From bmounce at rcn.com  Tue Jun  3 06:30:44 2008
From: bmounce at rcn.com (Bill Mounce)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 08:30:44 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] window regulator and wiper questions
Message-ID: <78393D687D314FEE8841EC37942F2B5A@HOVAC>

Hello all

 

The Paperweight project is moving forward, dash installation is proving to
be, uh, challenging.  I never realized how large my hands were until I went
to assemble the heater controls with the dash in situ!   Luckily I checked
my wipers and they were not working, so with everything disassembled
replacing the wipers was no problem.  That leads to my first question, is
there any value in a wiper assembly that does not work?  Can is be rebuilt
or is it junk?  Further, does anyone want it?

 

Next, my driver's side window regulator works, but when I get it cranked all
the way up (glass currently removed), the handle keeps going.  In order to
roll it down, I need to push down on it to engage the teeth, and then it
rolls down just fine.  Is my regulator shot, or am I merely missing a piece
that limits its travel?

 

Thank you, 

 

Bill

From jan.eyerman at usa.net  Tue Jun  3 08:25:52 2008
From: jan.eyerman at usa.net (Jan Eyerman)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 10:25:52 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] window regulator and wiper questions
Message-ID: <073mFcoy15522S10.1212503152@cmsweb10.cms.usa.net>

Bill,

My advice is to keep ALL parts because someday you will need a cover plate or
brush holder or some such small part which you find is made from that rare
material that all Sunbeams are made of... "unobtainium".

Jan Eyerman


------ Original Message ------
Received: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 08:31:08 AM EDT
From: "Bill Mounce" <bmounce at rcn.com>
To: "'Alpine Discussion List'" <alpines at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Alpines] window regulator and wiper questions

Hello all



The Paperweight project is moving forward, dash installation is proving to
be, uh, challenging.  I never realized how large my hands were until I went
to assemble the heater controls with the dash in situ!   Luckily I checked
my wipers and they were not working, so with everything disassembled
replacing the wipers was no problem.  That leads to my first question, is
there any value in a wiper assembly that does not work?  Can is be rebuilt
or is it junk?  Further, does anyone want it?



Next, my driver's side window regulator works, but when I get it cranked all
the way up (glass currently removed), the handle keeps going.  In order to
roll it down, I need to push down on it to engage the teeth, and then it
rolls down just fine.  Is my regulator shot, or am I merely missing a piece
that limits its travel?



Thank you,



Bill
Alpines at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/alpines

http://www.team.net/archive

From prbreuhan at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  3 08:34:21 2008
From: prbreuhan at hotmail.com (Paul R. Breuhan)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 10:34:21 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] window regulator and wiper questions
In-Reply-To: <78393D687D314FEE8841EC37942F2B5A@HOVAC>
References: <78393D687D314FEE8841EC37942F2B5A@HOVAC>
Message-ID: <BAY114-W45F0318F4FB865D2C213B1AABA0@phx.gbl>

Bill,
Keep the wiper assembly, you never know what parts you might need.

The window glass sits in a channel and there should be a stop (a little
aluminum rectangle) on both ends that screws in to prevent too much movement
up or down. You need them out to completely remove or install the glass.

Paul
> From: bmounce at rcn.com> To: alpines at autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008
08:30:44 -0400> Subject: [Alpines] window regulator and wiper questions> >
Hello all> The Paperweight project is moving forward, dash installation is
proving to> be, uh, challenging. I never realized how large my hands were
until I went> to assemble the heater controls with the dash in situ! Luckily I
checked> my wipers and they were not working, so with everything disassembled>
replacing the wipers was no problem. That leads to my first question, is>
there any value in a wiper assembly that does not work? Can is be rebuilt> or
is it junk? Further, does anyone want it?
> Next, my driver's side window regulator works, but when I get it cranked
all> the way up (glass currently removed), the handle keeps going. In order
to> roll it down, I need to push down on it to engage the teeth, and then it>
rolls down just fine. Is my regulator shot, or am I merely missing a piece>
that limits its travel?
> Thank you, > Bill
_________________________________________________________________
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From bmounce at rcn.com  Tue Jun  3 14:08:42 2008
From: bmounce at rcn.com (Bill Mounce)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 16:08:42 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] map light
Message-ID: <D0C591736C5B4757A8244A3135C2143C@HOVAC>

Hi all

 

I have changed over to a wood dashboard in my Pine.  There appears to be an
indentation at the top of the dashboard over the glove box (with door).
Does the map light go there, or do wood dash board Pines (i.e. GTs) not have
a map light?  If so, does it go outside the glove box, and is it the same as
the PVC dashboard's light?



