From Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net  Thu Jul  1 00:00:03 2010
From: Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net (Michael V. Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 02:00:03 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
In-Reply-To: <4fe964e71c9c9.4c2b0371@sasktel.net>
References: <4fe964e71c9c9.4c2b0371@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <003201cb18e2$a61d88a0$f25899e0$@Verizon.net>

Could give our vendors a try -
http://www.bricklin.org/forum/links.asp?action=showsubcat&id=1

Rich Haines may also be able to help - rah_seh at hotmail.com.




> -----Original Message-----
> From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S P
> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 10:42 AM
> To: bricklin at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
> 
> Looking for a pair of tail lights for a project car... anyone have some or
know
> of any floating around?
> Chad.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From panepintos at verizon.net  Thu Jul  1 05:39:54 2010
From: panepintos at verizon.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 07:39:54 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
References: <4fe964e71c9c9.4c2b0371@sasktel.net>
	<003201cb18e2$a61d88a0$f25899e0$@Verizon.net>
Message-ID: <D22F5BF589AD44F69693D8AE7BD623AF@Fiscal>

Another note -- they are the same as an exotic of the era -- I believe they 
are the same as the DeTomaso/Ford Pantera...  not that they are all that 
common either.
They may be the same as othe DeTomaso cars too?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael V. Mitchell" <Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?


> Could give our vendors a try -
> http://www.bricklin.org/forum/links.asp?action=showsubcat&id=1
>
> Rich Haines may also be able to help - rah_seh at hotmail.com.
>
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S P
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 10:42 AM
>> To: bricklin at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
>>
>> Looking for a pair of tail lights for a project car... anyone have some 
>> or
> know
>> of any floating around?
>> Chad.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature 
> which had a name of smime.p7s]
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/panepintos at verizon.net

From loren0701 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 05:44:59 2010
From: loren0701 at gmail.com (Loren Levinsohn)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 06:44:59 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilvrhBgcmLAH0jinY1ARt5kDU0UaP4wndTpoDxH@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4fe964e71c9c9.4c2b0371@sasktel.net>
	<003201cb18e2$a61d88a0$f25899e0$@Verizon.net>
	<D22F5BF589AD44F69693D8AE7BD623AF@Fiscal>
	<AANLkTilvrhBgcmLAH0jinY1ARt5kDU0UaP4wndTpoDxH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimiEmX_Lw7Tla7doxBmN0X-0tweGvmQo-OZ_8AN@mail.gmail.com>

Call Bob Hoffman at Bob's Backyard or Terry Tanner at Bricklin Parts and
Service.  They both have them.

On Jul 1, 2010 6:40 AM, "Smoky & Connie Panepinto" <panepintos at verizon.net>
wrote:

Another note -- they are the same as an exotic of the era -- I believe they
are the same as the DeTomaso/Ford Pantera...  not that they are all that
common either.
They may be the same as othe DeTomaso cars too?

----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael V. Mitchell"
<Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?


> Could give our vendors a try -
> > http://www.bricklin.org/forum/links.asp?action=showsubcat&id=1
> >
> ...
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/panepintos at verizon.net
>

_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net...

From glcurley at aol.com  Thu Jul  1 07:07:44 2010
From: glcurley at aol.com (George Curley)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 09:07:44 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
In-Reply-To: <D22F5BF589AD44F69693D8AE7BD623AF@Fiscal>
References: <4fe964e71c9c9.4c2b0371@sasktel.net>
	<003201cb18e2$a61d88a0$f25899e0$@Verizon.net>
	<D22F5BF589AD44F69693D8AE7BD623AF@Fiscal>
Message-ID: <4C2C9320.7080907@aol.com>

They are the same as other exotics of the era such as DeTomaso Pantera, 
Maserati Ghibli, Maserati Merek, Maserati Khamsin, Intermeccanica Indra, 
and possibly others.  There are some different lens color combinations 
however.  There were more than twice as many Panteras as Bricklins. 
DeTomaso Mangusta tail lights are a different shape.  Bitter CD lights 
are also a different shape.

George #220, 670


Smoky & Connie Panepinto wrote:
> Another note -- they are the same as an exotic of the era -- I believe 
> they are the same as the DeTomaso/Ford Pantera...  not that they are 
> all that common either.
> They may be the same as othe DeTomaso cars too?
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael V. Mitchell" 
> <Bricklin1155 at Verizon.net>
> To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
>
>
>> Could give our vendors a try -
>> http://www.bricklin.org/forum/links.asp?action=showsubcat&id=1
>>
>> Rich Haines may also be able to help - rah_seh at hotmail.com.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-
>>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S P
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 10:42 AM
>>> To: bricklin at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin tail lights?
>>>
>>> Looking for a pair of tail lights for a project car... anyone have 
>>> some or
>> know
>>> of any floating around?
>>> Chad.

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Sun Jul  4 22:02:04 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 23:02:04 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Pinion Nut Torque
References: <726401902F0A4822B8957745C0132577@greg>
Message-ID: <BBFE83085D3C4121853D64D42D98F0DB@greg>

I had replaced the seal and tightened the pinon nut.  I am having a small 
leak.  Would this indicate an issue with the seal or the pinion nut not 
torqued enough?

