From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Aug 1 00:01:24 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 01:01:24 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC Message-ID: <0DEE0E432242447688C60FBB92772CEC@greg> I have the engine firing regulary now, but when I try to set the timing I cannot get the timing mark to 5 BTDC. When rotating the distributor (clockwise) once it starts to get the TDC it starts running really sluggish and sometimes quites.. This was the same issue I had before the rebuild so I am at least at the same point. I was hoping to find something out of line as far as the timing marks during disassembly, but everythind was good. I tripled checked each mark to make sure everything was aligned during reassembly. So I believe since I am have the same issue before the rebuild with timing that I am at the same point that marking the distribritor would have gotten me. I am currently adjusting the timing based on how the engine sounds. I have removed the vacuum advance and have plugged the vacuum hose for this process. I can also set it based on vacuum which I hear is recommended for the best setting if you do not have a timing light. So what would I need to do for the timing marks to be correct when I set the timing? The thing that confuses me is if the distributor rotor should be on the number one wire when the number 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Does that indicate that the number one plug should have been fired or the next one to fire? If it is the next one it would seem based on the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order is that the rotor should be on the number two wire. If it should have already fired should the rotor be on the 8 wire? Sorry if I am driving everyone crazy with this, but I want to try to get everything right. Not having marks on the distributor/rotor for TDC setting like my Toyota makes this a manual hit and miss when setting the rotor. On my Toyota I have every mark correct and the timing with the timing light is perfect and it runs great. Just like to get the Bricklin that way also. Greg 0036 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Sat Aug 1 06:28:34 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 12:28:34 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC Message-ID: If it runs smooth without any missing or backfiring. I wouldn't worry about the degree marks at all. The damper ring may have slipped on the hub. Set it by vacuum and take it for a test drive. From lvphotogroup at cox.net Sat Aug 1 12:31:55 2009 From: lvphotogroup at cox.net (Larry Ankeny) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 11:31:55 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC References: <0DEE0E432242447688C60FBB92772CEC@greg> Message-ID: <008f01ca12d6$5a26e440$1400a8c0@editing> >The thing that confuses me is if the distributor rotor should be on > the number one wire when the number 1 piston is at TDC on the compression > stroke. Does that indicate that the number one plug should have been > fired > or the next one to fire? If it is the next one it would seem based on the > 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order is that the rotor should be on the number two > wire. If it should have already fired should the rotor be on the 8 wire? Greg, First, on a AMC the rotor rotates in a clockwise direction. (the same direction as clock). Theoretically you can place the number one wire on any of the connections on top of the distribtor cap. The cap doesn't know the difference. it just turns and supplies voltage from the coil (which is on all the time) and "distributes" it to the wires. You just need to put the wires in a certain order. Now whichever connection you use for the number 1 wire, the dist. MUST be turned so that the rotor is lined up with the number 1 connection when the first pistion is at TDC of the comprestion stroke. THATS IT. Once the first one is set, the rest follow suit. Now you just have to place the rest of the wires in the correct order. Going to the right of that first connection, attach the #8 wire, then the #4 goes to the right of that, and so on. To answer your question: If your timing light is connected to the number 1 spark plug or 1 spark plug wire, your timing light will light everytime the rotor strikes the number 1 wire making the number 1 spark plug fire. The next one to fire will be #8 then #4 and so on All the timing light does is light everytime the dist. puts voltage from the coil into the wire you have the light attached to. Signifying that the spark plug at the end of that wire should have fired. Now you know WHEN it is firing. The timing marks show you the position of the number one piston. "timing" is nothing more then getting the spark plug to fire when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke. I hope i didn't over simplify what is going on Reference Items: Firing Order AMC 360cid : 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor Rotation : Clockwise Drivers Side cylinder numbering (front to back) : 1 3 5 7 Passenger Side cylinders numbering (front to back) : 2 4 6 8 I hope the following diagram stays intact: Pass Driver 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 -> Rotation of distributor 5 7 6 O O 2 O O O O 3 O O 1 4 8 <- Rotation of distributor Larry in LV#2046 From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Aug 1 13:53:33 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:53:33 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Distributor Position at TDC References: <0DEE0E432242447688C60FBB92772CEC@greg> <008f01ca12d6$5a26e440$1400a8c0@editing> Message-ID: Thanks for all the responses. It looks like I will set the timing using vacuum for now. I had to do this before the rebuild and I guess nothing has changed. I believe I am pretty close since the engine starts and runs at the current setting, but getting it set to vacuum should get it dialed in. This engine sounds pretty mean right now, maybe more than I wanted it to. I have to get a drive shaft cut down and balanced to connect the 700R4 so I can take a test drive. One of the things of doing so many changes with no real way to know if they will work until you get everything back together is frightening. Here is a link to some of my rebuild photos. If anyone is interested. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Engine%20Rebuild/ Thanks again. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Aug 1 20:00:34 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 21:00:34 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Transmissiion Cooling Message-ID: <421D36F9291D4E95B9A6B4A547781924@greg> What is the best method for the transmission cooling? My current plan is to use the radiator and external cooler. Are there any issues with increased engine heat when using the radiator? Is it best to just use and external cooler? Getting ready to run my new lines and looking for some insight. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Aug 2 08:05:28 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 10:05:28 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Meet articles Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090802100244.01ce7038@cox.net> Ok gang, I'm laying out the Oct. issue of the magazine. If anyone has any pictures from the meet, please burn them to CD and email them to me ASAP. Also if anyone is writing an article about the meet, or a problem they had going or coming, etc, please let me know, and get it to me ASAP if you want it in the Oct issue. Anyone want to write a piece about The BricklinBoyz and the passing of Rick? Same thing. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Maycinc at cs.com Sun Aug 2 22:26:10 2009 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 00:26:10 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] Air Leak Update Message-ID: I'm still trying to track down the door air leak on ol' 1343. I put a check valve in the line to the compressor so that's not it. None of the fittings are leaking. The doors stay up even after the pressure bleeds down so it's not the solenoids. Thought it might be the pressure gauge but I put soap all over it and couldn't detect any leaks. So that leaves a leak in the regulator, water trap, or the line to the tank. Any idea how to see if it's the regulator? It's a rather slow leak as it takes at least 6 to 8 hours for the pressure to drop to zero. I guess 7 years with no leaks is a pretty good run. Marvin #1343 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Aug 3 07:49:03 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 09:49:03 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Transmissiion Cooling Message-ID: <2FE6EDB447084D7594A8AE020055EC51@work> IN general for transmission cooling it is best to use an external and internal cooler,the external first to take the most heat out and the then the internal to " regulate the heat, It will cool the fluid more in summer and heat the cold fluid in the winter. If you winter drive and use just an external cooler The fluid will never reach operating temperature. Now since almost no one winter drives their brick and external only cooler will be fine, the best is a plate style cooler such as the B&M coolers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70274/ stay away from the fin and tube type unless you are only using it as an auxiliary cooler. On 8/1/2009 10:00:34 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > What is the best method for the transmission cooling? My current plan is > to > use the radiator and external cooler. Are there any issues with > increased > engine heat when using the radiator? Is it best to just use and external > cooler? > > Getting ready to run my new lines and looking for some insight. > > Greg 0036 From jwmartin37 at avradionet.com Mon Aug 3 08:26:28 2009 From: jwmartin37 at avradionet.com (jwmartin37) Date: Mon, 03 Aug 2009 07:26:28 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 12.0/3.0] Air Leak Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Marvin, Those tanks that are in front of the rear bumper are not immune to air leaks. Not just the fittings. The welds too. They are not "factory made, or ASME" Also, for your info, a leak down of 6 hours is not a "slow leak" by any stretch of the imagination! Your max leak down should still open the door for at least a month. Check valves are notorious for leaking as they get blocked by debris or corrosion that prevent them from closing. They are also effected negatively by placement in the system too close to the heat source. Do not attach such a valve directly to the pump! (Use a stainless flex line that has the one way valve at the other end.) The pump probably has a check valve that is highly susceptible to leaking due to the associated heat. I do not recommend using "SOAP" . Y not splurge and buy a lifetime supply of kids bubble solution at WalMart for $1? Its bubbles are far longer lasting, and much more detectable after wetting a fitting that is a true slow leak. Good Luck, John W. Martin Vin 1973/0079 16754 E Ave X Space 25 Llano, Ca. 93544 661 944 4801/cell 317 9414 -----Original Message----- From: Maycinc at cs.com To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 00:26:10 EDT Subject: [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 12.0/3.0] [Bricklin] Air Leak Update I'm still trying to track down the door air leak on ol' 1343. I put a check valve in the line to the compressor so that's not it. None of the fittings are leaking. The doors stay up even after the pressure bleeds down so it's not the solenoids. Thought it might be the pressure gauge but I put soap all over it and couldn't detect any leaks. So that leaves a leak in the regulator, water trap, or the line to the tank. Any idea how to see if it's the regulator? It's a rather slow leak as it takes at least 6 to 8 hours for the pressure to drop to zero. I guess 7 years with no leaks is a pretty good run. Marvin #1343 Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin [http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin] You are subscribed as jwmartin37 at avradionet.com http://www.team.net/archive [http://www.team.net/archive] From Maycinc at cs.com Mon Aug 3 21:27:32 2009 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 23:27:32 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 12.0/3.0] Air Leak Update Message-ID: John, The check valve is new and I put it in the control box. Next time I air up the system I'm going