working just fine now.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
htt://www.nowroc.org



On 8/16/2009 6:03:16 PM, Tim (tputland at charter.net) wrote:
> You need to get a Gary Boone EI dizzy. And since those are no longer
> available new (I may have gotten the last two), you need to get an EI
> dizzy from Dave at East Coast Roadsters. Buy the correct coil. Set the
> timing. And forget about it!
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL--bioth sporting GB EI dizzys!!!!!!!!!!
> Still clueless but always learning
>
> ---- Ed Mitchell <edmitche at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}
>
>
>
> I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
>
>
>
> And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
> with the pertronix thang
>
>
>
> Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
>
http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.htm
> l
>
>
>
> I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also
had
> pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they we're
> basically wanting me to buy more of their products.
>
>
>
> So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600
> spec'd coil work with the

From cookefam314 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 17 16:00:30 2009
From: cookefam314 at gmail.com (Dave Cooke)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 17:00:30 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
References: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
Message-ID: <83a7d2520908171500x714ad34ekd131dd8561b66be0@mail.gmail.com>

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke


On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 3:30 PM, Tom Hendricksen <tom at datsun2000.com> wrote:

> I just installed the Dave Brisco dizzy.  He offers the ignition system as a
> complete package, including the dizzy, coil, and wires.  I went with this
> option and it is working just fine now.
>
> Tom
> 69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
> Portland
> http://www.datsun2000.com
> htt://www.nowroc.org
>
>
>
> On 8/16/2009 6:03:16 PM, Tim (tputland at charter.net) wrote:
> > You need to get a Gary Boone EI dizzy. And since those are no longer
> > available new (I may have gotten the last two), you need to get an EI
> > dizzy from Dave at East Coast Roadsters. Buy the correct coil. Set the
> > timing. And forget about it!
> >
> > Tim
> > Belleville, WI.
> > '70 SPL AND SRL--bioth sporting GB EI dizzys!!!!!!!!!!
> > Still clueless but always learning
> >
> > ---- Ed Mitchell <edmitche at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}
> >
> >
> >
> > I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
> > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
> >
> >
> >
> > And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
> > with the pertronix thang
> >
> >
> >
> > Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
> >
>
> http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.htm
> > l
> >
> >
> >
> > I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also
> had
> > pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they we're
> > basically wanting me to buy more of their products.
> >
> >
> >
> > So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600
> > spec'd coil work with the
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as cookefam314 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 17 19:35:07 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 18:35:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <002a01ca1f6b$b1ee32e0$15ca98a0$@net>
Message-ID: <27995.84332.qm@web51107.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I cannot seem to get an MSDS sheet for Sta-bil, but I expect it has several
components
An anti-oxidant to prevent gum formation
An alcohol to suspend water
A metal deactivator to prevent corrosion
Perhaps a minor biocide as well
 
A great product for wasting microbes is Kaython FP 1.5 (sold by FQS), but it
does nothing else. It is widely used by airlines putting aircraft into long
term storage (we've sold quite a few). We make and sell a injector for the
purpose, but do not sell the additive. It is powerful stuff.
http://www.fqsinc.com/kathon_general.php
 
Biobor JF is a similar product, but not as good, IMHO.
 
Both are for diesel and Jet fuel. Biobor can be bought at many marinas.
 
We also make injectors for anti-icing additive for jet fuel (basically just
high grade kerosine), but our real business is Jet fuel QC products. I do a
bit with ASTM and the API, IATA and EI/IP as well.
 
Jet fuel QC is us.
 
JimG
 
http://www.gammontech.com/

--- On Mon, 8/17/09, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Old Gas
To: "'Jim Gammon'" <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, August 17, 2009, 2:51 PM


Just out of curiosity, do you know how products like Sta-Bil work? How do
they prevent this?

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gammon
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:26 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Old Gas

Being a fuel cleanliness specialist, I can advise you that it is usually a
fungus that lives in  water, eats fuel and releases various sulpher based
compounds, all smelly. Any condensation will do, from the tinyest droplet.
The
spores are in the air. It usually eats oils from plant and animal waste, but
likes fuel as well.

There are additives that kill the microbes, but the waste still stinks.

JimG
2k 69
NJ

--- On Sun, 8/16/09, Toby B <RacerY at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Toby B <RacerY at comcast.net>
Subject: [Roadsters] Old Gas
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 11:52 PM


Jeeze, yeah, that stuff stinks- there's some organism that gets into it...

Whatever you do, don't get it on you, because you'll stink for days.

If you have just a little, I've burned it in the car.
If there's more than 5 gallons or so, I'd give it to hazmat-
again, that stuff's nasty!

Toby
Seattle
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
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From granvillecomputing at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 17 20:44:22 2009
From: granvillecomputing at hotmail.com (peter harrison)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 19:44:22 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] GM Alternator
Message-ID: <SNT106-W11C2CECE4A2DCAE44921D9DFFF0@phx.gbl>

Looks like I will be working on getting eliza back on the road - want to do
the gm alternator thingie - anyone out there have the necessary mountings for
the passenger side.



Thanks



Peter (Eliza)

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Mon Aug 17 21:10:09 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 23:10:09 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <4a884c4c.25578c0a.4ca6.ffffbee0@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <F269A55B87CC4D80B1CF752FAF054F4D@delled48909442>

Hi Ed.  The primary resistance is what counts for a coil.  The ballast
resistor, if used, adds to it.  The higher the resistance, the less current
can flow.  If you use a very low resistance coil in the wrong application,
they tend to blow up or leak.  Also, some oil filled coils cannot be mounted
sideways, Crane PS60, for example.  You need to read the Pertronix
instructions and use the recommended ballast resistor and coil, and
depending on the coil used, mount it upright.

Chris Beyer had a brand new Pertronix coil I sent him start leaking after a
few minutes, probably factory defective.  Specs matched what I use.    I'll
stick to my regular brands from here on, they've been trouble free, mounted
either way.

Tom, thanks for the nice review.  As far as the whacky timing, unless the
advance weights were sticking or flopping loose, I remember reading that the
pertronix units have a retard feature for easy starting.  It supposedly
retards the timing 10 or 15 degrees at cranking speeds, (approx 200rpm) This
may explain the timing being all over the map.

Dave Brisco
ECR


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mitchell [mailto:edmitche at gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 2:14 PM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}
I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
with the pertronix thang
Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.htm
l
I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also had
pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they we're
basically wanting me to buy more of their products.
So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600 spec'd coil work with the
Pertronix Elec. Ign.?
(or it's a drinking game to drink whenever pertronix is mentioned) (OMG -
how many more time could I possibly mention Pertronix?)
Thanks for any info
Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces New Mexico

 1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761







http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Mon Aug 17 21:35:29 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:35:29 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] GM Alternator
In-Reply-To: <SNT106-W11C2CECE4A2DCAE44921D9DFFF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT106-W11C2CECE4A2DCAE44921D9DFFF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A8A2181.6070009@socal.rr.com>

All you have to do is slightly modify your existing bracket.  Directions 
are on the 311 site...



peter harrison wrote:
> Looks like I will be working on getting eliza back on the road - want to do
> the gm alternator thingie - anyone out there have the necessary mountings for
> the passenger side.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Peter (Eliza)
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From rksmith46 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 17 22:09:33 2009
From: rksmith46 at hotmail.com (robert k. smith)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 00:09:33 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Hard Starting after running for a minute
In-Reply-To: <234099.22020.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <234099.22020.qm@web58601.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY124-W33418A309632F0ACC3772BFFF0@phx.gbl>

hi david, are you using choke to start it cold? ck. for choke sticking.  does
it run rough or smoke for the min. it runs? the carbs might

be set too rich for a warm engine to run. does it help to floor the

throttle when trying to start it again? ck. the spark plugs for darkness

or gas fouling. that is an interesting problem.

  good luck, bob smith,ohio.

> Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 12:30:51 -0700
> From: dboerst at yahoo.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Hard Starting after running for a minute
>
> I have a 1966 Datsun 1600. Start the car and let it run for a minute and it
is close to impossible to start again. There is gas going to the carbs and a
spark at the plugs. Anyone ever have this problem?
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rksmith46 at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 18 00:14:48 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 06:14:48 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] 2009 Monterey Historics pics
Message-ID: <SNT104-W6339FDEF14997695462BDBB5FF0@phx.gbl>

Pics here:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/574168743qYcSDQ

We saw 1 black roadster, a blue 510 and the panamerica roadster!

There was a company making vintage-style seats, pretty cool!

Alvin Gogineni San Jose, CA 67.5 SPL/SR20

Alvin Gogineni San Jose, CA 67.5 SPL/SR20



_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From nalevine at dcn.org  Tue Aug 18 10:32:12 2009
From: nalevine at dcn.org (Neil Levine)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 09:32:12 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters]  the NEVER ENDING story
Message-ID: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>

I've had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
for it.

So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).

Neil
'66 1600

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:01 PM
To: Tom Hendricksen
Cc: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Tue Aug 18 10:56:58 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 12:56:58 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
Message-ID: <8CBEE3C07E73DC2-768-760@webmail-da04.sysops.aol.com>

 You can find spare modules, even new ones on EBAY. Good to have in the glove box. Yes they are otherwise expensive new. You might be able to find some on wrecked 1982 B210s or check to see if someone is parting out? a 210 so you can get the module. 
When I got my GB dizzy from Garry the instructions listed numbers for the spare parts.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Levine <nalevine at dcn.org>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Aug 18, 2009 9:32 am
Subject: [Roadsters]  the NEVER ENDING story










I've had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
for it.

So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).

Neil
'66 1600

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:01 PM
To: Tom Hendricksen
Cc: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From chalsted at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 11:36:55 2009
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 17:36:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Fwd: 68 1600 ROADSTER FOR SALE
In-Reply-To: <8CBEE38A0FE627D-AAC-2B3@FWM-M44.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1609746859.1516721250617015724.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I was asked to forward this to the list, don't know the car, have no financial interest in the transaction... contact Bill directly 

Craig 

Craig would you forward to list please/ Vacaville, Calif. Red 68 1600, ZX wheels, new tires, $3500.00, Call Bill @ 707-253-1551, 7-3 Tue thru Sat. No Sun or Mon. 

From az589 at lafn.org  Tue Aug 18 12:25:52 2009
From: az589 at lafn.org (Stan Chernoff)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 11:25:52 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20090818111645.04f0d348@lafn.org>

Neil,

I remember that incident.  I removed a module from one of the EI 
roadster distributors that I had been building and sold it to 
Neil.  The modules are quite reliable but some failures are 
inevitable.  I recommend having a spare.  Avoid the modules that have 
extra connections on the side because they were made for a different 
application.  New modules from Nissan are pricey but probably have 
the best quality and reliability.  Used Nissan modules are also a good choice.

Stan
==

At 09:32 AM 8/18/2009, Neil Levine wrote:
>I've had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
>performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
>too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
>meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
>was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
>wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
>price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
>store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
>for it.
>
>So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
>don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
>ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).
>
>Neil
>'66 1600

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 12:56:41 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:56:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Thunderhill Raceway street view
In-Reply-To: <W1910315234147911250619482@webmail55>
Message-ID: <2117821463.904781250621801828.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Reposting from the Bluebirds list. This is pretty cool:
----------------------------------------------------------

For all you past Shasta/Thunder Hill participants, Google just added street view imagery of the Thunderhill track; 

<http://tinyurl.com/qa2p8s>

Move around the track by clicking on the < that are on the ground, you may need to zoom out (-) in order to see the < . 

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 15:47:24 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 14:47:24 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
Message-ID: <005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>

And therein lies the one disadvantage of electronic ignition. If it dies,
all you can do is replace a rather expensive part. And if you don't have one
with you, you're stuck. You can file, clean and regap points on the side of
the road if need be.

Don't get me wrong, the EI dizzy as built by Gary and Dave is a great unit.
Just remember to carry an extra module with you.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil Levine
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:32 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

I've had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
for it.

So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).

Neil
'66 1600

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:01 PM
To: Tom Hendricksen
Cc: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Tue Aug 18 17:26:32 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (Charles Breault)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:26:32 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
	<005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>
Message-ID: <E28A543C82554107A481D956E0F1AC3E@Home>

I actually carry a spare distributer with me. Only takes like 10 minutes on
the side of the road. Plus, if I have it with me, it will never break.
CharlieB.

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gordon Glasgow
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 5:47 PM
To: 'Neil Levine'; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

And therein lies the one disadvantage of electronic ignition. If it dies,
all you can do is replace a rather expensive part. And if you don't have one
with you, you're stuck. You can file, clean and regap points on the side of
the road if need be.

Don't get me wrong, the EI dizzy as built by Gary and Dave is a great unit.
Just remember to carry an extra module with you.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil Levine
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:32 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

I've had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
for it.

So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).

Neil
'66 1600

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:01 PM
To: Tom Hendricksen
Cc: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as vze2fhba at verizon.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From slowboy at cox.net  Tue Aug 18 18:17:46 2009
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 17:17:46 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <E28A543C82554107A481D956E0F1AC3E@Home>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org><005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>
	<E28A543C82554107A481D956E0F1AC3E@Home>
Message-ID: <820A9210375C462CBFB1701421C0D188@M7170N>

-----Original Message-----



I actually carry a spare distributer with me. Only takes like 10 minutes on

the side of the road. Plus, if I have it with me, it will never break.

CharlieB.

 

Does this mean your car is always dirty? lol

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 18 19:22:46 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:22:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org>
	<005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>
Message-ID: <354217.15863.qm@web36302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Back when I sold these EI dizzies, I suggested in my instructions that came with the dizzy, that the owner search the salvage yards for a spare module and have it tested at the autoparts store.  Beware that a lot of testers will indicate the module is bad when it is actually good. They're on any Datsun models, years 1979 thru 1982.  There are still several 280ZX's in the yards ( I just saw one last week in a local yard with a module on it).   I'd suggest that if the tester says it's bad, install it anyway to prove it.  Then carry the spare.  Beware of the module if it doesn't have on it "E12-80".  Don't buy it, because its likely a Taiwan aftermarket unit and they are less reliable.    

With my fuel injection conversion, I also converted my ignition  to a flying magnet crank trigger and the ECU is controlling spark advance.  So I gutted my EI dizzy including removing the module.  Pure heresy 
Happy roadstering.
Gary
To: Neil Levine <nalevine at dcn.org>; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:47:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

And therein lies the one disadvantage of electronic ignition. If it dies,
all you can do is replace a rather expensive part. And if you don't have one
with you, you're stuck. You can file, clean and regap points on the side of
the road if need be.

Don't get me wrong, the EI dizzy as built by Gary and Dave is a great unit.
Just remember to carry an extra module with you.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil Levine
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:32 AM
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

I've had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
for it.

So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).

Neil
'66 1600

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:01 PM
To: Tom Hendricksen
Cc: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 19:26:51 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 21:26:51 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] GM Alternator
In-Reply-To: <SNT106-W11C2CECE4A2DCAE44921D9DFFF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BE37D4DEDD4E4316BD3E9CF59B08FD1E@delled48909442>

If you can't find the brackets, the drivers side conversion requires no
adaptation of the mounts, bolts right in.  I have photos if anyone is
interested.
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii241/daveandlindab/Drivers%20side%20alte
rnator/


I found a good source for alternators just ordered one for the 64, $55.00
delivered in 3 days, no core and looks great.  New cases, rebuilt inside,
avail as a 1 or 3 wire.  He even included a larger pully for high RPM.
Bill Howard howent at hotmail.com  He also sells on Ebay.  He has rgular, minis
and chrome GM's.
I have no affiliation to his business, just passing on the info.

Dave Brisco
East Coast Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: peter harrison [mailto:granvillecomputing at hotmail.com]
 Subject: [Roadsters] GM Alternator
Looks like I will be working on getting eliza back on the road - want to do
the gm alternator thingie - anyone out there have the necessary mountings
for
the passenger side.



Thanks



Peter (Eliza)

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 19:42:34 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 21:42:34 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <8CBEE3C07E73DC2-768-760@webmail-da04.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6259E7F283194739AC5BADA7F9611817@delled48909442>

There are usually 1 or 2 modules on Ebay for about $49.00.  I use him as a
source when I run short.  I get them in on cores physically broken, but
still working.  Of course I can't sell these, but they are good spares if
anyone wants one.

It's called an E12-80, and that # is stamped on it.  Always try to get a
Nissan if you are buying a used one, and the one with the extra plug on the
side won't work, it's for a 280Z turbo.

If you REALLY get stuck, you can wire in a GM HEI module, cheap and
available anywhere, with a few feet of wire and some tape in about half an
hour and get home.

Dave Brisco
East Coast Roadster


-----Original Message-----
From: ljordan704 at aim.com [mailto:ljordan704 at aim.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 12:57 PM
To: nalevine at dcn.org; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

 You can find spare modules, even new ones on EBAY. Good to have in the
glove box. Yes they are otherwise expensive new. You might be able to find
some on wrecked 1982 B210s or check to see if someone is parting out? a 210
so you can get the module.
When I got my GB dizzy from Garry the instructions listed numbers for the
spare parts.

Linda

Original Message-----
From: Neil Levine <nalevine at dcn.org>


Ive had the Gary Boone dizzy on my car for several years and it has
performed well, but the control module failed on my unit a few years ago not
too long after installing it.  Fortunately this happened at the Mt. Shasta
meet where there were a number of kind folk who were able to help out and I
was finally able to find a used good module to replace the bad one.  If I
wasn't able to find this used one from one of our vendors at a reasonable
price, I was going to have to purchase a new one from a local car parts
store for what I remember was around $175 and would have had to wait a day
for it.

So let's just say that I now carry a spare module with me just in case.  I
don't know how often these things might fail, I may have had the only one
ever, but sometimes it pays to worry just a little :-).

Neil
'66 1600

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Cooke
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:01 PM
To: Tom Hendricksen
Cc: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Welcome to the Club of Worry-Free Ignition!
-Dave Cooke
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 22:14:11 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 00:14:11 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
Message-ID: <0782D4853E64496E904D5A4120B4E8E8@delled48909442>

Tom, Dave, Thanks for the comments.

Just for clarity, what I sell IS/was a Gary Boone distributor, I bought the
whole shooting match from Gary.  There's been some small changes, but only
as a production and/or durability improvement.

Oh, and Mark and Drew Dent truly have the last "Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone".
Gary gave me a complete finished distributor he built for a model as part of
the deal.  After I no longer needed a model to refer back to, I added grease
and gave it to Mark's son Drew as a birthday present for his Roadster. I'm
installing it Saturday.  Dave Freed also mentioned that got the last one and
someone else paid around $600.00 for the other last one on Ebay.

Dave Brisco
East Coast Roadster


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Hendricksen [mailto:tom at datsun2000.com]
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 4:31 PM
To: Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net; Tputland at Charter. Net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

I just installed the Dave Brisco dizzy.  He offers the ignition system as a
complete package, including the dizzy, coil, and wires.  I went with this
option and it is working just fine now.

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
htt://www.nowroc.org



On 8/16/2009 6:03:16 PM, Tim (tputland at charter.net) wrote:
> You need to get a Gary Boone EI dizzy. And since those are no longer
> available new (I may have gotten the last two), you need to get an EI
> dizzy from Dave at East Coast Roadsters. Buy the correct coil. Set the
> timing. And forget about it!
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL--bioth sporting GB EI dizzys!!!!!!!!!!
> Still clueless but always learning
>
> ---- Ed Mitchell <edmitche at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Ok..Dead Betty...once again DEAD  {~*Pout*~}
>
>
>
> I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition.do-ma-hitchie
> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
>
>
>
> And now it seems my coil blew up.  Dunno if I have the wrong coil for use
> with the pertronix thang
>
>
>
> Coil is a diamond FTM-063GT 12v  (looks like this thing -->)
>
http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/3885279/sell_ignition_coil_gt63.htm
> l
>
>
>
> I noticed while installing the Pertronix Electronic Ignition...they also
had
> pertronix coils identified on a small pamphlet.but I "assumed" they we're
> basically wanting me to buy more of their products.
>
>
>
> So I guess the question is.will any Datsun 1600
> spec'd coil work with the

From slowboy at cox.net  Tue Aug 18 23:57:23 2009
From: slowboy at cox.net (SlowBoy)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 22:57:23 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <0782D4853E64496E904D5A4120B4E8E8@delled48909442>
References: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
	<0782D4853E64496E904D5A4120B4E8E8@delled48909442>
Message-ID: <8ADEBE29C8014BA3B1E1195A55C21668@M7170N>

Not quite the last Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone uninstalled distributor. Mine is
still in the box I received from Gary on 10 DEC 2001 at a whooping cost of
$218 delivered. It's just waiting on me to actually install it.

Jim
SlowBoy
"Slower than molasses up hill in Phoenix during August"



-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:14 PM
To: 'Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net'
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story


Oh, and Mark and Drew Dent truly have the last "Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone".
Gary gave me a complete finished distributor he built for a model as part of
the deal.  After I no longer needed a model to refer back to, I added grease
and gave it to Mark's son Drew as a birthday present for his Roadster. I'm
installing it Saturday.  Dave Freed also mentioned that got the last one and
someone else paid around $600.00 for the other last one on Ebay.

