From lordshill at aol.com Sun Mar 1 19:55:04 2009 From: lordshill at aol.com (lordshill at aol.com) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 21:55:04 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Stainles Steel Braided flex brake lines Message-ID: <8CB68F96BC83113-838-3425@webmail-md16.sysops.aol.com> Hello.. I was wondering if anyone had a source for the 3 (2 front; 1 rear)?flexable brake?hoses on the Bricklin.? Thanks, Roy From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 20:22:21 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 21:22:21 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Stainles Steel Braided flex brake lines References: <8CB68F96BC83113-838-3425@webmail-md16.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <64098283733E4260B405CF91709FB18D@greg> I had purchased a NOS line for the left front and had issues with the leaking. I purchased some bendable hose from a local auto parts shop and it worked fine no issues with leaks. There is also a chance a replacement for any 74 AMC would work. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Mar 2 05:59:34 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 02 Mar 2009 07:59:34 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Stainles Steel Braided flex brake lines In-Reply-To: <8CB68F96BC83113-838-3425@webmail-md16.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB68F96BC83113-838-3425@webmail-md16.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090302075521.01fdc1e8@cox.net> At 09:55 PM 3/1/2009, Roy wrote: >Hello.. I was wondering if anyone had a source for the 3 (2 front; 1 rear) >flexable brake hoses on the Bricklin? Roy, Like Greg said, they are for a AMC Hornet/Gremlin. You will have to know if you have Kelsey-Hayes ('74s and early '75s) or Bendix (late '75s & '76s). To tell, you'll need to look at the bolt that holds the caliper to the anchor plate. If the bolt is a hex head, then it's Kelsey Hayes. If it is an Allen, Star, or Torx (I don't remember which) it's Bendix. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From lordshill at aol.com Sat Mar 7 14:19:40 2009 From: lordshill at aol.com (lordshill at aol.com) Date: Sat, 07 Mar 2009 16:19:40 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Stainless steel flexible brake lines. Message-ID: <8CB6D818FAD291E-544-1F4B@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com> Hello..? I've searched high and low and it appears that no one makes the stainless steel flexible brake lines for our cars.? On Mon or Tue I am going to a custom brake and hose shop to get information and prices on the lines for our cars.? He has the specs for the front, but not for the back and so I will take the lines with me.? He can do other lines (ie: Power steering) but cannot do the AC lines.? Anyone with a source for those?? I will get prices and all information so if anyone else wants them I will have the information. Roy 2623 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Mar 7 17:39:44 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 07 Mar 2009 19:39:44 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Stainless steel flexible brake lines. In-Reply-To: <8CB6D818FAD291E-544-1F4B@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB6D818FAD291E-544-1F4B@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090307193245.01cab008@cox.net> At 04:19 PM 3/7/2009, lordshill at aol.com wrote: >....I will take the lines with me. He can do other lines (ie: Power steering) but >cannot do the AC lines. Anyone with a source for those? Roy, As him if he can recommend any body. Around here there are several companies that can make them. Try looking you your Yellow Pages for Hydrolic lines or Fleet supply house. They may be able to make them for you. But before you have them made, you need to think about if you're going to rehab your AC system completely. Which, by the way, I strongly recommend. I had a good condenser (the part in front of the radiator). When I took mine off I took it to a shop and had it cleaned and pressure tested. Several years later I put it on. I could not get the original dryer, so I had to modify the hoses to fit. When we charged the system, we found about 5 holes in the condenser and a leak in the silver solder on the evaporator. So I got to pull the hole thing down again. I finally decided I'd get an aftermarket condenser. Now the original lines and the mods. wouldn't fit. I also noticed that the original lines had cracks in them. I said the heck with this, and had new lines made, we silver soldered up the evap. and I replaced the expansion valve. So everything is new. I've heard several stories of people spending a lot of time and money just replacing a hose, to have the condenser go, to have the other hose go, to...... That gets real expensive real fast. May as well just it once, and replace everything. Remember all the part, if original, are over 30 yrs old! John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 8 13:32:40 2009 From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com (google Eyes) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 20:32:40 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] por 15 Message-ID: I,ve finished sandblasting the frame on my car around the engine area . Can i put the por 15 directly over the clean sand blasted area or do i really have to use their metal ready product . I did not purchase any will have to wait a week or so if i order it in . Will the por 15 stay on without it. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with the whole group, and bring everyone together. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9650735 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Mar 8 16:48:27 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 08 Mar 2009 19:48:27 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] por 15 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090308194426.01cb2b88@cox.net> At 04:32 PM 3/8/2009, you wrote: >I've finished sandblasting the frame on my car around the engine area . Can i >put the por 15 directly over the clean sand blasted area or do i really have to >use their metal ready product . I did not purchase any will have to wait a week >or so if i order it in . Will the por 15 stay on without it. You can put the POR right over the bare metal. It likes sandblasted and slightly rusted metal. As to their metal conditioner, I've never used it and never (well almost never) had any problem with POR. The only time I did, was on a freshly formed piece of new metal. I'd sanded but not blasted it and hadn't gotten all the oils out ot the metal. After the POR dried it peeled right off. After I sandblasted it, every thing was fine. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From maycinc at cs.com Tue Mar 10 09:55:30 2009 From: maycinc at cs.com (maycinc at cs.com) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 12:55:30 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] por 15 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB6FB8279AB8EC-28C-768@FWM-D45.sysops.aol.com> You can put POR-15 on newly cleaned sand-blasted metal.? I did that to my frame and it's lasted over 6 years now.? However, for metal that is not freshly sand blasted you do need to use metal ready or some other cleaner (like a dirt & grease remover used for pre-painting) to get it squeaky clean.? Otherwise the POR-15 will peel off.?? Eastwood rust encapsilator seems to be more forgiving of a little dirt. Marvin 1343 -----Original Message----- From: google Eyes To: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 2:32 pm Subject: [Bricklin] por 15 ?I,ve finished sandblasting the frame on my car?? around the engine area? . Can i put the por 15 directly over the clean sand blasted area or do i really have to use? their metal ready product . I did not purchase any will have to wait a week or so? if i order it in .? Will the por 15 stay?on ?without it. Windows Live Messenger makes it easier to stay in touch - learn how!= _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as maycinc at cs.com http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Mar 10 10:16:18 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 13:16:18 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] por 15 In-Reply-To: <8CB6FB8279AB8EC-28C-768@FWM-D45.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB6FB8279AB8EC-28C-768@FWM-D45.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090310131409.01cd2b00@cox.net> At 12:55 PM 3/10/2009, Marvin wrote: >You can put POR-15 on newly cleaned sand-blasted metal. I did that to my >frame and it's lasted over 6 years now. However, for metal that is not freshly >sand blasted you do need to use metal ready or some other cleaner (like a dirt >& grease remover used for pre-painting) to get it squeaky clean. Otherwise the >POR-15 will peel off. Eastwood rust encapsilator seems to be more forgiving of >a little dirt. One other thing about POR 15. It doesn't like sun light. You'll need to top coat it with something. To do that you'll either need to sand it to rough it up, or spray a copy of color (top coat) pain while the POR is still tacky. If you haven't you might also want to read my POR FAQ http://bricklin.org/TechCentral/TCFAQPOR15.htm John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From isensee at aol.com Wed Mar 11 17:42:14 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 20:42:14 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin article in Hagerty Message-ID: <8CB70C285AE955B-F20-1DBA@FWM-M07.sysops.aol.com> I just received the spring issue of the magazine that Hagerty's insurance sends to their customers and there is a nice one page article on the Bricklin in it. Scott Isensee -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Mar 11 19:33:51 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 21:33:51 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin article in Hagerty References: <8CB70C285AE955B-F20-1DBA@FWM-M07.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Scott, Glad you mentioned it. I have a scan of the article that I posted on the forum at this link. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Articles/?action=view¤t=HagertyArticle-Bricklin.jpg You can contact Hagerty if you want a copy of the article. There is a charge. I am not sure how much, but I believe it is reasonable. Sandy's car that is pictured won best of show at the 2007 meet in Leominster. Greg 0036 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Mar 11 19:36:37 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 21:36:37 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Transmission removal Message-ID: <3F85B19C23BF4675AA257AC9E2DD2608@greg> I am in the process of pulling the engine and transmission in my Bricklin. There are four bolts in one section of the transmission mount and another part with just two. The section with two I was able to remove easily and were directly in the transmission. The four I cannot tell if they are connected to the transmission or not. I need to know if I need those removed to remove the transmission or not. Greg 0036 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Thu Mar 12 04:22:32 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 07:22:32 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Transmission removal In-Reply-To: <3F85B19C23BF4675AA257AC9E2DD2608@greg> References: <3F85B19C23BF4675AA257AC9E2DD2608@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090312071650.01fc1080@cox.net> At 10:36 PM 3/11/2009, Greg Schroeder wrote: >I am in the process of pulling the engine and transmission in my Bricklin. There are >four bolts in one section of the transmission mount and another part with just two. >The section with two I was able to remove easily and were directly in the >transmission. The four I cannot tell if they are connected to the transmission or not. >I need to know if I need those removed to remove the transmission or not. Greg, I can't really answer your question with the 74s. But I'm assuming that it's very similar to the 75s. If I remember correctly, you should be able to remove the bolts that hold the xmission mount to the cross brace, leaving the mount attached to the xmission. Trying to get to the bolts that held the mount to the xmission is about impossible with everything in the car. The other option is to actually pull the cross brace from chassis. This will give you a lot more room to drop the xmission and angle the engine/xmission combo. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From rick at hightechcoatings.com Thu Mar 12 04:56:25 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 07:56:25 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Transmission removal Message-ID: On a 74, If my memory serves me, and it doesn't always, The 2 bolts hold the mount to the transmission and the 4 smaller nuts hold the mount to the cross. On 3/11/2009 10:36:37 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > I am in the process of pulling the engine and transmission in my Bricklin. > There are four bolts in one section of the transmission mount and another > part with just two. The section with two I was able to remove easily and > were directly in the transmission. The four I cannot tell if they are > connected to the transmission or not. I need to know if I need those > removed to remove the transmission or not. > > Greg 0036 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Thu Mar 12 17:08:13 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:08:13 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] CA car for sale Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090312200454.01cb46e8@cox.net> Gang, I just got a phone call from a fellow in Oceanside CA that has to sell a car. His brother was restoring it and had a stroke and can no longer work on the car. Here's the info: VIN 00021BX5S001893 - Mostly intact car was being restored by owner. Rebuilt eng & trans. interior needs to be redone, modified to a 4sp xmission, new exhaust, needs to be painted and finished. asking $5,000. Contact Eladio Rader ; Oceanside, Ca 92057; 760- 994-2190; eladiolaz at hotmail.com ---------------- John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Mon Mar 16 03:59:05 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 06:59:05 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] looking at paint Message-ID: <58115907B85C459B8CA61B98CF92676C@ericc8clemb3ij> i wonder if it would be good to add flex in paint before painting the body ...what do you guys think?they put it on bumpers and we all know body flex a bit ... tks serge [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Mar 16 05:09:52 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 08:09:52 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] looking at paint Message-ID: <3EB3DB2CF3BC427D8E693AD8D23DB66F@work> Most modern paints handle flex just fine, Most urethane paints are much more flexible than the panels. On 3/16/2009 6:59:05 AM, serge (serge.ber at sympatico.ca) wrote: > i wonder if it would be good to add flex in paint before painting the > body > ...what do you guys think?they put it on bumpers and we all know body flex a > bit ... tks serge From maycinc at cs.com Mon Mar 16 12:15:01 2009 From: maycinc at cs.com (maycinc at cs.com) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 15:15:01 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] looking at paint In-Reply-To: <58115907B85C459B8CA61B98CF92676C@ericc8clemb3ij> References: <58115907B85C459B8CA61B98CF92676C@ericc8clemb3ij> Message-ID: <8CB7482A395FEE8-1484-32C@WEBMAIL-MY11.sysops.aol.com> When my son painted his Merkur last year his instructor said he only needed to add a flex agent to the clear coat.? Then only on the rubber/plastic pieces.? I was told the same thing when I painted my Nova.??? What they said was that the urethane base colors are flexible enough on their own. ? Now lacquer paint would be a different story. Marvin #1343 -----Original Message----- From: serge To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 4:59 am Subject: [Bricklin] looking at paint i wonder if it would be good to add flex in paint before painting the body ......what do you guys think?they put it on bumpers and we all know body flex a bit ... tks serge [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as maycinc at cs.com http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From harhay at pol.net Mon Mar 16 14:51:40 2009 From: harhay at pol.net (harhay at pol.net) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 17:51:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Vin 0040 Message-ID: <61729.10.250.10.1.1237240300.squirrel@webmail2.medscape.com> Hi I would like to unsubscribe to the newsleter, Joe H From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Mar 22 21:36:51 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 23:36:51 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? Message-ID: <589A9E0FD60745F894F049F481FDD9C4@greg> OK, back to this subject. Since I have removed the engine and transmission this is a good time to coat the floor with something to reduce the floor heat. I ran across this stuff at Home Depot called Henry 555 Aluminum Roof Coating. Indicates it can reduce temperatures up to 20%. It is a highly reflective surface. It would most likely be a paint on type. Could something like this be used and work? If not are there some new product out there that would help? I had already installed a floor heat shield, but the heat still gets in. Usually after about 10 miles the AC cannot keep up. Greg 0036 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Mar 23 03:42:30 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 06:42:30 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? Message-ID: <13838AF0B0C44308A38DC6F0D2343CD3@work> from what I understand the heat that is reduced by that coating is because of reflected light, not much light gets under a bricklin LOL. I may work somewhat on radiant heat but I don't know how well it will work. There is a product out there called lizard skin that gets good reviews in the street rod crowd, I have never tried it though. here is a link to alternatives I found http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html?s=84d5528 