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<div> <font size="3">Sounds like your typical low quality, low cost sourced parts. You could look for an OE part from a breakers yard. That might be your best bet. An alternative would be to use relays to carry the heavy current. That way the low quality ignition switch would only have to carry the coil current and the the full current. That's a crappy work around but sometimes that is what it takes.</font></div>
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<div><font size="3">One of the suppliers once told me that they used to send a part to the Pacific rim and say make one like this. That didn't work out so well. Now they have to generate a drawing with material specifications and all sorts of things. But you still need a QA department to inspect the incoming material and that costs money, too. We don't have the volume to support this kind of support. It's the nature of the hobby at this point in time. If you can find genuine OE, go for it..<br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Robert Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net><br>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>; jaystr8@comcast.net; 6pack@autox.team.net<br>
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2022 6:57 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures<br>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Dave,</div>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">The ignition switch would sometimes not provide enough power to the starter solenoid to start the starter then progressively got to the point that the starter would not start. I could jump the starter with a screwdriver and the starter would work. I took apart the switch and found that the fiberboard plate that rotates was scored and offset from the contacts. The contacts were dirty with pits and not smooth anymore. Basically wore out. The replacement switch worked for a short while but then started having the same problem. I took the replacement switch apart and found that the brass contacts were not aligned very well. The contacts were mating on a small patch on the side of the two contacts instead of full contact between the two contacts for the solenoid power wire.</div>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Regards,</div>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Robert</div>
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<div>-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com><br clear="none">Sent: Jul 8, 2022 6:50 AM<br clear="none">To: rgperry@earthlink.net <rgperry@earthlink.net>, jaystr8@comcast.net <jaystr8@comcast.net>, 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net><br clear="none">Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures</div>
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<div><span style="font-size:medium;">Interesting. I had a dodgy ignition switch in my 71 TR6. I replaced it and it has been fine ever since. That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago. <br clear="none"></span></div>
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<div><span style="font-size:medium;">What issues are you having? Mine would spontaneously switch off the ignition. A little wiggle would restore power. I've had no issues since.</span></div>
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<div><span style="font-size:large;">Dave <br clear="none"></span></div>
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<div style="font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;">-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">From: Robert Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net><br clear="none">To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net>; 6pack@autox.team.net<br clear="none">Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am<br clear="none">Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></span></span>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Jay,</div>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">I have experienced this situation also. I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk. I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts. This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.</div>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Regards,</div>
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<div style="margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Robert</div>
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<div>-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net><br clear="none">Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM<br clear="none">To: <6pack@autox.team.net><br clear="none">Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures</div>
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<div class="yiv5067006115MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri;font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;">I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2<sup>nd</sup> time in 2 years. Both switches were genuine Lucas parts. LU39415 The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period. I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago. I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter. And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat. Is there any reason to add a relay? There doesn’t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid. Thanks.</span></span></div>
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