From serge.ber at sympatico.ca  Wed Mar  3 05:05:01 2010
From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 12:05:01 +0000
Subject: [Bricklin] header bolts for 360
Message-ID: <BAY121-W446EE48A8DFE82B65FECD68C3A0@phx.gbl>

anyone out there got specs on size of the header bolts and the two lower bolts
holding the donut,,,cant find my book ...tks you serge

From deardotti at hotmail.com  Wed Mar  3 13:18:46 2010
From: deardotti at hotmail.com (Erica T.)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 12:18:46 -0800
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Mod Questions
Message-ID: <SNT106-W197638312348BB4EC13600BF3A0@phx.gbl>

Hi, I am a new Bricklin owner in Southern CA. My '75 Brick sat for a while
before I got it and I am trying to get it nice again.

The horn, wipers, and radio don't work.


One of my doors has an air leak on the hydraulic that drains the
battery via the compressor. What kind of shop would you go to to fix it or buy
parts needed? Is a replacement possible?

What
kind of set up do most people have for their battery? I have one deep
cycle battery that powers everything, someone told me to get a dry cell
battery. Has anyone tried to use a separate battery for their
compressor or a "jump" battery?

And how do I keep the thing from losing charge until I fix the hydraulic (I
say hydraulic, but it is converted to air)?

Where can I see another Bricklin?

Well anything you could share knowledge on is greatly appreciated!

-Erica
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/

From isensee at aol.com  Wed Mar  3 13:44:13 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 15:44:13 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Mod Questions
In-Reply-To: <SNT106-W197638312348BB4EC13600BF3A0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT106-W197638312348BB4EC13600BF3A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC89295C44A133-14EC-5104@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>

 Welcome to the world of Bricklins.

You can check for air leaks by brushing some water with dishwashing soap on
each connection point. Small leaks will form bubbles.


I wired my electric air compressor through a relay that connects to an
ignition switched power source so that the compressor won't run when the
ignition switch is off. That keeps the compressor from running down the
battery.

One battery should be fine. I use a deep cycle battery since the battery can
get drawn down a bit when the compressor has to pump up the pressure from near
zero and the engine needs to crank a while to start after sitting around.

If the air pressure gets low in mine, I pump it up with an external compressor
so as not to work the internal compressor and battery so hard.

John Blair has a list of club members and may be able to point you to one near
you so you can look at another Bricklin.



 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Erica T. <deardotti at hotmail.com>
To: bricklin at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Mar 3, 2010 2:18 pm
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Mod Questions


Hi, I am a new Bricklin owner in Southern CA. My '75 Brick sat for a while
before I got it and I am trying to get it nice again.

The horn, wipers, and radio don't work.


One of my doors has an air leak on the hydraulic that drains the
battery via the compressor. What kind of shop would you go to to fix it or
buy
parts needed? Is a replacement possible?

What
kind of set up do most people have for their battery? I have one deep
cycle battery that powers everything, someone told me to get a dry cell
battery. Has anyone tried to use a separate battery for their
compressor or a "jump" battery?

And how do I keep the thing from losing charge until I fix the hydraulic (I
say hydraulic, but it is converted to air)?

Where can I see another Bricklin?

Well anything you could share knowledge on is greatly appreciated!

-Erica
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/
Bricklin at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin

You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


=

From breton48 at live.com  Wed Mar  3 13:54:18 2010
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 13:54:18 -0700
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Mod Questions
In-Reply-To: <SNT106-W197638312348BB4EC13600BF3A0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT106-W197638312348BB4EC13600BF3A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <bay141-DS130202EF3E1A42075A892BAF3A0@phx.gbl>

I believe there are more Bricklins in Southern California than anywhere
else!  Hopefully someone with a Bricklin in So Cal will respond to your
posting. There is a shop in Riverside which always seems to have at least
one or two worked on, I'll give you the contact information if you wish.
This shop was recommended by a local  (So Cal) Bricklin owner, and this is
where my Bricklin had a new air system installed.  A couple of vendors who
contribute to this list can supply the parts. If you are a member of the
Bricklin club, there is a lot of good information (vendors, technical
articles/tips, etc) on the Bricklin club website.

I ended up buying a gel cell battery for my Bricklin. One of the reasons I
got it is that there is no chance for acid to spill when you remove the
battery from the rather awkwardly placed battery compartment.

Unless the car has sentimental value to you, and/or money is no object,
watch out for the cost of repairs: My car also sat in a So Cal garage before
I acquired it, and I spent far more money in having it repaired than the car
will likely ever be worth. The car still has problems. If I had to do it all
again, I would take my time and do as much of the repair work myself.

I also had a problem with the battery charge leaking. My solution has been
to disconnect the battery, but there is something called a "Battery Brain",
an electric/electronic device which lets you disconnect (or reconnect) the
battery at the touch of a button (remote control). John T. Blair has written
an article about that. I have one which I have not installed yet, I will get
the details off the box if you wish.

JLC in Colorado

----------------------------------------------------------

Erica wrote: 
Hi, I am a new Bricklin owner in Southern CA. My '75 Brick sat for a while
before I got it and I am trying to get it nice again.

The horn, wipers, and radio don't work.


One of my doors has an air leak on the hydraulic that drains the
battery via the compressor. What kind of shop would you go to to fix it or
buy
parts needed? Is a replacement possible?

What
kind of set up do most people have for their battery? I have one deep
cycle battery that powers everything, someone told me to get a dry cell
battery. Has anyone tried to use a separate battery for their
compressor or a "jump" battery?

And how do I keep the thing from losing charge until I fix the hydraulic (I
say hydraulic, but it is converted to air)?

Where can I see another Bricklin?

Well anything you could share knowledge on is greatly appreciated!

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed Mar  3 14:14:34 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 16:14:34 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Mod Questions
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100303161404.044067e0@cox.net>

At 03:18 PM 3/3/2010, you wrote:

 >The horn, wipers, and radio don't work.

Erica,

You really should join the club.  We have done articles on the horn,  wipers,
and one on installing a better radio in past issues of the club's 
magazine, "The
Brickline".

I've attached the article on trouble shooting the horn.

 >One of my doors has an air leak on the hydraulic that drains the 
battery via the
 >compressor.

If you're car has the air doors, the there is NO hydraulics to the 
doors.  The air
leak would cause the compressor to cycle draining your battery.  That's why you
should use the cut off swtich for the compressor (usually mounted on the cross
brase behind the bumper).

 > What kind of shop would you go to to fix it or buy parts needed?

I'll tell you what I tell most people, that is, "Go look in the 
mirror".  That is the
only person that gives a damn about your car.   If you plan on having a shop
fix every little thing that goes wrong with the car, you'll go 
broke.  You'll probably
want to learn to do some of the work yourself.  Like finding the air 
leak and fixing
it.  That's a relatively simple job.

Do you have any tools?  You might want to read the article I wrote about tools,
"A Serious Look at Tools for the Automotive Hobbyist's Workshop",
http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/tools/part1/art017_1.html

Since you are in the Navy, you have access to the auto hobby shop.  They will
lend you a lot of the tool and provide some very nice ones, that you 
can't afford,
like a lift.

As to a shop, you'll have to go to a lot of independant garages and 
see if they
will work on the car.  Many will NOT, for several reasons, no 
documentation, no
listed in their flat rate books so they don't know what to charge, etc.

But if you do find a shop that might work on the car, you've found something.
They will probably ask you for documentation on the various areas of the car,
like electrical, air system for the doors, etc.   Most of which I can help you
with.

You'll probably need wiring diags (which were never released by Bricklin.  I
have developed a 36 page package on the wiring I sell for $30, club members
get a $5 discount),

 >Is  a replacement possible?

