From david_dalbianco at yahoo.ca Fri Jul 3 14:23:59 2009 From: david_dalbianco at yahoo.ca (David Dal Bianco) Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 13:23:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening Message-ID: <507859.99220.qm@web112602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi Guys, My driver door will not open when the door button is pressed. It has been acting sluggish for some time now. The passenger door opens fine, although sometimes it opens too fast. Any ideas where I should start to troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate your help. Thanks, Dave __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From sbunin at cablespeed.com Fri Jul 3 22:42:29 2009 From: sbunin at cablespeed.com (Seth) Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 00:42:29 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening In-Reply-To: <507859.99220.qm@web112602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <507859.99220.qm@web112602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A4EDDB5.7010500@cablespeed.com> If I had to guess, it sounds like your up solenoid has gotten plugged. Your air control panel is located in the compartment behind the driver. It's always easier to work on it when it's out of the compartment so I'd suggest removing the control panel. Then it's just a matter of opening the solenoids and cleaning any debris out. Take the nut off will allow you to get the coil off the valve. Then a flathead screwdriver will allow you to unscrew the valve. Clean out the seat and reassemble. Seth #1544 David Dal Bianco wrote: > Hi Guys, > My driver door will not open when the door button is pressed. It has been > acting sluggish for some time now. The passenger door opens fine, although > sometimes it opens too fast. > Any ideas where I should start to troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate your > help. > Thanks, > Dave > __________________________________________________________________ From rick at hightechcoatings.com Sat Jul 4 09:35:18 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 11:35:18 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening Message-ID: <1064678D8E9E44D89EDE19D0046C137E@work> first does it unlatch if not start looking at the latch circuit, It is probably a bad solenoid in the door or a broken wire. if it unlatches and you can open it hand but it is heavy and stays up once it is opened, It is in the air system, probably the air solenoid in the door compartment. It could also be the cylinder, To test the cylinder add an ounce of hydraulic oil to the top post of the cylinder If that seals it then the cylinder is on the way out, If not remove the hose from the bottom of the cylinder (with door braced up!!) and push the button to pen, If air comes out the hose (lots of it) Then the solenoid is fine and the cylinder is bad, If no air or only a bit comes out then the solenoid or its electrical connection is bad. On 7/3/2009 4:23:59 PM, David Dal Bianco (david_dalbianco at yahoo.ca) wrote: > Hi Guys, > My driver door will not open when the door button is pressed. It has > been > acting sluggish for some time now. The passenger door opens fine, > although > sometimes it opens too fast. > Any ideas where I should start to troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate your > help. > Thanks, > Dave From DgrDigdoug at aol.com Sat Jul 4 09:41:53 2009 From: DgrDigdoug at aol.com (DgrDigdoug at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 11:41:53 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] body panels Message-ID: Currently looking for the front lower valance and headlight covers, anyone know a source? Thanks, Doug Shannon #469 **************Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood00000005) From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Jul 4 11:17:33 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 13:17:33 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] body panels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090704131650.01d4b0f8@cox.net> At 11:41 AM 7/4/2009, DgrDigdoug at aol.com wrote: >Currently looking for the front lower valance and headlight covers, anyone >know a source? Doug, Terry Tanner, Bob Hoffman, and possibly Rick of High Tech coatings. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From chuckscurr at yahoo.com Sat Jul 4 12:14:00 2009 From: chuckscurr at yahoo.com (Chuck Scurr) Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 11:14:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening Message-ID: <107700.67652.qm@web112414.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Not to steal the thread but where can I purchase or get rebuilt "Door Assist Cylinders" Delco/ Mongoose 425SS Torch Red Y2K 4 Sp Coupe in Honolulu Hawaii --- On Fri, 7/3/09, Seth wrote: From: Seth Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening To: "Bricklin Club" Date: Friday, July 3, 2009, 10:42 PM If I had to guess, it sounds like your up solenoid has gotten plugged. Your air control panel is located in the compartment behind the driver. It's always easier to work on it when it's out of the compartment so I'd suggest removing the control panel. Then it's just a matter of opening the solenoids and cleaning any debris out. Take the nut off will allow you to get the coil off the valve. Then a flathead screwdriver will allow you to unscrew the valve. Clean out the seat and reassemble. Seth #1544 David Dal Bianco wrote: > Hi Guys, > My driver door will not open when the door button is pressed. It has been > acting sluggish for some time now. The passenger door opens fine, although > sometimes it opens too fast. > Any ideas where I should start to troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate your > help. > Thanks, > Dave > __________________________________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as chuckscurr at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From khand1486 at earthlink.net Sat Jul 4 14:58:10 2009 From: khand1486 at earthlink.net (Kevin D. Hand) Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 13:58:10 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Parts vendors / Door Not Opening In-Reply-To: <107700.67652.qm@web112414.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <107700.67652.qm@web112414.