From mjb at autox.team.net Mon May 7 22:00:34 2007 From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Mon, 07 May 2007 22:00:34 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Email List Change Message-ID: <463FF5E2.7080308@autox.team.net> You are probably wondering why you got a 'Welcome to the BMCU mailing list' message. Don't be alarmed, nothing sinister is going on, it is just that I am in the process of switching over mailing lists from the majordomo list management software to mailman. The change should be beneficial to the average subscriber, managing your subscription should be more web friendly now, unlike the majordomo email interface. Hopefully the change will be seamless, but I'll keep an eye on things for the next few days to see how it goes. mjb. From Richornot- at msn.com Mon May 7 22:40:00 2007 From: Richornot- at msn.com (Richard Weyland) Date: Mon, 7 May 2007 22:40:00 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] mailing list Message-ID: keep me on the mailing list maybe some day ill get the car and be able to join in on the fun Rich From wbeech at flash.net Mon May 7 23:23:43 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (William Beecher) Date: Mon, 7 May 2007 23:23:43 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [BMCU] recommendation for auto tranport In-Reply-To: <93C7FAEF6CFA7940BF52E5B7DC7E99AE8D5869@EXCHANGE-01.mtnam.org> Message-ID: His number is: 1-800-221-3936 BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-bmcu at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-bmcu at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Dennis Hoagland Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 10:09 AM To: William Beecher; Neil McCasland; BMCU Subject: RE: [BMCU] recommendation for auto tranport Bill, I also need a car carrier to transport my MGB to Oxnard, CA for a new engine. I have tried jim at intercitylines.com and www. etc. but can not get through. Do you have a telephone number? Dennis Hoagland ________________________________ From: owner-bmcu at Autox.Team.Net on behalf of William Beecher Sent: Sat 5/5/2007 8:57 PM To: 'Neil McCasland'; 'BMCU' Subject: RE: [BMCU] recommendation for auto tranport When I was looking a few months ago, I got a very good recommendation from some Healey guys on their list for InterCity Lines. Contact Jim at: jim at intercitylines.com He was very responsive with the two quotes that I had requested. You can also go to their web site, www.intercitylines.com and view the very impressive loading procedure onto the enclosed van. As I said before, I did not use them but got good reviews for them during my research. I ended up driving as I bought a non-running car and extra engine, this doubled the cost of a running car only move. BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-bmcu at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-bmcu at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Neil McCasland Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 6:31 PM To: BMCU Subject: [BMCU] recommendation for auto tranport Hi, Need to ship my TR6 long way - anybody had good experience with a covered auto transport outfit? Any really bad actors? yours, Neil McC /// bmcu at autox.team.net mailing list /// Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net /// Send list postings to bmcu at autox.team.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/790 - Release Date: 5/5/2007 10:34 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/790 - Release Date: 5/5/2007 10:34 AM /// bmcu at autox.team.net mailing list /// Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net /// Send list postings to bmcu at autox.team.net ***Confidentiality Notice: This message and any attachments are intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copying, or distribution of this message, or attachments, is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail and delete it from your computer.*** /// bmcu at autox.team.net mailing list /// Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net /// Send list postings to bmcu at autox.team.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.5/793 - Release Date: 5/7/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.5/793 - Release Date: 5/7/2007 2:55 PM From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 7 23:29:15 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Mon, 07 May 2007 23:29:15 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [BMCU] recommendation for auto tranport In-Reply-To: <93C7FAEF6CFA7940BF52E5B7DC7E99AE8D5869@EXCHANGE-01.mtnam.org> References: <93C7FAEF6CFA7940BF52E5B7DC7E99AE8D5869@EXCHANGE-01.mtnam.org> Message-ID: <46400AAB.8090806@bradakis.com> Wow, couldn't you find an MGB motor closer than Oxnard, or do you just like the name of the town ;-) mjb. From stradi at xmission.com Tue May 8 07:08:17 2007 From: stradi at xmission.com (Michael Scoggins) Date: Tue, 8 May 2007 07:08:17 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] A sad note Message-ID: Here is a letter I just recieved from Ms. Kaye Thomas. I will transcribe it verbatum: Dear Michael and Mary Thank you for sending the British Motor Club Newspaper. I have enyoyed reading it in the past and Kent really loved belonging to the club. Kent passed away last January & Jason doesn't have the MGA anymose so please discontinue sending the paper. Good luck to you and the Club. It sounds like you have many fun activities planned. Love and Success to you Ms. Kent Thomas I don't know if anyone new Kent Thomas. I didn't but this was such a sweet letter from his wife. Just the fact she wrote a hand written letter was moving. I imagine that this club was fun for him. Michael Scoggins Membership Director From jim at statewideslc.com Tue May 8 08:04:44 2007 From: jim at statewideslc.com (Jim Welch) Date: Tue, 8 May 2007 07:04:44 -0700 Subject: [Bmcu] HOB CAP FOR '59 TR3-A Message-ID: <002e01c79179$d4b3c510$6d00a8c0@jimlaptop> I AM LOOKING FOR A CHROME HUB CAP FOR A 1959 TR3-A. THIS ONE HAS THE BLUE AND RED GLOBE IN THE CENTER. IF SOMEONE HAS ONE AND DOESN'T NEED IT, PLEASE E-MAIL ME AT JIM at STATEWIDSLC.COM OR CALL ME AT 506-5060. THANKS From mark at bradakis.com Tue May 8 21:32:47 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Tue, 08 May 2007 21:32:47 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [Fwd: [British-cars] Triumph GT-6 for sale] Message-ID: <464140DF.90105@bradakis.com> Here's a note that came through the british-cars at autox.team.net email list. It is fairly close, in case anyone in the area is interested. I'm not, nope, not me, never, I have no desire to own another GT6, not me, no interest whatsoever, honest! mjb. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [British-cars] Triumph GT-6 for sale Date: Tue, 8 May 2007 11:04:45 -0600 From: Charles Woodward To: british-cars at autox.team.net I have a 1970 Triumph GT-6+ which runs, is licensed and insured, and is a reasonably unrusted western car. It gets around Ok but has the usual experienced Britmobile issues plus some unaddressed cosmetic issues. I've enjoyed it, but don't use it much and it hasn't made the progress toward completion I would like to see. ( especially since I got into Audi Quattros, which are real road screamers and practical too...) It's for sale, asking $1850, location is Victor, Idaho, near Jackson, WY. Email me for more info and pics. Charles Woodward Natural Resource Co. PO Box 91 Victor, ID 83455 208-787-2495 idpv at ida.net From stonestaff at mindspring.com Tue May 8 21:32:32 2007 From: stonestaff at mindspring.com (Clayton Merchant) Date: Tue, 8 May 2007 21:32:32 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] A sad note In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is sad to hear. I knew that Kent had been sick but was unaware of this occurence. I did not know him well but had the chance to speak to him a couple of times, usually at BFD. He loved LBC's and his beautiful red MGA coupe in particular. He will be missed. Clayton -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Scoggins Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:08 AM To: BCMU Subject: [Bmcu] A sad note Here is a letter I just recieved from Ms. Kaye Thomas. I will transcribe it verbatum: Dear Michael and Mary Thank you for sending the British Motor Club Newspaper. I have enyoyed reading it in the past and Kent really loved belonging to the club. Kent passed away last January & Jason doesn't have the MGA anymose so please discontinue sending the paper. Good luck to you and the Club. It sounds like you have many fun activities planned. Love and Success to you Ms. Kent Thomas I don't know if anyone new Kent Thomas. I didn't but this was such a sweet letter from his wife. Just the fact she wrote a hand written letter was moving. I imagine that this club was fun for him. Michael Scoggins Membership Director _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From wbeech at flash.net Fri May 11 15:29:47 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (William Beecher) Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 15:29:47 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil Message-ID: OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM From spitfiresrule at msn.com Fri May 11 19:06:08 2007 From: spitfiresrule at msn.com (MITCH D JOHNSON) Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 19:06:08 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil References: Message-ID: Bill, If you stick to good old Castrol 20W-50 you usually can't go wrong. I've heard that it still has the zinc our older style engines require. Also Redline Synthetic oil will work well as long as your car is not a serious leaker (at $8+ per quart it can get pricey to just leak out! Mitch D. Johnson BMCU Gov ----- Original Message ----- From: William Beecher To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'BMCU' Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri May 11 14:46:41 2007 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 14:46:41 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil Message-ID: OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM From jeff at utahlotusclub.com Fri May 11 16:21:36 2007 From: jeff at utahlotusclub.com (Jeff Greenland) Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 16:21:36 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4644EC70.9070809@utahlotusclub.com> I'm certainly not an expert on oils, but from what I do know, I'd stick with the straight weights. The smaller number is how "thin" the oil gets when it's at operating temperature. So, in your case, it sounds like your engine might have been designed to work off the heavier oils that stay heavy when they're hot. When it gets thin, it's easier for it to squeeze past your rings and valves. That, of course, means you're burning more oil, creating more carbon deposits, and then picking up contaminants from your combustion chamber and dripping them back into your oil pan (to be circulated all over again). In addition, as your engine gets older and more worn out, the clearances in your engine parts start to increase, making it easier for the oil to start squeezing past. Again, I'm not an expert, so take that with a grain of salt. That's just the way I understand it. Best of luck though! Jeff William Beecher wrote: > OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. > > Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with > fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it > about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and > SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils > available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a > better choice these days. > > I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and > around town, not competition. > > Thanks, > > BillB > TR3 (TS-303766) > "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 > 5:10 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 > 5:10 PM > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From rbfritz at comcast.net Fri May 11 23:07:52 2007 From: rbfritz at comcast.net (Richard Fritz) Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 23:07:52 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil References: <4644EC70.9070809@utahlotusclub.com> Message-ID: <003301c79453$7f1c3560$2899c447@hsd1.co.comcast.net> Jeff: I'm afraid you have the interpretation of multiple viscosity oils turned around. The smaller number refers to the ability to flow at cold temperatures and the higher number represents viscosity when fully warmed up. You need the 10 weight to get good oil circulation when starting the car, and yes, that is more critical in winter than in summer. Richard Fritz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Greenland" To: "William Beecher" Cc: ; "'BMCU'" Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil > I'm certainly not an expert on oils, but from what I do know, I'd stick > with the straight weights. The smaller number is how "thin" the oil > gets when it's at operating temperature. So, in your case, it sounds > like your engine might have been designed to work off the heavier oils > that stay heavy when they're hot. When it gets thin, it's easier for it > to squeeze past your rings and valves. That, of course, means you're > burning more oil, creating more carbon deposits, and then picking up > contaminants from your combustion chamber and dripping them back into > your oil pan (to be circulated all over again). In addition, as your > engine gets older and more worn out, the clearances in your engine parts > start to increase, making it easier for the oil to start squeezing past. > > Again, I'm not an expert, so take that with a grain of salt. That's > just the way I understand it. > > Best of luck though! > > Jeff > > > > William Beecher wrote: > > OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. > > > > Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with > > fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it > > about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and > > SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils > > available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a > > better choice these days. > > > > I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and > > around town, not competition. > > > > Thanks, > > > > BillB > > TR3 (TS-303766) > > "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" > > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 > > 5:10 PM > > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 > > 5:10 PM > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Bmcu mailing list > > Bmcu at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu > _______________________________________________ > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From mikemostert at msn.com Sun May 13 07:33:45 2007 From: mikemostert at msn.com (Mike Mostert) Date: Sun, 13 May 2007 07:33:45 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil References: Message-ID: I thought the article below was very informative. But maybe this is too much information unless you're a chemical engineer. As oils advanced in the 1960s and 1970s the British owners manuals started recommending 20W50 in the summer. Cheers! Mike Mostert Science & Technology March 13, 2006 Volume 84, Number 11 p. 38 WHAT'S THAT STUFF? Motor Oil Lubricant keeps car engines from clanging apart, sparks debates on how often it should be changed Steve Ritter Jose Luis Pelaez/Photodisc Do you know where your car's dipstick is? If the answer is yes, do you recall when you last looked at it? In bygone days, people took time to regularly check the level of motor oil in their car and faithfully changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. But now, with new engine designs that require less maintenance, improved motor oils, and ubiquitous 15-minute oil-change garages, many people have dropped the routine of popping the hood to check the oil or to change it themselves. Why motor oil? The viscous fluid spurts out of strategically located holes in the engine or splashes off moving parts to form a thin film on the metal surfaces. The primary role of motor oil is to reduce friction and prevent corrosion. But oil also serves to dissipate heat and to hold in suspension the micrometer-sized by-products of engine wear (metallic particles), combustion (soot), and oil degradation products. But what is motor oil? Simply put, it's about 90% paraffinic (heavy) hydrocarbon base stock distilled from crude oil, with the remainder constituting the "additives package," notes Dennis L. Bachelder of the American Petroleum Institute (API). The lengths of the hydrocarbon chains vary depending on the desired properties of the oil, but base stocks generally contain an assortment of linear and branched compounds in the C16 to C50 range. Base stocks are divided into five groups, Bachelder notes. Groups I-III are basic crude oil fractions, with little extra refining done to Group I and some cracking done for Group III. Groups IV and V are called "synthetic" oils because they have been subjected to several synthetic refinery processes. Group IV is made up exclusively of poly(N1-olefin)s, while Group V is a catchall group that includes polyol esters and polyalkylene glycols, he says. Specifications and certifications are important when it comes to motor oil, and an array of national and international organizations set standards and perform evaluations. API's ratings include evolving oil performance specifications for gasoline engines (currently denoted as SM) and diesel engines (currently CI-4). The grades of oil are based on viscosity standards set by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Oil grades are based on a viscosity range at a standard temperature; the higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number. These numbers, which range from 0 to 50 or higher, are referred to as the "weight" of motor oil. The oil's cold-weather weight is indicated by the letter "W," meaning "winter," as in 10W, which is gauged by the oil's viscosity at 0 B0F. The warm-weather weight is based on the viscosity measured at 210 B0F. Oils used to be sold mostly as single-grade products, and still are for some special uses, such as extreme weather conditions or for racing cars. But the viscosity range of single-grade oils is too limited for general use. That's where multigrade oils come in. High-molecular-weight polymers (viscosity index improvers) such as poly(methyl methacrylate) and ethylene-propylene copolymer are added to a low-viscosity oil base stock to create multigrade oils that work through thick and thin. At cold temperatures, the rubberlike polymer molecules exist as balled-up coils and don't thicken the oil significantly, Bachelder says. But at warmer temperatures, they expand to more linear random coils to prevent oil from thinning out too much. Thus, common multigrade monikers-indicated by two grade numbers-are 5W-30 for colder climates (falling below 0 B0F), 10W-30 for intermediate climates (down to 0 B0F), and 20W-50 for warmer climates (down to 32 B0F). Now to the additives. One major class of motor oil additives is metal phenoxides, such as RC6H4ONa, where R is an alkyl chain. These compounds play several roles, including acting as bases to neutralize acids that form from sulfur compounds in the oil and to prevent hydrocarbon oxidation, which can lead to sludge formation. The phenoxides and their sulfate and carboxylate analogs also serve as detergents to help solubilize or suspend soot and to carry particulates to the oil filter to be removed from the oil stream. Another key additive class is antiwear agents, such as zinc dialkyldithiophosphates, Zn[S2P(OR)2]2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group. These compounds form a micrometer-thick, cross-linked barrier layer on metal surfaces under high pressure to protect against scuffing. The zinc compounds and various amines, such as diphenylamine, also serve as corrosion inhibitors and antioxidants. As with other types of consumer products, the plethora of motor oil additives for sale at your local auto parts store vary from maybe being useful to being snake oil. One can assume that if an additive were useful, it would already be in the oil, or it would carry an endorsement from an oil company. Finally, the burning question about motor oil: How often should it be changed? Conventional wisdom has held that the oil should be changed about every 3,000 miles. This notion has been ingrained into people's heads for decades, in part as a marketing ploy by oil companies. The 3,000-mile interval made sense when engines used single-grade nondetergent oils. But with the latest oils and car designs, it's no longer necessary to change oil that often under normal driving conditions. "You can change your oil every 3,000 miles if you're really particular, but we recommend changing it every 5,000 miles," commented Tom and Ray Magliozzi, the erudite grease-monkey hosts of the popular National Public Radio program "Car Talk," on a show last year. "If you change it more often, you are just wasting your money and creating a disposal problem," they noted. They are considering revising their recommendation to 7,500 miles. Synthetic oils, because of their better properties, need to be changed less often, at intervals up to 25,000 miles or more. In the end, the best advice on the type of oil to use and the frequency of oil changes is to follow the manufacturer's recommendation in your car owner's manual. Chemical & Engineering News ISSN 0009-2347 Copyright B) 2006 American Chemical Society ----- Original Message ----- From: William Beecher To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'BMCU' Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/797 - Release Date: 5/10/2007 5:10 PM _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 8411oilimg1.jpg] From Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM Mon May 14 06:53:16 2007 From: Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM (Hermance, Jonathan) Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 06:53:16 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CAD4@ut40se01.atk.com> Bill Additives that older engine designs need have been removed from modern oils because the additives clog up catalytic converters. Your TR3 needs REDLINE Oil products or engine oil used in diesel engines to get the proper cushioning effect from the oil. I use 20/50 weight REDLINE in my T-Series MGs. Jon -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Beecher Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" From gary at cs.utah.edu Mon May 14 08:47:55 2007 From: gary at cs.utah.edu (Gary Lindstrom) Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 08:47:55 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 Message-ID: <4648769B.4040000@cs.utah.edu> British Field Day at Liberty Park Saturday June 9th 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM British Field Day will be held at Liberty Park again this year. It is time for all British car and motorcycle enthusiasts to get their rigs out of the garage, clean them up and get them running as well as can be expected. All British cars and bikes in any condition from 100- point restorations to works in progress or an old daily beater are welcome. The more the merrier! All the British car/bike clubs are participating. Don't let those other marques make your club look like slackers. Call your fellow club members and get them to the event! For the brave of heart, we will have the road course set up again this year on a closed access road inside the park. It promises to be as noisy and challenging as previous years! During the event there will be music, shop talk, bench-racing, catching up with old friends, drawings for raffle prizes and more. Liberty Park has many amenities. There is a remodeled food concession stand, one of the largest and best