For what, the entire air system?  Yes, it costs about $2,000.  However, you can
replace all the pieces without having to buy a new system.

 >What kind of set up do most people have for their battery? I have one deep
 >cycle battery that powers everything, someone told me to get a dry cell
 >battery. Has anyone tried to use a separate battery for their 
compressor or a
 >"jump" battery?

The car originally had one standard wet cell, side mount, 12VDC battery that
powers everything.  I replaced my side mount with a top post 
battery.  It makes
it easier to connect and remove the electrical connectors.

You're dry cell, is that one of the Optma batteries?  They are 
usually very good
batterys, and expensive.

You only need 1 battery.  A jump box might not be a bad thing, but the problem
with the Bricklin is that if you have a dead battery, you can't get 
to anything to
jump it.  You'll have to open the rear hatch, crawl in, and then jump 
the battery.
A real pain with the side mount posts.

There is a remote control battery switch you can install.  I've 
attached an article
I wrote about them.  That might be a very good idea for you, or find out what
is drawing down your battery.

If you go over to the auto hobby shop and talk to some of the people there, you
may find someone that is willing to help you.  The only problem with 
this is they
may not really know what they are doing.

 >And how do I keep the thing from losing charge until I fix the 
hydraulic (I say
 >hydraulic, but it is converted to air)?

Then say air. :)

You will need to find out what is drawing down the battery.  If it is 
the  compressor cycling due to an air leak, use the compressor cut 
off switch to
turn the compressor off when you are not driving it.  Then find your air leak
and fix it.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Mar  5 09:23:48 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 11:23:48 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305111649.0466ffb0@cox.net>

Anyone happen to have the Jan '10 issue handy?

I need to know the VOLUME and ISSUE number of the front cover, and the
inside of the front cover.  Need to know if they are the same.

I know, you're asking why am I asking - I publish the mag!  Well, Jan 1st the
wife tour down my old computer room which was our breakfast nook to paint,
repair the drywall, pull up the floor, etc.

Then I got set up in the small bed room.  Feb 1st, my computer died and I had
to get a new one.  When I went to start setting that up, she said to 
put it up in
the large bedroom, and we'd also paint the little bed room before we moved
all my junk into that room.

So my house is a disaster area.  I can't find anything!  At least we 
have finished
with the painting, and I have the computer functional in the little 
bed room, and
am slowly moving things in.  I have about 3/4s of the old vinyl floor up in the
kitchen, breakfast nook, and still have to move the washer and dryer out of
the pantry and pull up that floor.  Not to mention screwing down the sub floor
in those 3 rooms. :)

Oh I also had to replace a hot water heater, and was down for several days with
a head cold.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From panepintos at verizon.net  Fri Mar  5 10:10:34 2010
From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto)
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 12:10:34 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305111649.0466ffb0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <212C57988E054E03B4AC0FC30E2D8B3B@Fiscal>

Volume 35, No. 1 -- they are the same on both the outside and inside front 
cover.

and I thoroughly understand!!
Smoky P

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 11:23 AM
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline


> Anyone happen to have the Jan '10 issue handy?
>
> I need to know the VOLUME and ISSUE number of the front cover, and the
> inside of the front cover.  Need to know if they are the same.
>
> I know, you're asking why am I asking - I publish the mag!  Well, Jan 1st 
> the
> wife tour down my old computer room which was our breakfast nook to paint,
> repair the drywall, pull up the floor, etc.
>
> Then I got set up in the small bed room.  Feb 1st, my computer died and I 
> had
> to get a new one.  When I went to start setting that up, she said to put 
> it up in
> the large bedroom, and we'd also paint the little bed room before we moved
> all my junk into that room.
>
> So my house is a disaster area.  I can't find anything!  At least we have 
> finished
> with the painting, and I have the computer functional in the little bed 
> room, and
> am slowly moving things in.  I have about 3/4s of the old vinyl floor up 
> in the
> kitchen, breakfast nook, and still have to move the washer and dryer out 
> of
> the pantry and pull up that floor.  Not to mention screwing down the sub 
> floor
> in those 3 rooms. :)
>
> Oh I also had to replace a hot water heater, and was down for several days 
> with
> a head cold.
>
> John
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/panepintos at verizon.net

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Fri Mar  5 10:01:26 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:01:26 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305111649.0466ffb0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <856E3F38DF28462D88C04A20FB2E3F33@greg>

John,

Cover Volume 35, Number 1 January 2010
Inside Volume 35, Number 1

Greg 0036

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline


> Anyone happen to have the Jan '10 issue handy?
>
> I need to know the VOLUME and ISSUE number of the front cover, and the
> inside of the front cover.  Need to know if they are the same.
>
> I know, you're asking why am I asking - I publish the mag!  Well, Jan 1st 
> the
> wife tour down my old computer room which was our breakfast nook to paint,
> repair the drywall, pull up the floor, etc.
>
> Then I got set up in the small bed room.  Feb 1st, my computer died and I 
> had
> to get a new one.  When I went to start setting that up, she said to put 
> it up in
> the large bedroom, and we'd also paint the little bed room before we moved
> all my junk into that room.
>
> So my house is a disaster area.  I can't find anything!  At least we have 
> finished
> with the painting, and I have the computer functional in the little bed 
> room, and
> am slowly moving things in.  I have about 3/4s of the old vinyl floor up 
> in the
> kitchen, breakfast nook, and still have to move the washer and dryer out 
> of
> the pantry and pull up that floor.  Not to mention screwing down the sub 
> floor
> in those 3 rooms. :)
>
> Oh I also had to replace a hot water heater, and was down for several days 
> with
> a head cold.
>
> John
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gschroeder at comcast.net

From colemaal at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  5 10:23:48 2010
From: colemaal at hotmail.com (Alan Coleman)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 17:23:48 +0000
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305111649.0466ffb0@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305111649.0466ffb0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <SNT109-W169AF27142603A92DB2D5BCB380@phx.gbl>

Vol. 35, No.1













> Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:23:48 -0500
> To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
> From: jblair1948 at cox.net
> Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline
>
> Anyone happen to have the Jan '10 issue handy?
>
> I need to know the VOLUME and ISSUE number of the front cover, and the
> inside of the front cover. Need to know if they are the same.
>
> I know, you're asking why am I asking - I publish the mag! Well, Jan 1st
the
> wife tour down my old computer room which was our breakfast nook to paint,
> repair the drywall, pull up the floor, etc.
>
> Then I got set up in the small bed room. Feb 1st, my computer died and I
had
> to get a new one. When I went to start setting that up, she said to
> put it up in
> the large bedroom, and we'd also paint the little bed room before we moved
> all my junk into that room.
>
> So my house is a disaster area. I can't find anything! At least we
> have finished
> with the painting, and I have the computer functional in the little
> bed room, and
> am slowly moving things in. I have about 3/4s of the old vinyl floor up in
the
> kitchen, breakfast nook, and still have to move the washer and dryer out of
> the pantry and pull up that floor. Not to mention screwing down the sub
floor
> in those 3 rooms. :)
>
> Oh I also had to replace a hot water heater, and was down for several days
with
> a head cold.
>
> John
>
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
> 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
> 65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/colemaal at hotmail.com
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Mar  5 11:00:53 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 13:00:53 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline
In-Reply-To: <856E3F38DF28462D88C04A20FB2E3F33@greg>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305111649.0466ffb0@cox.net>
	<856E3F38DF28462D88C04A20FB2E3F33@greg>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100305125936.04668888@cox.net>

 >Cover Volume 35, Number 1 January 2010
 >Inside Volume 35, Number 1

Thanks to all the responded!!!!