Dave Brisco
East Coast Roadster

From alagams at juno.com  Wed Aug 19 06:42:53 2009
From: alagams at juno.com (alagams at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 12:42:53 GMT
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
Message-ID: <20090819.084253.20030.0@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

I might not have the last Gary Boone EI but I do have one of the first DB EI's
does that count for anything.
Gary
____________________________________________________________
Discount Airfare from $49
Airfare Rates Just Dropped! Book Now to Lock In the Best Deals.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=pHF6SSv8VLDYi90NiUlOCQAAJ1Db-7K
uMPJffYsq3MtsBROGAAUAAAAAAAAAAKDP5D2WFeBCJpYg4kwntRNVvEtMAAAAAA==

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 19 07:55:44 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 06:55:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <8CBEE9DC83C046D-D94-1D46@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
References: <001501ca2021$70699e20$513cda60$@org><005401ca204d$79944050$6cbcc0f0$@net>
	<354217.15863.qm@web36302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CBEE9DC83C046D-D94-1D46@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <382301.37497.qm@web36302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Linda,
Any module that is a E12-80 will work.  They're all the same regardless
of what model they come from, whether it's a 1979-82 210, 310, 510, 810,
pickup, or 280ZX. (Was there a 610 and 710 too during that time?  )  
Gary
________________________________
From: "ljordan704 at aim.com"
<ljordan704 at aim.com>
To: gboone70 at yahoo.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:36:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER
ENDING story


Garry,
Do the 280Zx modules work also? I thought just the B210s
did. Though I guess the part # could be checked for all of its applications.
Re the Taiwainese modules: I would think that if you get a few junkyard spares
that are tested to work they would likely cover you for some time.
I'm waiting
for the GB fuel injection conversion kit to come out. That would be something
I'm glad I got my GB dizzy before the price took off.
Linda


-----Original
Message-----
From: Gary Boone <gboone70 at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun Roadster List
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 18, 2009 6:22 pm
Subject: Re:
[Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story


Back when I sold these EI dizzies, I
suggested in my instructions that came with 

the dizzy, that the owner search
the salvage yards for a spare module and have 

it tested at the autoparts
store.  Beware that a lot of testers will indicate 

the module is bad when it
is actually good. They're on any Datsun models, years 

1979 thru 1982.  There
are still several 280ZX's in the yards ( I just saw one 

last week in a local
yard with a module on it).   I'd suggest that if the tester 

says it's bad,
install it anyway to prove it.  Then carry the spare.  Beware of 

the module
if it doesn't have on it "E12-80".  Don't buy it, because its likely 

a
Taiwan aftermarket unit and they are less reliable.    



With my fuel
injection conversion, I also converted my ignition  to a flying 

magnet crank
trigger and the ECU is controlling spark advance.  So I gutted my 

EI dizzy
including removing the module.  Pure heresy 

Happy roadstering.

Gary

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 13:12:05 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 12:12:05 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] EI distributors
Message-ID: <003f01ca2100$f16b7b30$d4427190$@net>

It has been brought to my attention that Stan Chernoff also builds EI
distributors. I actually wasn't aware of this (there are many things I'm not
aware of). When I made the comment that the units built by Gary and Dave
were high quality units, I definitely DID NOT mean to imply that the ones
built by Stan were of inferior quality. I hope no one took it that way. The
oversight is mine.

Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
www.gordon-glasgow.org

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Aug 19 13:34:32 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:34:32 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] EI distributors
In-Reply-To: <003f01ca2100$f16b7b30$d4427190$@net>
Message-ID: <20090819153432.MMKJC.3758666.root@mp11>

I also didn't know Stan was building them. I thought Gary (and now Dave) were the only ones. 

Hope I didn't say anything offensive. If so, appologies all around.

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

---- Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow at comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
It has been brought to my attention that Stan Chernoff also builds EI
distributors. I actually wasn't aware of this (there are many things I'm not
aware of). When I made the comment that the units built by Gary and Dave
were high quality units, I definitely DID NOT mean to imply that the ones
built by Stan were of inferior quality. I hope no one took it that way. The
oversight is mine.

Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
www.gordon-glasgow.org
You are subscribed as tputland at charter.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 18:08:15 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:08:15 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] the continuing and still NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <382301.37497.qm@web36302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C971D704A5464A11A466898FF2AC4FE6@delled48909442>

This is most of the cars that it fits.  As Gary said, If it's a Nissan and
says "E12-80", then it's correct.

      200SX	(1979 - 1981)
	210	(1979 - 1982)
	210 DELUXE	(1980 - 1982)
	280ZX	(1979 - 1981)
	280ZX 2+2	(1979 - 1980)
	280ZX 2+2 GL	1981
	310	(1979 - 1981)
	310 GX	(1980 - 1981)
	510	(1979 - 1980)
	620 PICKUP	1979
	720 PICKUP	1980
	810	(1979 - 1981)
	MAXIMA SL	1981

This is the wrong one, from a later ZX with the extra terminals, FI cars I
think.
Copy and paste for photo.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=336649&imageurl=http
%3A//198.208.187.182/servlet/com.entigo.acdelcocatalog.servlet.ProcessImageS
ervlet%3Flanguagecd%3DEN%26countrycd%3DUS%26user%3DInternetUser%26mfgname%3D
%26prodlinecd%3D%26acpartnbr%3DE1946A


-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Boone [mailto:gboone70 at yahoo.com]
 Linda,
Any module that is a E12-80 will work.  They're all the same regardless
of what model they come from, whether it's a 1979-82 210, 310, 510, 810,
pickup, or 280ZX. (Was there a 610 and 710 too during that time?  )
Gary
________________________________
From: "ljordan704 at aim.com"
<ljordan704 at aim.com>


Garry,
Do the 280Zx modules work also? I thought just the B210s
did. Though I guess the part # could be checked for all of its applications.
Re the Taiwainese modules: I would think that if you get a few junkyard
spares
that are tested to work they would likely cover you for some time.
I'm waiting
for the GB fuel injection conversion kit to come out. That would be
something
I'm glad I got my GB dizzy before the price took off.
Linda


-----Original
Message-----


Back when I sold these EI dizzies, I
suggested in my instructions that came with

the dizzy, that the owner search
the salvage yards for a spare module and have

it tested at the autoparts
store.  Beware that a lot of testers will indicate

the module is bad when it
is actually good. They're on any Datsun models, years

1979 thru 1982.  There
are still several 280ZX's in the yards ( I just saw one

last week in a local
yard with a module on it).   I'd suggest that if the tester

says it's bad,
install it anyway to prove it.  Then carry the spare.  Beware of

the module
if it doesn't have on it "E12-80".  Don't buy it, because its likely

a
Taiwan aftermarket unit and they are less reliable.



With my fuel
injection conversion, I also converted my ignition  to a flying

magnet crank
trigger and the ECU is controlling spark advance.  So I gutted my

EI dizzy
including removing the module.  Pure heresy

Happy roadstering.

Gary

From barterdude at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 12:39:39 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 12:39:39 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] WyCROC rises to the challenge
Message-ID: <C4C66BC3799946CB8FDFE5BBB10F11CB@XPLaptop>

All we can say is WOW.  This is the first time in the WyCROC history, that
we had a total of 24 Roadster's show up for an event.  The event started
early Saturday morning with Eric Frisbee, Dan Neff and Gary Lasater
(original founder's) meeting at Gary's house.  AJ Lasater, now 18 and
driving his own 1600 join the group and we headed off to the original
meeting place, the Castle Rock McDonald's.  We had a total of 8 roadster's
meeting at the first stop on the road to Greeley.  Our first early Z from
the ZRoad group (a mixture of early Z's from 1970 to '78 and roadsters)
joined us at the starting point too.

 

Next, we all cruised up I-25 to meet the central roadster owners at
Brooklyn's near the Pepsi Center in downtown.  To our surprise, we meet
another 9 roadster owners to bring our ranks to 17.  That took the breath
away, since our previous record was 13 roadsters at one event.
Unfortunately, we had a couple that had previous commitments and were unable
to make the trip to Greeley.  Additionally we had invited our newer (at
least to us) brethren, the early Z's, and we had several more Z car's join
us at Brooklyn's. 

 

Our next stop was the McDonald's in Brighton where we picked a couple more
roadsters and Z cars.  Unfortunately we had a causality with one of the
1600's apparently overheated on the way and cracked his block and had a
rather large quantity of water flowing out of the exhaust pipe and on the
ground.  But, he took it in stride using this as excuse to upgrade and talk
about options leaning towards a KA conversion.

 

We finally arrived at Erlich's Nissan in Greeley shortly after noon to meet
up with the northern contingent and after everyone arrived found parking
spots we ended up with 20 Roadsters, 8 early Z's and 3 late model Z's for a
showing of 31.  Erlich graciously sponsored a BBQ and gave out awards for
early and late roadsters, Z cars, People's Choice and Dealer's Choice.

 

Finally, we would like to thank our original Founder's for coming out 10
years ago and starting up a rag-tag bunch of roadster enthusiasts. (From
left to right)  Eric Frisbee, Dan Neff, Gary Lasater, Gary Boone, and Greg
Nelson were able to make the show.  Eric drove 1000 miles towing his '70
Blue 2000 (the original 1600 didn't make the trip but he still has it).  Dan
unfortunately is without a roadster right now but we're working on getting
him back with one, but for the event, he drove Gary Lasater's yellow and
black '69 2000.  Gary Lasater brought his 1500 from the original meet along
with his son driving his '70 1600.  Gary Boone brought his newly working EFI
blue 2000 ready for the race track again.  Greg Nelson's roadster is being
put back together after some much needed repairs are being done.
Unfortunately, Mike Koken and his car was unable to make the event.

 

Our webmaster, Dan Neff, should hopefully have all the great pictures up on
www.WyCROC.org <http://www.wycroc.org/>  shortly.  In the meantime, Daniel
Bailin, from the ZRoad group has posted some pictures and a nice video
riding in John Over's roadster leaving Brooklyn's.

 

http://s88.photobuc
<http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k172/dbailin/2009-08%20ZRoad%20show%20Gre
eley/> ket.com/albums/k172/dbailin/2009-08%20ZRoad%20show%20Greeley/

 

 

Gary Lasater

founding member www.wycroc.org

'63 SPL310-300161C

'63 SPL310-300289B

'64 SPL310-001289

'68 SRL311-11977

'69 SRL311-12536

'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

 

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

From goldhawg71 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 19 18:27:02 2009
From: goldhawg71 at yahoo.com (J H)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 17:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <8ADEBE29C8014BA3B1E1195A55C21668@M7170N>
References: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
	<0782D4853E64496E904D5A4120B4E8E8@delled48909442>
	<8ADEBE29C8014BA3B1E1195A55C21668@M7170N>
Message-ID: <969540.25933.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Sssshhh...we shouldn't keep telling people that there are more Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone uninstalled distributors.  Then they'll think each one is the last one and with no other supply, we can sell at a fortune.  I won't tell them that I also bought one once he restarted production a couple of years ago just to have one, since I thought he might quit again and I'd not have any source.  I may never use it, but I have it!  

Oops..guess I shouldn't have replied all...now the secret's out.

Jeff
aka Goldhawg




________________________________
From: SlowBoy <slowboy at cox.net>
To: "Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:57:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story

Not quite the last Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone uninstalled distributor. Mine is
still in the box I received from Gary on 10 DEC 2001 at a whooping cost of
$218 delivered. It's just waiting on me to actually install it.

Jim
SlowBoy
"Slower than molasses up hill in Phoenix during August"



-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:14 PM
To: 'Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net'
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story


Oh, and Mark and Drew Dent truly have the last "Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone".
Gary gave me a complete finished distributor he built for a model as part of
the deal.  After I no longer needed a model to refer back to, I added grease
and gave it to Mark's son Drew as a birthday present for his Roadster. I'm
installing it Saturday.  Dave Freed also mentioned that got the last one and
someone else paid around $600.00 for the other last one on Ebay.

Dave Brisco
East Coast Roadster
You are subscribed as goldhawg71 at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 19 18:38:23 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 00:38:23 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <969540.25933.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
	<0782D4853E64496E904D5A4120B4E8E8@delled48909442>
	<8ADEBE29C8014BA3B1E1195A55C21668@M7170N> 
	<969540.25933.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W39E936F0993FA910C527C9B5FD0@phx.gbl>

darn it!I can't get this song out of my head!

Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20



> Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 17:27:02 -0700
> From: goldhawg71 at yahoo.com
> To: slowboy at cox.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
>
> Sssshhh...we shouldn't keep telling people that there are more Gen-U-Wine
Gary Boone uninstalled distributors.  Then they'll think each one is the last
one and with no other supply, we can sell at a fortune.  I won't tell them
that I also bought one once he restarted production a couple of years ago just
to have one, since I thought he might quit again and I'd not have any source.
I may never use it, but I have it!
>
> Oops..guess I shouldn't have replied all...now the secret's out.
>
> Jeff
> aka Goldhawg
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: SlowBoy <slowboy at cox.net>
> To: "Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:57:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
>
> Not quite the last Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone uninstalled distributor. Mine is
> still in the box I received from Gary on 10 DEC 2001 at a whooping cost of
> $218 delivered. It's just waiting on me to actually install it.
>
> Jim
> SlowBoy
> "Slower than molasses up hill in Phoenix during August"
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:14 PM
> To: 'Datsun-Roadsters at Autox. Team. Net'
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
>
>
> Oh, and Mark and Drew Dent truly have the last "Gen-U-Wine Gary Boone".
> Gary gave me a complete finished distributor he built for a model as part
of
> the deal.  After I no longer needed a model to refer back to, I added
grease
> and gave it to Mark's son Drew as a birthday present for his Roadster. I'm
> installing it Saturday.  Dave Freed also mentioned that got the last one
and
> someone else paid around $600.00 for the other last one on Ebay.
>
> Dave Brisco
> East Coast Roadster
> You are subscribed as goldhawg71 at yahoo.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as alvingogi at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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_HYGN_faster:082009

From dato1500 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 19 21:21:28 2009
From: dato1500 at hotmail.com (Peter Jones)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 11:21:28 +0800
Subject: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W39E936F0993FA910C527C9B5FD0@phx.gbl>
References: <MBEHKLBNELGFFJEJICKGAENMDHAA.tom@datsun2000.com>
	<0782D4853E64496E904D5A4120B4E8E8@delled48909442>
	<8ADEBE29C8014BA3B1E1195A55C21668@M7170N> 
	<969540.25933.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> 
	<SNT104-W39E936F0993FA910C527C9B5FD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU140-W31F6D65659939698EE6467D5FD0@phx.gbl>

It's even worst when you know how sings it Lama and the film clip has a big
white creature flying through the air with a small boy on it's back.


argh

Peter j

> From: alvingogi at hotmail.com
> To: goldhawg71 at yahoo.com; slowboy at cox.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 00:38:23 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
>
> darn it!I can't get this song out of my head!
>
> Alvin Gogineni
> San Jose, CA
> 67.5 SPL/SR20
>
>
>
> > Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 17:27:02 -0700
> > From: goldhawg71 at yahoo.com
> > To: slowboy at cox.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] the NEVER ENDING story
> >
> > Sssshhh...we shouldn't keep telling people that there are more Gen-U-Wine
> Gary Boone uninstalled distributors.  Then they'll think each one is the
last
> one and with no other supply, we can sell at a fortune.  I won't tell them
> that I also bought one once he restarted production a couple of years ago
just
> to have one, since I thought he might quit again and I'd not have any
source.
> I may never use it, but I have it!
> >
> > Oops..guess I shouldn't have replied all...now the secret's out.
> >
> > Jeff
> > aka Goldhawg


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From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 11:21:39 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 17:21:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Wanted: late model clutch & brake hardlines
In-Reply-To: <1205480096.1772111250788835910.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1422779959.1772541250788899596.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

We have a young gentleman (recently turned 16) with a '69 1600. One problem is the clutch & brake hard lines in the engine compartment have been pretty mangled by a PO. Hoping someone local in the Puget Sound area might have the lines. Another option is if someone attending this Saturday's Shed BBQ might have 'em, and one of our members can bring them back north saving packaging/shipping. 

What's needed (in good condition) are: 

Clutch master cylinder to clutch slave hose 
Brake master cylinder to firewall junction block (2 lines) 
Firewall junction block to front caliper hoses (2 lines) 

Thanks. 

Pete 

From tom at datsun2000.com  Thu Aug 20 17:00:33 2009
From: tom at datsun2000.com (Tom Hendricksen)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:00:33 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] SHED BBQ/RUN RUN THIS SATURDAY
Message-ID: <152538D834AB406B9B9E77D72BB4F9FD@Compaq2>

This Saturday is the BBQ/Fun run hosted by Bill and Karen Neil.

I will be leaving Portland on I-205, exit 16 about 8 AM.  Is there anyone else
going down around that time?

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland

From gcallahan at prodigy.net  Thu Aug 20 17:09:37 2009
From: gcallahan at prodigy.net (Gary Callahan)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:09:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] SHED BBQ/RUN RUN THIS SATURDAY
In-Reply-To: <152538D834AB406B9B9E77D72BB4F9FD@Compaq2>
Message-ID: <352823.59376.qm@web81001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I will likely be leaving Beaverton about the same time.


 
Gary Callahan  
Beaverton, Oregon
 
1968 Datsun 1600 "Fairlady" Roadster
SPL311-18665
 

--- On Thu, 8/20/09, Tom Hendricksen <tom at datsun2000.com> wrote:


From: Tom Hendricksen <tom at datsun2000.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] SHED BBQ/RUN RUN THIS SATURDAY
To: "Autox" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, August 20, 2009, 4:00 PM


This Saturday is the BBQ/Fun run hosted by Bill and Karen Neil.

I will be leaving Portland on I-205, exit 16 about 8 AM.  Is there anyone
else
going down around that time?

Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
You are subscribed as gcallahan at prodigy.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 20 17:23:07 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
Message-ID: <542155.70572.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all
 
Simple question. I completely rebuilt my 2k engine, hot tank up.
 
I now have about 250 miles on her, and I'm thinking of using synthetic when I
change the oil.
 
What say? Seems logical to me to use either blend of full synthetic, but
perhaps a thicker one.
 
Jim
NJ
2k 69

From mkiisupra at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 20 17:53:06 2009
From: mkiisupra at hotmail.com (Eric Gillis)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 23:53:06 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
In-Reply-To: <542155.70572.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <542155.70572.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL116-W25458A6E8D81185CAB079DACFD0@phx.gbl>

There is a pretty good article in this month's Grassroots Motorsports.  You
might be surprised about what is said with synthetics vs. dino juice, and
other notes about which oil to use.  For instance, higher viscoscities may
'trap' heat more, etc. I have even heard of some preferring oil for diesels
(pushrod R16 suggestion only, not mine)  I find this information and the
'conventional wisdom' (pun intended) to be a bit of a battle ground.  Good
luck, I am also ready for my 'first' oil change with a R16 rebuild.  I am sure
if there aren't many projects being worked upon, that several will chime in.



Eric G

(I'll be thinkin' with my dipstick, Jimmy!)

> Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:23:07 -0700
> From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
>
> Hi all
>
> Simple question. I completely rebuilt my 2k engine, hot tank up.
>
> I now have about 250 miles on her, and I'm thinking of using synthetic when
I
> change the oil.
>
> What say? Seems logical to me to use either blend of full synthetic, but
> perhaps a thicker one.
>
> Jim
> NJ
> 2k 69
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mkiisupra at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

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From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Thu Aug 20 18:17:16 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:17:16 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Visiting Colorado Springs
Message-ID: <4A8DE78C.6070101@mail.utexas.edu>

My wife and I will be in Colorado Springs September 30th and October for 
classes. Anyone want to get together for a visit/meal?Anyone for a meal 
and visit?

Peace,
Pat

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Thu Aug 20 18:17:30 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:17:30 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Visiting the Portland area
Message-ID: <4A8DE79A.2090906@mail.utexas.edu>

My wife and I will be flying into Portland for a family reunion from 
September September 10th and leaving on September 13th. Anyone for a 
meal and visit?

Peace,
Pat

From barterdude at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 19:19:26 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:19:26 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] Visiting Colorado Springs
In-Reply-To: <4A8DE78C.6070101@mail.utexas.edu>
References: <4A8DE78C.6070101@mail.utexas.edu>
Message-ID: <7C7E3547A6CC4FD1B7DE1B4F2CD844EB@XPLaptop>

Hey Pat - we have a rather active WyCROC group with a few in the CSprings
area.  I might even come down from South Denver metro area.  Keep us
apprised of your timing and I will relay to our WyCROC group email list.

Gary Lasater
founding member www.wycroc.org
'63 SPL310-300161C
'63 SPL310-300289B
'64 SPL310-001289
'68 SRL311-11977
'69 SRL311-12536
'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

 
 -----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat Horne
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 6:17 PM
To: datsun Roadster List
Subject: [Roadsters] Visiting Colorado Springs

My wife and I will be in Colorado Springs September 30th and October for 
classes. Anyone want to get together for a visit/meal?Anyone for a meal 
and visit?

Peace,
Pat
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.58/2309 - Release Date: 08/20/09
06:05:00

From barterdude at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 19:20:49 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:20:49 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
In-Reply-To: <542155.70572.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <542155.70572.qm@web51105.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8FE3C3CDED504C49A9E37802F4BAB9BC@XPLaptop>

Hey Jim -

I have been running Royal Purple 20-50w in my 2000 with great success.  Runs
quick, stays cool and rev's quicker.

