From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Dec 10 08:39:40 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2011 10:39:40 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Sad News - Charles Russell Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20111210103426.04f85478@cox.net> I know some of you don't follow the forums, so you may have missed the posting about Charles Russell's passing. For those of you that don't know who Charlie was, he's the fellow that wrote and sung the sonb about the Bricklin. You can hear the song here: http://www.bricklin.org/BI_BricklinSong.htm Thanks to Stuart Zukrow for finding Charlie's Obituary: http://www.inmemoriam.ca/view-announcement-266306-charles-russell.html John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From breton48 at live.com Sat Dec 10 11:43:34 2011 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2011 11:43:34 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Holley Carburetor for 351 Windsor Message-ID: Hi... I receive one or two request per week regarding the Holley Carburetor Terry Tanner recommends, so here we are: Terry told me to buy the Holley 500 CFM double barrel model 0-4412C or 0-4412S. The only difference between the two is that the C model is shiny while the S model is not. For some reason, the shiny model seems to be usually a few dollars less than the other version. Terry told me most local auto parts shops (AutoZone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly, etc.) would have it, and that there would be little difference in price between them and online stores that would also carry this item, such as Summit. In the end, I bought mine from Summit. Terry told me switching from the Motorcraft to the Holley carburetor always results in improved driveability and performance from the stock 351 Windsor engine. This carburetor has a manual choke. Terry told me he usually ties the choke lever back in the open position. Apparently the engine will start in cold conditions without the choke on. Terry has one customer in Detroit who reported no problems starting his Bricklin with the no choke Holley. I assume it would be rather easy to install a cable, but that would mean drilling another hole in the dash and/or the firewall and I would rather not do that, so I will try the "no choke" method. I placed the carburetor on the manifold, and so far I can only see a couple of problems: the fuel inlet is just in front of the coil, and it seems as I will have to move the coil to the firewall. Not a bad idea to start with, as I never liked the idea of the coil sitting right on top of the engine. Also, while the Holley carburetor comes with the Ford kickdown lever, the original Bricklin throttle cable seems just a tad too long to fit to the Holley throttle linkage. I think Terry told me something about that, but I was not taking notes while taking to him, and I might have to call him again. There might be an adapter available. I will have a blanking plate made for the now unused choke heat riser plate on the manifold. The Holley does not look as high as the original Motocraft 2150, so there should be no problems with hood clearance. If the air cleaner does not clear the linkages, there is a spacer available from Holley. Holley's paperwork gives very clear instructions on how to install the carburetor. Holley also has videos online giving very thorough instructions on how to set up Holley carburetors (search HolleyTV.com). Finally, the Holley paperwork states this carburetor is not suitable for the AOD transmission. JLC #2121 From isensee at aol.com Sat Dec 10 14:51:06 2011 From: isensee at aol.com (Scott Isensee) Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2011 14:51:06 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Holley Carburetor for 351 Windsor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03195E4C-5A6D-4A0E-B921-8AA74C6BBD94@aol.com> You can get an automatic choke kit for the Holley carb. I put that on mine and it works fine. I initially drove it with the choke open, but the engine stumbled a bit when cold that way. Scott Sent from my iPhone On Dec 10, 2011, at 11:43 AM, JLC wrote: > Hi... I receive one or two request per week regarding the Holley Carburetor > Terry Tanner recommends, so here we are: Terry told me to buy the Holley > 500 CFM double barrel model 0-4412C or 0-4412S. The only difference between > the two is that the C model is shiny while the S model is not. For some > reason, the shiny model seems to be usually a few dollars less than the > other version. Terry told me most local auto parts shops (AutoZone, Pep > Boys, O'Reilly, etc.) would have it, and that there would be little > difference in price between them and online stores that would also carry > this item, such as Summit. In the end, I bought mine from Summit. > > Terry told me switching from the Motorcraft to the Holley carburetor always > results in improved driveability and performance from the stock 351 Windsor > engine. > > This carburetor has a manual choke. Terry told me he usually ties the choke > lever back in the open position. Apparently the engine will start in cold > conditions without the choke on. Terry has one customer in Detroit who > reported no problems starting his Bricklin with the no choke Holley. I > assume it would be rather easy to install a cable, but that would mean > drilling another hole in the dash and/or the firewall and I would rather not > do that, so I will try the "no choke" method. > > I placed the carburetor on the manifold, and so far I can only see a couple > of problems: the fuel inlet is just in front of the coil, and it seems as I > will have to move the coil to the firewall. Not a bad idea to start with, > as I