From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Sat May 1 13:48:51 2010 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 19:48:51 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Message-ID: Yes indeed. And to do it right. Jack it up. Remove the wheels. Back off the shoes. Or remove the drums. So there is no drag on the drums. And use a new pinion nut. And do not over tighten! There is a crush spacer in there. And you do not want to bottom it out. Or it will have to be replaced. GO SLOW on the nut and check the torque often. -----Original Message----- From: bricklin0095 at aol.com Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 7:57 PM To: treefrogno9 at webtv.net, breton48 at live.com, lvphotogroup at cox.net, Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak The old seal will have the part no. on it as a last resort..Make sure you check the seal surface on the yoke.. If it is grooved from the old seal you will need a seal repair kit.. This will be a thin metal sleeve.. Heat it up in an oven and it will slide over the yoke giving the new seal a nice smooth sruface to seal on... Also before removing the yoke put a torque wrench on the big nut and see how much torque it takes to turn the rear end. When you put it back together use this figure to ensure the nut goes back on with the correct preload... The tighter you torque the nut the more torque it will take to turn the gears. -----Original Message----- From: D Walker <treefrogno9 at webtv.net> To: JLC <breton48 at live.com>; 'Larry Ankeny' <lvphotogroup at cox.net>; Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 7:17 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak A Dana 20 is a transfer case. It's an AMC 20 or sometimes called a Corporate 20. -----Original Message----- From: JLC Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:24 PM To: 'Larry Ankeny', Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak The axle is a Dana 20, used in AMC V8 and Jeep vehicles of the time. I assume you could get the info on a Jeep or AMC forum. Hopefully someone can give you the parts # right here. JLC -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 3:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/breton48 at live.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/bricklin0095 at aol.com From monfort_g at bellsouth.net Fri May 14 14:50:50 2010 From: monfort_g at bellsouth.net (monfort_g) Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 16:50:50 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] test n/t Message-ID: <02e901caf3a7$23ca29e0$6101a8c0@gmbox> :^) From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun May 16 07:40:52 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 09:40:52 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Northeast Exotic Car Show 2010 Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100516093922.04517e10@cox.net> I'm reposting this email, in hopes of getting some of our Bricklin friends out to this meet. Sounds like it might be interesting! John ---------- Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 22:14:58 To: Subject: From the BI Contacts Page ... Northeast Exotic Car Show 2010 James- Each year for the past six years I have been working with the NH Make-a-Wish Foundation and the New England Viper Club, on a car show called the Northeast Exotic Car Show. It has been promoted and supported through the Exotic Car Community and their Forums.. My intention for this year is to get the Bricklin Community to participate. My request is that you help promote this years show and send out an invitation to the New England Bricklin Owners. The date for this years Show is Saturday August 21st. On the lawn at the Anheuser-Bush Brewery in Merrimack, NH. Rain Date is Saturday August 28th. In the past we have had great response from the DeLorean Owners and one year we even hosted their Regional Event. So far we have only seen one Bricklin at the show. Looking through your registry there are 40 cars within a two hour drive of this event. I have tried to post a message to the Bricklin mailing list outlining the event, but It was treated as spam and the message was blocked. Anything you could do to help me involve the Bricklin owners in the area would be greatly appreciated. Info related to the show can be found on the website: www.northeastexotic.com <> Please contact me if you have any questions, or to discuss your interest in the show. Thanks,- Jeff Torrey / Northeast Exotic Car Show Past President New England Viper Club Trustee New England Lotus Club Member TVR Car Club of America --------------------- John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From isensee at aol.com Thu May 20 20:03:54 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 22:03:54 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Headlight diagnosis Message-ID: <8CCC6A1001DD8DD-D78-41BB@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> My headlights are no longer coming up. Can anybody tell me where to find an article on troubleshooting it? Either a URL or a pointer to which issue of the Brickline to look in would be great. Thanks. Scott Isensee From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri May 21 05:57:44 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 07:57:44 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Headlight diagnosis In-Reply-To: <8CCC6A1001DD8DD-D78-41BB@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCC6A1001DD8DD-D78-41BB@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100521075318.04532318@cox.net> At 10:03 PM 5/20/2010, isensee at aol.com wrote: >My headlights are no longer coming up. Can anybody tell me where to find an >article on troubleshooting it? Either a URL or a pointer to which issue of the >Brickline to look in would be great. Thanks. Scott, Here's a link. It's got a pretty good trouble shooting procedure: http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm Basically the lights are raised by the actuactors. The actuactors get the vac. from the relay. So I'd check to see of you get a change in vac. at the control port (top) of the relay. If not, then there's a start. If you do, check the output of the relay? If you have vac. there, then I'd suspect a bad seal or broken diaphram in the actuactor. Might be time to convert to Terry's air headlights. :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From bricklin0095 at aol.com Fri May 21 17:20:31 2010 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 19:20:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Headlight diagnosis In-Reply-To: 29523661 References: 29523661 Message-ID: <8CCC7535759B804-1BEC-DEC8@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com> Here ya go... ? http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> To: isensee <isensee at aol.com> Cc: bricklin <bricklin at autox.team.net> Sent: Fri, May 21, 2010 8:54 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Headlight diagnosis At 10:03 PM 5/20/2010, isensee at aol.com wrote: >My headlights are no longer coming up. Can anybody tell me where to find an >article on troubleshooting it? Either a URL or a pointer to which issue of the >Brickline to look in would be great. Thanks. Scott, Here's a link. It's got a pretty good trouble shooting procedure: http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm Basically the lights are raised by the actuactors. The actuactors get the vac. from the relay. So I'd check to see of you get a change in vac. at the control port (top) of the relay. If not, then there's a start. If you do, check the output of the relay? If you have vac. there, then I'd suspect a bad seal or broken diaphram in the actuactor. Might be time to convert to Terry's air headlights. :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/bricklin0095 at aol.com From isensee at aol.com Mon May 24 09:59:23 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 11:59:23 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Noisy AC Message-ID: <8CCC971363E24E5-20BC-125C@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> The AC compressor on my '75 Bricklin has started making a rattling noise like marbles in a can. Any idea what causes that? I only hear it at idle, after that it either quits or is drowned out by engine and wind noise. Is there any reason to replace the compressor now or should I just ignore it as long as the compressor continues to work? Scott From maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com Mon May 24 16:33:01 2010 From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com (google Eyes) Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 22:33:01 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] strut arm bushings Message-ID: Is there a part # for the strut arm bushings on the Brick also does anyone have 2 sockets and bulbs for the instrument panel for the smaller guages . I broke the end off of a couple putting the panel back into place . Any help appreciated Thanks derrick _________________________________________________________________ MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729707 From isensee at aol.com Mon May 24 18:57:50 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 20:57:50 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin fuel sender Message-ID: <8CCC9BC6EEB168A-11C0-5D87@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com> I got my Bricklin fuel sender replaced tonight. That wasn't a very fun job. It is a hard spot to get to, the old sender was in very solid, the fuel hose cracked and ran a good stream of gas down my arm. Finally got the new one in though and it works fine now.The old sender had a brass float and that had filled with gas so it didn't float. Scott From paul-amo at comcast.net Mon May 24 21:13:30 2010 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 23:13:30 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin fuel sender In-Reply-To: <8CCC9BC6EEB168A-11C0-5D87@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCC9BC6EEB168A-11C0-5D87@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BFB405A.7040801@comcast.net> I have a nagging problem that I have had for about 15 years, maybe someone is familiar with: In order to start my car, I have to pump the peddle first ( before I even turn the key) about 75 times. I thought maybe the carb had an internal fuel leak and the bowl needed refilled. I rebuilt the carb. I have rebuilt carbs before with ok success - I am not anywhere near expert. But the carb and problem were identical to that before I started. The car runs fine except for the pesky fuel needing "primed". Does anyone have any ideas? Am I wrong to think it's the carb. Some other part of the fuel system? Maybe I am mis-diagnosing the problem. Scott, did you have any of the symptoms like mine with your fuel sender? Thanks to everyone in advance for any words of wisdom. Paul Amoroso #1207 isensee at aol.com wrote: > I got my Bricklin fuel sender replaced tonight. That wasn't a very fun job. > It is a hard spot to get to, the old sender was in very solid, the fuel hose > cracked and ran a good stream of gas down my arm. Finally got the new one in > though and it works fine now.The old sender had a brass float and that had > filled with gas so it didn't float. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/paul-amo at comcast.net From rick at hightechcoatings.com Tue May 25 03:45:00 2010 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 05:45:00 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin fuel sender Message-ID: first if the fuel bowl was full of fuel it would only take about 1015 pumps for the accelerator pump to empty it, so pumping 75 time is worthless. If the bowl is empty 75 pumps is just an exercise in futility. questions: how much shot does the fuel pump have? is it shooting all 75 pumps? How long has the car sat before you have to do this routine? are there any stains on the intake? did you check the accelerator pump check valve when you rebuilt your carb? when one of my cars sit for a long time I usually crank it till it builds oil pressure, then the fuel pump should have filled the carb, give a pump or 3 and it starts right up, if not I fill the carb with gas thru the vent and it starts immediately Rick On 5/24/2010 11:13:30 PM, Paul J. Amoroso (paul-amo at comcast.net) wrote: > I have a nagging problem that I have had for about 15 years, maybe > someone is familiar with: In order to start my car, I have to pump the > peddle first ( before I even turn the key) about 75 times. I thought > maybe the carb had an internal fuel leak and the bowl needed refilled. > I rebuilt the carb. I have rebuilt carbs before with ok success - I am > not anywhere near expert. But the carb and problem were identical to > that before I started. The car runs fine except for the pesky fuel > needing "primed". > > Does anyone have any ideas? Am I wrong to think > it's the carb. Some > other part of the fuel system? Maybe I am mis-diagnosing the problem. > Scott, did you have any of the symptoms like mine with your fuel sender? > > Thanks to everyone in advance for any words of wisdom. > > Paul Amoroso > #1207 > > > > isensee at aol.com wrote: > > I got my Bricklin fuel sender replaced tonight. That wasn't > a very fun job. > > It is a hard spot to get to, the old sender was in very solid, the fuel > hose > > cracked and ran a good stream of gas down my arm. Finally got the new > one in > > though and it works fine now.The From rick at hightechcoatings.com Tue May 25 06:02:39 2010 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 08:02:39 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] strut arm bushings Message-ID: <08A71678C2524827BBFB0178314B806E@work> TRW HB1044 On 5/24/2010 6:33:01 PM, google Eyes (maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com) wrote: > Is there a part # for the strut arm bushings on the Brick also does > anyone From isensee at aol.com Tue May 25 06:06:56 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 08:06:56 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin fuel sender In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCCA19E7B24053-1674-22FD@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> The fuel sender just affects the reading on the gas gauge. It sounds like a carburetor problem. Look down the throat of the carb as you pump the linkage to see if it is spraying a good stream of gas in. Most likely you have a problem with the accelerator pump. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Rick at High Tech Coatings To: bl Sent: Tue, May 25, 2010 4:45 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Bricklin fuel sender first if the fuel bowl was full of fuel it would only take about 1015 pumps for the accelerator pump to empty it, so pumping 75 time is worthless. If the bowl is empty 75 pumps is just an exercise in futility. questions: how much shot does the fuel pump have? is it shooting all 75 pumps? How long has the car sat before you have to do this routine? are there any stains on the intake? did you check the accelerator pump check valve when you rebuilt your carb? when one of my cars sit for a long time I usually crank it till it builds oil pressure, then the fuel pump should have filled the carb, give a pump or 3 and it starts right up, if not I fill the carb with gas thru the vent and it starts immediately Rick On 5/24/2010 11:13:30 PM, Paul J. Amoroso (paul-amo at comcast.net) wrote: > I have a nagging problem that I have had for about 15 years, maybe > someone is familiar with: In order to start my car, I have to pump the > peddle first ( before I even turn the key) about 75 times. I thought > maybe the carb had an internal fuel leak and the bowl needed refilled. > I rebuilt the carb. I have rebuilt carbs before with ok success - I am > not anywhere near expert. But the carb and problem were identical to > that before I started. The car runs fine except for the pesky fuel > needing "primed". > > Does anyone have any ideas? Am I wrong to think > it's the carb. Some > other part of the fuel system? Maybe I am mis-diagnosing the problem. > Scott, did