Greg 0036 

From treefrogno9 at webtv.net  Mon Jul  5 06:47:03 2010
From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 12:47:03 GMT
Subject: [Bricklin] Pinion Nut Torque
Message-ID: <BAY117-DS1340A0D2D2AB4D89DD6556FBB10@phx.gbl>

Did the yoke have a groove where the seal rides against it? I don't think the torque on the nut would have anything to do with it. Unless it's leaking at or around the nut. In the early 70's when i worked for VW. It was commen practice to remove the tension spring from the seal and unscrew the spring and snip around an eighth inch off the female end of the spring.  Then screw the spring ends back together pop it back into the seal and install. Polish the friction area on the steel with crocus cloth. This was done to avoid expensive parts replacment. Spindles, flywheels and tranny main shafts. I still do it today with no problems.


-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder
Sent: Monday, July 5, 2010 12:02 AM
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Pinion Nut Torque

I had replaced the seal and tightened the pinon nut.  I am having a small 
leak.  Would this indicate an issue with the seal or the pinion nut not 
torqued enough?

Greg 0036 
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net

From isensee at aol.com  Wed Jul  7 17:12:08 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 19:12:08 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin AC
Message-ID: <8CCEC40F51340DF-1740-1DAF@webmail-m083.sysops.aol.com>

 I recently replaced the AC compressor on my '75 Bricklin which was making
noise and on its way out. Prior to that, I had done the changes that have been
suggested in the Brickline to keep the cockpit cooler such as insulating the
floor under the carpet, aligning the heater box and upgrading to a stronger
blower motor. I have been driving it in 90+ degree Texas heat with high
humidity the last couple of weeks and am happy to report it is keeping the
interior comfortable. So, for those of you who have been struggling to get
your AC working well enough to cope with summer weather, it is doable.

I sent John an article for the Brickline on how to replace the AC compressor.

Scott Isensee

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Wed Jul  7 18:14:06 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 19:14:06 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin AC
References: <8CCEC40F51340DF-1740-1DAF@webmail-m083.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <516A458773ED45B39F71AD21D0823EBB@greg>

Scott,

Did you upgrade to R-134, remain with R-12 or did you use a R-12 substitute?

Greg 0036 

From isensee at aol.com  Wed Jul  7 18:30:02 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 20:30:02 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin AC
In-Reply-To: <516A458773ED45B39F71AD21D0823EBB@greg>
References: <8CCEC40F51340DF-1740-1DAF@webmail-m083.sysops.aol.com>
	<516A458773ED45B39F71AD21D0823EBB@greg>
Message-ID: <8CCEC4BD6F6226C-1ED0-36C9@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

Greg,

I stayed with R-12. I have tried both an R-134 conversion and an R-12
substitute on other cars and haven't been satisfied with the results.



 Scott






-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
To: bricklin at autox.team.net; isensee at aol.com
Sent: Wed, Jul 7, 2010 7:14 pm
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Bricklin AC


Scott,

Did you upgrade to R-134, remain with R-12 or did you use a R-12 substitute?

Greg 0036


=

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Jul  9 15:37:17 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 17:37:17 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Show Pictures
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100709173615.045003e0@cox.net>

Hey gang,

If you took a bunch of pictures at the meet, please burn a copy of them to CD
and mail it to me.  That way I've got some pictures for the Oct. issue.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Jul 13 14:42:23 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:42:23 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] what problems
In-Reply-To: <B18AD6B7B6A948BBA072EE78F9C0A4C1@greg>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091231181854.01e06300@cox.net>
	<B18AD6B7B6A948BBA072EE78F9C0A4C1@greg>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>

Last year, Ken - on the Yahoo Bricklin group, posted a short piece about
not being able to get a lift.  So he was looking at other options, 
inparticularly
the Kwiklift:

<http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm>http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm

I was wondering if any one has one of these and how they like it.

I was trying to get Ken to write an article about it, but he didn't have one.
He was hoping to get one by Aug. of this year.  I've emailed him to see if
he's still planning on it, but haven't heard back from him yet.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From breton48 at live.com  Tue Jul 13 16:24:48 2010
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:24:48 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] automotive Lift
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091231181854.01e06300@cox.net>
	<B18AD6B7B6A948BBA072EE78F9C0A4C1@greg>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP7F8F311E080656F77FF0FAFB90@phx.gbl>

I got John Blair's email, but not the one he was responding to... Last year,
I looked at the kind of lift John is talking about, but decided to go for a
full size lift instead. I realize I am lucky to have a 45'x 45' barn to put
the lift in. I made sure I would have 14' clearance to the rafters when I
had the barn built. 

First I had to decide between two or four post lift. For safety reasons (I
am far from a professional technician), I chose a four post lift, but with
two rolling jacks - again, much safer than bottle jacks and I can lift the
vehicle off the four post tracks to work on brakes or suspension.

Then I had to decide on the brand. After looking at as many brands as I
could find online, I chose a Bendpak HD-9 and the rolling jacks are RJ-45. I
liked the sturdy built, the center position of the lifting cables inside the
posts, and this was the only "hobby lift" I could find ETL approved. I hoped
the equipment would be made in the USA, but this was not to be. Bendpak used
to make all their lifts in the USA, but mine came with a "made in China"
sticker, and the rolling jacks too.  I also bought a 8 gallon oil drain - I
just changed the oil/filter and lubed the Bricklin on the lift this
afternoon.