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <15CFCE1B-A85A-49E1-830B-D60FAED0D295@earthlink.net> This is directed to all Bricklin owners & enthusiasts, new or old... Climbing up on my soapbox... Support our vendors so that they will be with us for more years of service to the Bricklin community! Terry Tanner (Bricklin Parts & Service) or Bob Hoffman (Bob's Brickyard) are two amongst many vendors listed in the Brickline or on the BI website. There are other vendors that have a variety of parts that are there to support us If you're not a member of the BI club, support the club and pony up the $40/year membership to get the quarterly magazine and access to a ton of specialized Bricklin technical information via the website. The vendors and the club are the prime reasons why we are in a good position to keep our cars on the road... Getting down off of my soap box now... Kevin Hand #462 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 4, 2009, at 11:14 AM, Chuck Scurr wrote: > Not to steal the thread but where can I purchase or get rebuilt > "Door Assist > Cylinders" > > Delco/ Mongoose 425SS Torch Red > Y2K 4 Sp Coupe in Honolulu Hawaii > > --- On Fri, 7/3/09, Seth wrote: > > > From: Seth > Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening > To: "Bricklin Club" > Date: Friday, July 3, 2009, 10:42 PM > > > If I had to guess, it sounds like your up solenoid has gotten > plugged. Your > air control panel is located > in the compartment behind the driver. It's always easier to work on > it when > it's out of the compartment > so I'd suggest removing the control panel. Then it's just a matter > of opening > the solenoids and cleaning > any debris out. Take the nut off will allow you to get the coil off > the valve. > Then a flathead screwdriver > will allow you to unscrew the valve. Clean out the seat and > reassemble. > > Seth > #1544 > > David Dal Bianco wrote: >> Hi Guys, >> My driver door will not open when the door button is pressed. It >> has been >> acting sluggish for some time now. The passenger door opens fine, >> although >> sometimes it opens too fast. >> Any ideas where I should start to troubleshoot this? I'd >> appreciate your >> help. >> Thanks, >> Dave >> __________________________________________________________________ > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as chuckscurr at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as khand1486 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Jul 5 17:45:11 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 19:45:11 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090705105133.01d52150@cox.net> At 09:49 AM 7/5/2009, you wrote: >>The more info you can give makes trying to diagnose it easier. Your >>question is extreamly general, like my car doesn't run, why? >> >>My 1st guess is you have an electrical problem. :) >> >>Will it open from the inside switch? Will it open from the outside >>switch? Do you hear any clicks from the air dist. panel? Do you hear >>a click from the electric door latch in the door? Have you pulled the pin >>at the top of the lift ram, and pulled the manual release (door handle)? >>If you open the door, is the wire appear broken between the door and >>the roof? >I tried to open the driver door from the inside switch and it worked! So my >problem is centered at the outside driver switch. Sometimes it works, other >times it doesn't. The switch is riveted on. Is there an access from inside? Dave, Chances are that the contacts on the switch are dirty, or the switch is dying. You can remove the quarter inner panel, and get access to the back of the switch. Check to make sure that the wires haven't come off of the pins on the switch. You can try to clean the switch by squirting some tuner cleaner into the switch and the working the switch. I don't remember if that switch has 2 sets of contacts on it or not. If it does, you can try moving the wires to the 2nd set of contacts. See if that helps. If not you'll have to replace the switch. >Also, the wire going into the door in the roof is on its way out. This IS a problem! It will probably break at the most inopertune time. So you should think about trying to fix it now. There are 2 fixes for this: 1. Is more of a short term fix. That is to cut the wire where it is breaking, and install a butt crimp connector. We did this on Jim Kelliher's car when the wire broke in my driveway. We tried to clean the wire and solder it, but it just wouldn't take solder. 2. You can try to replace the wire. You can not get the wire out of the door with the door skins on. So push the wire back into the door. Then try and push a new wire down through the top of the door to the bottom. You'll have to remove the headliner and the bottom panel on the door. You'll want to get the thinnest (most number of strands) stranded wire, the same gauge as is there. Check with local electronic or wire supply houses in your area. The stranded wire may be too flexable to push down through the door. So try something like the bare copper wire in a 12x2 /w ground romex. Push the romex down through the door. When you can reach it in the bottom of the door, tape the stranded wire to it and gently pull it back through the door. Hope this helps. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From maycinc at cs.com Sun Jul 5 20:44:10 2009 From: maycinc at cs.com (maycinc at cs.com) Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 22:44:10 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] 1343 for sale Message-ID: <8CBCBFAC657E455-1E2C-4446@mblk-d13.sysops.aol.com> I've decided to try and sell my 75 Bricklin #1343 again. ? It's in show condition with less than 3000 miles since a complete body off restoration was completed in 2002.? Here are the specifics: MODIFICATIONS: Originally white now painted pearl white. Air doors with air operated door latches. Wood dash overlay Terry Tanner center console Compound front scoop, electric fan, high volume water pump (does not overheat) ISSUES: 1. A/C has never been installed since the restoration.? I have all the parts including a rebuilt dryer but I never got around to installing it.? 2. The body piece that goes across the car underneath the rear bumper is missing.? I never realized that it was supposed to be there when I rebuilt the car.? I've have a replacement piece from a junk back panel. 