From gschroeder at comcast.net  Sat May  2 12:41:26 2009
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 13:41:26 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
References: <BAY117-DAV781FD009D578B298E0211FB730@phx.gbl>
	<3F4F668AEC96441F9208C06B7C44D578@greg>
Message-ID: <67CF9FF522BE4A53A48FA67FDDB177D7@greg>

OK, I have all the pistons in and made one full cycle with the engine from 
TDC to TDC.  It is still tight, but at least I can move it.  I appreciate 
all the suggestions and assistance.  I have placed a few photos on my 
photobucket site on the engine rebuild during teardown and after back from 
the machine shop.  I will need to update with some current assembly photos 
when I get past this point.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Engine%20Rebuild/?start=0

Greg 0036 

From gmalaska at hotmail.com  Sat May  2 13:59:56 2009
From: gmalaska at hotmail.com (George Malaska )
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 19:59:56 +0000
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
Message-ID: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl>

Greg, the crank should turn over easily without the rods attached. The rear
main, if it's rope, will create a little drag. Maybe the block needs to be
align bored. The crank didn't get dropped anytime did it? I'd dial indicate it
end to end and see if there is runout in it. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
George.
-----Original Message-----
Date: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:41:48 pm
To:
Bricklin at autox.team.net
From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings

OK, I have all the pistons in and made one
full cycle with the engine from 
TDC to TDC.  It is still tight, but at least
I can move it.  I appreciate 
all the suggestions and assistance.  I have
placed a few photos on my 
photobucket site on the engine rebuild during
teardown and after back from 
the machine shop.  I will need to update with
some current assembly photos 
when I get past this point.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Engine%20Rebuild/?start=0

Greg
0036 
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Bricklin at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin

You are subscribed as
gmalaska at hotmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Sat May  2 14:37:07 2009
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 15:37:07 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>

Without the piston rods attached the crank is really smooth.  After adding 
each piston it got a little tighter.  I went ahead and installed the 
remaining pistons last night and lubricated everything well.  Then tried to 
move the crank today and I was able to move it.  When installing the last 
four pistons I pushed them up and down the cylinder before tightening them 
down.  I believe the new rings just needed to be compressed for a while to 
allow it to move.

Greg 0036


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Malaska " <gmalaska at hotmail.com>
To: ""Greg Schroeder" " <gschroeder at comcast.net>; <Bricklin at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings


Greg, the crank should turn over easily without the rods attached. The rear 
main, if it's rope, will create a little drag. Maybe the block needs to be 
align bored. The crank didn't get dropped anytime did it? I'd dial indicate 
it end to end and see if there is runout in it. Hope this helps. Keep us 
posted.
George.
-----Original Message-----
Date: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:41:48 pm
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net
From: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings

OK, I have all the pistons in and made one full cycle with the engine from
TDC to TDC.  It is still tight, but at least I can move it.  I appreciate
all the suggestions and assistance.  I have placed a few photos on my
photobucket site on the engine rebuild during teardown and after back from
the machine shop.  I will need to update with some current assembly photos
when I get past this point.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Engine%20Rebuild/?start=0

Greg 0036
Bricklin at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin

You are subscribed as gmalaska at hotmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sat May  2 17:41:20 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 19:41:20 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
In-Reply-To: <0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl>
	<0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20090502194011.01d41cf8@cox.net>

At 04:37 PM 5/2/2009, Greg Schroeder wrote:

 >Without the piston rods attached the crank is really smooth.  After 
adding each
 >piston it got a little tighter.  I went ahead and installed the 
remaining pistons
 >last night and lubricated everything well.  Then tried to move the 
crank today
 >and I was able to move it.  When installing the last four pistons I 
pushed them
 >up and down the cylinder before tightening them down.  I believe 
the new rings
 >just needed to be compressed for a while to allow it to move.

Greg,

Glad to hear you're making some progress.  Did you run a ridge reamer and
glaze braker through the cylinders?

