From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  3 11:36:11 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 10:36:11 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Alpines] LAST CALL - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 &
 7, 2008
Message-ID: <13419006.1220463371785.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

WEBSITE:
         www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008
The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at
Sierra
Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again
gather
in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car?
Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress
are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo
Alto
British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of
automotive
oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for
free.

SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th

Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be
handled
by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their
doors
on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra
will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no
preregistration.
There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a
commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate.

SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse
(the
same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea.
Itbs
no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them.
We
will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM.  A detailed map will be
provided.
The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking
tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon.

Call for information:  310-392-6605
e-mail:  <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>

DIRECTIONS:

The Brisbane Marina is located just east of the Bayshore Freeway
(101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just
take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site.

LODGING ALTERNATIVES:

BEST DEAL! Right at the Brisbane  Marina. The Radisson, very upscale, business
type
hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109
per
night, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway,
Brisbane,
phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car  eet rates.

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sun Sep  7 11:51:13 2008
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 10:51:13 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] Bonneville World of Speed...
Message-ID: <48C41491.1060608@mayfco.com>

Folks, the world's fastest sunbeam (wannabe) will not make the trip to 
the salt in September. I had recent dental surgery, 8 implants installed 
and my mouth is a wreck. I had planned for the operation to occur in mid 
Agust which would have been fine but it slid out until Sept 4th. I had 
major bone grafting to allow the implants to be installed and that took 
longer to ossify and heal than expected.  I am still eating mush or 
similar.

And the car is missing some of it's instrumentation. The Innovate air 
fuel sensor controller went belly up and it is off being repaired.  And 
the car is in great need of additional weight and some longitudinal 
stability. As verified by the last run I made at Speed Week. Whooeeee! 
With the water injection off and some new found spark advance I headed 
down the salt at a truly blistering pace. I hit my rpm  almost a mile or 
more faster than ever before (ie my on pace rpm would generally be at 
the 3 mile but I was there at 1.2 mils this time).. And then some slick 
salt, lol. Rear end slid out when traction was lost. So I need to add 
about 500 or 600 lbs to the car   to account for teh added torque at teh 
rear wheels, change its polar moment of inertia upward and add some aero 
stability as well in the form of a spoiler.  So lots of work to do 
before I go back.

Very sorry to disappoint all of you who have ben very supportive. Just 
not possible right now.

mayf, sadly

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sun Sep  7 16:06:53 2008
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 15:06:53 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] Soem Help for teh Bonneville Sunbeam..
Message-ID: <48C4507D.7040303@mayfco.com>

sitting here listening to my gums heal I got to thinking... those clunky 
headlight rims I have on the car are trult un aerodynamic devices.  I 
know there were the nifty ones on the MKII cars but are therrrre any 
others that I might use like those? One that can be obained with a small 
cash outlay and refurbished to work? How about some shaped aluminum for 
headlight simulation withing those headlight rims? Any ideas out there?

mayf

From jarrid_gross at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  7 20:06:33 2008
From: jarrid_gross at earthlink.net (jarrid_gross at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 19:06:33 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Alpines] Soem Help for teh Bonneville Sunbeam..
Message-ID: <25824229.1220839594282.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Mayf,

Make a form negative out of Styrofoam and make one out of fiberglass.

Fill it, sand smooth and paint a faux headlight in the center.

The resin fumes are probably better than vicodin too, though not for your kidneys.

My $0.01

Jarrid Gross

-----Original Message-----
>From: drmayf <drmayf at mayfco.com>
>Sent: Sep 7, 2008 3:06 PM
>To: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>, Alpines <alpines at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Alpines] Soem Help for teh Bonneville Sunbeam..
>
>sitting here listening to my gums heal I got to thinking... those clunky 
>headlight rims I have on the car are trult un aerodynamic devices.  I 
>know there were the nifty ones on the MKII cars but are therrrre any 
>others that I might use like those? One that can be obained with a small 
>cash outlay and refurbished to work? How about some shaped aluminum for 
>headlight simulation withing those headlight rims? Any ideas out there?
>
>mayf
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Alpines at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From prbreuhan at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  8 08:14:40 2008
From: prbreuhan at hotmail.com (Paul R. Breuhan)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 10:14:40 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Some Help for The Bonneville Sunbeam..MK2 Headlight
	Rims...
In-Reply-To: <48C4507D.7040303@mayfco.com>
References: <48C4507D.7040303@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <BAY114-W35774462B143B946312521AA550@phx.gbl>

Mayf,
If you can wait...I will be working up some MK2 headlight rims in a plastic
resin after the TEAE United in October...so I would guess early/mid November I
would have something available.

Also spun aluminum headlight covers can be found at Pegasus Auto Racing...you
can also get the classic Lucas PL-700 Tri-pod series round headlamp as decals
from them (if you like that look) for your race car.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=4851

Paul


> Subject: [Tigers] Soem Help for teh Bonneville Sunbeam..> > sitting here
listening to my gums heal I got to thinking... those clunky > headlight rims I
have on the car are trult un aerodynamic devices. I > know there were the
nifty ones on the MKII cars but are therrrre any > others that I might use
like those? One that can be obained with a small > cash outlay and refurbished
to work? How about some shaped aluminum for > headlight simulation withing
those headlight rims? Any ideas out there?> > mayf
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008

From lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi  Tue Sep  9 04:03:11 2008
From: lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi (=?us-ascii?Q?=3Fauri_Lehtinen?=)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 13:03:11 +0300
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W35774462B143B946312521AA550@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCCEPDCMAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>

Hi folks,
has anyone cut and welded an aluminium intake manifold?
In theory it could be posseble to cut and weld a H120 dual weber manifold to
fit series Alpine, but I am quite sure the intake channels do?'t hit if
there is a part missing. Has anyone tried?

Lauri, Finland

From tom.hill at att.net  Tue Sep  9 06:25:18 2008
From: tom.hill at att.net (tom.hill at att.net)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 12:25:18 +0000
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
In-Reply-To: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCCEPDCMAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
References: <BAY114-W35774462B143B946312521AA550@phx.gbl>
	<JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCCEPDCMAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
Message-ID: <090920081225.29788.48C66B2E00020DC80000745C22230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF04040708D203019B@att.net>

B Hi Lauri, B I did exactly what you are talking about. B The welding wasn't
much of a problem. B However, I was not able to use the manifold because of
clearance issues with the steering box. B The manifold was cut and welded to
mount the carbs at the maximum angle allowed but it still wouldn't fit. B I
ended up using a manifold intended for a standard Alpine head and Webers. B I
had to weld up the intake ports a little to match the Holbay head.


tom hill -------------- Original message from ?auri Lehtinen
<lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi>: --------------


> Hi folks,
> has anyone cut and welded an aluminium intake manifold?
> In theory it could be posseble to cut and weld a H120 dual weber manifold
to
> fit series Alpine, but I am quite sure the intake channels do?'t hit if
> there is a part missing. Has anyone tried?
>
> Lauri, Finland
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Alpines at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wiencek at anl.gov  Tue Sep  9 13:21:52 2008
From: wiencek at anl.gov (Wiencek, Thomas)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 14:21:52 -0500
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
In-Reply-To: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCCEPDCMAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
References: <BAY114-W35774462B143B946312521AA550@phx.gbl>
	<JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCCEPDCMAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
Message-ID: <BC9AFCE99A1EB24DBFCD6FDA79DB61B134F8EA@NE-EXCH.ne.anl.gov>

The SAOC England has an article about doing this.  Anyone have a copy
handy?

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
?auri Lehtinen
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 5:03 AM
To: Alpines
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold

Hi folks,
has anyone cut and welded an aluminium intake manifold?
In theory it could be posseble to cut and weld a H120 dual weber
manifold to
fit series Alpine, but I am quite sure the intake channels do?'t hit if
there is a part missing. Has anyone tried?

Lauri, Finland
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Tue Sep  9 14:04:11 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 16:04:11 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
In-Reply-To: <BC9AFCE99A1EB24DBFCD6FDA79DB61B134F8EA@NE-EXCH.ne.anl.gov>
Message-ID: <E1Kd9NM-0006px-39@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I've seen a writeup; will look.

Manifold off a Hunter has to be cut and arc welded minus 10 degrees of
slope to offset the Alpine vertical engine setup. Hunter engines lean
10 degrees.

Acutally that maybe should be 11 to 15 degrees if those carbs prefer a
5 degree slant to work best.

I've seen dcoe's on alpines but never asked which manifold.

As noted the stock alpine manifold will work excespt that port sizes
do not match.

Allan 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wiencek, Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:22 PM
To: ?auri Lehtinen; Alpines
Subject: Re: [Alpines] welding manifold

The SAOC England has an article about doing this.  Anyone have a copy
handy?

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
?auri Lehtinen
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 5:03 AM
To: Alpines
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold

Hi folks,
has anyone cut and welded an aluminium intake manifold?
In theory it could be posseble to cut and weld a H120 dual weber
manifold to fit series Alpine, but I am quite sure the intake channels
do?'t hit if there is a part missing. Has anyone tried?

Lauri, Finland
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From gstrom99 at joimail.com  Tue Sep  9 19:48:01 2008
From: gstrom99 at joimail.com (Gary)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:48:01 -0500
Subject: [Alpines] Soem Help for teh Bonneville Sunbeam..
References: <48C4507D.7040303@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <FAB59849B57342F3952237EAC69F1D4B@RacerX>

I actually picked up some chrome ones off an MG from a junk yard, which fit 
pretty good on the Thunderpine.  Since the MG/Triumph stuff all use the 
Lucas lamps, they should also fit.  You'd need to massage the top of the 
fender (take off the peak since the rings are round) or you could also 
modify the ring, to put the ridge/peak into it, but that might be more 
work...  Aero is much more important to you, than me...  Good luck.

Gary Strom

From gstrom99 at joimail.com  Tue Sep  9 19:58:59 2008
From: gstrom99 at joimail.com (Gary)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:58:59 -0500
Subject: [Alpines] Soem Help for teh Bonneville Sunbeam..
References: <48C4507D.7040303@mayfco.com>
	<FAB59849B57342F3952237EAC69F1D4B@RacerX>
Message-ID: <68FCEBAE5BB44CE29850C1D267DB0E7E@RacerX>

My reply was for replacing the headlight rings...  Sorry, maybe I misread 
the post.  Since you obviously don't need the rings for headlights you don't 
have, you could use those headlight "covers" from Pegasus, or make your own 
from a couple of "moon" style hubcaps.

Gary

From paul at bit.net.au  Wed Sep 10 14:30:06 2008
From: paul at bit.net.au (Paul Heuer)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 06:00:06 +0930
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
Message-ID: <3CB9564B-2DD8-4E60-B411-812BB8E525B6@bit.net.au>

Remember that the SAOC article will probably be for a RHD Alpine. The  
hassle with LHD is you need to clear the steering box & hydraulic  
master cylinders as well as all the structural guff. Not impossible,  
just less room to play with.
Cheers,
Paul in Adelaide, Australia
S3 ST, RHD

From armorseal at spiretech.com  Fri Sep 12 12:30:18 2008
From: armorseal at spiretech.com (Chuck Nicodemus)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 11:30:18 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] site down?
Message-ID: <EFB7BC7F7B184480A89198D35BE52B9F@chuckvnootxuli>

Is the saoca site down?

Chuck

"Devote your life to what you want to be, not what you are"
Marty Robbins 1965

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Fri Sep 12 12:37:18 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:37:18 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] site down?
In-Reply-To: <EFB7BC7F7B184480A89198D35BE52B9F@chuckvnootxuli>
Message-ID: <E1KeDRq-0004Cv-FL@elasmtp-curtail.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Looks like the main Forum section is still down. 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chuck Nicodemus
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 2:30 PM
To: Alpine List
Subject: [Alpines] site down?

Is the saoca site down?

Chuck

"Devote your life to what you want to be, not what you are"
Marty Robbins 1965
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From bmounce at rcn.com  Sun Sep 14 12:25:34 2008
From: bmounce at rcn.com (Bill Mounce)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 14:25:34 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] window regulator repair
Message-ID: <002301c91697$4752a0c0$d5f7e240$@com>

Hello all

 

My window regulator in my SV is pretty shot, and I have located a repair
kit.  Not cheap, but a repair kit.  Has anyone ever used one of these?  If
so, is the repair difficult, and does it seem to work?

 

Also, I lost the rain gutter that goes up the passengers side of the
windshield.  Might anyone have an extra one?  This is the bit that gets
screwed down with the weatherstripping.

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Bill Mounce

 

1967 SV aka The Paperweight

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Sun Sep 14 16:25:51 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 18:25:51 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
In-Reply-To: <E1Kd9NM-0006px-39@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E1Kezy5-0008Dh-Cp@elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

A related question .. ?

The Holbay engine Sunbeams used Weber 40DCOE35 - I think. I'm pretty
sure they were used on Hunters, not sure about the H120 Rapier.

Does the "35" in "40DCOE35" indicate anything in particular ? 

I tried to find this on the 'net but no luck. 

Perhaps the "35" is the choke size?

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 4:04 PM
To: 'Wiencek, Thomas'; '?auri Lehtinen'; 'Alpines'
Subject: Re: [Alpines] welding manifold

I've seen a writeup; will look.

Manifold off a Hunter has to be cut and arc welded minus 10 degrees of
slope to offset the Alpine vertical engine setup. Hunter engines lean
10 degrees.

Acutally that maybe should be 11 to 15 degrees if those carbs prefer a
5 degree slant to work best.

I've seen dcoe's on alpines but never asked which manifold.

As noted the stock alpine manifold will work excespt that port sizes
do not match.

Allan 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wiencek, Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:22 PM
To: ?auri Lehtinen; Alpines
Subject: Re: [Alpines] welding manifold

The SAOC England has an article about doing this.  Anyone have a copy
handy?

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
?auri Lehtinen
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 5:03 AM
To: Alpines
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold

Hi folks,
has anyone cut and welded an aluminium intake manifold?
In theory it could be posseble to cut and weld a H120 dual weber
manifold to fit series Alpine, but I am quite sure the intake channels
do?'t hit if there is a part missing. Has anyone tried?

Lauri, Finland
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From carlynneracing at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 14 18:08:45 2008
From: carlynneracing at sbcglobal.net (Carl McLelland)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 17:08:45 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
References: <E1Kezy5-0008Dh-Cp@elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3F3B62CB8AF34F399908AC7298C40AF2@owner33025ef87>

I think you'll find that "40" is the venturi size and "35" a series number.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Allan Ballard
  To: 'Allan Ballard' ; 'Wiencek, Thomas' ; '?auri Lehtinen' ; 'Alpines'
  Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 3:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [Alpines] welding manifold


  A related question .. ?

  The Holbay engine Sunbeams used Weber 40DCOE35 - I think. I'm pretty
  sure they were used on Hunters, not sure about the H120 Rapier.

  Does the "35" in "40DCOE35" indicate anything in particular ?

  I tried to find this on the 'net but no luck.

  Perhaps the "35" is the choke size?

  -----Original Message-----
  From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
  [mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
  Behalf Of Allan Ballard
  Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 4:04 PM
  To: 'Wiencek, Thomas'; '?auri Lehtinen'; 'Alpines'
  Subject: Re: [Alpines] welding manifold

  I've seen a writeup; will look.

  Manifold off a Hunter has to be cut and arc welded minus 10 degrees of
  slope to offset the Alpine vertical engine setup. Hunter engines lean
  10 degrees.

  Acutally that maybe should be 11 to 15 degrees if those carbs prefer a
  5 degree slant to work best.

  I've seen dcoe's on alpines but never asked which manifold.

  As noted the stock alpine manifold will work excespt that port sizes
  do not match.

