[Bricklin] Help - wheel bearings

[diraxel at hush.com]

Thanks for your answers,
If I understand correctly, "repack the bearing" is about the grease?
Yes of course, it was properly repacked, old school style by hand, by
my mech buddy.
I didn't manage to identify what are the bearing races (I tried with
the parts catalog), but for sure these were not replaced since only
the bearings A2, A6 and 7022S seal were. However, the "housing" of the
bearing was scratch free when the new stuff was put inside it.

I was mistaken, the nut was backed off about 1/4 turn, not half, so
this may have been too tight compared to your recommended 1/2 turn.
On Tuesday, August 18, 2015 at 10:36 PM, "John T. Blair"  wrote:At
05:22 PM 8/18/2015, diraxel at hush.com wrote:

 >I replaced my wheel bearings (A2, A6 + seal 7022S, all from 
National (Federal
 >Mogul I believe)) before I took on a 680 mile trip.  The passenger 
side started to
 >be noisy after 375 miles, to become a non stopping loud noise.
Around 400+
 >miles, from times to times, the car started to steer to the right 
with an added
 >noise. Just a couple of times actually since I quickly deemed this
was not
 >sustainable and quickly pulled over. .....

 >When the bearings were replaced, the tightening torque was checked
on
 >internet and 2 values were found: 1/4 circle and 1/2 circle.  I 
think 1/2 circle was
 >used.

Eric,

The first comment is, did you repack the bearing?  Then if so did you 
use a bearing packer and grease gun, or did you do it by 
hand?  Personally I've always
used a bearing packer and grease gun.

Did you put a lot of surplus grease in the center of the hub?  You
should.

 >Anyway, I got to re-purchase the bearings and replace them. Would
you
 >have any knowledge about the tightening torque please?

Assuming that you did pack the bearing, I usually take the nut up 
snug then back
off 1/2 turn.

 From my AMC maintenance manual:

Place the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer 
bearing.   Install the wheel bearing nut and tighten it until the hub 
binds while turning.  Back off the nut about 1/6 - 1/4 turn to free 
the bearing.  Install new cotter pin.

So I guess it depends on how tight you originally tightened the nut.

 >What I think is odd are the followings:
 >- if the bearings were bad / tightening torque wrong, both sides 
should have failed
 >  within the first 60 miles
 >- why only the passenger side failed and not the driver? A faulty
 >  bearing is possible but isn't much probable

As to why it failed, that is a good question.  Did you hit a bad pot 
hole, or something in the road?  It's possible that you over 
tightened the nut so when
you back it off, it didn't loosen enough.  Or as you said it could
have been a
bad bearing.  Did you replace the races?  It's possible that the race 
was scratched
when installing it, especially if you did it with a drift and hammer 
instead of with a
press.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
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