From klasicars at mywdo.com Wed Apr 1 07:07:05 2009 From: klasicars at mywdo.com (klasicars) Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 08:07:05 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] AOD Conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49D37509.5090405@mywdo.com> /Get the October 2005 issue of Brickline and check the article regarding an AOD swap. Depending on your abilities and available tools it is not a difficult project. Don #1880 / Maycinc at cs.com wrote: > I'm thinking of putting an AOD in my '75. What is involved in the swap? > Marvin > #1343 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as klasicars at mywdo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From breton48 at live.com Wed Apr 1 08:08:42 2009 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 09:08:42 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] AOD Conversion In-Reply-To: <49D37509.5090405@mywdo.com> References: <49D37509.5090405@mywdo.com> Message-ID: I am also contemplating the AOD conversion. Where can we get the October 2005 issue? Could someone scan and email us the article? I purchased the DVD with scanned Brickline past issues from the Club, but the last one on the disc is October 2004, and I was not a member till I acquired my Bricklin in late 2007. JLC #2121 Don wrote: /Get the October 2005 issue of Brickline and check the article regarding an AOD swap. Depending on your abilities and available tools it is not a difficult project. Maycinc at cs.com wrote: > I'm thinking of putting an AOD in my '75. What is involved in the swap? > Marvin > #1343 From paul-amo at comcast.net Wed Apr 1 21:00:10 2009 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 00:00:10 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] AOD Conversion In-Reply-To: References: <49D37509.5090405@mywdo.com> Message-ID: <49D4384A.5010105@comcast.net> From maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 2 04:55:57 2009 From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com (google Eyes) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:55:57 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] por 15 chassis coat Message-ID: The por 15 chassis coat is very thick to paint on any way to thin it out . I,m looking to get a similar finish to the por 15 the por 15 went on great its very easy to work with . I used a foam roller for the flat surfaces . . I have put on the etching primer . The chassis coat is not as easy to work with it won,t roll without leaving streaks . How bad does the por 15 fade if i had my choice over i would have left the por 15 with covering it over with anything . Derrick _________________________________________________________________ Internet Explorer 8 helps keep your personal info safe. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655581 From serge.ber at sympatico.ca Tue Apr 7 06:03:43 2009 From: serge.ber at sympatico.ca (serge) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 08:03:43 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] blueprint of frame and specs Message-ID: <39DBFA500FB54FE3BA97F4A3A77995B8@ericc8clemb3ij> would anyone have a copy of frame blueprint with spec? not asking for much hey lol never know would be nice to have ..tks serge [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.43/2043 - Release Date: 04/06/09 06:22:00 From gschroeder at comcast.net Fri Apr 10 08:54:35 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 09:54:35 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Motor Mounts - Polyurethane vs. Rubber Message-ID: <0802D1F32E934DDE855093C1A6BFC900@greg> I am in the process of searching for motor mounts. I know there is a difference in price and material, but what are the advantages of Polyurethane vs. Rubber motor mounts. Greg 0036 From jwmartin37 at avradionet.com Fri Apr 10 09:43:46 2009 From: jwmartin37 at avradionet.com (jwmartin37) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 08:43:46 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 06.7/3.0] Motor Mounts - Polyurethane vs. Rubber In-Reply-To: <0802D1F32E934DDE855093C1A6BFC900@greg> References: <0802D1F32E934DDE855093C1A6BFC900@greg> Message-ID: Guys, I know that there are "advantages" to the poly product, but can U live with the SQUEAKS? John W. Martin Vin 1973/0079 16754 E Ave X Space 25 Llano, Ca. 93544 661 944 4801/cell 317 9414 -----Original Message----- From: "Greg Schroeder" To: Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 09:54:35 -0500 Subject: [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 06.7/3.0] [Bricklin] Motor Mounts - Polyurethane vs. Rubber I am in the process of searching for motor mounts. I know there is a difference in price and material, but what are the advantages of Polyurethane vs. Rubber motor mounts. Greg 0036 Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin [http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin] You are subscribed as jwmartin37 at avradionet.com http://www.team.net/archive [http://www.team.net/archive] From breton48 at live.com Fri Apr 10 10:24:02 2009 From: breton48 at live.com (JLC) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 10:24:02 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Motor Mounts - Polyurethane vs. Rubber In-Reply-To: References: <0802D1F32E934DDE855093C1A6BFC900@greg> Message-ID: Hi... Polyurethane mounts are usually much stiffer than rubber, so they hold the drive train in place better. Because they are stiffer, they also