Gary Lasater
founding member www.wycroc.org
'63 SPL310-300161C
'63 SPL310-300289B
'64 SPL310-001289
'68 SRL311-11977
'69 SRL311-12536
'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gammon
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:23 PM
To: Datsun roadster
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil

Hi all
 
Simple question. I completely rebuilt my 2k engine, hot tank up.
 
I now have about 250 miles on her, and I'm thinking of using synthetic when
I
change the oil.
 
What say? Seems logical to me to use either blend of full synthetic, but
perhaps a thicker one.
 
Jim
NJ
2k 69
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.58/2309 - Release Date: 08/20/09
06:05:00

From datrock at centurytel.net  Thu Aug 20 19:28:10 2009
From: datrock at centurytel.net (Bill Cole)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 18:28:10 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] SHED BBQ/RUN RUN THIS SATURDAY
In-Reply-To: <152538D834AB406B9B9E77D72BB4F9FD@Compaq2>
References: <152538D834AB406B9B9E77D72BB4F9FD@Compaq2>
Message-ID: <4A8DF82A.7030402@centurytel.net>

Hi Tom, I'll see you at Bill & Karen's around 10:00am. If needed, there 
is gas and a couple mini-marts on the West side of I-5 at the hwy 34 
exit. See you Saturday... Bill

From phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov  Thu Aug 20 19:33:27 2009
From: phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov (Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ED10))
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 20:33:27 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
Message-ID: <C7F293DA5D3422438B898BAC711427A82A9C69D6E9@NDMSSCC06.ndc.nasa.gov>

With our testing, royal purple is good oil



----- Original Message -----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: 'Jim Gammon' <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>; 'Datsun roadster' <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu Aug 20 20:20:49 2009
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil

Hey Jim -

I have been running Royal Purple 20-50w in my 2000 with great success.  Runs
quick, stays cool and rev's quicker.

Gary Lasater
founding member www.wycroc.org
'63 SPL310-300161C
'63 SPL310-300289B
'64 SPL310-001289
'68 SRL311-11977
'69 SRL311-12536
'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gammon
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:23 PM
To: Datsun roadster
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil

Hi all
 
Simple question. I completely rebuilt my 2k engine, hot tank up.
 
I now have about 250 miles on her, and I'm thinking of using synthetic when
I
change the oil.
 
What say? Seems logical to me to use either blend of full synthetic, but
perhaps a thicker one.
 
Jim
NJ
2k 69
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.58/2309 - Release Date: 08/20/09
06:05:00
________________________________________
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov

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From barterdude at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 20:24:29 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 20:24:29 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
Message-ID: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>

I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of Pennsylvania and
virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big time.
Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this detached
without having to bust everything in half?

 

Suggestion appreciated.

 

Gary Lasater

founding member www.wycroc.org

'63 SPL310-300161C

'63 SPL310-300289B

'64 SPL310-001289

'68 SRL311-11977

'69 SRL311-12536

'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

 

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 20 20:27:06 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:27:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
In-Reply-To: <C7F293DA5D3422438B898BAC711427A82A9C69D6E9@NDMSSCC06.ndc.nasa.gov>
Message-ID: <585973.91414.qm@web51109.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks everyone!
 
Jim

--- On Thu, 8/20/09, Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ED10) <phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov>
wrote:


From: Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ED10) <phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
To: "'barterdude at comcast.net'" <barterdude at comcast.net>,
"'gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com'" <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>,
"'datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net'" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, August 20, 2009, 9:33 PM


With our testing, royal purple is good oil



----- Original Message -----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: 'Jim Gammon' <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>; 'Datsun roadster'
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu Aug 20 20:20:49 2009
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil

Hey Jim -

I have been running Royal Purple 20-50w in my 2000 with great success.  Runs
quick, stays cool and rev's quicker.

Gary Lasater
founding member www.wycroc.org
'63 SPL310-300161C
'63 SPL310-300289B
'64 SPL310-001289
'68 SRL311-11977
'69 SRL311-12536
'70 SPL311-28169

This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you.

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail




-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gammon
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:23 PM
To: Datsun roadster
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil

Hi all

Simple question. I completely rebuilt my 2k engine, hot tank up.

I now have about 250 miles on her, and I'm thinking of using synthetic when
I
change the oil.

What say? Seems logical to me to use either blend of full synthetic, but
perhaps a thicker one.

Jim
NJ
2k 69
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.58/2309 - Release Date: 08/20/09
06:05:00
You are subscribed as phillip.b.hall at nasa.gov

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From barterdude at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 20:37:04 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 20:37:04 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] gauge voltage regulator
Message-ID: <11B166ECBA4546C785975FB8206F089F@XPLaptop>

Anyone know of an alternative (Nissan part) that works as the gauge voltage
regulator or anyone with a working used one they would sell.  Need for 1968
2000.  

 

Gary Lasater

founding member www.wycroc.org

'63 SPL310-300161C

'63 SPL310-300289B

'64 SPL310-001289

'68 SRL311-11977

'69 SRL311-12536

'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

 

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 20 20:38:09 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:38:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
In-Reply-To: <ABD1197543C74C369AC857A3CF82F7E0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <426392.37210.qm@web51106.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If I recall correctly, way back when Mobil 1 first came out they ran a Lincoln
for 100,000 miles, and never changed the oil, just the filter and added a bit.
When they tore down the engine, it was within new engine tolerances.
 
Jim

--- On Thu, 8/20/09, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil
To: "Jim Gammon" <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>
Date: Thursday, August 20, 2009, 10:26 PM


jim -

i use a semi synthetic made by schaeffer oil.  you have to get it from a
distributor, and there is a 10? case minimum order, so we usually get together
on it.

it contains molybdmmmmmm, which functions the same as zinc, and works very
well.  i use it in my regular beasts as well, and have gone as much as 12k
miles without changing, although that's probably not a good idea.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/

btw - if you don't know the difference between synthetic and semi synthetic,
let me know.


----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gammon" <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>
To: "Datsun roadster" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 6:23 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun Oil


> Hi all
>
> Simple question. I completely rebuilt my 2k engine, hot tank up.
>
> I now have about 250 miles on her, and I'm thinking of using synthetic when
I
> change the oil.
>
> What say? Seems logical to me to use either blend of full synthetic, but
> perhaps a thicker one.
>
> Jim
> NJ
> 2k 69
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 20 21:19:22 2009
From: vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com (Vince Strazzabosco)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 20:19:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <368557.43235.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful breaking loose with wrenches
and sockets that fit well, patience, patience, patience.

vince

--- On Thu,
8/20/09, barterdude <barterdude at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: barterdude
<barterdude at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for
breaking rust loose
> To: "'Datsun roadster'"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, August 20, 2009, 9:24 PM
>
I am tackling restoration of a 1964
> Fairlady I got out of Pennsylvania and
>
virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is
> RUSTED big time.
>
Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get
> this detached
>
without having to bust everything in half?
> 
>  
> 
> Suggestion appreciated.
> 
>  
> 
> Gary Lasater
> 
> founding member www.wycroc.org
> 
> '63
SPL310-300161C
> 
> '63 SPL310-300289B
> 
> '64 SPL310-001289
> 
> '68
SRL311-11977
> 
> '69 SRL311-12536
> 
> '70 SPL311-28169
> 
>  This message is
only intended for the use of the
> individual or entity to
> which it is
addressed and may contain information that is
> privileged,
> confidential and
exempt from disclosure.  If the read
> of this message is not
> the intended
recipient, or an employee or agent responsible
> for delivering
> the message
to the intended recipient, you are hereby
> notified that any
> dissemination,
distribution, or copying of this
> communication is strictly
> prohibited.  If
you have received this communication
> in error, please notify
> us by
telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return
> message, and
> delete
or destroy all copies of this communication. 
> Thank you. 
> 
> 17009 Carr
Ave. == Parker CO 80134
> 
>  
> 
> P Please consider the environment before
printing this
> e-mail
> ________________________________________
> Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Thu Aug 20 22:18:47 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 21:18:47 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <368557.43235.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090821001847.2M6EU.2082004.root@mp15>

Hey Vince, welll put and I say: AMEN BROTHER!!

I am at the end of stripping a 69 2000 rust bucket. 

All I can add is this:  Be prepared to replace every single nut and bolt you cannot get apart easily. If it is rusted...the metal has expanded...and will no longer be usable. 

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

---- Vince Strazzabosco <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful breaking loose with wrenches
and sockets that fit well, patience, patience, patience.

vince

From granvillecomputing at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 21 00:14:04 2009
From: granvillecomputing at hotmail.com (Peter Harrison)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 23:14:04 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
References: <20090821001847.2M6EU.2082004.root@mp15>
Message-ID: <BAY106-DAV47C979CB375FF54D68032DFFC0@phx.gbl>

One extra thing - once you have 'lubed' the offending nut/bolt - tightening 
it just a bit - say 1/2 a flat will break the rust and allow extraction - 
this was shown to me by a guy that restores classic cars and it works nearly 
every time

Peter (Eliza)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "Vince Strazzabosco" <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com>; 
<barterdude at comcast.net>; "'Datsun roadster'" 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose


> Hey Vince, welll put and I say: AMEN BROTHER!!
>
> I am at the end of stripping a 69 2000 rust bucket.
>
> All I can add is this:  Be prepared to replace every single nut and bolt 
> you cannot get apart easily. If it is rusted...the metal has 
> expanded...and will no longer be usable.
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
>
> ---- Vince Strazzabosco <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful breaking loose with 
> wrenches
> and sockets that fit well, patience, patience, patience.
>
> vince
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as granvillecomputing at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From boakes at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 04:38:54 2009
From: boakes at gmail.com (Bill Oakes)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 05:38:54 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>
References: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <F2FEB9B8-1A89-4888-9A94-63A68600B3DE@gmail.com>

What everyone else said, and soaking overnight. I recent broke free  
rear drums after 4 nights in a row of kroil, then finally one  
day....pop!

On Aug 20, 2009, at 9:24 PM, "barterdude" <barterdude at comcast.net>  
wrote:

> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of  
> Pennsylvania and
> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big  
> time.
> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this  
> detached
> without having to bust everything in half?
>
>
>
> Suggestion appreciated.
>
>
>
> Gary Lasater
>
> founding member www.wycroc.org
>
> '63 SPL310-300161C
>
> '63 SPL310-300289B
>
> '64 SPL310-001289
>
> '68 SRL311-11977
>
> '69 SRL311-12536
>
> '70 SPL311-28169
>
> This message is only intended for the use of the individual or  
> entity to
> which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
> confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this  
> message is not
> the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for  
> delivering
> the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that  
> any
> dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is  
> strictly
> prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error,  
> please notify
> us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message,  
> and
> delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you.
>
> 17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134
>
>
>
> P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as boakes at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Fri Aug 21 06:43:15 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 08:43:15 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
Message-ID: <bc8.56d42d19.37bff063@aol.com>

A 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone works great and is cheap. I have a spray
bottle of it in the shop. I have seen a couple of tests where it works better
than any commercial product.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 8/20/2009 9:26:31 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tputland at charter.net writes:

Hey  Vince, welll put and I say: AMEN BROTHER!!

I am at the end of stripping  a 69 2000 rust bucket.

All I can add is this:  Be prepared to  replace every single nut and bolt
you cannot get apart easily. If it is  rusted...the metal has expanded...and
will no longer be usable.

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always  learning

---- Vince Strazzabosco <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com> wrote:

=============
Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful  breaking loose with wrenches
and sockets that fit well, patience, patience,  patience.

vince
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
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://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 21 08:19:18 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 09:19:18 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
References: <20090821001847.2M6EU.2082004.root@mp15>
Message-ID: <009301ca226a$5ef93ab0$6400a8c0@LAP120>

I guess I'll add my 2 cents:

If you have them, use 6 point box end wrenches or 6 point sockets. They get
a better grip on the hexes with less tendency to "round-off" them off..

Mike Hudson  '67 - Stroker / 5-Speed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "Vince Strazzabosco" <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com>;
<barterdude at comcast.net>; "'Datsun roadster'"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose


> Hey Vince, welll put and I say: AMEN BROTHER!!
>
> I am at the end of stripping a 69 2000 rust bucket.
>
> All I can add is this:  Be prepared to replace every single nut and bolt
you cannot get apart easily. If it is rusted...the metal has expanded...and
will no longer be usable.
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
>
> ---- Vince Strazzabosco <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful breaking loose with
wrenches
> and sockets that fit well, patience, patience, patience.
>
> vince

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 21 14:51:32 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:51:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Car won't start after a minute running update
Message-ID: <901200.34883.qm@web58603.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Well well well,

Here's a new one for me. I replaced all the distributor parts, nope not that. Checked carbs seemed fine. Took off air cleaner and with the car running tried moving each choke/power piston. One was stuck. Figured it was from old gas. Cleaned it and it moved freely. Fired the engine and it stuck. Then decided to swap choke/power pistons and the other carb the piston stuck. I examined each piston and they ARE different. I looked at my 1969 and 1970 1600 and one of the 1966 pistons were like the 69/70. There is a hole in the bottom of the piston but in different spots. For an experiment I put a small piece of gas resistant tubing where the is a actuator for the piston to hold it up so it(piston) does stick from the vacuum. starts instantly every time. Hows that for a weird one. Anyone have or know where I could get the correct piston? 1966 1600 engine with 610A carbs. Thanks

From roadster at astound.net  Fri Aug 21 17:48:29 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 16:48:29 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>
References: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <056EE839-1838-4053-944D-455E2F581E1D@astound.net>

As Vince said, use patience.

But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry  
once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front- 
end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries  
and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll  
need new nuts and bolts.

Fred - So.SF
On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:

> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of  
> Pennsylvania and
> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big  
> time.
> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this  
> detached
> without having to bust everything in half?
>
>
>
> Suggestion appreciated.
>
>
>
> Gary Lasater
>
> founding member www.wycroc.org

From vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 21 17:58:48 2009
From: vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com (Vince Strazzabosco)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 16:58:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <bc8.56d42d19.37bff063@aol.com>
Message-ID: <277721.40059.qm@web33508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I heard about this too and have been meaning to try some.  

One other thing I
didn't mention is being able to use a hammer and punch, etc on the flats of
the stuck bolt to hit it straight on and let the shock break the bond.  Again,
using plenty of penetrating whatever again and again.  For some bolts, it
helps to scrape or clean the grime or loose rust away to allow better
penetration.

vince

--- On Fri, 8/21/09, Keith0alan at aol.com
<Keith0alan at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Keith0alan at aol.com <Keith0alan at aol.com>
>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
> To:
tputland at charter.net, vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com, barterdude at comcast.net,
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, August 21, 2009, 7:43 AM
> 
>
>  
>  
> 
> 
> A 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone works great and is
> cheap. I
have a spray 
> bottle of it in the shop. I have seen a couple of tests
>
where it works better 
> than any commercial product. 
> B 
> keith 
>
williams
> ccfcccs
> http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org
> 
> b
If 
> Not Us,
Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b
 
> B 
> 
> In a message dated 8/20/2009
9:26:31 P.M. Pacific
> Daylight Time, 
> tputland at charter.net writes:
> Hey 
>
Vince, welll put and I say: AMEN BROTHER!!
> 
> I am at the end of stripping
>   a 69 2000 rust bucket. 
> 
> All I can add is this:B  Be prepared to 
>
replace every single nut and bolt you cannot get apart
> easily. If it is 
>
rusted...the metal has expanded...and will no longer be
> usable. 
>   
> 
>
Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always 
>
learning
> 
> ---- Vince Strazzabosco <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com>
> wrote: 
>
> 
> =============
> Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful 
>
breaking loose with wrenches
> and sockets that fit well, patience, patience,
>   patience.
> 
> vince
> ________________________________________
> Support
>   Team.NetB  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as 
>
keith0alan at aol.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing 
>   list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Fri Aug 21 18:20:33 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (Charles Breault)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:20:33 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <277721.40059.qm@web33508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <bc8.56d42d19.37bff063@aol.com>
	<277721.40059.qm@web33508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <39358E92CE1C48F490F88340A44A31EA@Home>

"better penetration" I'm not saying anything.
Charlie B.

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Vince
Strazzabosco
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 7:59 PM
To: tputland at charter.net; barterdude at comcast.net;
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; Keith0alan at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose

I heard about this too and have been meaning to try some.

One other thing I
didn't mention is being able to use a hammer and punch, etc on the flats of
the stuck bolt to hit it straight on and let the shock break the bond.
Again,
using plenty of penetrating whatever again and again.  For some bolts, it
helps to scrape or clean the grime or loose rust away to allow better
penetration.

vince

--- On Fri, 8/21/09, Keith0alan at aol.com
<Keith0alan at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Keith0alan at aol.com <Keith0alan at aol.com>
>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
> To:
tputland at charter.net, vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com, barterdude at comcast.net,
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, August 21, 2009, 7:43 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> A 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone works great and is
> cheap. I
have a spray
> bottle of it in the shop. I have seen a couple of tests
>
where it works better
> than any commercial product.
> B
> keith
>
williams
> ccfcccs
> http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org
>
> bIf
> Not Us,
Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b
> B
>
> In a message dated 8/20/2009
9:26:31 P.M. Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> tputland at charter.net writes:
> Hey
>
Vince, welll put and I say: AMEN BROTHER!!
>
> I am at the end of stripping
>   a 69 2000 rust bucket.
>
> All I can add is this:B  Be prepared to
>
replace every single nut and bolt you cannot get apart
> easily. If it is
>
rusted...the metal has expanded...and will no longer be
> usable.
>
>
>
Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always
>
learning
>
> ---- Vince Strazzabosco <vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> =============
> Kroil, PB Blaster, propane torch heat, careful
>
breaking loose with wrenches
> and sockets that fit well, patience, patience,
>   patience.
>
> vince
> ________________________________________
> Support
>   Team.NetB  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as
>
keith0alan at aol.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing
>   list
>
>
http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as vze2fhba at verizon.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From fairlady_67 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 21 21:15:33 2009
From: fairlady_67 at hotmail.com (Chris Davies)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Wind Deflectors
Message-ID: <SNT106-W55B29530A5F5BF9793A0959DFB0@phx.gbl>

Hi.

   I've decided to come out of lurk mode and ask a question to my fellow
Roadsterites. Since finishing my restoration last year I drive the car as much
as possible from spring till fall. The only problem is that I live in northern
B.C. and that means driving in 50-70 degree temperatures a lot of the time. Of
course there isn't any point in driving a sports car with the top up.

   This brings me to the question of some kind of air deflector. I don't like
all that cold air blowing over the windshield and coming back to hit me in the
back of my neck. My wife won't even ride in the car because of this. And that
it messes up her hair. My car is a 67.5 but didn't come with any sun visors or
headrests. A buddy told me that the visors on his old vette deflected the air
quite well. Would this help at all on the Datsun? Another thought that I had
was to build a roll bar for the car and install a piece of lexan or something
between the two uprights and from the floor to the top of the bar. Anyone out
there do anything like this? A fellow in town with a Miata built something
along these lines out of wood with kind of mesh screen in the centre. He seems
to like it. I guess a set of Miata seats may help as they are high enough to
block the wind at your neck.

   I see that a lot of the new sports cars have things that install behind or
between the seats to stop all the wind. Some even appear to have power windows
that go up between the seats. Any and all thoughts and ideas would be greatly
appreciated. Pictures of what you have would also be great. I don't want to go
to all the trouble of building a roll bar and deflector if it won't work.



Thanks in advance

Chris Davies

Kitimat B.C.

_________________________________________________________________
Stay on top of things, check email from other accounts!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9671355

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 21 21:55:31 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 03:55:31 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] Wind Deflectors
In-Reply-To: <SNT106-W55B29530A5F5BF9793A0959DFB0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT106-W55B29530A5F5BF9793A0959DFB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W262007BBCEF1F1A0C90154B5FB0@phx.gbl>

I think I've posted this before, it is a deflector I saw at Laguna Seca. I
also have a pic of  a more traditional plexiglass rig.Front
http://community.webshots.com/photo/553311811/2453408140094396073rsyZvD
Back
http://community.webshots.com/photo/553311811/2984576710094396073wfJgHb
http://community.webshots.com/photo/553311811/2489187690094396073MElzmw


Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20



> From: fairlady_67 at hotmail.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:15:33 -0700
> Subject: [Roadsters] Wind Deflectors
>
> Hi.
>
>    I've decided to come out of lurk mode and ask a question to my fellow
> Roadsterites. Since finishing my restoration last year I drive the car as
much
> as possible from spring till fall. The only problem is that I live in
northern
> B.C. and that means driving in 50-70 degree temperatures a lot of the time.
Of
> course there isn't any point in driving a sports car with the top up.
>
>    This brings me to the question of some kind of air deflector. I don't
like
> all that cold air blowing over the windshield and coming back to hit me in
the
> back of my neck. My wife won't even ride in the car because of this. And
that
> it messes up her hair. My car is a 67.5 but didn't come with any sun visors
or
> headrests. A buddy told me that the visors on his old vette deflected the
air
> quite well. Would this help at all on the Datsun? Another thought that I
had
> was to build a roll bar for the car and install a piece of lexan or
something
> between the two uprights and from the floor to the top of the bar. Anyone
out
> there do anything like this? A fellow in town with a Miata built something
> along these lines out of wood with kind of mesh screen in the centre. He
seems
> to like it. I guess a set of Miata seats may help as they are high enough
to
> block the wind at your neck.
>
>    I see that a lot of the new sports cars have things that install behind
or
> between the seats to stop all the wind. Some even appear to have power
windows
> that go up between the seats. Any and all thoughts and ideas would be
greatly
> appreciated. Pictures of what you have would also be great. I don't want to
go
> to all the trouble of building a roll bar and deflector if it won't work.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Chris Davies
>
> Kitimat B.C.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Stay on top of things, check email from other accounts!
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9671355
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as alvingogi at hotmail.com
>
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>
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>
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From geegc at aol.com  Fri Aug 21 23:53:14 2009
From: geegc at aol.com (geegc at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 01:53:14 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Hood release cables
Message-ID: <8CBF103F90F230E-134C-F366@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

two questions -- 

Do you have to take the cable out of the sheaf to grease it up or is there an easier way?

