From Hugybyr at aol.com Tue Jun 1 11:45:42 2010 From: Hugybyr at aol.com (Hugybyr at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 13:45:42 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] Door latch hangs up Message-ID: Both doors on my 76 will not release. The solenoids make unlocking sounds and the air system works ok. When I am in the car and I pull the inside door handle and give the door a good push it will unlatch and open. I have the left door panel off and sprayed around with WD 40 to lube everything but still no luck. I also moved the bottom plate around trying different positions but that didn't work. Any thoughts? From isensee at aol.com Tue Jun 1 11:59:24 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 13:59:24 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Headlight diagnosis In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100521075318.04532318@cox.net> References: <8CCC6A1001DD8DD-D78-41BB@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.5.6.1.20100521075318.04532318@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CCCFCB4DA23DAA-2298-2208@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> Thanks to all who helped. It turned out just to be a hose that had popped off. The original system is still working after 35 years and no parts have ever needed to be replaced so I think I will stick with it. Scott -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair To: isensee at aol.com Cc: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 21, 2010 6:57 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Headlight diagnosis At 10:03 PM 5/20/2010, isensee at aol.com wrote: >My headlights are no longer coming up. Can anybody tell me where to find an >article on troubleshooting it? Either a URL or a pointer to which issue of the >Brickline to look in would be great. Thanks. Scott, Here's a link. It's got a pretty good trouble shooting procedure: http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm Basically the lights are raised by the actuactors. The actuactors get the vac. from the relay. So I'd check to see of you get a change in vac. at the control port (top) of the relay. If not, then there's a start. If you do, check the output of the relay? If you have vac. there, then I'd suspect a bad seal or broken diaphram in the actuactor. Might be time to convert to Terry's air headlights. :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From Hugybyr at aol.com Tue Jun 1 16:50:30 2010 From: Hugybyr at aol.com (Hugybyr at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 18:50:30 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] Door latches hang up Message-ID: Both doors on my 76 will not release. The solenoids make unlocking sounds and the air system works ok. When I am in the car and I pull the inside door handle and give the door a good push it will unlatch and open. I have the left door panel off and sprayed around with WD 40 to lube everything but still no luck. I also moved the bottom plate around trying different positions but that didn't work. Any thoughts? From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Jun 1 16:56:54 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 17:56:54 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Door latch hangs up References: Message-ID: <2AB31523A32E4261BA6410741EB5C2A0@greg> It could be the solenoid is pulling partially. You can also close the latch with the door up with a screwdriver. Then see if the solenoid releases it. If not, you can release it with the safety latch handle. Then remove the door panel you can see the solenoid and if it actually pulls fully and releases the latch. I had a similar problem and removed the solenoid and squirted WD-40 on the shaft and worked it back an forth. Reinstalled the solenoid and it has been working fine for several years. Greg 0036 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Wed Jun 2 04:33:28 2010 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 06:33:28 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Door latches hang up Message-ID: The factory solenoids draw a fair a mount of power and are just barely strong enough, If your battery is not fully charged and "up to snuff" they will not unlatch.If they worked before they are either dirty and dragging (from sitting) or the battery is down on power or there is a wiring/ ground issue. On 6/1/2010 6:50:30 PM, hugybyr at aol.com wrote: > Both doors on my 76 will not release. The solenoids make unlocking > sounds > and the air system works ok. When I am in the car and I pull the > inside > door handle and give the door a good push it will unlatch and open. I > have > the left door panel off and sprayed around with WD 40 to lube everything > > but > still no luck. I also moved the bottom plate around trying different > positions but that didn't work. Any thoughts? From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Sat Jun 5 07:25:39 2010 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:25:39 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] part number needed Message-ID: 1975 need upper and lower control arm bushings any part number out there lol...rear wheel cylinders and drums?and front rotor ..tks serge From isensee at aol.com Sat Jun 5 09:27:13 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 11:27:13 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor Message-ID: <8CCD2DAB4CB8381-2E8-D967@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Can anyone give me a part number for the AC compressor on a '75? Mine needs to be replaced. I had a local parts store pull some York compressors that fit various 1975 Fords, but none had the right clutch/pulley. Scott From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Jun 5 10:54:48 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 12:54:48 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] part number needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100605123045.046bba48@cox.net> At 09:25 AM 6/5/2010, serge berube wrote: >1975 need upper and lower control arm bushings any part number out there >lol...rear wheel cylinders and drums?and front rotor .. Serge, The suspension and brakes are for an 70-74 AMX, 77-79 AMX, 78-79 Concord, 70-78 Gremlin, 70-78 Javelin, 80 Spirit. The front rotors are getting hard to find here in the US and expensive. Lower Control Arm AMC 332-0134 or 3222626 - TRW 12245 or McQuay Norris FB263 Upper Control Arm AMC 322-0134 (Right) AMC 322-0135 (Left) TRW 12313A or McQuay Norris FB391 Don't really know why there is a right and left from AMC. I don't think the aftermarket makes a difference. Wheel Cylinders (7/8") TT - W17507 (Left) - Coniseal 33627 - Bendix 33627 TT - W17508 (Right) - Coniseal 33628 EIS - EW9021 EIS - EW9022 I don't have any info on the brake drums other than AMC. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From isensee at aol.com Sat Jun 5 12:03:51 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:03:51 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100605130545.046bb298@cox.net> References: <8CCD2DAB4CB8381-2E8-D967@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.5.6.1.20100605130545.046bb298@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Thanks, John. Here is a picture: http://gallery.me.com/scottisensee#100036/IMG_6983 The bare metal pulley is the original Bricklin AC clutch. It has a single pulley and a larger diameter section that I imagine serves as a balancing weight. Next to it, I am holding an AC clutch that I picked up from a parts store to see if it would work. That's black and has two pulleys. It is narrower than the Bricklin clutch so neither pulley aligns with the belt. I can get just a compressor and move the old clutch to it, but the bearings are sounding a little rough so I would prefer to replace the clutch too. I can try to match it by picture, as you suggest, although most of the parts stores around me are staffed by high school kids who only know how to look parts up by make and model using the computer. I am hoping someone has the part number for a compressor with clutch installed that would be a direct replacement. I'll let you know once I have it worked out so you can put part numbers in the parts list on the website. Scott -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair To: isensee at aol.com Sent: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 12:08 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor At 11:27 AM 6/5/2010, you wrote: >Can anyone give me a part number for the AC compressor on a '75? Mine needs >to be replaced. I had a local parts store pull some York compressors that fit >various 1975 Fords, but none had the right clutch/pulley. Scott, Sorry I can't be much help. I tried to do some searching online for York ac compressors. But didn't see anything like what we need. Can you find a picture of just the clutch in the auto parts stores paper catalogues? If so, you may have to get the compressor and then a clutch. Can you order just the compressor without the clutch? What's different about the clutches? You might also want to check to see if you have any industrial AC supply houses in your area. They may be able to get you what you need. Just check the prices first. Keep us posted. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From isensee at aol.com Sat Jun 5 13:18:02 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:18:02 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor In-Reply-To: <8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCD2DAB4CB8381-2E8-D967@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com><6.2.5.6.1.20100605130545.046bb298@cox.net> <8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CCD2FAF377EE57-2E8-F0E1@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> After a little searching on the web, it appears to me that the AC clutch is Four Seasons 48812 and the compressor is Four Seasons 58064. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=870029 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=815749 Those fit a 1975 Ford Granada with 351 and the pictures look right. I'll place an order early next week so, if anyone has information about whether or not those are the correct parts, please let me know. Scott -----Original Message----- From: isensee at aol.com To: jblair1948 at cox.net Cc: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 1:03 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor Thanks, John. Here is a picture: http://gallery.me.com/scottisensee#100036/IMG_6983 The bare metal pulley is the original Bricklin AC clutch. It has a single pulley and a larger diameter section that I imagine serves as a balancing weight. Next to it, I am holding an AC clutch that I picked up from a parts store to see if it would work. That's black and has two pulleys. It is narrower than the Bricklin clutch so neither pulley aligns with the belt. I can get just a compressor and move the old clutch to it, but the bearings are sounding a little rough so I would prefer to replace the clutch too. I can try to match it by picture, as you suggest, although most of the parts stores around me are staffed by high school kids who only know how to look parts up by make and model using the computer. I am hoping someone has the part number for a compressor with clutch installed that would be a direct replacement. I'll let you know once I have it worked out so you can put part numbers in the parts list on the website. Scott -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair To: isensee at aol.com Sent: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 12:08 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor At 11:27 AM 6/5/2010, you wrote: >Can anyone give me a part number for the AC compressor on a '75? Mine needs >to be replaced. I had a local parts store pull some York compressors that fit >various 1975 Fords, but none had the right clutch/pulley. Scott, Sorry I can't be much help. I tried to do some searching online for York ac compressors. But didn't see anything like what we need. Can you find a picture of just the clutch in the auto parts stores paper catalogues? If so, you may have to get the compressor and then a clutch. Can you order just the compressor without the clutch? What's different about the clutches? You might also want to check to see if you have any industrial AC supply houses in your area. They may be able to get you what you need. Just check the prices first. Keep us posted. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From krodgers at nautel.com Sun Jun 6 07:56:54 2010 From: krodgers at nautel.com (Kevin Rodgers) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 09:56:54 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor In-Reply-To: <8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCD2DAB4CB8381-2E8-D967@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com><6.2.5.6.1.20100605130545.046bb298@cox.net> <8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <73C9DD5521F9A24A8448B3D5E2725DE1080FA413@mse12be2.mse12.exchange.ms> Scott The compressor part # is York T210L. I have not actually purchased the compressor w/ clutch but my previous research lead me to part # TEM258114. This is a York compressor with Tube-O Fittings, L.H. Suction. The actually type of fitting on the compressor is still a bit of a mystery to me because I can't seem to get confirmation if it is supposed to be Tube-O or Roto-lock. They both look similar to me and maybe both were used at various times during the cars production. That wouldn't surprise anybody, would it? Anyway, perhaps this is a point of reference for you. http://catalog2.genpt.com/catviewer15/(0ucv1nfi5v5jcu23ulwsrnmk)/Catalog /Detail.aspx?ShowPics=1&R=TEM258114_0120172530 Regards Kevin -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of isensee at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 3:04 PM To: jblair1948 at cox.net Cc: bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor Thanks, John. Here is a picture: http://gallery.me.com/scottisensee#100036/IMG_6983 The bare metal pulley is the original Bricklin AC clutch. It has a single pulley and a larger diameter section that I imagine serves as a balancing weight. Next to it, I am holding an AC clutch that I picked up from a parts store to see if it would work. That's black and has two pulleys. It is narrower than the Bricklin clutch so neither pulley aligns with the belt. I can get just a compressor and move the old clutch to it, but the bearings are sounding a little rough so I would prefer to replace the clutch too. I can try to match it by picture, as you suggest, although most of the parts stores around me are staffed by high school kids who only know how to look parts up by make and model using the computer. I am hoping someone has the part number for a compressor with clutch installed that would be a direct replacement. I'll let you know once I have it worked out so you can put part numbers in the parts list on the website. Scott -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair To: isensee at aol.com Sent: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 12:08 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor At 11:27 AM 6/5/2010, you wrote: >Can anyone give me a part number for the AC compressor on a '75? Mine needs >to be replaced. I had a local parts store pull some York compressors that fit >various 1975 Fords, but none had the right clutch/pulley. Scott, Sorry I can't be much help. I tried to do some searching online for York ac compressors. But didn't see anything like what we need. Can you find a picture of just the clutch in the auto parts stores paper catalogues? If so, you may have to get the compressor and then a clutch. Can you order just the compressor without the clutch? What's different about the clutches? You might also want to check to see if you have any industrial AC supply houses in your area. They may be able to get you what you need. Just check the prices first. Keep us posted. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From isensee at aol.com Sun Jun 6 10:59:38 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 12:59:38 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin Message-ID: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> I ran across an ad for a Bricklin diecast model in Autoweek. Here is a webpage for it: http://diecasm.com/ambrisv1.html Scott From panepintos at verizon.net Sun Jun 6 11:07:02 2010 From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 13:07:02 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] St. John NB Canada Message-ID: Hello everyone, I am working on a trip to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia later this year... would like to visit the site of the Bricklin plant if possible. Does anyone know the address where it was? I am assuming it was in or near St. John. I realize there isn't likely to be a commemorative plaque there, but allasame, it could be worthwhile. Thanks, Smoky P Smoky Panepinto Perkiomenville, PA 1975 Bricklin, #1302, Suntan, Original Owner 1963 Lincoln Convertible Black/Maroon/White From sjzukrow at msn.com Sun Jun 6 12:14:18 2010 From: sjzukrow at msn.com (Stuart Zukrow) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 14:14:18 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] St. John NB Canada In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Marc: I looked through my collection of Bricklin items and could not find a street address. I was able find a document that says the Saint John plant was in the Grandview Industrial Park. I don't know if that's specific enough to narrow it down to a single building but that's all I could find. Good luck. Take a picture for the Brickline. Stuart ----- Original Message ----- From: Smoky & Connie Panepinto To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 1:07 PM Subject: [Bricklin] St. John NB Canada Hello everyone, I am working on a trip to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia later this year... would like to visit the site of the Bricklin plant if possible. Does anyone know the address where it was? I am assuming it was in or near St. John. I realize there isn't likely to be a commemorative plaque there, but allasame, it could be worthwhile. Thanks, Smoky P Smoky Panepinto Perkiomenville, PA 1975 Bricklin, #1302, Suntan, Original Owner 1963 Lincoln Convertible Black/Maroon/White _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/sjzukrow at msn.com From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Jun 6 12:36:39 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 13:36:39 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin References: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> This is the model that Diecasm has been working with Bricklin International members to produce and to try to get as accurate as possible. There are several versions at various pricing. They have asked for comments and opinions from members during the development of each version. They will have some at the meet this year. I believe some that have pre-purchased will get their models at the meet. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Jun 6 15:14:44 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:14:44 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Message-ID: <4BDCDA27E52C49F9B0439C8B91B5DB1F@greg> Just an update. I have replaced the bent valve and now everythig is running well. At least engine wise. It seemed my alternator was not keeping my battery at full charge. I checked it with a volt meter while running and I was seeing 11.95-12.00 on the voltage. I was expecting a higher number like 14 volts. I replaced the alternator and after installing I am getting a similar reading but a little less 11.85. Is this the correct way to check the alternator and is the voltage correct or do I need to replace this one also? My other issue was after driving around I opened my door and I could hear the air pump running. Normally when it gets below the pressure switch range it runs for a short time and cuts off. This time it would not stop. I pulled the fuse to the pump to get it to stop. I checked my tank pressue and it was at 190 lbs. I reduce the pressure down to 90 and resinserted the fuse and it ran up to 150. It almost seems like the relay was stuck in the closed position or possibly the pressure switch. I had installed a Viar 425c to replace the small pump. The nice thing about the small pump it would run to about 115lbs and stop. With this new pump it has so much power I am not sure when it would stop. It also has a lot of power draw so I do not recommend this model. I would go maybe with a 200 series or possibly less. Has anyone had this issue? I plan to swap the relay and I may replace the pressure switch with a air pressure gauge and