That's what I thought, but I couldn't find a hard copy, and I screwed up the
save file when I sent it to the printer last issue.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Mar  7 07:21:38 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2010 09:21:38 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] New England Show invites the Brick community
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100307091848.0441e3b0@cox.net>

Gang,

I received the following email after the April issue went to the printers.

The Bricklin community has been invited to Merrimack, NH to join in in their
car show.

John

---------------------

 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Jeffrey Torrey <jefftorrey at comcast.net>
 > Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 22:14:58
 > To: <President at Bricklin.org>
 > Subject: From the BI Contacts Page ... Northeast Exotic Car Show 2010
 >
 > James-
 >
 > Each year for the past six years I have been working with the NH 
Make-a-Wish
 > Foundation and the New England Viper Club, on a car show called the
 > Northeast Exotic Car Show.
 >
 > It has been promoted and supported through the Exotic Car Community and
 > their Forums.. My intention for this year is to get the Bricklin Community
 > to participate. My request is that you help promote this years 
show and send
 > out an invitation to the New England Bricklin Owners. The date for this
 > years Show is Saturday August 21st. On the lawn at the 
Anheuser-Bush Brewery
 > in Merrimack, NH. Rain Date is Saturday August 28th.
 >
 > In the past we have had great response from the DeLorean Owners 
and one year
 > we even hosted their Regional Event. So far we have only seen one Bricklin
 > at the show. Looking through your registry there are 40 cars within a two
 > hour drive of this event.
 >
 > I have tried to post a message to the Bricklin mailing list outlining the
 > event, but It was treated as spam and the message was blocked. Anything you
 > could do to help me involve the Bricklin owners in the area would 
be greatly
 > appreciated.
 >
 > Info related to the show can be found on the website:
 > www.northeastexotic.com <>
 > Please contact me if you have any questions, or to discuss your interest in
 > the show.
 >
 > Thanks,- Jeff Torrey / Northeast Exotic Car Show
 >
 > Past President New England Viper Club
 > Trustee New England Lotus Club
 > Member TVR Car Club of America

-----------------------
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From panepintos at verizon.net  Mon Mar  8 10:22:48 2010
From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto)
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 12:22:48 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] New England Show invites the Brick community
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20100307091848.0441e3b0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <B7A2523C9D034E0F9D3655CD42323EBB@Fiscal>

I like that association - the 'B' in an Exotic show...
Its about time it/we get a foothold in the world of auto marque prestige!

Smoky P
'75 Bricklin #1302, Suntan
original owner

'63 Lincoln Convertible, Black



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 9:21 AM
Subject: [Bricklin] New England Show invites the Brick community


> Gang,
>
> I received the following email after the April issue went to the printers.
>
> The Bricklin community has been invited to Merrimack, NH to join in in 
> their
> car show.
>
> John
>
> ---------------------
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeffrey Torrey <jefftorrey at comcast.net>
> > Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 22:14:58
> > To: <President at Bricklin.org>
> > Subject: From the BI Contacts Page ... Northeast Exotic Car Show 2010
> >
> > James-
> >
> > Each year for the past six years I have been working with the NH
> Make-a-Wish
> > Foundation and the New England Viper Club, on a car show called the
> > Northeast Exotic Car Show.
> >
> > It has been promoted and supported through the Exotic Car Community and
> > their Forums.. My intention for this year is to get the Bricklin 
> > Community
> > to participate. My request is that you help promote this years
> show and send
> > out an invitation to the New England Bricklin Owners. The date for this
> > years Show is Saturday August 21st. On the lawn at the
> Anheuser-Bush Brewery
> > in Merrimack, NH. Rain Date is Saturday August 28th.
> >
> > In the past we have had great response from the DeLorean Owners
> and one year
> > we even hosted their Regional Event. So far we have only seen one 
> > Bricklin
> > at the show. Looking through your registry there are 40 cars within a 
> > two
> > hour drive of this event.
> >
> > I have tried to post a message to the Bricklin mailing list outlining 
> > the
> > event, but It was treated as spam and the message was blocked. Anything 
> > you
> > could do to help me involve the Bricklin owners in the area would
> be greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Info related to the show can be found on the website:
> > www.northeastexotic.com <>
> > Please contact me if you have any questions, or to discuss your interest 
> > in
> > the show.
> >
> > Thanks,- Jeff Torrey / Northeast Exotic Car Show
> >
> > Past President New England Viper Club
> > Trustee New England Lotus Club
> > Member TVR Car Club of America
>
> -----------------------
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/panepintos at verizon.net

From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  8 18:31:49 2010
From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 17:31:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Bricklin] Go to guy-parts-info request
Message-ID: <469402.23538.qm@web57408.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Hi,
 
My friends and I are restoring  a 1975 Bricklin SV-1. It has not been started
in over 3 years and I need to familiarize myself with all the workings. I know
that the engine is a 351 Windsor and I am assuming the tranny is AMC & the
rear end  I've been told is Jeep but I am not certtain. Who do I ask to find
out all of these details and get the correct information so as to do the job
right and get all the correct parts?
 
Thank you,
Randy Houston
#1045
Yucca Valley, CA

From sbunin at cablespeed.com  Mon Mar  8 19:08:51 2010
From: sbunin at cablespeed.com (Seth)
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 21:08:51 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Go to guy-parts-info request
In-Reply-To: <469402.23538.qm@web57408.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <469402.23538.qm@web57408.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B95ADB3.1020106@cablespeed.com>

Randy,

You can get a lot the relevant info from the bricklin website 
http://www.bricklin.org/BI_Specifications.htm

For the '75,  you're correct, the engine is the Ford 351W. The trans is 
a Ford FMX and the rear axle is a Dana 20.

Seth
#1544


On 3/8/2010 8:31 PM, Randy Houston wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My friends and I are restoring  a 1975 Bricklin SV-1. It has not been started
> in over 3 years and I need to familiarize myself with all the workings. I know
> that the engine is a 351 Windsor and I am assuming the tranny is AMC&  the
> rear end  I've been told is Jeep but I am not certtain. Who do I ask to find
> out all of these details and get the correct information so as to do the job
> right and get all the correct parts?
>
> Thank you,
> Randy Houston
> #1045
> Yucca Valley, CA
> _______________________________________________

From isensee at aol.com  Mon Mar  8 19:28:59 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 21:28:59 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Exhaust hanger
Message-ID: <8CC8D47690148E3-73E8-50EB@webmail-m003.sysops.aol.com>

 Does anyone have a part number for the exhaust hangers that are next to the
muffler and attach to the frame?

Scott

From breton48 at live.com  Mon Mar  8 20:38:51 2010
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 20:38:51 -0700
Subject: [Bricklin] Go to guy-parts-info request
In-Reply-To: <469402.23538.qm@web57408.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <469402.23538.qm@web57408.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <bay141-DS17F30BBEAEB8D5CE131E72AF340@phx.gbl>

Yes, the engine is the Ford Windsor 351, the transmission is  the three
speed Ford FMX.  The rear axle is a Dana 20, common to many AMC vehicles of
the era. 

If you join the Bricklin club, you will find a lot of very useful
information (including a Tech Database) on the club website -
http://www.bricklin.org/. A member and club official (John T. Blair) has
wiring diagrams, and various vendors supply hard to get parts. As a member
of the club, you can purchase computer CDs whose content is past magazines
which have many, many articles invaluable to someone restoring or repairing
a Bricklin.

JLC in Colorado
----------------------

Randy H. wrote: Hi,
 
My friends and I are restoring  a 1975 Bricklin SV-1. It has not been
started
in over 3 years and I need to familiarize myself with all the workings. I
know
that the engine is a 351 Windsor and I am assuming the tranny is AMC & the
rear end  I've been told is Jeep but I am not certtain. Who do I ask to find
out all of these details and get the correct information so as to do the job
right and get all the correct parts?