Someone a while ago (years) suggested a way to put in a back up hood release just in case the regular release fails (as mine almost did today).? Anyone remember what it was?

Thanks

Gary C (66 1600)

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Sat Aug 22 00:19:52 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 23:19:52 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Hood release cables
References: <8CBF103F90F230E-134C-F366@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4299C79C576A4BAF820E43CE245626FB@Daryl>

Nice writeup, with pictures, courtesy of Dave Kaplan.......on 311s.org.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.BackupHoodRelease


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <geegc at aol.com>

> Someone a while ago (years) suggested a way to put in a back up hood 
> release just in case the regular release fails (as mine almost did 
> today).? Anyone remember what it was?
>
> Thanks
>
> Gary C (66 1600)

From Keith0alan at aol.com  Sat Aug 22 09:13:46 2009
From: Keith0alan at aol.com (Keith0alan at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:13:46 EDT
Subject: [Roadsters] Car won't start after a minute running update
Message-ID: <cbc.471a3eed.37c1652a@aol.com>

There are two pistons. One for the carbs with the guide pin on the side and
 one for the carbs with the guide pin on the front. You may have mismatched
carbs  on the car. Remove the domes and pistons and check the carbs to see
where the  guide pins are. The little rubber bumper on the face of the pisto
n should rest  on the high area where the nozzle comes through. If it is
toward the front or  back then you have the wrong piston.

If after sorting through your carbs you find you have an incorrect one I do
 have some extras.

keith  williams
ccfcccs
_http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org_
(http://www.clarkcountyferalcats.org/)

bIf  Not Us, Then Who? If Not Now, Then When?b


In a message dated 8/21/2009 1:55:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dboerst at yahoo.com writes:

Well  well well,

Here's a new one for me. I replaced all the distributor  parts, nope not
that. Checked carbs seemed fine. Took off air cleaner and with  the car
running tried moving each choke/power piston. One was stuck. Figured  it was
from
old gas. Cleaned it and it moved freely. Fired the engine and it  stuck.
Then decided to swap choke/power pistons and the other carb the piston  stuck.
I examined each piston and they ARE different. I looked at my 1969 and  1970
1600 and one of the 1966 pistons were like the 69/70. There is a hole in
the bottom of the piston but in different spots. For an experiment I put a
small piece of gas resistant tubing where the is a actuator for the piston to
 hold it up so it(piston) does stick from the vacuum. starts instantly
every  time. Hows that for a weird one. Anyone have or know where I could get
the  correct piston? 1966 1600 engine with 610A carbs.  Thanks
You are subscribed as  keith0alan at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing  list

http://www.team.net/archive

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From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug 22 11:57:53 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 10:57:53 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
Message-ID: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>

I have tail lights and turn signal lights, but no brake lights. The turn signals are slow but do work.

The rear harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and wires all look good. I have tried two different brake pedal switches (one was new and both tested good) and neither has worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn no longer works as well)

Help!!!

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 22 12:16:49 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:16:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 344
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1250964002.16067.datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <14301.18184.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

--- On Sat, 8/22/09, datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> From:
datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
<datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Datsun-roadsters Digest,
Vol 3, Issue 344
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday,
August 22, 2009, 12:00 PM
> Send Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> submissions
to
>     datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via
the World Wide Web, visit
>    
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> or, via email, send
a message with subject or body 'help'
> to
>    
datsun-roadsters-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing
the list at
>     datsun-roadsters-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying,
please edit your Subject line so it is more
> specific
> than "Re: Contents of
Datsun-roadsters digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. No brake lights
(Tim)
> 
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>
Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 10:57:53 -0700
> From: Tim
<tputland at charter.net>
> Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
> To:
"datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net"
>     <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
>
Message-ID: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root at mp14>
> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> I have tail lights and turn signal lights, but
no brake
> lights. The turn signals are slow but do work.
> 
> The rear
harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and
> wires all look good. I
have tried two different brake pedal
> switches (one was new and both tested
good) and neither has
> worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn no longer
works as
> well)
> 
> Help!!!
> 
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
>
Still clueless but always learning
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
>
_______________________________________________
> Datsun-roadsters mailing
list
> Datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> 
> 
> End of
Datsun-roadsters Digest, Vol 3, Issue 344
>
************************************************

From gsglasgow at comcast.net  Sat Aug 22 12:22:10 2009
From: gsglasgow at comcast.net (Gordon Glasgow)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:22:10 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
In-Reply-To: <056EE839-1838-4053-944D-455E2F581E1D@astound.net>
References: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop>
	<056EE839-1838-4053-944D-455E2F581E1D@astound.net>
Message-ID: <000b01ca2355$776e7380$664b5a80$@net>

If you have reverse-twist drill bits, sometimes just trying to drill the
bolt head with one of these will generate enough torque/heat to break the
bolt loose.

Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:48 PM
To: Datsun roadster
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose

As Vince said, use patience.

But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry  
once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front- 
end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries  
and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll  
need new nuts and bolts.

Fred - So.SF
On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:

> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of  
> Pennsylvania and
> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big  
> time.
> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this  
> detached
> without having to bust everything in half?
>
>
>
> Suggestion appreciated.
>
>
>
> Gary Lasater
>
> founding member www.wycroc.org
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug 22 12:32:38 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:32:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
Message-ID: <20090822143238.0LNNO.3896785.root@mp14>

I want to switch to the filler neck from my 69 part car so I can use one of my locking chrome gas caps (these don't stay on the filler neck from a 70--don't ask me how I know...).

The neck I have has a fair amount of rust on the inside. What, if anything, should I do about the rust? Should I clean it out as best I can and leave it? Or is there something, like POR15, that I could use to treat the inside of the neck? Or will anything I try to treat with eventually end up in the gas tank?

TIA

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug 22 12:54:15 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:54:15 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
In-Reply-To: <249103EA0D954FAEB3EC0DB8C4CED6B4@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <20090822145415.I13KJ.3897494.root@mp14>

I have an organic rust remover that works great. My concern is the rust re-appearing. Whould I not worry about that, or should I treat with some thing to inhibit and then have to worry about that stuff eventually getting lose and into the tank...
--


Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

---- oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 

=============
if the neck is a separate part you can soak it with this stuff.  will remove 
all rust.

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/datsun/DSCN3628.JPG

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:32 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck


>I want to switch to the filler neck from my 69 part car so I can use one of 
>my locking chrome gas caps (these don't stay on the filler neck from a 
>70--don't ask me how I know...).
>
> The neck I have has a fair amount of rust on the inside. What, if 
> anything, should I do about the rust? Should I clean it out as best I can 
> and leave it? Or is there something, like POR15, that I could use to treat 
> the inside of the neck? Or will anything I try to treat with eventually 
> end up in the gas tank?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Sat Aug 22 13:10:14 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:10:14 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
References: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <8CBF1735061D660-1654-11A5B@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>

 Check to see if your alternator is charging the battery. If it is not then the battery gets too low to run things like turn signals etc. The turn signals will run faster with a fully charged battery then a low one. If it is low enough they don't work at all. I know because I have been dealing with an alt issue lately, and that has been my experience.
?Of course it could be something else, but this one thing to check.

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2009 10:57 am
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights










I have tail lights and turn signal lights, but no brake lights. The turn signals 
are slow but do work.

The rear harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and wires all look good. 
I have tried two different brake pedal switches (one was new and both tested 
good) and neither has worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn no longer works 
as well)

Help!!!

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at aim.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug 22 13:54:37 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 12:54:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <20090822155437.D0MY6.3899294.root@mp14>

I am pretty sure I have found the correct connector and it seems to be in great shape especially considering how rough my 2000 is elsewhere. 

I still don't have lights or horn. 

How does one go about cleaning one of these 8 pin connectors? I may as well do this since the seat and steering wheel are out of the car. 

Tim

From aultgc at att.net  Sat Aug 22 14:06:23 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:06:23 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
References: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop><056EE839-1838-4053-944D-455E2F581E1D@astound.net>
	<000b01ca2355$776e7380$664b5a80$@net>
Message-ID: <DD527354A00943AFBEF787346E6BB946@gaxp1>

Another trick which can work is vibration -- an air hammer using an 
appropriate diameter flat tip.  Tough to keep the tool on the bolt head, but 
sometimes it's enough.

Can'y say enough about the patience recommendations:  iron oxide is a lot 
harder than the base metal, so once the fastener starts to move, carefully 
working it in a little an dout a little, combined with additional 
penetrating oil or whatever penetrant you're using, is a key consideration.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
To: "'Fred Katz'" <roadster at astound.net>; "'Datsun roadster'" 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose


> If you have reverse-twist drill bits, sometimes just trying to drill the
> bolt head with one of these will generate enough torque/heat to break the
> bolt loose.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz
> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:48 PM
> To: Datsun roadster
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
>
> As Vince said, use patience.
>
> But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry
> once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front-
> end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries
> and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll
> need new nuts and bolts.
>
> Fred - So.SF
> On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:
>
>> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of
>> Pennsylvania and
>> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big
>> time.
>> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this
>> detached
>> without having to bust everything in half?
>>
>>
>>
>> Suggestion appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Lasater
>>
>> founding member www.wycroc.org
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 22 14:10:30 2009
From: vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com (Vince Strazzabosco)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 13:10:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822155437.D0MY6.3899294.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <269943.70009.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Don't laugh...

I've used a packet of Taco Bell mild taco sauce squirted into
the connector and let sit for a day to remove some hard corrosion.  Then once
it was cleaned out and dry, I used an emery board (nail) file cut to fit into
the connector to further clean the contacts.

vince



--- On Sat, 8/22/09,
Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] No brake lights
> To: "datsun-roadsters:
autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 22,
2009, 2:54 PM
> I am pretty sure I have found the
> correct connector and it
seems to be in great shape
> especially considering how rough my 2000 is
elsewhere. 
> 
> I still don't have lights or horn. 
> 
> How does one go
about cleaning one of these 8 pin
> connectors? I may as well do this since
the seat and
> steering wheel are out of the car. 
> 
> Tim
>
________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
vstrazzabosco at yahoo.com
> 
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From reblues at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 14:47:59 2009
From: reblues at gmail.com (Richard Brown)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 16:47:59 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
References: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <C9422ADA3ACC4B0EB8020D3916F3A01B@ACER4230>

On the 69 the same fuse works the brake lights and the horn.  I would check 
that you have power at the fuse box.  Bottom left fuse on the 69.

Richard Brown

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:57 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights


>I have tail lights and turn signal lights, but no brake lights. The turn 
>signals are slow but do work.
>
> The rear harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and wires all look 
> good. I have tried two different brake pedal switches (one was new and 
> both tested good) and neither has worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn 
> no longer works as well)
>
> Help!!!
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as reblues at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From edmitche at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 17:26:14 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 17:26:14 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] repost request
Message-ID: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>

Hi All,

 

I'm looking for a Window Sales Sticker for a Datsun roadster  - 60's era

 

If it's just a picture.or some sort of visual.

 

I'd like to reproduce and aged one for my car.1967.5 Roadster 1600

 

But I need something to go by

 

I pitched this out earlier...and got a response from someone who thought
they had one.but never got a further response

 

Found this on the web. (gotta luv google)
http://www.frontiernet.net/~asg/stick_samp/samples.htm  

 

But I want to make this.so I can get it as authentic as possible.(and only
You and I will know I'm a sticker fraud)  : )

 

But I'm looking for true authenticity.and would like a vintage look I can
create myself.maybe drop in a few Japanese fonts   : )  wrinkle it up a
bit.pour some coffee on it to age it.etc

 

I'm hoping to go for my first entered show in October -
http://www.zianet.com/rtrd/index.htm

 

 

Any ideas or examples would be greatly appreciated

 

Oh.Got dead betty back up and running after the Coil Explosion.and got her
up to 110mph.totally clenched and puckered.but she did it - woo hoo  : )

 

 

 

Thanks all

 

Ed Mitchell

Las Cruces, NM

1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761

 

http://www.ziaroc.com/   <--8 member strong  WOOT!  : )

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG    <--Dead Betty  : )  photo
updates coming soon

From cookefam314 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 17:34:00 2009
From: cookefam314 at gmail.com (Dave Cooke)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 18:34:00 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] repost request
In-Reply-To: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
References: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <83a7d2520908221634t6cb6f71dl60b5fcc7d20af911@mail.gmail.com>

Ed, Here's a link to the thread on this topic on the 311s website. I got a
copy of one from a guy named Bucky. He reproduced it nicely from an old
faded original. Check out the thread for his info...
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10281

-Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 6:26 PM, Ed Mitchell <edmitche at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a Window Sales Sticker for a Datsun roadster  - 60's era
>
>
>
> If it's just a picture.or some sort of visual.
>
>
>
> I'd like to reproduce and aged one for my car.1967.5 Roadster 1600
>
>
>
> But I need something to go by
>
>
>
> I pitched this out earlier...and got a response from someone who thought
> they had one.but never got a further response
>
>
>
> Found this on the web. (gotta luv google)
> http://www.frontiernet.net/~asg/stick_samp/samples.htm
>
>
>
> But I want to make this.so I can get it as authentic as possible.(and only
> You and I will know I'm a sticker fraud)  : )
>
>
>
> But I'm looking for true authenticity.and would like a vintage look I can
> create myself.maybe drop in a few Japanese fonts   : )  wrinkle it up a
> bit.pour some coffee on it to age it.etc
>
>
>
> I'm hoping to go for my first entered show in October -
> http://www.zianet.com/rtrd/index.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Any ideas or examples would be greatly appreciated
>
>
>
> Oh.Got dead betty back up and running after the Coil Explosion.and got her
> up to 110mph.totally clenched and puckered.but she did it - woo hoo  : )
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks all
>
>
>
> Ed Mitchell
>
> Las Cruces, NM
>
> 1967.5 Datsun Roadster 1600 - SPL311-12761
>
>
>
> http://www.ziaroc.com/   <--8 member strong  WOOT!  : )
>
>
>
> http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG    <--Dead Betty  : )
>  photo
> updates coming soon
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as cookefam314 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Dave Cooke
Midwest Roadsters

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Sat Aug 22 19:09:41 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 20:09:41 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
In-Reply-To: <20090822145415.I13KJ.3897494.root@mp14>
References: <20090822145415.I13KJ.3897494.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <4A9096D5.4080907@mail.utexas.edu>

You might consider taking it to a plating shop and see what they would 
charge you to plate it with something non-rusting, such as galvanizing, 
cad plating, or the like.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Tim, On 8/22/2009 1:54 PM:
> I have an organic rust remover that works great. My concern is the rust re-appearing. Whould I not worry about that, or should I treat with some thing to inhibit and then have to worry about that stuff eventually getting lose and into the tank...
> --
>
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
>
> ---- oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
>
> =============
> if the neck is a separate part you can soak it with this stuff.  will remove 
> all rust.
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/datsun/DSCN3628.JPG
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
> To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:32 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
>
>
>   
>> I want to switch to the filler neck from my 69 part car so I can use one of 
>> my locking chrome gas caps (these don't stay on the filler neck from a 
>> 70--don't ask me how I know...).
>>
>> The neck I have has a fair amount of rust on the inside. What, if 
>> anything, should I do about the rust? Should I clean it out as best I can 
>> and leave it? Or is there something, like POR15, that I could use to treat 
>> the inside of the neck? Or will anything I try to treat with eventually 
>> end up in the gas tank?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Tim
>> Belleville, WI.
>> '70 SPL AND SRL
>> Still clueless but always learning
>> ________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 
>>     
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Sat Aug 22 19:25:39 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 20:25:39 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
References: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <4A909A93.5010404@mail.utexas.edu>

Tim,

I'd use a meter to verify that the tail lights are really grounded. Turn 
on the tail lights and check the voltage on the ground wire at the tail 
lights. It should be well less than one volt. If that is OK, short out 
the turn signal flasher so that it doesn't flash (short the 2 pins 
together), turn on the turn signals for one side and check the voltage 
at the bulbs. It should be close to battery voltage. Check the other side.

With the engine running the battery voltage should be about 13.6 volts. 
With the engine off, it may be as low as 11 volts, but will probably be 
around 12 volts.

Someone already mentioned the fuse box as a possibility. To check that, 
connect a volt meter to the input of the brake light switch. Step on the 
brakes and see what the voltage reads. It should be close to battery 
voltage. If it is good, try the output of the switch. It should read the 
same. Next check the voltage at the brake light bulbs. It should be close.

There are various connectors hidden in our cars that generally don't 
give problems but can. It may me a connector problem, but not always.

I am not familiar with the high windshield cars, but do know electrics 
quite well and can help you.

Whatever - if any- of these readings are out of whack, please let me 
know and I can walk you through the next level of troubleshooting.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Tim, On 8/22/2009 12:57 PM:
> I have tail lights and turn signal lights, but no brake lights. The turn signals are slow but do work.
>
> The rear harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and wires all look good. I have tried two different brake pedal switches (one was new and both tested good) and neither has worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn no longer works as well)
>
> Help!!!
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Aug 22 20:15:13 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 19:15:13 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] repost request--C & P!!
In-Reply-To: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <20090822221513.ME40V.3880241.root@mp16>

"clenched and puckered"

what else can you say? what else is there? maybe needles in the feet?

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 22 20:20:34 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 21:20:34 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
References: <20090822145415.I13KJ.3897494.root@mp14>
	<4A9096D5.4080907@mail.utexas.edu>
Message-ID: <077EFA7493104D7382F4BCEA21B9F32B@ranteer.local>

ceramic coating???

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pat Horne" <pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu>
To: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
Cc: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] gas filler neck


> You might consider taking it to a plating shop and see what they would 
> charge you to plate it with something non-rusting, such as galvanizing, 
> cad plating, or the like.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Thusly spake Tim, On 8/22/2009 1:54 PM:
>> I have an organic rust remover that works great. My concern is the rust 
>> re-appearing. Whould I not worry about that, or should I treat with some 
>> thing to inhibit and then have to worry about that stuff eventually 
>> getting lose and into the tank...
>> --

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Sat Aug 22 23:09:39 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 01:09:39 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822155437.D0MY6.3899294.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <8CBF1C70D001CCC-1080-3481@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com>

 Tim,
You'd be amazed at how corroded those connectors can be. Since eventually you will likely get around to cleaning them all, I'd recommend getting some connectors and some replacement pins & their connectors because if the ones in your car are badly corroded or the wire is barely hanging on, or you break one you have to replace them anyway. Dean has a kit, also vintageconnections.com has replacement male and female connectors and the white plastic connectors
Otherwise you can get a tiny jewelers screwdriver , and with the battery disconnected, put it into the pin side of the connector and press the little tab down flat, then push on the pin (do not pull on the wire!) and it should slide out. it takes some practice. Then I used a Dremel with a small wire brush to clean up the tab. Do one and put it back so you don't get them mixed up. Dielectric grease on the pins helps protect them.
I tried? electric contact spray first on the electrical connectors but it only does half the job if the pin is corroded where you can't see it.
I'd also clean the metal horn contact under the steering wheel, as well as the tabs on each horn. 
Then there is the horn relay, I cleaned the tabs and underneath as well where there is metal.
That should keep you busy for awhile LOL
Harbor Freight has those little wire brushes for the Dremel.

Linda



 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2009 12:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] No brake lights










I am pretty sure I have found the correct connector and it seems to be in great 
shape especially considering how rough my 2000 is elsewhere. 

I still don't have lights or horn. 

How does one go about cleaning one of these 8 pin connectors? I may as well do 
this since the seat and steering wheel are out of the car. 

Tim
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gboone70 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 22 23:50:22 2009
From: gboone70 at yahoo.com (Gary Boone)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 22:50:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <8CBF1C70D001CCC-1080-3481@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBF1C70D001CCC-1080-3481@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <684065.88025.qm@web36303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I haven't followed every detail of this thread but a very common problem with no brake lights is a bad brake light switch or the switch position needs adjustment relative to the brake pedal lever position.  It's position can be adjusted with the 2 nuts on the threaded shaft.  Check the continuity of the switch when you depress the brake pedal.  
Gary  




________________________________
From: "ljordan704 at aim.com" <ljordan704 at aim.com>
To: tputland at charter.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 11:09:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] No brake lights

Tim,
You'd be amazed at how corroded those connectors can be. Since eventually you will likely get around to cleaning them all, I'd recommend getting some connectors and some replacement pins & their connectors because if the ones in your car are badly corroded or the wire is barely hanging on, or you break one you have to replace them anyway. Dean has a kit, also vintageconnections.com has replacement male and female connectors and the white plastic connectors
Otherwise you can get a tiny jewelers screwdriver , and with the battery disconnected, put it into the pin side of the connector and press the little tab down flat, then push on the pin (do not pull on the wire!) and it should slide out. it takes some practice. Then I used a Dremel with a small wire brush to clean up the tab. Do one and put it back so you don't get them mixed up. Dielectric grease on the pins helps protect them.
I tried? electric contact spray first on the electrical connectors but it only does half the job if the pin is corroded where you can't see it.
I'd also clean the metal horn contact under the steering wheel, as well as the tabs on each horn. 
Then there is the horn relay, I cleaned the tabs and underneath as well where there is metal.
That should keep you busy for awhile LOL
Harbor Freight has those little wire brushes for the Dremel.

