From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 01:39:24 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 02:39:24 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401083924.7A6582E022@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those first faintly glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From isensee at aol.com Thu Apr 1 11:38:04 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:38:04 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Gullwing bus Message-ID: <8CC9FE199B82D17-2230-7CA0@webmail-d050.sysops.aol.com> If Bricklin was still in business and branched out to make buses, I suppose this is what they would look like. http://tinyurl.com/yzngulq Scott From Maycinc at cs.com Mon Apr 5 20:32:14 2010 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:32:14 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] #1343 Message-ID: <62ec6.15db5e82.38ebf72e@cs.com> I receieved the latest Brickline today and noticed that it still has #1343 listed as for sale. Just to let everyone know that I sold it last November. Marvin From breton48 at live.com Tue Apr 6 07:53:27 2010 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 07:53:27 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] White 1975 Bricklin for sale Message-ID: Folks, I bought a Corvette as my new toy, so the Bricklin just sits in the garage and has to go. I advertised it here a few weeks ago, and here it is again, at a reduced price. White 1975 Bricklin SV1 #2121 for sale - 81,000 miles, two owners (same family) - $8,500. Car is in the Black Forest near Colorado Springs. Full history since new - first owner (my father in law) bought the car from dealer in Midland, Texas, registered it in So Cal, and drove it 79,000 miles in ten years. After several failures of the hydraulic door opening system, the car sat in his So Cal garage from Spring 1985 till August 2007, when I acquired it. I had the car worked on in a Riverside (CA) shop, and moved shortly after getting the car back (in Spring 2008) to Colorado. I have the following documents from the original owner: sale documents from Texas, various bills including installation of a new engine in 1979, two workshop manuals, and the owner's manual with notes regarding maintenance done from new till the car was put in storage in 1985. I also have a folder with the wiring diagrams. Body is straight and frame has no rust. I have the receipts for all the work done since 2007. Car has a clear Colorado title, and I have a copy of the original California title. The bad: Ammeter not working (I have a spare to install) - I am using a battery monitor plugged in an electrical outlet (added under passenger dash in 2008) Door wiring on passenger door needs replacing (solenoid clicking when opening) Fuel sender unit (in gas tank) not working Driver door's skin coming loose (I have the adhesive to fix that) Outside door switches do not work Wheels need two new center caps (two good ones, one cracked, one missing) The good: In 2007 and 2008: Engine/accessories work done: new freeze plugs, new water pump, new timing cover, new timing chain kit, new timing cover and valve cover gasket sets, new intake and exhaust manifold gasket sets, new oil pan gasket set, new high flow oil pump, new thermostat, new water pump outlet with gasket, new main crankshaft bearing set, new rod bearings set, carburetor rebuild kit, new carburetor float, new rear main seal, new fuel pump, new heater core, new air conditioning compressor (high output), new A/C high pressure hose, rebuild receiver drier, ducting for air conditioning redone to line up properly, new heavy duty blower motor with fan. Cylinder heads reconditioned, including: machining of heads and valves, new gasket set, new hardened push rods, valve seats recut and hardened, new thermal vacuum switches, new spark plugs. Recored heavy duty radiator, 16" electric pusher fan with fan relay, all new water hoses and fan belt. Inside trim replaced, including recovering the seats, with original materials. New air door system with two remotes, new wiring for driver's door, windows reglued and regulators repaired, new door switches. Brakes: new master cylinder, new front brake hoses, new rear wheels bearings/brake cylinders/adjusters/hoses. New radio and speakers (I kept the original radio). Four new tires (Dunlop GT Qualifiers P265/60R15), and donut spare wheel with new tire and cover matching the interior carpeting. In 2009: New brake power booster, new front brake pad, new suspension bushings and KYB shocks, new pitman arm, new upper and lower ball joints. Fuel tank cleaned and lined, new rubber fuel lines. New gel cell battery. New windshield washer bottle and pump. All fluids (oil, water, transmission, brakes) and filters (fuel, air, oil) have been changed at least once since 2008. If interested, please contact me by email. Will send photos upon request. JLC From cutright at eoni.com Tue Apr 6 11:32:05 2010 From: cutright at eoni.com (cutright at eoni.com) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:32:05 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] AC evaporator and expansion