to take the line off the compressor side of the valve to see if the valve is actually working. I've also thought about disconnecting the line that goes to the tank and hook up a vacuum pump but I don't know if I could get a good enough seal on the fitting. I've also thought about removing the pressure gauge and water trap. I should have clarified the Soap reference, I did use kids bubble solution. Marvin In a message dated 8/3/2009 8:26:50 AM Mountain Daylight Time, jwmartin37 at avradionet.com writes: > Check valves are notorious for leaking as they get blocked by debris or > corrosion that prevent them from closing. > I do not recommend using "SOAP" . Y not splurge and buy a lifetime supply of kids bubble solution at WalMart for $1? Its bubbles are far longer lasting, and much more detectable after wetting a fitting that is a true slow leak. From rick at hightechcoatings.com Tue Aug 4 05:13:01 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 07:13:01 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 12.0/3.0] Air Leak Update Message-ID: <462E3EDCB9664F2E81F0CDE202B3F098@work> since you have tried the obvious and not found the leak, simple paint everything with the bubble solution, The entire regulator the entire tank everything, then look for bubbles. you may find it is the lubricator or the regulator, I personally don't run a lubricator, I just lube the cylinders every spring with a quick squirt of AW32 in the upper port and call it done. On 8/3/2009 11:27:32 PM, maycinc at cs.com wrote: > John, > The check valve is new and I put it in the control box. Next time I air > up > the system > I'm going to take the line off the compressor side of the valve > to see if the valve is actually working. I've > also thought about > disconnecting the line that goes to the tank and hook up a vacuum pump but > I don't > know if I could get a good enough seal on the fitting. I've > also thought > about removing the pressure gauge and water trap. From gschroeder at comcast.net Tue Aug 11 09:32:53 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 10:32:53 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Replacement Shifters Message-ID: <8F221C512F7F4E278E3991F255E2FE01@greg> I have posted this question on the forum also, but normally get a quicker response from this email list. Has anyone replaced their stock automatic shifter with another kind of floor shifter? With the 700-r4 transmission replacement the stock shifter arm hits the top of the transmission. I was hoping to use the stock shifter, but looks like I will need a cable shift type. I need to find a suitable replacement that looks good and will fit over the stock shifter console and look decent. I am currently using a camaro shifter just to test drive the car, but it is to large to fit in to the space. Greg 0036 From maycinc at cs.com Wed Aug 12 12:52:32 2009 From: maycinc at cs.com (maycinc at cs.com) Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 14:52:32 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Air Leak Update Message-ID: <8CBE9952F2B0927-7B0-6DB@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com> I'm still trying to narrow down the air leak on ol' 1343.?? Here's what I've done so far: 1. installed a check valve in the control box on the line coming from the compressor so it's not the compressor or line from it. 2. checked all the connections several times with bubble soap - no visible leaks 3. disconnected the line from the tank and put a pressure gauge on it.? Zero pressure loss after 2 days so it's not the tank or the line from it. 4. It's not the solenoids or the door cylinders because the doors stay up even after the pressure drops. It still could be a leaking connection but after 7 years I'm thinking it might be the regulator.?? Is there a way to check it? Another strange thing is that the pressure drops from 120 lbs to 20 lbs in about 6-8 hours then it stays at 20 forever.? So, wherever it's leaking it takes more than 20 lbs to open the leak. Marvin ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From rick at hightechcoatings.com Wed Aug 12 13:42:13 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 15:42:13 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Air Leak Update Message-ID: <6056380B78C74A468460AF0FA6EE2581@work> Soap the snot out of the regulator and watch for bubbles,make sure you have high pressure though. It may be a small hole in the diaphragm that bleeds off the pressure On 8/12/2009 2:52:32 PM, maycinc at cs.com wrote: > I'm still trying to narrow down the air leak on ol' 1343.?? > Here's what I've done so far: > > 1. installed a check valve in the control box on the line coming from the > compressor so > it's not the compressor or line from it. > 2. checked all the connections several times with bubble soap - no visible leaks > 3. disconnected the line from the tank and put a pressure gauge on it.? Zero pressure loss after 2 days so it's > not the tank or the line from it. > 4. > It's not the solenoids or the door cylinders because the doors stay up even after the pressure drops. > > It still could be a leaking connection but after 7 years I'm > thinking it might be the regulator.?? Is there a way to check it? > Another strange thing is that the pressure drops from 120 lbs to 20 lbs in > about 6-8 hours then it stays at 20 forever.? So, wherever it's leaking it takes more than 20 lbs to open the leak. > > Marvin From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 12 16:55:12 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:55:12 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] Air Leak Update In-Reply-To: <8CBE9952F2B0927-7B0-6DB@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CBE9952F2B0927-7B0-6DB@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: im looking for rear leaf bushings 75 the one behing the seat not the ones near bumber ,,,man they were hard to get out ..lol anyone got part number or info for them tks serge > To: bricklin at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 14:52:32 -0400 > From: maycinc at cs.com > Subject: [Bricklin] Air Leak Update > > I'm still trying to narrow down the air leak on ol' 1343.?? Here's what I've done so far: > > 1. installed a check valve in the control box on the line coming from the compressor so it's not the compressor or line from it. > 2. checked all the connections several times with bubble soap - no visible leaks > 3. disconnected the line from the tank and put a pressure gauge on it.? Zero pressure loss after 2 days so it's not the tank or the line from it. > 4. It's not the solenoids or the door cylinders because the doors stay up even after the pressure drops. > > It still could be a leaking connection but after 7 years I'm thinking it might be the regulator.?? Is there a way to check it? > Another strange thing is that the pressure drops from 120 lbs to 20 lbs in about 6-8 hours then it stays at 20 forever.? So, wherever it's leaking it takes more than 20 lbs to open the leak. > > Marvin > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as serge.ber at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From isensee at aol.com Wed Aug 12 17:20:19 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 19:20:19 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Concours Message-ID: <8CBE9BA977F1356-A54-D0@webmail-dd02.sysops.aol.com> This Concours has a class for Bricklins. http://www.concoursdlemons.com/participants.html Scott From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 12 17:21:01 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge berube) Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 23:21:01 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] u joint 75 Message-ID: will need u joint for 75 any part numbers guy would be nice ..might save time on here finding them lol tks again serge From rick at hightechcoatings.com Thu Aug 13 12:09:55 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 14:09:55 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] u joint 75 Message-ID: dana 1310 u joint, used on just about rear drive every car in the 70's Did you loose the parts cross reference I sent you? On 8/12/2009 7:21:01 PM, serge berube (serge.ber at sympatico.ca) wrote: > will need u joint for 75 any part numbers guy would be nice ..might save > time > on here finding them lol tks again serge From maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 14 16:57:11 2009 From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com (google Eyes) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 22:57:11 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] Fotos 05/08 Message-ID: 7:56:49 PM Fotos 05/08 : Imagens anexadas: DSC_40.jpg - DSC_41.jpg - DSC_42.jpg _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive email from all of your webmail accounts. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9671356 From gmalaska at hotmail.com Tue Aug 18 14:19:39 2009 From: gmalaska at hotmail.com (George Malaska) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 16:19:39 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV Message-ID: Anybody catch the show "Psych" last Friday on USA? They walked into an airplane hanger and right next to a plane was a red Bricklin. If you looked away, you'd miss it, but no mistaking, it was a nice Bricklin. George. George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership Bricklin International Owners Club Cell: 216-374-2531 Home: 440-281-8468 From vcuffari at ups.com Tue Aug 18 14:36:46 2009 From: vcuffari at ups.com (vcuffari at ups.com) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 16:36:46 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: George, I must have replayed that scene at least 25 times! The Safety Red Bricklin is only visible for about 2 seconds! Also looked like a late 70's or early 80's vette to the left of the Bricklin? Regards, Vince #2000 & 1741 -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Malaska Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 4:20 PM To: Bricklin Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV Anybody catch the show "Psych" last Friday on USA? They walked into an airplane hanger and right next to a plane was a red Bricklin. If you looked away, you'd miss it, but no mistaking, it was a nice Bricklin. George. George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership Bricklin International Owners Club Cell: 216-374-2531 Home: 440-281-8468 Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as vcuffari at ups.com http://www.team.net/archive From tbar68 at optonline.net Tue Aug 18 17:06:59 2009 From: tbar68 at optonline.net (Tina Barrett) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:06:59 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV References: Message-ID: <7E217F300BF5418F879C9D4C810CCF1A@win2000> I wonder if you can see a replay of that show on HULU? ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Malaska" To: "Bricklin" Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 4:19 PM Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV > Anybody catch the show "Psych" last Friday on USA? They walked into an > airplane hanger and right next to a plane was a red Bricklin. If you > looked > away, you'd miss it, but no mistaking, it was a nice Bricklin. > George. > > George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership > Bricklin International Owners Club > Cell: 216-374-2531 > Home: 440-281-8468 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as tbar68 at optonline.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.60/2311 - Release Date: 08/18/09 06:03:00 No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.60/2311 - Release Date: 08/18/09 06:03:00 From sbunin at cablespeed.com Tue Aug 18 17:30:53 2009 From: sbunin at cablespeed.com (Seth) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:30:53 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A8B39AD.8020400@cablespeed.com> Yeah, I saw it, but it was gone so fast I made a note to check the online episode to confirm. Seth #1544 George Malaska wrote: > Anybody catch the show "Psych" last Friday on USA? They walked into an > airplane hanger and right next to a plane was a red Bricklin. If you looked > away, you'd miss it, but no mistaking, it was a nice Bricklin. > George. > > George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership > Bricklin International Owners Club > Cell: 216-374-2531 > Home: 440-281-8468 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as sbunin at cablespeed.