playgrounds in the city, the Tracy Aviary and a small amusement park with a Ferris wheel and merry-go-round. Even if your family doesn't share your passion for LBCs (little British cars), there will be plenty for them to do while you are getting your fix! Proceeds from this year's event will be donated to The Food Pantry of Saint Paul's Episcopal Church. In recent years we have raised enough money to pay for 80% of the Pantry's yearly cash budget! The Pantry is providing volunteers to assist with the event so the organizers can have more time for some fun, too! Liberty Park is located between 500 East & 700 East and 900 South & 1300 South. The BFD event will be held in the northeast quadrant of the park. Enter off 1300 South and drive east and north about a quarter of the way around the park. You will see the event on the left. Please help support Saint Paul's food pantry by bringing your cars and bikes out to join in the fun. Registration starts at 8:00 AM and we hope to have most bikes and cars in place by 9:00. The registration fee is $10 per bike or car. A $5 donation is requested per adult. Kids 12 and under are free. Saturday, June 9th, 2007 Liberty Park 700 East 1300 South, SLC 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. Check out the BFD website at www.britishfieldday.com. Hopefully it will have been updated by the time you look. From marc_ligon at comcast.net Mon May 14 22:16:40 2007 From: marc_ligon at comcast.net (Marc) Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 22:16:40 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Missing British field day Again!! Message-ID: <001201c796a7$d6f2a700$0702a8c0@marcsbox> Well guys this will be the second year I have had the Midget running and will be the second year I miss field day. I was really looking forward to this years events but as it turns out this year my anniversary is the same day hopefully I will make it next year. Everyone have a great time!!!! P.S. I'm hoping to make it to at least one of the outings this year. are there going to be any in the Utah county area? Marc Ligon http://polo.papercut.com/midget.htm From gary at cs.utah.edu Tue May 15 13:09:10 2007 From: gary at cs.utah.edu (Gary Lindstrom) Date: Tue, 15 May 2007 13:09:10 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] BMCU at Living Traditions Festival this Saturday evening Message-ID: <464A0556.3080108@cs.utah.edu> Living Traditions Festival May 18 - 20 Salt Lake City and County Building It is once again time for the annual three day Living Traditions Festival at the City and County Building in the heart of Salt Lake City. Various members of the BMCU have been attending this event for a number of years and the tradition continues on May 19th. Pugs and Diane Pivirotto will once again be the unofficial hosts of the Saturday night activities. The festival is free and parking is available across the street at 400 South and State Street for a nominal fee or you can usually find a parking spot on the street in the adjacent neighborhoods. Ethnic food from around the globe can be purchased at the festival as well as liquid refreshments. The line up for this year has not yet been announced, or at least not yet posted on the internet as of the date of this article. However, the Saturday night band is usually great entertainment and has historically performed on the North stage. The Piv's will be hanging out in the refreshment garden on the north end of the grounds. Hope to see you there. -- Pugs and Diane Pivirotto Web site http://www.slcgov.com/arts/livingtraditions/ From gary at cs.utah.edu Tue May 15 15:30:28 2007 From: gary at cs.utah.edu (Gary Lindstrom) Date: Tue, 15 May 2007 15:30:28 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] antelope island run story and photos Message-ID: <464A2674.2040604@cs.utah.edu> See http://www.britishmotorclub.org/2007/AntelopeIs5-5-07/ --Gary From beachbumbarry at msn.com Tue May 15 19:13:00 2007 From: beachbumbarry at msn.com (Barry Engstrum) Date: Tue, 15 May 2007 19:13:00 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 References: <4648769B.4040000@cs.utah.edu> Message-ID: Gary / BMCUers, I think that the club needs a little more exposure for the BFD, an extra 200 - 300 people would help the cause. I think that some of the TV stations might do a short blurb on the event if they were approached about the help we give St.Paul's. The British car forum, Hemming's Motor News and Moss Motors might also run something about the event. The News papers do some event ads at no cost. Someone in the BMCU knows someone with connections ? I would like to have a great turnout. BarryE ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Lindstrom To: BMCU Membership ; Wasatch Mountain JaguarRegister Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 8:47 AM Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 British Field Day at Liberty Park Saturday June 9th 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM British Field Day will be held at Liberty Park again this year. It is time for all British car and motorcycle enthusiasts to get their rigs out of the garage, clean them up and get them running as well as can be expected. All British cars and bikes in any condition from 100- point restorations to works in progress or an old daily beater are welcome. The more the merrier! All the British car/bike clubs are participating. Don't let those other marques make your club look like slackers. Call your fellow club members and get them to the event! http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM Mon May 14 08:58:12 2007 From: Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM (Hermance, Jonathan) Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 08:58:12 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CAD4@ut40se01.atk.com> References: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CAD4@ut40se01.atk.com> Message-ID: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CADA@ut40se01.atk.com> All, Worth a read if you have an older design of engine. Jon -----Original Message----- From: Hermance, Jonathan Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 6:53 AM To: 'Bill Beecher'; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil Bill Additives that older engine designs need have been removed from modern oils because the additives clog up catalytic converters. Your TR3 needs REDLINE Oil products or engine oil used in diesel engines to get the proper cushioning effect from the oil. I use 20/50 weight REDLINE in my T-Series MGs. Jon -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Beecher Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" [ Home ] [ Tech Index ] [ Picture_This ] [ Autojumble ] [ Car Lists ] [ Search ] [ The53 ] [ FYI ] [ Ttalk ] ZDDP This page has been created to provide information about a serious deficiency in modern oils. The first word of this came in the form of a posting on the UKMGBB by someone named Scott from Oregon. He posted the following article, written by Keith Ansell: ********* OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!! By: Keith Ansell, Foreign Parts Positively, Inc. About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere. A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures. This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It's today's "modern" API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines. Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won't fail in an unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet engines. Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response: "We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products". They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don't have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the "new, improved and approved" ones that destroy flat tappet engines! "We just build the best lubricants possible". Sounds stupid, doesn't it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars. To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to "warn us" of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! "The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers". They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations. This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding. Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was "VERY" aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn't rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the "bad news" we have been finding. Comp Cams put out "#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts". They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was "While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the off the-shelf oil". Next question: Now what do we do? From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) "Use oils rated for diesel use", Delo (Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality petroleum based oils. They are not API formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with. From the camshaft manufacturer (Crane): "use our additive" for at least the first 500 miles. From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, it's only about $12.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can (This problem seems to be something GM has known about for some time!). From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need! From our major oil distributor: Distributing Castro, Redline, Valvoline and Industrial oils: "After over a week of contacts we have verified that the major oil companies are aware of the problem". "The representatives of the oil companies today are only aware of marketing programs and have no knowledge of formulation". The only major oil companies they were aware of for doing anything to address this are Valvoline that is offering an "Off Road 20W-50" and Redline. From Castrol: We are beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may be advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified diesel oils. Last question: So what are we at Foreign Parts Positively going to do? After much research we are switching to Redline Street rated oils and stocking the Castrol products that are diesel rated. Castrol, owned by British Petroleum, is now just a brand name. This is a difficult decision as we have been a dealer and great believer in all Castrol Products for over 40 years. We have been using Castrol Syntech oil in new engines for about 3 years so the cost difference in changing to Redline is minimal. The actual cost in operation is also less as the additive package in Redline makes a 1-year or up to 18,000 mile change recommended! Yes, it is a long change interval but with lowered sulfur levels and the elimination of lead and many other chemicals in the fuels there are less contaminants in our oil from the fuel, which is the major contributor to oil degradation. We will continue to offer the Castrol products but will now only stock the suggested diesel oils that they produce. Too many things are starting to show up on this subject and it has cost us money and time. Be aware that "New and Improved", or even products we have been using for many years, are destroying our cars as it isn't the same stuff we were getting even a year ago. For the cars that use "engine oil" in their gearboxes this may even pose a problem as these additives that have been removed could be very critical in gear wear. We will be using oil specifically formulated for Manual Gearboxes with Brass Synchronizers. The only oils we are aware of that fit the criteria are from General Motors and Redline. If you have any additional input let us know. We need to let every flat tappet engine owner, i.e.: every British Car owner know that things are changing and we MUST meet the challenge. Keith Ansell, President Foreign Parts Positively, Inc. www.ForeignPartsPositively.com 360-882-3596 *************************** More: At this time, late October 2006, it appears that our old staple, Castrol, has reduced