cdd7fbf165c977c07e48cce52 looks like lizardskin and the likes are micro balloons and latex paint, microbalance are available at fiberglass supply places and latex paint is available as left overs in your garage LOL. You could even maybe buy a quart tinted like fiberglass color so it doesn't stand out so much or even get some flat black. On 3/23/2009 12:36:51 AM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > this is a good time to coat the floor with something to reduce > the floor heat. > I ran across this stuff at Home Depot called Henry 555 Aluminum Roof > Coating. > Indicates it can reduce temperatures up to 20%. It is a highly > reflective > surface. It would most likely be a paint on type. Could something like > this > be used and work? From isensee at aol.com Mon Mar 23 05:37:16 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 08:37:16 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? In-Reply-To: <13838AF0B0C44308A38DC6F0D2343CD3@work> References: <13838AF0B0C44308A38DC6F0D2343CD3@work> Message-ID: <8CB79CB3C048E15-1474-1A5A@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> It would surprise me if any type of coating you can paint on would be as effective as putting insulation under the carpet. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Rick at High Tech Coatings To: bl Sent: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 5:42 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? from what I understand the heat that is reduced by that coating is because of reflected light, not much light gets under a bricklin LOL. I may work somewhat on radiant heat but I don't know how well it will work. There is a product out there called lizard skin that gets good reviews in the street rod crowd, I have never tried it though. here is a link to alternatives I found http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html?s=84d5528 cdd7fbf165c977c07e48cce52 looks like lizardskin and the likes are micro balloons and latex paint, microbalance are available at fiberglass supply places and latex paint is available as left overs in your garage LOL. You could even maybe buy a quart tinted like fiberglass color so it doesn't stand out so much or even get some flat black. On 3/23/2009 12:36:51 AM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > this is a good time to coat the floor with something to reduce > the floor heat. > I ran across this stuff at Home Depot called Henry 555 Aluminum Roof > Coating. > Indicates it can reduce temperatures up to 20%. It is a highly > reflective > surface. It would most likely be a paint on type. Could something like > this > be used and work? Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From DgrDigdoug at aol.com Mon Mar 23 06:46:17 2009 From: DgrDigdoug at aol.com (DgrDigdoug at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 09:46:17 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? Message-ID: Lizard skin is a really good product. We have used it on several cars and have been very pleased, It is applied as a two stage product. One layer is a sound deadener and one layer is a ceramic heat shield. Can be sanded and painted. After working with Dynomat and Lizard skin there is no comparison. #469 will get its lizard skin this week. Doug In a message dated 3/23/2009 5:37:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, isensee at aol.com writes: It would surprise me if any type of coating you can paint on would be as effective as putting insulation under the carpet. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Rick at High Tech Coatings To: bl Sent: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 5:42 am Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? from what I understand the heat that is reduced by that coating is because of reflected light, not much light gets under a bricklin LOL. I may work somewhat on radiant heat but I don't know how well it will work. There is a product out there called lizard skin that gets good reviews in the street rod crowd, I have never tried it though. here is a link to alternatives I found http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html?s=84d5528 cdd7fbf165c977c07e48cce52 looks like lizardskin and the likes are micro balloons and latex paint, microbalance are available at fiberglass supply places and latex paint is available as left overs in your garage LOL. You could even maybe buy a quart tinted like fiberglass color so it doesn't stand out so much or even get some flat black. On 3/23/2009 12:36:51 AM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > this is a good time to coat the floor with something to reduce > the floor heat. > I ran across this stuff at Home Depot called Henry 555 Aluminum Roof > Coating. > Indicates it can reduce temperatures up to 20%. It is a highly > reflective > surface. It would most likely be a paint on type. Could something like > this > be used and work? Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as dgrdigdoug at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 07:36:50 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 09:36:50 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Floor Heat Remedy? References: Message-ID: Doug, I will be curious if you notice a difference in the heat.. It looks like this would have been a good option for the interior, but since I have installed sound/heat shield inside already I may try to do the underside of the car and firewall. Looks like this can be brushed so I should be able to get a good thickness. At $89 a gallon, I believe one gallon should do it. I believe I need the firewall, to the back of the transmission tunnel. Wish I would have cleaned the firewall and tunnel when I cleaned the frame in the engine bay. Guess I get to roll the car back out again to prep it. Greg 0036 From Maycinc at cs.com Tue Mar 31 19:14:53 2009 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 22:14:53 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] AOD Conversion Message-ID: I'm thinking of putting an AOD in my '75. What is involved in the swap? Marvin #1343