Thanks, 

 

Bill Mounce

From bmounce at rcn.com  Wed Jun  4 15:05:58 2008
From: bmounce at rcn.com (Bill Mounce)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 17:05:58 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] SV Oil gauge question
Message-ID: <B3787517F00F4B3591E6A59B764C2833@HOVAC>

Hello all

 

I have a pressure gauge that has a line that is too short.  On its end is an
unusual compression fitting, which appears to be 3/16", 37 or 45 degree
inverted flare with male threads.  (On the block is a different fitting with
1/8" tubing).  I have been trying to match the two lines using Swagelok
fittings, but the fitting is not 3/16"- the OD is correct, but the threads
are wrong.  I do not want to cut the fitting off the line at this point, as
I need to be sure I can get something to work.  The line is 11/64", so there
is no compression fitting that will accept it.

 

Anyone know what the thread is?

 

Thanks, 

 

Bill

 

PS Did metric show up on any of these cars, or are they too early?

From rande at thecia.net  Fri Jun  6 04:29:52 2008
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 06:29:52 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] LANCO British Invade Gettysburg cancelled
Message-ID: <484911a0.55bb.0@thecia.net>

It was brought to our attention today that the LANCO British Invade
Gettysburg event on Sunday, July 6 has been cancelled.  We have it on the
centerfold calendar in the June issue.  We have updated the events on our
website to show it as cancelled and hope you will let your members know.
The good folks at LANCO do not want people to show up and be disappointed to

learn that the show was cancelled!

Faith Lamprey
The British Marque Car Club News

Forwarded by Rande Bellman

From philipreddy at fuse.net  Sat Jun  7 20:23:49 2008
From: philipreddy at fuse.net (phil)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 22:23:49 -0400
Subject: [Alpines] SV gauge Q. Re: Bill Mounce
Message-ID: <001e01c8c90e$b08720b0$cc2544d8@yourxhtr8hvc4p>

>From the British Screw Thread Std No. 93. # 2 Dia =0.185 " & No. # 3 =0.161"

Then there are the Brit. Whitworth course and fine in both cases there is 3/16
Dia Thd.  Course = 24 T P Inch, Fine = 32 T P Inch.

Phil

From TIGEROOTES at aol.com  Fri Jun 13 11:23:33 2008
From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com (TIGEROOTES at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:23:33 EDT
Subject: [Alpines] Another Get Smart article (no mention of the car)
Message-ID: <d30.31d961ae.35840715@aol.com>

Click here: We've gotten smart: Movie's spy gadgets do exist 

http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/business/1700ap_film_get_smart_gadgets.html



**************
Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
2008.
      (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)

From william.lewis at ucdmc.ucdavis.edu  Fri Jun 13 12:30:19 2008
From: william.lewis at ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (William Lewis)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 11:30:19 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] suspension tuning
Message-ID: <OF31695B24.BDDE9F02-ON88257467.00656D44-88257467.0065962C@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu>

I have the first upgraded heavy duty front sway bar for my Series II Alpine
(my bar is the prototype for all others).  What other suspension tuning
have people done to help our cars stick?  I have a real problem with the
solid rear axle trounce on bumpy roads.  I am using the standard hydraulic
elbow shocks.
Bill Lewis

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Fri Jun 13 12:37:16 2008
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 11:37:16 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] Sunbeam Fastener Kits
Message-ID: <4852BE5C.5040709@mayfco.com>

Folks, I just received my order of stainless steel fasteners from MMS & 
Accessories. I am really happy with the product! I called and talked to 
Nancy Martin and she helped me determine what fasteners I needed. If you 
need any fastener anywhere on the car, give them a call. They can break 
out just about anything you need without having to get extras you don't 
need. And the price was really reasonable especially when compared to 
other suppliers.  I am a happy camper...

Their web site is         http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com    
phone is 1-800-441-9451

mayf

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sat Jun 14 00:15:53 2008
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:15:53 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] An Unresolved Stainless Steel Fastner Question
Message-ID: <48536219.9080206@mayfco.com>

Today I mentioned that I had received my stainless steel bolt assortment 
for reassembling my car. One of the list members on Alpines asked if I 
was going to cad plate them. So, like a big dummy, I ask why would I do 
that? Seems he wasn't really sure either but that some of you folk do it 
and that I should ask.