Linda

From rekeen at mtu.edu  Sun Aug 23 08:00:13 2009
From: rekeen at mtu.edu (Robert Keen)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 10:00:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
References: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0908230953150.20238@bios6.bio.mtu.edu>

Tim-

Richard Brown provided a big clue with the horn and brake lights sharing a
common fuse.

On our 68 1600, the horn switch disassembled itself so that the horn began
to honk continuously.  I removed the horn fuse to stop the honking; that
also caused the brake lights to stop functioning. After repairing the horn
switch, I reinstalled the fuse, and the brake lights began to work again.

If you have power at the common fuse, then the problem may lie in the
wiring between the fuse and the point where the brake light and horn
lines are separated.

--Bob

===============================


On Sat, 22 Aug 2009, Tim wrote:

> I have tail lights and turn signal lights, but no brake lights. The turn signals are slow but do work.
>
> The rear harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and wires all look good. I have tried two different brake pedal switches (one was new and both tested good) and neither has worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn no longer works as well)
>
> Help!!!
>
> Tim
> Belleville, WI.
> '70 SPL AND SRL
> Still clueless but always learning
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rekeen at mtu.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sun Aug 23 08:59:12 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:59:12 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] No brake lights
In-Reply-To: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
References: <20090822135753.5UP3D.3895668.root@mp14>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80908230759k3a00a0dat2db6a3159bffed2@mail.gmail.com>

> Tim.
>
> The rear harness is grounded to the frame and the plugs and wires all look good. I have tried two different brake pedal switches (one was new and both tested good) and neither has worked. All fuses are good. (but my horn no longer works as well)
>
> Help!!!

First, if you haven't printed one of the color wiring diagrams for
your year and model available on 311s.org, I'd suggest you do so.
They're in PDF format and scale up very well. I've got several 11 x 17
and a couple blown up to around 4 ft. x 6 ft, all laminated. The 11 x
17 size was only a couple of bucks including lamination. The larger
sizes aren't cheap, but worth it, IMO. I just tape it on a wall and
it's easy to identify and trace circuits.

You should be able to jump the two wires normally attached to the
brake light switch. If your brake lights still don't come on something
other than the switch is the problem. If you use a wire with alligator
clips on it to do the jumping, be sure the wire's at least as heavy as
the wires you're tying together. 14 gauge should be fine for testing
most circuits.

It's a good idea to have a digital volt/ohm meter in your tool kit.
You can you use it to not only check voltages, but continuity as well
to determine if switches are working. I also bought a test lead kit
that includes a variety of clips, clamps and probes so you can do
hands free tests. A 12 volt test light (looks like an ice pick with a
wire attached) is great for quick checks, too.

You can do spot voltage checks along a circuit with either device, but
it's better to start at one end of a circuit or the other and work
toward the other end.

HTH,
Ron

From Frank.L.May at umsl.edu  Sun Aug 23 14:46:50 2009
From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu (May, Frank)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 15:46:50 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group
References: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>

To all,

I have a 1969 Datsun 2000 which I purchased 9/14/1969 and want to restore.  I
had a front end collision in 1971 and have all new sheet metal parts (fenders,
hood, etc) which I acquired about 1972 but never put on the car.  The motor
has not been run since about 1974.  Car has been garaged all these years, so
it's not a "rust bucket," but lots of stuff has occurred just by sitting.  I
have some mechanical skills, but this project is beyond what I'll tackle by
myself.

Can you recommend a source which will do:  a) body restoration; b) mechanical
restoration; c) interior (soft) restoration?  Mechanical work would be broken
down into motor, transmission, hydraulics, etc.?

About the car---------

RE:  http://datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm

My car is SRL311-12936.  According to the link above, serial numbers for 1969
are:  69 2000 SRL311-07001 to 13000 with the note:  No vins found between
SRL311 - 12944 and SRL311 - 13000.

>From this information, what are the chances that serial numbers 12937 to 12943
are still in existence?  Can I legitimately claim that I have the last Datsun
2000 built as a 1969 model - (and that it's also uniquely a one-owner car)?

Frank May

St. Louis County, Missouri

Frank.L.May at umsl.edu

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of IMG_5423.JPG]

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Sun Aug 23 15:13:23 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 17:13:23 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Shakedown Cruise
Message-ID: <8CBF24DAEE7E8BC-1278-19CB8@webmail-d048.sysops.aol.com>

I posted about the cruise I took today in my car on 311 site
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10475&sid=d2f59bb57ee0f745b07b020ae7d504b6

So after having the car for forever, it is finally getting to the point of being a real driver. Cool!

Linda

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Sun Aug 23 19:46:38 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 18:46:38 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <4A91F0FE.4070105@socal.rr.com>

Mike Young.  He's the guy I'd send it to if you want a total restoration.

Eddie

May, Frank wrote:
> To all,
>
> I have a 1969 Datsun 2000 which I purchased 9/14/1969 and want to restore.  I
> had a front end collision in 1971 and have all new sheet metal parts (fenders,
> hood, etc) which I acquired about 1972 but never put on the car.  The motor
> has not been run since about 1974.  Car has been garaged all these years, so
> it's not a "rust bucket," but lots of stuff has occurred just by sitting.  I
> have some mechanical skills, but this project is beyond what I'll tackle by
> myself.
>
> Can you recommend a source which will do:  a) body restoration; b) mechanical
> restoration; c) interior (soft) restoration?  Mechanical work would be broken
> down into motor, transmission, hydraulics, etc.?
>
> About the car---------
>
> RE:  http://datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm
>
> My car is SRL311-12936.  According to the link above, serial numbers for 1969
> are:  69 2000 SRL311-07001 to 13000 with the note:  No vins found between
> SRL311 - 12944 and SRL311 - 13000.
>
> >From this information, what are the chances that serial numbers 12937 to 12943
> are still in existence?  Can I legitimately claim that I have the last Datsun
> 2000 built as a 1969 model - (and that it's also uniquely a one-owner car)?
>
> Frank May
>
> St. Louis County, Missouri
>
> Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of IMG_5423.JPG]
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From fred.davidson at sympatico.ca  Sun Aug 23 20:06:36 2009
From: fred.davidson at sympatico.ca (fred.davidson at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 02:06:36 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W60374392D34E819AB56AC86F90@phx.gbl>

Hi Frank:

Your car and mine must have seen each other on the assembly line.  Mine is
SRL311-12932.I live in eastern Ontario in Canada though. My car was sold in
Guelph, Ontario located between Toronto and Windsor. I have only owned mine
since the early '80s. I do have a lot of the original information including
warranty books etc.

Good luck on the restoration.

Fred Davidson

1969 SRL 2000 - white

> Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 15:46:50 -0500
> From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
> To: edmitche at gmail.com; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group
>
> To all,
>
> I have a 1969 Datsun 2000 which I purchased 9/14/1969 and want to restore.
I
> had a front end collision in 1971 and have all new sheet metal parts
(fenders,
> hood, etc) which I acquired about 1972 but never put on the car.  The motor
> has not been run since about 1974.  Car has been garaged all these years,
so
> it's not a "rust bucket," but lots of stuff has occurred just by sitting.
I
> have some mechanical skills, but this project is beyond what I'll tackle by
> myself.
>
> Can you recommend a source which will do:  a) body restoration; b)
mechanical
> restoration; c) interior (soft) restoration?  Mechanical work would be
broken
> down into motor, transmission, hydraulics, etc.?
>
> About the car---------
>
> RE:  http://datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm
>
> My car is SRL311-12936.  According to the link above, serial numbers for
1969
> are:  69 2000 SRL311-07001 to 13000 with the note:  No vins found between
> SRL311 - 12944 and SRL311 - 13000.
>
> >From this information, what are the chances that serial numbers 12937 to
12943
> are still in existence?  Can I legitimately claim that I have the last
Datsun
> 2000 built as a 1969 model - (and that it's also uniquely a one-owner car)?
>
> Frank May
>
> St. Louis County, Missouri
>
> Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
IMG_5423.JPG]
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as fred.davidson at sympatico.ca
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From roadster at astound.net  Sun Aug 23 22:36:27 2009
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 21:36:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <4a907e93.25578c0a.20b9.ffffb6f3@mx.google.com>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <9AF6DD76-34D7-456F-B8CC-ADACEE7C6BAB@astound.net>

According to the roadster registry at http://311s.org/  they list 5  
1969 cars in the range SRL-13000 thru SRL-13985, which are probably  
1970 cars but I have no idea why the owners thought they were 1969  
cars.  The listing for 1970 shows at least 5 cars less than SRL-13000,  
which were probably 1969 cars sold and tagged as 1970 cars. The  
nearest number to yours on the 1969 list is SRL-12932. Maybe yours is  
the last one around as a 1969 model. (Keep in mind the listing entries  
are contributed by roadster owners, there probably are other cars out  
there that are not listed.)

Fred - So.SF
(I once had SRL-13050, an early 1970 car)


On Aug 23, 2009, at 1:46 PM, May, Frank wrote:

> To all,
>
> I have a 1969 Datsun 2000 which I purchased 9/14/1969 and want to  
> restore.  I
> had a front end collision in 1971 and have all new sheet metal parts  
> (fenders,
> hood, etc) which I acquired about 1972 but never put on the car.   
> The motor
> has not been run since about 1974.  Car has been garaged all these  
> years, so
> it's not a "rust bucket," but lots of stuff has occurred just by  
> sitting.  I
> have some mechanical skills, but this project is beyond what I'll  
> tackle by
> myself.
>
> Can you recommend a source which will do:  a) body restoration; b)  
> mechanical
> restoration; c) interior (soft) restoration?  Mechanical work would  
> be broken
> down into motor, transmission, hydraulics, etc.?
>
> About the car---------
>
> RE:  http://datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm
>
> My car is SRL311-12936.  According to the link above, serial numbers  
> for 1969
> are:  69 2000 SRL311-07001 to 13000 with the note:  No vins found  
> between
> SRL311 - 12944 and SRL311 - 13000.
>
>> From this information, what are the chances that serial numbers  
>> 12937 to 12943
> are still in existence?  Can I legitimately claim that I have the  
> last Datsun
> 2000 built as a 1969 model - (and that it's also uniquely a one- 
> owner car)?
>
> Frank May
>
> St. Louis County, Missouri
>
> Frank.L.May at umsl.edu

From scottmcg at gmail.com  Mon Aug 24 01:07:52 2009
From: scottmcg at gmail.com (Scott McGillivray)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 00:07:52 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Vancouver BC "Day Cruise" - Sunday August 30
Message-ID: <861b75c30908240007w787ffbc5pa02fdaaa4c05613e@mail.gmail.com>

We have a high number of roadsters in or near Vancouver BC and I can't
remember any group day trips, so here goes...

*When* :         Sunday, August 30, 10am departure time.
*Meet at* :       A & W in Maple Ridge, corner of Lougheed Highway and 228th
Street.
*Destination* :  Harrison Hot Springs (50 miles one-way)

   - 5 roadsters already confirmed, expect more now that I've posted here.
   - Leaving the A & W at 10am sharp so show up early if you want breakfast.
   - Weather permitting, of course.
   - Maybe pit-stop at the Sasquatch Inn?

-Scott
1969 SPL311

From svedise at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 24 08:24:41 2009
From: svedise at hotmail.com (Jim Svedise)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 07:24:41 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  First Posting to Group
Message-ID: <BAY136-DS6EE7F655095BEABA6E44FB4F90@phx.gbl>

I will second that you can not get much better of a restoration guy than 
Mike and Jack Young.

Jim
70 2000

> Mike Young.  He's the guy I'd send it to if you want a total restoration.
>
> Eddie
>
> May, Frank wrote:
>> To all,
>>
>> I have a 1969 Datsun 2000 which I purchased 9/14/1969 and want to 
>> restore.  I
>> had a front end collision in 1971 and have all new sheet metal parts 
>> (fenders,
>> hood, etc) which I acquired about 1972 but never put on the car.  The 
>> motor
>> has not been run since about 1974.  Car has been garaged all these years, 
>> so
>> it's not a "rust bucket," but lots of stuff has occurred just by sitting. 
>> I
>> have some mechanical skills, but this project is beyond what I'll tackle 
>> by
>> myself.
>>
>> Can you recommend a source which will do:  a) body restoration; b) 
>> mechanical
>> restoration; c) interior (soft) restoration?  Mechanical work would be 
>> broken
>> down into motor, transmission, hydraulics, etc.?
>>
>> About the car---------
>>
>> RE:  http://datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm
>>
>> My car is SRL311-12936.  According to the link above, serial numbers for 
>> 1969
>> are:  69 2000 SRL311-07001 to 13000 with the note:  No vins found between
>> SRL311 - 12944 and SRL311 - 13000.
>>
>> >From this information, what are the chances that serial numbers 12937 to 
>> >12943
>> are still in existence?  Can I legitimately claim that I have the last 
>> Datsun
>> 2000 built as a 1969 model - (and that it's also uniquely a one-owner 
>> car)?
>>
>> Frank May
>>
>> St. Louis County, Missouri
>>
>> Frank.L.May at umsl.edu

From stl at adnc.com  Mon Aug 24 09:05:57 2009
From: stl at adnc.com (Steve Landuyt)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 08:05:57 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7A@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <20090824150549.TXDR11920.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

There are a few craftsmen known for quality restorations on Datsun
roadsters.  Les Cannady of Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista, CA, is one
of the best.  Here is his website:

http://classicdatsun.com/

BTW, I have the same year roadster, but purchased it a few years later than
you did in 1971.  Enjoy your restoration.

Regards, Steve Landuyt

'69 2000
San Diego, CA  





-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of May, Frank
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 1:47 PM
To: Ed Mitchell; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] First Posting to Group

To all,

I have a 1969 Datsun 2000 which I purchased 9/14/1969 and want to restore.
I
had a front end collision in 1971 and have all new sheet metal parts
(fenders,
hood, etc) which I acquired about 1972 but never put on the car.  The motor
has not been run since about 1974.  Car has been garaged all these years, so
it's not a "rust bucket," but lots of stuff has occurred just by sitting.  I
have some mechanical skills, but this project is beyond what I'll tackle by
myself.

Can you recommend a source which will do:  a) body restoration; b)
mechanical
restoration; c) interior (soft) restoration?  Mechanical work would be
broken
down into motor, transmission, hydraulics, etc.?

About the car---------

RE:  http://datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm

My car is SRL311-12936.  According to the link above, serial numbers for
1969
are:  69 2000 SRL311-07001 to 13000 with the note:  No vins found between
SRL311 - 12944 and SRL311 - 13000.

>From this information, what are the chances that serial numbers 12937 to
12943
are still in existence?  Can I legitimately claim that I have the last
Datsun
2000 built as a 1969 model - (and that it's also uniquely a one-owner car)?

Frank May

St. Louis County, Missouri

Frank.L.May at umsl.edu

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IMG_5423.JPG]
You are subscribed as stl at adnc.com

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From dscrib2 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 24 10:38:49 2009
From: dscrib2 at hotmail.com (Dana Scribner)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:38:49 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Silicon brake fluid
Message-ID: <COL105-W3836ED00C66E59BA35D33F0F90@phx.gbl>

I just talked to a man who has changed the brake system on his 1947 Packard
over from DOT 3 to a silicon base fluid. He stated that he and some of the
other Packard people are having problem with thier stop light switch. They
think it has to with the switch not being compatible with the silicon base
fluid. Has anyone heard about tis or had the same problem?



Dana S

'69 2K

_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From dboerst at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 24 10:55:22 2009
From: dboerst at yahoo.com (David Boerst)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 09:55:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] 1966 Roadster  Top Bows wanted
Message-ID: <278036.64493.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I am looking for a set of top bows for a 1966 1600 Roadster. I think 1965 thru 1967 1/2 will fit. Also tops for 1966 and 1968-70 SPL311s. Email me @ dboerst at yahoo.com Thanks!

From fj201 at cox.net  Mon Aug 24 11:45:33 2009
From: fj201 at cox.net (Ron Hamilton)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 10:45:33 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Silicon brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <COL105-W3836ED00C66E59BA35D33F0F90@phx.gbl>
References: <COL105-W3836ED00C66E59BA35D33F0F90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A92D1BD.3010500@cox.net>

have used silicone and there are a couple of things to remember;
Silicone fluid has the propensity to retain minute bubbles of air if it 
isn't  poured and bled* very *slowly which causes a spongy pedal.
It also expands with heat and compresses under pressure unlike regular 
brake fluid.
I used it to protect the finish of my cars as it isn't chemically 
reactive(like brake fluid) to anything that I know of, so seals last 
forever and if some gets on the finish  just wipe it off.
Systems that have had regular fluid in them before need to be very 
thoroughly washed out before using silicone.

By the way, I have a gallon of military grade silicone fluid left if 
someone is interested.

Dana Scribner wrote:
> I just talked to a man who has changed the brake system on his 1947 Packard
> over from DOT 3 to a silicon base fluid. He stated that he and some of the
> other Packard people are having problem with thier stop light switch. They
> think it has to with the switch not being compatible with the silicon base
> fluid. Has anyone heard about tis or had the same problem?
>
>
>
> Dana S
>
> '69 2K
>
> _________________________________________________________________

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Mon Aug 24 17:26:32 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 16:26:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Vancouver BC "Day Cruise" - Sunday August 30
References: <861b75c30908240007w787ffbc5pa02fdaaa4c05613e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F1B8C51B0F124E94990AEDD21C94016C@Daryl>

It's questionable, but if I get the parts back from the machine shop in time 
I'll try to make it out.

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott McGillivray" <scottmcg at gmail.com>
Subject: [Roadsters] Vancouver BC "Day Cruise" - Sunday August 30


> We have a high number of roadsters in or near Vancouver BC and I can't
> remember any group day trips, so here goes...
>
> *When* :         Sunday, August 30, 10am departure time.
> *Meet at* :       A & W in Maple Ridge, corner of Lougheed Highway and 
> 228th
> Street.
> *Destination* :  Harrison Hot Springs (50 miles one-way)
>
>   - 5 roadsters already confirmed, expect more now that I've posted here.
>   - Leaving the A & W at 10am sharp so show up early if you want 
> breakfast.
>   - Weather permitting, of course.
>   - Maybe pit-stop at the Sasquatch Inn?
>
> -Scott
> 1969 SPL311 

From gcallahan at prodigy.net  Mon Aug 24 17:38:13 2009
From: gcallahan at prodigy.net (Gary Callahan)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 16:38:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Bad Bearing Noise from Left-Rear Wheel   :~(
Message-ID: <801715.17302.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've got a bad bearing noise coming from my left-rear wheel area.  Anyone have
any idea how difficult this might be to fix and if the bearing is available
through normal auto parts stores?  It's a stock 1968 1600 with drum breaks on
the rear.


 
Gary Callahan   :~(
Beaverton, Oregon
 
1968 Datsun 1600 "Fairlady" Roadster
SPL311-18665
 

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Mon Aug 24 17:54:54 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 18:54:54 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Bad Bearing Noise from Left-Rear Wheel   :~(
In-Reply-To: <801715.17302.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <801715.17302.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A93284E.4030304@mail.utexas.edu>

Gary,

The rear bearings are only available from the dealer and our suppliers. 
They are special, with no commercial replacement.

It shouldn't be too difficult to replace it, but it might be a bit time 
consuming, unless you want to buy a few parts that you may not need. The 
bearings are held onto the axle either by a nut, or a pressed on 
retainer. The retainer is a one-use part and must be replaced. Don't try 
to reuse it unless you don't mind if your axle slides out, wheel and all 
when you are driving.

You will probably need a slide hammer to pull the axle and bearing out, 
but parts houses that lend tools should have one available.

The bearing and retainer will need to be pressed off & on, so if you 
don't have a press, take to a shop.

There should be plenty of write-ups on 311s.org.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Gary Callahan, On 8/24/2009 6:38 PM:
> I've got a bad bearing noise coming from my left-rear wheel area.  Anyone have
> any idea how difficult this might be to fix and if the bearing is available
> through normal auto parts stores?  It's a stock 1968 1600 with drum breaks on
> the rear.
>
>
>  
> Gary Callahan   :~(
> Beaverton, Oregon
>  
> 1968 Datsun 1600 "Fairlady" Roadster
> SPL311-18665
>  
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From barterdude at comcast.net  Mon Aug 24 15:13:31 2009
From: barterdude at comcast.net (barterdude)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 15:13:31 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] starter question
Message-ID: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>

My 69 2L starter gave out and I took it to the same place that did my 63
starter a few years back.  He didn't have anything in stock and would take a
long time to rebuild existing, so he ordered and says he got it in, BUT,
says the length is about 1 inch longer.  Is this going to cause problems as
it was a bugger digging it out between the frame and body on the driver's
side?

 

Thoughts - is this Hitachi vs. Mitsubishi stuff?