From isensee at aol.com  Fri Mar 12 10:30:19 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 12:30:19 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Check valve
Message-ID: <8CC9020D26C4052-EC8-BB@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>

I asked about a check valve a while back to put in my air line and nobody had
one to suggest, but I was able to locate one so thought I should pass along
the information in case it is helpful to someone else.

Pressure was leaking out through my electric air compressor. It has a reed
valve inside. That's a metal flap that bends to open and close. Moisture
eventually causes corrosion and the valve doesn't seal completely so air
pressure can slowly leak out when the compressor isn't running.

I spliced a check valve into the air line near the compressor. That allows air
to flow from the compressor into the storage tank, but doesn't allow it to
leak back out the opposite direction. The check valve I found is a Swagelok
B-4C-10. There is a description of it at:
http://tinyurl.com/ygwac48

Scott Isensee

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Mar 12 11:51:51 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:51:51 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Check valve
In-Reply-To: <8CC9020D26C4052-EC8-BB@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC9020D26C4052-EC8-BB@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100312134954.03b10fb8@cox.net>

At 12:30 PM 3/12/2010, isensee at aol.com wrote:

 >I asked about a check valve a while back to put in my air line and nobody had
 >one to suggest, but I was able to locate one so thought I should pass along
 >the information in case it is helpful to someone else.

 >.....

 >The check valve I found is a Swagelok B-4C-10. There is a 
description of it at:
 >http://tinyurl.com/ygwac48

Scott,

Great!!!  Where did you get it?  Locally or mail order.  What did it 
cost?  I like
the quick disconnect fittings on it.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From isensee at aol.com  Fri Mar 12 12:45:05 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (Isensee)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:45:05 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] Check valve
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100312134954.03b10fb8@cox.net>
References: <8CC9020D26C4052-EC8-BB@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100312134954.03b10fb8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <8435C5C8-AF9D-42EA-B5DA-9D54F342AC48@aol.com>

I ordered it directly from Swagelok since none of the local supply  
places carried that brand. It was around $31 with shipping so pricey,  
but it seems high quality.

It is nice not having to pump up the air every time I want to use the  
car.

Scott

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 12, 2010, at 12:51 PM, "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>  
wrote:

> At 12:30 PM 3/12/2010, isensee at aol.com wrote:
>
> >I asked about a check valve a while back to put in my air line and  
> nobody had
> >one to suggest, but I was able to locate one so thought I should  
> pass along
> >the information in case it is helpful to someone else.
>
> >.....
>
> >The check valve I found is a Swagelok B-4C-10. There is a  
> description of it at:
> >http://tinyurl.com/ygwac48
>
> Scott,
>
> Great!!!  Where did you get it?  Locally or mail order.  What did it  
> cost?  I like
> the quick disconnect fittings on it.
>
> John
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                       65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com

From jwmartin37 at aol.com  Fri Mar 12 18:00:41 2010
From: jwmartin37 at aol.com (John Martin)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:00:41 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Digest, Vol 3, Issue 25
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23.1268420403.29228.bricklin@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23.1268420403.29228.bricklin@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CC905FBCF62DEA-8D60-4C3A@webmail-m026.sysops.aol.com>

Hey Scott,
?
It has been a while.? Hope all is well with U.
?
Just a thought on your new check valve.??? When the pump shuts off, water
gathers in the line, and if the line is above the pump outlet, that water can
not only drain back into the pump head, but also corrode/rust around the
internal check valve causing it to leak.? That's the most common issue with
the system.
?
Check to see if U can loop your poly tubing BELOW the pump outlet so that any
water will collect harmlessly. Also, I carry the 18" stainless braided leader
hose with a check valve built in that is just for this purpose.? U can loop it
as mentioned.
?
John Martin




John Martin VIN 704 & 1973
16754 E. Ave. X
Space 25
Llano, Ca. 93544
Home-661 944 4801  Cell-661 317 9414
jwmartin37 at aol.com


-----Original Message-----
From: bricklin-request at autox.team.net
To: bricklin at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Mar 12, 2010 11:00 am
Subject: Bricklin Digest, Vol 3, Issue 25




Send Bricklin mailing list submissions to
    bricklin at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    bricklin-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
    bricklin-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Bricklin digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Check valve (isensee at aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------


_______________________________________________
Bricklin mailing list
Bricklin at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin


End of Bricklin Digest, Vol 3, Issue 25
***************************************

From paul-amo at comcast.net  Sat Mar 13 01:21:24 2010
From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 03:21:24 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Check valve
In-Reply-To: <8435C5C8-AF9D-42EA-B5DA-9D54F342AC48@aol.com>
References: <8CC9020D26C4052-EC8-BB@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100312134954.03b10fb8@cox.net>
	<8435C5C8-AF9D-42EA-B5DA-9D54F342AC48@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B9B4B04.4030506@comcast.net>

I got one from Surplus Center, www.surpluscenter.com for about $17.  
They've got a lot of other interesting stuff there besides.

Paul-Amo
#1207


Isensee wrote:
> I ordered it directly from Swagelok since none of the local supply 
> places carried that brand. It was around $31 with shipping so pricey, 
> but it seems high quality.
>
> It is nice not having to pump up the air every time I want to use the 
> car.
>
> Scott
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 12, 2010, at 12:51 PM, "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:
>
>> At 12:30 PM 3/12/2010, isensee at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> >I asked about a check valve a while back to put in my air line and 
>> nobody had
>> >one to suggest, but I was able to locate one so thought I should 
>> pass along
>> >the information in case it is helpful to someone else.
>>
>> >.....
>>
>> >The check valve I found is a Swagelok B-4C-10. There is a 
>> description of it at:
>> >http://tinyurl.com/ygwac48
>>
>> Scott,
>>
>> Great!!!  Where did you get it?  Locally or mail order.  What did it 
>> cost?  I like
>> the quick disconnect fittings on it.
>>
>> John
>>
>> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
>> Va. Beach, Va
>> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>>
>>          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>>     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>>                       65 Rambler Classic
>>
>> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
>> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>>
>> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
>> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Bricklin at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/paul-amo at comcast.net

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Mon Mar 15 07:33:51 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 10:33:51 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Check valve
Message-ID: <8ABD24EB92C84FE2A5CA011AA27E69F5@work>

Sorry I have been away but I have SMC check valves in stock, I sell them for
$6 @ plus the ride Grainger has the same valve for double the price
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4DHP6  I bought a box of 100 a coupe of
years ago
> >.....
>
> >The check valve I found is a Swagelok B-4C-10. There is a
> description of it at:
> >http://tinyurl.com/ygwac48
>
> Scott,
>
> Great!!!  Where did you get it?  Locally or mail order.  What did it
> cost?  I like
> the quick disconnect fittings on it.
>
> John

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Mon Mar 15 07:40:01 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 10:40:01 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] check valves
Message-ID: <3E9B6B2534B24CEF99BA3F31E60C6C5F@work>

Be careful when shopping for check valves to get one with a low cracking
pressure, if they are 10# your tank will have 10# less pressure than the
compressor side of the valve, If the crack is 100# it will not open until the
compressor has 100# more pressure than the tank. A 1# crack valve will open as
soon as the compressor starts and close when it stops.

From Robbie1746 at ra1.net  Tue Mar 16 09:08:06 2010
From: Robbie1746 at ra1.net (Robert Alexander)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 12:08:06 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Who can service my Bricklin in the Ottawa, ON, area?
Message-ID: <a06240807c7c55d49e10e@[192.168.0.196]>

Hi all,

To whom can I take my Bricklin (1746) in the Ottawa, eastern 
Ontario-area for service?  Need work on the engine (may have a 
cracked head) and on the pneumatic doors.