the ZDDP in GTX to about half what it used to be. The safest bet right now seems to be either the use of Redline (synthetic) or Valvoline VR1. Today I purchased 7 quarts of Valvoline VR1 20W-50 at AutoZone for $2.79/quart. ******************************* More from Keith Ansell: Oil is Killing our cars Part II Last month's report on this subject is turning out to be just the tip of the iceberg! Many publications have had this subject of zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate (ZDDP) covered in varying depths over the last few months. Some publications have even had conflicting stories when you compare one month's article with their next month's article! They are all ending up supporting our report. I have had the good fortune to have the ear of quite a few leaders in the industry including some wonderful input from Castrol. We have been very reluctant to "dump" Castrol, as it has been such a great supporter of our cars and industry over the years. Castrol hasn't really abandoned our cars, just shifted to a more mass marketing mode. Many Castrol products are not appropriate for our cars today, some still are. Now for the latest report: #1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars after break-in! 10W-40, 10W-30 and other grades are NOT good. Absolute NOT GOOD for any oil (Any Brand) that is marked "Energy Conserving" in the API "Donut" on the bottle, these oils are so low with ZDDP or other additives that they will destroy our cams. Virtually all "Diesel" rated oils are acceptable. #2 Castrol HD 30 is a very good oil for break-in of new motors. This oil has one of the largest concentrations of ZDDP and Moly to conserve our cams and tappets. #3 Only an unusual Castrol Syntec 20W-50 approaches the levels of protection we need when we look to the better synthetic lubricants. We are attempting to get this oil but will be using Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 as these are lighter weights for better performance, flow volume, less drag and has the additive package we need. #4 The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag, which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the "Energy Conservation" oils that we cannot use. #5 Redline oil and others are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new engines! Proper seating of rings, with today's lubricants is taking that long to properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will just burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped. #6 The "Energy Conservation" trend was first lead by automakers to increase mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles, increasing pollution. We don't have catalytic converters and the mileage gains are not that significant for most of us. For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to "Stand" the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need for ZDDP in diesel engines. Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much, but necessary. Latest conclusions: Running our older, broken in engines on Castrol 20W-50 GTX is ok. Break in a new engine for 3,000 miles on HD 30 Castrol. New engines (after break-in) and fairly low mileage engines will do best with the Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 synthetic. We'll keep you apprised of any new findings! Happy motoring for now! ****************** Back-[Back.gif] (508) 746-6735 mailto:admin at Ttalk.info URL:http://www.ttalk.info/zddp.htm From wbeech at flash.net Wed May 16 13:10:48 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (William Beecher) Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 13:10:48 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CAD4@ut40se01.atk.com> Message-ID: OK, here's the tally in case you didn't save all those oily emails: 7 for Castrol 20/50 2 for Valvoline 20/50 1 for Red Line 20/50 1 for 20/50 (no brand specified) And a very interesting treatise on ZDDP, thank you Jonathan. Thanks to all who provided much appreciated info. An interesting note: The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol 20/50 (as recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts or 1.4191 liters. Also, it appears that I have some type of finned alloy oil pan that drains from the rear-center. It also has a plug in the side about mid-way up (possible oil-cooler inlet?). I would guess this is some sort of after-market rig but have no idea where it came from. All the Best, BillB TR3 (TS-30766L) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Beecher Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil OK, I will admit to being a little out of the loop...it's been a while. Just getting the '58 TR3A on the road, it has been sitting for 5 years with fresh oil and I want to change it now that I have started and driven it about 20-30 miles. The original manual calls for SAE-30 @ 40-70 degrees and SAE-40 @ 70+. Fifty years ago there were not all these multi-grade oils available and I was wondering if a 10w-40w or some other combination is a better choice these days. I would appreciate to know what you all use for general use on the road and around town, not competition. Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-303766) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/804 - Release Date: 5/14/2007 4:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 10:47 AM From rgpi at comcast.net Wed May 16 14:31:33 2007 From: rgpi at comcast.net (rgpi at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 20:31:33 +0000 Subject: [Bmcu] Concours D' Elegance charity car show Message-ID: <051620072031.11284.464B6A2500053A1300002C142207001641079F099D@comcast.net> I guess you've all heard that the Concours will be held outside on Saturday 8/25/07 at Thanksgiving point this year. All entries will get one free dinner on Friday evening 8/24/07 with a cruise and live music and guest speakers. (Extra dinner tickets are only $10 bucks) Cars can be placed all day friday or early Saturday. Please check our website that's not quite finished yet. www.concoursutah.com Contact me for questions. I would like to see a big turn out along with the Jag club together. Thanks, Ron Gunderson rgpi at comcast.net From dHoagland at macu.org Wed May 16 16:41:00 2007 From: dHoagland at macu.org (Dennis Hoagland) Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 16:41:00 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 References: <4648769B.4040000@cs.utah.edu> Message-ID: <93C7FAEF6CFA7940BF52E5B7DC7E99AE8D5878@EXCHANGE-01.mtnam.org> I cannot be there until the end of June (first time in about 5 years). I will see if I can have someone get my Triumph and MGB there. Dennis Hoagland ________________________________ From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of Barry Engstrum Sent: Tue 5/15/2007 7:13 PM To: BMCU Membership; Wasatch MountainJaguarRegister; Gary Lindstrom Subject: Re: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 Gary / BMCUers, I think that the club needs a little more exposure for the BFD, an extra 200 - 300 people would help the cause. I think that some of the TV stations might do a short blurb on the event if they were approached about the help we give St.Paul's. The British car forum, Hemming's Motor News and Moss Motors might also run something about the event. The News papers do some event ads at no cost. Someone in the BMCU knows someone with connections ? I would like to have a great turnout. BarryE ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Lindstrom To: BMCU Membership ; Wasatch Mountain JaguarRegister Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 8:47 AM Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 British Field Day at Liberty Park Saturday June 9th 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM British Field Day will be held at Liberty Park again this year. It is time for all British car and motorcycle enthusiasts to get their rigs out of the garage, clean them up and get them running as well as can be expected. All British cars and bikes in any condition from 100- point restorations to works in progress or an old daily beater are welcome. The more the merrier! All the British car/bike clubs are participating. Don't let those other marques make your club look like slackers. Call your fellow club members and get them to the event! http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu ***Confidentiality Notice: This message and any attachments are intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copying, or distribution of this message, or attachments, is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail and delete it from your computer.*** From wbeech at flash.net Wed May 16 23:31:51 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (William Beecher) Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 23:31:51 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [TR] RE: TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <006e01c7980a$08fe0ab0$6501a8c0@toshibauser> Message-ID: What is the windage tray? There is nothing below or around the pan, it is just there. Are you thinking this is an oversize pan from a TR4 on this engine? BTW, the engine is not original to this car as it carries number: TS-71465E. The previous owner thought it might be a TR4 engine but I am inclined to think the number is closer to a late TR3A 60 or 61, with engine and commission numbers not matching I dont know how to check this out to be positive of what I really have. Do you know of any other clues to look for to date it? Thanks, BillB TR3 (TS-30766L) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Van Vlack [mailto:jerryvv at adelphia.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 4:32 PM To: Bill & AnnaBelle; William Beecher; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil The plugged hole half way up the side of the finned oil pan is for an oil temperature gauge if you want to install one. I have one on my TR4A. If you plan on using the pan you should have the windage tray that comes with it as well. Anyone who wants more information can write to me. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill & AnnaBelle" To: "William Beecher" ; ; "'BMCU'" Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 5:40 PM Subject: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil > Willlam, the finned, alloy oil pan is an abomination ... :'( I will > suffer that agony and trade you (even up) for a pristine standard one > ... :-X > > > > > > >Also, it appears that I have some type of finned alloy oil pan that drains > >from the rear-center. It also has a plug in the side about mid-way > >up (possible oil-cooler inlet?). I would guess this is some sort of > >after-market rig but have no idea where it came from. > > > > > > > -- > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 TS16765L > aka > Casper > > AnnaBelle Pugh > 1970 TR6 CC59179L > aka > Rosey > Wallace, CA > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register > === http://www.vtr.org > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === > http://www.team.net/the-local > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: > 5/15/2007 10:47 AM > > No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 10:47 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 10:47 AM From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu May 17 09:18:48 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 11:18:48 EDT Subject: [Bmcu] [TR] RE: TR3 Oil Message-ID: In a message dated 5/17/2007 7:13:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, jerryvv at adelphia.net writes: > They are expensive and your original one has value. If > you decide to sell place it on E-Bay, you might be surprised at it's value. > > JVV > Hey Jerry, You know one could have bought that aluminum sump for $26.25 new in the early sixties as a competition accessory. What worth about a grand now? Of course OD was only $160! Those go for over 2 large huh? Anyone interested there is a TR3 and Herald accessory price list price list brochure on ebay Item number: 320115168677. Cheers, Darrell ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From Gbrovers at aol.com Thu May 17 09:38:49 2007 From: Gbrovers at aol.com (Gbrovers at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 11:38:49 EDT Subject: [Bmcu] =?iso-8859-1?q?Possible=A0_TR3_=26_Cortina_for_sale?