3. I had the seams filled when it was painted and now a couple of seam cracks are starting to appear. .? The main one is where the passenger rear quarter panel meets the roof panel.? Asking $15,000.?? Photos can be seen on photobucket at http://www.photobucket.com/albums/e249/svxnova/ Marvin ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Jul 6 04:33:29 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 06:33:29 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Door Not Opening Message-ID: > >I tried to open the driver door from the inside switch and it worked! So my > >problem is centered at the outside driver switch. Sometimes it works, other > >times it doesn't. > The switch is riveted on. Is there an access > from inside? Yes through the speaker hole, pop the speaker cover off and remover the speaker you can reach the switch through there, If the switch is original it should be riveted on, if not it may be screwed on. It also helps when removing the switch bezel to push on the prongs of the bezel through the speaker hole, the passenger side switch bezel seems to be hard to come by so be careful. From glcurley at aol.com Mon Jul 6 19:55:28 2009 From: glcurley at aol.com (George Curley) Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 21:55:28 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] test 1 Message-ID: <4A52AB10.8030405@aol.com> test to see if I can receive mail from list From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Tue Jul 7 03:24:20 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 09:24:20 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] test 1 Message-ID: Message recieved. Message sent. From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Jul 7 19:06:51 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 20:06:51 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Replacement Drive Shaft for 700r4 transmission swap Message-ID: <9FBCA3A48F60432E8749030C1CE9D6AB@greg> OK, I almost have the engine rebuild and the 700r4 transmission installed. I am just about 1/4 inch off of installing the motor mounts. I had to remove them to get the transmission past the firewall and removing these and installing them after the engine is installed it a real pain. It looks like I am going to be about three inches short on the drive shaft as I expected from comparing the Torque Command to the 700r4. What are my options to resolve this issue? Greg 0036 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Wed Jul 8 04:31:17 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 06:31:17 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Replacement Drive Shaft for 700r4 transmission swap Message-ID: <9F456D2C42254B0E8A2B7FCB38BE725E@work> easiest and best thing to do is find a truck place local that makes driveshaft's, They are not that expensive to be made, If yours is too long it could be shortened if it is too short just have a new one made. You may be able to spend 4 days in junkyards finding one that is close but in the end you will be better off getting a new one, it should be under $200, just bring them the transmission yoke and the measurement, ask them how they want the measurement, some want end to end some want center to center of u joint. On 7/7/2009 9:06:51 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > OK, I almost have the engine rebuild and the 700r4 transmission installed. > I > am just about 1/4 inch off of installing the motor mounts. I had to > remove > them to get the transmission past the firewall and removing these > and > installing them after the engine is installed it a real pain. It looks > like I > am going to be about three inches short on the drive shaft as I expected > from > comparing the Torque Command to the 700r4. What are my options to > resolve > this issue? > > Greg 0036 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Wed Jul 8 21:48:53 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 23:48:53 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] power windows Message-ID: i was wondering if anyone ever gone power windows and found good system? any info how they did it or pics would be great tks serge From maycinc at cs.com Mon Jul 13 12:58:34 2009 From: maycinc at cs.com (maycinc at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:58:34 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door leak Message-ID: <8CBD2030EAFA2CE-1388-32D@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> I'm trying to track down a leak in my air door system that's driving me nuts.?? It's a somewhat slow leak but fast enough for all the pressure to be gone after about 6 hours.? I checked all the fittings and could not detect any leaks.? I also disconnected the lines going to the door cylinders and no air was coming out of them. ? Also I could not detect any air coming back out through the compressor intake. ? So, other than a possible leak in one of the lines, is there some other possibility like an internal leak in the electric air compressor? Marvin #1343 ? ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From isensee at aol.com Mon Jul 13 13:26:42 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:26:42 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door leak In-Reply-To: <8CBD2030EAFA2CE-1388-32D@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CBD2030EAFA2CE-1388-32D@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CBD206FCBC7E54-2F4-FE@WEBMAIL-MC04.sysops.aol.com> I assume you put soapy water on the connections. Leaks are often too slow to hear, but the bubbles you get with soapy water help to give it away. The control valves can leak too so be sure to check those. There is a reed valve in the electric compressor that can leak. In addition to the soapy water, a leak detection technique that has worked well for me is to put a little freon in the air tank and sniff around with a freon leak detector. Those are extremely sensitive and will detect very small leaks. Scott -----Original Message----- From: maycinc at cs.com To: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Jul 13, 2009 1:58 pm Subject: [Bricklin] Air door leak I'm trying to track down a leak in my air door system that's driving me nuts.?? It's a somewhat slow leak but fast enough for all the pressure to be gone after about 6 hours.? I checked all the fittings and could not detect any leaks.? I also disconnected the lines going to the door cylinders and no air was coming out of them. ? Also I could not detect any air coming back out through the compressor intake. ? So, other than a possible leak in one of the lines, is there some other possibility like an internal leak in the electric air compressor? Marvin #1343 ? ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Jul 13 14:01:47 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:01:47 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Air door leak References: <8CBD2030EAFA2CE-1388-32D@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8EE23CE034AA4AAAB1213D8F73D11D33@greg> If you have any brass outside and vinyl inside compression fittings you may want to replace them with brass. I had one pop off a cylinder while it was up and the door slammed down. Could have been dangerous if someone was trying to get in/out of the car. The vinyl fitting around the hose just gave way. I would believe that these over time would leak also, but I would work through the leak first since you could cause more issues while replacing all fittings. Greg 0036 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Mon Jul 13 16:49:52 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:49:52 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Fw: Air door leak Message-ID: <73EC27FF09BC4F93B89513A02C991A79@martine9fd6200> ----- Original Message ----- From: "serge" To: "Greg Schroeder" Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 6:49 PM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air door leak > im not sure of your setup check tank ..some have valve you can fill air at > gas tank near buttom some let go sometime could be tank too...rusted out > ..spray water and joy ...look for bubbles ...good luck serge > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Greg Schroeder" > To: ; > Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 4:01 PM > Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air door leak > > >> If you have any brass outside and vinyl inside compression fittings you >> may >> want to replace them with brass. I had one pop off a cylinder while it >> was >> up and the door slammed down. Could have been dangerous if someone was >> trying to get in/out of the car. The vinyl fitting around the hose just >> gave way. I would believe that these over time would leak also, but I >> would >> work through the leak first since you could cause more issues while >> replacing all fittings. >> >> Greg 0036 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Bricklin at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin >> >> You are subscribed as serge.ber at sympatico.ca >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2235 - Release Date: 07/13/09 > 05:56:00 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Mon Jul 13 16:59:20 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:59:20 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Fw: Air door leak References: <73EC27FF09BC4F93B89513A02C991A79@martine9fd6200> Message-ID: <36E4407515284B8EB52682C26E092474@martine9fd6200> not gas tank ...i ment gas station ..lol been a long day sorry guys lol serge ----- Original Message ----- From: "serge" To: "bricklin" Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 6:49 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Fw: Air door leak > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "serge" > To: "Greg Schroeder" > Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 6:49 PM > Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air door leak > > >> im not sure of your setup check tank ..some have valve you can fill air >> at >> gas tank near buttom some let go sometime could be tank too...rusted out >> ..spray water and joy ...look for bubbles ...good luck serge >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Greg Schroeder" >> To: ; >> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 4:01 PM >> Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air door leak >> >> >>> If you have any brass outside and vinyl inside compression fittings you >>> may >>> want to replace them with brass. I had one pop off a cylinder while it >>> was >>> up and the door slammed down. Could have been dangerous if someone was >>> trying to get in/out of the car. The vinyl fitting around the hose just >>> gave way. I would believe that these over time would leak also, but I >>> would >>> work through the leak first since you could cause more issues while >>> replacing all fittings. >>> >>> Greg 0036 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Bricklin at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin >>> >>> You are subscribed as serge.ber at sympatico.ca >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >> >> >> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2235 - Release Date: >> 07/13/09 >> 05:56:00 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as serge.ber at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2235 - Release Date: 07/13/09 05:56:00 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Wed Jul 15 05:13:38 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:13:38 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] shocks Message-ID: <498B2BF282A84BD283D194052D188D50@martine9fd6200> Im looking for front shocks 75...anyone got part number ,brand from canada ...us part number dont match up ..or donor car year and model ..tks serge From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Jul 15 07:53:11 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:53:11 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] shocks References: <498B2BF282A84BD283D194052D188D50@martine9fd6200> Message-ID: <5B943919E24C40ADAA467FDAF3A52B1D@greg> Ford Maverick. ----- Original Message ----- From: "serge" To: "bricklin" Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 6:13 AM Subject: [Bricklin] shocks > Im looking for front shocks 75...anyone got part number ,brand from canada > ...us part number dont match up ..or donor car year and model ..tks serge > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as gschroeder at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Jul 20 14:30:30 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:30:30 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC Message-ID: I made the mistake not marking the position of the distributor at TDC when I removed it. Unlike my Toyota which had alignment marks to get the distributor in the correct position it does not appear to be on the AMC. When the engine is at TDC what plug