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From sbunin at cablespeed.com Tue Aug 18 17:32:05 2009 From: sbunin at cablespeed.com (Seth) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:32:05 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV In-Reply-To: <7E217F300BF5418F879C9D4C810CCF1A@win2000> References: <7E217F300BF5418F879C9D4C810CCF1A@win2000> Message-ID: <4A8B39F5.6060509@cablespeed.com> Tina, USA network offers replays online of their episodes. Just go to www.usanetwork.com Seth #1544 Tina Barrett wrote: > I wonder if you can see a replay of that show on HULU? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "George Malaska" > To: "Bricklin" > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 4:19 PM > Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV > > > >> Anybody catch the show "Psych" last Friday on USA? They walked into an >> airplane hanger and right next to a plane was a red Bricklin. If you >> looked >> away, you'd miss it, but no mistaking, it was a nice Bricklin. >> George. >> >> George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership >> Bricklin International Owners Club >> Cell: 216-374-2531 >> Home: 440-281-8468 >> _______________________________________________ From dennikro at hotmail.com Wed Aug 19 06:00:36 2009 From: dennikro at hotmail.com (Dennis K.) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 07:00:36 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV In-Reply-To: <4A8B39F5.6060509@cablespeed.com> References: <7E217F300BF5418F879C9D4C810CCF1A@win2000> <4A8B39F5.6060509@cablespeed.com> Message-ID: It's on the USA network site mentioned and it's shown at 18:45 into the show. > Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:32:05 -0400 > From: sbunin at cablespeed.com > To: tbar68 at optonline.net > CC: Bricklin at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV > > Tina, > > USA network offers replays online of their episodes. Just go to > www.usanetwork.com > > Seth > #1544 > > Tina Barrett wrote: > > I wonder if you can see a replay of that show on HULU? > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "George Malaska" > > To: "Bricklin" > > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 4:19 PM > > Subject: [Bricklin] BRICKLIN ON TV > > > > > > > >> Anybody catch the show "Psych" last Friday on USA? They walked into an > >> airplane hanger and right next to a plane was a red Bricklin. If you > >> looked > >> away, you'd miss it, but no mistaking, it was a nice Bricklin. > >> George. > >> > >> George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership > >> Bricklin International Owners Club > >> Cell: 216-374-2531 > >> Home: 440-281-8468 > >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as dennikro at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you. http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1 From wewenger at comcast.net Wed Aug 19 20:48:40 2009 From: wewenger at comcast.net (Ed Wenger) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:48:40 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Things needed for 1974 Bricklin Message-ID: <75D13026338D40008EE93D27CE09BD7E@LENOVO5529EA61> Bought a nice 1974 Bricklin which needs the following: AC Compressor, brackets and pulleys to mount to the AMC engine. Some one removed these earlier. Rest of AC system is intact. Drivers side door panel with armrest. Mine is split wide open and pinches the arm. Not so nice. Any help appreciated. Ed Ed Wenger 3295 Wayne Road Chambersburg, PA 17202-8804 717 263-5075 wewenger at comcast.net From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Aug 19 21:06:25 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:06:25 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Things needed for 1974 Bricklin References: <75D13026338D40008EE93D27CE09BD7E@LENOVO5529EA61> Message-ID: <80F146A0E52D48D3B5E128088F70ABBF@greg> Ed, I have seen the mounting bracket on ebay under AMC, the pulley itself can be purchased at a local auto parts(I believe that is a Murphy part). The bracket that holds the pulley I have not noticed, but could be on ebay also. Mainly search AMC and Jeep for those parts. Greg 0036 From glcurley at aol.com Wed Aug 19 21:13:33 2009 From: glcurley at aol.com (George Curley) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 23:13:33 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Things needed for 1974 Bricklin In-Reply-To: <75D13026338D40008EE93D27CE09BD7E@LENOVO5529EA61> References: <75D13026338D40008EE93D27CE09BD7E@LENOVO5529EA61> Message-ID: <4A8CBF5D.1010704@aol.com> Congratulations on the purchase. Is it a '74 or '75 door panel? The fact that it's "split" sounds more symptomatic of a '75 door panel. What kind of mounting scheme is used for the panel, and is the padding on the panel soft or firm? Is the passenger side door panel the same type? I don't know anything about the availability of the original AC bracket and pulleys. Compressors should be available, as I have bought a couple of them within the past 10 yrs. You might need a new dryer and evap. as well. Are you trying to keep it the original, R-12 size system? George #670 Ed Wenger wrote: > Bought a nice 1974 Bricklin which needs the following: > > AC Compressor, brackets and pulleys to mount to the AMC engine. Some one > removed these earlier. Rest of AC system is intact. > > Drivers side door panel with armrest. Mine is split wide open and pinches the > arm. Not so nice. > > Any help appreciated. > > Ed > > Ed Wenger > 3295 Wayne Road > Chambersburg, PA 17202-8804 > 717 263-5075 > wewenger at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ From cutright at eoni.com Wed Aug 19 22:38:19 2009 From: cutright at eoni.com (cutright at eoni.com) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 21:38:19 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 fan shroud Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20090819210228.01ff13c0@pop3.eoni.com> Hi Guys, The fan shroud is broken on my 75 Bricklin. I was wondering what the AMC exchange car or part would be. It is a 24 inch triple core radiator. Merv Cutright #1349 and #2009. From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Aug 19 23:08:05 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 00:08:05 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 fan shroud References: <5.1.0.14.0.20090819210228.01ff13c0@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: The radiator is from a 74 Matador, but I am not sure about the shroud. Seems like that would be the same with the Matador 5.9L 360 4v. Greg 0036 > Hi Guys, The fan shroud is broken on my 75 Bricklin. I was wondering what > the AMC exchange car or part would be. It is a 24 inch triple core > radiator. > Merv Cutright #1349 and #2009. > _______________________________________________ From jblair1948 at cox.net Thu Aug 20 05:08:21 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 07:08:21 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 fan shroud In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20090819210228.01ff13c0@pop3.eoni.com> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20090819210228.01ff13c0@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090820070603.01d40ed0@cox.net> At 12:38 AM 8/20/2009, cutright at eoni.com wrote: >Hi Guys, The fan shroud is broken on my 75 Bricklin. I was wondering what the >AMC exchange car or part would be. It is a 24 inch triple core radiator. Merv, I've be told that the shrouds are Bricklin specific. If you take it out, and look around on it, you should see a some writing. If it says Bricklin, then it is unique to Bricklin. You might want to try and fix it with some epoxy or some Aluminumn flashing and pop rivits. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From rick at hightechcoatings.com Thu Aug 20 05:25:26 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 07:25:26 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 fan shroud Message-ID: <87D89CD6CFC14515AF107525A1A29539@work> I believe they are abs plastic and can be welded back together with a soldering gun. just get the flat tip used for cutting rope and it works great. Rick > > I've be told that the shrouds are Bricklin specific. If you take it > out, and look > around on it, you should see a some writing. If it says Bricklin, > then it is unique > to Bricklin. You might want to try and fix it with some epoxy or > some Aluminumn > flashing and pop rivits. > > John From bricklin0095 at aol.com Thu Aug 20 17:31:10 2009 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:31:10 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] 75 fan shroud In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20090819210228.01ff13c0@pop3.eoni.com> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20090819210228.01ff13c0@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: <8CBF0056ED5F747-D94-348A@webmail-me05.sysops.aol.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1974-AMC-Matador-Ambassador-V8-Fan-Shroud-3217435_W0QQitemZ200348066091QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea5ace12b&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116 This is one is listed on e-bay now.. It looks similar, kinda hard to tell. -----Original Message----- From: cutright at eoni.com To: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Aug 20, 2009 12:38 am Subject: [Bricklin] 75 fan shroud Hi Guys, The fan shroud is broken on my 75 Bricklin. I was wondering what the AMC exchange car or part would be. It is a 24 inch triple core radiator.? Merv Cutright #1349 and #2009.? _______________________________________________? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? Bricklin at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin? ? You are subscribed as bricklin0095 at aol.com? ? http://www.team.net/archive? From breton48 at live.com Fri Aug 21 15:40:42 2009 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 15:40:42 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Transmission questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well, I am finally to the point I can drive my 1975 SV1 for more than 6 to 14 miles without breaking down! My Bricklin had problems with fuel starvation. With a cleaned and lined fuel tank (with drain plug added), new rubber fuel lines, two new fuel filters, and several cleanings of the carburetor, the problem seems to be solved! This morning, I went to a LBC car club breakfast, and that run was over 32 miles. I made it there and back! By the way, I read all I could about dropping the fuel tank - the one thing I cannot remember mentioned was that taking the rear bumper off made reconnecting the rubber filler hose to the tank much easier. Now I would like to add a little "driveability" to the car, as most of my driving here will be on open roads with relatively high speeds (55/60/65 mph local roads, up to 75 mph freeways). I was thinking of putting a rebuilt AOD in it, or a Gear Vendor overdrive. A local shop quoted me from $4000 to $5000 (including transmission) for replacing the FMX with an AOD, which seems a little high? The quoted price for the rebuilt transmission alone is $1800, which is what I expected. Gear Vendors do have a unit for the FMX, price is $2695 plus shipping. Is there anyone on this forum who has put a Gear Vendor unit in their Bricklin? The third option is to put a T5 in it... I assume the T5 top gear is an overdrive? I also assume that would be more involved than putting an AOD, and I don't know where I could find a suitable set of pedals and all the other "bits" without getting a "donor car". I believe a few forum members have put in a T5 in their 1975 SV1s, and would welcome their input. JLC in the Black Forest near Colorado Springs From Maycinc at cs.com Sun Aug 23 21:40:43 2009 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 23:40:43 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] A/C Connections Message-ID: Ok, I'm finally attempting to put the a/c back in ol' 1343 and have a couple of questions. 1. There are 2 wires coming out of the wiring loom. 1 with a flat connector and one with a round connector. I can see that the round ones connects to the a/c clutch but where does the flat one go? (there is also a 3rd wire with a slotted connector that goes on the temp sender). 2. Which fittings do the hoses connect to on the compressor? Does the one coming from the firewall connect to the top or bottom fitting? 3. Should I switch to R134 or go with one of the R12 substitutes? If so, which one? 4. What is the capacity of the a/c system? Marvin #1343 From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Aug 29 17:36:07 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 18:36:07 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue Message-ID: <6974997AD75643B5BA510CC07051BD7F@greg> I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge when I was getting ready to leave for a local car show or at least I thought that was the problem. Since the oil pressure was fine when I had backed out of the garage earlier today I thought it may be the sensor. Checked the oil and it was fine. I had to go and get some gas before heading down the road. The car drove fine with no apparent issues. I stopped the engine to pump gas and it was very hard to start and the exhaust did not sound correct. So instead of heading to the show I decided to head home. After about a block the oil pressure gauge started working again and the engine sounded normal. After getting back to the house I am hearing the valves click when the engine is running. Any idea of why the oil pump would quit working? If damaged was caused what should I look for? Greg 0036 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Sun Aug 30 03:15:11 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 05:15:11 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue Message-ID: <52030137CCFE4626B60463272D8C2AD6@work> Greg the amc oil pumps suck! a couple of thing s to check is for scores in the housing and end play on the gears. I do not know off hand what the clearances are but they are very important with the amc pump. If the housing is scored you will need to replace the entire timing cover, AN OEM original housing will be in the 400-500 range IF you can find one. You can get a crown reproduction for less but the quality is sometimes spotty. also check the drive gear on the distributor since it drives the oil pump. if the timing gear on the cam wasn't perfect and had the usual flash on it the distributor drive gear will either not sit straight and wobble or not get the right amount of oil on it and wear causing a loss of oil pressure. If you have good oil pressure when cold, but low when warm it is usually a endplay or gear clearance problem. if there are scores or wear on the end plate of the pump (where the hoses attach) then it will need to resurfaced or a "wearplate" installed. if you go to bulltear.com forums they have a pretty good amc forum there and had a big section on oil pumps and cam gear issues. http://bulltear.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=25&sid=3a4f9e2e8494268c5020b0f3994 cfc2d Hopefully it is just a clearance issue you can cure with a new wearplate and gasket, If you cant do a quick fix for the pressure unfortunately you will pulling the engine again to check your bearing clearance as the bearings may have already been damaged. sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Rick On 8/29/2009 7:36:07 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge when I was getting ready to > leave > for a local car show or at least I thought that was the problem. Since > the > oil pressure was fine when I had backed out of the garage earlier today > I > thought it may be the sensor. Checked the oil and it was fine. I had to > go > and get some gas before heading down the road. The car drove fine with > no > apparent issues. I stopped the engine to pump gas and it was very hard > to > start and the exhaust did not sound correct. So instead of heading to > the > show I decided to head home. After about a block the oil pressure gauge > started working again and the engine sounded normal. After getting back > to > the house I am hearing the valves click when the engine is running. > > Any idea of why the oil pump would quit working? > > If damaged was caused what should I look for? > > Greg 0036 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as rick at hightechcoatings.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From rick at hightechcoatings.com Sun Aug 30 03:21:23 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 05:21:23 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue Message-ID: <31CDE777113F47E4B03F3FA281C1035A@work> I'm not sure the filter you are using but if it is a fram I would start by changing it to a wix or napa filter first. I'm not sure if there is a bypass in the remote housing but if there is it should be eliminated as that may be your issue. first and easiest check is the filter! On 8/29/2009 7:36:07 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge when I was getting ready to > leave From drgautreau at comcast.net Sun Aug 30 05:58:55 2009 From: drgautreau at comcast.net (Dennis Gautreau) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 07:58:55 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue In-Reply-To: <6974997AD75643B5BA510CC07051BD7F@greg> Message-ID: <000701ca2969$404af6c0$0202a8c0@dennisd325cb0c> By the sounds of what happened, and the fact that you re-gained oil pressure again, I would guess that there is a spring loaded ball (like most oil pumps) that regulates the pressure. If the ball gets stuck open, oil pressure will drop and not feed the engine correctly. The fact that it came back would lead me to believe that the spring and ball mechanism was in fact stuck and then went back to normal operating position. I would definitely check the oil pump. Dennis 0901 -----Original Message----- From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Schroeder Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 7:36 PM To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge when I was getting ready to leave for a local car show or at least I thought that was the problem. Since the oil pressure was fine when I had backed out of the garage earlier today I thought it may be the sensor. Checked the oil and it was fine. I had to go and get some gas before heading down the road. The car drove fine with no apparent issues. I stopped the engine to pump gas and it was very hard to start and the exhaust did not sound correct. So instead of heading to the show I decided to head home. After about a block the oil pressure gauge started working again and the engine sounded normal. After getting back to the house I am hearing