cause more noise and vibration than rubber mounts. Rubber mounts are softer and will cause less noise and vibration than the Polyurethane mounts. They will not last as long as Polyurethane mounts, especially if oil leaks onto them. JLC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------- From: "Greg Schroeder" I am in the process of searching for motor mounts. I know there is a difference in price and material, but what are the advantages of Polyurethane vs. Rubber motor mounts. From bricklin0095 at aol.com Fri Apr 10 16:29:49 2009 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:29:49 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rubber vs poly. Message-ID: <8CB8842FE750218-152C-D7D@WEBMAIL-MA08.sysops.aol.com> Johns right, the poly bushings have a tendency to squeak/groan loudly at times.. I tried them on the front sway bar and found that cutting an antifreeze jug and wrapping the plastic around the bar before sliding the bushing on was the only way to permanently quiet it.. One thing that I reccomend for any one replacing the motor mounts on the 74's is to drill a hole through the mount and install a 3/8 bolt. this will keep the mount from separating at the rubber while allowing the rubber to ablsorb the vibations. From isensee at aol.com Fri Apr 10 16:48:17 2009 From: isensee at aol.com (isensee at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:48:17 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] rubber vs poly. In-Reply-To: <8CB8842FE750218-152C-D7D@WEBMAIL-MA08.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB8842FE750218-152C-D7D@WEBMAIL-MA08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CB884593316872-14F8-740@MBLK-M20.sysops.aol.com> If you are worried about how long they last, the rubber motor mounts on my cars have usually been good for 30-40 years. Scott -----Original Message----- From: bricklin0095 at aol.com To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 5:29 pm Subject: [Bricklin] rubber vs poly. Johns right, the poly bushings have a tendency to squeak/groan loudly at times.. I tried them on the front sway bar and found that cutting an antifreeze jug and wrapping the plastic around the bar before sliding the bushing on was the only way to permanently quiet it..? ? One thing that I reccomend for any one replacing the motor mounts on the 74's is to drill a hole through the mount and install a 3/8 bolt. this will keep the mount from separating at the rubber while allowing the rubber to ablsorb the vibations.? _______________________________________________? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? Bricklin at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin? ? You are subscribed as isensee at aol.com? ? http://www.team.net/archive? From gschroeder at comcast.net Mon Apr 13 14:38:06 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 15:38:06 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Painting Aluminum Intake Message-ID: <9E49FF17B8A14B5B99D81746F091A3E6@greg> Thanks for the information on motor mounts. I am going with rubber. Do not want the extras noise or vibration associated with poly. I have purchased a new Edelbrock intake and before making this purchase I had noticed a lot of used intakes that appear to be stained. From Edelbrocks site they indicate this is a normal occurrence. So should this be painted to prevent the staining of the aluminum? Any issues related to painting these? I had also heard of painting the bottom of the intake flat black to allow the intake to run cooler and provide more horsepower. Anyone ever tried this? I know it was referenced on an episode of Horsepower TV, but I cannot seem to find the reference. Greg 0036 From bricklin0095 at aol.com Tue Apr 14 16:57:42 2009 From: bricklin0095 at aol.com (bricklin0095 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 18:57:42 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] intake manifold.. Message-ID: <8CB8B6B8D4E1024-180-109B@FWM-M39.sysops.aol.com> I also used the performer from Edelbrock. I used normal engine paint on the top side to match the engine as I like to keep the stock appearance... It holds up just fine. No prep was used.. On the A.M.C s they used a sheetmetal pan underneath the intake as part of the gasket set.. If this is not used you MUST put a baffle under the P.C.V. hole to keep oil from getting sucked up into the engine.. From sbunin at cablespeed.com Tue Apr 14 18:33:42 2009 From: sbunin at cablespeed.com (Seth) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:33:42 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Painting Aluminum Intake In-Reply-To: <9E49FF17B8A14B5B99D81746F091A3E6@greg> References: <9E49FF17B8A14B5B99D81746F091A3E6@greg> Message-ID: <49E52B66.6030002@cablespeed.com> Greg, I've got an Edelbrock intake on my new motor (still not in the car yet). The motor has sat on the engine stand for a year (I know, I know...) I clear coated all the parts except the intake figuring it wouldn't need anything. I can attest to the thing "staining". I now have to pull it off, clean it up, and clear coat it. If you're going this route, I highly recommend some sort of protective coating. Seth #1544 Greg Schroeder wrote: > > I have purchased a new Edelbrock intake and before making this purchase I had > noticed a lot of used intakes that appear to be stained. From Edelbrocks site > they indicate this is a normal occurrence. So should this be painted to > prevent the staining of the aluminum? Any issues related to painting these? > > > Greg 0036 From spanepinto at comcast.net Wed Apr 22 19:16:01 2009 From: spanepinto at comcast.net (Smoky & Connie Panepinto) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 21:16:01 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Concours D'Elegance Message-ID: Fellow "B"lievers, I am happy to report that a Bricklin has been accepted into the Concours D'Elegance of the Eastern US to be held in Bethlehem, PA on Sunday, May 31st. Their website - www.concourseast.org/default.shtml Does anyone know if a 'B' has been invited into a Concours before? I'm not; either way, it is a very good thing for the marque... and yes, John; I promise to put something together for the Brickline afterward. FYI, a friend of mine from the LCOC (Lincoln Continental Owner's Club) sits on the board of this Concours committee. He took an interest in the Bricklin and asked me to help him nominate it for the Concours. If you never experienced this type of car show, it is very cool...complete with a parade of the invited cars, with an announced description of each car. Flying high, Smoky Panepinto Smoky Panepinto Perkiomenville, PA '75 Bricklin original owner (#1302 - Suntan) '63 Lincoln Convertible (Black/Maroon/White) From khand1486 at earthlink.net Wed Apr 22 20:04:49 2009 From: khand1486 at earthlink.net (Kevin D. Hand) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 19:04:49 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Concours D'Elegance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <910B342F-638A-43DA-8BD9-83C202F5818A@earthlink.net> I'm pretty sure that Sandy Bigman has had his red car in a big concours out in CA. Kevin Sent from my iPhone On Apr 22, 2009, at 6:16 PM, "Smoky & Connie Panepinto" wrote: > Fellow "B"lievers, > > I am happy to report that a Bricklin has been accepted into the > Concours > D'Elegance of the Eastern US to be held in Bethlehem, PA on Sunday, > May 31st. > Their website - www.concourseast.org/default.shtml > > > Does anyone know if a 'B' has been invited into a Concours before? > I'm not; > either way, it is a very good thing for the marque... and yes, John; > I promise > to put something together for the Brickline afterward. > > FYI, a friend of mine from the LCOC (Lincoln Continental Owner's > Club) sits on > the board of this Concours committee. He took an interest in the > Bricklin and > asked me to help him nominate it for the Concours. If you never > experienced > this type of car show, it is very cool...complete with a parade of > the invited > cars, with an announced description of each car. > > Flying high, > Smoky Panepinto > > Smoky Panepinto > Perkiomenville, PA > > '75 Bricklin original owner > (#1302 - Suntan) > '63 Lincoln Convertible > (Black/Maroon/White) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Bricklin at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > You are subscribed as khand1486 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From cutright at eoni.com Thu Apr 23 23:33:17 2009 From: cutright at eoni.com (cutright at eoni.com) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 22:33:17 -0700 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin headlights Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20090423222637.00c58550@pop3.eoni.com> Hi Guys, I just got my Bricklin 1349 running after several years of setting and an interesting thing happened. First the right headlight popped up and then after a couple of minutes the left headlight popped up. Both headlights come on with the switch but will not retract. What I would like to know is: Do the headlights go up and down with the switch? Is there a plugged vent somewhere? Where is a good place to start looking to get them to retract? Merv Cutright From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri Apr 24 05:15:34 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 07:15:34 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin headlights In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20090423222637.00c58550@pop3.eoni.com> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20090423222637.00c58550@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20090424070905.02039ae8@cox.net> At 01:33 AM 4/24/2009, cutright at eoni.com wrote: >Bricklin 1349 running after several years of setting and an interesting thing >happened. First the right headlight popped up and then after a couple of >minutes the left headlight popped up. Both headlights come on with the switch >but will not retract. >What I would like to know is: Do the headlights go up and down with the >switch? Is there a plugged vent somewhere? Where is a good place to start >looking to get them to retract? Merv, Yes, the headlights are supposed to go up, when you turn on the headlight switch, and close when you turn the head lights off. There is a little bypass switch to the right of the steering column which will let the headlights open but not close. So someone could have opened that. The headlights are vacuum operated, so if they don't go down it could be as simple as a disconnected vacuum line. You'll need to check your lines for cracks, or disconnected lines. If that doesn't work, you'll need to check the relay(s) mounted on the front of the front fender wells. One line is the vacuum input line, then the other 2 lines are used to send vacuum to the actuactors to pull their rod back and open the headlights, or push the rod forward to close the headlights. Also it could be that your vacuum tank is leaking. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri Apr 24 13:22:37 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 15:22:37 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin headlights In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20090424095141.00c58780@pop3.eoni.com> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20090423222637.00c58550@pop3.eoni.com> <5.1.0.14.0.20090423222637.00c58550@pop3.eoni.com> <5.1.0.14.0.20090424095141.00c58780@pop3.eoni.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20090424152204.01ca7670@cox.net> At 12:55 PM 4/24/2009, you wrote: >The switch under the dash had vacuum line unplugged. I plugged it back in and >now the headlights are going up and down correctly. I was able to get to the >web sight and get the diagram. Merv, Man, we love the easy ones!!!! John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Fri Apr 24 18:07:47 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 19:07:47 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings Message-ID: OK, have everything ready for my rebuild. Installed the mains, new bearings and new rear main seal. While reading the AMC Technical reference manual it indicates the size of the rod bearings are different. Mainly using standard and undersized depending on the color on the crank. I have not found the color markings yet. Has anyone run into this before? If so, where do you get undersized bearings or how did you get it resolved. Picked up my heads from the machine shop today and I am kind of stuck on the rod bearing issue. I bought some plastigage today to see if the standards will work. Greg 0036 From gmalaska at hotmail.com Fri Apr 24 18:40:45 2009 From: gmalaska at hotmail.com (George Malaska) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 20:40:45 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Greg, if you have the old bearings, look at the backside of them. If they are undersized, it should give the size, eg; -010, -020 etc. You can also mike the crank journals to see if they are standard or undersized. If all is close, use the plastigage to ensure that you have the proper clearances. Hope this helps. George ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Schroeder To: Bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 8:07 PM Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings OK, have everything ready for my rebuild. Installed the mains, new bearings and new rear main seal. While reading the AMC Technical reference manual it indicates the size of the rod bearings are different. Mainly using standard and undersized depending on the color on the crank. I have not found the color markings yet. Has anyone run into this before? If so, where do you get undersized bearings or how did you get it resolved. Picked up my heads from the machine shop today and I am kind of stuck on the rod bearing issue. I bought some plastigage today to see if the standards will work. Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as gmalaska at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From gschroeder at comcast.net Fri Apr 24 20:33:40 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:33:40 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings References: Message-ID: <18DBEF5F2E80455E97F6E2BB50B57F13@greg> I have looked at the old bearings and they indicate AT-20. There is also a part number 3219860. I will see if I can find a reference to these, but I would believe these bearings to be thinner that the standard ones that I had purchased. I need to get a caliper on them to measure. Greg 0036 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Sat Apr 25 16:48:33 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 22:48:33 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings Message-ID: Be sure to compare the original bearings to the new bearings to make sure the new bearings have the squirt notch cut in them. Some do and some don't. If they don't you can add the notch by using a small v file. And then deburr the filed notch. Those squirt holes in the rod caps lube the cylinder walls and if its blocked,well you can guess the results. errare humanum est From gschroeder at comcast.net Sat Apr 25 21:13:56 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 22:13:56 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings References: Message-ID: <3F4F668AEC96441F9208C06B7C44D578@greg> OK, getting to the frustration point with this. I did one other rebuild last year and did not have this much trouble with the pistons. The hardest part was trying to remove an over torqued balancer. It seems that after I install four pistons (1,2,3,4) I cannot move the crank to get the 5,6 where I can make the installation? Is this normal? My last build I did not have this issue, it was just as smooth with each piston I installed but it was a straight six. I have soaked top of the pistons in oil before installation which help some on the install, but does not seem to affect their movement after installation. I checked the clearance of the rod bearings with plasticgage and it was .004. Then I read an article about using plastigage and they indicate it is not an accurate measurement. One piston installed seems to work without any drag, so I believe that the rod bearing clearence is OK. I have removed all the pistons again to check the crank and make sure there is no drag from the mains. Moves nice and smooth. I tried to purchase an older gap gage to