From mjb at autox.team.net Sun Nov 16 12:55:54 2008 From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 12:55:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Bricklin] List changes Message-ID: <20081116195554.981E9187880@autox.team.net> In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list you already receive, I've switched bricklin at autox.team.net from majordomo to mailman list management software. Some things will be different, some will be the same. As before, if you want to send mail to bricklin at autox.team.net you send mail to bricklin at autox.team.net - you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out! With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly. You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with your settings. One major change is that there is now a digest option. This is where the messages are collected into a daily digest instead of being sent out one at a time individually. With a fairly low traffic list like this it isn't really an issue. But if you want, you can go to the admin pages listed in the message trailer and select digest or non-digest delivery as you desire. Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature. If you are going to be away from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and then back to regular delivery upon your return. A bit easier than having to unsubscribe and then subscribe again. A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions from multiple addresses. For example, one might want to subscribe a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address. But sometimes you send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com and set the second address to nomail. So messages you send from either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple copies of each list message. RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various differences and features. mjb. From mjb at autox.team.net Sun Nov 16 12:46:24 2008 From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 12:46:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Bricklin] List changes Message-ID: <20081116194624.5B374187663@autox.team.net> In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list you already receive, I've switched bricklin at autox.team.net from majordomo to mailman list management software. Some things will be different, some will be the same. As before, if you want to send mail to bricklin at autox.team.net you send mail to bricklin at autox.team.net - you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out! With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly. You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with your settings. One major change is that there is now a digest option. This is where the messages are collected into a daily digest instead of being sent out one at a time individually. With a fairly low traffic list like this it isn't really an issue. But if you want, you can go to the admin pages listed in the message trailer and select digest or non-digest delivery as you desire. Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature. If you are going to be away from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and then back to regular delivery upon your return. A bit easier than having to unsubscribe and then subscribe again. A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions from multiple addresses. For example, one might want to subscribe a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address. But sometimes you send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com and set the second address to nomail. So messages you send from either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple copies of each list message. RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various differences and features. mjb. From chuckscurr at yahoo.com Sun Nov 16 13:47:10 2008 From: chuckscurr at yahoo.com (Chuck Scurr) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 12:47:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Bricklin] (no subject) Message-ID: <936125.56725.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Test Delco/ Mongoose 425SS Torch Red Y2K 4 Sp Coupe in Honolulu Hawaii From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Nov 16 18:14:12 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 20:14:12 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Fw: Welcome to the In-Reply-To: <24107360.1226883129468.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa. earthlink.net> References: <24107360.1226883129468.