  Allan

  -----Original Message-----
  From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
  [mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
  Behalf Of Wiencek, Thomas
  Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:22 PM
  To: ?auri Lehtinen; Alpines
  Subject: Re: [Alpines] welding manifold

  The SAOC England has an article about doing this.  Anyone have a copy
  handy?

  -----Original Message-----
  From: alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net
  [mailto:alpines-bounces+wiencek=anl.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
  ?auri Lehtinen
  Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 5:03 AM
  To: Alpines
  Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold

  Hi folks,
  has anyone cut and welded an aluminium intake manifold?
  In theory it could be posseble to cut and weld a H120 dual weber
  manifold to fit series Alpine, but I am quite sure the intake channels
  do?'t hit if there is a part missing. Has anyone tried?

  Lauri, Finland
  Alpines at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

  http://www.team.net/archive
  Alpines at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

  http://www.team.net/archive
  Alpines at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

  http://www.team.net/archive
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Alpines at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

  http://www.team.net/archive

From jarrid_gross at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 14 19:57:51 2008
From: jarrid_gross at earthlink.net (jarrid_gross at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 18:57:51 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
Message-ID: <16990337.1221443871490.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

>I think you'll find that "40" is the venturi size and "35" a series number.

Nope, 40 is the throttle diameter, and 35 is the Weber special model designation, which
is a specific combination of internals (most importantly the main and aux chokes) for a specific application.

The typical venturi/choke size for a 40mm DCO is between 27 and 32mm, 29 being the most common.


Jarrid Gross

From JACranwell at aol.com  Mon Sep 15 03:47:51 2008
From: JACranwell at aol.com (JACranwell at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 05:47:51 EDT
Subject: [Alpines] welding manifold
Message-ID: <d0b.338a34a9.35ff8947@aol.com>

For what it's worth, I run my SIII with a Webber 28/32 DCD, which is a twin 
choke, progressive downdraft, and bolts straight on in place of the original 
Solex.
I believe that, again the 28/32 designates the throttle sizes. The 
progressive part is such that the larger throttle starts to open when the main throttle 
is 75% open, and catches up, so they are both fully open at full throttle.

The performance is excellent, and I believe better than the twin-Stromberg 
option, which I found a bit of a pain to keep tuned due to the steep angle of 
the carbs/manifold. Also, my car is a leftie, so all sorts of bits get in the 
way of the Stromberg setup.

Julian.    

From hunber at bellsouth.net  Mon Sep 15 12:10:37 2008
From: hunber at bellsouth.net (Jim Ellis)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:10:37 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] SAOCA down
Message-ID: <344AF0B88E68470DA9D64BADF7E54D0E@HomePC>

http://sunbeamjim.proboards102.com/index.cgi

Here is a temp place we can go until the board is back up just a little
something for now

From alpine61 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 16 20:15:35 2008
From: alpine61 at comcast.net (Rob Wiseman)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 20:15:35 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
Message-ID: <006701c9186b$4ccab490$e6601db0$@net>

After finding some series II springs that were sprung, I have decided to
have some made.  

 

I have located a company that makes all kinds of springs.

 

Can anyone give me the specifics on the Series II springs, ie: length,
width, spring rate (I don't know what I need)

 

Or can someone give me the optimal spring for a V6 Alpine.

 

Thanks,

Rob

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 17 06:15:12 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 06:15:12 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <006701c9186b$4ccab490$e6601db0$@net>
References: <006701c9186b$4ccab490$e6601db0$@net>
Message-ID: <48D0F4D0.205@shaw.ca>

Rob:

Since you have already located your company, this might not be relevant. 
Also, note the date!


Ron Tebo

Subject: Re: Rear Leaf Springs (written to the Alpine list)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 23:39:11 EST
From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com
To: schristie at mail.usfli.com, alpines at autox.team.net, hillman at can-inc.com,
     tigers at autox.team.net, DalesResto at aol.com

Scott,
    Dale Akuszewski runs "Dale's All British" in San Bernardino, California.
Dale without question has the most forward-thinking Rootes Racing Shop in
the world.  Over the years, Dale has released kits that almost resolve the
Ackerman angle compromises Rootes built into every Tiger, rear disk brake
systems for Tiger (easily converted to Alpine), quick ratio Tiger steering
racks, two rates (race and street) state-of-the-art design rear leaf
springs, and so far he has equipped 16 Tigers with MY rebuilt Tiger 
steering columns.

    Dale is a Tiger Vintage racer with a focus, and considering how he and
other Dale-equipped cars are hammering the Corvettes and Shelby Mustangs,
wherever they race...he must be doing something right.  His updated parts
work because they are tested and improved in real racing...yes race fans,
Vintage Racing is every bit as competitive as "real" racing.

    Regarding your search for replacement leaf springs, I highly recommend
you choose Dale's street-Tiger springs for your Alpine.  As I wrote to you
before, his springs have the forward portion of the main leaf wrapped
completely around a small front eye-bush, resulting in much greater side
stability of the spring (no more scrubbing sidewalls).  Many Tiger owners
have eliminated their Panhard rods after installing Dale's leaf springs.
Dale can be reached at:  909-799-2099  Please tell him I sent you.

Jim Leach   Pacific Tiger Club  Seattle
    ...for steering column service, my number is 206-283-0510, or zap me for
some testimonials!
cc Dale


Rob Wiseman wrote:

>After finding some series II springs that were sprung, I have decided to
>have some made.  
>
> 
>
>I have located a company that makes all kinds of springs.
>
> 
>
>Can anyone give me the specifics on the Series II springs, ie: length,
>width, spring rate (I don't know what I need)
>
> 
>
>Or can someone give me the optimal spring for a V6 Alpine.
>
> 
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rob

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Wed Sep 17 06:50:29 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 08:50:29 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <48D0F4D0.205@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <E1KfwPu-0004uo-TM@elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Are Tiger leaf springs and Alpine SII leafs the same length .. ??

Allan 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ron Tebo
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 8:15 AM
To: Rob Wiseman
Cc: alpines
Subject: Re: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs

Rob:

Since you have already located your company, this might not be
relevant. 
Also, note the date!


Ron Tebo

Subject: Re: Rear Leaf Springs (written to the Alpine list)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 23:39:11 EST
From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com
To: schristie at mail.usfli.com, alpines at autox.team.net,
hillman at can-inc.com,
     tigers at autox.team.net, DalesResto at aol.com

Scott,
    Dale Akuszewski runs "Dale's All British" in San Bernardino,
California.
Dale without question has the most forward-thinking Rootes Racing Shop
in the world.  Over the years, Dale has released kits that almost
resolve the Ackerman angle compromises Rootes built into every Tiger,
rear disk brake systems for Tiger (easily converted to Alpine), quick
ratio Tiger steering racks, two rates (race and street)
state-of-the-art design rear leaf springs, and so far he has equipped
16 Tigers with MY rebuilt Tiger steering columns.

    Dale is a Tiger Vintage racer with a focus, and considering how he
and other Dale-equipped cars are hammering the Corvettes and Shelby
Mustangs, wherever they race...he must be doing something right.  His
updated parts work because they are tested and improved in real
racing...yes race fans, Vintage Racing is every bit as competitive as
"real" racing.

    Regarding your search for replacement leaf springs, I highly
recommend you choose Dale's street-Tiger springs for your Alpine.  As
I wrote to you before, his springs have the forward portion of the
main leaf wrapped completely around a small front eye-bush, resulting
in much greater side stability of the spring (no more scrubbing
sidewalls).  Many Tiger owners have eliminated their Panhard rods
after installing Dale's leaf springs.
Dale can be reached at:  909-799-2099  Please tell him I sent you.

Jim Leach   Pacific Tiger Club  Seattle
    ...for steering column service, my number is 206-283-0510, or zap
me for some testimonials!
cc Dale


Rob Wiseman wrote:

>After finding some series II springs that were sprung, I have decided

>to have some made.
>
> 
>
>I have located a company that makes all kinds of springs.
>
> 
>
>Can anyone give me the specifics on the Series II springs, ie:
length, 
>width, spring rate (I don't know what I need)
>
> 
>
>Or can someone give me the optimal spring for a V6 Alpine.
>
> 
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rob
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From prbreuhan at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 17 10:44:44 2008
From: prbreuhan at hotmail.com (Paul R. Breuhan)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 12:44:44 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Classic Car Insurance for my Sunbeam...
Message-ID: <BAY114-W33ACE8CD58875C751CF5CFAA4C0@phx.gbl>

Hi all,
I am looking at insurance for my Tiger...