 

Gary Lasater

founding member www.wycroc.org

'63 SPL310-300161C

'63 SPL310-300289B

'64 SPL310-001289

'68 SRL311-11977

'69 SRL311-12536

'70 SPL311-28169

 This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 

17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134

 

P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Mon Aug 24 18:13:17 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 17:13:17 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Bad Bearing Noise from Left-Rear Wheel
In-Reply-To: <801715.17302.qm@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A92CA2D.5872.1E15427@localhost>

> I've got a bad bearing noise coming from my left-rear wheel area.
> Anyone have any idea how difficult this might be to fix and if the
> bearing is available through normal auto parts stores?

The bearing is held on via a sleeve that is pressed onto the shaft.
Somewhere around 15 ton press is required, as I recall (it might
be higher, I'm away from my manuals). Some people advocate
CAREFULLY deeply notching the sleeve with a grinding wheel
and then using a cold-chisel to split it off (do not do not DO NOT
nick the axle!) as you get a limited number of presses before the
sleeve isn't 'tight enough' on the shaft and the axle becomes a
throwaway. Less likely to damage things by pressing it off...

The bearing is a unique size that you likely won't find anywhere
but on a vendor's shelf. Last I knew about a C note per side for
the parts, plus shop time of course.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From aultgc at att.net  Mon Aug 24 11:25:40 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 10:25:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Silicon brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <COL105-W3836ED00C66E59BA35D33F0F90@phx.gbl>
References: <COL105-W3836ED00C66E59BA35D33F0F90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <706062.37574.qm@web180208.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I switched to silicone fluid in my '66 years ago, and have had no problems
with the fluid-actuated stop light switch.

Gary
________________________________
From: Dana Scribner <dscrib2 at hotmail.com>
To:
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net; drone <drone at drone-club.com>
Sent: Monday,
August 24, 2009 11:38:49 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Silicon brake fluid

I just
talked to a man who has changed the brake system on his 1947 Packard
over from
DOT 3 to a silicon base fluid. He stated that he and some of the
other Packard
people are having problem with thier stop light switch. They
think it has to
with the switch not being compatible with the silicon base
fluid. Has anyone
heard about tis or had the same problem?



Dana S

'69 2K
_________________________________________________________________
Get back to
school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1
You are subscribed as
aultgc at att.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 18:56:21 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 17:56:21 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] starter question
In-Reply-To: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <4A9336B5.7070102@socal.rr.com>

I actually have several of those short starters, and one long starter, 
all of which were completely rebuilt by a reputable shop.  If you're 
interested, email me off list.

Eddie

barterdude wrote:
> My 69 2L starter gave out and I took it to the same place that did my 63
> starter a few years back.  He didn't have anything in stock and would take a
> long time to rebuild existing, so he ordered and says he got it in, BUT,
> says the length is about 1 inch longer.  Is this going to cause problems as
> it was a bugger digging it out between the frame and body on the driver's
> side?
>
>  
>
> Thoughts - is this Hitachi vs. Mitsubishi stuff?
>
>  
>
> Gary Lasater
>
> founding member www.wycroc.org
>
> '63 SPL310-300161C
>
> '63 SPL310-300289B
>
> '64 SPL310-001289
>
> '68 SRL311-11977
>
> '69 SRL311-12536
>
> '70 SPL311-28169
>
>  This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
> which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
> confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
> the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
> the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
> prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
> us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
> delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 
>
> 17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134
>
>  
>
> P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 18:57:18 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 17:57:18 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] starter question
In-Reply-To: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <4A9336EE.3020904@socal.rr.com>

Oh, my GUESS would be he got you an original 1600 starter, which if you 
have headers, will NOT fit. 

Not sure if the starters were interchangeable between the 1600 and the 2000


Eddie

barterdude wrote:
> My 69 2L starter gave out and I took it to the same place that did my 63
> starter a few years back.  He didn't have anything in stock and would take a
> long time to rebuild existing, so he ordered and says he got it in, BUT,
> says the length is about 1 inch longer.  Is this going to cause problems as
> it was a bugger digging it out between the frame and body on the driver's
> side?
>
>  
>
> Thoughts - is this Hitachi vs. Mitsubishi stuff?
>
>  
>
> Gary Lasater
>
> founding member www.wycroc.org
>
> '63 SPL310-300161C
>
> '63 SPL310-300289B
>
> '64 SPL310-001289
>
> '68 SRL311-11977
>
> '69 SRL311-12536
>
> '70 SPL311-28169
>
>  This message is only intended for the use of the individual or entity to
> which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,
> confidential and exempt from disclosure.  If the read of this message is not
> the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering
> the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly
> prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify
> us by telephone (303) 840-7172, or electronically by return message, and
> delete or destroy all copies of this communication.  Thank you. 
>
> 17009 Carr Ave. == Parker CO 80134
>
>  
>
> P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eddietude at socal.rr.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 18:58:59 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 17:58:59 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun LIMO???
Message-ID: <4A933753.50709@socal.rr.com>

I thought this was pretty cool and wanted to share.  A bit pricy, but 
interesting!

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/1332270107.html

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Mon Aug 24 20:49:30 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 19:49:30 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] starter question
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <78389FBCFEEF4D808985C2AEA6831489@HPW>

Gary;

Have you removed the splash plate that's on the underside of the body 
frame/firewall that limits access to the starter?

If you have NOT, then it might be a good idea to do so.  By doing that you 
gain a ton of access space right above the exhaust tubing and below the 
SU's.

If you need, I can post pictures of what I did.

HTH
E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "barterdude" <
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 2:13 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] starter question


> My 69 2L starter gave out and I took it to the same place that did my 63
> starter a few years back.  He didn't have anything in stock and would take 
> a
> long time to rebuild existing, so he ordered and says he got it in, BUT,
> says the length is about 1 inch longer.  Is this going to cause problems 
> as
> it was a bugger digging it out between the frame and body on the driver's
> side?

From vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 24 22:01:43 2009
From: vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com (steven boortz)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 21:01:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun LIMO???
In-Reply-To: <4A933753.50709@socal.rr.com>
References: <4A933753.50709@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <459947.64426.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

LIMO?  LMAO.




________________________________
From: Eddie <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 5:58:59 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun LIMO???

I thought this was pretty cool and wanted to share.  A bit pricy, but interesting!

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/1332270107.html
You are subscribed as vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From eddietude at socal.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 22:37:23 2009
From: eddietude at socal.rr.com (Eddie)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 21:37:23 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun LIMO???
In-Reply-To: <459947.64426.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <4A933753.50709@socal.rr.com>
	<459947.64426.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <322238A7-95EC-4162-9864-9352F50F415A@socal.rr.com>

Hey that's riding a Datsun in style!  Lol.

Sent from my iPhone plz excuse typing errors.  :-)


On Aug 24, 2009, at 9:01 PM, steven boortz <vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com 
 > wrote:

> LIMO?  LMAO.
>
> From: Eddie <eddietude at socal.rr.com>
> To: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 5:58:59 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun LIMO???
>
> I thought this was pretty cool and wanted to share.  A bit pricy,  
> but interesting!
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/1332270107.html
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as vociferouschicanery at yahoo.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From howard at everythingchristmas.com.au  Tue Aug 25 01:52:21 2009
From: howard at everythingchristmas.com.au (Howard @ Everything Christmas)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:52:21 +1000
Subject: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
References: <D432694448704648ABDE882AE87B8531@XPLaptop><056EE839-1838-4053-944D-455E2F581E1D@astound.net>
	<000b01ca2355$776e7380$664b5a80$@net>
Message-ID: <940F91C7536D4769A46FA5E1DB03A947@DesktopFromT>

Hi all,

I have found a little heat - to the surrounding metal,  works well sometimes 
too.

Maybe with an electric heat gun (no flame)
but keep away from fuel etc. - naturally

Best Regards,

Howard

PS Hi Gordon - I notice the pic of my race car is still on your site,  must 
get you something a bit more interesting and updated.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
To: "'Fred Katz'" <roadster at astound.net>; "'Datsun roadster'" 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 4:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose


> If you have reverse-twist drill bits, sometimes just trying to drill the
> bolt head with one of these will generate enough torque/heat to break the
> bolt loose.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz
> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:48 PM
> To: Datsun roadster
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
>
> As Vince said, use patience.
>
> But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry
> once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front-
> end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries
> and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll
> need new nuts and bolts.
>
> Fred - So.SF
> On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:
>
>> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of
>> Pennsylvania and
>> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big
>> time.
>> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this
>> detached
>> without having to bust everything in half?
>>
>>
>>
>> Suggestion appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Lasater
>>
>> founding member www.wycroc.org
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From howard at everythingchristmas.com.au  Tue Aug 25 01:53:56 2009
From: howard at everythingchristmas.com.au (Howard @ Everything Christmas)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:53:56 +1000
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  What is recommended for breaking rust loose
Message-ID: <5D529BABD3CF4AA88D66F24BC77F83C6@DesktopFromT>

> Hi all,
>
> I have found a little heat - to the surrounding metal,  works well 
> sometimes too.
>
> Maybe with an electric heat gun (no flame) or a mini propane torch for 
> tight spots
> but keep away from fuel etc. - naturally
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Howard
>
> PS Hi Gordon - I notice the pic of my race car is still on your site, 
> must get you something a bit more interesting and updated.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>
> To: "'Fred Katz'" <roadster at astound.net>; "'Datsun roadster'" 
> <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 4:22 AM
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
>
>
>> If you have reverse-twist drill bits, sometimes just trying to drill the
>> bolt head with one of these will generate enough torque/heat to break the
>> bolt loose.
>>
>> Gordon Glasgow
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz
>> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:48 PM
>> To: Datsun roadster
>> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
>>
>> As Vince said, use patience.
>>
>> But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry
>> once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front-
>> end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries
>> and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll
>> need new nuts and bolts.
>>
>> Fred - So.SF
>> On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:
>>
>>> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of
>>> Pennsylvania and
>>> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big
>>> time.
>>> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this
>>> detached
>>> without having to bust everything in half?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Suggestion appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary Lasater
>>>
>>> founding member www.wycroc.org
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Aug 25 05:50:15 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 4:50:15 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Brake lights
Message-ID: <20090825075015.C6CNH.3971880.root@mp06>

Thanks to everyone who replied with detailed info and steps/places to check. I feel comfortable now tracking this issue down, especially after last Sunday: We took both Roadsters out for a family Roadster Run and I had intermittent horn and brake lights so it seems like it might be a loose connection or maybe a short somewhere. Hopefully easily found. 

Thanks again all. 

Tim

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Aug 25 05:52:18 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 7:52:18 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Slightly OT--wiper blades
Message-ID: <20090825075218.BZ6AF.3971982.root@mp06>

Has any one found a wiper blade that lasts longer than three of four months--summer or winter? I seem to need new wiper blades for both my S10 and my wife's Avalon every 12 to 16 weeks and it is getting frustrating.

TIA

Tim

From scott8933 at socal.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 08:27:20 2009
From: scott8933 at socal.rr.com (Scott Ulrich)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 07:27:20 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Datsun LIMO???
In-Reply-To: <4A933753.50709@socal.rr.com>
References: <4A933753.50709@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <bdfb16710908250727k4ce331aft1f08b4037fab5260@mail.gmail.com>

This is why Fontana is sometimes called "Fontucky".



On Mon, Aug 24, 2009 at 5:58 PM, Eddie <eddietude at socal.rr.com> wrote:

> I thought this was pretty cool and wanted to share.  A bit pricy, but
> interesting!
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/1332270107.html
> ________________________________________

From Frank.L.May at umsl.edu  Tue Aug 25 10:03:33 2009
From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu (May, Frank)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:03:33 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
Message-ID: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>

My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last turned
over.  I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring.  I
put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's stuck.
Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head?  I've
shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but without
results so far.

Frank May
SRL311-12936

________________________________

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Tue Aug 25 10:13:43 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:13:43 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <4A940DB7.1020702@mail.utexas.edu>

Diesel oil, or Kroil. Then let it sit for a few weeks. Using a block of 
wood you might try introducing some vibrations into the block by the 
cylinders. I doubt heat would be possible, since there is a water jacket 
in that area.

 When you try to turn the dampener bolt, try going both directions. Even 
a little movement will help.

Good luck.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake May, Frank, On 8/25/2009 11:03 AM:
> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last turned
> over.  I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring.  I
> put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's stuck.
> Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head?  I've
> shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but without
> results so far.
>
> Frank May
> SRL311-12936
>
> ________________________________
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 25 11:44:41 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 10:44:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <232715.41396.qm@web51110.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The pistons are likely frozen in the cylinders. Even if you got it free, the
rings will likely be shot (frozen) and never seal properly. There may be more
damage also. Rust on cylinder walls is bad news. With a lot of luck, you may
be able to just replace the rings and "break the ridge" with a light hone and
a hand held power drill.
 
But allow it to sit with kroil, kerosene, liquid wrench or whatever in it, and
wait.
 
If you pull the head, tap on the piston tops, but don't crack them. I'd use a
hard rubber or wooden block to keep the contact spread out, the pistons may
crack from a hammer blow. Mine came loose, but the bores were lousy.
 
Many other problems can be present, mine had gotten some water (a few drops)
into a bearing and I had to not only bore out the engine .020, but regrind the
crank. When I was done, I had spent over $2,500 on the engine alone, and did
almost all the work myself. I don't have the equipment of an engine shop, but
I can swing a wrench. I even put in all new valves, valve guides and seals,
main bearings and jackshaft bearings and pistons. The con rods were OK. It is
practically a new engine.
 
God, but I was relieved when it ran right, finally, I was worried I may have
done some little thing wrong....
 
Whatever you do, don't use a half-assed carb rebuild shop, I made that mistake
and it cost me 3 months. Use Keith, on this list, or Z Therapy (Keith is
cheaper, I learned too late....)
 
But she runs like new now.
 
JimG
NJ 2k '69

--- On Tue, 8/25/09, May, Frank <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu> wrote:


From: May, Frank <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
To: barterdude at comcast.net, "Datsun roadster"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 12:03 PM


My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last turned
over.  I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring.  I
put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's stuck.
Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head?  I've
shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but without
results so far.

Frank May
SRL311-12936

________________________________
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Tue Aug 25 11:47:27 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 10:47:27 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Unsticking an engine (was: Second Posting)
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <4A93C13F.29992.7C2668@localhost>

> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was
> last turned over... I put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried
> to turn, but it's stuck.

Diet Pepsi. No kidding - google it.

But you'll need to figure out how to clean it out, if you're not
doing an immediate teardown.

I'd also suggest you pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump (CCW)
to get some lubrication into the bearings.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 25 11:50:51 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:50:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] FS: 1969 1600 near Seattle, WA
Message-ID: <1970832816.1871591251222651615.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Not mine, but 15 minutes away if you require more info: 

<http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?p=196281>

Pete 

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Tue Aug 25 12:06:25 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:06:25 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
In-Reply-To: <232715.41396.qm@web51110.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CBF3C5E526AE15-A04-19246@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com>

 What about pulling the valve cover and pouring a qt of oil over everything? I think I heard that somewhere.

Linda


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gammon <gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com>
To: Datsun roadster <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 10:44 am
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Second Posting










The pistons are likely frozen in the cylinders. Even if you got it free, the
rings will likely be shot (frozen) and never seal properly. There may be more
damage also. Rust on cylinder walls is bad news. With a lot of luck, you may
be able to just replace the rings and "break the ridge" with a light hone and
a hand held power drill.
 
But allow it to sit with kroil, kerosene, liquid wrench or whatever in it, and
wait.
 
If you pull the head, tap on the piston tops, but don't crack them. I'd use a
hard rubber or wooden block to keep the contact spread out, the pistons may
crack from a hammer blow. Mine came loose, but the bores were lousy.
 
Many other problems can be present, mine had gotten some water (a few drops)
into a bearing and I had to not only bore out the engine .020, but regrind the
crank. When I was done, I had spent over $2,500 on the engine alone, and did
almost all the work myself. I don't have the equipment of an engine shop, but
I can swing a wrench. I even put in all new valves, valve guides and seals,
main bearings and jackshaft bearings and pistons. The con rods were OK. It is
practically a new engine.
 
God, but I was relieved when it ran right, finally, I was worried I may have
done some little thing wrong....
 
Whatever you do, don't use a half-assed carb rebuild shop, I made that mistake
and it cost me 3 months. Use Keith, on this list, or Z Therapy (Keith is
cheaper, I learned too late....)
 
But she runs like new now.
 
JimG
NJ 2k '69

--- On Tue, 8/25/09, May, Frank <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu> wrote:


From: May, Frank <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
To: barterdude at comcast.net, "Datsun roadster"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 12:03 PM


My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last turned
over.  I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring.  I
put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's stuck.
Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head?  I've
shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but without
results so far.

Frank May
SRL311-12936

________________________________
You are subscribed as gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at aim.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Frank.L.May at umsl.edu  Tue Aug 25 12:25:24 2009
From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu (May, Frank)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 13:25:24 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Unsticking an engine (was: Second Posting)
References: <4A93C13F.29992.7C2668@localhost>
Message-ID: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F81@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>

I plan to tear it down and have a machinist do a rebuild.  He has agreed to do
the labor; I supply the parts he needs.  However, he wants the pistons free
before I turn the motor over to him.

Top of the motor under the valve/cam cover looks good.  The only rust is see
is a spot on the cover about the size of a dime, and it's only surface.  I
suspect most cars which are run every day have more.  I guess that's a good
sign.

Pepsi contains phosphoric acid which attacks iron oxide without attacking iron
metal.  It's the active ingredient in many rust inhibitor products.  Thanks
for the advice for a cheap alternative.....

Frank
Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
SRL311-12936

________________________________

From: John F Sandhoff [mailto:sandhoff at csus.edu]
Sent: Tue 8/25/2009 12:47 PM
To: May, Frank
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Unsticking an engine (was: Second Posting)




> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was
> last turned over... I put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried
> to turn, but it's stuck.

Diet Pepsi. No kidding - google it.

But you'll need to figure out how to clean it out, if you're not
doing an immediate teardown.

I'd also suggest you pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump (CCW)
to get some lubrication into the bearings.

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

From escanlon at wa-net.com  Tue Aug 25 13:37:39 2009
From: escanlon at wa-net.com (E Scanlon)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 12:37:39 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <F34C1DC030BD4EC696DCB953DC59DB90@HPW>

When my mechanic replaced an engine into one of my Z's, the engine was 
"sticky" and would NOT turn over at all.

He injected some ATF into each of the cylinders and let it sit for a couple 
of days. Then with a 1/2" ratchet and socket on the main crank nut, he tried 
to turn the engine over in one direction, then the other.  He'd do this 
several times, then would push it in one direction and let it sit.  This 
went on for a couple of days and slowly but surely he got the engine to 
begin turning over.

The end result is that he was able to finally get the engine to turn over 
completely with the ratchet.  He mounted the engine and electricals and 
started her right up.

I'm not sure if there was any scoring or damage to the engine, but it 
doesn't burn oil, nor other problems.

It might not be the "perfect" fix, but a complete engine swap for $500 
ending up with a running car, can't be beat.

FWIW
E


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "May, Frank" <
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 9:03 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting


> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last 
> turned
> over.  I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring. 
> I
> put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's 
> stuck.
> Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head? 
> I've
> shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but 
> without
> results so far.
>
> Frank May
> SRL311-12936

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 13:52:17 2009
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:52:17 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
In-Reply-To: <F34C1DC030BD4EC696DCB953DC59DB90@HPW>
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
	<F34C1DC030BD4EC696DCB953DC59DB90@HPW>
Message-ID: <2faaebf80908251252n2d209b50y82ef5c9ab22a642a@mail.gmail.com>

> When my mechanic replaced an engine into one of my Z's, the engine was
> "sticky" and would NOT turn over at all.
>
> He injected some ATF into each of the cylinders and let it sit for a couple
> of days. Then with a 1/2" ratchet and socket on the main crank nut, he
tried
> to turn the engine over in one direction, then the other. B He'd do this
> several times, then would push it in one direction and let it sit. B This
> went on for a couple of days and slowly but surely he got the engine to
> begin turning over.
>
> The end result is that he was able to finally get the engine to turn over
> completely with the ratchet. B He mounted the engine and electricals and
> started her right up.
>
> I'm not sure if there was any scoring or damage to the engine, but it
> doesn't burn oil, nor other problems.
>
> It might not be the "perfect" fix, but a complete engine swap for $500
> ending up with a running car, can't be beat.
>
I may be a bit paranoid, but if an engine's frozen, there's a reason
and I think you're always wise to find the reason and fix it. This is
especially true for the R and U series motors that are becoming more
scarce by the day and the L-4 and L-6 motors aren't far behind.

I mean, is it more costly to disassemble and clean the engine up now,
or take a chance on scoring bearings and cylinder walls, which may
render the engine useless later?

Just Sayin',
Ron

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Aug 25 15:30:59 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:30:59 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] rag top back bar
Message-ID: <20090825173059.XVOG7.3996012.root@mp08>

Is there a difference in the rag top back bars from low to high windscreen cars? How about from tonneau (sp?) cover to rag top? I have several loose/extras and they are not all arced the same. Are the back bars rag top brand specific? 

My 2000 rag top, soft top boot and tonneau all have little two inch pieces of metal instead of a full bar. But these three items also all have snaps instead of posties and twisties so they must be aftermarket. 