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20081116201014.02097e08@cox.net> At 07:52 PM 11/16/2008, Kevin Hand wrote: >Was this a system generated e-mail from the Bricklin list, or is someone >phishing? Kevin, No. It's lagit! Mark (MJB) has been converting the email mailing lists from majordomo to mailmam. It's taken a while for him to get to the Bricklin group. So when he converted it, the new mail program sent everyone on the list an email, so they would know it has been changed and how to use it. John -----Forwarded Message----- > >From: bricklin-request at autox.team.net > >Sent: Nov 16, 2008 11:33 AM > >To: khand1486 at earthlink.net > >Subject: Welcome to the "Bricklin" mailing list > > > >Welcome to the Bricklin at autox.team.net mailing list! > > > >To post to this list, send your email to: > > > > bricklin at autox.team.net > > > >General information about the mailing list is at: > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin > > > >If you ever want to unsubscribe or change your options (eg, switch to > >or from digest mode, change your password, etc.), visit your > >subscription page at: > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bricklin/khand1486%40earthlink.net > > > > > >You can also make such adjustments via email by sending a message to: > > > > Bricklin-request at autox.team.net > > > >with the word `help' in the subject or body (don't include the > >quotes), and you will get back a message with instructions. > > > >You must know your password to change your options (including changing > >the password, itself) or to unsubscribe. It is: > > > > > >Normally, Mailman will remind you of your autox.team.net mailing list > >passwords once every month, although you can disable this if you > >prefer. This reminder will also include instructions on how to > >unsubscribe or change your account options. There is also a button on > >your options page that will email your current password to you. ------------------------ John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jpivirotto at firstindustrial.com Sun Nov 16 18:23:17 2008 From: jpivirotto at firstindustrial.com (Jim Pivirotto) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 19:23:17 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Fw: Welcome to the Message-ID: I second John. Mark is one of my best friends in salt lake. He runs many lists basically for free. (He was also my best man). Pugs #756 4 sp. Without him there is no list Jim Pivirotto From wlawyer at iowatelecom.net Mon Nov 17 21:46:46 2008 From: wlawyer at iowatelecom.net (William J. Lawyer) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 22:46:46 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system Message-ID: <492248B6.4080401@iowatelecom.net> I have Bricklin 1643. Recently I found the battery was dead in the car. Further investigation revealed the battery was fine, but was being drained by the compressor running when the car was shut off. (Yes, I have compressor cut-out switch over the front bumper, but I hadn't flipped it to OFF). It appears the system loses about 4 pounds of pressure in two hours. Here are my questions: 1) According to Bob Hoffman, the switch is supposed to activate the compressor at around 130 pounds, and turn it off at around 145 pounds. However the sensor on my machine is marked 100 - 130 pounds. When the tank is pressurized the doors work normally. I'd be interested to know what other Bricks use for the "on" and "off" pressures for the compressor. 2) My local tech has checked for leaks and found none. But he and I would both like to have a diagram of the air circuit for the door system. We are particularly interested in knowing where the check valve is that prevents the pressurized tank from leaking back into the compressor. Any comments or assistance would be most welcome! Bill 1643 From rick at hightechcoatings.com Tue Nov 18 04:20:29 2008 From: rick at hightechcoatings.com (Rick at High Tech Coatings) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 06:20:29 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system Message-ID: <4B439D03AE6B4BF0B93C13234872CC70@work> My switch is a 85-100, but the compressor I use is only rated for 110 psi so I like to keep it safe, I have 2 check valves one at about 18" from the compressor and one more on the compressor side of the switch just before the switch. I do not depend on the "built in" valve in the compressor. IF you need another check valve let me know I found a deal on a box of 100 last time I did a car so I have about 90 left. A leak of 4 psi in 2 hours is very hard to find, it could be anywhere including a fitting, one of the solenoid valves or a porous line. good luck On 11/17/2008 11:46:46 PM, William J. Lawyer (wlawyer at iowatelecom.net) wrote: > I have Bricklin 1643. Recently I found the battery was dead in the > car. Further investigation revealed the battery was fine, but was being > drained by the compressor running when the car was shut off. (Yes, I > have compressor cut-out switch over the front bumper, but I > hadn't > flipped it to OFF). It appears the system loses about 4 pounds of > pressure in two hours. Here are my questions: > > 1) According to Bob Hoffman, the switch is supposed to activate the > compressor at around 130 pounds, and turn it off at around 145 pounds. > However the sensor on my machine is marked 100 - 130 pounds. When the > tank is pressurized the doors work normally. I'd > be interested to know > what other Bricks use for the "on" and "off" pressures for the compressor. > > > 2) My local tech has checked for leaks and found none. But he and I > would both like to have a diagram of the air circuit for the door > system. We are particularly interested in knowing where the check valve > is that prevents the pressurized tank from leaking back into the > compressor. > > Any comments or assistance would be most welcome! > > Bill > 1643 > _______________________________________________ From efrain_nadal at yahoo.com Tue Nov 18 05:03:58 2008 From: efrain_nadal at yahoo.com (Efrain Nadal) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 04:03:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system In-Reply-To: <4B439D03AE6B4BF0B93C13234872CC70@work> Message-ID: <570426.85085.qm@web111514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi Rick, thanks for the information. I need to check for some leak too because I have the same problem or maybe is anotherB than Bill. My battery is dead with my cut-out switch off. Probably is the battery but checking for some leak is not a bad idea. B Efrain VIN 2148 --- El mar 18-nov-08, Rick at High Tech Coatings escribiC3: De: Rick at High Tech Coatings Asunto: Re: [Bricklin] Compressor system A: "bl" Fecha: martes, 18 noviembre, 2008, 5:20 am My switch is a 85-100, but the compressor I use is only rated for 110 psi so I like to keep it safe, I have 2 check valves one at about 18" from the compressor and one more on the compressor side of the switch just before the switch. I do not depend on the "built in" valve in the compressor. IF you need another check valve let me know I found a deal on a box of 100 last time I did a car so I have about 90 left. A leak of 4 psi in 2 hours is very hard to find, it could be anywhere including a fitting, one of the solenoid valves or a porous line. good luck On 11/17/2008 11:46:46 PM, William J. Lawyer (wlawyer at iowatelecom.net) wrote: > I have Bricklin 1643. Recently I found the battery was dead in the > car. Further investigation revealed the battery was fine, but was being > drained by the compressor running when the car was shut off. (Yes, I > have compressor cut-out switch over the front bumper, but I > hadn't > flipped it to OFF). It appears the system loses about 4 pounds of > pressure in two hours. Here are my questions: > > 1) According to Bob Hoffman, the switch is supposed to activate the > compressor at around 130 pounds, and turn it off at around 145 pounds. > However the sensor on my machine is marked 100 - 130 pounds. When the > tank is pressurized the doors work normally. I'd > be interested to know > what other Bricks use for the "on" and "off" pressures for the compressor. > > > 2) My local tech has checked for leaks and found none. But he and I > would both like to have a diagram of the air circuit for the door > system. We are particularly interested in knowing where the check valve > is that prevents the pressurized tank from leaking back into the > compressor. > > Any comments or assistance would be most welcome! > > Bill > 1643 > _______________________________________________ Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as efrain_nadal at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive ____________________________________________________________________ ________________ B!Todo sobre Amor y Sexo! La guC-a completa para tu vida en Mujer de Hoy. http://mujerdehoy.telemundo.yahoo.com/ From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Nov 18 05:10:31 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 07:10:31 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system In-Reply-To: <492248B6.4080401@iowatelecom.net> References: <492248B6.4080401@iowatelecom.net> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20081118065427.01d4c360@cox.net> At 11:46 PM 11/17/2008, William J. Lawyer wrote: >I have Bricklin 1643. Recently I found the battery was dead in the car. >Further investigation revealed the battery was fine, but was being drained >by the compressor running when the car was shut off...... >It appears the system loses about 4 pounds of pressure in two hours. Here >are my questions: >1) According to Bob Hoffman, the switch is supposed to activate the >compressor at around 130 pounds, and turn it off at around 145 pounds. >However the sensor on my machine is marked 100 - 130 pounds. When the >tank is pressurized the doors work normally. I'd be interested to know what >other Bricks use for the "on" and "off" pressures for the compressor. Bill, That depends on when you purchased the compressor and from whom, or who installed the system. Mine is something like 120 on / 140 off. You can purchase different value switches. So some are now using 90 on / 120 off. The reason is, it takes about 80 psi to open the doors. The higher the pressure in the tank is, the more times you can open the door, with the compressor off before the doors will not open. But the higher the pressure in the tank, the harder the compressor has to work, and the more current it draws. So you switch if fine! >2) My local tech has checked for leaks and found none. But he and I would >both like to have a diagram of the air circuit for the door system. We are >particularly interested in knowing where the check valve is that prevents the >pressurized tank from leaking back into the compressor. Finding leaks can be a pain, but you should be able to find them and the system can (and mine does) hold air over 6mo. I think this has been covered many times in the back issues of the magazine and on-line. Basically, you have to use soapy water at every connection and look for bubbles. There are a couple of places that are particularly hard to find leaks, the regulator, the control valves, and the compressor. On the regulator, check the shaft, the input and output, and then the body as the regulator is screwed together. The control valves can leak internally and the air will leak into the lift rams and the down control valves. To check this, you can put some soapy water around the top of the ram where the shaft comes out. There is also a hole in the ram, under the cover, near the top of the cylinder. Check that also. You can take the solenoids apart and carefully blow them out. Be careful, as there is an O ring in them, and if you don't remove it, it can get blown out and the valve WILL leak. The compressor can leak are back past the internal valves. So you should put a check valve in it near the compressor. This will stop the air from flowing back into the compressor. Finally, if anyone has been into your system, it's possible that the air line fittings have been changed. The fittings Terry Tanner supplies have a tube built into them, that the air line slides over. If you purchase aftermarket fittings, most people buy the fittings that do not have the tube in the fitting. The tube is an extra piece you have to buy and goes into the air line. These keep the line from collapsing as the nut and ferrel are tightened. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Nov 18 05:23:42 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 07:23:42 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system In-Reply-To: <570426.85085.qm@web111514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <4B439D03AE6B4BF0B93C13234872CC70@work> <570426.85085.qm@web111514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20081118071521.01d63630@cox.net> At 07:03 AM 11/18/2008, Efrain Nadal wrote: >I need to check for some leak too because I have the same problem or maybe >is anotherB than Bill. My battery is dead with my cut-out switch off. Probably is >the battery but checking for some leak is not a bad idea. Efrain, The old installations for the compressor had the conpressor connected to the starter solenoid, and hot all the time. There is a on/off switch located on the front cross brace behind the bumper to chop power to the compressor when the car is stored or not driven for a while. This configuration is NOT a good idea. A relay should be installed to control power to the compressor, and the relay only energized when the ign. switch is turned on. There have been several discussions of this in the back issues of our magazine. Now there is an integrated box, that combines the pressure switch and the relay avaliable from Terry Tanner and other sources. Using this box, or doing it yourself, you don't have to worry about forgetting to turn off the switch when you garage your car. I wire the bumper switch as an emergency bypass to all me to energize the compressor, in case my air system is empty. When the system is charged, I turn off the switch. Now when I start the car, the relay is energized and the compressor again has power to it. Another benift of this newer wiring is that the pressure switch doesn't carry the entire current for the compressor, as it is put in the low current side of the relay. As to the dead battery, that can be because of the compressor, or parasitic leaks. You'll need to check your battery, and the other circuits in the car. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From ustow at ptd.net Tue Nov 18 06:35:03 2008 From: ustow at ptd.net (George) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 08:35:03 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Air fittings. Message-ID: All DOT )Dept of Trans) approved fittings have the insert. If that is what someone looks for they should go to a place that handles HD truck parts. They may have the air tubing in colors as well. 127GEORGE!! From gmalaska at hotmail.com Tue Nov 18 18:08:42 2008 From: gmalaska at hotmail.com (George Malaska) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 20:08:42 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system In-Reply-To: <4B439D03AE6B4BF0B93C13234872CC70@work><570426.85085.qm@web111514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <6.2.5.6.1.20081118071521.01d63630@cox.net> References: <4B439D03AE6B4BF0B93C13234872CC70@work><570426.85085.qm@web111514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <6.2.5.6.1.20081118071521.01d63630@cox.net> Message-ID: Another thing I add to my system is a shut off valve at the air tank. When I park the car for an extended period, I close it and even if the system develops a leak, it won't drain the tank. The others are correct when they told you to make sure that you install the insert sleeves in the air lines at the compression fitting. This keeps the line from collapsing and developing a leak. Also, make sure you use good air line that is made for air brake systems. You can get them at any truck parts supplier or NAPA stores too. The latest and neatest setup are the fittings that you just push the line in and it locks. To release them you push on the collar and pull the line out. Works really well. They are have been used on trucks brake systems for a while now, so they are reliable and proven. With these measures in place, I rarely lose more than 10 pounds pressue over months of down time. George George J. Malaska, V.P.Membership Bricklin International Owners Club Cell: 216-374-2531 Home: 440-281-8468 ----- Original Message ----- From: John T. Blair To: efrain_nadal at yahoo.com Cc: bricklin at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 7:23 AM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Compressor system At 07:03 AM 11/18/2008, Efrain Nadal wrote: >I need to check for some leak too because I have the same problem or maybe >is anotherB than Bill. My battery is dead with my cut-out switch off. Probably is >the battery but checking for some leak is not a bad idea. Efrain, The old installations for the compressor had the conpressor connected to the starter solenoid, and hot all the time. There is a on/off switch located on the front cross brace behind the bumper to chop power to the compressor when the car is stored or not driven for a while. This configuration is NOT a good idea. A relay should be installed to control power to the compressor, and the relay only energized when the ign. switch is turned on. There have been several discussions of this in the back issues of our magazine. Now there is an integrated box, that combines the pressure switch and the relay avaliable from Terry Tanner and other sources. Using this box, or doing it yourself, you don't have to worry about forgetting to turn off the switch when you garage your car. I wire the bumper switch as an emergency bypass to all me to energize the compressor, in case my air system is empty. When the system is charged, I turn off the switch. Now when I start the car, the relay is energized and the compressor again has power to it. Another benift of this newer wiring is that the pressure switch doesn't carry the entire current for the compressor, as it is put in the low current side of the relay. As to the dead battery, that can be because of the compressor, or parasitic leaks. You'll need to check your battery, and the other circuits in the car. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Bricklin at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin You are subscribed as gmalaska at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From dr_foot at comcast.net Tue Nov 18 19:22:39 2008 From: dr_foot at comcast.net (Dr. Charles Pankratz) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 21:22:39 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Fw: Compressor system Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Charles Pankratz" To: "William J. Lawyer" Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 1:28 PM Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Compressor system > Bill, > > I have installed a kill switch in the hatch compartment of my vehicle. > This will completely kill all power to everything. Bricklins are famous > for electrical leaks and this will not only insure against them, but also > from anyone wishing to steal the vehicle. > > If your car sits for a long time and the tank runs down following are some > remedies: 1. Correct the air leak. 2. switch on the air pump (after > turning on the kill switch) with the switch on the pump and fill up the > tank and open the doors. > > Dr. Charles Pankratz > vin # 1683 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William J. Lawyer" > To: "Bricklin Forum" > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 11:46 PM > Subject: [Bricklin] Compressor system > > >>I have Bricklin 1643. Recently I found the battery was dead in the car. >>Further investigation revealed the battery was fine, but was being drained >>by the compressor running when the car was shut off. (Yes, I have >>compressor cut-out switch over the front bumper, but I hadn't flipped it >>to OFF). It appears the system loses about 4 pounds of pressure in two >>hours. Here are my questions: >> >> 1) According to Bob Hoffman, the switch is supposed to activate the >> compressor at around 130 pounds, and turn it off at around 145 pounds. >> However the sensor on my machine is marked 100 - 130 pounds. When the >> tank is pressurized the doors work normally. I'd be interested to know >> what other Bricks use for the "on" and "off" pressures for the >> compressor. >> >> 2) My local tech has checked for leaks and found none. But he and I >> would both like to have a diagram of the air circuit for the door system. >> We are particularly interested in knowing where the check valve is that >> prevents the pressurized tank from leaking back into the compressor. >> >> Any comments or assistance would be most welcome! >> >> Bill >> 1643 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Bricklin at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin >> >> You are subscribed as dr_foot at comcast.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Nov 19 11:38:56 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 13:38:56 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Mailing list Roster Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20081119133345.01d701d8@cox.net> For those of you that may be new to the list, I maintain the Master Bricklin Registry, a listing of all known Bricklins. If you haven't already done so, I'd like you to email me you're name, address, phone #, VIN, when you bought your car and from whom. This is for historical puroses ONLY. The info is NOT sold or freely disciminated. Along with that, I have a roster of those people on the mailing list. Below are the email addresses of those I have on the list. If you email address is NOT on the list, and would like it to be, send me a