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue May  5 12:41:43 2009
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 13:41:43 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl><0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
	<6.2.5.6.0.20090502194011.01d41cf8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <DBB9276820D74F91BC2509E44862A12A@greg>

The machine shop did all the work on the block and heads, so everything was 
done to those.    The engine still seems a little tight I am going to check 
the gap on the rods at the crank and make sure those are OK.  If that frees 
it up some more I am hoping that help.  I also just got a DVD on rebuilding 
small block V-8's that will hopefully give me a little more insight or 
suggestions to wrap this up.  Still have to get the 700R4 ready and still 
have to spray the lizard skin on the firewall and transmission tunnel while 
I have everything out.

Still keep getting sidetracked with other failures with my daily drivers. 
Seems that I just had a head gasket failure on my Toyota Supra and my wife's 
Buick Rendezvous fuel pump has failed again.  Have to keep the daily's 
running.

Greg 0036

> Greg,
>
> Glad to hear you're making some progress.  Did you run a ridge reamer and
> glaze braker through the cylinders?
>
> John

From drgautreau at comcast.net  Tue May  5 13:14:38 2009
From: drgautreau at comcast.net (Dennis Gautreau)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 15:14:38 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
In-Reply-To: <DBB9276820D74F91BC2509E44862A12A@greg>
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl><0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg><6.2.5.6.0.20090502194011.01d41cf8@cox.net>
	<DBB9276820D74F91BC2509E44862A12A@greg>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAGg6riYdCHtAp07rGXJUifPCgAAAEAAAADQn3b9qK1RLtwrkXeFe4CYBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>

Greg,

 

If you haven't all ready done so, get some "plastigauge" and measure the
crankshaft to rod clearance and crank to main cap clearance. 

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plastigage-measure-clearances.html

 

It has to be done dry with no lubrication. You put a small piece of the gage
between the rod cap and crankshaft and tighten the rod cap to the specified
torque. Then remove the cap and measure with the paper gauge to see what
your clearance is. You may have to shave the bearing or even shim it if it's
out of spec. It's very important that you pay attention to the
specifications of the crank to rod, crank to main, end play, and ring end
clearance. It doesn't take much to spin a bearing if all the new parts
aren't installed correctly

 

You should de-burr everything making sure all edges are smooth.

 

If it's a small block Chevy you are playing with, I'm pretty sure there's a
thrust bearing that has to be pre-loaded when the crank goes into the block.

 

Just remember, everything has to be clean, dry and torque'd properly for
measuring. When you assemble, be very generous with the lubricant. Use
engine assy lube as it sticks very well to everything you put it on and will
stay there until it's replaced with oil during startup.

 

If you've already done this, please disregard this email. I didn't mean to
waste your time, just wanted to chime in just in case it's helps. I'm kind
of jumping in half way through the process here by the looks of it.

 

Dennis Gautreau

901

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Schroeder
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 2:42 PM
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net; John T. Blair
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings

 

The machine shop did all the work on the block and heads, so everything was 

done to those.    The engine still seems a little tight I am going to check 

the gap on the rods at the crank and make sure those are OK.  If that frees 

it up some more I am hoping that help.  I also just got a DVD on rebuilding 

small block V-8's that will hopefully give me a little more insight or 

suggestions to wrap this up.  Still have to get the 700R4 ready and still 

have to spray the lizard skin on the firewall and transmission tunnel while 

I have everything out.

 

Still keep getting sidetracked with other failures with my daily drivers. 

Seems that I just had a head gasket failure on my Toyota Supra and my wife's


Buick Rendezvous fuel pump has failed again.  Have to keep the daily's 

running.

 

Greg 0036

 

> Greg,

> 

> Glad to hear you're making some progress.  Did you run a ridge reamer and

> glaze braker through the cylinders?

> 

> John
Bricklin at autox.team.net

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin

 

You are subscribed as drgautreau at comcast.net

 

http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May  6 01:30:37 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed,  6 May 2009 01:30:37 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] Team.Net status
Message-ID: <20090506073037.05BBA2E0B5@bradakis.com>

Yes, there have been problems with the Team.Net mailing
lists, related web pages, FTP stuff and such.  And it ain't
over yet.  It should all be fine by next week, though.

The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with
several other domains and network related services is Qwest.
Saturday, May 2nd, they cut off my network access.  They have
been recieving complaints about "malicious activity" from one
of my servers.  It has happened before.  The first time I
actually spent many hours on the phone over a period of
several days and found out the nature of the "malicious
activity."