Ok, so why would anyone cad plate their stainless steel fasteners?  Is 
there a good technical reason or is it cosmetic or what the heck? Us 
inquiring minds wanna know. Oh, I always use a never seize on ss 
fasteners if somehow the cad plating is to prevent galling. Galvanic 
action?

help!!!


mayf

From mike.hooper at Panavision.co.uk  Mon Jun 16 10:38:34 2008
From: mike.hooper at Panavision.co.uk (Mike Hooper)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:38:34 +0100
Subject: [Alpines] diy badges
Message-ID: <F2977028B2926346A37E0D0888FFC20A11CEE6@eumail.eu.panavision.com>

Hi,



Anybody heard of a way to replicate hood or wing badges?



The simple flat 'H120' inserts, Alpine wing scripts, enamel union flags
or Sunbeam bonnet badges?



With all the plastic and metal moulding kits, laser printable metallic
labels and DIY enamel kits around, has anybody tried replicating these
sometimes hard to find parts?



Just a thought...



MIKE HOOPER

From mike.hooper at Panavision.co.uk  Tue Jun 17 05:04:07 2008
From: mike.hooper at Panavision.co.uk (Mike Hooper)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 12:04:07 +0100
Subject: [Alpines] diy badges
In-Reply-To: <C47D2AA4.4496%paul.heuer@dsto.defence.gov.au>
References: <mailman.17.1213639202.4224.alpines@autox.team.net>
	<C47D2AA4.4496%paul.heuer@dsto.defence.gov.au>
Message-ID: <F2977028B2926346A37E0D0888FFC20A11CEEB@eumail.eu.panavision.com>

Just found this if anybody is interested. Seems a little expensive
though...

http://www.gedacolor.ch/kop/kop_e.htm


MIKE HOOPER

-----Original Message-----
From: Heuer Paul [mailto:paul.heuer at dsto.defence.gov.au]


Hi Mike,
The 'Alpine' side scripts are available from a few vendors already, and
I
recently found the bonnet badge for my S3 is available from the Imp
supplier
in the UK (name escapes me at the moment). I suspect the H120 badge
might be
the only one for which there is no reproduction already available.

Sorry no help re casting one though...

Cheers,
Paul.


On 17/6/08 3:30 AM, "alpines-request at autox.team.net"
<alpines-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Subject: [Alpines] diy badges
> To: <alpines at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> <F2977028B2926346A37E0D0888FFC20A11CEE6 at eumail.eu.panavision.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> Anybody heard of a way to replicate hood or wing badges?...

From tom.hill at att.net  Tue Jun 17 06:41:55 2008
From: tom.hill at att.net (tom.hill at att.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 12:41:55 +0000
Subject: [Alpines] diy badges
In-Reply-To: <F2977028B2926346A37E0D0888FFC20A11CEE6@eumail.eu.panavision.com>
Message-ID: <061720081241.29176.4857B113000987DD000071F822243322829B0A02D29B9B0EBF04040708D203019B@att.net>

Hi Mike,

I had some H120 inserts made for my Alpine a few years ago at the local advertising specialty shop.  Their business is making various engraved and silk screened goodies for things like nameplates for desks and the like.

I took a standard Alpine side badge and told him what changes I wanted.  He was able to paint the whole piece black, engrave the lettering from the back and then paint the letters silver.  They came out pretty nice.  He was able to pretty well match the font pretty well too.  The only issue was the little reliefs on the back of the badge.  I think they make room for the motif surround mounting clips.  Even without the reliefs, everything fits up pretty well.

I had a few extras made . . . 

Tom Hill


> Hi, 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody heard of a way to replicate hood or wing badges? 
> 
> 
> 
> The simple flat 'H120' inserts, Alpine wing scripts, enamel union flags 
> or Sunbeam bonnet badges? 
> 
> 
> 
> With all the plastic and metal moulding kits, laser printable metallic 
> labels and DIY enamel kits around, has anybody tried replicating these 
> sometimes hard to find parts? 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a thought... 
> 
> 
> 
> MIKE HOOPER 

From hamilton at accesswave.ca  Sun Jun 22 18:06:42 2008
From: hamilton at accesswave.ca (Bob Hamilton)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 21:06:42 -0300
Subject: [Alpines] Fwd: Re: sunbeam question
Message-ID: <6t3463$c0p9uh@ip01.eastlink.ca>