Certainly a more expensive proposition than the Kwiklift, but I do not
regret the purchase, except maybe the rolling jacks as I have not used them
yet! By the way, the rolling jacks are quite pricey. I paid $1210 for each
jack. The lift was $2660. To this you might have to add transport (sometimes
shipping is free), and installation (which I think is never free). I know
some might want to install the lift themselves, but after watching the two
installers do it, I am glad I decided not to tackle the job on my own.

I have been very pleased with the Bendpak, and here is a link to this lift
on the Benpak website:

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/HD-9.aspx

JLC
#2121

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
John wrote:
Last year, Ken - on the Yahoo Bricklin group, posted a short piece about
not being able to get a lift.  So he was looking at other options, 
inparticularly
the Kwiklift:

<http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm>http://www.kwiklift.com/features-a
ll.htm

I was wondering if any one has one of these and how they like it.

I was trying to get Ken to write an article about it, but he didn't have
one.
He was hoping to get one by Aug. of this year.  I've emailed him to see if
he's still planning on it, but haven't heard back from him yet.

John

From irwin.aronson at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 16:25:52 2010
From: irwin.aronson at gmail.com (Irwin Aronson)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:25:52 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] what problems
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091231181854.01e06300@cox.net>
	<B18AD6B7B6A948BBA072EE78F9C0A4C1@greg>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimkHoVpVV5TNhB95Z4IZiSRr2tQWqqLMsba1QJv@mail.gmail.com>

I am forced to sell #2212. It is a safety white Brick with a little over
5000 original miles. It was totally "Tannerized" about 13 years ago and has
since been kept in a heated and air conditioned garage. It has some typical
minor crazing but is otherwise in great shape in all respects.

I have not been able to enjoy it for some time and reluctantly must let it
go. I will accept a reasonable cash offer.

I can be reached by return email   irwin.aronson at gmail.com.

On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 4:42 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> Last year, Ken - on the Yahoo Bricklin group, posted a short piece about
> not being able to get a lift.  So he was looking at other options,
> inparticularly
> the Kwiklift:
>
> <http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm>
> http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm
>
> I was wondering if any one has one of these and how they like it.
>
> I was trying to get Ken to write an article about it, but he didn't have
> one.
> He was hoping to get one by Aug. of this year.  I've emailed him to see if
> he's still planning on it, but haven't heard back from him yet.
>
> John
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/irwin.aronson at gmail.com

From isensee at aol.com  Tue Jul 13 17:12:39 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:12:39 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] what problems
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091231181854.01e06300@cox.net><B18AD6B7B6A948BBA072EE78F9C0A4C1@greg>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <8CCF0F806371F3F-214C-30F1@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>

 Here are some reviews of it:


http://tinyurl.com/2c8r557
http://tinyurl.com/29crapd
http://tinyurl.com/23ympkp
http://tinyurl.com/25v3odk
http://tinyurl.com/2bze9wc
http://tinyurl.com/2f4pctb



 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net>
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 13, 2010 3:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] what problems


Last year, Ken - on the Yahoo Bricklin group, posted a short piece about

not being able to get a lift.  So he was looking at other options,

inparticularly

the Kwiklift:



<http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm>http://www.kwiklift.com/features-al
l.htm



I was wondering if any one has one of these and how they like it.



I was trying to get Ken to write an article about it, but he didn't have one.

He was hoping to get one by Aug. of this year.  I've emailed him to see if

he's still planning on it, but haven't heard back from him yet.



John





John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net

Va. Beach, Va

Phone:  (757) 495-8229



           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)

      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III

                        65 Rambler Classic



Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan

Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org



If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!

If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

_______________________________________________

Bricklin at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Jul 13 17:32:10 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:32:10 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Lifts - incorrectly Was:  what problems
In-Reply-To: <8CCF0F806371F3F-214C-30F1@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091231181854.01e06300@cox.net>
	<B18AD6B7B6A948BBA072EE78F9C0A4C1@greg>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100713163841.046582d0@cox.net>
	<8CCF0F806371F3F-214C-30F1@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100713193010.04656bc0@cox.net>

At 07:12 PM 7/13/2010, Scott Isensee wrote:

 >Here are some reviews of it:

 >http://tinyurl.com/2c8r557
 >http://tinyurl.com/29crapd
 >http://tinyurl.com/23ympkp
 >http://tinyurl.com/25v3odk
 >http://tinyurl.com/2bze9wc
 >http://tinyurl.com/2f4pctb


Scott,

Thanks for the links.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Jul 13 18:41:31 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:41:31 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
Message-ID: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>

My car runs good while moving and had no issues other than floor heat on my
trip to Lexington.  One issue that keeps annoying me is at idle after driving
for a while an not moving, like at a stop light or in traffic.  The car idles
good initially after the stop, but if I sit there long enough it will start to
idle rough and in some cases just stop.  I have checked the timing and
readjusted the carb, but it still has the same issue.  Any suggestions of what
to look at.  I am thinking of one thing, but I want to wait to mention it so I
do not force the discussion onto that topic.

Greg 0036

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Jul 13 19:18:10 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:18:10 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
In-Reply-To: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100713211442.0466d510@cox.net>

At 08:41 PM 7/13/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote:

 >My car runs good while moving and had no issues other than floor heat on my
 >trip to Lexington.  One issue that keeps annoying me is at idle after driving
 >for a while an not moving, like at a stop light or in traffic.  The car idles
 >good initially after the stop, but if I sit there long enough it 
will start to
 >idle rough and in some cases just stop.  I have checked the timing and
 >readjusted the carb, but it still has the same issue.  Any 
suggestions of what
 >to look at.  I am thinking of one thing, but I want to wait to 
mention it so I
 >do not force the discussion onto that topic.