Someone too lazy or too stupid to click on the 'unsubscribe'
link for one of the mailing lists was flagging all incoming
Team.Net emails as spam.  Once I finally managed to penetrate
deep into the Qwest support to find someone with more than a
single digit IQ, it took me just a few seconds to remove the
braindead A-hole from the lists to which they subscribed.

It happened again a while back, again I took the time and effort
to finally get to the root of the problem and removed the whining
piece of human debris from the appropriate list.

This time I've had enough.  It is so frustrating to have to
go through their entire little debugging script *every time*
I talk to a new person about it:


Them:  What operating system are you running?

Me:  Unix, FreeBSD 6.2

Them:  No, I mean are you running Vista, XP or Windows 98?

Me:  Like I said, I'm running Unix, FreeBSD 6.2.  I am NOT
     running Windows, just like I told all the other ...



You know, a lot of people who just use computers as a basic
appliance would not understand the details of that conversation,
they have no need to.  But tech support people working for a
major company like Qwest?  How do people that incompetent get
through the first job interview?  Do they have anyone on their
staff who can even *spell* Unix??

At any rate, the problem that Qwest claims I have is still
not resolved, they will most likely once again cut off my
network access soon.  As I said, I've had enough.

On Friday, May 8th I will be changing from Qwest to XMission,
located here in Salt Lake, for Team.Net ISP service.  The
changeover will result in Team.Net services being unavailable
for a few days.  IP addresses, nameserver data, etc. will take
a day or two or so to percolate through the network.

So expect sporadic service over the next few days, but it should
all settle down by early next week.

Thank you for your patience.

mjb.

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Sat May  2 23:23:35 2009
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 00:23:35 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl>
	<0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
	<FBB8F45880224D53AF91DBF1FA51DD35@george10kgtit7>
Message-ID: <CCCBEC962A4F4BF1A70090EA4DB87B99@greg>

George,

I did check them at the top bottom and middle of the cylinder to make sure 
there was clearance.  The first set of rings I purchase the gap was to large 
so from that and the tech reference manual I checked them before 
installation.  The new ones seem to have a higher spring action to them and 
that may be adding to the issue of the tightness.  I plan to check the 
rotation over the next several days to see if it frees up some more.

The engine build date code and color marking on the crank indicates all 
standard rings and bearings which I am using.

Greg 0036



> Greg,
> Did you clearance the end gap of the rings (fit) them to the cyl bore or 
> use them right out of the box?
> Sounds like they are too tight in the bore. If you leave them that way you 
> may brake one or two and at the least gouge the cyl wall at worse jam a 
> piston, bend a rod and "window" the block.
> 127GEORGE!!

From spanepinto at comcast.net  Wed May  6 05:36:58 2009
From: spanepinto at comcast.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 07:36:58 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Team.Net status
References: <20090506073037.05BBA2E0B5@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <343C2C4634D64844A9B1E01529CF998E@panepint3mnzzb>

Mark,
Thanks for dealing with all that frustration!
We appreciate it.

Smoky P

Smoky Panepinto
Perkiomenville, PA

'75 Bricklin original owner
       (#1302 - Suntan)
'63 Lincoln Convertible
        (Black/Maroon/White)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mark J Bradakis
  To: bricklin at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:30 AM
  Subject: [Bricklin] Team.Net status


  Yes, there have been problems with the Team.Net mailing
  lists, related web pages, FTP stuff and such.  And it ain't
  over yet.  It should all be fine by next week, though.

  The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with
  several other domains and network related services is Qwest.
  Saturday, May 2nd, they cut off my network access.  They have
  been recieving complaints about "malicious activity" from one
  of my servers.  It has happened before.  The first time I
  actually spent many hours on the phone over a period of
  several days and found out the nature of the "malicious
  activity."

  Someone too lazy or too stupid to click on the 'unsubscribe'
  link for one of the mailing lists was flagging all incoming
  Team.Net emails as spam.  Once I finally managed to penetrate
  deep into the Qwest support to find someone with more than a
  single digit IQ, it took me just a few seconds to remove the
  braindead A-hole from the lists to which they subscribed.