never liked the idea of the coil sitting right on top of the engine. > Also, while the Holley carburetor comes with the Ford kickdown lever, the > original Bricklin throttle cable seems just a tad too long to fit to the > Holley throttle linkage. I think Terry told me something about that, but I > was not taking notes while taking to him, and I might have to call him > again. There might be an adapter available. I will have a blanking plate > made for the now unused choke heat riser plate on the manifold. The Holley > does not look as high as the original Motocraft 2150, so there should be no > problems with hood clearance. If the air cleaner does not clear the > linkages, there is a spacer available from Holley. > > Holley's paperwork gives very clear instructions on how to install the > carburetor. Holley also has videos online giving very thorough instructions > on how to set up Holley carburetors (search HolleyTV.com). > > Finally, the Holley paperwork states this carburetor is not suitable for the > AOD transmission. > > JLC #2121 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From isensee at aol.com Sat Dec 10 18:24:46 2011 From: isensee at aol.com (Scott Isensee) Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2011 18:24:46 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Holley Carburetor for 351 Windsor In-Reply-To: References: <03195E4C-5A6D-4A0E-B921-8AA74C6BBD94@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B751FEC-444D-45E3-862B-A77EE2B52C71@aol.com> 45-224 http://www.holley.com/45-224.asp Scott Sent from my iPhone On Dec 10, 2011, at 5:32 PM, Robert Daley wrote: > Hi, do you know the part number for the automatic choke kit? > > Thanks, Bob Daley > > On Dec 10, 2011, at 4:51 PM, Scott Isensee wrote: > >> You can get an automatic choke kit for the Holley carb. I put that on mine and >> it works fine. I initially drove it with the choke open, but the engine >> stumbled a bit when cold that way. >> >> Scott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Dec 10, 2011, at 11:43 AM, JLC wrote: >> >>> Hi... I receive one or two request per week regarding the Holley Carburetor >>> Terry Tanner recommends, so here we are: Terry told me to buy the Holley >>> 500 CFM double barrel model 0-4412C or 0-4412S. The only difference >> between >>> the two is that the C model is shiny while the S model is not. For some >>> reason, the shiny model seems to be usually a few dollars less than the >>> other version. Terry told me most local auto parts shops (AutoZone, Pep >>> Boys, O'Reilly, etc.) would have it, and that there would be little >>> difference in price between them and online stores that would also carry >>> this item, such as Summit. In the end, I bought mine from Summit. >>> >>> Terry told me switching from the Motorcraft to the Holley carburetor always >>> results in improved driveability and performance from the stock 351 Windsor >>> engine. >>> >>> This carburetor has a manual choke. Terry told me he usually ties the choke >>> lever back in the open position. Apparently the engine will start in cold >>> conditions without the choke on. Terry has one customer in Detroit who >>> reported no problems starting his Bricklin with the no choke Holley. I >>> assume it would be rather easy to install a cable, but that would mean >>> drilling another hole in the dash and/or the firewall and I would rather >> not >>> do that, so I will try the "no choke" method. >>> >>> I placed the carburetor on the manifold, and so far I can only see a couple >>> of problems: the fuel inlet is just in front of the coil, and it seems as I >>> will have to move the coil to the firewall. Not a bad idea to start with, >>> as I never liked the idea of the coil sitting right on top of the engine. >>> Also, while the Holley carburetor comes with the Ford kickdown lever, the >>> original Bricklin throttle cable seems just a tad too long to fit to the >>> Holley throttle linkage. I think Terry told me something about that, but I >>> was not taking notes while taking to him, and I might have to call him >>> again. There might be an adapter available. I will have a blanking plate >>> made for the now unused choke heat riser plate on the manifold. The Holley >>> does not look as high as the original Motocraft 2150, so there should be no >>> problems with hood clearance. If the air cleaner does not clear the >>> linkages, there is a spacer available from Holley. >>> >>> Holley's paperwork gives very clear instructions on how to install the >>> carburetor. Holley also has videos online giving very thorough instructions >>> on how to set up Holley carburetors (search HolleyTV.com). >>> >>> Finally, the Holley paperwork states this carburetor is not suitable for >> the >>> AOD transmission. >>> >>> JLC #2121 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Bricklin at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Bricklin at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/robertpauldaley at msn.com From diraxel at yahoo.com Sun Dec 11 14:55:57 2011 From: diraxel at yahoo.com (^_^) Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 13:55:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Bricklin] Holley Carburetor for 351 Windsor In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1323640557.76610.YahooMailClassic@web126006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> > Finally, the Holley paperwork states this carburetor is not > suitable for the AOD transmission. ain't it sad that installing the Holley carburetor will prevent any upgrade to an AOD transmission? From isensee at aol.com Sun Dec 18 15:25:55 2011 From: isensee at aol.com (Scott Isensee) Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 