wire should the distributor be on? Greg 0036 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Jul 20 18:00:12 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 20:00:12 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC Message-ID: Number 1 On 7/20/2009 4:30:30 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > I made the mistake not marking the position of the distributor at TDC when > I > removed it. Unlike my Toyota which had alignment marks to get the > distributor > in the correct position it does not appear to be on the AMC. When the > engine > is at TDC what plug wire should the distributor be on? > > Greg 0036 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Tue Jul 21 04:37:03 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:37:03 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC Message-ID: Looking at it from the front. The advance can should be somewere near 5:00. Your no.1 will be the first plug wire location right of the front cap mounting screw. From drgautreau at comcast.net Tue Jul 21 05:22:06 2009 From: drgautreau at comcast.net (Dennis Gautreau) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:22:06 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All distributers point to the number one plug when you are setting the distributer on an engine. The number 1 cylinder should be at top dead center in order for this to work correctly. Below is a link showing the firing order and cylinder locations of the Windsor class engines if anyone wants it for reference. http://www.302w.com/Firing-order.aspx Hope this helps.. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "D Walker" To: "Rick at High Tech Coatings" ; "bl" Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 6:37 AM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC > Looking at it from the front. The advance can should be somewere near > 5:00. Your no.1 will be the first plug wire location right of the front > cap mounting screw. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as drgautreau at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Tue Jul 21 05:31:22 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 11:31:22 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC Message-ID: I think the question was where the rotor should be pointed at to start lacing the plug wires on the cap.? From klasicars at mywdo.com Tue Jul 21 07:38:57 2009 From: klasicars at mywdo.com (klasicars) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:38:57 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A65C4F1.9030509@mywdo.com> /Something else to consider when setting the distributor is that TDC occurs TWICE for each revolution of the distributor rotor. To be certain that you are working with the correct correlation between the crank and camshaft you need to observe that the intake and exhaust valves for number one cylinder are closed when the timing mark on the balancer is at TDC. Otherwise you will have all the timing 180 degrees out of time. Remove the left valve cover to see the valve action for number one cylinder./ Greg Schroeder wrote: > I made the mistake not marking the position of the distributor at TDC when I > removed it. Unlike my Toyota which had alignment marks to get the distributor > in the correct position it does not appear to be on the AMC. When the engine > is at TDC what plug wire should the distributor be on? > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as klasicars at mywdo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From gmalaska at hotmail.com Tue Jul 21 07:43:42 2009 From: gmalaska at hotmail.com (George Malaska) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 09:43:42 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC In-Reply-To: <4A65C4F1.9030509@mywdo.com> References: <4A65C4F1.9030509@mywdo.com> Message-ID: Or you can pull the number 1 spark plug, tap the engine over until you feel the compression coming out of the hole, then turn crank to TDC, drop dist. in with rotor pointing at #1 in cap. Saves a lot of extra work. George. ----- Original Message ----- From: klasicars To: Greg Schroeder Cc: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC /Something else to consider when setting the distributor is that TDC occurs TWICE for each revolution of the distributor rotor. To be certain that you are working with the correct correlation between the crank and camshaft you need to observe that the intake and exhaust valves for number one cylinder are closed when the timing mark on the balancer is at TDC. Otherwise you will have all the timing 180 degrees out of time. Remove the left valve cover to see the valve action for number one cylinder./ Greg Schroeder wrote: > I made the mistake not marking the position of the distributor at TDC when I > removed it. Unlike my Toyota which had alignment marks to get the distributor > in the correct position it does not appear to be on the AMC. When the engine > is at TDC what plug wire should the distributor be on? > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as klasicars at mywdo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as gmalaska at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From klasicars at mywdo.com Tue Jul 21 07:46:47 2009 From: klasicars at mywdo.com (klasicars) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:46:47 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A65C6C7.8070005@mywdo.com> /I believe I need to correct my previous message. We have been responding with info regarding a 351W engine and Greg has an AMC so the number one cylinder, I believe, is like GM products the front cylinder on the drivers side of the engine. / Greg Schroeder wrote: > I made the mistake not marking the position of the distributor at TDC when I > removed it. Unlike my Toyota which had alignment marks to get the distributor > in the correct position it does not appear to be on the AMC. When the engine > is at TDC what plug wire should the distributor be on? > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as klasicars at mywdo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Jul 21 09:18:05 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:18:05 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC References: Message-ID: Thanks for all the responses. I had it set to number one plug wire and the engine fired. Due to a lot of vibration and still having the distributor to loose it moved out of time again. So I will have to realign it again. It was just good to hear it crank and finally fire for a few seconds. Always a nervous moment after all the work of getting it installed. Now I just need to get it to idle and get it timed correctly. Greg 0036 From klasicars at mywdo.com Tue Jul 21 10:22:42 2009 From: klasicars at mywdo.com (klasicars) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:22:42 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Cleveland vs Windsor Message-ID: <4A65EB52.7080808@mywdo.com> /I have run across an ad for a '74 351 Cleveland with a AOD transmission and headers. I know I have read about some members converting from the Windsor to Cleveland. My question is, is this a direct replacement or is the Cleveland physically larger which might require special attention? I am not concerned with the AOD portion as I already have replaced my FMX with a AOD on my stock Windsor. Exactly what identifying marks do I look for to verify this is a true Cleveland and not just a converted Windsor? Isn't there a cast in mark on the block? Thanks, Don #1880 and other toys / From isensee at aol.com Tue Jul 21 10:40:49 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 12:40:49 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Cleveland vs Windsor In-Reply-To: <4A65EB52.7080808@mywdo.com> References: <4A65EB52.7080808@mywdo.com> Message-ID: <8CBD8392230141C-9A0-DC@WEBMAIL-MC04.sysops.aol.com> Here is an article that specifies the differences between the Windsor and Cleveland. http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/351windsorcleveland.html Scott -----Original Message----- From: klasicars To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Jul 21, 2009 11:22 am Subject: [Bricklin] Cleveland vs Windsor /I have run across an ad for a '74 351 Cleveland with a AOD transmission and headers. I know I have read about some members converting from the Windsor to Cleveland. My question is, is this a direct replacement or is the Cleveland physically larger which might require special attention? I am not concerned with the AOD portion as I already have replaced my FMX with a AOD on my stock Windsor. Exactly what identifying marks do I look for to verify this is a true Cleveland and not just a converted Windsor? Isn't there a cast in mark on the block? Thanks, Don #1880 and other toys / Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From breton48 at live.com Tue Jul 21 11:02:33 2009 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 11:02:33 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Cleveland vs Windsor In-Reply-To: <4A65EB52.7080808@mywdo.com> References: <4A65EB52.7080808@mywdo.com> Message-ID: I had cars with both 351W and 351C engines. The stock Cleveland has better heads than the Windsor, especially the Cleveland 4V. The Windsor has the bigger mains and better oiling system. Parts for the Windsor ought to be more plentiful and cheaper. Here are some of the differences: Windsor: 5 bolt valve covers Thermostat on intake Timing cover is part of the block Cleveland: 8 bolt valve covers Thermostat on front of block External aluminum timing cover They are both small blocks, but the Cleveland is wider than the Windsor due to taller deck height (9.123" vs 8.206") Below is some info I originally got from a website: 351C Engines by VIN Tag Engine Code Code Engine Type Comment H 351C-2V Generic low compression 351C, '70-74 M 351C-4V Somewhat Rare, High Compression, '70-71 only R 351C-4V Boss Very Rare, High Compression, Solid Lifters, "Boss 351", 1971 only R 351C-4V HO Very Rare, Low Compression, Solid Lifters, "High Output" 1972 only Q 351C-4V CJ Rare, Low Compression, "Cobra-Jet" May 1971/, '72, Q 351C-4V CJ Rare, Low Compression, "Cobra-Jet", 1973-74, decreased performance, see 4V section notes. JLC -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of klasicars Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 10:23 AM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] Cleveland vs Windsor /I have run across an ad for a '74 351 Cleveland with a AOD transmission and headers. I know I have read about some members converting from the Windsor to Cleveland. My question is, is this a direct replacement or is the Cleveland physically larger which might require special attention? I am not concerned with the AOD portion as I already have replaced my FMX with a AOD on my stock Windsor. Exactly what identifying marks do I look for to verify this is a true Cleveland and not just a converted Windsor? Isn't there a cast in mark on the block? Thanks, Don #1880 and other toys / Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as breton48 at live.com http://www.team.net/archive From rick at hightechcoatings.com Wed Jul 22 09:00:34 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:00:34 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] front valance Message-ID: someone on the list asked me about a front valance and headlight lids, I was supposed to get back to them with shipping info, well my computer took a dump and I lost their info. If you read this and still are interested in the parts reply and I will get the info and get them out to you . From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Fri Jul 24 05:46:23 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:46:23 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rear end Message-ID: anyone out there got part number for rear end ,,,front and rear seals? 75 thanks serge From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri Jul 24 05:53:50 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:53:50 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rear end In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090724075120.01d51ea0@cox.net> At 07:46 AM 7/24/2009, Serge wrote: >anyone out there got part number for rear end ,,,front and rear seals? 75 Serge, Here's the info I have: Rear end AMC V8 (stamping # 3212478 8V on one from 887) AMC has 2 rear ends, the 6 cylinder has 10 bolts holding the end cap on, the V8 uses 12 bolts. 