  It happened again a while back, again I took the time and effort
  to finally get to the root of the problem and removed the whining
  piece of human debris from the appropriate list.

  This time I've had enough.  It is so frustrating to have to
  go through their entire little debugging script *every time*
  I talk to a new person about it:


  Them:  What operating system are you running?

  Me:  Unix, FreeBSD 6.2

  Them:  No, I mean are you running Vista, XP or Windows 98?

  Me:  Like I said, I'm running Unix, FreeBSD 6.2.  I am NOT
       running Windows, just like I told all the other ...



  You know, a lot of people who just use computers as a basic
  appliance would not understand the details of that conversation,
  they have no need to.  But tech support people working for a
  major company like Qwest?  How do people that incompetent get
  through the first job interview?  Do they have anyone on their
  staff who can even *spell* Unix??

  At any rate, the problem that Qwest claims I have is still
  not resolved, they will most likely once again cut off my
  network access soon.  As I said, I've had enough.

  On Friday, May 8th I will be changing from Qwest to XMission,
  located here in Salt Lake, for Team.Net ISP service.  The
  changeover will result in Team.Net services being unavailable
  for a few days.  IP addresses, nameserver data, etc. will take
  a day or two or so to percolate through the network.

  So expect sporadic service over the next few days, but it should
  all settle down by early next week.

  Thank you for your patience.

  mjb.
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Bricklin at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin

  You are subscribed as spanepinto at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From breton48 at live.com  Sat May  9 08:27:09 2009
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 08:27:09 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] 1975 Brake booster and other brake parts
In-Reply-To: <0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl>
	<0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
Message-ID: <COL107-DS24D998FED04A57587D6218AF650@phx.gbl>

Hi... On Thursday afternoon (5/7/2009), I left my 1975 Bricklin at a "Just
Brakes" shop in Colorado Springs for brake work - new booster, new pads, new
hoses, and to have the front calipers rebuilt. The manager told me he could
get all brand new parts from Centrex for Friday (5/8/2009), and that the car
would be finished the same day. Well, I picked up the car at 5 pm yesterday,
so he was true to his word. 

I  asked  the  manager  several  times  if  the brake  booster  was  new.
He  said  yes,  it  was not a rebuild  unit.  I  hope  that  was  true,  as
I  paid  $437  for  that  part!  I believe a rebuilt booster from Cardone is
priced around $120. 


In case that helps someone, here are the Centrex parts numbers for a 1975
Bricklin with the Kelsey Hayes brakes:

CEN 10200850  Disc pads front

CEN 14364009  Calipers rebuild kit LF and RF

CEN 15063058  Hoses LF and RF

CEN 11763002  Disc hardware front

CEN 16080171  Power booster

JLC

PS: The Just Brakes manager also told me he can get the rotors - I asked him
for the part numbers and a price. I should know on Monday or Tuesday.

From efrain_nadal at yahoo.com  Sat May  9 08:30:22 2009
From: efrain_nadal at yahoo.com (Efrain Nadal)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 07:30:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Bricklin] Tech. Question
Message-ID: <968897.46270.qm@web112218.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi team
I was working with my car in a simple task. The battery was dead so I take it
out and recharged, well I least i think so. When I installed back all the
electricals part go on, ebery looks good but when I try to start the engine is
like the battery no have suficient power to do that. But my concern is the
smoke that start to come out from the battery terminals. I thinks that
probably I just need a new battery but i want to know about others
posibilities about the smoke.
 
Thanks
 
Efrain
VIN 2148
_____________________________________________________________________________
_______
!Obtin la mejor experiencia en la web!
Descarga gratis el nuevo
Internet Explorer 8. 
http://downloads.yahoo.com/ieak8/?l=e1

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sat May  9 09:45:08 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 11:45:08 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Tech. Question
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20090509114431.0209d860@cox.net>

At 11:12 AM 5/9/2009, Efrain Nadal wrote:

 >I was working with my car in a simple task. The battery was dead so 
I take it
 >out and recharged, well I least i think so. When I installed back all the
 >electricals part go on, ebery looks good but when I try to start 
the engine is like
 >the battery no have suficient power to do that. But my concern is 
the smoke that
 >start to come out from the battery terminals. I thinks that 
probably I just need a
 >new battery but i want to know about others posibilities about the smoke.