   Hi everyone,
   This  landed  in  my  email  box  and since I am more into the Sunbeam
   Talbot  Alpine  MK cars, I thought I would forward this onto this list
   in case there was some interest here. I am just the messenger.
   Later,
   Bob

     Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:34:06 -0800
     From: Bill Spear <bill at wmspear.com>
     Subject: Re: sunbeam question
     To: Julia Ann Leonard <dc3girl at yahoo.com>
     Cc: Bob Hamilton <hamilton at accesswave.ca>
     X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.924)
     X-IronPort-Anti-Spam-Filtered: true
     X-IronPort-Anti-Spam-Result:
     AuMCABjqW0jRcK3laWdsb2JhbACCQjGPdw0FBggSnHk
     X-IronPort-AV:                    E=Sophos;i="4.27,682,1204516800";
     d="scan'208,217";a="402176377"
     X-ACS-Spam-Status: no
     X-ACS-Scanned-By: MD 2.63; SA 3.2.4; spamdefang 1.122
     Original-recipient: rfc822;hamilton at accesswave.ca
     Hi  Julie...the hardtops are not my baliwick..but, I will pass this
     on to Bob Hamilton who can help you out..
     Good luck...and you'd better not swear off small cars too soon wiht
     5  dollar  gas  on  the  horizon......the  idea is to get EVERYBODY
     driving small cars :~)
     S
     Wm Spear Design
     www.wmspear.com
     174 South Franklin #201
     Juneau, Alaska 99801
     907 586-2209
     bill@ wmspear.com
     On Jun 20, 2008, at 4:25 PM, Julia Ann Leonard wrote:

     Bill-

     I  am  hoping you can point me in the right direction.  I have a 61
     red sunbeam alpine hardtop convertible.
     It  is in the shop now having the engine rebuilt.  Although it came
     with  a  "stage  5",  the  engine  now  in  the car is a "stage 7".
     Interior is red.  Inside and out the car is in great shape.

     Now,  that is ALL I know about the car, and even that is a straight
     quote  from  the  owner.   :)   I  need  to  sell  this car, and am
     wondering  where  to look to find an accurate value.  Also if there
     is a good broker you could suggest....

     The  car  was  purchased about 5 years ago by fiance, and now it is
     just  sitting.   I  had  a  rather  nasty  accident last week in my
     mustang,  cinching  my  decision  to  NEVER, EVER drive a small car
     again! Any help would be appreciated!

     thanks
     julie
     206 353 9272
     dc3girl at yahoo

   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
   Robert (Bob) A.C. Hamilton, Waverley, Nova Scotia, Canada
   Sunbeam Talbots - Alpine, Drophead and Saloon, 1953-1954
   Sunbeam Talbot Web Page: www.sunbeamtalbot.info (or .org)
   E-Mail: hamilton at accesswave.ca or robertach at ns.sympatico.ca
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

From lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi  Sat Jun 28 01:32:52 2008
From: lehtinen.lauri at kolumbus.fi (Lauri Lehtinen)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 10:32:52 +0300
Subject: [Alpines] Flywheel weight
In-Reply-To: <F2977028B2926346A37E0D0888FFC20A11CEEB@eumail.eu.panavision.com>
Message-ID: <JIEOLIEKDNMMAOMIAGMLAEIEDIAA.lehtinen.lauri@kolumbus.fi>

Dear sirs and ladies,
How much a flywheel should weight for street tuned s4 Alpine?
Years ago I got a drawing and measurements, but I could not open the file
then, and now it is in some of my ancient hard drives.

If someone has dimensions it should make me very happy!

Lauri Lehtinen
journalist, engineer
Helsinki, Finland
Mobile: +358 400 851988

From bhayes at cs.stanford.edu  Mon Jun 30 22:48:09 2008
From: bhayes at cs.stanford.edu (Barry Hayes)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 21:48:09 -0700
Subject: [Alpines] Wire wheel torque
Message-ID: <d0facb1d0806302148m74f6751h553703a05329527f@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 1967 Series V, with wire wheels with knockoffs. From the
owners handbook I gather that the spec for tightening them is "whack
them a bunch with the lead hammer". I would rather have something
measured in lb-ft. What numbers are people using to torqu on their
wheels?
 -Barry

-- 
bhayes yat cs dot stanford dot edu is what you should put in your
contact files -- it'll forward to me no matter where I move