<html><head></head><body><div class="yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10px;"><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Many thanks to folks who responded. Much appreciated. As suggested, I used the multimeter with the speedometer partially out of the dash and stabilizer body grounded to battery. You have to mentally average out many I side voltage readings as it constantly changes on the multimeter.. The new stabilizer in the British Spares box gave high voltage and high gauge readings. I cleaned the corrosion and crud off the old (original?) stabilizer case and terminals and hooked it up. It produced accurate gauge readings and now all is well. </div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Both stabilizers have a tiny external slotted screw close to the I terminal. I've heard this is an adjustment screw to adjust the voltage step-down from battery to Smith's instrument voltage.? Anybody know anything about this or the how-to procedure? I guess I would turn the small slotted screw one way or the other, wait a bit and see if the I side voltage and the gauge readings changed and repeat till things looked normal?</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Now, on to fix my non-functioning horn. I'll guess the horn is fine, but I've lost connection somewhere. I've fixed it before.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Cheers, Bruce Simms 73TR6 </div></div></body></html>