valve Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20100406102813.01602c10@pop3.eoni.com> Hello Guys, I need to get to my AC expansion evaporator valve. From what I can tell it is inside the heater box. Is this correct? Also is there and easy way to get to it? etc. etc. etc. Merv Cutright 1349, 2009, 68 Mustang convertible From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Apr 6 13:07:09 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 15:07:09 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] AC evaporator and expansion valve In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20100406102813.01602c10@pop3.eoni.com> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20100406102813.01602c10@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100406150150.04542088@cox.net> At 01:32 PM 4/6/2010, cutright at eoni.com wrote: >Hello Guys, I need to get to my AC expansion evaporator valve. From what I >can tell it is inside the heater box. Is this correct? Also is there and easy way to >get to it? etc. etc. etc. Merv, The expansion valve is located outside the heater/evap boxes, under the dash on the left side of the evap. box. The easiest way to get to it, is to at least remove the top dash pad (crash pad). But to do that, you'll probably have to remove the inst. cluster. For some help in this area, you might want to read the article on our web site: http://bricklin.org/TechCentral/TCArticle005.htm One suggestion, if you are going to open the A/C system, I suggest that you replace all the hoses. You probably should think about replacing the condenser, evaporator, and dryer also. These parts are going on 40 yrs old. To go through the hassle of trying to replace 1 part only to have a hose fail, then to have the xx fail, etc gets very expensive. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From rick at hightechcoatings.com Tue Apr 6 13:12:43 2010 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 15:12:43 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] AC evaporator and expansion valve Message-ID: <848C0CB45F7D4F6587E1EA56AFF07921@work> I believe the answer to both questions is NO, If my memory serves me right it is wrapped up in black foam insulation and just to the left of the evap box, the only easy way I know to get to it is to remove the dash pad On 4/6/2010 1:32:05 PM, cutright at eoni.com wrote: > Hello Guys, I need to get to my AC expansion evaporator valve. From what I > > can tell it is inside the heater box. Is this correct? Also is there and > easy way to get to it? etc. etc. etc. Merv Cutright 1349, 2009, 68 > Mustang convertible From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 13:13:43 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 14:13:43 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AC evaporator and expansion valve References: <5.1.0.14.0.20100406102813.01602c10@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: <78BD6EAF9C114D8B82BCF1E18C6C164B@greg> The expansion valve is behind the instrument panel on the 74, I do not believe it moved with the engine change. Here are some photos at this link. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Behind%20the%20Dash/?start=all Greg 0036 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 12:32 PM Subject: [Bricklin] AC evaporator and expansion valve > Hello Guys, I need to get to my AC expansion evaporator valve. From what I > can tell it is inside the heater box. Is this correct? Also is there and > easy way to get to it? etc. etc. etc. Merv Cutright 1349, 2009, 68 > Mustang convertible > _______________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gschroeder at comcast.net From cutright at eoni.com Tue Apr 6 16:52:49 2010 From: cutright at eoni.com (cutright at eoni.com) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 15:52:49 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] AC repairs Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20100406155045.01509308@pop3.eoni.com> Thanks Guys, That was the information I needed. This is such a great resource for all of us with special cars. Merv Cutright 1349, 2009, 68 mustang From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 12 10:53:24 2010 From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 09:53:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] window regulator rollers Message-ID: <150757.32192.qm@web57406.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Hi, I am looking for the rollers inside the window regulator because mine have worn out and will not roll freely anymore. Does anyone know where I can get these or a car that has compatible equipment that I can change them out with...any input or suggestions? Thank you! Randy #1045 Yucca Valley, CA From isensee at aol.com Sun Apr 18 16:02:41 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:02:41 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting Message-ID: <8CCAD5A0000E60E-1C38-1DA20@webmail-d019.sysops.aol.com> For several years, the fuel gauge on my '75 Bricklin read incorrectly. It would read about 1/2 tank when the tank was full and go to empty long before the tank was empty. At random points in between, it would drop to empty but then come back up again. Recently, the gauge started reading empty all the time. This seemed like classic signs of a bad sender unit so I replaced that. Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem, the gauge still reads empty all the time. So, to troubleshoot this, I pulled off the connector at the back of the gauge. The gauge then went to full. When I jumper this connector on the back of the gauge to ground, it goes to empty. Putting a variable resister from the gauge to ground, it always reads empty. So it seems like the gauge is not responding to resistance as it should. Does this indicate a problem with the gauge? Any suggestions what else the problem may be and how to troubleshoot it any more? Scott From gmalaska at hotmail.com Sun Apr 18 19:49:53 2010 From: gmalaska at hotmail.com (George Malaska) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 21:49:53 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting In-Reply-To: <8CCAD5A0000E60E-1C38-1DA20@webmail-d019.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCAD5A0000E60E-1C38-1DA20@webmail-d019.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Scott, have you checked the ground on your sending unit? Clean it where it goes to the frame. Sometimes even this is not enough. Try running a ground from the battery direct or at least from another spot on the frame. I have found this to be the problem on a few cars. I have even gone so far as to install another ground from the pipe on the sending unit to the frame. I use a mini clamp to secure the wire to the pipe and then find a clean spot on the frame for the other end. Hope this helps. George. ----- Original Message ----- From: isensee at aol.com To: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:02 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting For several years, the fuel gauge on my '75 Bricklin read incorrectly. It would read about 1/2 tank when the tank was full and go to empty long before the tank was empty. At random points in between, it would drop to empty but then come back up again. Recently, the gauge started reading empty all the time. This seemed like classic signs of a bad sender unit so I replaced that. Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem, the gauge still reads empty all the time. So, to troubleshoot this, I pulled off the connector at the back of the gauge. The gauge then went to full. When I jumper this connector on the back of the gauge to ground, it goes to empty. Putting a variable resister from the gauge to ground, it always reads empty. So it seems like the gauge is not responding to resistance as it should. Does this indicate a problem with the gauge? Any suggestions what else the problem may be and how to troubleshoot it any more? Scott _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gmalaska at hotmail.com From isensee at aol.com Mon Apr 19 06:21:06 2010 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:21:06 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting In-Reply-To: References: <8CCAD5A0000E60E-1C38-1DA20@webmail-d019.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CCADD1EBE04C38-1234-1231@webmail-m077.sysops.aol.com> Thanks, George. Yes, I did try running a fresh ground wire to the sender. No luck. I found some troubleshooting info on the web that said, if you ground the input lead on the gauge and the gauge swings to reading full them the gauge is good. It said, if the gauge fails, it either fails short or open so being able to get both an empty and a full reading on it means it is working. The fact I can't get it to respond anywhere in between even hooking an old sender unit up directly to the gauge though makes me wonder though. Scott -----Original Message----- From: George Malaska To: bricklin at autox.team.net; isensee at aol.com Sent: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 8:49 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting Scott, have you checked the ground on your sending unit? Clean it where it goes to the frame. Sometimes even this is not enough. Try running a ground from the battery direct or at least from another spot on the frame. I have found this to be the problem on a few cars. I have even gone so far as to install another ground from the pipe on the sending unit to the frame. I use a mini clamp to secure the wire to the pipe and then find a clean spot on the frame for the other end. Hope this helps. George. ----- Original Message ----- From: isensee at aol.com To: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:02 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting For several years, the fuel gauge on my '75 Bricklin read incorrectly. It would read about 1/2 tank when the tank was full and go to empty long before the tank was empty. At random points in between, it would drop to empty but then come back up again. Recently, the gauge started reading empty all the time. This seemed like classic signs of a bad sender unit so I replaced that. Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem, the gauge still reads empty all the time. So, to troubleshoot this, I pulled off the connector at the back of the gauge. The gauge then went to full. When I jumper this connector on the back of the gauge to ground, it goes to empty. Putting a variable resister from the gauge to ground, it always reads empty. So it seems like the gauge is not responding to resistance as it should. Does this indicate a problem with the gauge? Any suggestions what else the problem may be and how to troubleshoot it any more? Scott _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gmalaska at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com From bricklin0095 at aol.com Mon Apr 19 16:19:36 2010 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 18:19:36 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting In-Reply-To: <8CCADD1EBE04C38-1234-1231@webmail-m077.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCADD1EBE04C38-1234-1231@webmail-m077.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CCAE2587AE96C4-1FE0-4034@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> After replacing my sender unit a few years ago, it was bouncing a lot and acting unreliable.. I ended up with the guage reading empty even when full.. It turned out that when I transfered the old float to the new sender it got a tiny pinhole in it.. I soldered it up and now it works better.. It does not read like a newer car though... Stays full a long while and quarter tank means empty.. but it is better than when I started. -----Original Message----- From: isensee at aol.com To: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Apr 19, 2010 8:21 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting Thanks, George. Yes, I did try running a fresh ground wire to the sender. No luck. I found some troubleshooting info on the web that said, if you ground the input lead on the gauge and the gauge swings to reading full them the gauge is good. It said, if the gauge fails, it either fails short or open so being able to get both an empty and a full reading on it means it is working. The fact I can't get it to respond anywhere in between even hooking an old sender unit up directly to the gauge though makes me wonder though. Scott -----Original Message----- From: George Malaska <gmalaska at hotmail.com> To: bricklin at autox.team.net; isensee at aol.com Sent: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 8:49 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting Scott, have you checked the ground on your sending unit? Clean it where it goes to the frame. Sometimes even this is not enough. Try running a ground from the battery direct or at least from another spot on the frame. I have found this to be the problem on a few cars. I have even gone so far as to install another ground from the pipe on the sending unit to the frame. I use a mini clamp to secure the wire to the pipe and then find a clean spot on the frame for the other end. Hope this helps. George. ----- Original Message ----- From: isensee at aol.com<mailto:isensee at aol.com> To: bricklin at autox.team.net<mailto:bricklin at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:02 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Fuel gauge troubleshooting For several years, the fuel gauge on my '75 Bricklin read incorrectly. It would read about 1/2 tank when the tank was full and go to empty long before the tank was empty. At random points in between, it would drop to empty but then come back up again. Recently, the gauge started reading empty all the time. This seemed like classic signs of a bad sender unit so I replaced that. Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem, the gauge still reads empty all the time. So, to troubleshoot this, I pulled off the connector at the back of the gauge. The gauge then went to full. When I jumper this connector on the back of the gauge to ground, it goes to empty. Putting a variable resister from the gauge to ground, it always reads empty. So it seems like the gauge is not responding to resistance as it should. Does this indicate a problem with the gauge? Any suggestions what else the problem may be and how to troubleshoot it any more? Scott _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net<mailto:Bricklin at autox.team.net> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html> Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gmalaska at hotmail.com<http:/ /au tox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/gmalaska at hotmail.com> _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/isensee at aol.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/bricklin0095 at aol.com From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 15:24:24 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 16:24:24 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions Message-ID: <3186B439C55B4E6D94104C3BFD155625@greg> I finished redoing the rocker studs with Permatex Red a couple of days ago. I go to start the car and it just cranks. Looks like I am getting fuel and compression, but it does not appear to be getting enough spark. Everything was good a couple of days ago except for some flopping rockers which prompted me to go through all the rocker studs to make sure they were tight and hopefull will stay that way. I am getting 12 volts at the coil, the starter is cranking, I remove the coil wire from the distributor and I can see spark, the distributor is rotating. The pistons are moving. I have swapped the coil wire from another car to see if the level of spark is the same. I have also swappd out to an old coil and it acts the same. I have checked the fuses and they appear to be OK. Battery is fulling charged. Any suggestions? I believe I am past a fusible link issue since the starter is turning the motor over. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Apr 28 16:50:56 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:50:56 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100428185043.047a8e18@cox.net> At 05:24 PM 4/28/2010, you wrote: >I finished redoing the rocker studs with Permatex Red a couple of days ago. I >go to start the car and it just cranks. Looks like I am getting fuel and >compression, but it does not appear to be getting enough spark...... >I am getting 12 volts at the coil, the starter is cranking, I remove the coil wire >from the distributor and I can see spark, the distributor is rotating. The pistons >are moving. I have swapped the coil wire from another car to see if the level >of spark is the same. I have also swappd out to an old coil and it acts the >same. I have checked the fuses and they appear to be OK. Battery is fulling >charged. >Any suggestions? I believe I am past a fusible link issue since the starter >is turning the motor over. Greg, You have a 74, AMC powered, with a distributor and points. I'd pull a spark plug wire off a plug, and hold it near a ground, or plug in an old spark plug and ground the case of the plug and try and start the engine. See if you have any spark at the plug. There are several things it could be: 1. A shorted rotor button, allowing the high voltage from the coil to go to ground through the shaft in the distributor. I've seen this several times, though not on a Bricklin. 2. The points could have slipped, so you aren't getting enough spark. 3. A bad condenser. If you are getting any spark at the high voltage wire from the coil, then the points are not shorted, again I've seen this many time, but usually after someone has changed the points and messed up the job. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Apr 28 16:55:12 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:55:12 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions In-Reply-To: <1B378BE291B8466BB26640DAB2B2DCF8@greg> References: <3186B439C55B4E6D94104C3BFD155625@greg> <6.2.5.6.1.20100428180338.047a90a8@cox.net> <1B378BE291B8466BB26640DAB2B2DCF8@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100428185102.047a8b88@cox.net> At 06:39 PM 4/28/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >I have an electronic ignition under the coil. I had installed a Pertronix a few >years ago. Greg, Ahh yes the old Pertronix. I installed one on my Morgan a couple of years ago. They are nice but expensive compaired to the points and condenser. >Everything as far as the car starting was fine a few days ago. I just expected >to start it like normal again today. I did have a couple of tools drop, while >working on the rocker studs. I did not notice any loose connections or anything >that would have caused the car to not start. Well the Pertronix unit could have failed, although unlikely if it's only a couple of years old. It still could be a bad rotor button. I've had them fail on a running engine before. So they can go anytime. The only other thing I can think of is a crack in the dist. cap and humidity. If it's been rainy where you live, the spark could be shorting out in the dist. cap. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From bricklin0095 at aol.com Wed Apr 28 20:16:29 2010 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 22:16:29 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions In-Reply-To: <3186B439C55B4E6D94104C3BFD155625@greg> References: <3186B439C55B4E6D94104C3BFD155625@greg> Message-ID: <8CCB5591D301971-1AB8-4AE1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com> Have you checked the compression with a guage or just think it is o/k. A little tight on the valves will make a huge difference.. You have not mentioned fuel.. Tried dumping an ounce of gas down the carb? Check for spark at the spark plug? Double check plug wires on correctly? Have you checked your pushrods for straightness after the problem with the rockers? Does it backfire or sputter? -----Original Message----- From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net> To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2010 5:24 pm Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions I finished redoing the rocker studs with Permatex Red a couple of days ago. I go to start the car and it just cranks. Looks like I am getting fuel and compression, but it does not appear to be getting enough spark. Everything was good a couple of days ago except for some flopping rockers which prompted me to go through all the rocker studs to make sure they were tight and hopefull will stay that way. I am getting 12 volts at the coil, the starter is cranking, I remove the coil wire from the distributor and I can see spark, the distributor is rotating. The pistons are moving. I have swapped the coil wire from another car to see if the level of spark is the same. I have also swappd out to an old coil and it acts the same. I have checked the fuses and they appear to be OK. Battery is fulling charged. Any suggestions? I believe I am past a fusible link issue since the starter is turning the motor over. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/bricklin0095 at aol.com From breton48 at live.com Wed Apr 28 21:44:53 2010 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 21:44:53 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Two wires for door wiring replacement? In-Reply-To: <8CCB5591D301971-1AB8-4AE1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com> References: <3186B439C55B4E6D94104C3BFD155625@greg> <8CCB5591D301971-1AB8-4AE1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Hi... I need to replace the door wiring on the passenger side of my 1975 Bricklin - the wire is frayed and when opening the door, the solenoid keeps clicking. The driver side was rewired in 2008, and with two wires. Before I start on this project, has anyone done this before, with the two wires? If this has been covered before in the club magazine, please give me the volume and issue number. Thanks. JLC #2121 From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 21:45:26 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 22:45:26 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions References: <3186B439C55B4E6D94104C3BFD155625@greg> <8CCB5591D301971-1AB8-4AE1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <92AF6AAD794F47DBA4F90B608D74E66F@greg> Well I just got a backfire. Which would make me believe the timing may be off. Seems like I had a similar problem after my engine rebuild and it seemed the firing was at the opposite point of where it should have been. I am not sure why this would occur since I had not removed the rotor or the plug wires. I did notice my brake warning light was coming on when trying to start the car. I am not sure if that is an issue, since I had not been paying attention to those lights when starting the car and I do not drive it that often. I did get a new coil wire just to check and I am seeing spark from the wire to a ground. I went ahead and replaced the distributor since I had to go back to my old one a few months ago when the ball at the coil wire fell out. So I needed to replace that anyway. I tried to purchase a rotor cap, but the two parts stores were showing stock, but could not locate them. I may have to try another store tomorrow. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 23:51:34 2010 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 00:51:34 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions Message-ID: <1C8A130D8F68478A9784DCF985E57667@greg> OK, looks like I have found the problem. It seems that I had tightened the rockers just a little bit to much this time. I had used the same method several times while trying to fight the issue with the correct thread sealent and rocker studs coming loose. I must have gotten away with it the other times. I was getting some compression, but nothing like when I back the nut of the rocker 1/8 of a turn. This allowed me to get it started. I will have to mess with the timing some time later. I had replaced the distributor and rotor button (cap) and it did not seem to affect anything. So I decided to go back to watch the rockers as it started to make sure they were still moving. They seemed to be moving and lubricating fine. I decided to check the compression and it just did not seem to be enough. (A time I wish I had a gauge.) So I deicided to back the nut off the number one cylinder 1/8 of a turn and check it again. I could definitely tell a difference on the intake and compression stroke. I went back through and did the same to the rest of the rockers, replaced the number one plug and it almost started. After moving the distributor it ran for a little while. Since I had some vacuum hose removed to remove the valve covers I knew it was not going to run smoothly. This forced me to go a couple of things I had put off like the new distributor and cap. Maybe with any luck I can get the timing set more accurate this time. Thanks again for the suggestions. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri Apr 30 05:47:56 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:47:56 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions In-Reply-To: <1C8A130D8F68478A9784DCF985E57667@greg> References: <1C8A130D8F68478A9784DCF985E57667@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100430074633.04545cb0@cox.net> At 01:51 AM 4/30/2010, Greg Schroeder wrote: >OK, looks like I have found the problem. It seems that I had tightened the >rockers just a little bit to much this time. I had used the same method >several times while trying to fight the issue with the correct thread sealent >and rocker studs coming loose. I must have gotten away with it the other >times. I was getting some compression, but nothing like when I back the nut >of the rocker 1/8 of a turn. This allowed me to get it started. I will