= Message-ID: List & others Speakiing of TR3's, I have a friend (John Elliott) that is losing his storage and has a TR3 with lots of competition parts and also a Lotus Cortina. He indicated he might be interested in selling them. He says he knows what they are worth so it probably won't be a fire sale. If interested email me and I will forward the info to him. Bill ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From bill_beecher at flash.net Thu May 17 19:40:49 2007 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 19:40:49 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Old Catalogs Message-ID: Listers, I have a stack of old catalogs, mainly from TRF, VB and Moss from 1979 to 1990... but mostly the early to mid 80s, not all catalogs and all years. Mostly for Triumphs of all years. Does anyone collect these? Need to fill in any of the gaps? Free to a good home, just cover my shipping costs. about $8.00 should do it. BillB TR3 (TS-30766L) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.3/809 - Release Date: 5/17/2007 5:18 PM From wbeech at flash.net Thu May 17 22:18:22 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (William Beecher) Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 22:18:22 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [TR] RE: TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <000f01c797ef$d8928f50$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: Looks like it will be 7.25 US quarts for me with this supertanker oil pan! BillB TR3 (TS-30766L) "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day playing golf!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 1:25 PM To: William Beecher; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil I would guess that the difference is due to the difference in Imperial pints (20 oz.) vs. US pints (16 oz.). I f you adjust for this difference, 10 Imp. Pints = 6.25 US quarts, which would account for the difference you observed. I could confirm this by looking in the manual but it is in the garage and I am in the middle of something right now. Michael Marr Plainfield, IL > An interesting note: > The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have > been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is > 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol > 20/50 (as > recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil > filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of > minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the > dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts > or 1.4191 liters. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air: http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 10:47 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.3/809 - Release Date: 5/17/2007 5:18 PM From spitfiresrule at msn.com Thu May 17 22:41:20 2007 From: spitfiresrule at msn.com (MITCH D JOHNSON) Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 22:41:20 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Message-ID: Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? Mitch D. Johnson ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Zaremba To: spitfiresrule at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Hello, My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a chance that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust and header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter or air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on the DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the website mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will still require emissions certification. What would you suggest I do? I appreciate any advice you can offer... Thanks, Jon Zaremba From the-farr-side at att.net Fri May 18 07:34:35 2007 From: the-farr-side at att.net (the-farr-side at att.net) Date: Fri, 18 May 2007 13:34:35 +0000 Subject: [Bmcu] Living Traditions Festival Info Message-ID: <051820071334.8514.464DAB6B0004D25F0000214221612436460A0B079CD39D9D0E00D30A089B@att.net> > > More information: > > http://www.slcgov.com/arts/livingtraditions/ From beachbumbarry at msn.com Fri May 18 15:30:10 2007 From: beachbumbarry at msn.com (Barry Engstrum) Date: Fri, 18 May 2007 15:30:10 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area References: Message-ID: Jon, Sometimes adding alcohol, about 10%, will reduce the emissions from your car. With fresh oil and good tune-up it might pass. Does the car have a lot of miles on it? Using Red Line oil might also help. BarryE ----- Original Message ----- From: MITCH D JOHNSON To: BMCU Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:41 PM Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? Mitch D. Johnson ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Zaremba> To: spitfiresrule at msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Hello, My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a chance that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust and header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter or air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on the DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the website mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will still require emissions certification. What would you suggest I do? I appreciate any advice you can offer... Thanks, Jon Zaremba _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From dowshirey5499 at msn.com Fri May 18 17:47:56 2007 From: dowshirey5499 at msn.com (D Shirley) Date: Fri, 18 May 2007 17:47:56 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area In-Reply-To: Message-ID: There is always a choice to live about 20-30 min west of Salt Lake City, if you live in Tooele County, we don't have to pass an emissions test ;-) Makes registring my 74 and 79 Midgets much easier ;-) Good luck! Let us know how it works out! D. Dow Shirley -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barry Engstrum Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 3:30 PM To: MITCH D JOHNSON; jon at jonzaremba.com Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Jon, Sometimes adding alcohol, about 10%, will reduce the emissions from your car. With fresh oil and good tune-up it might pass. Does the car have a lot of miles on it? Using Red Line oil might also help. BarryE ----- Original Message ----- From: MITCH D JOHNSON To: BMCU Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:41 PM Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? Mitch D. Johnson ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Zaremba> To: spitfiresrule at msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Hello, My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a chance that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust and header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter or air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on the DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the website mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will still require emissions certification. What would you suggest I do? I appreciate any advice you can offer... Thanks, Jon Zaremba _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From stonestaff at mindspring.com Fri May 18 22:23:10 2007 From: stonestaff at mindspring.com (Clayton Merchant) Date: Fri, 18 May 2007 22:23:10 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Jon: I'm fairly confident, (not 100%) that the Utah testing does not require that all of the original smog crap be left intact in order to pass the test, unlike some other states on the west coast that shall remain nameless. It only has to meet a certain range of emmitted particulates. I know of at least one area garage that is helpful in making this happen. I would suggest that the car be in top tune and leaned out as much as possible and still be able to run prior to testing. Clayton -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of MITCH D JOHNSON Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:41 PM To: BMCU Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? Mitch D. Johnson ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Zaremba To: spitfiresrule at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Hello, My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a chance that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust and header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter or air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on the DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the website mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will still require emissions certification. What would you suggest I do? I appreciate any advice you can offer... Thanks, Jon Zaremba _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From dwspendy at msn.com Fri May 18 22:49:10 2007 From: dwspendy at msn.com (DAVID ANNE SPENDLOVE) Date: Fri, 18 May 2007 22:49:10 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Message-ID: Jon, Vehicles built prior to 1983 do not have to have all of the original emissions equipment still intact but they have to be tested and if your car is tuned good and a bit on the lean side it probably can pass.I take my Spitfire to The Little Garage Therald Bushman and his son Ryan are very easy to deal with and they can help you with adjustments and advice on what is needed to get it to pass.I know Baileys can probably help you with this too but I am not sure if he does emissions tests Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: D Shirley Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 5:47 PM To: 'Barry Engstrum'; 'MITCH D JOHNSON'; jon at jonzaremba.com Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area There is always a choice to live about 20-30 min west of Salt Lake City, if you live in Tooele County, we don't have to pass an emissions test ;-) Makes registring my 74 and 79 Midgets much easier ;-) Good luck! Let us know how it works out! D. Dow Shirley -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barry Engstrum Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 3:30 PM To: MITCH D JOHNSON; jon at jonzaremba.com Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Jon, Sometimes adding alcohol, about 10%, will reduce the emissions from your car. With fresh oil and good tune-up it might pass. Does the car have a lot of miles on it? Using Red Line oil might also help. BarryE ----- Original Message ----- From: MITCH D JOHNSON To: BMCU Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:41 PM Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? Mitch D. Johnson ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Zaremba> To: spitfiresrule at msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Hello, My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a chance that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust and header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter or air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on the DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the website mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will still require emissions certification. What would you suggest I do? I appreciate any advice you can offer... Thanks, Jon Zaremba _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From mark at bradakis.com Sat May 19 10:01:25 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sat, 19 May 2007 10:01:25 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <464F1F55.5070306@bradakis.com> >I know Baileys can probably help you with this too but I am not sure if >he does emissions tests > > > Yes, Bailey's does emissions test. We've been pretty busy lately, so it is best to call and schedule a time to come in. Gee, you'd think I'd remember the phone number by now! It is on the web page, http://baileysautomotive.com I need to head down there this morning and work on a car. I got this Midget running pretty well, but apparently something happened to it between the time I parked the car outside and when the owner came by to pick it up. See you at Living Traditions later this evening. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sat May 19 10:10:13 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sat, 19 May 2007 10:10:13 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Living Traditions Festival Info In-Reply-To: <051820071334.8514.464DAB6B0004D25F0000214221612436460A0B079CD39D9D0E00D30A089B@att.net> References: <051820071334.8514.464DAB6B0004D25F0000214221612436460A0B079CD39D9D0E00D30A089B@att.net> Message-ID: <464F2165.4030600@bradakis.com> Went down friday afternoon to see Alabama Slim, had a good time. I was a little surprised as I approached the site, seeing a chain link fence all around the premises. This event has always been open and free, I wondered why the fence? Turns out that by fencing the area, they could do away with the drunk pens, er, beer gardens, and allow free range beverages. So now you can do strange things like purchase an adult beverage to sip while standing in line for your red curry, or spinach and couscous, or the chocolate rasberry cake at the Swiss booth. Neat. mjb. From bobbyv52 at wirelessbeehive.com Sun May 20 08:56:39 2007 From: bobbyv52 at wirelessbeehive.com (bobbyv) Date: Sun, 20 May 2007 08:56:39 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] MG-TD Carb Message-ID: <00b601c79aef$12334680$0201fea9@owner3c> Having some problems keeping the car running smoothly. Starts up - take in for a spin, then it starts sputtering, dies around corners and seems like it is starving for fuel as I make it back home? Runs fine for awhile. Cleaned all the filters, pump is fine. Took a look at the jets, in which I found that one of the damper's that when removed, you put oil in the chamber assembly was missing the bottom C-clip. I took the chamber assembly off, drained the oil, turned it upside down, tapped it of table until the washer and other piece came out. Could not find the c-clip? Where did it go? Took the other one apart, the damper is complete with the c-clip. But when I tapped it on table, a small button? brass, with four little holes around it. It looks like a snap button?? The other chamber did not have one? Could this have been the problem? Is the car supposed to this small item? Should I replace both dampers? Help? From Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM Mon May 21 07:29:25 2007 From: Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM (Hermance, Jonathan) Date: Mon, 21 May 2007 07:29:25 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] MG-TD Carb In-Reply-To: <00b601c79aef$12334680$0201fea9@owner3c> References: <00b601c79aef$12334680$0201fea9@owner3c> Message-ID: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CB23@ut40se01.atk.com> Bobby, Sounds like the poor running may be due to some globules of water in the bottom of the float bowls on your carburetors. Water would cause a miss as well as dieing around corners. If there is water in the float bowls it needs to be removed and may recur if more water is in the fuel tank. As to the damper problem, all the parts, broken or otherwise, should be there. There is no place for them to go. Is there any chance the brass piston and/or missing c-clip are still stick in oil down inside the piston shaft you keep oil in when the carburetor is all together on the car? I don't recognize the snap-button you describe but it sounds like maybe it is supposed to hold the washer and brass piston on the shaft of the damper and doesn't do so very well. The correct c-clip or more expensively a new damper would likely work. Jon Hermance TC TD TF SLC UT -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bobbyv Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 8:57 AM To: bmcu Subject: [Bmcu] MG-TD Carb Having some problems keeping the car running smoothly. Starts up - take in for a spin, then it starts sputtering, dies around corners and seems like it is starving for fuel as I make it back home? Runs fine for awhile. Cleaned all the filters, pump is fine. Took a look at the jets, in which I found that one of the damper's that when removed, you put oil in the chamber assembly was missing the bottom C-clip. I took the chamber assembly off, drained the oil, turned it upside down, tapped it of table until the washer and other piece came out. Could not find the c-clip? Where did it go? Took the other one apart, the damper is complete with the c-clip. But when I tapped it on table, a small button? brass, with four little holes around it. It looks like a snap button?? The other chamber did not have one? Could this have been the problem? Is the car supposed to this small item? Should I replace both dampers? Help? From stradi at xmission.com Tue May 22 07:46:05 2007 From: stradi at xmission.com (Michael Scoggins) Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 07:46:05 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Weather for the Moab Run Message-ID: As of today Monday, the forecast for Moab looks just about perfect for this weekend. Around 90 days and mid 50's nights. That could all change by the weekend but so far so good. Have my new aluminum radiator and electric fan all installed, So my TR6 is ready to roll. No brake downs this year? This will be a great weekend event. Last years was a great time. Michael Scoggins From eastoncp at yahoo.com Tue May 22 11:29:36 2007 From: eastoncp at yahoo.com (Charles Easton) Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 10:29:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 In-Reply-To: <93C7FAEF6CFA7940BF52E5B7DC7E99AE8D5878@EXCHANGE-01.mtnam.org> Message-ID: <373971.76609.qm@web35315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My brother works closely with the media (he's the UDOT spokesman) and is willing to draft up a press release and send it off to the stations for us. He needs to know all the whos, whats, whys, whens, and wheres. I can get those off our website, but if there's something else you all wanted to mention or include, let me know. Especially details on St. Pauls. Let me know as soon as possible! Chuck Easton Dennis Hoagland wrote: I cannot be there until the end of June (first time in about 5 years). I will see if I can have someone get my Triumph and MGB there. Dennis Hoagland ________________________________ From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of Barry Engstrum Sent: Tue 5/15/2007 7:13 PM To: BMCU Membership; Wasatch MountainJaguarRegister; Gary Lindstrom Subject: Re: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 Gary / BMCUers, I think that the club needs a little more exposure for the BFD, an extra 200 - 300 people would help the cause. I think that some of the TV stations might do a short blurb on the event if they were approached about the help we give St.Paul's. The British car forum, Hemming's Motor News and Moss Motors might also run something about the event. The News papers do some event ads at no cost. Someone in the BMCU knows someone with connections ? I would like to have a great turnout. BarryE ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Lindstrom To: BMCU Membership ; Wasatch Mountain JaguarRegister Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 8:47 AM Subject: [Bmcu] British Field Day Saturday June 9 British Field Day at Liberty Park Saturday June 9th 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM British Field Day will be held at Liberty Park again this year. It is time for all British car and motorcycle enthusiasts to get their rigs out of the garage, clean them up and get them running as well as can be expected. All British cars and bikes in any condition from 100- point restorations to works in progress or an old daily beater are welcome. The more the merrier! All the British car/bike clubs are participating. Don't let those other marques make your club look like slackers. Call your fellow club members and get them to the event! http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcuistinfo/bmcu> _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu ***Confidentiality Notice: This message and any attachments are intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copying, or distribution of this message, or attachments, is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail and delete it from your computer.*** _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu --------------------------------- Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. From MichaelLKelly at aol.com Tue May 22 15:26:51 2007 From: MichaelLKelly at aol.com (MichaelLKelly at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 17:26:51 EDT Subject: [Bmcu] June 16th Celebration at Daybreak Message-ID: Hello, all, The Daybreak Community, in South Jordan, is having a community parade, antique and specialty auto display and a rock band with festivities on June 16th. Guests (that's us) can stay for the luau with food and entertainment, that evening, and there is a $10 charge for the food. If you'd like to strut that British stuff and wow them, let me know and I'll fill out an application for our group to participate in the parade. Details will be sent to those who respond. If anyone knows of contacts for other auto groups/clubs (Jaguar club, for example, Gary) please pass this along and share the information with them. If you have a fishing pole and license, the community has a lake with some pretty nice fish in it, too. Daybreak is a Kennecott debacle located west of Bangerter Highway/11400 S. Love to have you come, Mike Kelly ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From neilmcc at worldnet.att.net Sun May 20 10:01:13 2007 From: neilmcc at worldnet.att.net (Neil McCasland) Date: Sun, 20 May 2007 09:01:13 -0700 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <465070C9.9020308@worldnet.att.net> Bailey's tuned my '76 TR-6 up well enough to both pass the emissions tests (w/o some of the stuff) and to run well. Neil McC DAVID ANNE SPENDLOVE wrote: >Jon, >Vehicles built prior to 1983 do not have to have all of the original emissions >equipment still intact but they have to be tested and if your car is tuned >good and a bit on the lean side it probably can pass.I take my Spitfire to The >Little Garage Therald Bushman and his son Ryan are very easy to deal with and >they can help you with adjustments and advice on what is needed to get it to >pass.I know Baileys can probably help you with this too but I am not sure if >he does emissions tests >Dave > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: D Shirley >Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 5:47 PM >To: 'Barry Engstrum'; 'MITCH D JOHNSON'; jon at jonzaremba.com >Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > >There is always a choice to live about 20-30 min west of Salt Lake City, if >you live in Tooele County, we don't have to pass an emissions test ;-) >Makes registring my 74 and 79 Midgets much easier ;-) > >Good luck! > >Let us know how it works out! > >D. Dow Shirley > >-----Original Message----- >From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On >Behalf Of Barry Engstrum >Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 3:30 PM >To: MITCH D JOHNSON; jon at jonzaremba.com >Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > >Jon, Sometimes adding alcohol, about 10%, will reduce the emissions from >your car. With fresh oil and good tune-up it might pass. Does the car have >a lot of miles on it? Using Red Line oil might also help. >BarryE > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: MITCH D JOHNSON > To: BMCU > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:41 PM > Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > > > Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? > Mitch D. Johnson > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jon Zaremba> > To: >spitfiresrule at msn.comc >om> > Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM > Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > > > Hello, > > My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a >chance > that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I > understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust > and > header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter > or > air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. > > Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on > the > DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the >website > mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will >still > require emissions certification. > > What would you suggest I do? > > I appreciate any advice you can offer... > > Thanks, > Jon Zaremba > _______________________________________________ > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcuistinfo/bmcu> >_______________________________________________ >Bmcu mailing list >Bmcu at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu >_______________________________________________ >Bmcu mailing list >Bmcu at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu >_______________________________________________ >Bmcu mailing list >Bmcu at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From wbeech at flash.net Wed May 23 01:06:20 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 23 May 2007 01:06:20 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area In-Reply-To: <465070C9.9020308@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <20070523070423.57217187A22@autox.team.net> Welcom to Salt Lake! BB -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil McCasland Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 10:01 AM To: DAVID ANNE SPENDLOVE Cc: jon at jonzaremba.com; bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area Bailey's tuned my '76 TR-6 up well enough to both pass the emissions tests (w/o some of the stuff) and to run well. Neil McC DAVID ANNE SPENDLOVE wrote: >Jon, >Vehicles built prior to 1983 do not have to have all of the original emissions >equipment still intact but they have to be tested and if your car is tuned >good and a bit on the lean side it probably can pass.I take my Spitfire to The >Little Garage Therald Bushman and his son Ryan are very easy to deal with and >they can help you with adjustments and advice on what is needed to get it to >pass.I know Baileys can probably help you with this too but I am not sure if >he does emissions tests >Dave > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: D Shirley >Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 5:47 PM >To: 'Barry Engstrum'; 'MITCH D JOHNSON'; jon at jonzaremba.com >Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > >There is always a choice to live about 20-30 min west of Salt Lake City, if >you live in Tooele County, we don't have to pass an emissions test ;-) >Makes registring my 74 and 79 Midgets much easier ;-) > >Good luck! > >Let us know how it works out! > >D. Dow Shirley > >-----Original Message----- >From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On >Behalf Of Barry Engstrum >Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 3:30 PM >To: MITCH D JOHNSON; jon at jonzaremba.com >Cc: bmcu at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > >Jon, Sometimes adding alcohol, about 10%, will reduce the emissions from >your car. With fresh oil and good tune-up it might pass. Does the car have >a lot of miles on it? Using Red Line oil might also help. >BarryE > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: MITCH D JOHNSON > To: BMCU > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:41 PM > Subject: [Bmcu] Fw: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > > > Can anyone help this gentleman out with some advice? > Mitch D. Johnson > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jon Zaremba> > To: >spitfiresrule at msn.comc >om> > Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM > Subject: Emissions in Salt Lake Area > > > Hello, > > My name is Jon Zaremba. I'm a proud owner of a 79 MG B. There's a >chance > that i'll be moving to the Salt Lake area for work this summer. I > understand that my car will need to face an emissions test. The exhaust > and > header have been upgraded to a Peco. There's no more catalytic converter > or > air pump. I doubt that it will pass the test. > > Do you know of any loopholes or ways around this? I've researched it on > the > DMV website. Utah offers some classic and antique plates, but the >website > mentions that if it is a classic but less than 40 years old, it will >still > require emissions certification. > > What would you suggest I do? > > I appreciate any advice you can offer... > > Thanks, > Jon Zaremba > _______________________________________________ > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcuistinfo/bmcu> >_______________________________________________ >Bmcu mailing list >Bmcu at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu >_______________________________________________ >Bmcu mailing list >Bmcu at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu >_______________________________________________ >Bmcu mailing list >Bmcu at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From wbeech at flash.net Thu May 24 08:50:21 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 24 May 2007 08:50:21 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] BMIHT Certificate Quandry Message-ID: <20070524144822.57ABA187B52@autox.team.net> Good morning List, Just got the Cert back on my '58 TR3, now I am thrilled and confused. If someone on the list knows how the numbers work, perhaps you can collectively help me with the following questions: 1. The Commission Number stamped on the plate in the car is TS/30766-L, but they are giving me TS/30766-LO (with overdrive, a good thing). But why wouldn't the plate stamping reflect this as well? 2. The loose engine that came with the car is listed on the Cert, a good thing, but the tranny that is loose with it does not have nor does it show to have had the O/D unit on it. Perhaps not the original tranny? 3. The Body Number on the Cert, 986001-TS, seems like a number that is far and away for the series that it should be, unless I am looking in the wrong place. My understanding is that the plate on the firewall above the battery is the body number, EB 30861, not even close. Am I looking in the right place? 4. Options listed are Wire Wheels(got these), Overdrive(not there), Heater(has been removed) and Whitewall tyres. There is a 5.90-15 whitewall Dunlop Gold Seal in the spare compartment, could this be the original tire? It is old and not in great shape. 5. It is currently red with black interior, which I prefer. The Cert says it should be black with red(leather) interior. I there a reference somewhere to show just how the colors go together? i.e seats, carpet, door panels & dash(my dash is red with a black glovebox door and instrument panel) Any help on one or more of these would be greatly appreciated. All the best, BillB TS/30766-L(O) From odernheimer at juno.com Thu May 24 16:41:50 2007 From: odernheimer at juno.com (odernheimer at juno.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2007 22:41:50 GMT Subject: [Bmcu] wire wheels Message-ID: <20070524.154249.29529.3216325@webmail25.lax.untd.com> Anybody know of a reputable and knowledgeable place in the Salt Lake area to have wire wheels mounted and balanced? I have new set and I'd like to find someone who's done it before and knows how the wheel needs to be mounted on the balancer for a correct balance. Mike Odernheimer From wbeech at flash.net Thu May 24 23:45:07 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 24 May 2007 23:45:07 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [British-cars] [TR] BMIHT Certificate Quandry In-Reply-To: <002e01c79e5a$3d8b67e0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20070525054306.2D568187A45@autox.team.net> John, Thank you very kindly for a very clear 'day in the life' of this data that we are all trying to access for our individual vehicles. While the cert that began this thread has very little additional data i.e no other recored number, date of despatch or destination other than "USA", does the high body number, 986001-TS, and it's format not seem odd to you as a production number for this time, 1958? Also, after your explaination do you believe that the 'Build Record' that John H. mentioned would carry any additional data for this car? All the best, BillB TS/30766-LO -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 5:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net; bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] [TR] BMIHT Certificate Quandry At the risk of too many words on this issue, I'd like to speak on behalf of the guys at BMIHT who issue the build certificates as they are known to me personally and up to 2002, I periodically worked closely with them in the determination of data before certificates could be issued to people who had requested them. However, I think it's appropriate to scotch a myth (or two?) in the process. John Herrera wrote, "BMIHT certs come from records made before the car was built. The records show how a car was planned to be built, but due to shortages or parts availabilty the car may have been built differently from the planned configuration. This explains why some cars differ from the BMIHT certs." With respect John, I'm inclined to think someone has 'led you up the garden path' a bit on that statement :) Perhaps you're unaware of the importance and accuracy of what was known in different factories as the "Works Card" or "Build Record" and at Standard-Triumph as the "Prod Tally." This is the card that went with every car through the production process. Not only does it record all the production and line build fitments but it also records other data that does not appear on the BMIHT record. With the exception of the commission number that was always printed, all other numbers are handwritten. They couldn't be typed or printed in advance because no-one knew with absolute certainty what those numbers were going to be. An example would be the piston grading for each engine - and that data will come from a similar build card that followed an engine through its production until it was mated up with the transmission and body at 'build drop.' Furthermore, it would not be possible to build differently from the planned configuration because in the event of production shortages, the car could not and would not be released to the Sales Department or the delivery company until it had: 1. Had all listed shortages rectified and fitted, and 2. Had passed final inspection. That would take place only when all the shortages on the shortage list had been fulfilled. To pass off final inspection and final finish as well, no car could be regarded as fully complete until it had had all the Quality Control and Inspection Department stamps on the Works Card / Build Record / Prod Tally. Only when it had gone through this process could it be released to the Sales Departments (Home or Export) who in turn would release it to the delivery company to move it off site. As Geoff Hahn wrote, "My understanding is that they are reading a microfilm of a 3x5 card that traveled down the line with the vehicle -- subject to grease stains, tea stains or whatever -- and may not have been all that legible in the first place." Geoff is almost right on the button in this case. While the Prod Tally was highly legible as the car emerged from the Paint Shop, by the very nature of the document, it did progressively