Efrain,

It could be a bad battery.  You'll need to get a voltmeter to 
tell.  Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the positive 
battery terminal, and the negative
lead to the negative battery terminal.  The meter should read about 
12.5V.  Then
have someone try to crank the engine and watch the meter, and see what the
voltage is.  If it's below 9V then you probably have a bad battery.

But loose or dirty connections can cause the leads to smoke.  Because a
loose/dirty connector becomes a resistor.  When you try to start the car, the
starter requires a lot of current.  Which in turn causes any bad 
connection to get
very hot, and can cause the insulation to melt or catch fire.

So check the connections at the battery.  Are they clean and tight?  Also check
the ground connection, under the car.  You might want to undo the connection
and clean the chassis and connector with sandpaper, and then reconnect them.

With the negative lead REMOVED from the battery, you might also want to check
the positive connectors at the starter solenoid.

There is a ground strap in the engine bay that connects the chassis 
and engine to
ground.  You might want to check both ends of that also.

Hope this helps.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From treefrogno9 at webtv.net  Sat May  9 15:52:04 2009
From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 21:52:04 GMT
Subject: [Bricklin] 1975 Brake booster and other brake parts
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV481CB8085594283399046FB650@phx.gbl>

Googled Centrex and no results found. Is this a local parts supplier?  I never heard of it.

From breton48 at live.com  Sat May  9 16:38:07 2009
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 16:38:07 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] 1975 Brake booster and other brake parts
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV481CB8085594283399046FB650@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV481CB8085594283399046FB650@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL107-DS5BEEE87A9C38478CD22B3AF650@phx.gbl>

D Walker wrote: 

Googled Centrex and no results found. Is this a local parts supplier?  I
never heard of it.




------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry - it's Centric, nor Centrex!

Here you go:  http://www.centricparts.com/

JLC

From plz5 at verizon.net  Tue May 12 21:25:00 2009
From: plz5 at verizon.net (zych5)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 20:25:00 -0700
Subject: [Bricklin] selling 1354
Message-ID: <E198FED39F0549B38971128BAAC568E7@linda74fde116c>

Hello group,
    My name is Patrick Zych and i own car 1354.  I have had the car for about
10 years and I am thinking of selling it. The car is in good shape it was my
daily driver for a while now it spends most of its time in the garage.  I
still like the car but think it would be nice to have a garage again.  I used
to belong to the california bricklin owners club.  If  any one is looking for
a car pleases let me know.  The car is insured for 18,000 with american
hobbyist and  I was thinking of asking 12,000  not sure where to start .
thanks Patrick Zych   (626) 429-3294

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed May 13 09:30:44 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 11:30:44 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] AR, OH, NJ, NY, PA, TX friends
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20090513113035.01d57bc0@cox.net>

Looking for something to do?  How about a Free concert?


As you all know JohnC (my oldest son) is in the Army and plays the 
Clarinet with the Army Field Band.

They are gearing up for their Summer Tour.  Below is the latest 
schedule for their tour:

June 27 - 7:30 pm - Latrobe, PA - Greater Latrobe Senior High School 
Auditorium,
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586

June 28 - 2:30 pm - Chautauqua, NY - Chautauqua Amphitheater,
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586

June 29 - 7:00 pm - Dansville, NY - Dansville Senior High School Gymnasium
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586

June 30 - 7:00 pm - Clearfield, PA - Grandstand of Clearfield County 
Fairgrounds,
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586

July 1 - 7:00 pm  - Butler, PA - Butler Area Intermediate High School 
Auditorium,
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586

July 2 - 7:30 pm - New Wilmington, PA - Westminster College Anderson 
Amphitheatre
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586

July 3 - 8:00 pm - Boardman, OH - Boardman Park - Maag Outdoor Theatre,
			For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586 or visit www.boardmanpark.com

July 4 - 8:00 pm - Pittsburgh, PA - Pittsburgh North Shore Water 
Front Park Greatlawn,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586