check the gap between the two rods and it seems the one auto parts I checked did not have them. I am hoping that this is where my issue lies. Is there a trick to keep the gap while installing? Is there any issue with installing the pistons all on one side (1,3,5,7) and then the other (2,4,6,8)? This would help me eliminate the new rings as the issue and point back this gap. Greg 0036 From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Sat Apr 25 23:04:54 2009 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 05:04:54 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings Message-ID: Is this engine stock displacement? Or has it been been bored and your using aftermarket pistons? From bradb52 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 26 05:44:29 2009 From: bradb52 at yahoo.com (Brad Bielinski) Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 04:44:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bricklin] (no subject) Message-ID: <79022.44938.qm@web57313.mail.re1.yahoo.com> take me off email list From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Apr 26 05:50:58 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 07:50:58 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings In-Reply-To: <3F4F668AEC96441F9208C06B7C44D578@greg> References: <3F4F668AEC96441F9208C06B7C44D578@greg> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20090426074650.01ff2328@cox.net> At 11:13 PM 4/25/2009, Greg Schroeder wrote: >OK, getting to the frustration point with this. I did one other rebuild last year >and did not have this much trouble with the pistons. The hardest part was >trying to remove an over torqued balancer. Greg, I don't think it makes an difference which pistons you install when. However, the last time I had a problem similar to what you describe, was when I rebuilt my Volvo P1800 B18 engine. What I learned from that, is every time in install a piece, main bearing cap, piston and connecting rod, cam, etc. you should rotate the engine. That way, when it doesn't rotate, you'll know it was the last item you installed. Did you take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked, and get the size of the main and connecting journals? Did they have to turn the crank? Also, it's possible that you got a bad con-rod bearing and it is pinching the crank journal? John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Sun Apr 26 06:41:30 2009 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 07:41:30 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings References: Message-ID: <12D108C82B6140FD9C828F4420F2AF9F@greg> I kept the engine stock. The cylinder walls where in good shape and did not require being bored out. I am using the stock pistons. The crank was in good shape also so I did not have any work done on it. Subject: Re: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings > Is this engine stock displacement? Or has it been been bored and your > using aftermarket pistons? From rick at hightechcoatings.com Mon Apr 27 03:54:58 2009 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 05:54:58 -0400 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings Message-ID: <4A1F17B7B22047E4820AFF4E34B114A1@work> Greg side clearance in itself should not be and issue if they are the original rods in the original locations BUT when rebuilding V8s it is important to place 2 feeler gauges between the rids before they are torqued and that both rods are on the journal before either one is tightened. That way the caps can be properly aligned, if not on of the caps can cock slightly and lock the engine. you can install all one side but leave the caps loose then install the other side. rotate the engine several times to make sure everything is fine then place the appropriate feeler gauges between the rods perpendicular to the rod you are torquing making sure they are between the cap/rod seam. This will probably cure your issue. another note, when reinstalling you oil pump gears make sure you check and adjust the end clearance, you may need a thinner than stock gasket. On 4/25/2009 11:13:56 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder at comcast.net) wrote: > I have removed all the pistons again to check the crank and make sure > there > is no drag from the mains. Moves nice and smooth. > > I tried to purchase an older gap gage to check the gap between the two > rods > a From WUZNTME2 at aol.com Thu Apr 30 19:54:02 2009 From: WUZNTME2 at aol.com (WUZNTME2 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 21:54:02 EDT Subject: [Bricklin] Edelbrock Performance Manifold / Carb / MSD ignition Message-ID: Looking to get a Edelbrock Manifold and a new carb for my Brickling ( 1975 - 351W ). I Went to Jegs website to see what I can get and wanted to know what recommendations all of you have. I am looking into getting: Performer 351-W Intake Manifold ( egr/non egr ) 600 cfm Edelbrock carb with elec. choke. New Dist - MSD Anyone use this setup or maybe recommend a better one? Not looking for HUGE performance as the rest of the engine will be stock. Looking for part numbers on each, any additional information needed to swap out carb and manifold.. I know I will prob need a kickdown for the auto trans. Thanks for all your assistance MIKE **************Big savings on Dell XPS Laptops and Desktops!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219491521x1201306563/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.double click.net%2Fclk%3B214102108%3B35952091%3Bs)