Thanks a lot,
Rob

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Thu Mar 18 17:41:34 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:41:34 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Army Field Band - IA, IL, IN, MI, MN, NE, OH, PA, VA, WI
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100318203831.04390728@cox.net>

Hey gang,

If you live in any of the above states, you might want to see if they 
are playing
near you (http://www.armyfieldband.com/pages/schedule/bc_sched.html).  The
concerts are free, and always very good!!!

If you make it out to a concert, try and find my son and say hello, his name
is John C. Blair and he plays Clairnet.

John




John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 18 07:07:32 2010
From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 07:07:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] 4 Important questions/Thank you
Message-ID: <775172.39380.qm@web57406.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Howdy,
 
Restoration is coming along pretty well but I've hit a few frustrating snags,
so I hope someone can help:
 
1. I am not able to get the middle hub nuts-bolts off of the rear wheels to
check/repair brakes... We literally broke a breaker bar. Can I cut the bolts &
if I do where do I get replacement parts?
 
2. How do I get window handles/door panel off without breaking/tearing
anything to get into doors to put glass back on track?
 
3. My doors do work with the car is on but the keys do no work to open them
from the outside. Is that an electrical/mechanical/compressor problem and how
do I repair that? Otherwise, I'll have to leave the windows open at all times
to get in or do the Bricklin crawl.
 
4. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement center console? Mine is in
poor shape.
 
Thank you,
Randy
#1045
Yucca Valley, CA
 

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Thu Mar 18 09:01:01 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 12:01:01 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] 4 Important questions/Thank you
Message-ID: <CE3BC3BA0B1D4C46A51BCC0FEA5A13B6@work>

> 1. I am not able to get the middle hub nuts-bolts off of the rear wheels to
> check/repair brakes... We literally broke a breaker bar. Can I cut the bolts
&
> if I do where do I get replacement parts?


do not remove the center bolt, There may be 1-3 small bolts between the studs
just remove those and pull the drum off, the hub stays on.




> 2. How do I get window handles/door panel off without breaking/tearing
> anything to get into doors to put glass back on track?


There is an Allen nut in the middle of the window crank, remove it and the
handle will come off,there is a Phillips screw in the black plastic around the
door handle, remove the screw and the snake the trim off, the door panel may
have some screws in it if so remove them if nor it should come off easy, If it
has no screws in it do not put any in!


>
> 3. My doors do work with the car is on but the keys do no work to open them
> from the outside. Is that an electrical/mechanical/compressor problem and
how
> do I repair that? Otherwise, I'll
> have to leave the windows open at all times
> to get in or do the Bricklin crawl.
>

sounds like you have an air leak, get out some soapy water and start looking
for bubbles or just change all the lines, they probably need changing
anyways.





> 4. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement center console? Mine is
> in
> poor shape.
>

good luck finding an original, both bob hoffman and terry tanner make full
length replacements.


> Thank you,
> Randy
> #1045
> Yucca Valley, CA

From isensee at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 09:20:28 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 12:20:28 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] 4 Important questions/Thank you
In-Reply-To: <CE3BC3BA0B1D4C46A51BCC0FEA5A13B6@work>
References: <CE3BC3BA0B1D4C46A51BCC0FEA5A13B6@work>
Message-ID: <8CC94CE0EAB58F4-2F8-E629@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>

 A few additions to Rick's advice.




 After you remove the 3 small bolt on the rear brake drum, if the drum is
still hard to remove, you will need to move the brake shoes in a little. There
is a rubber plug on the backing plate that you can remove and reach in with a
screwdriver or brake tool to turn the star wheel adjuster.

On your door switches question, there is a switch on the console that locks
the door switches. Make sure that is in the unlock position. If the outside
switches still don't work, you will need to trace the wires and see if there
is a break or bad connection.

Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Rick at High Tech Coatings <rick at hightechcoatings.com>
To: bl <bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Mar 18, 2010 11:01 am
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] 4 Important questions/Thank you


> 1. I am not able to get the middle hub nuts-bolts off of the rear wheels to
> check/repair brakes... We literally broke a breaker bar. Can I cut the
bolts
&
> if I do where do I get replacement parts?


do not remove the center bolt, There may be 1-3 small bolts between the studs
just remove those and pull the drum off, the hub stays on.




> 2. How do I get window handles/door panel off without breaking/tearing
> anything to get into doors to put glass back on track?


There is an Allen nut in the middle of the window crank, remove it and the
handle will come off,there is a Phillips screw in the black plastic around
the
door handle, remove the screw and the snake the trim off, the door panel may
have some screws in it if so remove them if nor it should come off easy, If
it
has no screws in it do not put any in!


>
> 3. My doors do work with the car is on but the keys do no work to open them
> from the outside. Is that an electrical/mechanical/compressor problem and
how
> do I repair that? Otherwise, I'll
> have to leave the windows open at all times
> to get in or do the Bricklin crawl.
>

sounds like you have an air leak, get out some soapy water and start looking
for bubbles or just change all the lines, they probably need changing
anyways.





> 4. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement center console? Mine is
> in
> poor shape.
>

good luck finding an original, both bob hoffman and terry tanner make full
length replacements.


> Thank you,
> Randy
> #1045
> Yucca Valley, CA
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From isensee at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 17:00:14 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:00:14 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Need new done light
Message-ID: <8CC950E4941E56B-8E14-176BF@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>

 I was trying to replace the bulb in my dome light and the plastic housing
cracked. Can anyone tell me what other vehicles the dome light assembly
interchanges with? If possible, I would like to get a replacement that looks
original, but has an LED light. That way I can leave the door open at cars
shows without the light drawing enough current to run down the battery.

I already replaced the under dash lights with LED bulbs. I found an LED
version of an 1156 tail light bulb at Pep Boys that worked for those. That's
different that the 97 bulb that was in there previously, but the base is the
same and it seems to work fine.

Scott

From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 18 18:56:54 2010
From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:56:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
Message-ID: <586088.93162.qm@web57407.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Howdy again,
 
Big thanks to John Blair, Scott, Rick and everyone that have given great
advice. We were finally able to get the brake drums off. They were rust fused
to the shoes. Now that that's done I have a question about a reference:
If I go to the auto parts store, what do I ask for when getting drums, shoes,
spring pin assembly, etc.? I know its a Dana 20 rear end but should I ask for
a 1975 ____ brake etc?
 
Can anyone recommend how I can get a visual reference on a 351 Windsor? I
believe that my kick-down cable has been cut for some reason and I need to
know/see how to go about reconnecting
 
Also, I believe that its either a regulator or pressure relief valve that's in
the box behind the drivers seat that's leaking. Where can I get a replacement
for that? I believe that someone has said Terry Tanner or Bob Hoffman have
that equipment but I don't have good contact information for them.
 
Thank you...I'm sure there'll be more to follow.
 