have >to mess with the timing some time later. Greg, Glad to hear you got her running again!!! I hate that - the last fix caused the problem. :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From lvphotogroup at cox.net Fri Apr 30 15:35:55 2010 From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:35:55 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Message-ID: <001d01cae8ad$2a4128a0$1500a8c0@editing> Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Fri Apr 30 16:06:48 2010 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 22:06:48 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Message-ID: AMC 20. But i have no part number. -----Original Message----- From: Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 5:35 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net From breton48 at live.com Fri Apr 30 16:24:23 2010 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:24:23 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak In-Reply-To: <001d01cae8ad$2a4128a0$1500a8c0@editing> References: <001d01cae8ad$2a4128a0$1500a8c0@editing> Message-ID: The axle is a Dana 20, used in AMC V8 and Jeep vehicles of the time. I assume you could get the info on a Jeep or AMC forum. Hopefully someone can give you the parts # right here. JLC -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 3:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/breton48 at live.com From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Fri Apr 30 17:17:25 2010 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 23:17:25 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Message-ID: A Dana 20 is a transfer case. It's an AMC 20 or sometimes called a Corporate 20. -----Original Message----- From: JLC Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:24 PM To: 'Larry Ankeny', Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak The axle is a Dana 20, used in AMC V8 and Jeep vehicles of the time. I assume you could get the info on a Jeep or AMC forum. Hopefully someone can give you the parts # right here. JLC -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 3:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/breton48 at live.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net From bricklin0095 at aol.com Fri Apr 30 17:57:04 2010 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 19:57:04 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCB6D7F789F105-51D8-EE52@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com> The old seal will have the part no. on it as a last resort..Make sure you check the seal surface on the yoke.. If it is grooved from the old seal you will need a seal repair kit.. This will be a thin metal sleeve.. Heat it up in an oven and it will slide over the yoke giving the new seal a nice smooth sruface to seal on... Also before removing the yoke put a torque wrench on the big nut and see how much torque it takes to turn the rear end. When you put it back together use this figure to ensure the nut goes back on with the correct preload... The tighter you torque the nut the more torque it will take to turn the gears. -----Original Message----- From: D Walker <treefrogno9 at webtv.net> To: JLC <breton48 at live.com>; 'Larry Ankeny' <lvphotogroup at cox.net>; Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 7:17 pm Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak A Dana 20 is a transfer case. It's an AMC 20 or sometimes called a Corporate 20. -----Original Message----- From: JLC Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:24 PM To: 'Larry Ankeny', Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bricklin] rear axle leak The axle is a Dana 20, used in AMC V8 and Jeep vehicles of the time. I assume you could get the info on a Jeep or AMC forum. Hopefully someone can give you the parts # right here. JLC -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 3:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046 _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/breton48 at live.com _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/treefrogno9 at webtv.net _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/bricklin0095 at aol.com From krodgers at nautel.com Fri Apr 30 19:45:16 2010 From: krodgers at nautel.com (Kevin Rodgers) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 21:45:16 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak In-Reply-To: <001d01cae8ad$2a4128a0$1500a8c0@editing> References: <001d01cae8ad$2a4128a0$1500a8c0@editing> Message-ID: <73C9DD5521F9A24A8448B3D5E2725DE107D69D7A@mse12be2.mse12.exchange.ms> Larry I think the part you want is the Pinion Oil Seal (mopar # 1-83504946). In May, 2003 I bought one at the local Chrysler dealership for $15.00. If that number doesn't work try rear axle 1976 - 86 CJ. Regards Kevin Rodgers Vins 2455 & 2824 -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Ankeny Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] rear axle leak Gentlemen, I have a rear axle leak I should deal with. At the end that the driveshaft connects to. I assume there is a seal there. Anyone have a part number or breakdown? What axle does it cross to. thanks a bunch Larry in LV #2046