Anyone have any experience with Grundy or Heacock?

www.grundy.com

www.heacockclassic.com

Thanks in advance,
Paul


_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/

From prbreuhan at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 17 12:13:13 2008
From: prbreuhan at hotmail.com (Paul R. Breuhan)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 14:13:13 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] [Tigers] Classic Car Insurance for my Sunbeam...
In-Reply-To: <007901c918e7$0bca5050$c200a8c0@T60>
References: <BAY114-W33ACE8CD58875C751CF5CFAA4C0@phx.gbl>
	<007901c918e7$0bca5050$c200a8c0@T60>
Message-ID: <BAY114-W26627FA23EBFC68158969DAA4C0@phx.gbl>

Yes I am in the U.S.

I am just exploring all my options. Hagerty is more expensive.

Paul
> From: JParent4 at tampabay.rr.com> To: prbreuhan at hotmail.com;
tigers at autox.team.net; alpines at autox.team.net> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Classic
Car Insurance for my Sunbeam...> Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 13:01:36 -0400> > In
the United States, I assume?> > You might check out Hagerty also.> >
www.hagerty.com> > Jim> > Subject: [Tigers] Classic Car Insurance for my
Sunbeam...> > Hi all,> I am looking at insurance for my Tiger...> > Anyone
have any experience with Grundy or Heacock?> > www.grundy.com> >
www.heacockclassic.com> > Thanks in advance,> Paul
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 17 16:00:19 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 16:00:19 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <E1KfwPu-0004uo-TM@elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <E1KfwPu-0004uo-TM@elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <48D17DF3.4020002@shaw.ca>

Allan:

I believe they were actually the same spring with an extra leaf added, 
but Tiger owners may know better! Here is something out of my archive 
that supports my belief.

Ron Tebo

Subject:
Re: [Alpines] [Tigers] Speaking of Panhard Bars...
From:
Marc James Small <marcsmall at comcast.net>
Date:
Sat, 05 Jul 2008 17:54:56 -0400
To:
drmayf at mayfco.com, "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>, 
Alpines <alpines at autox.team.net>

At 04:09 PM 7/5/2008, drmayf wrote:
 >Are there any other cars that use leaf springs like our cars and a
 >panhard bar? The use of a panhard bar in our case is just counter
 >intuitive to me. The leaf springs keep the rear end located and that
 >would seem to make the panhard bar redundant. Yeah, I know about wheel
 >hop, but a panhard bar or any other kind of lateral location linkage is
 >to keep the rear centered.  If I put coil overs on the rear of my car,
 >then, yeah, a locating bar would be needed, as well as some trailing
 >linkage for fore and aft movement.
 >
 >So why did they install it? Did the Alpine have one? .


The much more civilized Alpine did not need a
Panhard Rod to produce manueverability which, all
else being equal, routinely leaves Tigers in the
dust on any sort of decent back road.

The original Tigers were produced by mushing up
Alpine bodies and the only suspension
modifications were those necessary to fit that
ungainly Ford mill into a decently sized engine
compartment.  Hence, the rear suspension remained
the same -- a torn rotator cuff (damn!  there
goes my career pitching for the Atlanta Braves,
and I really WAS looking forward to a perfect
World Series game against the detestable Yankees
or the even more detestable Boston Dead Sox)
makes it hard for me to dig out my parts
manuals.  I suspect without checking these that
the Alpine IIIa/IV rear springs were identical to
those on the Alpine 260 if not for those on the Alpine V and Tiger II.

If you upgrade your rear springs to something
more in line with that unGodly amount of power
that barbaric engine provides, a Panhard Rod becomes unnecessary.

(The above is all written in good fun save for
the cmments about the Yankees and the Boston
Morons, and, yes, I grin as I write these
words.  You guys all live on the Left Coast and
therefore have no knowledge of REAL baseball.)

Marc



Allan Ballard wrote:

>Are Tiger leaf springs and Alpine SII leafs the same length .. ??

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Wed Sep 17 16:07:44 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 18:07:44 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <48D17DF3.4020002@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <E1Kg57B-0001vx-JM@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Ron,

Ithink the SII springs are 1/2 inch different in length based upon
this
>From SAOCA:
Allan
 
Rear Suspension

Series I

    * Length - 44
    * Width - 1.75
    * Debth - 1.547
    * Number of blades - 8

Series II

    * Length - 44
    * Width - 2.25
    * Debth - 1.172
    * Number of blades - 6

Series 3

    * Length - 43.5
    * Width - 2.25
    * Debth - 1.172
    * Number of blades - 6

Series IV

    * Length - 43.5
    * Width - 2.25
    * Debth - .984
    * Number of blades - 5

Series V

    * Length -
    * Width - 2.25
    * Debth -
    * Number of blades 
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Tebo [mailto:mrtebo at shaw.ca] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:00 PM
To: Allan Ballard
Cc: alpines
Subject: Re: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs

Allan:

I believe they were actually the same spring with an extra leaf added,
but Tiger owners may know better! Here is something out of my archive
that supports my belief.

Ron Tebo

Subject:
Re: [Alpines] [Tigers] Speaking of Panhard Bars...
From:
Marc James Small <marcsmall at comcast.net>
Date:
Sat, 05 Jul 2008 17:54:56 -0400
To:
drmayf at mayfco.com, "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>,
Alpines <alpines at autox.team.net>

At 04:09 PM 7/5/2008, drmayf wrote:
 >Are there any other cars that use leaf springs like our cars and a
>panhard bar? The use of a panhard bar in our case is just counter
>intuitive to me. The leaf springs keep the rear end located and that
>would seem to make the panhard bar redundant. Yeah, I know about
wheel  >hop, but a panhard bar or any other kind of lateral location
linkage is  >to keep the rear centered.  If I put coil overs on the
rear of my car,  >then, yeah, a locating bar would be needed, as well
as some trailing  >linkage for fore and aft movement.
 >
 >So why did they install it? Did the Alpine have one? .


The much more civilized Alpine did not need a Panhard Rod to produce
manueverability which, all else being equal, routinely leaves Tigers
in the dust on any sort of decent back road.

The original Tigers were produced by mushing up Alpine bodies and the
only suspension modifications were those necessary to fit that
ungainly Ford mill into a decently sized engine compartment.  Hence,
the rear suspension remained the same -- a torn rotator cuff (damn!
there goes my career pitching for the Atlanta Braves, and I really WAS
looking forward to a perfect World Series game against the detestable
Yankees or the even more detestable Boston Dead Sox) makes it hard for
me to dig out my parts manuals.  I suspect without checking these that
the Alpine IIIa/IV rear springs were identical to those on the Alpine
260 if not for those on the Alpine V and Tiger II.

If you upgrade your rear springs to something more in line with that
unGodly amount of power that barbaric engine provides, a Panhard Rod
becomes unnecessary.

(The above is all written in good fun save for the cmments about the
Yankees and the Boston Morons, and, yes, I grin as I write these
words.  You guys all live on the Left Coast and therefore have no
knowledge of REAL baseball.)

Marc



Allan Ballard wrote:

>Are Tiger leaf springs and Alpine SII leafs the same length .. ??

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 17 16:25:29 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 16:25:29 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <E1Kg57B-0001vx-JM@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <E1Kg57B-0001vx-JM@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <48D183D9.8050907@shaw.ca>

Allan;

Thanks for the info (and I know you meant "width"), and I will add it to 
my archive. I didn't know about the subtle differences in arch and the 
1/2 in.  difference in length on series III, IV, and V. Perhaps some 
Tiger owners can confirm or refute Marc's opinion.