you have any of the symptoms like mine with your fuel sender? > > Thanks to everyone in advance for any words of wisdom. > > Paul Amoroso > #1207 > > > > isensee at aol.com wrote: > > I got my Bricklin fuel sender replaced tonight. That wasn't > a very fun job. > > It is a hard spot to get to, the old sender was in very solid, the fuel > hose > > cracked and ran a good stream of gas down my arm. Finally got the new > one in > > though and it works fine now.The _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From paul-amo at comcast.net Thu May 27 14:00:57 2010 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:00:57 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin fuel sender In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BFECF79.2@comcast.net> From paul-amo at comcast.net Thu May 27 14:26:45 2010 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:26:45 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Resending to Team Message-ID: <4BFED585.5020300@comcast.net> Hi Thanks to all the responses. I had to dig my car out of the junk that was piled up on and around my car in the garage. In answer to Rick's questions and Scott's and Marvin's: When the pedal is first pumped, there is no discernible spray until about 60 or better. So your analysis, I follow. The gas isn't to the carb at that point. Then after it gets there it takes a few more to have enough in the carb to fire. I don't drive my car much (has only about 17K original miles) but I start it and let it run until warm at least once every two months. Have been doing this since 1982, when I bought it. But usually after one or two days, I would still have to pump it like 75 times to start it. When I rebuilt the carb, about 15 years ago, I THINK (not positive) that I looked at the accelerator pump check valve. If I don't pump the gas pedal prior to even cranking, it would take forever to build up enough to start. So there IS a leak somewhere, probably internally, like a seal or gasket. (I never have any fuel on the floor or anywhere). It runs fine, just takes a lot to get it started. By the way, I got an e-mail to me, not the whole group, of someone else who has the exact same thing happening to him. So based on your questions and discussions, I think you've led me to the prime suspect being the fuel pump. Thank you for your exceptional insights. I'll have to get the new pump and follow up to let you know. Thanks again. Paul Rick at High Tech Coatings wrote: first if the fuel bowl was full of fuel it would only take about 1015 pumps for the accelerator pump to empty it, so pumping 75 time is worthless. If the bowl is empty 75 pumps is just an exercise in futility. questions: how much shot does the fuel pump have? is it shooting all 75 pumps? How long has the car sat before you have to do this routine? are there any stains on the intake? did you check the accelerator pump check valve when you rebuilt your carb? when one of my cars sit for a long time I usually crank it till it builds oil pressure, then the fuel pump should have filled the carb, give a pump or 3 and it starts right up, if not I fill the carb with gas thru the vent and it starts immediately Rick On 5/24/2010 11:13:30 PM, Paul J. Amoroso (paul-amo at comcast.net) wrote: I have a nagging problem that I have had for about 15 years, maybe someone is familiar with: In order to start my car, I have to pump the peddle first ( before I even turn the key) about 75 times. I thought maybe the carb had an internal fuel leak and the bowl needed refilled. I rebuilt the carb. I have rebuilt carbs before with ok success - I am not anywhere near expert. But the carb and problem were identical to that before I started. The car runs fine except for the pesky fuel needing "primed". Does anyone have any ideas? Am I wrong to think it's the carb. Some other part of the fuel system? Maybe I am mis-diagnosing the problem. Scott, did you have any of the symptoms like mine with your fuel sender? Thanks to everyone in advance for any words of wisdom. Paul Amoroso #1207 From ustow at ptd.net Thu May 27 16:31:53 2010 From: ustow at ptd.net (George T. Geissinger) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 18:31:53 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Resending to Team References: <4BFED585.5020300@comcast.net> Message-ID: Paul, I agree with the fuel pump OR maybe a small leak in a line letting the gas leak out. But if you don't run it for a long time the carb will be out of gas no matter what. Pumping the gas with an empty carb does NOTHING but kill the accelerator pump by working it dry. you foot does nothing to bring gas up. The first pump or two allows the choke to close if it isn't stuck after that it is all up to the fuel pump to fill the carb. Try cranking the engine for about the length of time it was taking you to pump the engine your 75 or so times then pump it a few times and see what happens. 127GEORGE!