just work the pump with my auxillary switch so I can control when the pump comes on. I have had this system installed for a while and I just left it where it would come on as needed. Now I am concerned with the pump not stopping. Greg 0036 From isensee at aol.com Sun Jun 6 16:32:48 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 18:32:48 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin In-Reply-To: <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> References: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> Message-ID: <8CCD3DF537795C8-2114-1D132@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> That's great. I won't be able to attend the meet, but I would like to order one of the models. Any suggestions where to get a good price on one? In a web search, I found them at diecasm.com for $94.95. http://diecasm.com/ambrisv1rd.html Scott -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder To: bricklin at autox.team.net; isensee at aol.com Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 1:36 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin This is the model that Diecasm has been working with Bricklin International members to produce and to try to get as accurate as possible. There are several versions at various pricing. They have asked for comments and opinions from members during the development of each version. They will have some at the meet this year. I believe some that have pre-purchased will get their models at the meet. Greg 0036 From isensee at aol.com Sun Jun 6 16:46:11 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 18:46:11 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system In-Reply-To: <4BDCDA27E52C49F9B0439C8B91B5DB1F@greg> References: <4BDCDA27E52C49F9B0439C8B91B5DB1F@greg> Message-ID: <8CCD3E1323752A6-2114-1D29E@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> Yes, you can test with a multimeter and should get around 14 volts at the battery with the engine running. Here is a video that demonstrates that: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzz7P3qNHcE What voltage are you getting at the battery with the engine off? A good battery should put out around 12.5 volts. It sounds like you may have a problem with the battery, the voltage regulator, or maybe a wiring problem such as a bad ground. It is possible your replacement alternator is bad too, but that seems less likely. Most parts stores will test it for you free. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 4:14 pm Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Just an update. I have replaced the bent valve and now everythig is running well. At least engine wise. It seemed my alternator was not keeping my battery at full charge. I checked it with a volt meter while running and I was seeing 11.95-12.00 on the voltage. I was expecting a higher number like 14 volts. I replaced the alternator and after installing I am getting a similar reading but a little less 11.85. Is this the correct way to check the alternator and is the voltage correct or do I need to replace this one also? My other issue was after driving around I opened my door and I could hear the air pump running. Normally when it gets below the pressure switch range it runs for a short time and cuts off. This time it would not stop. I pulled the fuse to the pump to get it to stop. I checked my tank pressue and it was at 190 lbs. I reduce the pressure down to 90 and resinserted the fuse and it ran up to 150. It almost seems like the relay was stuck in the closed position or possibly the pressure switch. I had installed a Viar 425c to replace the small pump. The nice thing about the small pump it would run to about 115lbs and stop. With this new pump it has so much power I am not sure when it would stop. It also has a lot of power draw so I do not recommend this model. I would go maybe with a 200 series or possibly less. Has anyone had this issue? I plan to swap the relay and I may replace the pressure switch with a air pressure gauge and just work the pump with my auxillary switch so I can control when the pump comes on. I have had this system installed for a while and I just left it where it would come on as needed. Now I am concerned with the pump not stopping. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Jun 6 17:14:07 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 18:14:07 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin References: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> <8CCD3DF537795C8-2114-1D132@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <08EE7C1195B9479782652F050B7AE956@greg> Scott, Diecasm/Automodello are the same people and they are the only point of distribution. I believe the 94.95 is the cheapest of the series. There is a founder edition autographed by Herb Grasse and there is an exploded edition. I am not sure of those prices, but there are more. There is a lot of informatoin on the model on the BI site. You can see the progression of the model development. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Jun 6 17:19:55 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 18:19:55 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system References: <4BDCDA27E52C49F9B0439C8B91B5DB1F@greg> <8CCD3E1323752A6-2114-1D29E@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <2FF5BDD945BC414C8DCF9866697A780E@greg> Scott/All, I keep an LED meter connected at the battery and laying on my console so I can monitor the battery at all times. I have had battery and alternator issues in the past, so I do not want to take a chance. I have 12.5 on the LED while the car is sitting. I have been using a battery tender to keep the charge when I am not driving it. Getting ready to go and check voltage again. Just finished checking my pressure switch for continuity and it does not appear to be working. I have replaced the switch with a pressure gauge and I guess I will work the pump manually using the gauge. My doors work down to 100 lbs. so I believe if I start at 130, it should be good for several opens and closings. Greg 0036 From alchemy541 at gmail.com Sun Jun 6 18:20:43 2010 From: alchemy541 at gmail.com (Alchemy) Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 17:20:43 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin In-Reply-To: <08EE7C1195B9479782652F050B7AE956@greg> References: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> <8CCD3DF537795C8-2114-1D132@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> <08EE7C1195B9479782652F050B7AE956@greg> Message-ID: And the pre order you were able to pick a 3 digit vin, if I recall I think that was on the $200 version -- Scott Benson '74 Bricklin SV1 (0445) '01 Aprilia Futura (0037) IBA 19,400 From Hugybyr at aol.com Mon Jun 7 09:52:47 2010 From: Hugybyr at aol.com (Hugybyr at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 11:52:47 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] door latches hang up Message-ID: <27f92.37b1ecb8.393e6fcf@aol.com> When I push the button on the outside of the drivers door the door starts to open but then hangs up. I have to pull it past whatever is stopping it to get it to open the rest of the way. From panepintos at verizon.net Mon Jun 7 13:33:30 2010 From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto) Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 15:33:30 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] St. John NB Canada References:

Message-ID: Stuart, Thanks! At least that gives me a place to start. I imagine Herb G. or Terry T. might know, too. Maybe one of them will reply to my earlier message. Smoky P Smoky Panepinto Perkiomenville, PA 1975 Bricklin, #1302, Suntan, Original Owner 1963 Lincoln Convertible Black/Maroon/White ----- Original Message ----- From: Stuart Zukrow To: Bricklin at autox.team.net ; Smoky & Connie Panepinto Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 2:14 PM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] St. John NB Canada Marc: I looked through my collection of Bricklin items and could not find a street address. I was able find a document that says the Saint John plant was in the Grandview Industrial Park. I don't know if that's specific enough to narrow it down to a single building but that's all I could find. Good luck. Take a picture for the Brickline. Stuart ----- Original Message ----- From: Smoky & Connie Panepinto To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 1:07 PM Subject: [Bricklin] St. John NB Canada Hello everyone, I am working on a trip to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia later this year... would like to visit the site of the Bricklin plant if possible. Does anyone know the address where it was? I am assuming it was in or near St. John. I realize there isn't likely to be a commemorative plaque there, but allasame, it could be worthwhile. Thanks, Smoky P Smoky Panepinto Perkiomenville, PA 1975 Bricklin, #1302, Suntan, Original Owner 1963 Lincoln Convertible Black/Maroon/White _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/sjzukrow at msn.com From paul-amo at comcast.net Mon Jun 7 13:36:49 2010 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 15:36:49 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin In-Reply-To: References: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> <8CCD3DF537795C8-2114-1D132@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> <08EE7C1195B9479782652F050B7AE956@greg> Message-ID: <4C0D4A51.2020403@comcast.net> It doesn't appear that the doors open, however. Amo #1207 Alchemy wrote: > And the pre order you were able to pick a 3 digit vin, if I recall I think > that was on the $200 version From panepintos at verizon.net Mon Jun 7 14:35:39 2010 From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto) Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 16:35:39 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] New Brunswick info Message-ID: <1462FC351A3048AC8444380898CDDD6C@Fiscal> Hi Maybe I am the only car owner who didn't know about this site, but it is quite fascinating to a B owner... Could even be a worthwhile link from our club website. http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/~Heritage/bricklin/index.htm Smoky P From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Jun 7 14:31:33 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:31:33 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Message-ID: <74A28F6E80F04951B9B0B5C082D78F76@greg> Just got back from having the alternator tested. It failed. They have ordered another and I should get it tomorrow. They are suppose to test it for me and give me a readout of the voltage. Hopefully I can compare it to after I have it installed and tested. Hard to believe a brand new one would fail, but I guess the lesson is to always have it tested so you do not waste the time installing it and trying to figure out what is wrong. Greg 0036 From isensee at aol.com Mon Jun 7 15:35:42 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (Isensee) Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 16:35:42 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system In-Reply-To: <74A28F6E80F04951B9B0B5C082D78F76@greg> References: <74A28F6E80F04951B9B0B5C082D78F76@greg> Message-ID: <6063397A-C6FC-41B3-A6C6-28383610F9CC@aol.com> I had a bad replacement alternator once too. If you got a rebuilt, I understand some of the shops don't test them. Scott Sent from my iPhone On Jun 7, 2010, at 3:31 PM, "Greg Schroeder" wrote: > Just got back from having the alternator tested. It failed. They > have > ordered another and I should get it tomorrow. They are suppose to > test it for > me and give me a readout of the voltage. Hopefully I can compare it > to after > I have it installed and tested. Hard to believe a brand new one > would fail, > but I guess the lesson is to always have it tested so you do not > waste the > time installing it and trying to figure out what is wrong. > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From gschroeder at comcast.net Thu Jun 10 19:13:18 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:13:18 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Message-ID: <4B985ADA00B84A87AF4D02A30D50D1CB@greg> New alternator passed at the parts store and seems to be working in the car, but I am seeing around 12 volts and I was expecting higher. It does seem to keep the battery LED at green and does not go to yellow and then red like the previous alternator that failed. One issue I am seeing is when starting the car there is a large drain on the battery voltage. Sometimes after one or two failed starts it seems to almost drain the battery. I have installed a mini starter a while back and I was wondering if the mini starter has a larger power draw than the standard. I have search the internet and it seems to always point to the mini as having more torque and less weight, but I cannot find any information to compare the power draw. I was able to drive around and full up with gas. I even let the car sit for a couple of hours and then started it and drove down the interstate. I am going to see about getting the wheels balanced. Not exactly a smooth ride at 70. While I am there I am going to have the charging system checked to see if there are still issues. I am also still fighting heat issues. With an infrared temp gauge, I checked the drivers side floor and it was around 99 and the passenger side was 86. When checking the down pipes I am seeing 200. I am getting a reading of HI on the headers while running and the cold air intake has a temp of 100 which is good. Radiator was at 170 and the hood when closed is at 100. I am using lizard skin on the firewall and underbody and have a 1/2 inch PVC heat/sound shield on the floor. So from the engine temp to the interior floor it is doing pretty good. Just not sure how well the AC will be able to stay ahead. I know air flow is going to make a difference and plan to check the temps while moving, since the above temps were after taking a run down the interstate with the AC on and then checking the temps at idle. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Thu Jun 10 19:22:32 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:22:32 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Message-ID: <15B8CA2DAB4D4295984D2990B49E5E52@greg> Like usual, I keep searching a little longer and find an answer. Seems the mini draws about 250 amps where the full size will be at least double that number. So going back the original will not help on the current draw, plus it would add at least double the weight. Greg 0036 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Fri Jun 11 04:57:37 2010 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:57:37 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 brake rotor vin 1733 Message-ID: anyone close to my vin ....changed there brake rotors ..if so where and part number ... all over net i checked them all out they all dont have ugs in theres .. amc gremlin,matador ,hornets,ambasador ext...thanks eric From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri Jun 11 07:14:09 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 09:14:09 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system In-Reply-To: <4B985ADA00B84A87AF4D02A30D50D1CB@greg> References: <4B985ADA00B84A87AF4D02A30D50D1CB@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100611090529.044f6de8@cox.net> At 09:13 PM 6/10/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >New alternator passed at the parts store and seems to be working in the car, >but I am seeing around 12 volts and I was expecting higher. Greg, What was your engine rpm? If you were idling at about 750, that is about right. Usually, the older cars alt. didn't put out until the rpms were over 1000 rpms. So try increasing the rpm just a little and see if the voltage doesn't go up. >One issue I am seeing is when starting the car there is a large drain on the >battery voltage. Sometimes after one or two failed starts it seems to almost >drain the battery. If you are watching the voltmeter when cranking the engine, yes the voltage will go down a lot (relatively), some place around 10 to 11 volts. This is due to the large current drain of the starter, and the internal resistance in the battery and terminal connections. >I have installed a mini starter a while back and I was wondering if the mini >starter has a larger power draw than the standard. I have search the internet >and it seems to always point to the mini as having more torque and less >weight, but I cannot find any information to compare the power draw..... Usually these due draw less current. But the old style starters used to draw something like 200 to 400 amps. The new reduction starters still something like 75-100 A. Which is quite a lot. If I remember correctly, the original alternator on the B is rated at something like 65 A. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri Jun 11 07:39:19 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 09:39:19 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 brake rotor vin 1733 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100611093613.044f5fd0@cox.net> At 06:57 AM 6/11/2010, serge berube wrote: >anyone close to my vin ....changed there brake rotors ..if so where and part >number ... all over net i checked them all out they all dont have ugs in >theres .. amc gremlin,matador ,hornets,ambasador ext...thanks eric Serge, You need to know if you have the Kelsey-Hayes or the Bendix. I think the switch over was someplace around 1200. So you should have the Bendix calipers and rotors. To tell the difference, look at the bolts that are holding the calipers to the anchor plate. If it is a hex head bolts, then they are Kelsey-Hayes. If they are Allen head bold, then Bendix. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From breton48 at live.com Fri Jun 11 08:48:14 2010 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 07:48:14 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 brake rotor vin 1733 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As nobody has replied yet, I'll have a go, even though my VIN number is not close to yours! First thing is to find out if your car has Kelsey Hayes or Bendix brakes - from a posting a year ago or so (forgot who posted that): "The easiest way to tell which type brakes you have, is to look at the bolts that hold the caliper anchor plates to the steering knuckle. If they are hex head bolts it's Kelsey Hayes. If it is an Allen head bolt, then it's a Bendix set up". I have the Bendix brakes. I had the front brakes overhauled last year, but unfortunately not the rotors, so I don't have parts numbers for them. All parts were immediately available from Centric, including the rotors and the brake power booster. I did not buy the rotors because mine were fine and the price for new rotors was high. I had the work done at "Just Brakes" in Colorado Springs, and I would imagine any good brake specialist should be able to get the parts for you. If you ever need other part numbers, I have them for calipers, hoses, disc hardware, booster, etc. I think the parts cross-reference to many AMC V8 cars of the 1970s. JLC #2121 You wrote: anyone close to my vin ....changed there brake rotors ..if so where and part number ... all over net i checked them all out they all dont have ugs in theres .. amc gremlin,matador ,hornets,ambasador ext...thanks eric From gschroeder at comcast.net Fri Jun 11 09:08:32 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:08:32 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system References: <4B985ADA00B84A87AF4D02A30D50D1CB@greg> <6.2.5.6.1.20100611090529.044f6de8@cox.net> Message-ID: <9C72C8FEA0874BC08C2BB88794979C45@greg> John, I am running about 700-800 RPM's in park right now. It will idle at 600 with the AC, in gear and remain running while at a stop sign. I will have to check when the engine revs up. Based on my LED monitor I believe it does rise some. Greg 0036 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John T. Blair" To: Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 8:14 AM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system > At 09:13 PM 6/10/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: > > >New alternator passed at the parts store and seems to be working in the > >car, > >but I am seeing around 12 volts and I was expecting higher. > > Greg, > > What was your engine rpm? If you were idling at about 750, that is about > right. > Usually, the older cars alt. didn't put out until the rpms were over 1000 > rpms. > So try increasing the rpm just a little and see if the voltage doesn't go > up. > > >One issue I am seeing is when starting the car there is a large drain on > >the > >battery voltage. Sometimes after one or two failed starts it seems > to almost > >drain the battery. > > If you are watching the voltmeter when cranking the engine, yes the > voltage > will go down a lot (relatively), some place around 10 to 11 volts. This > is due > to the large current drain of the starter, and the internal resistance in > the battery > and terminal connections. > > >I have installed a mini starter a while back and I was wondering if the > >mini > >starter has a larger power draw than the standard. I have search > the internet > >and it seems to always point to the mini as having more torque and less > >weight, but I cannot find any information to compare the power draw..... > > Usually these due draw less current. But the old style starters used to > draw > something like 200 to 400 amps. The new reduction starters still > something > like 75-100 A. Which is quite a lot. If I remember correctly, the > original > alternator on the B is rated at something like 65 A. > > John > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gschroeder at comcast.net From rick at hightechcoatings.com Fri Jun 11 09:57:52 2010 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 11:57:52 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Message-ID: <21C18E06E2AC4E02975197B936F64A6B@work> at idle most "early" alternators will not keep up with AC. most do not make enough amps till you get around 1500 rpm. new modern alternators are smaller and have tighter air gaps and put out more amps at lower rpms than the early ones do at full force. On 6/11/2010 11:08:32 AM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > John, > > I am running about 700-800 > RPM's in park right now. It will idle at 600 > with the AC, in gear and remain running while at a stop sign. > > I will have to check when the engine revs up. Based on my LED monitor I > believe it does rise some. > > Greg 0036 From panepintos at verizon.net Fri Jun 11 10:32:45 2010 From: panepintos at verizon.net (Panepinto's) Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 11:32:45 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Bricklin] 75 brake rotor vin 1733 Message-ID: <346283977.854293.1276273965411.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net> /xr8LJu: Permission denied From isensee at aol.com Sat Jun 12 10:45:38 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:45:38 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor In-Reply-To: <73C9DD5521F9A24A8448B3D5E2725DE1080FA413@mse12be2.mse12.exchange.ms> References: <8CCD2DAB4CB8381-2E8-D967@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com><6.2.5.6.1.20100605130545.046bb298@cox.net> <8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <73C9DD5521F9A24A8448B3D5E2725DE1080FA413@mse12be2.mse12.exchange.ms> Message-ID: <8CCD865D29FB77D-19A0-11FA4@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> Thanks, Kevin. I bought a new Four Seasons 58064 AC compressor which is the equivalent of the York T210L. It just arrived today and looks identical. The clutch should be a Four Seasons 48812. I have that ordered and am still waiting for it. I plan to replace the compressor and recharge the system myself. I haven't done this before, but I have a vacuum pump to evacuate the system and a tank of R-12 freon I bought years ago. I understand oil needs to be added to the compressor. Can anyone tell me the type and amount or oil to add? Do I add that before evacuating the system or would the vacuum suck the oil out? If needs to be added after evacuating the system, how is that done without losing vacuum? Scott -----Original Message----- From: Kevin Rodgers To: isensee at aol.com; jblair1948 at cox.net Cc: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 8:56 am Subject: RE: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor Scott The compressor part # is York T210L. I have not actually purchased the compressor w/ clutch but my previous research lead me to part # TEM258114. This is a York compressor with Tube-O Fittings, L.H. Suction. The actually type of fitting on the compressor is still a bit of a mystery to me because I can't seem to get confirmation if it is supposed to be Tube-O or Roto-lock. They both look similar to me and maybe both were used at various times during the cars production. That wouldn't surprise anybody, would it? Anyway, perhaps this is a point of reference for you. http://catalog2.genpt.com/catviewer15/(0ucv1nfi5v5jcu23ulwsrnmk)/Catalog /Detail.aspx?ShowPics=1&R=TEM258114_0120172530 Regards Kevin -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of isensee at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 3:04 PM To: jblair1948 at cox.net Cc: bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor Thanks, John. Here is a picture: http://gallery.me.com/scottisensee#100036/IMG_6983 The bare metal pulley is the original Bricklin AC clutch. It has a single pulley and a larger diameter section that I imagine serves as a balancing weight. Next to it, I am holding an AC clutch that I picked up from a parts store to see if it would work. That's black and has two pulleys. It is narrower than the Bricklin clutch so neither pulley aligns with the belt. I can get just a compressor and move the old clutch to it, but the bearings are sounding a little rough so I would prefer to replace the clutch too. I can try to match it by picture, as you suggest, although most of the parts stores around me are staffed by high school kids who only know how to look parts up by make and model using the computer. I am hoping someone has the part number for a compressor with clutch installed that would be a direct replacement. I'll let you know once I have it worked out so you can put part numbers in the parts list on the website. Scott -----Original Message----- From: John T. Blair To: isensee at aol.com Sent: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 12:08 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor At 11:27 AM 6/5/2010, you wrote: >Can anyone give me a part number for the AC compressor on a '75? Mine needs >to be replaced. I had a local parts store pull some York compressors that fit >various 1975 Fords, but none had the right clutch/pulley. Scott, Sorry I can't be much help. I tried to do some searching online for York ac compressors. But didn't see anything like what we need. Can you find a picture of just the clutch in the auto parts stores paper catalogues? If so, you may have to get the compressor and then a clutch. Can you order just the compressor without the clutch? What's different about the clutches? You might also want to check to see if you have any industrial AC supply houses in your area. They may be able to get you what you need. Just check the prices first. Keep us posted. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Jun 12 15:10:40 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 16:10:40 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Need to replace AC compressor References: <8CCD2DAB4CB8381-2E8-D967@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com><6.2.5.6.1.20100605130545.046bb298@cox.net><8CCD2F096EC3475-2E8-EA22@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com><73C9DD5521F9A24A8448B3D5E2725DE1080FA413@mse12be2.mse12.exchange.ms> <8CCD865D29FB77D-19A0-11FA4@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <618ECAC679FF46019BAEEC219A8A696C@greg> Scott, You should add the oil to the compressor and drier before closing off the system for vacuum. The vacuum pump should not suck out the oil. I converted mine to R-34 so I am not sure what oil you should use for R-12. Normally it is recommended to replace the expanision valve, but after removing a couple and replacing them the old ones looked like new. It is not easy to get to the one on the Bricklin so I would risk it and try it without replacing it. Greg 0036 From bsmoody at live.com Mon Jun 14 09:01:33 2010 From: bsmoody at live.com (Brandon Moody) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:01:33 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Delorean / Bricklin Show Lexington KY Message-ID: On Thursday june 17, the local HOOTERS in Lexington is Hosting a Car Cruise-in for everyone. Cruise will start at approx 7:30 and run till 10:00 approx. Everyone is welcome, no charge, just show up. They will have a local radio station there doing a live feed inviting listeners to come see the cars. Located at 3101 Richmond Rd Lexington, KY Directions: I-75 South to exite 108 ( man-o-war blvd.) turn right on man-o-war. go to 8th traffic light ( approx 2.4 miles ) turn right onto richmond road take the very first right next to Texas Roadhouse Your there ! Thanks -Brandon _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Jun 14 14:36:23 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:36:23 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system Message-ID: <8E19A5307FFD4C879A317206D2DDBD53@greg> I believe I have my alternator problem resolved. I had the battery checked when I had the tires rotated and balanced. The battery failed in the car, so they removed it and tested it and it passed. It appeared that the battery post only had a couple of threads left on them. I guess these were stock since the threads was only on the tip. The new ones I purchased threads went across the entire bolt. After that the battery tested OK in the car, but I still had an issue. I was thinking that it may be the regulator even though it was new. I checked to make sure the regulator had a good ground and ran another wire from the regulator to another ground to be sure. When I unplugged the regulator I notice a couple of the pins from the factory wiring had backed out of the plug. I also notice that on one of the pins since it was backed out that there were only a couple of wires attached to the pin (this was probably the main issue). I removed the pins and bent them out so they would snap securely in place. I also soldered a new wire to the pin that only had a few wires, since the original was so short and the pulling on the connection probably caused the wire to fail. Now there is slack in the wire and less stress. When testing with the voltmeter I am getting 13.7 volts at the alternator. The LED light I have connected to my battery is always showing green(full charge 12.5v). Car is running great and starts quickly. >From the feedback that I recieved from Rick and talking with a parts guy that had a similar issue with his 260Z it sounds like the one wire alternator with internal regulator is the way to go. It would resolve the issue of the external regulator and reduce the number of things that could go wrong when the system is not working correctly. The factory alternator appears to be 37 amps, the one I purchased was 55 amps. With the one wire it would typically be 110 amps and considerably cheaper than the 110 amp alternator with external regulator. With the addition of new electronics, plugs for charging, cell phone, ipod, etc. the more the better. The only issue I am having now is floor heat. I will start another email thread on that. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Jun 14 14:44:23 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:44:23 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat Message-ID: <053D848D46C94EA19A559CD0F27918B8@greg> Has anyone resolved the issue of floorboard heat? I have installed PVC sound/heat shield in the floor, lizard skin on the firewall, transmission tunnel and under the seats. I am still having issues with heat. In a short 10 mile trip the floor heat will hit around 115 F. The passenger side it a little better at 101 F. I am getting ready to try exhaust wrap since the pipes are over 200 near the floorboard. Engine temps are good at 180 F. I am not sure what else to try to get this heat down and make the car comfortable for a long drive. Right now it is the only thing preventing me from taking my car to the meet since I have a 3 1/2 hour drive and there are issues after 10 miles. Even if I could trailer it I am not sure it would be comfortable to drive for very long. Greg 0036 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Jun 14 16:06:26 2010 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:06:26 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat Message-ID: <500C786BEAF04124AD0ECE7F47FBC8B3@work> the only issue with heat wrap ion the pipes is that it deteriorate the pipes quickly, specially if you drive for long periods. I had a friend that wrapped a brand new set of headers then drove to Florida, I brought him down a new set as the header literally fell apart from the excess heat held in them. BTW they were not cheap Chinese headers but rather very expensive made in USA street rod headers, I would rater see you make up some semi circular heat shields from aluminum and space them off the pipes On 6/14/2010 4:44:23 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > Has anyone resolved the issue of floorboard heat? I have installed PVC > sound/heat shield in the floor, lizard skin on the firewall, transmission > tunnel and under the seats. I am still having issues with heat. In a > short > 10 mile trip the floor heat will hit around 115 F. The passenger side it > a > little better at 101 F. I am getting ready to try exhaust wrap since > the > pipes are over 200 near the floorboard. Engine temps are good at 180 F. > I am > not sure what else to try to get this heat down and make the car > comfortable > for a long drive. Right now it is the only thing preventing me from > taking my > car to the meet since I have a 3 1/2 hour drive and there are issues after > 10 > miles. Even if I could trailer it I am not sure it would be comfortable > to > drive for very long. > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ From isensee at aol.com Mon Jun 14 16:10:46 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:10:46 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat In-Reply-To: <053D848D46C94EA19A559CD0F27918B8@greg> References: <053D848D46C94EA19A559CD0F27918B8@greg> Message-ID: <8CCDA25924FE711-D84-926@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> It sounds like you have done almost everything you can to reduce heat transfer. I don't think there is a great solution. Another thing you can do is increase the efficiency of the AC. I expect you have heard about the need to align the air box so that you aren't losing some of the airflow. You can also put in a stronger fan so the AC puts out more air. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2010 3:44 pm Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat Has anyone resolved the issue of floorboard heat? I have installed PVC sound/heat shield in the floor, lizard skin on the firewall, transmission tunnel and under the seats. I am still having issues with heat. In a short 10 mile trip the floor heat will hit around 115 F. The passenger side it a little better at 101 F. I am getting ready to try exhaust wrap since the pipes are over 200 near the floorboard. Engine temps are good at 180 F. I am not sure what else to try to get this heat down and make the car comfortable for a long drive. Right now it is the only thing preventing me from taking my car to the meet since I have a 3 1/2 hour drive and there are issues after 10 miles. Even if I could trailer it I am not sure it would be comfortable to drive for very long. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Jun 14 17:06:02 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 19:06:02 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system In-Reply-To: <8E19A5307FFD4C879A317206D2DDBD53@greg> References: <8E19A5307FFD4C879A317206D2DDBD53@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100614190455.044466b8@cox.net> At 04:36 PM 6/14/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >I believe I have my alternator problem resolved. I had the battery checked >when I had the tires rotated and balanced..... Greg, Outstanding!!! Thanks for the update. I'd have never thought to check the plug. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Jun 14 17:14:08 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 19:14:08 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat In-Reply-To: <053D848D46C94EA19A559CD0F27918B8@greg> References: <053D848D46C94EA19A559CD0F27918B8@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100614190802.04446948@cox.net> At 04:44 PM 6/14/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >Has anyone resolved the issue of floorboard heat? I have installed PVC >sound/heat shield in the floor, lizard skin on the firewall, transmission >tunnel and under the seats. I am still having issues with heat..... Greg, Insulation inside the car helps, but the fiberglass can still cook from the exhaust temps. You'd really like to stop the heat before it gets to the fiberglass floor pan. You have tried to cure that with the lizard skin. I'm assuing that you have it all around the bottom of the floor pan where the exhaust pipes run close to it? Sounds to me like you've tried about everything. Maybe the exhaust wrap would be worth a try, especially from were the pipe goes under the car back past the seat area. Keep us posted!! John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Jun 14 20:17:41 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:17:41 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat References: <500C786BEAF04124AD0ECE7F47FBC8B3@work> Message-ID: <2EC5A01EB784415590301D239A93A464@greg> Rick, I had thought about that. I was looking for something like a computer heat sink with fins to help them cool, but I have not found anything that was close enough to wrap around and exhaust pipe. The problem is really space to do anything and I guess if there was space this would not be an issue. I had a custom exhaust made hoping a little larger pipe would help get the heat out. I did the lizard skin thing all the way behind the seats. I was thinking past that would not be an issue. I believe it has worked some. I have installed the new parking brake boot and that seems to be working. It was like a small chimney before. I realigned the drivers door last night trying to get a tighter fit and looked for holes to plug in the firewall. I only found two small pin size holes. My door has a tighter fit now which should help with any outside air getting in to help the engine heat throught he floor. My door does not close as smoothly as before, but I may have to live with that. Not much room to move the D-ring. I have shorty headers and was not planning on wrapping those. I was mainly focusing on the exhaust pipe down to the transmission cross member. I had found some wrap that was good to 2000 degrees. I believe if I could get 10-20 degrees difference in the floorboard it would not be worse than any other car. I may try to take a longer trip tomorrow. The engine is running better since I have resolved the charging issue. I am not sure if that is making it run cooler or not, but at least I know I have enough battery to restart the car if I turn it off. Greg 0036 From lvphotogroup at cox.net Mon Jun 14 22:22:29 2010 From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:22:29 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat References: <500C786BEAF04124AD0ECE7F47FBC8B3@work> <2EC5A01EB784415590301D239A93A464@greg> Message-ID: <004201cb0c42$5e355740$1500a8c0@editing> Take the car down to your muffler shop and get ceramic coated pipes installed I really cuts down on the heat. Larry in LV #2046 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Schroeder" To: "Rick at High Tech Coatings" ; "bl" Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 7:17 PM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat > Rick, > > I had thought about that. I was looking for something like a computer > heat > sink with fins to help them cool, but I have not found anything that was > close enough to wrap around and exhaust pipe. The problem is really space > to do anything and I guess if there was space this would not be an issue. > > I had a custom exhaust made hoping a little larger pipe would help get the > heat out. I did the lizard skin thing all the way behind the seats. I > was > thinking past that would not be an issue. I believe it has worked some. > I > have installed the new parking brake boot and that seems to be working. > It > was like a small chimney before. > > I realigned the drivers door last night trying to get a tighter fit and > looked for holes to plug in the firewall. I only found two small pin size > holes. My door has a tighter fit now which should help with any outside > air > getting in to help the engine heat throught he floor. My door does not > close as smoothly as before, but I may have to live with that. Not much > room to move the D-ring. > > I have shorty headers and was not planning on wrapping those. I was > mainly > focusing on the exhaust pipe down to the transmission cross member. I had > found some wrap that was good to 2000 degrees. I believe if I could get > 10-20 degrees difference in the floorboard it would not be worse than any > other car. > > I may try to take a longer trip tomorrow. The engine is running better > since I have resolved the charging issue. I am not sure if that is making > it run cooler or not, but at least I know I have enough battery to restart > the car if I turn it off. > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/lvphotogroup at cox.