Greg,

A couple of thoughts:

1. What is your idle speed?  It should be about 700 rpm ish.

2. Is the wire connected to the solenoid at the carb?  Is that 
solenoid working?

3. Have you rebuilt the carb reciently?  I'm thinking maybe some dirt in the
     idle jets.

4. EGR valve incorrectly starting to open.

5. Possibly a vacuum leak?

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From isensee at aol.com  Tue Jul 13 20:07:24 2010
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:07:24 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
In-Reply-To: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
Message-ID: <8CCF1106F2CB6A5-214C-498E@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>

 The carburetor may be getting hot enough to boil the gas. Today's gas has a
higher vapor pressure than it did in the 70s. That isn't a problem for the new
cars which are all fuel injected, but is bad news for carburetors. One thing
that often helps is to put a thicker gasket under the carburetor to insulate
it a bit from heat coming up from the engine. You can also insulate the fuel
line up near the carb. You can also try gas from different stations. Some are
supposed to be less prone to the problem. I have also heard that premium is
less likely to boil since it has little or no ethanol in it.




 Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 13, 2010 7:41 pm
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question


My car runs good while moving and had no issues other than floor heat on my

trip to Lexington.  One issue that keeps annoying me is at idle after driving

for a while an not moving, like at a stop light or in traffic.  The car idles

good initially after the stop, but if I sit there long enough it will start
to

idle rough and in some cases just stop.  I have checked the timing and

readjusted the carb, but it still has the same issue.  Any suggestions of
what

to look at.  I am thinking of one thing, but I want to wait to mention it so
I

do not force the discussion onto that topic.



Greg 0036

_______________________________________________

Bricklin at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From lvphotogroup at cox.net  Tue Jul 13 20:32:03 2010
From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:32:03 -0700
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
Message-ID: <004a01cb22fc$bef87cd0$1400a8c0@editing>

You described the very problem I had one time.
turned out to be a stuck float in the carb. At idle, I wasn't burning gas 
fast enough to keep the fuel bowl in the carb from overfilling to the point 
it would overflow and trickle into the pistons.  Making it run rough and 
sometimes kill the engine.

As long as I was driving, all was well

Larry in LV
#2046


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder at comcast.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:41 PM
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question


> My car runs good while moving and had no issues other than floor heat on 
> my
> trip to Lexington.  One issue that keeps annoying me is at idle after 
> driving
> for a while an not moving, like at a stop light or in traffic.  The car 
> idles
> good initially after the stop, but if I sit there long enough it will 
> start to
> idle rough and in some cases just stop.  I have checked the timing and
> readjusted the carb, but it still has the same issue.  Any suggestions of 
> what
> to look at.  I am thinking of one thing, but I want to wait to mention it 
> so I
> do not force the discussion onto that topic.
>
> Greg 0036
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/lvphotogroup at cox.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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18:36:00

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Jul 13 22:06:48 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:06:48 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
	<8CCF1106F2CB6A5-214C-498E@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <499F83B24F58410584FF170A833BE501@greg>

Scott,

I am hoping this is not the issue, but I will take some temps around the carb
and see what they are reading.  It will be interesting to see what they are.
This is also one of the reasons I went with the Edelbrock Air Gap style intake
manifold.  It has an air opening below the carb to help reduce the heat.  The
cooler the better.

The gas I have in the tank now has no ethanol so I should be good there..  I
do not like the fuel line that I have on there now, so I may consider
replacing it.

Greg 0036
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: isensee at aol.com
  To: gschroeder at comcast.net ; Bricklin at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 9:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Idling question


  The carburetor may be getting hot enough to boil the gas. Today's gas has a
higher vapor pressure than it did in the 70s. That isn't a problem for the new
cars which are all fuel injected, but is bad news for carburetors. One thing
that often helps is to put a thicker gasket under the carburetor to insulate
it a bit from heat coming up from the engine. You can also insulate the fuel
line up near the carb. You can also try gas from different stations. Some are
supposed to be less prone to the problem. I have also heard that premium is
less likely to boil since it has little or no ethanol in it.



  Scott



  -----Original Message-----
  From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
  To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tue, Jul 13, 2010 7:41 pm
  Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question


My car runs good while moving and had no issues other than floor heat on my

trip to Lexington.  One issue that keeps annoying me is at idle after driving

for a while an not moving, like at a stop light or in traffic.  The car idles

good initially after the stop, but if I sit there long enough it will start
to

idle rough and in some cases just stop.  I have checked the timing and

readjusted the carb, but it still has the same issue.  Any suggestions of
what

to look at.  I am thinking of one thing, but I want to wait to mention it so
I

do not force the discussion onto that topic.



Greg 0036

_______________________________________________

Bricklin at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Jul 13 22:14:55 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:14:55 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100713211442.0466d510@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4296DE002E8243BF92B44ECC70FDA612@greg>

Replies below.

Greg 0036

> A couple of thoughts:
>
> 1. What is your idle speed?  It should be about 700 rpm ish.
    Right around 800 before putting the car in gear and the AC off.  With it 
in gear and the AC on it is around 600.