July 25 -        - Dallas/Waco Area, TX - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
July 26 -        - Georgetown, TX - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
July 27 -        - San Antonio, TX - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
July 28 -        - The Woodlands, TX - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
July 29 -        - Tyler/Longview, TX - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
July 30 -        - Hot Springs, AR - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
July 31 -        - Little Rock, AR - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
August 1 -       - Texarkana, TX - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
September 23 -   - Deer Park, NY - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
September 24 -   - Holmdel, NJ - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
September 25 -   - Saratoga Springs, NY - TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
September 26 -   - Selinsgrove, PA	TBD,
			For Information call (301) 677-6586
	
For more information go to:

http://www.armyfieldband.com/pages/schedule/bc_sched.html


If you make it out to one of the concerts, after the concert try to 
say hello to
my son SSG JohnC Blair.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From khand1486 at earthlink.net  Thu May 14 09:45:28 2009
From: khand1486 at earthlink.net (Kevin D Hand)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 08:45:28 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Bricklin] Western Bricklin Meet documents
Message-ID: <5250996.1242315928376.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Everyone,

I had forgotten that this e-mail list group was also in my California Bricklin Owners e-mail distribution list.  For security reasons, attachments to e-mails sent to hosted groups typically filter out attachments to prevent the spread of malicious virus files...

If anyone on this list wants to get the western meet document files, please send me a private e-mail letting me know that - please send to khand1486 at earthlink.net and I will send Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) files back to you!

Thanks,

Kevin Hand
#462
951-237-7431 (cell)

From breton48 at live.com  Mon May 18 09:18:01 2009
From: breton48 at live.com (JLC)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:18:01 -0600
Subject: [Bricklin] Gas tank wanted
In-Reply-To: <COL107-DS24D998FED04A57587D6218AF650@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-DS729820127FBF4179DC572D06A0@phx.gbl>
	<0BEA21AE62444D5399FB3A92D21E815C@greg>
	<COL107-DS24D998FED04A57587D6218AF650@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL107-DS138D721962200491B22374AF5A0@phx.gbl>

Any lister has a Bricklin gas tank in good condition for sale?

JLC in Colorado

From gschroeder at comcast.net  Tue May 19 20:30:34 2009
From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 21:30:34 -0500
Subject: [Bricklin] 74 - Push Rod Guide Plates
Message-ID: <D7525E97B7BA4842A801D652DEB844AB@greg>

OK, getting ready to install my rocker stud through the push rod guide plates
into the head and there is a gap since it is not threaded all the way.  What
would be the recommended way to allow them to tighten up.  Flat washer above
or below the guide plate or is there another method?   I am leaning towards
below the guide plate since the stud has a flare that will prevent the guide
plate from slipping.

Greg 0036

From rick at hightechcoatings.com  Wed May 20 03:47:32 2009
From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 05:47:32 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] 74 - Push Rod Guide Plates
Message-ID: <34E9053DFF66413D9AE16C4891DF0DBC@work>

Are you sure they are not bottoming out  in the hole, if they are aftermarket
studs that is a common problem,the aftermarket ones almost fit,  The right way
to fix it is to cut a bit off the end of the stud so they don't bottom out. If
they are not  threaded high enough, they are just plain no good,probably
Chinese made almost right,  return them and buy better quality ones.  but they
are more than likely 1/8" too long on the head end and just need to be cut or
ground down.

On 5/19/2009 10:30:34 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote:
> OK, getting ready to install my rocker stud through the push rod guide
> plates
> into the head and there is a gap since it is not threaded all the way.
> What
> would be the recommended way to allow them to tighten up.  Flat washer
> above
> or below the guide plate or is there another method?   I am leaning
> towards
> below the guide plate since the stud has a flare that will prevent
> the guide
> plate from slipping.
>
> Greg 0036
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Bricklin at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin
>
> You are subscribed as rick at hightechcoatings.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From isensee at aol.com  Sun May 24 03:46:54 2009
From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 05:46:54 -0400
Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin featured in article on cars built for safety
Message-ID: <8CBAA6BB4CEF05D-628-3502@FWM-M34.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.hagerty.com/lifestyle/hobby_article.aspx?id=42670