17:25:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Bricklin] Air door problem Message-ID: <8CE8BEB24B73878-198C-2728E@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> I am stumped by an air door problem. The drivers side works fine, but on the passenger side, the up air solenoid won't trigger most of the time. If I bleed to the air pressure down to 40 pounds so the passenger side solenoid works every time, but when I run the pressure up to about 100 it fails to trigger most of the time. It doesn't matter whether I use the inside or outside door switch. I am getting 12 volts to the solenoids both at the passenger and drivers sides. I have air latches on the doors so there is no current draw in the circuit for them. I tried running a wire direct from the solenoid to the positive terminal of the battery to rule out any resistance from the switches or wiring, still no luck. I took the solenoid (Kip valve) apart and it looks fine. I even bought a new solenoid and replaced the old one. The air lines are clear as far as I can tell. Occasionally the solenoid will trigger and then the passenger door opens fine. It is a little more likely to work when the car is running (and thus the voltage is higher) than when the car is off, but in either case it fails to work most of the time. After asking about this on the newsgroup earlier, someone suggested reversing the two airlines which I did and it worked for a little while after that, but I think it was just a fluke since the problem is somewhat intermittent. The problem continues. Any other ideas? Scott From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Mon Dec 19 05:18:52 2011 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 12:18:52 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] (no subject) Message-ID: From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Dec 19 06:18:52 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 08:18:52 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door problem In-Reply-To: <8CE8BEB24B73878-198C-2728E@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE8BEB24B73878-198C-2728E@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20111219080931.04e839e8@cox.net> At 05:25 PM 12/18/2011, Scott Isensee wrote: >I am stumped by an air door problem. The drivers side works fine, but on the >passenger side, the up air solenoid won't trigger most of the time. If I bleed >to the air pressure down to 40 pounds so the passenger side solenoid works >every time, but when I run the pressure up to about 100 it fails to trigger >most of the time. Scott, So if I understand you, you have: 1. checked the voltage going to the solenoids and that's OK. 2. probem occurs using both inside and outside switches. 3. You say you have air latches, but you didn't say if the passenger side latch is firing. I'm assuming it is, but I'll ask any way. Is it? 4. You've run power directly to the solenoid - and it didn't fire. 5. you cleaned and replaced the solenoid. 6. you said the air lines for the passenger side is not clogged. None of this helped. The only thing left I can think of is that the ground wire for the pass. up solenoid is getting a good ground. Check and see if each ground wire for the solenoids goes to it's own mount to the mounting plate or are they all tied to one point? Also check to see that the wire is a good connection to the eyelit (if the wire has one). Then how are all these ground wires actually connected to the chassis grouns? Check those connections. Make sure the metal is clean an bright, the screws are tight? You might also want to put some dielectric past on each of the ground wires where they connect to the panel. Have you tried to call Terry and talk to him or John? Keep us posted. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Dec 19 08:33:43 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 10:33:43 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door problem In-Reply-To: <8CE8C77709BC9C2-198C-33A2D@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE8BEB24B73878-198C-2728E@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.5.6.1.20111219080931.04e839e8@cox.net> <8CE8C77709BC9C2-198C-33A2D@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20111219101656.04e8d260@cox.net> At 10:10 AM 12/19/2011, you wrote: >The passenger door unlatches fine. Scott, Shucks. It sure would have been easy for the latch not to be firing so the door wouldn't open. But then how would the air pressure effect that? Speaking of Air pressure, that doesn't make any sense if it's a bad ground. The air pressure should not effect how the solednoid would fire. But that's the only thing left we can thing of. >I clipped a jumper from the solenoid to ground at the mounting bolt for the air >controls, but I'll try running it right to the ground terminal on the battery to rule out a >weak ground on the air control panel. Air lines, power (clip leaded both power and grounds), the solenoid - cleaned and replaced, switches (bypassed by clip leads). >I'll try cleaning connections and using dielectric paste, as you suggest. That's about all I can thing of now. >Another thing that might be relevant is that I installed one of the oilers that John >Martin sells a couple of years ago. Maybe oil in the air system is causing problems? >I removed the oiler yesterday. I don't think that would really effect it. Terry has recommended an oiler/lubicrator for years. I'm starting to lean back to a clogged / kinked air line. But even that doesn't make sense. The higher the air pressure, the more air should be able to get through the clog, or tend to unkink the air line to all more air flow. You may just have to go back to the beginning and start over. 1. to test the air lines, we'd need to see how much air is going through the lines. The only thing I can think of there is a balloon held onto the air line where it attaches to the lift ram. Fire the latch for a few seconds and see how big the balloon gets. Try that on the other side also. That should give us some rough idea. Does the solenoid fire if the air line is disconnected from the lift ram at full pressure? 