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2937 - Release Date: 06/14/10 06:35:00 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Tue Jun 15 04:50:51 2010 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 10:50:51 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100614190802.04446948@cox.net> References: <053D848D46C94EA19A559CD0F27918B8@greg>, <6.2.5.6.1.20100614190802.04446948@cox.net> Message-ID: ive seen tunnel heat shield that wraps on top of tranny ..they make it for vet ..when i get there one day will try it out ... > Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 19:14:08 -0400 > To: Bricklin at autox.team.net > From: jblair1948 at cox.net > Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat > > At 04:44 PM 6/14/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: > > >Has anyone resolved the issue of floorboard heat? I have installed PVC > >sound/heat shield in the floor, lizard skin on the firewall, transmission > >tunnel and under the seats. I am still having issues with heat..... > > Greg, > > Insulation inside the car helps, but the fiberglass can still cook > from the exhaust > temps. You'd really like to stop the heat before it gets to the > fiberglass floor pan. > You have tried to cure that with the lizard skin. I'm assuing that > you have it all > around the bottom of the floor pan where the exhaust pipes run close to it? > > Sounds to me like you've tried about everything. Maybe the exhaust wrap > would be worth a try, especially from were the pipe goes under the car back > past the seat area. > > Keep us posted!! > > John > > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/serge.ber at sympatico.ca From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Jun 16 19:48:39 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:48:39 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat Message-ID: <5CBA79BE3F7A43CD9B2E657D60513789@greg> I completed a 60 mile round trip in the Bricklin today. Engine temps were around 180-210 and would fluctuate. This was on a 93 degree day with the AC on. Floor boards were still around 100 to 110, but tolerable. The passenger side stayed considerable cooler around 90. There is still some air leaking around the door area. Really only noticable when a large truck passes. I will try to see if I can get some weather stripping or foam rubber around there to reduce the air floor. Looking at leaving for Lexington in the morning, hoping to catch Herb's presentation tomorrow afternoon. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Jun 16 22:48:15 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 23:48:15 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat References: <5CBA79BE3F7A43CD9B2E657D60513789@greg> Message-ID: <6B7A0793B26D4E998B1AA8C0038FFFDE@greg> Well checking the latest agenda does not look like Herb will be there. So now just hoping for a slow and safe trip up there. I did some checking with a light and found a serious gap at the bottom of the driver side door which explains the air that I am feeling. I have placed some weather strip there hoping to make a tighter seal. I am not seeing any light coming through there now, but air has a tendency to find any gaps. So I will find out tomorrow how well it is working. Greg 0036 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Fri Jun 18 12:02:31 2010 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 18:02:31 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] door skin and shell Message-ID: does anyone out there, that's got nos car all original ..want pics where door skin and doorshell meet together see if they used fillers ext ...thank for your help ..serge From lvphotogroup at cox.net Fri Jun 18 14:25:45 2010 From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny) Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 13:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] door skin and shell References: Message-ID: <000d01cb0f24$7ea8ebb0$1500a8c0@editing> Serge On mine, the door skin is about a 1/4 inch larger then the shell and is filled to make a smooth transition and to cover the seam of the shell Larry in LV #2048 ----- Original Message ----- From: "serge berube" To: Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 11:02 AM Subject: [Bricklin] door skin and shell > does anyone out there, that's got nos car all original ..want pics where > door > skin and doorshell meet together see if they used fillers ext ...thank for > your help ..serge > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/lvphotogroup at cox.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2946 - Release Date: 06/18/10 06:35:00 From ltucci at royalenvelope.com Fri Jun 18 19:01:14 2010 From: ltucci at royalenvelope.com (Lou Tucci) Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 21:01:14 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak References: Message-ID: Does anyone know what brake parts to buy for 1975 Bricklin ________________________________ From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of D Walker Sent: Sat 01/05/2010 3:48 PM To: bricklin0095 at aol.com; breton48 at live.com; lvphotogroup at cox.net; Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Yes indeed. And to do it right. Jack it up. Remove the wheels. Back off the shoes. Or remove the drums. So there is no drag on the drums. And use a new pinion nut. And do not over tighten! There is a crush spacer in there. And you do not want to bottom it out. Or it will have to be replaced. GO SLOW on the nut and check the torque often. -----Original Message----- From: bricklin0095 at aol.com Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 7:57 PM To: treefrogno9 at webtv.net, breton48 at live.com, lvphotogroup at cox.net, Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak The old seal will have the part no. on it as a last resort..Make sure you check the seal surface on the yoke.. If it is grooved from the old seal you will need a seal repair kit.. This will be a thin metal sleeve.. Heat it up in an oven and it will slide over the yoke giving the new seal a nice smooth sruface to seal on... Also before removing the yoke put a torque wrench on the big nut and see how much torque it takes to turn the rear end. When you put it back together use this figure to ensure the nut goes back on with the correct preload... The tighter you torque the nut the more torque it will take to turn the gears. -----Original Message----- From: D Walker <treefrogno9 at webtv.net> To: JLC <breton48 at live.com>; 'Larry Ankeny' <lvphotogroup at cox.net>; Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 7:17 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak A Dana 20 is a transfer case. It's an AMC 20 or sometimes called a Corporate 20. -----Original Message----- From: JLC Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:24 PM To: 'Larry Ankeny', Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak The axle is a Dana 20, used in AMC V8 and Jeep vehicles of the time. I assume you could get the info on a Jeep or AMC forum. Hopefully someone can give you the parts # right here. JLC -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 3:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/breton48 at live.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/bricklin0095 at aol.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/ltucci at royalenvelope.com From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Jun 22 01:07:46 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 02:07:46 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat Message-ID: <011C0B0AA58E4A84B32A0AEA895427B1@greg> After checking the transmission tunnel for heat on my 60 mile round trip it was running around 135 at the shifter and close to that at the transmission tunnel. I decided to wrap the exhaust pipe (not the header since that would violate the edelbrock warranty). Left early in the morning on the 16th for the 3 1/2 hour drive to Lexington. The weather strip on the door help with the air that was coming in when truck passed changing the flow of air. The transmission tunnel stayed around 85 during the trip and the shifter remained cooler (90). The floor heat remained high as 115 on the drivers side and around 90 on the passengers side. The exhaust wrap did nothing to reduce the heat in the floorboard. So this must be all engine compartment heat. At the meet someone at the meet mentioned the hole in the bottom of the steering column in the engine compartment. I decided to try to cover that hole with aluminum tape since I had brought some with me. I was not able to verify if it there was any improvement until the next day when we left the meet. There was some improvment in the steering column temp initially, but it really just delayed the temp rising for about an hour. The temp still got up to 115 on the column. I may need to use something with more of an insulating factor to increase the effectiveness. I pointed the center AC vent to the column and it helped reduce the heat. My AC through the vents was as low as 49 based on the IR temp sensor. So I was real happy with the AC temp. It was higher on the drivers side center vent 55 and dash 70. So am loosing some through the fabric vent tube as it passes the firewall. It may be worth replacing with plastic. I still have the original blower motor and I can see where a new one would improve the cooling in the car. I am going to try to repaint the headers with a 2000 degree max paint. The 500 degree engin paint I had used just flaked off. Both of these contain ceramic and were designed for high temps. I may also look into someway to get some air to the firewall. Maybe some kind of deflector or directed air from under the car. I will have to look at what options there are. The trip to Lexington went well even though I am not use to pressing on the gas pedal for that long of a trip. The engine temps stayed at 180 and crept above that a few times, but then right back. The 700R4 transmission kept the RPM's to 1800 at 70 MPH. The ride was a little bumpy at that speed, but I accidentally went 80 a couple of times. I am assuming the rear tires just are not balanced as well as the front, but it could also be the original rims. The one issue I had was that a rod on the carb came loose due to it breaking where the clip would normally hold it in. I am not sure of the cause. I fixed it the next day with a twist tie and some aluminum tape as a back up to hold it in place. I had no issues with that fix, but I am waiting on the part to arrive before I drive again. I lost a bolt on the front air damn and I will fix that tomorrow. My new air pressure switch arrived on Saturday and I will address that also. I need to recheck the rocker studs and rolling rockers to make sure there are no issues there. My wife was comfortable during the trip and even fell asleep a few times. The heat issues seem to be mainly on the drivers side. The steering column is one culprit, but there may be others. Just need to look to make sure air can flow. It was good to put some faces and voices with names at the meet and it was good to bounce ideas off each other about changes to the car. I knew that I had some issues that I still need to fix, but nothing that would be an issue with the car being safe to drive. Like door ajar light and dome light not working. I will get to those sometime. Still having alternator issues today, but with my Toyota. Alternator failed testing today and I had to replace it. Seems like I have gone through three alternators in the past week. I guess that is better than having the head of two cars in the same week. Sorry for the rambling, but wanted to update everyone. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Jun 22 06:15:37 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:15:37 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat In-Reply-To: <011C0B0AA58E4A84B32A0AEA895427B1@greg> References: <011C0B0AA58E4A84B32A0AEA895427B1@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100622081353.0456e0b0@cox.net> At 03:07 AM 6/22/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >After checking the transmission tunnel for heat on my 60 mile round trip it was >running around 135 at the shifter and close to that at the transmission tunnel.... >It was good to put some faces and voices with names at the meet and it was >good to bounce ideas off each other about changes to the car..... >Sorry for the rambling, but wanted to update everyone. Greg, It was great finally meeting you face to face! And thanks for the update. Glad to hear you made it home ok. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Jun 22 08:23:49 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 10:23:49 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] BI meet Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100622101949.045cdf08@cox.net> Hey gang, It was great to see everyone there - old friends and new faces! I hope everyone made it home OK. I know of two cars that ended up being towed home. I hope I can get them to write an article about their experience for the magazine. If you broke down, had a problem and had it fixed at the meet, please write an article about your trials. These make great stories, and lets people know not to worry about driving their cars. Also if you have pictures, if you can, please burn me a CD of them and mail it to me. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From glcurley at aol.com Wed Jun 23 15:56:52 2010 From: glcurley at aol.com (George Curley) Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 17:56:52 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin In-Reply-To: <4C0D4A51.2020403@comcast.net> References: <8CCD3B0C8D752E3-2E8-1443E@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <7CC4A72592CA409092AF78ECBA61A18F@greg> <8CCD3DF537795C8-2114-1D132@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> <08EE7C1195B9479782652F050B7AE956@greg> <4C0D4A51.2020403@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C228324.7020505@aol.com> The $200 version has one door fixed in the open position. The manufacturer was at the meet and he mentioned getting feedback from owners through polls, etc. However I don't recall seeing any e-mails so that must have been limited to the web site. They look good. George #670, 220 Paul J. Amoroso wrote: > It doesn't appear that the doors open, however. > > Amo > #1207 > > > > Alchemy wrote: >> And the pre order you were able to pick a 3 digit vin, if I recall I >> think >> that was on the $200 version > _ From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Wed Jun 23 20:46:25 2010 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 02:46:25 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] bricklin in citizen today ... Message-ID: http://www.ottawacitizen.com/business/Museum+hits+road/3189079/story.html From sbunin at cablespeed.com Wed Jun 23 22:24:37 2010 From: sbunin at cablespeed.com (Seth) Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 00:24:37 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Stretch Limo Message-ID: <4C22DE05.1030003@cablespeed.com> I'm sure everyone's seen it before, but I came across this Delorean on the web and had to post it... http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/images/gallery_images_dt/DMCdt_Limo_1280.jpg Seth #1544 From lvphotogroup at cox.net Fri Jun 25 23:59:25 2010 From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny) Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 22:59:25 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Stretch Limo References: <4C22DE05.1030003@cablespeed.com> Message-ID: <002901cb14f4$bbb1ab70$1400a8c0@editing> That is too cool. Wish I would have thought of it Larry in LV #2046 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Seth" To: "Bricklin Club" Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 9:24 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Stretch Limo > I'm sure everyone's seen it before, but I came across this Delorean on > the web and had to post it... > > http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/images/gallery_images_dt/DMCdt_Limo_1280.jpg > > Seth > #1544 > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/lvphotogroup at cox.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2959 - Release Date: 06/23/10 18:35:00 From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Jun 26 23:06:13 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 00:06:13 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Pinion Nut Torque Message-ID: <726401902F0A4822B8957745C0132577@greg> I found an issue after the trip to Lexington when I noticed a puddle of diff oil on the floor. The pinion oil seal was leaking. I removed the nut, pull the yoke and removed the seal (actually took a few hours). I have installed the new seal and found I need to replace the pinion nut also. I also found after reading there is not a specific torque spec for the nut and I should have checked the inch pounds of torque required to move the pinion with the wheels removed. So to late for that. Is there a guideline for the pinion nut torque on the AMC 20 diff or a method to check the correct torque without causing issues? Greg 0036 From colemaal at hotmail.com Sun Jun 27 21:05:25 2010 From: colemaal at hotmail.com (Alan Coleman) Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 03:05:25 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] FW: Past Magazine Article Message-ID: One of the past Brickline issues had an article on creating a new wiring harness for the door system and I can't find it and its not listed in the magazine index. Can anyone tell me which issue it was?? Thanks a lot. Alan Coleman #246- Original Owner _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From colemaal at hotmail.com Mon Jun 28 09:18:25 2010 From: colemaal at hotmail.com (Alan Coleman) Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 15:18:25 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] Door wiring harness Message-ID: Thanks to all who responded to my request looking for the article about the door wiring harness. I found it thanks to you all. Somehow when I looked at that issue, I had missed it. Alan Coleman #246 Original Owner _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Tue Jun 29 14:09:42 2010 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 20:09:42 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] Pinion Nut Torque Message-ID: Without a torque value to start with. I would say just try and sneak up on the crush sleeve and give it a try. There is not a true accurate way to do it with the carrier and axels in place. Because the pinion assembly is installed first. Other than removing the sleeve and replacing it with a solid spacer made to match the length of the crush sleeve. -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 1:06 AM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] Pinion Nut Torque I found an issue after the trip to Lexington when I noticed a puddle of diff oil on the floor. The pinion oil seal was leaking. I removed the nut, pull the yoke and removed the seal (actually took a few hours). I have installed the new seal and found I need to replace the pinion nut also. I also found after reading there is not a specific torque spec for the nut and I should have checked the inch pounds of torque required to move the pinion with the wheels removed. So to late for that. Is there a guideline for the pinion nut torque on the AMC 20 diff or a method to check the correct torque without causing issues? Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net From sportee at sasktel.net Wed Jun 30 08:42:25 2010 From: sportee at sasktel.net (S P) Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 08:42:25 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights? Message-ID: <4fe964e71c9c9.4c2b0371@sasktel.net> Looking for a pair of tail lights for a project car... anyone have some or know of any floating around? Chad. From isensee at aol.com Wed Jun 30 12:09:14 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 14:09:14 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] The Bricklin made another web list Message-ID: <8CCE6967B416659-1ED4-4CD@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com> http://tinyurl.com/29off74