>
> 2. Is the wire connected to the solenoid at the carb?  Is that solenoid 
> working?

I have replaced the stock carb with and Edelbrock 1406.  The electric choke 
seems to be fine and cuts off when the engine warms up.

> 3. Have you rebuilt the carb reciently?  I'm thinking maybe some dirt in 
> the
>     idle jets.
I rebuilt the carb last year, but I will check the jets again.  I did have 
an issue with this in the past.  It was causing one of the adjustments to 
not affect idle.  Currently either seems to be working as intended.

> 4. EGR valve incorrectly starting to open.

After seeing all the carbon deposits in the engine before the rebuild I 
thought this would be the best to remove the EGR.  I had done this to my 
daily driver since it was indicated as a cause of head gasket failure in 
that car.  It is passing emissions with better readings than with the EGR.

> 5. Possibly a vacuum leak?

Vacuum is good.  All hoses replaced recently.

> John

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue Jul 13 22:17:00 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:17:00 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
	<004a01cb22fc$bef87cd0$1400a8c0@editing>
Message-ID: <015BA439E9034A07A0C146C718DCFF28@greg>

Larry,.

Thanks.  I will see if I can check this out easily.  I had rebuilt the carb 
last year and everything was in spec then.

Greg 0036 

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Wed Jul 14 07:20:19 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:20:19 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] automotive Lift
Message-ID: <839D42721278407DA08FED0500DB77FB@work>

while bendpack and kwick lift make great hoists I bought a direct lift 4 post
from a local supplier. The hydraulics were us made but the steel was all
chinese. they are fine for home use but I wouldn't want to use it daily to
make a living on. It came with 3 drip trays and a jack tray. I bought a couple
of air jacks that needed rebuilding and rebuilt them, so I can do what ever I
want, I do use  it mostly for extra parking. It is relatively easy to install
,I did it by myself, there are some heavy parts but you can do it with a
cherry picker by your self or enlist a couple of friends when you need to do
the heavy lifting. It took me 8-10 hours to install mine spread over a few
days. mine also came with a wheel set so I can move it anywhere I want, never
used them but I will at least once when I reorganize the back shop and add
another lift.

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed Jul 14 16:39:57 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 18:39:57 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
In-Reply-To: <004a01cb22fc$bef87cd0$1400a8c0@editing>
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg>
	<004a01cb22fc$bef87cd0$1400a8c0@editing>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100714182442.04467318@cox.net>

At 10:32 PM 7/13/2010, Larry Ankeny wrote:

 >You described the very problem I had one time.  Turned out to be a 
stuck float
 >in the carb. At idle, I wasn't burning gas fast enough to keep the 
fuel bowl in
 >the carb from overfilling to the point it would overflow and 
trickle into the
 >pistons.  Making it run rough and sometimes kill the engine.

Greg,

Larry has a point here.  Or you needle valve may be sticking.  This 
can be due to crud getting
into the carb.  Do you have a fuel filter?

Speaking of fuel filters, if anyone is thinking about installing a 
fuel filter on their car, I strongly
advise against using the plastic filters you can buy at most of the 
aftermarket car parts places.
I'd suggest getting one of the metal ones.  That way you don't have 
to worry it melting and pouring fuel all over a hot 
engine,  spelled:    F I R E!!!.

Or you can still get the metal ones with the removable glass bowels from
Restoration Supply Company
15182B Highland Valley Road
Escondido, CA 92025
(800) 306-7008
www.RestorationStuff.com

Sediment Bowl with Filter -  Die cast body with glass bowl - and filter.
1/8" FNPT inlet & outlet    ACC147 $34.00

On page 15 of their catalog, downloadable 
at:  http://www.restorationstuff.com/RSC28.pdf


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Wed Jul 14 19:53:05 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 20:53:05 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: <DD768FC37C6D43A292A1E162966C6FE6@greg><004a01cb22fc$bef87cd0$1400a8c0@editing>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20100714182442.04467318@cox.net>
Message-ID: <866070887BAE401BB8868043495CB2B3@greg>

John,

I had recently replaced mine, but there was an issue.  The small hoses they 
provided seemed to be plastic instead of rubber.  A few days after getting 
back from Lexington I opened the hood and gas was leaking from those hoses 
onto the valve cover and headers.  So I would recomended checking the ones 
that come with the filter to make sure they are rubber.  I am just glad I 
caught it before heading down the road.

Greg 0036
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>
To: <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Idling question


> At 10:32 PM 7/13/2010, Larry Ankeny wrote:
>
> >You described the very problem I had one time.  Turned out to be a
> stuck float
> >in the carb. At idle, I wasn't burning gas fast enough to keep the
> fuel bowl in
> >the carb from overfilling to the point it would overflow and
> trickle into the
> >pistons.  Making it run rough and sometimes kill the engine.
>
> Greg,
>
> Larry has a point here.  Or you needle valve may be sticking.  This
> can be due to crud getting
> into the carb.  Do you have a fuel filter?
>
> Speaking of fuel filters, if anyone is thinking about installing a
> fuel filter on their car, I strongly
> advise against using the plastic filters you can buy at most of the
> aftermarket car parts places.
> I'd suggest getting one of the metal ones.  That way you don't have
> to worry it melting and pouring fuel all over a hot
> engine,  spelled:    F I R E!!!.
>
> Or you can still get the metal ones with the removable glass bowels from
> Restoration Supply Company
> 15182B Highland Valley Road
> Escondido, CA 92025
> (800) 306-7008
> www.RestorationStuff.com
>
> Sediment Bowl with Filter -  Die cast body with glass bowl - and filter.
> 1/8" FNPT inlet & outlet    ACC147 $34.00
>
> On page 15 of their catalog, downloadable
> at:  http://www.restorationstuff.com/RSC28.pdf
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gschroeder at comcast.net