2. clip leading from the battery (both hot and ground) to the solenoid would rule out the wiring and switches. 3. The only thing I can think of that would make it pressure sensative is if the solenoid were in backwards. But you say you hadn't pulled the solenoid out and it has worked for 25 yrs. The more I think about it, the pressure has to have something to do with it, but what? I can't think of a thing. I'll keep thinking on it. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Dec 19 09:25:48 2011 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 11:25:48 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door problem Message-ID: <7ABCBBF8D4E8408A90F0BC3A251C5983@work> The only guess I can make is something I have seen on one of my cars, it was also the passenger door, seems there was some oil in the air line coming from the cylinder. It got into the solenoid, It made it stick intermittently, mostly when you wanted to take someone for ride, would work every other time, would test it out and be fine, offer to take some one for a ride and wham stop working LOL. well I cleaned out the line with brake clean, disassembled the solenoid and cleaned it out as well and now it works fine every time, seems the oil just made too much drag in the solenoid for it to open with air pressure, you would think oil would make it work better but not the case< at ;east in that instance. On 12/19/2011 10:33:43 AM, John T. Blair (jblair1948 at cox.net) wrote: > At 10:10 AM 12/19/2011, you wrote: > > >The passenger door unlatches fine. > > Scott, > > Shucks. It sure would have been easy for the latch not to be firing > so the door > wouldn't open. But then how would the air pressure effect that? > > Speaking of Air pressure, that doesn't > make any sense if > it's a bad > ground. The > air pressure should not effect how the solednoid would fire. But > that's > the only > thing left we can thing of. > > >I clipped a jumper from the solenoid to ground at the mounting bolt > for the air > >controls, but > I'll try running it right to the ground terminal on > the battery to rule out a > >weak ground on the air control panel. > > Air lines, power (clip leaded both power and grounds), the solenoid - > cleaned and > replaced, switches (bypassed by clip leads). > > >I'll > try cleaning connections and using dielectric paste, as you suggest. > > That's about all I can thing of now. > > >Another thing that might be relevant is that I installed one of the > oilers that John > >Martin sells a couple of years ago. Maybe oil in the air system is > causing problems? > >I removed From isensee at aol.com Mon Dec 19 16:02:12 2011 From: isensee at aol.com (Scott Isensee) Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 18:02:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Bricklin] Air door problem In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20111219101656.04e8d260@cox.net> References: <8CE8BEB24B73878-198C-2728E@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com><6.2.5.6.1.20111219080931.04e839e8@cox.net><8CE8C77709BC9C2-198C-33A2D@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.5.6.1.20111219101656.04e8d260@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CE8CB96059391B-198C-3DD9A@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com> I had a few minutes to work on the Bricklin today and did this additional troubleshooting. I slowly added air to the tank and tried the passenger door every 10 pounds. The solenoid works fine up until the pressure hits 80 pounds then stops working. So the problem is definitely somehow related to pressure. I removed the output air line from the solenoid and that had no effect. So the problem does not lie with the door cylinder or latch. I ran a ground directly to the battery with no effect so it is not a ground problem. I haven't had time to try the other things you suggested yet. When I talked to Terry last month, he said that many Bricklins still have electric latches which pull a lot of current and the wires in that circuit aren't as heavy as they ought to be. As a result, the solenoids in the air box are often getting only around 6 volts yet they typically work just fine with that. I have air latches so am getting a full 12 volts to the solenoids which should be more than enough. This is really puzzling. Scott -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair To: bricklin Sent: Mon, Dec 19, 2011 9:42 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air door problem At 10:10 AM 12/19/2011, you wrote: >The passenger door unlatches fine. Scott, Shucks. It sure would have been easy for the latch not to be firing so the door wouldn't open. But then how would the air pressure effect that? Speaking of Air pressure, that doesn't make any sense if it's a bad ground. The air pressure should not effect how the solednoid would fire. But that's the only thing left we can thing of. >I clipped a jumper from the solenoid to ground at the mounting bolt for the air >controls, but I'll try running it right to the ground terminal on the battery to rule out a >weak ground on the air control panel. Air lines, power (clip leaded both power and grounds), the solenoid - cleaned and replaced, switches (bypassed by clip leads). >I'll try cleaning connections and using dielectric paste, as you suggest. That's about all I can thing of now. >Another thing that might be relevant is that I installed one of the oilers that John >Martin sells a couple of years ago. Maybe oil in the air system is causing problems? >I removed the oiler yesterday. I don't think that would really effect it. Terry has recommended an oiler/lubicrator for years. I'm starting to lean back to a clogged / kinked air line. But even that doesn't make sense. The higher the air pressure, the more air should be able to get through the clog, or tend to unkink the air line to all more air flow. You may just have to go back to the beginning and start over. 1. to test the air lines, we'd need to see how much air is going through the lines. The only thing I can think of there is a balloon held onto the air line where it attaches to the lift ram. Fire the latch for a few seconds and see how big the balloon gets. Try that on the other side also. That should give us some rough idea. Does the solenoid fire if the air line is disconnected from the lift ram at full pressure? 2. clip leading from the battery (both hot and ground) to the solenoid would rule out the wiring and switches. 3. The only thing I can think of that would make it pressure sensative is if the solenoid were in backwards. But you say you hadn't pulled the solenoid out and it has worked for 25 yrs. The more I think about it, the pressure has to have something to do with it, but what? I can't think of a thing. I'll keep thinking on it. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From jwmartin37 at aol.com Tue Dec 20 15:53:47 2011 From: jwmartin37 at aol.com (John Martin) Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2011 17:53:47 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Digest, Vol 4, Issue 103 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE8D815E385F95-1B7C-D03C3@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com> SCOTT, KINDA SOUNDS LIKE YOUR SOLENOID COIL IS WEAK. PRETTY COMMON ISSUE. From colemaal at hotmail.com Wed Dec 21 15:40:07 2011 From: colemaal at hotmail.com (Alan Coleman) Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2011 22:40:07 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door problem In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20111219080931.04e839e8@cox.net> References: <8CE8BEB24B73878-198C-2728E@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com>, <6.2.5.6.1.20111219080931.04e839e8@cox.net> Message-ID: Sounds like a bad solenoid. I had the same thing happen on a sprinkler system and it drove me crazy trying to figure it out. Low pressure/no pressure, the solenoid operated valve worked fine but crank the pressure up and it would not open. I checked with the manufacturer and they told me that sometimes when they go bad they will work fine with no pressure or a small amount of pressure on them, but they won't have enough strength to work when full pressure is on them. AlanC #246 > Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 08:18:52 -0500 > To: bricklin at autox.team.net > From: jblair1948 at cox.net > Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air door problem > > At 05:25 PM 12/18/2011, Scott Isensee wrote: > > >I am stumped by an air door problem. The drivers side works fine, but on the > >passenger side, the up air solenoid won't trigger most of the > time. If I bleed > >to the air pressure down to 40 pounds so the passenger side solenoid works > >every time, but when I run the pressure up to about 100 it fails to trigger > >most of the time. > > Scott, > > So if I understand you, you have: > > 1. checked the voltage going to the solenoids and that's OK. > 2. probem occurs using both inside and outside switches. > > 3. You say you have air latches, but you didn't say if the passenger > side latch is > firing. I'm assuming it is, but I'll ask any way. Is it? > > 4. You've run power directly to the solenoid - and it didn't fire. > > 5. you cleaned and replaced the solenoid. > > 6. you said the air lines for the passenger side is not clogged. > > None of this helped. The only thing left I can think of is that the > ground wire for > the pass. up solenoid is getting a good ground. Check and see if each ground > wire for the solenoids goes to it's own mount to the mounting plate or are they > all tied to one point? > > Also check to see that the wire is a good connection to the eyelit > (if the wire has > one). Then how are all these ground wires actually connected to the chassis > grouns? Check those connections. Make sure the metal is clean an bright, the > screws are tight? You might also want to put some dielectric past on > each of the > ground wires where they connect to the panel. > > Have you tried to call Terry and talk to him or John? > > Keep us posted. > > John > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > > From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: > e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." > In God We Trust > Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for > oneself; freedom from control or restriction > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/colemaal at hotmail.com From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Dec 27 17:39:22 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 19:39:22 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Backlight sign 4 sale Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20111227193805.04d63bf8@cox.net> Hey gang, I just got a phone call from a fellow in NJ that has a Bricklin sign for sale. If anyone is looking for one, you might want to contact him: ------------------ BRICKLIN ORIGINAL DEALER BACKLIT SIGN FOR SALE "MINT" CONDITION Joe Bruno 609-315-0509 ------------------ John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction