[Alpines] Aluminum Flywheel question

[jarrid_gross at earthlink.net]

Dan,

Flywheels can get much higher temp than you are thinking.

Also, any threads in the aluminum would have to be heli-coiled since
aluminum would last too long at the torque values that steel fasteners would require.

Most mfgrs today use special rivets to attach the wear plate to the flywheel, not bolts/nuts.

I would elliminate the lock nuts, and have a PEM type fastener pressed in from the back.

This looks kind of like a "T" and has threads that go through it, and act like a nut in that
they contain the threads for the bolt, and wont pull through the flywheel.  They are also much 
lower profile than a nut.


Best of luck.


Jarrid Gross


>I have an aluminum flywheel that was custom made for one of my Brit cars and 
>it has a removeable wear surface. The company that made the flywheel used 
>the correct type bolts to secure the wear surface the the flywheel but they 
>used long bolts that pass all the way through the flywheel and then they 
>used lock-nuts on the backside of the flywheel to secure everything. Problem 
>is there isn't enough room on the backside for the long bolts and the nuts. 
>The bolts touch the housing on the rear seal and keep the flywheel from 
>bolting down correctly, much less mention any rotational issues. I was 
>thinking of just getting new bolts that are the correct length and just use 
>a tap to thread the holes in the aluminum flywheel so I can screw the bolts 
>directly into the aluminum to hold the removeable wear surface. I'm 
>wondering if there will be any issues with the steel bolts screwing into the 
>aluminum? My guess is that a flywheel doesn't see much more than maybe 150 
>degrees F in temperature and if I use some locktite to install the bolts 
>maybe this will work. Anyone know more about this who could let me know if 
>they think this will work. The flywheel looks like one from Fidanza, but it 
>was made locally. Any input is welcome.
>
>TIA
>Dan Eiland