From irwin.aronson at gmail.com  Wed Jul 14 20:50:15 2010
From: irwin.aronson at gmail.com (Irwin W. Aronson)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 22:50:15 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] No. 2212 is for sale
Message-ID: <FB41DB9A-3485-4CE2-BAAE-DDB76CFCC7DA@gmail.com>

I have decided to sell # 2212...a 1975 Safety White Bricklin with a little
over 5000 original miles. I am the second owner of this car. It was totally
"Tannerized" about 12 or so years ago. And, it has since been kept in my
heated and air conditioned garage in Pennsylvania. It's a great car with
everything working except the clock, which is right twice a day. It has some
minor crazing on some of the body panels. It is a great driver and needs
nothing to enjoy from day one. I'll entertain all reasonable offers.

I am advertising it here for a short time among the group. If it does not move
quickly I'll put it up on ebay, Craig's list, etc. for sale to a broader
audience...I hate to part with it but the time has come.


Please contact me via email at:

From pugsracer at comcast.net  Thu Jul 15 11:35:27 2010
From: pugsracer at comcast.net (pugsracer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:35:27 +0000
Subject: [Bricklin] automotive Lift
Message-ID: <1902558541-1279215320-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-117918725-@bda2634.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I bought a 4 post from Revolution. Very solid lift. Used a forklift to help move pieces around. Got it through a friend at a equipment dealer. Can go online as well pugs 756
------Original Message------
From: Rick at High Tech Coatings
Sender: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net
To: bl
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] automotive Lift
Sent: Jul 14, 2010 7:20 AM

while bendpack and kwick lift make great hoists I bought a direct lift 4 post
from a local supplier. The hydraulics were us made but the steel was all
chinese. they are fine for home use but I wouldn't want to use it daily to
make a living on. It came with 3 drip trays and a jack tray. I bought a couple
of air jacks that needed rebuilding and rebuilt them, so I can do what ever I
want, I do use  it mostly for extra parking. It is relatively easy to install
,I did it by myself, there are some heavy parts but you can do it with a
cherry picker by your self or enlist a couple of friends when you need to do
the heavy lifting. It took me 8-10 hours to install mine spread over a few
days. mine also came with a wheel set so I can move it anywhere I want, never
used them but I will at least once when I reorganize the back shop and add
another lift.
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/pugsracer at comcast.net



Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Thu Jul 15 16:58:16 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 18:58:16 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin parts
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100715185748.045573c0@cox.net>

>X-VR-Score: -240.00
>X-Authority-Analysis: v=1.1 cv=FgUwDQUAKOCz1u4eAyJVfWxCjHdxchz0pGkmxJMgwjw=
>  c=1 sm=1 a=wbKXeunVgZ0A:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=k8sv3X9M5i4LHEPy8EEy7w==:17
>  a=fHHU59lyrG7-JKs7zGcA:9 a=xyP2EtrhwI5z_LXbSp3C2kh5ls0A:4 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10
>  a=Mt2Pq5bc74QA:10 a=ZGe7aQARpjMA:10 a=6pDWXPRwu4tvJTiZ:21
>  a=soXHfQX_XJmVqDnb:21 a=k8sv3X9M5i4LHEPy8EEy7w==:117
>X-CM-Score: 0.00
>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:37:08 -0400
>From: "S. G. Schiro" <gschiro at localdialup.com>
>User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 6.1; en-US; 
>rv:1.9.1.10) Gecko/20100512 Lightning/1.0b1 Thunderbird/3.0.5
>To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>
>Subject: Re: [Bricklin] what problems
>X-AntiAbuse: This header was added to track abuse, please include it 
>with any abuse report
>X-AntiAbuse: Primary Hostname - consul.websitewelcome.com
>X-AntiAbuse: Original Domain - cox.net
>X-AntiAbuse: Originator/Caller UID/GID - [47 12] / [47 12]
>X-AntiAbuse: Sender Address Domain - localdialup.com
>X-Antivirus: avast! (VPS 100715-1, 07/15/2010), Inbound message
>X-Antivirus-Status: Clean
>
>Hi,
>
>I also have shocks for the front and back, a new pinion gear for the 
>AMC 20 with, I think, a 3.15 to 1 ratio, a set of new ball joints 
>for the front suspension and a GM steering column.
>
>John -  I think this email only went to you.  Please resend to the forum.
>
>Thanks
>
>
>
>On 7/15/2010 12:55 PM, S. G. Schiro wrote:
>>Hi Folks,
>>
>>I am moving to England and my Bricklin isn't coming.  I sold the 
>>car (#678 which was completely dismantled) to Terry Tanner but he 
>>didn't want the body panels, including two hoods and two 
>>bumpers.  If anyone wants them, they are yours for free as long as 
>>you pick them up.  I had them sandblaster to remove the acrylic and 
>>then painted with epoxy primer.  No cracks and they look good.   I 
>>also have a new Bricklin heater box, a set of whiskers for the door 
>>glass, a set of the small quarter window glass and a new 
>>replacement door solenoid.  I might also have a few other odds and ends.
>>
>>Here is the deal.  You have to pick the stuff up at my home in 
>>Tecumseh, Michigan by this Sunday (07-18-2010) at the latest.
>>Otherwise they go into the dumpster.  If you want to see pictures 
>>of the panels, let me know and I will email them to you.  Please 
>>fell free to pass this information on to anyone who might be interested.
>>
>>My address is:
>>
>>125 Park Street
>>Tecumseh, mi 49286
>>tel  517-423-5961
>>cell 517-918-0842
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>George Schiro