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul J. Amoroso" To: Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 4:26 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Resending to Team > Hi > > Thanks to all the responses. I had to dig my car out of the junk that was > piled up on and around my car in the garage. > > In answer to Rick's questions and Scott's and Marvin's: > > When the pedal is first pumped, there is no discernible spray until about > 60 or better. So your analysis, I follow. The gas isn't to the carb at > that point. Then after it gets there it takes a few more to have enough > in the carb to fire. I don't drive my car much (has only about 17K > original miles) but I start it and let it run until warm at least once > every two months. Have been doing this since 1982, when I bought it. But > usually after one or two days, I would still have to pump it like 75 times > to start it. > > When I rebuilt the carb, about 15 years ago, I THINK (not positive) that I > looked at the accelerator pump check valve. > > If I don't pump the gas pedal prior to even cranking, it would take > forever to build up enough to start. So there IS a leak somewhere, > probably internally, like a seal or gasket. (I never have any fuel on the > floor or anywhere). It runs fine, just takes a lot to get it started. > > By the way, I got an e-mail to me, not the whole group, of someone else > who has the exact same thing happening to him. > > So based on your questions and discussions, I think you've led me to the > prime suspect being the fuel pump. Thank you for your exceptional > insights. I'll have to get the new pump and follow up to let you know. > Thanks again. > > Paul > > > Rick at High Tech Coatings wrote: > > first if the fuel bowl was full of fuel it would only take about 1015 > pumps > for the accelerator pump to empty it, so pumping 75 time is worthless. If > the > bowl is empty 75 pumps is just an exercise in futility. > > questions: > how much shot does the fuel pump have? > is it shooting all 75 pumps? > How long has the car sat before you have to do this routine? > are there any stains on the intake? > did you check the accelerator pump check valve when you rebuilt your carb? > > when one of my cars sit for a long time I usually crank it till it builds > oil > pressure, then the fuel pump should have filled the carb, give a pump or 3 > and > it starts right up, if not I fill the carb with gas thru the vent and it > starts immediately > > Rick > > On 5/24/2010 11:13:30 PM, Paul J. Amoroso (paul-amo at comcast.net) wrote: > > I have a nagging problem that I have had for about 15 years, maybe > someone is familiar with: In order to start my car, I have to pump the > peddle first ( before I even turn the key) about 75 times. I thought > maybe the carb had an internal fuel leak and the bowl needed refilled. > I rebuilt the carb. I have rebuilt carbs before with ok success - I am > not anywhere near expert. But the carb and problem were identical to > that before I started. The car runs fine except for the pesky fuel > needing "primed". > > Does anyone have any ideas? Am I wrong to think > it's the carb. Some > other part of the fuel system? Maybe I am mis-diagnosing the problem. > Scott, did you have any of the symptoms like mine with your fuel sender? > > Thanks to everyone in advance for any words of wisdom. > > Paul Amoroso > #1207 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/ustow at ptd.net From isensee at aol.com Fri May 28 10:01:55 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 12:01:55 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] A gullwing from the government Message-ID: <8CCCC963AEF2C24-DA4-8B8A@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> I guess this is old news, but it is the first I have heard of it. http://tinyurl.com/2vrqf6d Scott From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri May 28 16:24:00 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 18:24:00 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Free Concert in NY, OH, PA Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100528182053.04701b30@cox.net> Hey gang, As you know, my son is in the Army Field Band. Well they are going on the road again starting the end of June. The schedule is below. So if you can try and get out to see the concert. I've been to at least 3 of them and they are fantastic!!! John ---------- Bensalem, PA - June 23 - 7:00 PM T.D. Bank Amphitheater , For information call 301-677-6586. Williamsport, PA - June 24 - 7:30 PM Community Arts Center , For information call 570-326-1551 Elizabethtown, PA - June 25 - 7:00 PM Formal Gardens , For information call 301-677-6586. Latrobe, PA - June 26 - 7:30 PM Greater Latrobe Senior High School Auditorium , For information call 301-677-6586. Chautauqua, NY - June 27 -2:30 PM Chautauqua Amphitheater , For information call 301-677-6586. Franklin, PA - June 28 - 7:30 PM South Park Bandstand , For information call 301-677-6586. Springfield, OH - June 29 - 8:00 PM Veteran's Park Amphitheater , For information call 301-677-6586. Sandusky, OH - June 30 - 7:30 PM Sandusky High School Auditorium , For information call 301-677-6586. Medina, OH - July 1 - 7:00 PM Medina Performing Arts Center , For information call 330-636-3400 Wooster, OH - July 2 - 7:00 PM Public Square , For information call 301-677-6586. Boardman, OH - July 3 - 8:00 PM Boardman Park - Maag Outdoor Theatre , For information call 301-677-6586. Pittsburgh, PA - July 4 - 8:00 PM Point State Park Main Stage , For information call 301-677-6586. -------------- John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Fri May 28 17:41:23 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 18:41:23 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Engine Problem Running Correctly Message-ID: I am having a problem with the engine when it is running like it is starving for air. It seems to run better if I remove a vacuum hoses than when they are attached. Engine starts fine every time, but when I try to drive it cuts out and drives rough. I am open for any suggestions to check out. Just trying to get the car ready to take to the meet, but I am not making any good progress. I would like to make some short trips locally, increasing the distance to make sure everything is ready for the long trip. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri May 28 18:15:38 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 20:15:38 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Engine Problem Running Correctly In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100528201052.04702e68@cox.net> At 07:41 PM 5/28/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >I am having a problem with the engine when it is running like it is starving >for air. It seems to run better if I remove a vacuum hoses than when they are >attached. Engine starts fine every time, but when I try to drive it cuts out >and drives rough. I am open for any suggestions to check out. Just trying to >get the car ready to take to the meet, but I am not making any good progress. >I would like to make some short trips locally, increasing the distance to make >sure everything is ready for the long trip. Greg, Does it act up when cold, or when both hot and cold. If it appears to be temp. sensative, could you have one the vac. lines to one of the vac. control devices (don't remember what they are called - temp switched vac ports) on wrong? If both, try checking your EGR valve. Make sure it's closing. The last thing I can think of is a clogged idle port/jet in the carb. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From ustow at ptd.net Fri May 28 19:00:52 2010 From: ustow at ptd.net (George T. Geissinger) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 21:00:52 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] A gullwing from the government References: <8CCCC963AEF2C24-DA4-8B8A@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: WOW a Gull Wing Pacer !!! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 12:01 PM Subject: [Bricklin] A gullwing from the government > I guess this is old news, but it is the first I have heard of it. > http://tinyurl.com/2vrqf6d > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/ustow at ptd.net From gschroeder at comcast.net Fri May 28 23:58:30 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 00:58:30 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Engine Problem Running Correctly References: Message-ID: I believe I have found the problem. Checked the compression with my thumb over the spark plug hole and found one cylinder that I could feel the vacuum on the intake, but nothing on the compression stroke back up. I decided to pull the head and after a few hours had the head off and there is a bent intake valve that could never close. So now to find a replacement valve and either fix it or have it replaced at the machine shop where I had the engine machining done. Pulling heads off two different cars in one week. Oh what fun. My daily driver Toyota Supra blew a head gasket last week and I planned to pull it over the holiday. If I get it to Lexington, my engine may look at little dirty since getting it running is my first priority. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat May 29 05:45:53 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 07:45:53 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Engine Problem Running Correctly In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100529074357.0489ff38@cox.net> At 01:58 AM 5/29/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >I believe I have found the problem. Checked the compression with my thumb >over the spark plug hole and found one cylinder that I could feel the vacuum on >the intake, but nothing on the compression stroke back up. I decided to pull the >head and after a few hours had the head off and there is a bent intake valve >that could never close. So now to find a replacement valve and either fix it or >have it replaced at the machine shop where I had the engine machining done. Greg, Glad to hear you found the problem!!! Sorry to hear it's a bent valve. I was hoping for a much simpler solution. :) But I've been there with my Morgan. Although it wasn't a bend valve, it was a stuck one. Was able to free it up without pulling the head. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Sat May 29 13:01:41 2010 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 19:01:41 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] 74 alternator Message-ID: anyone know off what car can i get a 74 alternator 360 tks serge From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat May 29 13:22:50 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 14:22:50 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] 74 alternator References: Message-ID: <0AA46D30E01F4FF9AB69FC020CA7605F@greg> Serge, I normally cross refrerence a 74 Javlin, but probably any 74 AMC will work. I replaced mine with a stock amperage, you may want to look at a higher amperage if you have updated your car with additional electronics or expect to in the future. It will probably double the cost of stock. Greg 0036