Ron Tebo
Allan Ballard wrote:

>Ron,
>
>Ithink the SII springs are 1/2 inch different in length based upon
>this
>>From SAOCA:
>Allan
> 
>Rear Suspension
>
>Series I
>
>    * Length - 44
>    * Width - 1.75
>    * Debth - 1.547
>    * Number of blades - 8
>
>Series II
>
>    * Length - 44
>    * Width - 2.25
>    * Debth - 1.172
>    * Number of blades - 6
>
>Series 3
>
>    * Length - 43.5
>    * Width - 2.25
>    * Debth - 1.172
>    * Number of blades - 6
>
>Series IV
>
>    * Length - 43.5
>    * Width - 2.25
>    * Debth - .984
>    * Number of blades - 5
>
>Series V
>
>    * Length -
>    * Width - 2.25
>    * Debth -
>    * Number of blades 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron Tebo [mailto:mrtebo at shaw.ca] 
>Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:00 PM
>To: Allan Ballard
>Cc: alpines
>Subject: Re: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
>
>Allan:
>
>I believe they were actually the same spring with an extra leaf added,
>but Tiger owners may know better! Here is something out of my archive
>that supports my belief.
>
>Ron Tebo
>
>Subject:
>Re: [Alpines] [Tigers] Speaking of Panhard Bars...
>From:
>Marc James Small <marcsmall at comcast.net>
>Date:
>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 17:54:56 -0400
>To:
>drmayf at mayfco.com, "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>,
>Alpines <alpines at autox.team.net>
>
>At 04:09 PM 7/5/2008, drmayf wrote:
> >Are there any other cars that use leaf springs like our cars and a
>  
>
>>panhard bar? The use of a panhard bar in our case is just counter
>>intuitive to me. The leaf springs keep the rear end located and that
>>would seem to make the panhard bar redundant. Yeah, I know about
>>    
>>
>wheel  >hop, but a panhard bar or any other kind of lateral location
>linkage is  >to keep the rear centered.  If I put coil overs on the
>rear of my car,  >then, yeah, a locating bar would be needed, as well
>as some trailing  >linkage for fore and aft movement.
> >
> >So why did they install it? Did the Alpine have one? .
>
>
>The much more civilized Alpine did not need a Panhard Rod to produce
>manueverability which, all else being equal, routinely leaves Tigers
>in the dust on any sort of decent back road.
>
>The original Tigers were produced by mushing up Alpine bodies and the
>only suspension modifications were those necessary to fit that
>ungainly Ford mill into a decently sized engine compartment.  Hence,
>the rear suspension remained the same -- a torn rotator cuff (damn!
>there goes my career pitching for the Atlanta Braves, and I really WAS
>looking forward to a perfect World Series game against the detestable
>Yankees or the even more detestable Boston Dead Sox) makes it hard for
>me to dig out my parts manuals.  I suspect without checking these that
>the Alpine IIIa/IV rear springs were identical to those on the Alpine
>260 if not for those on the Alpine V and Tiger II.
>
>If you upgrade your rear springs to something more in line with that
>unGodly amount of power that barbaric engine provides, a Panhard Rod
>becomes unnecessary.
>
>(The above is all written in good fun save for the cmments about the
>Yankees and the Boston Morons, and, yes, I grin as I write these
>words.  You guys all live on the Left Coast and therefore have no
>knowledge of REAL baseball.)
>
>Marc
>
>
>
>Allan Ballard wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Are Tiger leaf springs and Alpine SII leafs the same length .. ??

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Thu Sep 18 05:35:11 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 05:35:11 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <001501c9193f$35128510$9f378f30$@net>
References: <E1Kg57B-0001vx-JM@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<48D183D9.8050907@shaw.ca> <001501c9193f$35128510$9f378f30$@net>
Message-ID: <48D23CEF.7020800@shaw.ca>

Rob:

I think that is the measurement of the arch in the spring. Here is a
post that verifes this,  but perhaps you should contact Jim Leach at
Pacific Tiger to determine exactly how that is measured (or your spring
supplier).

Ron Tebo

Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 13:58:59 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: "jarrid_gross at earthlink.net" <jarrid_gross at earthlink.net>
To: Chuck Nicodemus <armorseal at spiretech.com>,
   Steve Laifman
  <SLaifman at socal.rr.com>, Jay_Laifman at countrywide.com,
   "Tiger's Den"
  <tigers at autox.team.net>,
   "'Alpine's Peak'" <alpines at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: How Old?


Reply-To: "jarrid_gross at earthlink.net" <jarrid_gross at earthlink.net>


Chuck,

Perhaps your springs are worn, but that shouldnt make the wheels rub on
them.
Also make sure the 1.75 inch spec relates to your vehicle.

Series 1 and 2s springs are almost dead flat when the vehicle is loaded.
This puts the suspension in the "best" possible position to prevent the
arch of
the springs from affecting the rear track due to lateral loads.


-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Nicodemus <armorseal at spiretech.com>
Sent: May 5, 2004 1:30 PM
To: jarrid_gross at earthlink.net, Steve Laifman <SLaifman at socal.rr.com>,
    Jay_Laifman at countrywide.com, Tiger's Den <tigers at autox.team.net>,
    'Alpine's Peak' <alpines at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: How Old?

Darn it ! I just looked at the springs, unladen they are almost in the less
than flat position. If I put weight on them they are reverse bow. In reading
my book it says that I need at least 1.75 inches bow on the center line.
Looks like I'd best remove them and take them to the spring store for
re-bend..
Thanks for your input. Whilst doing that I may as well replace the bushings.
Cheers, anyone want to help out on this small project?/
Chuck

Rob Wiseman wrote:

>Ron, 
>Thanks that is exactly what I was looking for.
>
>When you day depth, what exactly is that measurement?
>
>Rob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: alpines-bounces+alpine61=comcast.net at autox.team.net
>[mailto:alpines-bounces+alpine61=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>Ron Tebo
>Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 4:25 PM
>To: Allan Ballard
>Cc: alpines
>Subject: Re: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
>
>Allan;
>
>Thanks for the info (and I know you meant "width"), and I will add it to 
>my archive. I didn't know about the subtle differences in arch and the 
>1/2 in.  difference in length on series III, IV, and V. Perhaps some 
>Tiger owners can confirm or refute Marc's opinion.
>
>Ron Tebo
>Allan Ballard wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Ron,
>>
>>Ithink the SII springs are 1/2 inch different in length based upon
>>this
>>>From SAOCA:
>>Allan
>>
>>Rear Suspension
>>
>>Series I
>>
>>   * Length - 44
>>   * Width - 1.75
>>   * Debth - 1.547
>>   * Number of blades - 8
>>
>>Series II
>>
>>   * Length - 44
>>   * Width - 2.25
>>   * Debth - 1.172
>>   * Number of blades - 6
>>
>>Series 3
>>
>>   * Length - 43.5
>>   * Width - 2.25
>>   * Debth - 1.172
>>   * Number of blades - 6
>>
>>Series IV
>>
>>   * Length - 43.5
>>   * Width - 2.25
>>   * Debth - .984
>>   * Number of blades - 5
>>
>>Series V
>>
>>   * Length -
>>   * Width - 2.25
>>   * Debth -
>>   * Number of blades 
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Ron Tebo [mailto:mrtebo at shaw.ca] 
>>Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:00 PM
>>To: Allan Ballard
>>Cc: alpines
>>Subject: Re: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
>>
>>Allan:

From lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi  Fri Sep 19 00:34:59 2008
From: lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi (=?us-ascii?Q?=3Fauri_Lehtinen?=)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 09:34:59 +0300
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine  Rear Springs & Bushes
In-Reply-To: <48D23CEF.7020800@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCKECECNAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>

Dear fellows,
as you discussed about rear springs I did remember that my rear spring
bushes are at least 25 years old - maybe even the original ones!
Modern bushes are made of polyurethane (not PU foam, hah-haa!) and I have
heard that they are guite easily produced by turning in an usual lathe. Is
that something like a fairytale?