the valves click when the engine is running. Any idea of why the oil pump would quit working? If damaged was caused what should I look for? Greg 0036 Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as drgautreau at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Aug 30 07:23:25 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 08:23:25 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue References: <31CDE777113F47E4B03F3FA281C1035A@work> Message-ID: <2B1FD0827C034D30AF44AA4952493DA2@greg> Rick, Thanks for the information in the other email. I have some checking to do. As far as the filter this is the second reference I have heard about not using a Fram filter. I am using a WIX basically since I like the look of the black under the hood, but at the time for no other reason. Sounds like Fram should be avoided. Greg 0036 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick at High Tech Coatings" To: "bl" Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2009 4:21 AM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue > I'm not sure the filter you are using but if it is a fram I would start by > changing it to a wix or napa filter first. I'm not sure if there is a > bypass > in the remote housing but if there is it should be eliminated as that may > be > your issue. first and easiest check is the filter! > > On 8/29/2009 7:36:07 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: >> I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge when I was getting ready to >> leave > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as gschroeder at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Aug 30 18:50:04 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 19:50:04 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue Message-ID: After going back through all the changes in my head since I last drove the car. I may have over torqued the oil pump cover since it is in inch pounds unlike just about any other bolt. I had one remaining leak that I was trying to address where one screw is leaking on the cover. I am trying my best to not have any leaks and since I am guessing at the torque in inch pounds I may have tightened it to much. I am draining the oil and will remove the oil pump cover check to make sure it is not damaged as well as the oil pump gears and distributor gear. I had a high power microwave magnet on the bottom of the pan near the oil plug. I will check the oil for any metal fragments and also run a wire across the bottom of the pan with a magnet to make sure nothing remains there. I am also removing the valve covers to check for any issues there. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will update you on my progress or issues found. Greg 0036 From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Aug 31 01:02:45 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 02:02:45 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue Message-ID: <19C48FC31E1240E290BA6D0C608F5BCB@greg> OK, update on this issue. I checked the valves and had one roller rocker stud loosen. This explains the valve clicking issue I was hearing. No issues with the other valves or push rods. I drained the oil and removed the filter. I dragged the bottom of the pan with a flared piece of brake line pulling out remaining oil. I have not seen or felt any debris at this point. I will proabably filter the oil and see if there is anything there tomorrow. I have already replaced the filter. I went ahead and purchased an oil pump repair kit (I probably should have done this when I did the engine rebuild). It has the drive shafter, idler gear, oil pressure relief valve and relief spring. When removing the spring the valve piece would not budge. The shaft was filled with sludge/hardened oil. It took a while to get it removed and clean the shaft where the valve would travel the entire shaft without getting stuck. So I do not believe this piece was actually moving at all. It may have moved a little when the engine was up to temp. I have installed the new valve and spring. I am waiting until tomorrow to install the new oil pump drive shaft gear and ider arm since the instructions wanted it soaked in oil before installation. I will use petroleum jelly to hold them in place during assembly as indicated in the AMC service manual . So if all goes well I will complete assembly sometime tomorrow and fill with new oil. I was hoping to get a few hundred miles of break in before replacing the oil, but I have run the engine for a while trying to cure the paint and see if there were any issues while trying to get the transmission ready. Thanks again for the suggestions. Everything is worth checking just to make sure there are not any issues. I will now stick with the WIX filters for another reason other than the color. Greg 0036 From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Aug 31 05:15:07 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 07:15:07 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue In-Reply-To: <19C48FC31E1240E290BA6D0C608F5BCB@greg> References: <19C48FC31E1240E290BA6D0C608F5BCB@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090831071258.01d40578@cox.net> At 03:02 AM 8/31/2009, Greg wrote: >OK, update on this issue. I checked the valves and had one roller rocker stud >loosen. This explains the valve clicking issue I was hearing. No issues with the >other valves or push rods...... Greg, Sorry to hear about your problem with the oil pressure. Sounds like you are on the correct path with the oil pump. Good luck. Got our finger crossed that that's all it was. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Aug 31 20:08:44 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:08:44 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Oil Pressure Issue Message-ID: Completed the oil pump, spring and valve change. Oil pressure is normal at this point. Took a short drive around the block and let the engine get up to tempreture while making timing and carb adjustements. Hopefully this will keep the problem from occurring again. Will be checking for leaks again also since the valve covers and the oil pump were areas that I had leaks. I had resolved the valve cover leaks, but had to pull them to check the valve knocking sound. Greg 0036