get very grubby indeed and made later interrogation saometimes very difficult. However, BMIHT don't just check the "Prod Tally" for Standard-Triumph cars before issuing a certificate. As many will know, *triangulation* is often the way to verify data. In this respect, all the info on the "Prod Tally" is then compared against another microfilmed copy of the original sales invoice to the importer (for export markets) and the selling dealer for UK Home market. This invoice replicates data from the Prod Tally and when the invoice was written (typed out on a Roneo skin) the Prod Tally was the source only document. And again, on shipments made after 1962 to the U.S. it was the factory's responsibility to issue a Certificate of Origin for each and every car that was shipped. That document was produced by another section within the Export Sales operation and again, the "Prod Tally" was the info source. That general process followed by BMIHT applies equally to all Austins, Austin Healeys, Land/Range Rovers, Morrises, MG's, Rileys, Rovers and Wolseleys and there's one helluva lot of enthusiasts for those makes wanting Certs as well! Now I don't know what BMIHT currently does in the production of certificates since I left four or so years back, but I know the guys who do the research and as they're both enthusiasts themselves, they strive really hard to get the info RIGHT the first time around. Okay, no-one can claim that interpretation and typo mistakes aren't possible and I reckon those guys concerned will admit they've made one or two. Usually if they have and it's proven to them, they'll correct it and issue another certificate. But please give them a break and understand what they're up against. Speaking from personal experience when I occasionally helped them out when the workload became excessive, I came to know what it was like to spend several hours looking at a very 'grainy' microfilm of "Prod Tallies" then invoices, then Certs of Origin to 'triangulate' the data I had and to ensure it was right. Now that's bad enough, but when the person sending in the info obviously can't write intelligible English (even though it's his mother tongue) and his handwriting looks as though he did it with his left foot while asleep, you'll comprehend that proving a vehicle's true origin can be a pain in extremis. I hope this does something to set the BMIHT record straight? As for the sidescreen TR that had an overdrive but now seems to have lost it, my guess is it was taken out at a later date after leaving the UK and now sits in another car. Equally, where a body number on a vehicle doesn't tie up with the original build record, anything could have happened and a body swap after an accident or during an earlier rebuild is a very likely possibility. Jonmac _______________________________________________ British-cars mailing list British-cars at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars From duff_lawson at att.net Sat May 26 08:03:50 2007 From: duff_lawson at att.net (duff_lawson at att.net) Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 14:03:50 +0000 Subject: [Bmcu] wire wheels Message-ID: <052620071403.28391.46583E46000A41CD00006EE7216124364602019C990E04A100009A0B@att.net> Mike, Russ' alignment, 1915 So. Redwood Rd., 973-7439, is the ONLY place left in the valley that still does a spin balance, on the vehicle! This is far and away the best method for Dayton's. duff -------------- Original message from "odernheimer at juno.com" : -------------- > Anybody know of a reputable and knowledgeable place in the Salt Lake area to > have wire wheels mounted and balanced? I have new set and I'd like to find > someone who's done it before and knows how the wheel needs to be mounted on > the balancer for a correct balance. > Mike Odernheimer > _______________________________________________ > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu From wbeech at flash.net Sat May 26 10:00:32 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 10:00:32 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] wire wheels In-Reply-To: <052620071403.28391.46583E46000A41CD00006EE7216124364602019C990E04A100009A0B@att.net> Message-ID: <20070526155829.C199E1879F0@autox.team.net> Haven't been there yet but but Lee at the local Les Schwab in Heber tells me that he has and can mount and spin-bal my wires with no problems. FYI, they have access to the Coker line of old-style tires, list prices no discounts. BilB TS-30766L(O) -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of duff_lawson at att.net Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 8:04 AM To: odernheimer at juno.com; Bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Bmcu] wire wheels Mike, Russ' alignment, 1915 So. Redwood Rd., 973-7439, is the ONLY place left in the valley that still does a spin balance, on the vehicle! This is far and away the best method for Dayton's. duff -------------- Original message from "odernheimer at juno.com" : -------------- > Anybody know of a reputable and knowledgeable place in the Salt Lake > area to have wire wheels mounted and balanced? I have new set and I'd > like to find someone who's done it before and knows how the wheel > needs to be mounted on the balancer for a correct balance. > Mike Odernheimer > _______________________________________________ > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/819 - Release Date: 5/26/2007 10:47 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/819 - Release Date: 5/26/2007 10:47 AM From wbeech at flash.net Tue May 29 22:38:18 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 22:38:18 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Tight Steering Message-ID: <20070530043606.D0668187AEA@autox.team.net> Still going through this car and I find that the entire front steering linkage, control arms, shocks and bushings are all new. I guess I should be real happy as this could not have been an inexpensive procedure. It looks very well done with all the zerk well lubricated & safety wire in place. My question is this: When I drive the steering is extremely heavy, hard to turn and does not return to center after a turn. There is a little play in the steering wheel, 3"-4" side-to-side but I don't think that is related to the stiffness. When I jack the front end up, the steering freely moves from lock-to-lock, just over two turns. Could something be too tight that just shows up when the weight of the car is on the wheels?? Any suggestions from the list are greatly appreciated..... BillB TR3 TS/30766-LO "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day fishing!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.3/824 - Release Date: 5/29/2007 1:01 PM From Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM Wed May 30 07:43:04 2007 From: Jonathan.Hermance at ATK.COM (Hermance, Jonathan) Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 07:43:04 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] wire wheels In-Reply-To: <20070524.154249.29529.3216325@webmail25.lax.untd.com> References: <20070524.154249.29529.3216325@webmail25.lax.untd.com> Message-ID: <17A7303D2D920945961624A9BD19547094CB4A@ut40se01.atk.com> Mike, I have a fixture made out of an MG TF hub and knock-off for inserting in a wire wheel before putting it on the dynamic wheel balancer. The fixture pretty well assures proper centering of the wire wheel on the balance machine. You and any BMCU club member are welcome to borrow it. I take my wire wheels and fixture to Jacks Tire and Oil now at California St. and Redwood Road. I lost some of Jack's T&O glue-on weights off a TC wheel on the return from MOAB yesterday, but basically am satisfied with the balance on my wire wheels from these guys. Jon SLC UT -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of odernheimer at juno.com Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 4:42 PM To: Bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: [Bmcu] wire wheels Anybody know of a reputable and knowledgeable place in the Salt Lake area to have wire wheels mounted and balanced? I have new set and I'd like to find someone who's done it before and knows how the wheel needs to be mounted on the balancer for a correct balance. Mike Odernheimer From wbeech at flash.net Wed May 30 09:36:09 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 09:36:09 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] [TR] Tight Steering In-Reply-To: <000901c7a2a2$c8b56040$3d29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <20070530153413.02B2D187AE4@autox.team.net> Thanks to all that responded, I'll start doing some further investigation now. 1. Jack up and support it by the suspension and check it out that way 2. Have the front-end alignment checked, do not know if the PO ever did this when new parts were installed. 3. I wiggled everything and did not notice anything to be loose, but will have someone re-check when we do the alignment. BTW, wheels are the stock 48 spoke wires with properly inflated skinny 155-R-15 metric radials. Probably need to be balanced as I notice a little hopping over 60MPH Stay tuned for details. BillB TR3 TS/30766-LO "A bad day in your TR is better than a good day fishing!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Nolan Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 4:11 AM To: wbeech; triumphs at autox.team.net; Bmcu at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tight Steering Wheels come to mind initially. If you've gone aftermarket on the wheels, and have changed the offset, you can drastically change the force required to turn the steering wheel. Otherwise, jack the car again, but put jack stands under the a-arms to get the suspension in the on-the-road positions, and then check the steering for stiffness. If it's supple, the problem is with the tires, re-the above paragraph. You can also create a stiff(er) steering with oversize tires, and very sticky tires. Generically, skinny tires made from hard rubber rotate on the pavement pretty easily. Wider tires with sticky compounds don't rotate as easily, especially the sections of the tire further out from the center of rotation. ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" Subject: [TR] Tight Steering > Still going through this car and I find that the entire front steering > linkage, control arms, shocks and bushings are all new. I guess I should > be > real happy as this could not have been an inexpensive procedure. It looks > very well done with all the zerk well lubricated & safety wire in place. > > My question is this: > When I drive the steering is extremely heavy, hard to turn and does not > return to center after a turn. There is a little play in the steering > wheel, 3"-4" side-to-side but I don't think that is related to the > stiffness. When I jack the front end up, the steering freely moves from > lock-to-lock, just over two turns. Could something be too tight that just > shows up when the weight of the car is on the wheels?? Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air: http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.3/824 - Release Date: 5/29/2007 1:01 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.3/824 - Release Date: 5/29/2007 1:01 PM From gary at cs.utah.edu Wed May 30 12:26:00 2007 From: gary at cs.utah.edu (Gary Lindstrom) Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:26:00 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] Memorial Day Run report and photos Message-ID: <465DC1B8.1050607@cs.utah.edu> See http://www.britishmotorclub.org/2007/MemDay07/ Those of you who were on the trip: I'd love to include your photos -- email them to me if you're willing to share them. Cheers, --Gary From gary at cs.utah.edu Thu May 31 10:14:44 2007 From: gary at cs.utah.edu (Gary Lindstrom) Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 10:14:44 -0600 Subject: [Bmcu] june newsletter is out Message-ID: <465EF474.3080101@cs.utah.edu> See http://www.britishmotorclub.org/news/2007/june07.pdf Enjoy, --Gary