I need to lend a bar to Dan so he can get his ragtop installed on the frame. I want to make sure what I lend him is correct for his rag top. 

Thanks and sorry for all the questions. 

Tim
Belleville, WI.
'70 SPL AND SRL
Still clueless but always learning

From daveandlindab at comcast.net  Tue Aug 25 18:28:16 2009
From: daveandlindab at comcast.net (dave)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:28:16 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
In-Reply-To: <4A940DB7.1020702@mail.utexas.edu>
Message-ID: <0140CF0DC9AD4C6C807587FEED3DC059@delled48909442>

You can also put the car in gear and rock back and forth, top gear works
best.  If the clutch works, roll it to walking speed in 4th and then let the
clutch up quickly, like a push start.  Just be ready for a sudden stop.
Dave Brisco

-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Horne [mailto:pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 12:14 PM
To: May, Frank
Cc: Datsun roadster
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Second Posting


Diesel oil, or Kroil. Then let it sit for a few weeks. Using a block of
wood you might try introducing some vibrations into the block by the
cylinders. I doubt heat would be possible, since there is a water jacket
in that area.

 When you try to turn the dampener bolt, try going both directions. Even
a little movement will help.

Good luck.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake May, Frank, On 8/25/2009 11:03 AM:
> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last
> turned over.  I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and
> restoring.  I put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to
> turn, but it's stuck. Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without
> first pulling the head?  I've shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into
> the spark plug sockets, but without results so far.
>
> Frank May
> SRL311-12936
>
> ________________________________
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From aultgc at att.net  Tue Aug 25 19:48:35 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:48:35 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Unsticking an engine (was: Second Posting)
References: <4A93C13F.29992.7C2668@localhost>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F81@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <A37B3CF9A6874ECBB46D6AC0EA6A85F8@gaxp1>

Frank,

I recommend you find another machinist.  You needn't care about the 
condition of the pistons, since you're not going to re-use them anyway.  You 
should be able to take the motor to your rebuilder and expect he'll solve 
the frozen engine problem.

There's a long block on eBay which the seller calims has been rebuilt.  If 
you can satisfy yourself that he is offering a solid product, it will be a 
lot less expensive than starting from scratch with your seized motor.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "May, Frank" <Frank.L.May at umsl.edu>
To: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff at csus.edu>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Unsticking an engine (was: Second Posting)


>I plan to tear it down and have a machinist do a rebuild.  He has agreed to 
>do
> the labor; I supply the parts he needs.  However, he wants the pistons 
> free
> before I turn the motor over to him.
>
> Top of the motor under the valve/cam cover looks good.  The only rust is 
> see
> is a spot on the cover about the size of a dime, and it's only surface.  I
> suspect most cars which are run every day have more.  I guess that's a 
> good
> sign.
>
> Pepsi contains phosphoric acid which attacks iron oxide without attacking 
> iron
> metal.  It's the active ingredient in many rust inhibitor products. 
> Thanks
> for the advice for a cheap alternative.....
>
> Frank
> Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
> SRL311-12936
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: John F Sandhoff [mailto:sandhoff at csus.edu]
> Sent: Tue 8/25/2009 12:47 PM
> To: May, Frank
> Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Unsticking an engine (was: Second Posting)
>
>
>
>
>> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was
>> last turned over... I put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried
>> to turn, but it's stuck.
>
> Diet Pepsi. No kidding - google it.
>
> But you'll need to figure out how to clean it out, if you're not
> doing an immediate teardown.
>
> I'd also suggest you pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump (CCW)
> to get some lubrication into the bearings.
>
> -- John
>     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From waynomor at aol.com  Tue Aug 25 20:53:43 2009
From: waynomor at aol.com (waynomor at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:53:43 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  What is recommended for breaking rust  loose
In-Reply-To: <5D529BABD3CF4AA88D66F24BC77F83C6@DesktopFromT>
References: <5D529BABD3CF4AA88D66F24BC77F83C6@DesktopFromT>
Message-ID: <8CBF40F8F1E5FA6-3360-1F43@webmail-d033.sysops.aol.com>

"PB Blaster"


-----Original Message-----
From: Howard @ Everything Christmas <howard at everythingchristmas.com.au>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 2:53 am
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw: What is recommended for breaking rust loose


> Hi all,?
>?
> I have found a little heat - to the surrounding metal, works well > sometimes too.?
>?
> Maybe with an electric heat gun (no flame) or a mini propane torch for > tight spots?
> but keep away from fuel etc. - naturally?
>?
> Best Regards,?
>?
> Howard?
>?
> PS Hi Gordon - I notice the pic of my race car is still on your site, > must get you something a bit more interesting and updated.?
>?
>?
>?
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>?
> To: "'Fred Katz'" <roadster at astound.net>; "'Datsun roadster'" > <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>?
> Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 4:22 AM?
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose?
>?
>?
>> If you have reverse-twist drill bits, sometimes just trying to drill the?
>> bolt head with one of these will generate enough torque/heat to break the?
>> bolt loose.?
>>?
>> Gordon Glasgow?
>> -----Original Message-----?
>> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net?
>> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz?
>> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:48 PM?
>> To: Datsun roadster?
>> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose?
>>?
>> As Vince said, use patience.?
>>?
>> But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry?
>> once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front-?
>> end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries?
>> and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll?
>> need new nuts and bolts.?
>>?
>> Fred - So.SF?
>> On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:?
>>?
>>> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of?
>>> Pennsylvania and?
>>> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big?
>>> time.?
>>> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this?
>>> detached?
>>> without having to bust everything in half??
>>>?
>>>?
>>>?
>>> Suggestion appreciated.?
>>>?
>>>?
>>>?
>>> Gary Lasater?
>>>?
>>> founding member www.wycroc.org?
>> Datsun-roadsters mailing list?
>>?
>> http://www.team.net/archive?
>>?
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters?
________________________________________?
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
?
You are subscribed as waynomor at aol.com?
?
Datsun-roadsters mailing list?
?
http://www.team.net/archive?
?
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters?

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 25 21:28:07 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:28:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] wasn't that hard
In-Reply-To: <8CBF40F8F1E5FA6-3360-1F43@webmail-d033.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <554884.41718.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just put together the windshield for my early 67 roadster (as in assembling
the glass, gasket, and frame).  not that hard!  took about two hours; i have
never done a windshield before.

From srl311_1969 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 25 21:27:35 2009
From: srl311_1969 at hotmail.com (Richard Rudden)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:27:35 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] One owner 1969 SRL for sale
Message-ID: <BAY130-DS3BCE0F786C67DCACF9457C9F70@phx.gbl>

My name is Richard Rudden and while I have seldom been active on the list
I've been on the list for around 10 years. I've met some of you at Datsun
shows in the SF Bay Area and Shasta.

The point of this is I am also the original owner of a 1969 roadster,
SRL311-12388. My wife purchased it from Mayfield Car Co. the Datsun dealer
in Thousand Oaks Ca. in of March 1970.

The car started life in the same beige gray as the cover car from the 1969
Datsun brochure. It currently has 124598 miles on it and is ready for its
second restoration, the first was frame on in 1988 and the color was changed
to Nissan 013 Regatta Red. At that time the 5 speed was rebuilt with new
synchronizers and bearings. The engine short block and head was rebuilt by a
shop in San Diego... All new chains, tensioners and guides were used. All
was great until 2002 when it dropped a valve seat from the #1 exhaust valve,
and I parked it with every intention of getting it back on the road again. I
won't bother you with all the details of why I never got around to working
on it again, but now as a result the loss of my job, my home and finally a
stroke this year I have to face the fact that I will not be able to get her
back on the road again. I want the car to go to someone who knows what they
are and will get it back to burning gas and crushing bugs. That is why I am
offering it on the list first. 

 

Pictures can be seen at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Calsequoia/1969Datsun2000?feat=directlink
Please let me know if would like to see more and I'll see what I can do.

 

 

Along with the car I am including the following major parts:

 

-       Complete interior upholstery and carpet kit (new from Classic Datsun
Motorsports)

-       New dash cap

-       New windshield

-       New gear reduction starter.

-       New radiator, caps and hoses.

-       New complete timing set with all chains, tensioners and guides.

-       Complete Mikuni/Solex induction kit including "B" cam and polished
aluminum air cleaner with element and heat shield. 

-       New brake and clutch master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder.

-       Electronic distributor from Gary Boone. One of his last polished
units.

-       A complete rebuilt U20 short block. In addition to the block in the
car.

-       2 complete U20 heads.

-       A second complete 5 speed transmission.

-       New clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

-       New front parking, turn lamps.

-       New genuine Datsun locking gas cap

-       Many, many more small parts many new, some made from rare
unobtainium that I have been gathering over the years.

 

The car is located in Salinas, Ca. near Monterey. I am asking 10k for
everything. Please contact me off list at srl311_1969 at hotmail.com if you
have any questions or need more information.

 

Thank you much for your time, I look forward to hearing from you soon.

 

Richard

From srl311_1969 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 25 21:40:17 2009
From: srl311_1969 at hotmail.com (Richard Rudden)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:40:17 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] One owner 1969 SRL for sale
Message-ID: <BAY130-DS1E458D48CC604AB4977F2C9F70@phx.gbl>

My name is Richard Rudden and while I have seldom been active on the list
I've been on the list for around 10 years. I've met some of you at Datsun
shows in the SF Bay Area and Shasta.

The point of this is I am also the original owner of a 1969 roadster,
SRL311-12388. My wife purchased it from Mayfield Car Co. the Datsun dealer
in Thousand Oaks Ca. in of March 1970.

The car started life in the same beige gray as the cover car from the 1969
Datsun brochure. It currently has 124598 miles on it and is ready for its
second restoration, the first was frame on in 1988 and the color was changed
to Nissan 013 Regatta Red. At that time the 5 speed was rebuilt with new
synchronizers and bearings. The engine short block and head was rebuilt by a
shop in San Diego... All new chains, tensioners and guides were used. All
was great until 2002 when it dropped a valve seat from the #1 exhaust valve,
and I parked it with every intention of getting it back on the road again. I
won't bother you with all the details of why I never got around to working
on it again, but now as a result the loss of my job, my home and finally a
stroke this year I have to face the fact that I will not be able to get her
back on the road again. I want the car to go to someone who knows what they
are and will get it back to burning gas and crushing bugs. That is why I am
offering it on the list first. 

 

Pictures can be seen at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Calsequoia/1969Datsun2000?feat=directlink
Please let me know if would like to see more and I'll see what I can do.

 

 

Along with the car I am including the following major parts:

 

-       Complete interior upholstery and carpet kit (new from Classic Datsun
Motorsports)

-       New dash cap

-       New windshield

-       New gear reduction starter.

-       New radiator, caps and hoses.

-       New complete timing set with all chains, tensioners and guides.

-       Complete Mikuni/Solex induction kit including "B" cam and polished
aluminum air cleaner with element and heat shield. 

-       New brake and clutch master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder.

-       Electronic distributor from Gary Boone. One of his last polished
units.

-       A complete rebuilt U20 short block. In addition to the block in the
car.

-       2 complete U20 heads.

-       A second complete 5 speed transmission.

-       New clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

-       New front parking, turn lamps.

-       New genuine Datsun locking gas cap

-       Many, many more small parts many new, some made from rare
unobtainium that I have been gathering over the years.

 

The car is located in Salinas, Ca. near Monterey. I am asking 10k for
everything. Please contact me off list at srl311_1969 at hotmail.com if you
have any questions or need more information.

 

Thank you much for your time, I look forward to hearing from you soon.

 

Richard

From tputland at charter.net  Wed Aug 26 16:18:23 2009
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 15:18:23 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
Message-ID: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>

I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend. After strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on an uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto a flat area, the car started back up and I was able to drive home. 

Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first time a few weeks ago. 

When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the flow seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind of hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.

I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel filter. This fuel filter looks fine.

any other thoughts on this issue?

TIA

Tim

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Wed Aug 26 16:46:11 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:46:11 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
In-Reply-To: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
References: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
Message-ID: <8CBF4B624987E4C-C7C-40199@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>

 Check to see if it is leaking gas out the bottom weep hole. Also you might open up the top lid and see if the black rubber piece looks OK or has a hole in it (hold up to the light). You can get those parts from Nissan. Be sure to tighten the screws back down tight.
BTDT

Linda


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2009 3:18 pm
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...










I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend. After 
strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on an uphill 
and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto a flat area, the 
car started back up and I was able to drive home. 

Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first time a 
few weeks ago. 

When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the flow 
seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind of 
hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.

I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel filter. 
This fuel filter looks fine.

any other thoughts on this issue?

TIA

Tim
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at aim.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From fairlady66 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 26 17:45:40 2009
From: fairlady66 at gmail.com (Chris & Christy Breyer)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 16:45:40 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
In-Reply-To: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
References: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
Message-ID: <b0b0059f0908261645m3e05b366p214962e3d6155d5@mail.gmail.com>

Happened to me a couple of times. I went crazy trying to figure it out.
there was a very small hole in my (Rubber) fuel line. it was sucking air
under a load.  I cut the line and it was fine until it wore throgh again. I
finally fixed the problem and replaced the hose.   No problems, runs great.

Chris

On Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 3:18 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend.
> After strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on
> an uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto a
> flat area, the car started back up and I was able to drive home.
>
> Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first time
> a few weeks ago.
>
> When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the
> flow seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind
> of hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.
>
> I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel
> filter. This fuel filter looks fine.
>
> any other thoughts on this issue?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.

From ljordan704 at aim.com  Wed Aug 26 18:03:03 2009
From: ljordan704 at aim.com (ljordan704 at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 20:03:03 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
In-Reply-To: <b0b0059f0908261645m3e05b366p214962e3d6155d5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
	<b0b0059f0908261645m3e05b366p214962e3d6155d5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CBF4C0E1A67C02-3B08-6504@webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com>

Also all the clamps have to be tight for the same reason. Funny I used to have a similar problem with the old glass fuel bowls on my previous early car,...would not seal if gasket had dried out.
Carb fuel bowls need a good seal too...

Linda


-----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Christy Breyer <fairlady66 at gmail.com>
To: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
Cc: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2009 4:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...








Happened to me a couple of times. I went crazy trying to figure it out.
there was a very small hole in my (Rubber) fuel line. it was sucking air
under a load.  I cut the line and it was fine until it wore throgh again. I
finally fixed the problem and replaced the hose.   No problems, runs great.

Chris

On Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 3:18 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend.
> After strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on
> an uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto a
> flat area, the car started back up and I was able to drive home.
>
> Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first time
> a few weeks ago.
>
> When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the
> flow seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind
> of hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.
>
> I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel
> filter. This fuel filter looks fine.
>
> any other thoughts on this issue?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as fairlady66 at gmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
>



-- 
Our Classic Rides:
'66 1600
'70 521
'73 Mustang
Riverside, CA
------------------------------------------------------
If you are lucky enough to stand next to a Datsun, then you are lucky
enough.
You are subscribed as ljordan704 at netscape.net

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 26 20:21:50 2009
From: gtpjimgammon at yahoo.com (Jim Gammon)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:21:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
In-Reply-To: <077EFA7493104D7382F4BCEA21B9F32B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <869224.11732.qm@web51108.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Sorry for the late response, but consider tin plating.
 
Tin is used much more outside the USA for some reason, but is really underused
here.
 
It protects against rust, is a thicker coating than most plating, and works
better, longer than zinc, in my experience. It also makes the part look almost
like cast stainless, especially castings and forgings.
 
Jim
NJ 69 2K

--- On Sat, 8/22/09, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] gas filler neck
To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, August 22, 2009, 10:20 PM


ceramic coating???

----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat Horne" <pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu>
To: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
Cc: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net"
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] gas filler neck


> You might consider taking it to a plating shop and see what they would
charge you to plate it with something non-rusting, such as galvanizing, cad
plating, or the like.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Thusly spake Tim, On 8/22/2009 1:54 PM:
>> I have an organic rust remover that works great. My concern is the rust
re-appearing. Whould I not worry about that, or should I treat with some thing
to inhibit and then have to worry about that stuff eventually getting lose and
into the tank...
>> --
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From hahlbohmd at earthlink.net  Wed Aug 26 21:50:51 2009
From: hahlbohmd at earthlink.net (Dewey Hahlbohm)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:50:51 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
Message-ID: <26525614.1251345051760.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Tim, I think you are on the right track, it does sound like fuel starvation.  I had a similar problem after installing Solex carbs on my motor.  Turned out the fuel return line was taking too much gas back, the rear carb was starving.  It would run good for about 30 seconds, then started to lose power.  I put a small diameter pan head screw in the opening of the steel return line and reattached the rubber hose, problem solved.   Good luck, Dewey  

-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
>Sent: Aug 26, 2009 4:18 PM
>To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
>
>I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend. After strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on an uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto a flat area, the car started back up and I was able to drive home. 
>
>Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first time a few weeks ago. 
>
>When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the flow seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind of hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.
>
>I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel filter. This fuel filter looks fine.
>
>any other thoughts on this issue?
>
>TIA
>
>Tim
>________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>You are subscribed as hahlbohmd at earthlink.net
>
>Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From Frank.L.May at umsl.edu  Thu Aug 27 06:50:13 2009
From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu (May, Frank)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 07:50:13 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
References: <20090826181823.8IS2I.4057105.root@mp05>
Message-ID: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F88@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>

The symptoms sound like what I experienced years ago while driving an ancient
Volvo during sub-zero weather.  The car was running fine, and suddenly I could
go no faster than about 30 MPH - definitely got my attention when the
temperature outside was  minus 10F.  The cause was "gas line freeze" which was
alleviated by pulling into a service bay and dumping a de-icer into the fuel.
Presumably you weren't driving under those conditions, but the symptoms
suggest a restriction in the fuel line.

Look for something simple first (like a rubber hose which has swollen
internally or kinked)....you can always look later for something complicated.
Happy hunting!

Frank
SRL311-12936

________________________________

From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of Tim
Sent: Wed 8/26/2009 5:18 PM
To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...



I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend. After
strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was on an
uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto a flat
area, the car started back up and I was able to drive home.

Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first time a
few weeks ago.

When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the
flow seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind of
hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.

I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel filter.
This fuel filter looks fine.

any other thoughts on this issue?

TIA

Tim
You are subscribed as frank.l.may at umsl.edu

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From larrybraddock at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 27 12:30:37 2009
From: larrybraddock at ca.rr.com (Larry  Braddock)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:30:37 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
Message-ID: <A9C7E47CE5D142A6BF6295F7E1F7FD2E@owner4d7e0adce>

I'd check to be sure your tank is vented properly.
I've had that happen on other motors. Ran good for a while, then starved for
gas and die. Let it set a while, starts and runs good, then dies, etc.
I don't know where the vent is, but there has to be one somewhere.

Larry Braddock

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 27 12:45:51 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 13:45:51 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
References: <A9C7E47CE5D142A6BF6295F7E1F7FD2E@owner4d7e0adce>
Message-ID: <801C6141558640A1AEC45B4B26874B0D@ranteer.local>

i had a tr6 that did exactly that.  ran for a while, then just died.  open 
the vent cap (first thing you do - see if there is gas!), wait a minute, and 
it ran.  when i finally caught on i realized there was a sucking noise, like 
opening a vacuum, when i popped the gas cap.

the vent line, which ran under the car to a carbon cannister in the engine 
compartment (who thought that was a good idea???) ran by the exhaust (who 
thought that was a good idea???).  got too close, melted shut.  i replaced 
it with a steel line (i thought that was a good idea!!)

i know - who thought a tr6 was a good idea?????


(actually, i still have it and love it dearly)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Braddock" <larrybraddock at ca.rr.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 1:30 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000


> I'd check to be sure your tank is vented properly.
> I've had that happen on other motors. Ran good for a while, then starved 
> for
> gas and die. Let it set a while, starts and runs good, then dies, etc.
> I don't know where the vent is, but there has to be one somewhere.
>
> Larry Braddock 

From RWM at RWMann.com  Thu Aug 27 12:56:43 2009
From: RWM at RWMann.com (RWM)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 14:56:43 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
In-Reply-To: <801C6141558640A1AEC45B4B26874B0D@ranteer.local>
References: <A9C7E47CE5D142A6BF6295F7E1F7FD2E@owner4d7e0adce>
	<801C6141558640A1AEC45B4B26874B0D@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4A96D6EB.6030303@RWMann.com>

I didn't know Lucas made fuel lines, too.    ;-)



oliver wrote:
> i had a tr6 that did exactly that.  ran for a while, then just died.  
> open the vent cap (first thing you do - see if there is gas!), wait a 
> minute, and it ran.  when i finally caught on i realized there was a 
> sucking noise, like opening a vacuum, when i popped the gas cap.
>
> the vent line, which ran under the car to a carbon cannister in the 
> engine compartment (who thought that was a good idea???) ran by the 
> exhaust (who thought that was a good idea???).  got too close, melted 
> shut.  i replaced it with a steel line (i thought that was a good idea!!)
>
> i know - who thought a tr6 was a good idea?????
>
>
> (actually, i still have it and love it dearly)
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Braddock" 
> <larrybraddock at ca.rr.com>
> To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 1:30 PM
> Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
>
>
>> I'd check to be sure your tank is vented properly.
>> I've had that happen on other motors. Ran good for a while, then 
>> starved for
>> gas and die. Let it set a while, starts and runs good, then dies, etc.
>> I don't know where the vent is, but there has to be one somewhere.
>>
>> Larry Braddock

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Thu Aug 27 17:22:49 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 16:22:49 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Speedi-Sleeve #?
Message-ID: <F45BCD94D3A14EEA886D2754147B240E@Daryl>

Anyone have the # for the speedi sleeve used for the Roadster?