Another thing is I bought an overdrive box from ebay. Now I need a shorter
propeller shaft, was it so that a standard MGB shaft fits straight in place?

BTW, now I understand why my engine was so civilized when idling and
slow-reving. There was a 8.5" clutch with a huge flywheel, maybe from a
Commer Cob / Hillman Husky or even from a Commer truck??

Your eastern echo

Lauri, Helsinki

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Fri Sep 19 05:35:26 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 05:35:26 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine  Rear Springs & Bushes
In-Reply-To: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCKECECNAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
References: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCKECECNAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
Message-ID: <48D38E7E.6060302@shaw.ca>

Lauri:

Re: the drive shaft;
What most do is take your standard shaft, with the splined yoke end you 
should have gotten with your transmission, to a drive-line specialist, 
and have it rebuilt, cut down. and balanced, with the new splined yoke 
installed. This should cost less than $150 US and leaves you with the 
equivalent of a new drive shaft, rather than a second-hand MG shaft that 
may need rebuilding anyway. Here are the actual measurements from Jan 
Servaites:


"Ron, I just measured 2 OD shafts and I measure 29.5" from center of yoke
to the opposite yoke center. As a reference check, a non-OD measures
32.25"
Jan Servaites"

I will check my archive later for info on the bushings, if you don't get 
an adequate reply.

Ron Tebo

?auri Lehtinen wrote:

>Dear fellows,
>as you discussed about rear springs I did remember that my rear spring
>bushes are at least 25 years old - maybe even the original ones!
>Modern bushes are made of polyurethane (not PU foam, hah-haa!) and I have
>heard that they are guite easily produced by turning in an usual lathe. Is
>that something like a fairytale?
>
>Another thing is I bought an overdrive box from ebay. Now I need a shorter
>propeller shaft, was it so that a standard MGB shaft fits straight in place?
>
>BTW, now I understand why my engine was so civilized when idling and
>slow-reving. There was a 8.5" clutch with a huge flywheel, maybe from a
>Commer Cob / Hillman Husky or even from a Commer truck??
>
>Your eastern echo
>
>Lauri, Helsinki

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Fri Sep 19 05:47:18 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 05:47:18 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Series II Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <bc7.30d0e1e8.3603d43a@aol.com>
References: <bc7.30d0e1e8.3603d43a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48D39146.4090703@shaw.ca>

Jim:

Thanks for the information and I will add to the archive. Does this mean 
that a Series I wouldn't be eligible for the performance springs you 
mentioned a few years ago, and, are those still available?

Ron Tebo

TIGEROOTES at aol.com wrote:

> Ron,
>        The spring perches are located in exactly the same location all 
> Alpines and Tigers, so it must be a change in the arch, just as you 
> said.  Series 1 Alpine differs in the width of the springs, exactly 
> the same as Husky 1 VS Husky 2 and 3 which have wide springs.
>
>        A few years back I saw a Tiger from California that used 
> specially made skinny rear leaf springs that allowed 8" wide wheels to 
> fit inside stock fenderwells.  A clever modification!
> Jim

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Fri Sep 19 09:13:00 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 11:13:00 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine  Rear Springs & Bushes
In-Reply-To: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCKECECNAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>
Message-ID: <E1Kghat-0001tI-PN@elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

 While we are talking about Alpine leaf springs...a question .. ??

I am in the process of prepping a pair of leaf springs I took off
A SV parts car for use on my S IV.

Nothing remarkable about the springs to comment upon, except that one
Side has the leafs in the Long/shorter/shorter..../shortest order, and
The other does not.

The other spring has long, shorter, longer, shorter/shorter/shorter
order, they don't
Stack from longest to shortest the same way.

Does that make any difference .. ??

Any opinion on whether one spring was done differently at the Factory,
or is that
Most likely some weird thing a prior owner did?

Thanks!

Allan

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 20 05:45:27 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 05:45:27 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine  Rear Springs & Bushes
In-Reply-To: <E1Kghat-0001tI-PN@elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <E1Kghat-0001tI-PN@elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <48D4E257.8080405@shaw.ca>

Allan:

I would guess that the spring you describe has been mis-asembled by some 
previous owner, and this would have an effect on both arch and rebound 
rate. If you are having them re-arched as part of your prep, I think 
your spring pro wil correct this.

Ron Tebo


Allan Ballard wrote:

> While we are talking about Alpine leaf springs...a question .. ??
>
>I am in the process of prepping a pair of leaf springs I took off
>A SV parts car for use on my S IV.
>
>Nothing remarkable about the springs to comment upon, except that one
>Side has the leafs in the Long/shorter/shorter..../shortest order, and
>The other does not.
>
>The other spring has long, shorter, longer, shorter/shorter/shorter
>order, they don't
>Stack from longest to shortest the same way.
>
>Does that make any difference .. ??
>
>Any opinion on whether one spring was done differently at the Factory,
>or is that
>Most likely some weird thing a prior owner did?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Allan

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Sat Sep 20 06:30:22 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 08:30:22 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine  Rear Springs & Bushes
In-Reply-To: <48D4E257.8080405@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <E1Kh1X1-0005Go-Ee@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Ron,

I had planned to install new bushings, clean and paint, but not to
re-arch the leaves.

So far as I know they are fine, just a bit rusty from being outdoors
on a parts car for
~ 20 years. 

I've never dis-assembled and re-ordered leaf springs, but if the
brackets are not too hard to remove and
Reinstall...

Allan

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Tebo [mailto:mrtebo at shaw.ca] 
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 7:45 AM
To: Allan Ballard
Cc: alpines
Subject: Re: [Alpines] Sunbeam Alpine Rear Springs & Bushes

Allan:

I would guess that the spring you describe has been mis-asembled by
some previous owner, and this would have an effect on both arch and
rebound rate. If you are having them re-arched as part of your prep, I
think your spring pro wil correct this.

Ron Tebo


Allan Ballard wrote:

> While we are talking about Alpine leaf springs...a question .. ??
>
>I am in the process of prepping a pair of leaf springs I took off A
SV 
>parts car for use on my S IV.
>
>Nothing remarkable about the springs to comment upon, except that one

>Side has the leafs in the Long/shorter/shorter..../shortest order,
and 
>The other does not.
>
>The other spring has long, shorter, longer, shorter/shorter/shorter 
>order, they don't Stack from longest to shortest the same way.
>
>Does that make any difference .. ??
>
>Any opinion on whether one spring was done differently at the
Factory, 
>or is that Most likely some weird thing a prior owner did?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Allan

From bmounce at rcn.com  Sun Sep 21 12:57:33 2008
From: bmounce at rcn.com (Bill Mounce)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:57:33 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] seat belt question
Message-ID: <00e501c91c1b$e8050e70$b80f2b50$@com>

Hello all

 

I have a late 1967 SV, without seatbelts.  This strikes me odd, as I think
that was the first year lap belts were mandatory.  At any rate, I am looking
to add them (lap only).  Any guidance as to where the holes in the floor go
and/or shouldn't go?  No evidence of factory holes exist.

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Bill Mounce

1967 SV aka 'The Paperweight'

From bhayes at cs.stanford.edu  Sun Sep 21 14:41:53 2008
From: bhayes at cs.stanford.edu (Barry Hayes)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 13:41:53 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] seat belt question
In-Reply-To: <00e501c91c1b$e8050e70$b80f2b50$@com>
References: <00e501c91c1b$e8050e70$b80f2b50$@com>
Message-ID: <d0facb1d0809211341l6df6e9e8wf81cc6e31b82c700@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 67 V that looks as if it has factory belts. Attached are some
pictures -- my passenger seat is out, so my dog has a better ride ..

Note that these are re-enforced points, so random drilling and tapping
probably won't do ..

