<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line="true">Jay,</p>
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<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line="true">I have experienced this situation also. I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk. I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts. This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.</p>
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<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line="true">Regards,</p>
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<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line="true">Robert</p>
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<p>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net><br>Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM<br>To: <6pack@autox.team.net><br>Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt;">I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2<sup>nd</sup> time in 2 years. Both switches were genuine Lucas parts. LU39415 The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period. I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago. I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter. And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat. Is there any reason to add a relay? There doesn’t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid. Thanks.</span></span></p>
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