6 cyl. axles and hubs are not interchangeable. (Note: If you can get a 6 cyl. rear end, can be pressed into service if you are gentle on the gas.) (From Thomas M. Benvie - The Bricklin rear-end is the same as any 8 cyl Rambler American (66-69), 8 cyl Hornet (70-77) 8 cyl Gremlin (72-76) 8 cyl Concord (78-9) and 8 cyl Spirit (79)) Seal Inner grease 7687S (no Manuf. on box) Seal Outer grease FM - 8549S John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Fri Jul 24 19:53:40 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 01:53:40 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] rear end Message-ID: If you're changing the pinion seal. The factory 1974 manual says to jack it up remove wheels and drums. Mark the position of the U joint in the yoke. Drop the drive shaft. Use a inch pound torque wrench to spin the pinion and record the reading for re-assembly. Make sure you mark the yoke and pinion shaft after the nut is removed to keep the factory position of the two parts. Buy a new yoke/pinion nut. Don't over torque the yoke nut. Just take out the end play and tighten just enough to reach the pre-recorded torque. There's a crush spacer in there that preloads the pinion bearings. If you crush it to far you will have to replace it. And that isn't fun. Been up since 2:00 AM Good Night From BBunin at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 24 22:58:18 2009 From: BBunin at sbcglobal.net (Brian Bunin) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:58:18 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Malcolm Bricklin Documentary on HULU.com In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20090724075120.01d51ea0@cox.net> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20090724075120.01d51ea0@cox.net> Message-ID: http://www.hulu.com/watch/85122/the-entrepreneur From randyhouston106 at yahoo.com Sat Jul 25 18:43:53 2009 From: randyhouston106 at yahoo.com (Randy Houston) Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:43:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Door questions Message-ID: <107386.78798.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Howdy, What is the proper air pressure to maintain for the gullwing doors air tank? Will the doors open if the battery is dead but there is enough air pressure? Thank You, Randy #1045 Yucca Valley, CA From klasicars at mywdo.com Sat Jul 25 19:09:34 2009 From: klasicars at mywdo.com (klasicars) Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 19:09:34 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Door questions In-Reply-To: <107386.78798.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <107386.78798.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A6BACCE.7040404@mywdo.com> Hey Randy, If you have doors with the electric solenoids for the latch they will not open with a dead battery even with plenty of air. That is another reason why I installed a remote location for charging the battery. Now I can charge my battery without opening the car. I believe it is a good idea to leave the hood unlatched when the car is not going to be driven for awhile, assuming it is garaged. At least you can open the hood without doing the "Bricklin crawl" to get to the latch. Don #1880 Randy Houston wrote: > Howdy, > > What is the proper air pressure to maintain for the gullwing doors air tank? > Will the doors open if the battery is dead but there is enough air pressure? > > Thank You, > Randy > #1045 > Yucca Valley, CA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as klasicars at mywdo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From khand1486 at earthlink.net Sat Jul 25 20:39:47 2009 From: khand1486 at earthlink.net (Kevin D. Hand) Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 22:39:47 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Door questions In-Reply-To: <107386.78798.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <107386.78798.qm@web57401.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6393E4FB-AC14-498E-8C88-4F26533DF6F6@earthlink.net> Depends on the piston (door ram cylinder) but I'm pretty sure you need a minimum of 90 psi to open the door. Kevin Sent from my iPhone On Jul 25, 2009, at 8:43 PM, Randy Houston wrote: > Howdy, > > What is the proper air pressure to maintain for the gullwing doors > air tank? > Will the doors open if the battery is dead but there is enough air > pressure? > > Thank You, > Randy > #1045 > Yucca Valley, CA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as khand1486 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wewenger at comcast.net Sun Jul 26 15:09:57 2009 From: wewenger at comcast.net (Ed Wenger) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 17:09:57 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Paint code question Message-ID: <83F3ED8F6C2C4CEFAB0767C5C26676D2@LENOVO5529EA61> Anyone know the paint code for the dark brown interior color on the doors and back hatch?? Ed Wenger 3295 Wayne Road Chambersburg, PA 17202-8804 717 263-5075 wewenger at comcast.net From khand1486 at earthlink.net Sun Jul 26 18:17:43 2009 From: khand1486 at earthlink.net (Kevin D. Hand) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:17:43 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Paint code question In-Reply-To: <83F3ED8F6C2C4CEFAB0767C5C26676D2@LENOVO5529EA61> References: <83F3ED8F6C2C4CEFAB0767C5C26676D2@LENOVO5529EA61> Message-ID: <45B9AA13-F1DB-4BD8-AEC5-C2AB3A79A4CF@earthlink.net> All I know is that it is referred to as Ginger. Have you contacted Terry Tanner to ask him? Kevin #462 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 26, 2009, at 5:09 PM, "Ed Wenger" wrote: > Anyone know the paint code for the dark brown interior color on the > doors and > back hatch?? > > Ed Wenger > 3295 Wayne Road > Chambersburg, PA 17202-8804 > 717 263-5075 > wewenger at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as khand1486 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From spanepinto at comcast.net Sun Jul 26 20:02:58 2009 From: spanepinto at comcast.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 22:02:58 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Paint code question References: <83F3ED8F6C2C4CEFAB0767C5C26676D2@LENOVO5529EA61> Message-ID: This is cut/pasted from an old email about interior colors... from John Blair: > The formula for interior paint is: > > Ginger A-5311 > PNT-90-100 > AT-176-443 > AT-141-522 > AT-174-597 > AT-190-631 > > 850-1000 Never tried to match it ( not yet, at least...). Smoky P Smoky Panepinto Perkiomenville, PA '75 Bricklin original owner (#1302 - Suntan) '63 Lincoln Convertible (Black/Maroon/White) ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Wenger To: Bricklin List Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 5:09 PM Subject: [Bricklin] Paint code question Anyone know the paint code for the dark brown interior color on the doors and back hatch?? Ed Wenger 3295 Wayne Road Chambersburg, PA 17202-8804 717 263-5075 wewenger at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as spanepinto at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From chuckscurr at yahoo.com Sun Jul 26 20:12:38 2009 From: chuckscurr at yahoo.com (Chuck Scurr) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:12:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] Paint code question In-Reply-To: <45B9AA13-F1DB-4BD8-AEC5-C2AB3A79A4CF@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <972746.28887.qm@web112406.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> RM "Rinsed Mason" was original supplier Delco/ Mongoose 425SS Torch Red Y2K 4 Sp Coupe in Honolulu Hawaii --- On Sun, 7/26/09, Kevin D. Hand wrote: From: Kevin D. Hand Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Paint code question To: "Ed Wenger" Cc: "Bricklin List" Date: Sunday, July 26, 2009, 6:17 PM All I know is that it is referred to as Ginger. Have you contacted Terry Tanner to ask him? Kevin #462 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 26, 2009, at 5:09 PM, "Ed Wenger" wrote: > Anyone know the paint code for the dark brown interior color on the doors and > back hatch?? > > Ed Wenger > 3295 Wayne Road > Chambersburg, PA 17202-8804 > 717 263-5075 > wewenger at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as khand1486 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as chuckscurr at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From Maycinc at cs.com Sun Jul 26 21:31:36 2009 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 23:31:36 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] Air door leak Message-ID: It looks like the leak is not in the compressor. I put a check valve in the line this weekend and it still leaks. I used kids bubble solution on all the fittings and no bubbles. So it's either a line or something else. Is there a way to check the solenoids or regulator? Marvin In a message dated 7/13/2009 1:26:48 PM Mountain Daylight Time, Isensee at aol.com writes: > assume you put soapy water on the connections. Leaks are often too slow > to hear, but the bubbles you get with soapy water help to give it away. The > control valves can leak too so be sure to check those. There is a reed > valve in the electric compressor that can leak. > > In addition to the soapy water, a leak detection technique that has worked > well for me is to put a little freon in the air tank and sniff around with > a freon leak detector. Those are extremely sensitive and will detect very > small leaks. > > > Scott From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Jul 28 05:50:42 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 07:50:42 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Meet Articles & Pictures Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090728074618.01d4fbb8@cox.net> Gang, Any of you that went to the National meet last week and have pictures, please send me copies. You can email them, but the pictures should NOT be edited or shurnk. Sizes of the pictures should be from about 700K up. So don't send more than about 5 pictures per email. I know this is a pain, so feel free to burn a CD of the pictures and snail mail them to me. If you are writting an article on your trip, or something that happened to you, etc, please let me know. Basically I start laying out the Oct issue on Aug 1st. It has to be out of my house to the printers by Sept 1st. I know this is a very short time. So, if I'm getting articles and pictures, I may hold them until the Jan issue to give people time to write the articles, etc. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From sk-svenkoch at gmx.de Tue Jul 28 12:31:57 2009 From: sk-svenkoch at gmx.de (Sven Koch) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 20:31:57 +0200 Subject: [Bricklin] Starter photo Message-ID: <4A6F441D.1000706@gmx.de> Hi, has anyone a photo of his starter (for the 351W)? Or could you take one of a dismounted starter and send it to me, please!! Thanks in advance, Greets from Geramny Sven #2224 From isensee at aol.com Tue Jul 28 12:48:37 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:48:37 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Starter photo In-Reply-To: <4A6F441D.1000706@gmx.de> References: <4A6F441D.1000706@gmx.de> Message-ID: <8CBDDCB26AD2DFA-9F4-199E@webmail-de16.sysops.aol.com> Here is a picture of one. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=487377 Scott -----Original Message----- From: Sven Koch To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2009 1:31 pm Subject: [Bricklin] Starter photo Hi,? ? has anyone a photo of his starter (for the 351W)?? ? Or could you take one of a dismounted starter and send it to me, please!!? ? Thanks in advance,? ? Greets from Geramny? ? Sven #2224? _______________________________________________? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? Bricklin at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin? ? You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com? ? http://www.team.net/archive? From jefftorrey at comcast.net Fri Jul 31 17:38:03 2009 From: jefftorrey at comcast.net (Jeffrey Torrey) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:38:03 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Northeast Vintage/Classic/Exotic Sports Car Show - Saturday August 22nd Message-ID: <53FC0926417E4B39A38D9A4365EDCB01@D9ZM03C1> Northeast Vintage/Classic/Exotic Sports Car Show - Saturday August 22nd Location: Budweiser Brewery, 221 Daniel Webster Highway, Merrimack, NH (website link for directions) http://www.budweisertours.com/toursMER.htm Date: Saturday August 22nd, 2009 Rain Date: Sunday August 23rd, 2009 Time:Show Cars - 8:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. Show Opens to the Public at 10:00 am Registration Fee for Show Cars $20.00 * All proceeds to benefit the New Hampshire Make-a-Wish Foundation. Show and Shine 10:00 -12:00 noon Voting 12:00 - 1:00 pm Peoples Choice Awards Presentation 2:00- 3:00pm Brewery and Stables are Open for Free Tours Food and Refreshments Available Sponsors and Vendors will be available to discuss your performance needs. Website Link for info related to this years car show: www.northeastexotic.com