private email stating that you'd like to be put on the mailing list ROSTER. I'll give it a couple of days, then I'll recompile the roster and email every one that is ON the list a copy. So if you don't want your info emailed to the others, simply don't ask to be put on the roster. But ONLY those people on the roster can receive a copy. So if you have any questions and need help, you can try and find someone close to you for help. If you're name is ON the list, and want it off, send me a private email saying to take you off the list. altec210 at yahoo.com amo0000 at yahoo.com aquaholic at robertdaley.net bbunin at sbcglobal.net billdaines at earthlink.net blisson at sympatico.ca bricklin_2568 at hotmail.com bricklin2264 at usa.com bricklingeorge at msn.com carpenterpa at tds.net ceo at davewolin.com chuckscurr at yahoo.com colemaal at hotmail.com COWBOY28169 at aol.com cullinanema at aol.com cutright at eoni.com dave at lastexit.org dennikro at hotmail.com dmbaldwin5 at aol.com dongillis at sympatico.ca dougincol at msn.com dr_foot at comcast.net Dr0119 at aol.com drbhome at bigmanortho.com eaglesflight at pacificcoast.net Ferryone at aol.com glcurley at aol.com gschiro at localdialup.com gschroeder at comcast.net gthompson at archcomm.net hostage at comcast.net Isensee at Aol.Com jake1958 at att.net jammer at sympatico.ca jbfpc at voicenet.com jblair1948 at cox.net jbschneeweis at msn.com jcbradley at att.net JEFFilm999 at msn.com jgs at whitecedarinn.com jimkelliher at nc.rr.com jnyc55 at yahoo.com john.kline at navy.mil jwmartin37 at aol.com K8kid2002 at comcast.net Keith at lahaskatravel.com khand1486 at earthlink.net kkelley at spakethus.com klasicars at mywdo.com krodgers at nautel.com kthompson at totalaccess.net ktouzin at earthlink.net KYNDUVME1 at aol.com Logocandy at aol.com lordshill at aol.com loren0701 at yahoo.com lynnmac at chartermi.net mark at fasano.com Maycinc at cs.com MBarr35251 at aol.com motorhead_1 at hotmail.com paul at galcomp.com Peekootong at hotmail.com philobandb at qwest.net playfone at aol.COM plz5 at verizon.net PNokes at cox.net postoloj at bellsouth.net pugsracer at comcast.net rarsenault at holbekgroup.com Rick at hightechcoatings.com rkeeler at sierratel.com RLH236 at aol.com rosensam at msn.com rpe27 at yahoo.com sbunin at cablespeed.com serge.ber at sympatico.ca shiftysbrick at hotmail.com siearly at yahoo.com Sjzukrow at Msn.Com Slvrcharm7 at Aol.Com spanepinto at comcast.net stewart8 at highspeedcrow.ca swrhodes at mindspring.com symbiotic at hotmail.com tbar68 at optonline.net tbenvie at mediaone.net tfsweeney at netzero.net tfsweeney at netzero.net turbodmc at hotmail.com ustow at ptd.net vaporwares at yahoo.com vinnycapece at verizon.net Viperjs at Aol.Com Wannagwing at aol.com webmaster at bricklins.net WFHSuccess at aol.com wfwhitaker at aol.com ziff at alum.mit.edu John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From gschroeder at comcast.net Wed Nov 26 15:43:56 2008 From: gschroeder at comcast.net (Greg Schroeder) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 16:43:56 -0600 Subject: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034 Message-ID: Anyone know where to get a Bricklin gas tank or a close cross reference? I found the AMC part number on the forum, but I have not been able to locate a tank. My neighbor has been motivated over the past few months and got his car running after 13 years of sitting in the garage. He went to put fuel in the tank and it is leaking at the base of the metal neck on the tank. So he is looking for a replacement. Greg 0036 From ustow at ptd.net Wed Nov 26 15:53:10 2008 From: ustow at ptd.net (George) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 17:53:10 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034 References: Message-ID: If it is not an AMC tank and avaible I would repair it. Have it cleaned by a radiator shop. They should be able to repair any leaks. Next step would be to coat the inside with a gas tank sealer followed by coating the outside. I am a POR fan for both. I rebuild rustey tanks for Dodge A-100 vans so I know what it is all about when you can't get one. 127GEORGE!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Nov 26 15:59:12 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 17:59:12 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin Mailing List Roster Oct 2007 Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20081126175855.01d8e860@cox.net> At 11:48 AM 11/19/2008, you wrote: >Is there a new list for this year? Greg, No I haven't done one yet. But that's not a bad idea. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Nov 26 16:00:06 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 18:00:06 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034 Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20081126175951.01d8e5d0@cox.net> At 05:43 PM 11/26/2008, you wrote: >Anyone know where to get a Bricklin gas tank or a close cross reference? Greg, I believe it's the large tank from the V8 Gremlin/Hornet. Not sure where you'll find one, except from an AMC junkyard. >My neighbor has been motivated over the past few months and got his car >running after 13 years of sitting in the garage. He went to put fuel in the >tank and it is leaking at the base of the metal neck on the tank. So he is >looking for a replacement. You can get some of the epoxy puddy at most auto parts store that will work with gas. So you could get some of this and work it in around the filler neck and tank. There is a place that will restore you tank, but they are expensive - like $500 or more depending on the amount of work required. I haven't seen anyone reproducing the tanks, unless you take it to a metal shop and have them make a 1 off. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From efrain_nadal at yahoo.com Wed Nov 26 16:14:11 2008 From: efrain_nadal at yahoo.com (Efrain Nadal) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 15:14:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Bricklin] Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034 Message-ID: <502980.85170.qm@web111511.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi If the leak is not so bad probably repear it will be good.B My car was sitting for almost 10 years andB it suffer from Katrina so I need to replaced and still do many thinks. One of them was the gas tank, my mechanic found a replacement (not an AMC) and it fit perfect in the car. I don't remember what is the model but I will ask him and I post the information next week. B Efrain 2148 _____________________________________________________________________________ _______ B!Todo sobre Amor y Sexo! La guC-a completa para tu vida en Mujer de Hoy. http://mujerdehoy.telemundo.yahoo.com/ From treefrogno9 at webtv.net Wed Nov 26 16:47:12 2008 From: treefrogno9 at webtv.net (D Walker) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 23:47:12 GMT Subject: [Bricklin] AMC gas tank Message-ID: I thought a AMC Spirit was real close if not the same as a Gremlin tank. If you put a wanted on the american motors forums i'm sure somebody on there will have some squirreled away. Thomas Benvie is another man to ask. I think his email is still on the roster. From mike.walsh at walshware.com Wed Nov 26 17:01:00 2008 From: mike.walsh at walshware.com (Mike Walsh) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 19:01:00 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC gas tank In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <492DE33C.4060003@walshware.com> I had to have my gas tank "hot tanked" to clean out the rust and varnish. I had to travel to Georgia (about 1 1/2 hours away) to find a radiator shop that would hot tank it. Apparently EPA regulations in Florida won't let the local shops do a hot tank. The shop told me they had to do it slowly or it would eat up the tank so it was about 2 weeks before it was ready. While they were at it I had them add a drain plug to the bottom of the tank. I decided to use Bill Hirsch's tank sealer (http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GTS) instead of POR because Ethanol gas is becoming so common and I didn't want to risk having the coating coming off and contaminating my fuel system. From Maycinc at cs.com Wed Nov 26 19:44:16 2008 From: Maycinc at cs.com (Maycinc at cs.com) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 21:44:16 EST Subject: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034 Message-ID: Greg, It's a Gremilin gas tank. I happen to have an extra one if you want it. Marvin #1343 In a message dated 11/26/2008 3:45:04 PM Mountain Standard Time, gschroeder at comcast.net writes: > Anyone know where to get a Bricklin gas tank or a close cross reference? I > found the AMC part number on the forum, but I have not been able to locate a > tank. My neighbor has been motivated over the past few months and got his > car > running after 13 years of sitting in the garage. He went to put fuel in the > tank and it is leaking at the base of the metal neck on the tank. So he is > looking for a replacement. > > Greg 0036 From ustow at ptd.net Wed Nov 26 19:57:39 2008 From: ustow at ptd.net (George) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 21:57:39 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC gas tank References: <492DE33C.4060003@walshware.com> Message-ID: <403A283EF4A84A688F0901E2B5040DAA@george10kgtit7> What does Ethanol have to do with POR? I did ask them about the Ethanol thing and they said it was compatable. POR does make ther stuff were Hirsch is only selling somthing somone else makes , maybe even POR. so I would have more faith in a manifacture of chemicles than a guy who sells more lether than gas tank sealer. POR has a whole line of coatings amd most of there buisness is industral in 5 gal - 55gal. 127GEORGE!! From mike.walsh at walshware.com Wed Nov 26 20:16:55 2008 From: mike.walsh at walshware.com (Mike Walsh) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 22:16:55 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] AMC gas tank In-Reply-To: <403A283EF4A84A688F0901E2B5040DAA@george10kgtit7> References: <492DE33C.4060003@walshware.com> <403A283EF4A84A688F0901E2B5040DAA@george10kgtit7> Message-ID: <492E1127.2020005@walshware.com> I did a fair amount of research first and POR did not appear to be sufficiently resistant to alcohol (which is what ethanol is). The stuff Bill Hirsch sells appears to be the so called "sloshing sealer" that is commonly used on airplane fuel tanks and is rated for use with alcohol. There were also several anecdotal stories of folks having issues with POR flaking off tanks when used with ethanol so I decided to go with the product Bill Hirsch sells. The Hirsch product coats the tank with a coating that looks a lot like a fiberglass resin or gel coat. By the way... I was quite surprised to find that the product Hirsch is based on MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and you have to take precautions to use it only in a well ventilated area. POR appears to not have the same safety concerns. Mike George wrote: > > What does Ethanol have to do with POR? I did ask them about the > Ethanol thing and they said it was compatable. POR does make ther > stuff were Hirsch is only selling somthing somone else makes , maybe > even POR. so I would have more faith in a manifacture of chemicles > than a guy who sells more lether than gas tank sealer. POR has a whole > line of coatings amd most of there buisness is industral in 5 gal - > 55gal. > 127GEORGE!! From maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com Wed Nov 26 20:26:37 2008 From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com (google Eyes) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 03:26:37 +0000 Subject: [Bricklin] FW: Gas Tank AMC 4488034 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.comTo: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.netSubject: RE: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 03:21:30 +0000 .Why not just fiberglass the gas tank most cars tanks today are made of plastic . put 3 or 4 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat at the base of the neck and after it hardens coat the whole tank with the same amount , makes a nice tank for fuel . this will work fine i,ve seen it done many times . just take the tank out wash it out . grind any excess rust or paint and oil so the fiberglass resin will stick well and apply the coats for about less than $ 50.00 you,ve got a lifetime tank .> From: gschroeder at comcast.net> To: Bricklin at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 16:43:56 -0600> Subject: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034> > Anyone know where to get a Bricklin gas tank or a close cross reference? I> found the AMC part number on the forum, but I have not been able to locate a> tank. My neighbor has been motivated over the past few months and got his car> running after 13 years of sitting in the garage. He went to put fuel in the> tank and it is leaking at the base of the metal neck on the tank. So he is> looking for a replacement.> > Greg 0036> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Bricklin at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin> > You are subscribed as maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive Visit messengerbuddies.ca to find out how you could win. Enter today. _________________________________________________________________ From paul-amo at comcast.net Thu Nov 27 01:43:49 2008 From: paul-amo at comcast.net (Paul J. Amoroso) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 03:43:49 -0500 Subject: [Bricklin] FW: Gas Tank AMC 4488034 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <492E5DC5.3070105@comcast.net> Speaking of which... Does anybody know of a PLASTIC tank that will fit to fill the same space - do they make a plastic tank for a Gremlin? ---> Just thinking that my tank is destined for the same fate sooner or later - probably not very much later - maybe you early birds can catch the guinea pig? Maybe today you could get away with a turkey... Happy Thanksgiving. If anybody has any comments, I'll wait on it. Amo #1207 google Eyes wrote: > From: maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.comTo: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.netSubject: > RE: [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 03:21:30 +0000 > > .Why not just fiberglass the gas tank most cars tanks today are made of > plastic . put 3 or 4 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat at the base of the neck and > after it hardens coat the whole tank with the same amount , makes a nice > tank for fuel . this will work fine i,ve seen it done many times . just take > the tank out wash it out . grind any excess rust or paint and oil so > the fiberglass resin will stick well and apply the coats for about less than > $ 50.00 you,ve got a lifetime tank .> From: gschroeder at comcast.net> To: > Bricklin at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 16:43:56 -0600> Subject: > [Bricklin] Gas Tank AMC 4488034> > Anyone know where to get a Bricklin gas > tank or a close cross reference? I> found the AMC part number on the forum, > but I have not been able to locate a> tank. My neighbor has been motivated > over the past few months and got his car> running after 13 years of sitting in > the garage. He went to put fuel in the> tank and it is leaking at the base of > the metal neck on the tank. So he is> looking for a replacement.> > Greg 0036> > _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Bricklin at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bricklin> > You are subscribed as > maureen__wadden01 at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive > > Visit messengerbuddies.ca to find out how you could win. Enter today. > _________________________________________________________________ > _______________________________________________