Randy
#1045
Yucca Valley, CA
 

From Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net  Fri Mar 19 02:24:14 2010
From: Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net (Michael V. Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 05:24:14 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
In-Reply-To: <586088.93162.qm@web57407.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <586088.93162.qm@web57407.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <014401cac745$f1419b80$d3c4d280$@net>

Bricklin Vendor Links:

http://www.bricklin.org/forum/links.asp?action=showsubcat&id=1

(Apologies if you get this a second time...)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Houston
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:57 PM
> To: Bricklin Auto Repair Questions
> Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
> 
> Howdy again,
> 
> Big thanks to John Blair, Scott, Rick and everyone that have given
> great
> advice. We were finally able to get the brake drums off. They were rust
> fused
> to the shoes. Now that that's done I have a question about a reference:
> If I go to the auto parts store, what do I ask for when getting drums,
> shoes,
> spring pin assembly, etc.? I know its a Dana 20 rear end but should I
> ask for
> a 1975 ____ brake etc?
> 
> Can anyone recommend how I can get a visual reference on a 351 Windsor?
> I
> believe that my kick-down cable has been cut for some reason and I need
> to
> know/see how to go about reconnecting
> 
> Also, I believe that its either a regulator or pressure relief valve
> that's in
> the box behind the drivers seat that's leaking. Where can I get a
> replacement
> for that? I believe that someone has said Terry Tanner or Bob Hoffman
> have
> that equipment but I don't have good contact information for them.
> 
> Thank you...I'm sure there'll be more to follow.
> 
> Randy
> #1045

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Fri Mar 19 03:36:33 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:36:33 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
Message-ID: <3A55523CBEAC47FCA399D1935A217B90@work>

If it is just the regulator (in the center of the board) You can get a
replacement locally at any place that sells pneumatics, even someplace like
harbor freight tools. just drain the air from the system, remove and take it
with you to match up. when replacing it make sure you install it in the right
direction, The IN goes to the hose from the air tank and the out goes to the
solenoids for the doors. If it is one of the solenoids leaking , first  make
sure it is installed correctly , there is also an in and out on those, the in
goes to the pressure side, that means in to the regulator on the UP solenoids
and to the cylinder on the down ones.


On 3/18/2010 9:56:54 PM, Randy Houston (randyhouston106 at yahoo.com) wrote:
> Howdy again,
>
> Big thanks to John Blair, Scott, Rick and everyone that have given great
> advice. We were finally able to get the brake drums off. They were rust
> fused
> to the shoes. Now that
> that's done I have a question about a reference:
> If I go to the auto parts store, what do I ask for when getting drums,
shoes,
> spring pin assembly, etc.? I know its a Dana 20 rear end but should I ask
for
> a 1975 ____ brake etc?
>
> Can anyone recommend how I can get a visual reference on a 351 Windsor? I
> believe that my kick-down cable has been cut for some reason and I need to
> know/see how to go about reconnecting
>
> Also, I believe that its either a regulator or pressure relief valve that's
> in
> the box behind the drivers seat
> that's leaking. Where can I get a replacement
> for that? I believe that someone has said Terry Tanner or Bob Hoffman have
> that equipment but I don't
> have good contact information for them.
>
> Thank you...I'm sure there'll be more to follow.
>
> Randy
> #1045
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested a

From treefrogno9 at webtv.net  Fri Mar 19 03:49:13 2010
From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:49:13 GMT
Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
Message-ID: <BAY117-DS2EF644837A1677E55A998FB2A0@phx.gbl>

Ricks and Corvette Resto are the only ones working. The others are dead links. Why?


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael V. Mitchell
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 5:24 AM
To: Bricklin Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator

Bricklin Vendor Links:

http://www.bricklin.org/forum/links.asp?action=showsubcat&id=1

(Apologies if you get this a second time...)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Houston
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:57 PM
> To: Bricklin Auto Repair Questions
> Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
> 
> Howdy again,
> 
> Big thanks to John Blair, Scott, Rick and everyone that have given
> great
> advice. We were finally able to get the brake drums off. They were rust
> fused
> to the shoes. Now that that's done I have a question about a reference:
> If I go to the auto parts store, what do I ask for when getting drums,
> shoes,
> spring pin assembly, etc.? I know its a Dana 20 rear end but should I
> ask for
> a 1975 ____ brake etc?
> 
> Can anyone recommend how I can get a visual reference on a 351 Windsor?
> I
> believe that my kick-down cable has been cut for some reason and I need
> to
> know/see how to go about reconnecting
> 
> Also, I believe that its either a regulator or pressure relief valve
> that's in
> the box behind the drivers seat that's leaking. Where can I get a
> replacement
> for that? I believe that someone has said Terry Tanner or Bob Hoffman
> have
> that equipment but I don't have good contact information for them.
> 
> Thank you...I'm sure there'll be more to follow.
> 
> Randy
> #1045
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net

From isensee at aol.com  Fri Mar 19 05:08:28 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 08:08:28 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Need new dome light
In-Reply-To: <8CC950E4941E56B-8E14-176BF@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC950E4941E56B-8E14-176BF@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC957404F572AB-8E14-1CA25@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com>

I was trying to replace the bulb in my dome light and the plastic housing
cracked. Can anyone tell me what other vehicles the dome light assembly
interchanges with? If possible, I would like to get a replacement that looks
original, but has an LED light. That way I can leave the door open at cars
shows without the light drawing enough current to run down the battery.


I already replaced the under dash lights with LED bulbs. I found an LED
version of an 1156 tail light bulb at Pep Boys that worked for those. That's
different that the 97 bulb that was in there previously, but the base is the
same and it seems to work fine.

Scott

From bricklin1155 at verizon.net  Fri Mar 19 05:45:37 2010
From: bricklin1155 at verizon.net (Michael V. Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:45:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
Message-ID: <24719644.580746.1269002737854.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>


From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Mar 19 18:22:26 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:22:26 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] More brake questions/Kickdown/regulator
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DS2EF644837A1677E55A998FB2A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DS2EF644837A1677E55A998FB2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100319212112.0440e6b8@cox.net>

At 06:49 AM 3/19/2010, you wrote:

 >Ricks and Corvette Resto are the only ones working. The others are 
dead links.
 >Why?

I know Terry is trying to get a new web site up.  Bob's came up for me.
The addresses and phone #s are correct.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From serge.ber at sympatico.ca  Sat Mar 20 17:20:46 2010
From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:20:46 +0000
Subject: [Bricklin] tdc on 360
Message-ID: <BAY121-W44D04B9D01653FC6B168118C280@phx.gbl>

question on 360 amc ...some work was done in past on this 360 ..got her going
she running bit ruff ..tried to do timming on her but 5 btdc his where i
should be but its like 5 inshes from there i was wondering when you turn crank
to top center on marker is there two revolutions on this 360 to get tdc like
351? thanks serge

From isensee at aol.com  Sat Mar 20 17:30:19 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 20:30:19 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] tdc on 360
In-Reply-To: <BAY121-W44D04B9D01653FC6B168118C280@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY121-W44D04B9D01653FC6B168118C280@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC96A4D1E7B559-1324-CF21@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com>

 Yes, TDC occurs every two revolutions of the crankshaft on all four stroke
engines.




 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: serge berube <serge.ber at sympatico.ca>
To: bricklin at autox.team.net <bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Mar 20, 2010 7:20 pm
Subject: [Bricklin] tdc on 360


question on 360 amc ...some work was done in past on this 360 ..got her going
she running bit ruff ..tried to do timming on her but 5 btdc his where i
should be but its like 5 inshes from there i was wondering when you turn
crank
to top center on marker is there two revolutions on this 360 to get tdc like
351? thanks serge
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 21 19:47:53 2010
From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:47:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] (no subject)
Message-ID: <254139.80656.qm@web57416.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Howdy,
 
We have the door skins off and even though the solenoids are working I would
like to go ahead and replace them. I was wondering if there was another
electric solenoid compatible with the current system. Any other suggestions
while the doors are apart?
 
