[Roadsters] Ball joint removal, tool source?

[Gary McCormick]

In the words of one of the old-time riggers at our launch test site, to a younger coworker: "Don't use a hammer, man - use your head!"

Get the tool, do it right. Replacement parts for these babies do not grow on trees.

Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA
'70 2000 SRL311-13291

Bubba <bubwin at mts.net> wrote: You don't usually need one if you have 2 good sized hammers.  I use a 2 1/2 
lb ball pien and a 4 pound drilling hammer (short handled sledge), but 2 of 
the 2 1/2 lb ball piens will work.  Small hammers do not have enough mass.

Here's how.

-Remove the cotter pin
-Loosen the castle nut, but do not remove it, it prevents things from flying 
and protects the threads from errant hammer blows.
-Place the drilling hammer on the back side of the knuckle where the taper 
goes through.
-Strike the side opposite the drilling hammer.  Don't be shy with the hammer 
blows, it's a strong casting.
-The drilling hammer will bounce from the force, so make sure it's still in 
place each swing of the ball pien.
-The concussion usually pops it loose after a few good blows.

And yes it works on tie rods too!

Bob Winslade
1966-1600 Missy
1967-1600 Bender

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "O'Farrell, Fergus" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Ball joint removal, tool source?


> Not sure if this link will work (can't test it from here at work), but
> does anyone know where to find one of these ball-joint removal tools?
>
> http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f45/mgslayer/Front%20Suspension%2009-2
> 006/MVC-155S.jpg
>
> I think I still have a pickle fork, but don't want to damage my ball
> joints, as they are going to be re-used for the moment.  (just doing a
> full boot replacement job)
>
> Thanks,
> FergO, 69 2000, HB, CA
> ________________________________________
>
> bubwin at mts.net
>
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