But when I went to put in aftermarket sholder belts, the third points
were there, too.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1206.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1203.jpg]

From mototron at optonline.net  Sun Sep 21 19:26:01 2008
From: mototron at optonline.net (Moto)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:26:01 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Head gasket
Message-ID: <48D6F429.2060102@optonline.net>

Hello
    I am vintage racing a series II alpine
with a bored and stroked 1725 engine
it has 12.5/1 compression
with 7/16s  head studs
I keep on blowing head gaskets  in to the watre jackets
I am using a custom made copper head gasket  by cometic
the motor is 0 decked and the head is straight

Any suggestions on head gaskets or different sealers to use
I was thinking of O ringing the block next
I only  got 2  races at NJ  this weekend before it started  Leak
into cylinder 2

Thanks
  Rocco

From awtiger at cox.net  Sun Sep 21 20:55:08 2008
From: awtiger at cox.net (Andy Walker)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:55:08 -0500
Subject: [Alpines] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <48D6F429.2060102@optonline.net>
References: <48D6F429.2060102@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <F3134059E96B4CA08CC80D503F0350FE@awtigerPC>

Rocco:

You didn't say in your e-mail whether or not you did the water jacket 
pass-through modification on your head gasket.  I'm assuming that you didn't 
and, running that kind of compression, I'm not surprised at all that you're 
blowing head gaskets.  I"m assuming you're blowing the compression ring out 
between the water jackets, right?  Due to the design of the head and the 
gasket in that area, the head gasket is inherently weak there and, under 
racing stresses, will fail with alarming regularity.

First of all, there's no need to o-ring the block.  That's expensive and 
probably won't solve your problem.  As far as sealers go, a good dose of 
CopperCoat is about as good as you can get.  Assuming you're using that, 
then you're in good shape there.

Now, for the fix.  There's two ways to go about getting this to quit 
happening.  First, contact Mr. Dunst at Gasket Works USA, LLC 
http://www.headgasket.com/ .  He has the proper template and can make you a 
solid copper gasket in the thickness of your choice with water passage 
"holes" that match the water jacket holes in the block instead of the long 
curved opening that the stock gasket has to match the head.  Just doing this 
alone will give the gasket the strength it needs to stand up to the big 
compression number you're running.  The way the head is made will still 
allow the water to circulate above the gasket between the water jacket holes 
in the head.  Okay...that's fix #1.

Fix #2, if you want to go all the way with it, is to have that recessed area 
between the water jackets in the head welded up and machined flat.  This 
will give maximum strength to the new copper head gasket in the water jacket 
area.  Almost every serious Sunbeam racer has done either one or both of 
these modifications.  Personally, I put the copper head gasket on my car but 
did not do the head modification.  I was going to but my head has already 
been shaved to the point of no return.  However, you can bet that the next 
head I build will have that modification done to it right off the bat.

If you contact Mr. Dunst at Gasket Works, just tell him that Andy Walker 
with the Sunbeam in Edmond, OK sent you and tell him what you need.  I'm 
sure he'll fix you right up.  You may contact me anytime if you need further 
info or help.

Thanks and good luck,
Andy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Moto" <mototron at optonline.net>
To: "alpines" <alpines at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 8:26 PM
Subject: [Alpines] Head gasket


> Hello
>    I am vintage racing a series II alpine
> with a bored and stroked 1725 engine
> it has 12.5/1 compression
> with 7/16s  head studs
> I keep on blowing head gaskets  in to the watre jackets
> I am using a custom made copper head gasket  by cometic
> the motor is 0 decked and the head is straight
>
> Any suggestions on head gaskets or different sealers to use
> I was thinking of O ringing the block next
> I only  got 2  races at NJ  this weekend before it started  Leak
> into cylinder 2
>
> Thanks
>  Rocco
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Alpines at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From armorseal at spiretech.com  Sun Sep 21 20:55:51 2008
From: armorseal at spiretech.com (Chuck Nicodemus)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 19:55:51 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] vibration dampner
Message-ID: <6583DE72B7B046BEABE97208C78D4D91@chuckvnootxuli>

Looking for a vibration damper for a 1725.
anyone?
chuck


"Devote your life to what you want to be, not what you are"
Marty Robbins 1965

From mrtebo at shaw.ca  Mon Sep 22 06:48:08 2008
From: mrtebo at shaw.ca (Ron Tebo)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 06:48:08 -0600
Subject: [Alpines] seat belt question
In-Reply-To: <d0facb1d0809211341l6df6e9e8wf81cc6e31b82c700@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00e501c91c1b$e8050e70$b80f2b50$@com>
	<d0facb1d0809211341l6df6e9e8wf81cc6e31b82c700@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48D79408.9050103@shaw.ca>

Barry:

Could you send the pictures to me direct? I have a Series I and have lap 
belts, but am interested in where the third point attaches if I got 3 
-point belts. (as you now know, this list automatically removes 
attachements).

Thanks

Ron Tebo

Barry Hayes wrote:

>I have a 67 V that looks as if it has factory belts. Attached are some
>pictures -- my passenger seat is out, so my dog has a better ride ..
>
>Note that these are re-enforced points, so random drilling and tapping
>probably won't do ..
>
>But when I went to put in aftermarket sholder belts, the third points
>were there, too.
>
>[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1206.jpg]
>
>[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1203.jpg]
>_______________________________________________

From bhayes at cs.stanford.edu  Mon Sep 22 10:22:19 2008
From: bhayes at cs.stanford.edu (Barry Hayes)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 09:22:19 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] seat belt question
In-Reply-To: <48D79408.9050103@shaw.ca>
References: <00e501c91c1b$e8050e70$b80f2b50$@com>
	<d0facb1d0809211341l6df6e9e8wf81cc6e31b82c700@mail.gmail.com>
	<48D79408.9050103@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <d0facb1d0809220922j79fe89dy17cc8acc451947ae@mail.gmail.com>

I didn't take a picture of the 3rd point, but I'll try to get to that soon.

From bmounce at rcn.com  Wed Sep 24 12:09:00 2008
From: bmounce at rcn.com (Bill Mounce)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:09:00 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
Message-ID: <000301c91e70$9feab7a0$dfc026e0$@com>

Hello all

 

I had a phone call from a fellow in Belmar NJ who runs a small auto repair
shop.  He has been struggling with a Series IV automatic, and cannot get it
to run.  He has pouring time and parts into it, no luck.  He has added a
Weber carb, a rebuilt distributor, various other goodies, no luck.  He feels
he has not changed the timing, although with distributor changes, he
certainly could have.  He says it is set up negative earth, but I recall
them being positive.  He is getting spark.

 

He did have it going a while ago when he had a different mechanic working
with him, but not now. 

 

Anyone have any thoughts?  I do not know the gentleman, and have no vested
interest, just trying to help him out.  I would drive down, but it's a bit
far from where I live.

 

His name is Ed Mateski, his brother Ken works with him.  Email is
scsnake56 at aol.com, business is Atlantic Automotive in Belmar, NJ, phone
732-681-0085.  Two blocks from the ocean, if there are any Alpine
mechanics/fishermen out there!!

 

Thanks, 

 

Bill Mounce

From carlynneracing at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 24 13:26:45 2008
From: carlynneracing at sbcglobal.net (Carl McLelland)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 12:26:45 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
References: <000301c91e70$9feab7a0$dfc026e0$@com>
Message-ID: <424D1077B34546B78069C2F5CC40B774@owner33025ef87>

That description below opens an awful big door of potential problems. Here's
what jumps out at me since you say he changed the distributor. Also, I've not
worked on Alpines in about 5 years now, but......

If he changed the distributor, have him remove the new one and count the teeth
on the distributor drive gear, and make certain it has the same number of
teeth as on the distributor he removed. Remember that Alpines could either
have an eleven tooth or a twelve tooth drive gear, and they will interchange.
(Yes, I made that error myself once).

Other than that, there's only 3 things that can fail: mechanical, electrical
or fuel. Go through each 'system' thoroughly and completely. As soon as you
reach a 'step' in the analysis that you want to skip because you know that
step is OK, check it anyway because that's where you'll find the fault.
    Carl    Lotus 61 FF,
              (formerly) series 1 Alpine



----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Mounce
  To: Alpine Discussion Group
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:09 AM
  Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic


  Hello all



  I had a phone call from a fellow in Belmar NJ who runs a small auto repair
  shop.  He has been struggling with a Series IV automatic, and cannot get it
  to run.  He has pouring time and parts into it, no luck.  He has added a
  Weber carb, a rebuilt distributor, various other goodies, no luck.  He
feels
  he has not changed the timing, although with distributor changes, he
  certainly could have.  He says it is set up negative earth, but I recall
  them being positive.  He is getting spark.