Thank you,
Randy

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Mon Mar 22 02:45:29 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 05:45:29 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] (no subject)
Message-ID: <DA133AEEE5774D078DDD1D185C98B858@work>

a mid 80's and maybe later GM power door lock works well, it is rack and
pinion style instead of a magnet, it is stronger and takes less power to
actuate. They do need a bracket and rod fabbed up but are not very hard to
retro fit with the skins off

On 3/21/2010 10:47:53 PM, Randy Houston (randyhouston106 at yahoo.com) wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> We have the door skins off and even though the solenoids are working I
> would
> like to go ahead and replace them. I was wondering if there was another
> electric solenoid compatible with the current system. Any other
> suggestions
> while the doors are apart?
>
> Thank you,
> Randy

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Mar 23 13:32:24 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:32:24 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose
Message-ID: <22B70A4C952A4ED4829ECD488AB67CD6@greg>

I continue to have a few rolling rocker studs loosen after driving a little.
I was told by my local auto parts to use cylinder sleeve retainer, but that is
not working to well.  Can anyone recommend something to prevent this from
happening?

Greg 0036

From isensee at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 13:57:29 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:57:29 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose
In-Reply-To: <22B70A4C952A4ED4829ECD488AB67CD6@greg>
References: <22B70A4C952A4ED4829ECD488AB67CD6@greg>
Message-ID: <8CC98E295E58D83-78C-EAC6@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>

 Here is a posting that suggests using JB Weld or knurling the stud.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080622131025AAyoBrr




 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 3:32 pm
Subject: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose


I continue to have a few rolling rocker studs loosen after driving a little.
I was told by my local auto parts to use cylinder sleeve retainer, but that
is
not working to well.  Can anyone recommend something to prevent this from
happening?

Greg 0036
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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=

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Mar 23 14:21:44 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:21:44 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose
References: <22B70A4C952A4ED4829ECD488AB67CD6@greg>
	<8CC98E295E58D83-78C-EAC6@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <09C4C05CA43C415A917669B34B9B7B6A@greg>

Scott,

Thanks, but for the AMC they are screw in studs instead of pressed in.  For
the 75 Ford Motor this may work.

I have some permenant loctite(Red), but it indicates heat need to remove.  I
am not sure if the heat threshold from the engine would allow the stud to
remain.

Greg 0036

From isensee at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 14:43:18 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 17:43:18 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose
In-Reply-To: <09C4C05CA43C415A917669B34B9B7B6A@greg>
References: <22B70A4C952A4ED4829ECD488AB67CD6@greg>
	<8CC98E295E58D83-78C-EAC6@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>
	<09C4C05CA43C415A917669B34B9B7B6A@greg>
Message-ID: <8CC98E8FC58FAC1-78C-F38D@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>

 JB Weld is good up to around 600 degrees. You could put a thin coating of it
on the threads. I am not sure how hot the head gets up around the rocker
studs.


You may need to address what is causing them to pull out though. Maybe the
valves or pushrods are slightly too long putting extra pressure on the
rockers? Maybe the valves have receded into the head a bit? Something causing
a lot of vibration?



 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net; isensee at aol.com
Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose


Scott,

Thanks, but for the AMC they are screw in studs instead of pressed in.  For
the 75 Ford Motor this may work.

I have some permenant loctite(Red), but it indicates heat need to remove.  I
am not sure if the heat threshold from the engine would allow the stud to
remain.

Greg 0036

From isensee at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 16:09:32 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 19:09:32 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem
Message-ID: <8CC98F5087FE102-132C-485A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>

When I turned the key to start my Bricklin this afternoon, the starter didn't
crank at all and everything electrical quit - the interior lights went out,
the door wouldn't close, and the air compressor quit running. I thought the
battery might be run down so I hooked up one of those jumper boxes, but no
luck. After a couple of minutes, the power came back on. When I turned the key
again though it all shut down again. I went through several cycles of this
until, finally, the starter cranked over, the car started up and I was able to
drive home with no problems.

It acts as if there is a circuit breaker tripping and then resetting after
some period of time, however, as far as I know, there is no breaker
controlling all the power. Any idea what could cause these symptoms?

Scott

From bricklin0095 at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 19:38:20 2010
From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:38:20 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <8CC98F5087FE102-132C-485A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC98F5087FE102-132C-485A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC9912337228E8-1618-EAD9@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com>

There are fusible links at the starter soenoid and maybe the Ampmeter guage
but when they go they don't come back.
It is most likely a?bad battery.. Actually my daily did the same thing a month
ago.. The other possibility is the amp guage is going bad. All power passes
through it.. They usually quit all at once too... I would definetly try a
battery first..




-----Original Message-----
From: isensee at aol.com
To: bricklin at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 7:09 pm
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem




When I turned the key to start my Bricklin this afternoon, the starter didn't
crank at all and everything electrical quit - the interior lights went out,
the door wouldn't close, and the air compressor quit running. I thought the
battery might be run down so I hooked up one of those jumper boxes, but no
luck. After a couple of minutes, the power came back on. When I turned the key
again though it all shut down again. I went through several cycles of this
until, finally, the starter cranked over, the car started up and I was able to
drive home with no problems.

It acts as if there is a circuit breaker tripping and then resetting after
some period of time, however, as far as I know, there is no breaker
controlling all the power. Any idea what could cause these symptoms?

Scott
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Mar 23 19:42:39 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:42:39 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem
References: <8CC98F5087FE102-132C-485A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C533AD9019514D2FA1A617CB75ADFADF@greg>

Scott,

I had a similar problem after backing out of the garage and then nothing.  I 
found it to be a fusible link at the ammeter.  The nut had just loosened. 
Once I cleaned the post and tightened the nut back everything has been fine 
since.  You can check this by removing the screw on the dash and checking 
behind the gauge to see if is is the same issue.  There are a couple of 
other fusible links in the car that could also be the cause.  I believe 
those may be listed on the BI site.

Greg 0036 

From panepintos at verizon.net  Wed Mar 24 03:31:59 2010
From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 06:31:59 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem
References: <8CC98F5087FE102-132C-485A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<C533AD9019514D2FA1A617CB75ADFADF@greg>
Message-ID: <47288ED8097040528798562565573C6C@Fiscal>

Also, in line with Greg's comment - and using the KISS system - check the 
battery terminal connections too... a loose one will wreak havoc with 
on-off-on electrical!

Smoky P

Smoky Panepinto
Perkiomenville, PA

1975 Bricklin, #1302,
Suntan, Original Owner

1963 Lincoln Convertible
Black/Maroon/White

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder at comcast.net>
To: <bricklin at autox.team.net>; <isensee at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem


> Scott,
>
> I had a similar problem after backing out of the garage and then nothing. 
> I found it to be a fusible link at the ammeter.  The nut had just 
> loosened. Once I cleaned the post and tightened the nut back everything 
> has been fine since.  You can check this by removing the screw on the dash 
> and checking behind the gauge to see if is is the same issue.  There are a 
> couple of other fusible links in the car that could also be the cause.  I 
> believe those may be listed on the BI site.
>
> Greg 0036 _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/panepintos at verizon.net

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Wed Mar 24 03:45:04 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 06:45:04 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose
Message-ID: <6644B6908B8A4843A63D87CA2C0621A9@work>

Is the stud itself loosening or is the locknut coming loose? If it is the stud
itself use red loctite but clean the threads in the hole and stud very good
first, they will no come loose again without a torch heating them.
 If it is the nut and they are polylocks (nuts with set screw in the top),
make sure the top of the stud is flat, if it is not flat the polylocks won't
work well. with polylocks make sure you follow the proper procedure for
tightening them, adjust the lash then HOLD THE POLY LOCK IN THAT LOCATION WITH
A BOX END WRENCH. TURN THE INSIDE ALLEN SET SCREWS DOWN UNTIL IT CONTACTS THE
ROCKER STUD. SNUG IT WITH THE PALM OF YOUR HAND. DO NOT TIGHTEN! NOW WITH THE
BOX END WRENCH IN ONE HAND AND THE ALLEN WRENCH, TURN BOTH TOGETHER UNTIL THEY
TIGHTEN, OR APPROXIMATELY 25 FT. LBS. THEY MUST BE TIGHT, BUT YOU DON'T WANT
TO BE AN APE EITHER. USE COMMON SENSE.

