From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Apr 2 21:34:56 2011 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 23:34:56 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Replacement Wheels Message-ID: Finally got the car out today. Drove down the interstate and the balance is better. It is not a perfect ride, but it is hard to compare a 1974 car to a more updated car and suspension. I am going to go ahead and get the front tires balanced the same way and see what happens with all the tires balanced the same way. I still believe the best way is to get them spun on the car. Still on the lookout for someone who can do it. Greg 0036 From maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 3 22:07:24 2011 From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com (google Eyes) Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 04:07:24 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] strut arm bushings Message-ID: Does anyone have the part number for the strut arm bushings . Thanks in advance From JamesCowen at automodello.com Thu Apr 7 16:54:57 2011 From: JamesCowen at automodello.com (Automodello JC) Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 17:54:57 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Automodello Tribute Editions for 2011 Bricklin National meet Message-ID: <04c201cbf576$d229c550$767d4ff0$@com> Hello, Been a few months since I last posted. Pre-orders for the two Tribute Editions have been coming in more rapidly since the latest Brickline was published. At the 2011 Bricklin National in Virginia will be the first time all the colors are together: . AM-BRI-SV1 Bricklin SV1 Closed in Safety Orange . AM-BRI-SV1-RD Bricklin SV1 Closed in Safety Red . AM-BRI-SV1-FE Bricklin SV1 with open driver's door in Safety Green and Herb Grasse's signature / 192 serialized units . AM-BRI-SV1-TT Bricklin SV1 with open driver's door in Safety SunTan and Herb Grasse's signature / up to 42 serialized units . AM-BRI-SV1-TW Bricklin SV1 with open driver's door in Safety White and Herb Grasse's signature / up to 42 serialized units . AM-BRI-SV1-XE Bricklin SV1 Exploded Edition shown at last year's National in Safety White / less than 10 ff 52 serialized units In the next few weeks production will be on the two Tribute Editions to have these models available at the 2011 Bricklin National meet in Virginia. Production build quantities will be based on pre-orders to date for Safety SunTan and Safety White. If you've been thinking about ordering a Tribute Edition, might want to make your decision soon to make sure you get one. Tribute Editions are available exclusively on www.diecasm.com website. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks, Jim James Cowen AutomodelloT 847.274.9645 Cell 877.238.7813 Fax Automodello Skype www.Automodello.com JamesCowen at Automodello.com | Automodello at gmail.com AutomodelloT and Dreams EngagedT are copyrights, marks, product and trade names of Diecasm, LLC. C1/24/2008, 10/14/2008, 1/5/2009, 3/3/2009 - All rights reserved. The contents of this email are confidential and intended for review by the recipient of this email only. If you are not the intended recipient, please delete this email and notify by replying to the sender. From thomas.d.fournier at rogers.com Fri Apr 8 11:15:49 2011 From: thomas.d.fournier at rogers.com (Thomas Fournier) Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:15:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Play 2011 Message-ID: <200485.66166.qm@web88405.mail.re1.yahoo.com> http://fredplayhouse.wordpress.com/2011/04/08/bricklin-is-back/ From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Apr 10 14:12:16 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 16:12:16 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Car 4 sale Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20110410160908.04db2350@cox.net> Hey gang, In case you haven't checked ebay lately, Herb Grasse's car VIN #0571 is up for sale. You should check it out. If anyone is interested in a piece of history, here's your chance to own it. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From JamesCowen at automodello.com Thu Apr 14 12:12:16 2011 From: JamesCowen at automodello.com (Automodello JC) Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 13:12:16 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Automodello Bricklin SV1 Tribute Edition Change and Price Drop Message-ID: <04dd01cbfacf$7e05e180$7a11a480$@com> Hello, Almost immediately after posting a message about the two Tribute Editions, it was suggested by an Automodello advisory member that we change the two Tribute Editions to Standard editions. Before proceeding, I talked with all those who had pre-ordered the Tribute Editions to see how they felt. The unanimous consensus of those I reached was to proceed. This changes to the closed-door body style without the Herb Grasse signature, and, immediately reduces the price from $249.95 to $94.95 The Diecasm website reflects this change and we hope to have both the SunTan and White cars available at the Bricklin meet in July: Standard Editions are $95 with a build up to 399 - AM-BRI-SV1 Bricklin SV1 Closed in Safety Orange. - AM-BRI-SV1-RD Bricklin SV1 Closed in Safety Red. - AM-BRI-SV1-TT Bricklin SV1 Closed in Safety SunTan. - AM-BRI-SV1-TW Bricklin SV1 Closed in Safety White. - Founders Editions are $195 with a build of 192 - AM-BRI-SV1-FE Bricklin SV1 with open driver's door in Safety Green and Herb Grasse's signature on 192 serialized units at $195. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you, Jim James Cowen AutomodelloT 847.274.9645 Cell 877.238.7813 Fax Automodello Skype www.Automodello.com JamesCowen at Automodello.com | Automodello at gmail.com AutomodelloT and Dreams EngagedT are copyrights, marks, product and trade names of Diecasm, LLC. C1/24/2008, 10/14/2008, 1/5/2009, 3/3/2009 - All rights reserved. The contents of this email are confidential and intended for review by the recipient of this email only. If you are not the intended recipient, please delete this email and notify by replying to the sender. From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 22 17:31:32 2011 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 23:31:32 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] acrylic Message-ID: http://www.surface-repair.com/diy_acrylic-gelcoat_paste.htm i just wonder if this would work fixing small crack in white brick.. i remember rick from bricklinboyz had a can that was cured do to age lol safetyred acrylic ..wonder if we can still this stuff? From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 22 18:05:04 2011 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 00:05:04 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] white acrylic Message-ID: never know lol never ask for white body panels yet lol worth a try front fenders and door skin around this world ....for sale thanks serge From monfort_g at bellsouth.net Sat Apr 23 18:31:56 2011 From: monfort_g at bellsouth.net (monfort_g) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 20:31:56 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] acrylic References: Message-ID: <036201cc0217$052de920$4001a8c0@gmbox> I doubt it will hold up to extremes in temperature over time and then there will most likely be a color mismatch based on my experience with tub repairs cracking somewhat worse, though in fairness it took a couple of decades for it to happen and obviously better than looking at a dirt stained one until they did. Still, considering how much my car's white body has cracked even sitting still in a garage for many years now, I don't see how to permanently fix it all without shooting whatever high solids catalytic coating/flex agent is used on acrylic panels these days once all the repairs are done using whatever has proven to work well. I've been 'out of the loop' for so long WRT vehicles in general and the Bricklin in particular, I've no clue what the latest n' greatest is anymore about anything. GM From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Apr 23 20:13:36 2011 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 21:13:36 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Message-ID: <0349A7AC9F3E4338B14D987783A799FA@greg> My oil pressure is fine when I start the car and drive for a little while it will idle fine in gear, with the brake and ac on. Even after the choke turns off it is fine After the car gets up to temp (around 180) when I stop the idle has decreased and the oil pressure light starts to blink or stay on. The car still runs, but I would like to know if anyone knows the cause of this so I can address it. Greg 0036 From lvphotogroup at cox.net Sun Apr 24 00:44:43 2011 From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 23:44:43 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure References: <0349A7AC9F3E4338B14D987783A799FA@greg> Message-ID: I know that as the oil heats up it gets thinner (like when you heat pancake syrup it gets thinner). When the oil gets thinner, the pressure goes down because it is easier to pickup. but if it is getting to the point that the light stays on, the pressure is too low. I would drop the pan and take a look to see if the lifting tube had slipped down and it is sucking air. But is you drop the pan, you might as well just change the pump. they are not that much. This probably didn't help you any. Larry in LV #2046 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Schroeder" To: Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 7:13 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure > My oil pressure is fine when I start the car and drive for a little while > it > will idle fine in gear, with the brake and ac on. Even after the choke > turns > off it is fine After the car gets up to temp (around 180) when I stop the > idle has decreased and the oil pressure light starts to blink or stay on. > The > car still runs, but I would like to know if anyone knows the cause of this > so > I can address it. > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/lvphotogroup at cox.net > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1321 / Virus Database: 1500/3592 - Release Date: 04/23/11 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Sun Apr 24 05:35:13 2011 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 11:35:13 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Message-ID: I'm not sure. But maybe a weak oil pressure bypass valve spring? Or the end play on the crank to excessive? Bad or weak oil pressure sender? If you could hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and get a hot oil idle pressure reading that would let you know how low it actually is. -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 7:13 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure My oil pressure is fine when I start the car and drive for a little while it will idle fine in gear, with the brake and ac on. Even after the choke turns off it is fine After the car gets up to temp (around 180) when I stop the idle has decreased and the oil pressure light starts to blink or stay on. The car still runs, but I would like to know if anyone knows the cause of this so I can address it. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net From breton48 at live.com Sun Apr 24 06:35:36 2011 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 06:35:36 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I know it can be a bad oil pressure sender. I had a 1970 Lotus Seven with the same problem, and I was worried about needing an engine rebuild. A new oil pressure sender showed the oil pressure was in fact quite healthy. For the cheap price of an electric sender (I paid $30 for the Lotus engine sender, I assume it would be a similar price for a Bricklin?), I would put in a new sender to start with. JLC #2121 -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of D Walker Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 5:35 AM To: Greg Schroeder; Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure I'm not sure. But maybe a weak oil pressure bypass valve spring? Or the end play on the crank to excessive? Bad or weak oil pressure sender? If you could hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and get a hot oil idle pressure reading that would let you know how low it actually is. -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 7:13 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure My oil pressure is fine when I start the car and drive for a little while it will idle fine in gear, with the brake and ac on. Even after the choke turns off it is fine After the car gets up to temp (around 180) when I stop the idle has decreased and the oil pressure light starts to blink or stay on. The car still runs, but I would like to know if anyone knows the cause of this so I can address it. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/breton48 at live.com From isensee at aol.com Sun Apr 24 06:37:56 2011 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 08:37:56 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <0349A7AC9F3E4338B14D987783A799FA@greg> Message-ID: <8CDD09392732534-770-D00F@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Here is a good article on troubleshooting low oil pressure. http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1097.htm I have had several older cars that would light the oil pressure light or show less than 10 pounds on the gauge at warm idle. They stayed that way for years with no problems. It is typically caused by by wear which increases clearance among the parts and bleeds off some of the pressure. As long as pressure rises to normal levels above idle, it is often not a problem. If it drops all the way to zero at idle or doesn't rise very high at higher RPM, then you have a real problem. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Larry Ankeny To: Greg Schroeder ; Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Apr 24, 2011 1:44 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure I know that as the oil heats up it gets thinner (like when you heat pancake syrup it gets thinner). When the oil gets thinner, the pressure goes down because it is easier to pickup. but if it is getting to the point that the light stays on, the pressure is too low. I would drop the pan and take a look to see if the lifting tube had slipped down and it is sucking air. But is you drop the pan, you might as well just change the pump. they are not that much. This probably didn't help you any. Larry in LV #2046 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Schroeder" To: Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 7:13 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure > My oil pressure is fine when I start the car and drive for a little while > it > will idle fine in gear, with the brake and ac on. Even after the choke > turns > off it is fine After the car gets up to temp (around 180) when I stop the > idle has decreased and the oil pressure light starts to blink or stay on. > The > car still runs, but I would like to know if anyone knows the cause of this > so > I can address it. > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/lvphotogroup at cox.net > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1321 / Virus Database: 1500/3592 - Release Date: 04/23/11 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Apr 24 07:17:29 2011 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 08:17:29 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure References: <0349A7AC9F3E4338B14D987783A799FA@greg> <8CDD09392732534-770-D00F@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <489345D453244C93812E49FA7B5D5291@greg> Thanks for all the responses so far. I left out a few details. I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago. I replaced the oil pump gears. I cannot remember if I change the oil pump valve spring. I believe I did, but I will have to see if I kept all the parts to see if the spring was replaced. I have not driven it to much but I did drive to the meet last year in Lexington from TN. Now my trips are around 10 to 15 miles one way. Normally on the return is when this occurs and only at idle. I feel like at every stop sign and traffic light it will die. When the car is being driven and not stopped the oil pressure is fine. It is just as the engine gets to temp the idle drops a few RPM's and then the oil pressure light flickers or stays on. In some cases the engine will die and have to be restarted. The idle after the choke is off is around 800-900 RPM's (based on the tach). It will drop down when put in gear and the air turned on to around 600-700 RPM's. It drives and accelerates fine with no issues. After driving for a while it will drop even more and start this problem. Greg 0036 From isensee at aol.com Sun Apr 24 09:28:48 2011 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 11:28:48 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <489345D453244C93812E49FA7B5D5291@greg> References: <0349A7AC9F3E4338B14D987783A799FA@greg><8CDD09392732534-770-D00F@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> <489345D453244C93812E49FA7B5D5291@greg> Message-ID: <8CDD0AB7143E42D-770-E695@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> You can't expect much oil pressure if it is idling too slow. I think your idle speed problem is the first thing to troubleshoot. Here is an article that covers that. http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/TS_idle-speed.htm Scott -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Apr 24, 2011 8:17 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Thanks for all the responses so far. I left out a few details. I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago. I replaced the oil pump gears. I cannot remember if I change the oil pump valve spring. I believe I did, but I will have to see if I kept all the parts to see if the spring was replaced. I have not driven it to much but I did drive to the meet last year in Lexington from TN. Now my trips are around 10 to 15 miles one way. Normally on the return is when this occurs and only at idle. I feel like at every stop sign and traffic light it will die. When the car is being driven and not stopped the oil pressure is fine. It is just as the engine gets to temp the idle drops a few RPM's and then the oil pressure light flickers or stays on. In some cases the engine will die and have to be restarted. The idle after the choke is off is around 800-900 RPM's (based on the tach). It will drop down when put in gear and the air turned on to around 600-700 RPM's. It drives and accelerates fine with no issues. After driving for a while it will drop even more and start this problem. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Apr 24 10:51:53 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 12:51:53 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <489345D453244C93812E49FA7B5D5291@greg> References: <0349A7AC9F3E4338B14D987783A799FA@greg> <8CDD09392732534-770-D00F@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> <489345D453244C93812E49FA7B5D5291@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20110424124430.04b95f08@cox.net> At 09:17 AM 4/24/2011, Greg Schroeder wrote: >... I left out a few details. I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago. I replaced the oil pump >gears. I cannot remember if I change the oil pump valve spring. I believe I did, but I will >have to see if I kept all the parts to see if the spring was replaced. > Greg, Well that should rule out worn bearings. I'd spend the money (<$20) for a mechanical oil press. gauge and an adapter to put it on with the electrical sending unit. I trust the mechanical gauges more than I trust the electrical ones. This would let you know how close the electrical one is. After you see what the idle pressure really is, then you can remove the mechanical gauge. >... Now my trips are around 10 to 15 miles one way. Normally on the return is when this >occurs and only at idle. I feel like at every stop sign and traffic light it will die. When the car >is being driven and not stopped the oil pressure is fine. It is just as the engine gets to temp >the idle drops a few RPM's and then the oil pressure light flickers or stays on. In some cases >the engine will die and have to be restarted. If I remember correctly, the oil pressure should be something like 10psi for every 1k of rpms, up to some limit and then the pressure gets bled off in the pump. So as long as it is about 8 psi or above at idle, I'd say you are fine. >The idle after the choke is off is around 800-900 RPM's (based on the tach). It will drop down >when put in gear and the air turned on to around 600-700 RPM's. It drives and accelerates >fine with no issues. After driving for a while it will drop even more and start this problem. While 600-700 is fine, you could pump it up a little. Is the solenoid on the carb firing and set properly? John Lodge and I played with several at Lexington. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Apr 25 03:27:44 2011 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 05:27:44 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Message-ID: 1st if you have fram filter on it remove it and replace witha WIX, Purolator or Napa filter, If that solves your problem great , if not you have wear in the oil pump housing, this is a very common problem with the AMC 360 engines. you can check the oil [pump gear clearances and add a wear plate to the end of the pump it that is worn, you can go and read all about amc oiling here http://www.bulltear.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?111-AMC-oiling&s=ad684a5caa5f 0cdd722bc05543519da7 On 4/23/2011 10:13:36 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > My oil pressure is fine when I start the car and drive for a little while > it > will idle fine in gear, with the brake and ac on. Even after the choke > turns > off it is fine After the car gets up to temp (around 180) when I stop > the > idle has decreased and the oil pressure light starts to blink or stay on. > The > car still runs, but I would like to know if anyone knows the cause of this > so > I can address it. > > Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Apr 26 16:07:16 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:07:16 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin in junk yard Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20110426180510.04cf4978@cox.net> I just got an email that there's a Bricklin (VIN #00031BX5S002242) in the "Pull A Part" yard in Knoxville, Tennessee. Don't know what kind of shap or what parts are available. Just thought I'd let everyone know. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Apr 26 19:20:22 2011 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 20:20:22 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin in junk yard References: <6.2.5.6.1.20110426180510.04cf4978@cox.net> Message-ID: <37C5FBBA297043D8BB5F5230E21BEBC3@greg> I was actually going to be around there this weekend. Hope I have time to get by there. Greg 0036 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John T. Blair" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 5:07 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin in junk yard >I just got an email that there's a Bricklin (VIN #00031BX5S002242) in the > "Pull A Part" yard in Knoxville, Tennessee. > > Don't know what kind of shap or what parts are available. > > Just thought I'd let everyone know. > > John > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gschroeder at comcast.net From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Apr 26 20:44:05 2011 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:44:05 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin in junk yard References: <6.2.5.6.1.20110426180510.04cf4978@cox.net> Message-ID: John, Just did a search on all pull-a-parts inventory including Knoxville and nothing is showing up in inventory. The car may be gone. Greg 0036 From paul-amo at comcast.net Tue Apr 26 23:22:58 2011 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 01:22:58 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin in junk yard In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20110426180510.04cf4978@cox.net> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20110426180510.04cf4978@cox.net> Message-ID: <4DB7A832.60806@comcast.net> Hi; Here's a link to their page with a phone number in case anyone is interested. http://www.superpages.com/bp/Knoxville-TN/PullAPart-L2060838523.htm If anyone finds out anything, let us all know. Paul Amoroso #1207 On 04/26/11 6:07 PM, John T. Blair wrote: > I just got an email that there's a Bricklin (VIN #00031BX5S002242) in the > "Pull A Part" yard in Knoxville, Tennessee. > > Don't know what kind of shap or what parts are available. > > Just thought I'd let everyone know. > > John > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/paul-amo at comcast.net