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From bricklin0095 at aol.com  Thu Jul 15 21:13:19 2010
From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 23:13:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
In-Reply-To: 29530202
References: 29530202
Message-ID: <8CCF2ABF9662104-22A8-5FE7@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

I use the same carb on my 360 also. I would think your problem lies in one of
two areas. Either your running out of?gas or getting too much..
I use stainless braided line between the engine mounted fuel pump and the
carb. This line insulates much better than the normal all steel or all rubber
hose.. No part of the hose should touch any part of the engine.. I.E. Don't
let it rest on the valve covers. This can cause vapor lock..
Also are you running the stock charcoal cannister. The gas cap on the brick is
not vented and if you removed the charcoal cannister and plugged the hoses you
now have no way for the tank to vent, this will make it hard for your fuel
pump to "suck" out gas.
The edelbrock carbs do not like high fuel pressure.. I use a mechanical high
volume carter pump with no? regulator..If you have an electric pump it is
probably putting too high a pressure and flooding the engine.
The AFB style carbs also have had problems with the floats being set too high
out of the box.. I believe the manual calls for 7/16 inch float drop..
?




-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder &lt;gschroeder at comcast.net&gt;
To: Larry Ankeny &lt;lvphotogroup at cox.net&gt;; Bricklin
&lt;Bricklin at autox.team.net&gt;
Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2010 12:47 am
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Idling question




Larry,.

Thanks.  I will see if I can check this out easily.  I had rebuilt the carb
last year and everything was in spec then.

Greg 0036
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
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From gschroeder at comcast.net  Thu Jul 15 23:09:26 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 00:09:26 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: 29530202 <8CCF2ABF9662104-22A8-5FE7@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6C1F39A8CFDD49599349C6985C6906FB@greg>

I was thinking about going to a stainless braided line since I would like to
have something that is better than the standard rubber hose.  I checked the
temps of the gas line, carb and intake.  The carb was around 156.  The intake
was at 115   The gas line was around 120.  I actually have the gas line
resting on top of the PCV hose to the front of the carb.  I have a new
mechanical fuel pump from the engine rebuild.  I had reset the carb floats to
spec from the rebuild kit.

I still have the original charcoal caniste and a new gas cap.  There is a lot
of vacuum at the gas cap.  After driving for several hours coming back from
Lexington I walked behind the car and I could hear the air being sucked in
around the cap.  Should I be concerned with this?

I am starting to lean towards the vacuum advance. The distributor is one thing
I have not replaced since the engine rebuild. I reset the timing yesterday by
vacuum with the vacuum advance disconnected and the hose attached to a vacuum
gage.  I set the timing based on the most consistent vacuum instead of the
highest vacuum as I had done before.  The car starts quickly cold or hot and I
was able to idle with the AC on and in drive for over 3 minutes before the
slightest hiccup in the idle.  I have read several articles on the internet
about the vacuum advance and smooth idle.  Below is a list of vacuum advance
benefits.

          1) Improved idle cooling
          2) Improved idle quality
          3) Improved fuel economy
          4) Improved throttle response
          5) Improved drivability
          6) Enables improved spark knock control under full throttle
accelerations
          7) Enables leaner fuel jetting at light load to further improve fuel
economy.

Since I have not replaced this it could not be functioning at it's optimum
causing this issue.  Would this be going the wrong direction?

Greg 0036



  ----- Original Message -----
  From: bricklin0095 at aol.com
  To: gschroeder at comcast.net ; lvphotogroup at cox.net ; Bricklin at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 10:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Idling question


  I use the same carb on my 360 also. I would think your problem lies in one
of two areas. Either your running out of gas or getting too much..
  I use stainless braided line between the engine mounted fuel pump and the
carb. This line insulates much better than the normal all steel or all rubber
hose.. No part of the hose should touch any part of the engine.. I.E. Don't
let it rest on the valve covers. This can cause vapor lock..
  Also are you running the stock charcoal cannister. The gas cap on the brick
is not vented and if you removed the charcoal cannister and plugged the hoses
you now have no way for the tank to vent, this will make it hard for your fuel
pump to "suck" out gas.
  The edelbrock carbs do not like high fuel pressure.. I use a mechanical high
volume carter pump with no  regulator..If you have an electric pump it is
probably putting too high a pressure and flooding the engine.
  The AFB style carbs also have had problems with the floats being set too
high out of the box.. I believe the manual calls for 7/16 inch float drop..





  -----Original Message-----
  From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
  To: Larry Ankeny <lvphotogroup at cox.net>; Bricklin <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2010 12:47 am
  Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Idling question






Larry,.

Thanks.  I will see if I can check this out easily.  I had rebuilt the carb
last year and everything was in spec then.

Greg 0036
_______________________________________________
Bricklin at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Fri Jul 16 09:31:38 2010
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:31:38 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
Message-ID: <E216B2F39CE247C792084239D932BFDB@work>

to check the vacuum advance just pull the hose off and suck on it, if it moves
the point plate and holds a vacuum then it is OK if not it isn't, of course
you can use a vacuum pump if you don't want to use your lips LOL. vacuum
advance should not be active at idle, the port for it is above the blade at
idle



On 7/16/2010 1:09:26 AM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote:

>
> I am starting to lean towards the vacuum advance. The distributor is one
> thing
> I have not replaced since the engine rebuild. I reset the timing yesterday
> by
> vacuum with the vacuum advance disconnected and the hose attached to a
> vacuum
> gage.  I set the timing based on the most consistent vacuum instead of
> the
> highest vacuum as I had done before.  The car start

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Fri Jul 16 10:40:57 2010
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Idling question
References: <E216B2F39CE247C792084239D932BFDB@work>
Message-ID: <72AFBD46B5DC40D1A21319FAB02DC674@greg>

Rick,

Thanks.  I checked it for holding vacuum, but not that the point plate 
moving also. Vacuum itself was OK.  I was thinking that it may be getting 
stuck after running for a while causing the idling issue.

Greg 0036 

From rickforfar at gmail.com  Sun Jul 18 08:38:57 2010
From: rickforfar at gmail.com (Rick Forfar)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 09:38:57 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] Door will not open using switch alone
Message-ID: <AANLkTinonXZkpl3JBRsn2CvuqBZ0pxiE49gt2-lLlAo_@mail.gmail.com>

Drivers side door:



Door will not open using switch.  However, by pulling the safety latch and
pressing the switch inside at the same time the door will open.  In
addition, the door will also open by pulling the safety latch and pressing
the switch on the outside of the car.

I have checked that the solenoid is pulling properly by closing the latch
with the door up with a screwdriver, the latch will release perfectly every
time.  So, I am confused why when I close the door and press the switch to
go up (and hear the latch release) why does the door not go up?



Passenger side door:



Door will no longer go up or down via air cylinder (just by manually lifting
or slowly dropping back down).  When I was in the process of fixing the
solenoid and safety latch setup in the passenger side door somehow the air
stopped working.  If I press the switch inside or outside the car you can
hear and see the safety latch releasing but no signal is being sent to open
or close the door.  Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,

Rick

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Jul 18 13:54:20 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 15:54:20 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Door will not open using switch alone
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinonXZkpl3JBRsn2CvuqBZ0pxiE49gt2-lLlAo_@mail.gmail.c om>
References: <AANLkTinonXZkpl3JBRsn2CvuqBZ0pxiE49gt2-lLlAo_@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100718154215.0459ad68@cox.net>

At 10:38 AM 7/18/2010, Rick Forfar wrote:

 >Drivers side door:
 >
 >Door will not open using switch.  However, by pulling the safety 
latch and pressing the switch inside at the
 >same time the door will open.  In addition, the door will also open 
by pulling the safety latch and pressing
 >the switch on the outside of the car.

 >I have checked that the solenoid is pulling properly by closing the 
latch with the door up with a screwdriver,
 >the latch will release perfectly every time.  So, I am confused why 
when I close the door and press the switch
 >to go up (and hear the latch release) why does the door not go up?

Rick,

While you test is a good attempt, it's not a good simulation.  The 
Screwdriver doesn't present any resistance to
the latch.  But when the door is closed, there is pressure placed on 
the latch, from the seals (if nothing else)
other wise the door would rattle.  It's possible that the wire 
between the roof and the door which handles the
current for the solenoid, has enough strands broken that it can't 
handle enough current to fire the solenoid with
the resistance.

 >Passenger side door:
 >
 >Door will no longer go up or down via air cylinder (just by 
manually lifting or slowly dropping back down).
 >When I was in the process of fixing the solenoid and safety latch 
setup in the passenger side door somehow
 >the air stopped working.  If I press the switch inside or outside 
the car you can hear and see the safety latch
 >releasing but no signal is being sent to open or close the door.  Any ideas?

This sounds like the wire that controls the signal to the air 
distribution board is not getting to the solenoid.
Possible causes are a bad switch, wire has come off the switch, 
broken wire between the switch and the
solenoid.

Since you say the door will not go up or down, then the only thing 
common to both is the power supplied to
the switches.

We have done many articles in The Brickline on the subject, including 
wiring diags.


John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed Jul 28 12:57:59 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:57:59 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Golden Quill Award
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100728145431.044bd898@cox.net>

Gang,

To all those that have contributed articles since 2001, give yourself a pat on
the back.

We just received Old Car's Weekly's Golden Quill Award for 2009, which makes
9 streight year!!!!!

There are only a hand full of publications that have received the award this
many times in a row.  They are usually the big ones, with a professional
group publishing the magazine, like AACA, etc.

So to all that contributed last year - CONGRADULATIONS - and THANKS!!!!!

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ        email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
1133 Chatmoss Dr.
Va. Beach, Va                Phone:  (757) 495-8229

Bricklin International VP Publications
Editor/Publisher The Brickline
Quarterly Magazine of Bricklin International

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org