On 3/23/2010 4:32:24 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote:
> I continue to have a few rolling rocker studs loosen after driving a
> little.
> I was told by my local auto parts to use cylinder sleeve retainer,
> but that is
> not working to well.  Can anyone recommend something to prevent this from
> happening?
>
> Greg 0036
> _______________________________________________

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Wed Mar 24 06:08:08 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:08:08 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem
Message-ID: <75C00AA05CBB4A18B45D4927178D7ECA@work>

It sounds like a bad connection someplace, check the battery connections, the
chassis ground, the starter solenoid and the amp gauge connection, also rake a
good look at the connectors for corrosion, if they are badly corroded they
will sometimes have a connection for small loads but fail on large loads like
the starter.

From isensee at aol.com  Wed Mar 24 07:01:51 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:01:51 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <75C00AA05CBB4A18B45D4927178D7ECA@work>
References: <75C00AA05CBB4A18B45D4927178D7ECA@work>
Message-ID: <8CC9971B01FD08C-103C-25A7@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>

 Thanks to all of you who provided suggestions. I'll check the battery and all
the major electrical connections.




 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Rick at High Tech Coatings <rick at hightechcoatings.com>
To: bl <bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Mar 24, 2010 8:08 am
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem


It sounds like a bad connection someplace, check the battery connections, the
chassis ground, the starter solenoid and the amp gauge connection, also rake
a
good look at the connectors for corrosion, if they are badly corroded they
will sometimes have a connection for small loads but fail on large loads like
the starter.
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com

From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 24 09:37:15 2010
From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:37:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] Bulb Hunt
Message-ID: <851169.20947.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Howdy,
 
I was wondering if anyone knew where to get replacement bulbs for the dash
turn signal indicator lights. They are extemely small with glass on one side
and silver metal on the other with raised sliders. I've tried some of our
recommended resources and local stores NAPA, Kragen, Pep Boys, AutoZone,
CarQuest, even Home Depot...plus I've tried looking through flashlight
bulbs...but no luck. Has anyone had to replace these & where did you find
them?
 
Thank you!
Randy
#1045
Yucca Valley, CA
 

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Wed Mar 24 13:12:42 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:12:42 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bulb Hunt
Message-ID: <C1FD2D62285E40F1A1A67AB21E8108CE@work>

try a motor cycle place, one that deals in older used bikes will likely have
them
On 3/24/2010 12:37:15 PM, Randy Houston (randyhouston106 at yahoo.com) wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew where to get replacement bulbs for the
> dash
> turn signal indicator lights. They are extemely small with glass on one
> side
> and silver metal on the other with raised sliders.
> I've tried some of our
> recommended resources and local stores NAPA, Kragen, Pep Boys, AutoZone,
> CarQuest, even Home Depot...plus I've
> tried looking through flashlight
> bulbs...but no luck. Has anyone had to replace these & where did you find
> them?
>
> Thank you!
> Randy
> #1045
> Yucca Valley, CA

From loren0701 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 13:40:18 2010
From: loren0701 at gmail.com (Loren Levinsohn)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 15:40:18 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Bulb Hunt
In-Reply-To: <851169.20947.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <851169.20947.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c7a370711003241340u747db56ate9fe3eb26a092232@mail.gmail.com>

Bob Hoffman (Bob's Brickyard) has them and Terry Tanner (Bricklin Parts and
Service) has them.

On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 11:37 AM, Randy Houston
<randyhouston106 at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew where to get replacement bulbs for the dash
> turn signal indicator lights. They are extemely small with glass on one
> side
> and silver metal on the other with raised sliders. I've tried some of our
> recommended resources and local stores NAPA, Kragen, Pep Boys, AutoZone,
> CarQuest, even Home Depot...plus I've tried looking through flashlight
> bulbs...but no luck. Has anyone had to replace these & where did you find
> them?
>
> Thank you!
> Randy
> #1045
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/loren0701 at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Loren Levinsohn
18325 31st. Avenue North
Plymouth, MN  55447
Phone #: 763-475-0775
Cell Phone #: 612-812-5383

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Thu Mar 25 12:50:23 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:50:23 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Finally found my air leak
Message-ID: <B99FC6C22F2D43BBA5254893FECDCBD4@greg>

Seems that after replacing all the vinyl in the compression fitting with
brass, replacing the pump (since it was leaking) and checking fittings over
and over with soapy water for leaks I decided to bypass the old vacuum pump.
Pumped up the system yesterday and check it this afternoon and it still had
130 lbs. of pressure.  My doors work OK down to about 110, but my pump will
come in before this with the pressure switch.

So if you have an air leak problem and still have the vacuum pump it may be
the source of your problem.  Worth the $2 to buy the fittings to check it
out.

Greg

From Isensee at aol.com  Thu Mar 25 13:06:10 2010
From: Isensee at aol.com (Isensee at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 16:06:10 EDT
Subject: [Bricklin] LED Dome Light
Message-ID: <714de.2ac72655.38dd1c32@aol.com>

If anyone else is interested in replacing their dome light with an LED  
version, I found that the Truck-Lite 15205 fits. I found it here:
_http://tinyurl.com/ybt8ykl_ (http://tinyurl.com/ybt8ykl) 
 
It snaps right in. It has several inches of wire for the connectors, but  
you can push that up into the headliner.
 
I replaced the dome and under dash lights in my Bricklin with LED versions  
and now I can leave the doors up all day at a car show with the interior 
lights  on and it doesn't run down the battery.
 
Scott 
(http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/products/srm/oid/121581/erm/product_detail.jsp?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=search&utm_camp
aign=product) 

From breton48 at live.com  Thu Mar 25 14:03:51 2010
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 15:03:51 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] LED Dome Light
In-Reply-To: <714de.2ac72655.38dd1c32@aol.com>
References: <714de.2ac72655.38dd1c32@aol.com>
Message-ID: <bay141-DS161BC1EEC729A61BEFB41BAF240@phx.gbl>

Useful information, thank you! I searched different vendors online, and you
seem to have found the best price.

On my Bricklin, the dome light base is there, but both the bulb and the
cover are missing, so I just ordered one of those LED lights. 

JLC in Colorado

 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
Scott wrote:
If anyone else is interested in replacing their dome light with an LED  
version, I found that the Truck-Lite 15205 fits. I found it here:
_http://tinyurl.com/ybt8ykl_ (http://tinyurl.com/ybt8ykl) 
 
It snaps right in. It has several inches of wire for the connectors, but  
you can push that up into the headliner.
 
I replaced the dome and under dash lights in my Bricklin with LED versions  
and now I can leave the doors up all day at a car show with the interior 
lights  on and it doesn't run down the battery.

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Mar 30 12:07:54 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 15:07:54 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Terry's Web site
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100330150747.044a62c0@cox.net>

Hey gang,

Terry has a new web site up an running.

It's very nice, with parts, and info.

www.bricklinpartsva.com

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From efrain_nadal at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 30 13:08:31 2010
From: efrain_nadal at yahoo.com (Efrain Nadal)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 13:08:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] Terry's Web site
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100330150747.044a62c0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <182639.66826.qm@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Great!

--- El mar, 3/30/10, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> escribis:


De: John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net>
Asunto: [Bricklin] Terry's Web site
A: Bricklin at autox.team.net
Fecha: martes, 30 de marzo de 2010, 02:07 pm


Hey gang,

Terry has a new web site up an running.

It's very nice, with parts, and info.

www.bricklinpartsva.com

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/efrain_nadal at yahoo.com




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