I'm assuming it would be the same for all 1500, 1600, 2000, and H20 cranks........

Thanks
Daryl

From aultgc at att.net  Thu Aug 27 19:42:58 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 20:42:58 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
References: <26525614.1251345051760.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <79A4CFCC9D50415B86832CF1808E817F@gaxp1>

With apologies to my friends at Greenpeace and the Sierra Club (LOL!), how 
about just lose the return line?  Remove the fuel return valve, change the 
inlet fitting to the rear carb and cap off the line back to the tank.

When I put the '69 U20 in my '66 1600, I removed the entire smog system, 
including the fuel return valve.  Never looked back.

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dewey Hahlbohm" <hahlbohmd at earthlink.net>
To: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>; "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" 
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...


> Tim, I think you are on the right track, it does sound like fuel 
> starvation.  I had a similar problem after installing Solex carbs on my 
> motor.  Turned out the fuel return line was taking too much gas back, the 
> rear carb was starving.  It would run good for about 30 seconds, then 
> started to lose power.  I put a small diameter pan head screw in the 
> opening of the steel return line and reattached the rubber hose, problem 
> solved.   Good luck, Dewey
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Tim <tputland at charter.net>
>>Sent: Aug 26, 2009 4:18 PM
>>To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
>>Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
>>
>>I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last weekend. 
>>After strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and freeway--I was 
>>on an uphill and started to lose power. After pulling around a corner onto 
>>a flat area, the car started back up and I was able to drive home.
>>
>>Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first 
>>time a few weeks ago.
>>
>>When I remove the plugs and spin the motor to see gas flow into a jar, the 
>>flow seems fine. The car seems to run just fine at idle. But I am now kind 
>>of hesitant to take her out without knowing what is up.
>>
>>I did put screens on the banjo bolts as well as a new see through fuel 
>>filter. This fuel filter looks fine.
>>
>>any other thoughts on this issue?
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>Tim
>>________________________________________
>>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>You are subscribed as hahlbohmd at earthlink.net
>>
>>Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>>
>>http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters 

From drlsmith at dccnet.com  Thu Aug 27 22:26:19 2009
From: drlsmith at dccnet.com (Daryl Smith)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:26:19 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  Speedi-Sleeve #?
Message-ID: <4D24C6ED3F674CF0A8E5C1FE3FC973AF@Daryl>

>> "speedi sleeve"  ?????
>
> Thanks Mike!
>
> For those that don't know, the speedi/redi/kwik sleeves are a thin 
> stainless
> steel sleeve which fits over the sealing surface of (in my case) the crank
> pulley/harmonic dampener when that surface is scored from the seal. It's
> pretty common and a quick easy fix without having to replace the
> pulley/dampener. (NOT dependent on crank as I previously posted.....)
>
> Ross Mullen has informed me that the 2L is different than the R series, or
> maybe just different depending on whether you use the R series pulley, or
> U20 dampener.......
>
> http://www.alliedbearings.com/mfg_prod/ ... index.html
>
> Daryl

From alvingogi at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 28 00:58:05 2009
From: alvingogi at hotmail.com (alvin gogineni)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 06:58:05 +0000
Subject: [Roadsters] More Cool JDM Roadster Video Clips
Message-ID: <SNT104-W73F6B31BC35259C51D242B5F50@phx.gbl>

Here are 2 clips of in-car action with a GC10 Skyline with what I think is an
S20 drivetrain. It is absolutely chilling hearing this guy go through the
gears....definitely not L-series powered. There are several other Datsuns on
the track, like a flared roadster(red).
See how many you can spot! Will ulpoad part 3 tomorrow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JspqMvh-cm0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeAGVUAve1o

This is a clip of a gathering and fun run with a green roadster in it and a
bunch of other cool Datsuns.
Great sounds, drive-bys etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4irND7HATw
Enjoy!

Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20


_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From datsundoc at aol.com  Fri Aug 28 06:14:07 2009
From: datsundoc at aol.com (datsundoc at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 08:14:07 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] More Cool JDM Roadster Video Clips
In-Reply-To: <SNT104-W73F6B31BC35259C51D242B5F50@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT104-W73F6B31BC35259C51D242B5F50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CBF5F02CED4A7F-23C4-6B68@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>

Sounds like it could be an L-series to me. This is from inside my 240Z with the "milder" of my two engines.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8iI0B5G80I

Mike




-----Original Message-----
From: alvin gogineni <alvingogi at hotmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Aug 28, 2009 2:58 am
Subject: [Roadsters] More Cool JDM Roadster Video Clips




Here are 2 clips of in-car action with a GC10 Skyline with what I think is an
S20 drivetrain. It is absolutely chilling hearing this guy go through the
gears....definitely not L-series powered. There are several other Datsuns on
the track, like a flared roadster(red).
See how many you can spot! Will ulpoad part 3 tomorrow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JspqMvh-cm0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeAGVUAve1o

This is a clip of a gathering and fun run with a green roadster in it and a
bunch of other cool Datsuns.
Great sounds, drive-bys etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4irND7HATw
Enjoy!

Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
67.5 SPL/SR20


_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1
You are subscribed as datsundoc at aol.com

Datsun-roadsters mailing list

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/datsun-roadsters

From chalsted at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 06:51:30 2009
From: chalsted at comcast.net (chalsted at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:51:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Watkins Glen need head count for Hazlitt dinner saturday
Message-ID: <1073247175.3900981251463890601.JavaMail.root@sz0034a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

we only have around a dozen folks committed to the BBQ at Hazlitt saturday night... really needs to be 30 to 40 to make it work for the caterer, if you plan to go or know anyone else who plans to go whether on the list or not, please have them contact me so we can have a better head count and hopefully enough people to make it work 

Thanks- 

Craig and Elaine 

From vze2fhba at verizon.net  Fri Aug 28 08:26:42 2009
From: vze2fhba at verizon.net (vze2fhba at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 09:26:42 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Watkins Glen need head count for Hazlitt dinner
 saturday
Message-ID: <340631399.693420.1251469603022.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net>


From twobeaners at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 28 08:31:37 2009
From: twobeaners at earthlink.net (MH)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 09:31:37 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw:  Speedi-Sleeve #?
References: <4D24C6ED3F674CF0A8E5C1FE3FC973AF@Daryl>
Message-ID: <006401ca27ec$40a3c440$6400a8c0@LAP120>

They aren't cheap, but according to info from one source, (can't put my
finger on it directly) they were designed to "reduce down time for fleet
vehicles", like busses, etc.

If I can find the info, I'll post it. You can also find these sleeves, on
Amazon.com at pretty good prices. I paid $34 for the 99177 to fix a
persistent leak at the differential pinion yoke. The PO had replaced the
Nissan seal (which is nearly 1/2" wide) with the more standard and commonly
available "lip" type seal, very narrow, like a knife edge. There was a
groove worn in the yoke. A new Nissan seal reduced the seapage, but didn't
completely eliminate it until I installed the sleeve.

I've also used one of these sleeves on my tandem axle boat trailer. I had
spun a bearing, worn the race down to a razor blade, and grooved the axle
beyond useablity. The sleeve fixed it right up.
Mike Hudson


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daryl Smith" <drlsmith at dccnet.com>
To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 11:26 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Fw: Speedi-Sleeve #?


> >> "speedi sleeve"  ?????
> >
> > Thanks Mike!
> >
> > For those that don't know, the speedi/redi/kwik sleeves are a thin
> > stainless
> > steel sleeve which fits over the sealing surface of (in my case) the
crank
> > pulley/harmonic dampener when that surface is scored from the seal. It's
> > pretty common and a quick easy fix without having to replace the
> > pulley/dampener. (NOT dependent on crank as I previously posted.....)
> >
> > Ross Mullen has informed me that the 2L is different than the R series,
or
> > maybe just different depending on whether you use the R series pulley,
or
> > U20 dampener.......
> >
> > http://www.alliedbearings.com/mfg_prod/ ... index.html
> >
> > Daryl

From sandhoff at csus.edu  Fri Aug 28 09:55:54 2009
From: sandhoff at csus.edu (John F Sandhoff)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 08:55:54 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Return fuel line (was: when I got stranded by the
	2000...)
In-Reply-To: <79A4CFCC9D50415B86832CF1808E817F@gaxp1>
Message-ID: <4A979B9A.9324.1D7DED@localhost>

It was suggested:
> how about just lose the return line?  Remove the fuel return valve,
> change the inlet fitting to the rear carb and cap off the line back to
> the tank.

Not trying to start any flames, and with all due respect, but the return
line is not some smog gizmo but is actually something that you want
in place. Nissan added it to reduce the possibility of vapor locking on
hot days. It allows the fuel to 'keep moving', reducing the risk of the
fuel vaporizing inside the fuel line before the carb and starving the
engine.

One point of note is that the return valve (the gadget mounted on the
rear carb) limits how much fuel goes back to the tank, and on very
rare occasions has been reported to stick open and allow too much
fuel to bypass the carbs.

On the 1970 ONLY model, there are additional separator tanks
and vent plumbing and air flow solenoids and such that are part
of the vapor recovery efforts. Overall its presence doesn't affect
performance and may marginally make the cars cleaner, so IMHO
there's nothing to gain by ripping it out...

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff at csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

p.s. I didn't think a '66 model year vehicle had any smog equipment,
save for the PCV system (which again IMHO is a good thing to have)

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 12:41:48 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 18:41:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] when I got stranded by the 2000...
In-Reply-To: <1123206928.3250181251484684498.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1191056121.3251791251484908035.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Double-check those fuel lines. Another person on another forum described the same problem and went through all the same troubleshooting you've done and/or be directed to do. The solution? 

"Thanks for all the advice guys. It was the rubber line between the pump and the filter. It looked fine from both ends but when I cut it in half the opening was warped into a small flat hole. Sucks how a 25 cent piece of hose can cause 3 weeks of frustration."

Cheers.

Pete

From aultgc at att.net  Fri Aug 28 13:22:52 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:22:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Roadsters] Return fuel line (was: when I got stranded by the
 2000...)
In-Reply-To: <4A979B9A.9324.1D7DED@localhost>
References: <4A979B9A.9324.1D7DED@localhost>
Message-ID: <248093.95113.qm@web180210.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

John,

Good explanation.  I did not know that.  However, the '69 U20 motor in
my '66 1600 runs fine without the return line.  Of course, I have taken great
pains to make sure the fuel line from the pump to the carbs is routed in areas
as cool as possible.

One thing I find interesting.  My '66 U20 seems to be
cooler under the hood than my '67-1/2 U20 Solex.  Man, the '67 get's hot!  Hot
enough that the hood prop rod can be painful.  The engine itself runs cool
enough -- never seen it over 200 even stopped in traffic in downtown LA.  And
the '67-1/2 is hard to start if it sits for a while after getting hot.  Figure
it is vapor lock, so I generally open the hood, as long as I can keep an eye
on it.

Gary



________________________________
From: John F Sandhoff
<sandhoff at csus.edu>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August
28, 2009 10:55:54 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Return fuel line (was: when I got
stranded by the 2000...)

It was suggested:
> how about just lose the return
line?  Remove the fuel return valve,
> change the inlet fitting to the rear
carb and cap off the line back to
> the tank.

Not trying to start any flames,
and with all due respect, but the return
line is not some smog gizmo but is
actually something that you want
in place. Nissan added it to reduce the
possibility of vapor locking on
hot days. It allows the fuel to 'keep moving',
reducing the risk of the
fuel vaporizing inside the fuel line before the carb
and starving the
engine.

One point of note is that the return valve (the
gadget mounted on the
rear carb) limits how much fuel goes back to the tank,
and on very
rare occasions has been reported to stick open and allow too much
fuel to bypass the carbs.

On the 1970 ONLY model, there are additional
separator tanks
and vent plumbing and air flow solenoids and such that are
part
of the vapor recovery efforts. Overall its presence doesn't affect
performance and may marginally make the cars cleaner, so IMHO
there's nothing
to gain by ripping it out...

-- John
    John F Sandhoff  sandhoff at csus.edu 
Sacramento, CA

p.s. I didn't think a '66 model year vehicle had any smog
equipment,
save for the PCV system (which again IMHO is a good thing to have)
________________________________________
Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as aultgc at att.net
Datsun-roadsters mailing list

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From larrybraddock at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 28 15:26:42 2009
From: larrybraddock at ca.rr.com (Larry  Braddock)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 14:26:42 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Selling my 2000
Message-ID: <92769E4C791948529FBFB07531448F7A@owner4d7e0adce>

Selling my 2000. runs very strong, could use some work on body, int.
craigslist los angeles---east hollywood (90029)

From RacerY at comcast.net  Sat Aug 29 10:12:33 2009
From: RacerY at comcast.net (Toby B)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 09:12:33 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] Fuel return line
Message-ID: <1a8733b20908290912m7721954fq55c7c4fb0dc795ef@mail.gmail.com>

On my 68, the limiting valve had been completely removed, and
in the event of a steep hill, the return line would bypass ALL the fuel.

A little 1/16" restrictor fixed it.

Yes, you do want to leave the return line, if it's there. Unless you
live somewhere
cool and close to sea level...

Toby

"One point of note is that the return valve (the gadget mounted on the
rear carb) limits how much fuel goes back to the tank, and on very
rare occasions has been reported to stick open and allow too much
fuel to bypass the carbs. "

From RacerY at comcast.net  Sat Aug 29 10:18:32 2009
From: RacerY at comcast.net (Toby B)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 09:18:32 -0700
Subject: [Roadsters] fuel starvation
Message-ID: <1a8733b20908290918mb599154td9186fdb21ec589@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, that sounds like what happened to me when the PO removed the
restrictor valve, too.  I'd look at that while you're looking for air leaks...

One other thing- do you have a fuel filter ahead of the pump?
I've had (funny, a Volvo, too) a car that had crud in the tank.
It'd run for a while, then a bit of crud would get into the pump and
wedge the valves in it open, and I'd starve for fuel.  Often, a bit of cranking
would get it going again, only to have it happen a few miles later.

I put a filter in front of the pump, and never had a problem again.  I don't
think I ever even changed that filter...

hth,

Toby

"I put what should have been a good fuel pump on the 2000 last
weekend. After strong running for a couple dozen miles--in town and
freeway--I was on an uphill and started to lose power. After pulling
around a corner onto a flat area, the car started back up and I was
able to drive home.

Connie commented that I was on an uphill when I was stranded the first
time a few weeks ago."

From rksmith46 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 29 19:56:44 2009
From: rksmith46 at hotmail.com (robert k. smith)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 21:56:44 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
In-Reply-To: <4A96D6EB.6030303@RWMann.com>
References: <A9C7E47CE5D142A6BF6295F7E1F7FD2E@owner4d7e0adce>
	<801C6141558640A1AEC45B4B26874B0D@ranteer.local> 
	<4A96D6EB.6030303@RWMann.com>
Message-ID: <BAY124-W420D4A22C4EC8FF638F5A7BFF30@phx.gbl>

hi oliver, i love tr6s. ive always admired the styling. right after



i got my 69 2000,(in 1970), i saw the tr6 and wished i could have



that body, with the u20 engine and 5 speed in it. keep the tr6.



its a sweet ride.    bob smith ohio.


> Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 14:56:43 -0400
> From: RWM at RWMann.com
> To: sumton at sbcglobal.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
>
> I didn't know Lucas made fuel lines, too. ;-)
>
>
>
> oliver wrote:
> > i had a tr6 that did exactly that. ran for a while, then just died.
> > open the vent cap (first thing you do - see if there is gas!), wait a
> > minute, and it ran. when i finally caught on i realized there was a
> > sucking noise, like opening a vacuum, when i popped the gas cap.
> >
> > the vent line, which ran under the car to a carbon cannister in the
> > engine compartment (who thought that was a good idea???) ran by the
> > exhaust (who thought that was a good idea???). got too close, melted
> > shut. i replaced it with a steel line (i thought that was a good idea!!)
> >
> > i know - who thought a tr6 was a good idea?????
> >
> >
> > (actually, i still have it and love it dearly)
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Braddock"
> > <larrybraddock at ca.rr.com>
> > To: <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 1:30 PM
> > Subject: [Roadsters] re stranded 2000
> >
> >
> >> I'd check to be sure your tank is vented properly.
> >> I've had that happen on other motors. Ran good for a while, then
> >> starved for
> >> gas and die. Let it set a while, starts and runs good, then dies, etc.
> >> I don't know where the vent is, but there has to be one somewhere.
> >>
> >> Larry Braddock
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rksmith46 at hotmail.com
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>
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From rksmith46 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 29 21:03:29 2009
From: rksmith46 at hotmail.com (robert k. smith)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 23:03:29 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
In-Reply-To: <2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
References: <B2E2E25EFB714A78982C81B4CFB19BE2@XPLaptop>
	<2FC84732E041AB4FA4718514408A931304596F7D@stl-mail4.stl.umsl.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY124-W1910984A03E108C2FCA105BFF30@phx.gbl>

hi frank, i just rebuilt a frozen engine, and the key to getting it free

is to remove the crank shaft, so you can work on each piston

by itself.(soak w/ penetrating oil for days, then use a cut down

2X4 piece of wood, and at least a 2 lb. hammer) if you dont remove

the crank shaft, you are trying to move all 4 stuck pistons at the

same time. btw, i was able to re use the stock pistons, and just

hone the cyls.(a lot). a .020 over bore and new pistons are nice

if your budget allows. good luck, bob smith, ohio


> Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:03:33 -0500
> From: Frank.L.May at umsl.edu
> To: barterdude at comcast.net; datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Second Posting
>
> My '69 2000 has been sitting since about 1974 when the motor was last
turned
> over. I've talked with a machinist about tearing it down and restoring. I
> put a wrench on the vibration damper nut and tried to turn, but it's stuck.
> Any thoughts on how to get it unstuck without first pulling the head? I've
> shot lots of oil/WD40/carb cleaner into the spark plug sockets, but without
> results so far.
>
> Frank May
> SRL311-12936
>
> ________________________________
> ________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rksmith46 at hotmail.com
>
> Datsun-roadsters mailing list
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From dscrib2 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 30 07:24:16 2009
From: dscrib2 at hotmail.com (Dana Scribner)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 09:24:16 -0400
Subject: [Roadsters] (no subject)
Message-ID: <COL105-W15BD6C19B14BED2B34030CF0F30@phx.gbl>

I got this email from fellow Roadster buddy Derek. Maybe someone is
interested.


I am holding the Block Island Motoring Event again this year on Saturday
September 26 rain date the 27th from 11:30 AM to 2:30 PM at the Oar in New
Harbor on BI. For cars ferry reservations can be made at 401-783-4613 x 112
ask for Jeanette and tell her you are coming for the event. Drivers will get a
complementary ferry passenger ticket, and a T-shirt and BBQ lunch at the
event. For passengers no reservations are necessary. This event benefit's the
Block island Early Learning Center, our pre-school and day care facility. Most
of the hotels have fall room specials available now and some combine dinner
specials as well. I can be contacted at 401-741-4987 or my e-mail address
Dvllandscape at aol.com. I hope to see you here someday soon.


Derek A. van Lent, '68 2000
_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
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From edmitche at gmail.com  Sun Aug 30 17:39:17 2009
From: edmitche at gmail.com (Ed Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 17:39:17 -0600
Subject: [Roadsters] the price is right
Message-ID: <4a9b0d97.9613f30a.20d4.2437@mx.google.com>

Hi All.I was makin' windows Sales sticker replica.('cause I'm all "AR") 

 

But

 

found DatsunBucky 's version on 311s.org... sadly it took someone to point
it out to me. 

 

but.I'm morphing a few versions together.and it looks pretty good.(and "any
input" would be greatly appreciated - if it's not really something that
looks like a 1967 era version.I think with some visual aging.(wrinkling,
folding, coffee staining, givin' it to the dog..etc.maybe)

 

A visual on my webshot page..  1st cell

 

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559322539UXctqG

 

 

if anyone's interested in a copy.you can always alter it to fit your own
needs .it's an MS excel file

 

but..somewhere I saw the original sale price of a 1967 datsun roadster.might
someone know where that information is?

 

Seems I saw original sale price was like $2250.00 for a 67 1600 (guessing
tho)

 

 

 

Thanks

 

Ed Mitchell

From ppeters914 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 30 23:26:12 2009
From: ppeters914 at comcast.net (Pete Peters)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 05:26:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Roadsters] Slightly OT: HTKYDA
In-Reply-To: <c36.58931121.37cc7c9b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <492493581.3921341251696372316.JavaMail.root@sz0115a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Cheap copy of the How to keep your Datsun alive manual on eBay. 

<http://tinyurl.com/nksy5e>

From aultgc at att.net  Mon Aug 31 10:15:52 2009
From: aultgc at att.net (Gary and Cindy Ault)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:15:52 -0500
Subject: [Roadsters] '65-'67 Roadster on eBay
Message-ID: <2025CFC8ED0F4A31A71357D0E0C92727@gaxp1>

Check out Item 260469974233 on eBay.  The body is clearly a '65-'67 (don't
know which), but it has a dash with an interesting combination of '65-'67
features and '67-1/2 features.  Anyone ever see something like this before?  A
factory anomaly?

Gary