  He did have it going a while ago when he had a different mechanic working
  with him, but not now.



  Anyone have any thoughts?  I do not know the gentleman, and have no vested
  interest, just trying to help him out.  I would drive down, but it's a bit
  far from where I live.



  His name is Ed Mateski, his brother Ken works with him.  Email is
  scsnake56 at aol.com, business is Atlantic Automotive in Belmar, NJ, phone
  732-681-0085.  Two blocks from the ocean, if there are any Alpine
  mechanics/fishermen out there!!



  Thanks,



  Bill Mounce
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Alpines at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

  http://www.team.net/archive

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Wed Sep 24 15:24:08 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 17:24:08 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
In-Reply-To: <424D1077B34546B78069C2F5CC40B774@owner33025ef87>
Message-ID: <E1Kiblh-0006ix-Hg@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

If he is unsure on timing (he "feels" ...) have him check the pully
mark at TDC, and whether the rotor button is pointing at #1.

Then do the spark to the plugs test, then fuel to the carb, etc.

Allan 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Carl McLelland
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 3:27 PM
To: Bill Mounce; Alpine Discussion Group
Cc: scsnake56 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic

That description below opens an awful big door of potential problems.
Here's what jumps out at me since you say he changed the distributor.
Also, I've not worked on Alpines in about 5 years now, but......

If he changed the distributor, have him remove the new one and count
the teeth on the distributor drive gear, and make certain it has the
same number of teeth as on the distributor he removed. Remember that
Alpines could either have an eleven tooth or a twelve tooth drive
gear, and they will interchange.
(Yes, I made that error myself once).

Other than that, there's only 3 things that can fail: mechanical,
electrical or fuel. Go through each 'system' thoroughly and
completely. As soon as you reach a 'step' in the analysis that you
want to skip because you know that step is OK, check it anyway because
that's where you'll find the fault.
    Carl    Lotus 61 FF,
              (formerly) series 1 Alpine



----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Mounce
  To: Alpine Discussion Group
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:09 AM
  Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic


  Hello all



  I had a phone call from a fellow in Belmar NJ who runs a small auto
repair
  shop.  He has been struggling with a Series IV automatic, and cannot
get it
  to run.  He has pouring time and parts into it, no luck.  He has
added a
  Weber carb, a rebuilt distributor, various other goodies, no luck.
He feels
  he has not changed the timing, although with distributor changes, he
  certainly could have.  He says it is set up negative earth, but I
recall
  them being positive.  He is getting spark.



  He did have it going a while ago when he had a different mechanic
working
  with him, but not now.



  Anyone have any thoughts?  I do not know the gentleman, and have no
vested
  interest, just trying to help him out.  I would drive down, but it's
a bit
  far from where I live.



  His name is Ed Mateski, his brother Ken works with him.  Email is
  scsnake56 at aol.com, business is Atlantic Automotive in Belmar, NJ,
phone
  732-681-0085.  Two blocks from the ocean, if there are any Alpine
  mechanics/fishermen out there!!



  Thanks,



  Bill Mounce
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Alpines at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

  http://www.team.net/archive
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi  Wed Sep 24 22:21:58 2008
From: lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi (Lauri Lehtinen)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 07:21:58 +0300
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
In-Reply-To: <E1Kiblh-0006ix-Hg@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <JIEOLIEKDNMMAOMIAGMLMEABDLAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>

My distributor was this summer 360 deg. wrong.
Totally humoristic effects.

Lauri Lehtinen
journalist, engineer
Helsinki, Finland
Mobile: +358 400 851988 

From lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi  Thu Sep 25 08:15:48 2008
From: lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi (=?us-ascii?Q?=3Fauri_Lehtinen?=)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 17:15:48 +0300
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
In-Reply-To: <BC9AFCE99A1EB24DBFCD6FDA79DB61B134F961@NE-EXCH.ne.anl.gov>
Message-ID: <JIEHJNICEKJKBLBKANPCEEEICNAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>

Once again, once again:
>
>
>
> As 360 deg is a complete circle, that should have been normal!
> Pete Chadbund.
>
> Sorry, 360 at crank, 180 at distributor. The engine did fire either in
> intake or in exthaust manifold, depending on setting.
>
> Larry

-

From TIGEROOTES at aol.com  Thu Sep 25 09:08:01 2008
From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com (TIGEROOTES at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 11:08:01 EDT
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
Message-ID: <c99.3502a0fd.360d0351@aol.com>

Billl,
       Re another reply to you, there is no gear on the distributor, its on 
the oil pump.  Originally the car was positive ground and since it has spark, 
my guess is its a fuel delivery problem likely caused by a blocked fuel line 
(the typical paint peeling off the inside of the tanks problem).
Jim Leach    Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle


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From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Thu Sep 25 11:55:12 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 13:55:12 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
In-Reply-To: <c99.3502a0fd.360d0351@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1Kiuz0-0008DT-9m@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Remove the carb's cover, spin the engine, look and see if fuel is
present.

Allan 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TIGEROOTES at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 11:08 AM
To: bmounce at rcn.com; alpines at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic

Billl,
       Re another reply to you, there is no gear on the distributor,
its on the oil pump.  Originally the car was positive ground and since
it has spark, my guess is its a fuel delivery problem likely caused by
a blocked fuel line (the typical paint peeling off the inside of the
tanks problem).
Jim Leach    Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle


**************
Looking for simple
solutions to your real-life financial challenges?  Check out WalletPop
for the latest news and information, tips and calculators.
      
(http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi  Thu Sep 25 23:51:09 2008
From: lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi (Lauri Lehtinen)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:51:09 +0300
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
In-Reply-To: <E1Kiuz0-0008DT-9m@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <JIEOLIEKDNMMAOMIAGMLIEANDLAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>

And you can pour or inject a spoonful of fuel straight to intake. Then it
should run for few seconds.

Lauri Lehtinen
journalist, engineer
Helsinki, Finland
Mobile: +358 400 851988


ta Allan Ballard
Lahetetty: 25. syyskuuta 2008 20:55
Vastaanottaja: TIGEROOTES at aol.com; bmounce at rcn.com;
alpines at autox.team.net
Aihe: Re: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic


Remove the carb's cover, spin the engine, look and see if fuel is
present.

Allan

From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Fri Sep 26 18:21:36 2008
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 20:21:36 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic
Message-ID: <E1KjNUU-0003v3-Mk@elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

 Also I'd add a suggestion that, if no fuel in the carb(s), then
unhook the fuel system one part at a time and test for fuel at that
point with the engine spinning, until the problem is detected.

That would be first the fuel line between the carb(s) and the fuel
pump, then the pump, then the line to the fuel tanks.

If fuel is blocked, the engine could be briefly tested with starter
fluid, as Lauri suggested.

-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Ballard [mailto:aballard at ix.netcom.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 1:55 PM
To: 'TIGEROOTES at aol.com'; 'bmounce at rcn.com'; 'alpines at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic

Remove the carb's cover, spin the engine, look and see if fuel is
present.

Allan 

-----Original Message-----
From: alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:alpines-bounces+aballard=ix.netcom.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TIGEROOTES at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 11:08 AM
To: bmounce at rcn.com; alpines at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Alpines] Need help with Series IV automatic

Billl,
       Re another reply to you, there is no gear on the distributor,
its on the oil pump.  Originally the car was positive ground and since
it has spark, my guess is its a fuel delivery problem likely caused by
a blocked fuel line (the typical paint peeling off the inside of the
tanks problem).
Jim Leach    Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle


**************
Looking for simple
solutions to your real-life financial challenges?  Check out WalletPop
for the latest news and information, tips and calculators.
      
(http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive