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Yea, I had seen the booster rod was adjustable, and I adjusted it in a little bit, but wasn't really sure what I was doing. I'll tell you, a new booster surely does feel like the car has 'power brakes' for the first time ever. Maybe I need to adjust that rod
in a bit again, but it's kinda hard to even tell which way is in. </div>
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I think my 2nd issue must have been the tipping valve. I've never touched my calipers. </div>
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Again, I'm going to re-bleed the fronts and take it for a ride. </div>
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Sloane </div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Richard <taylorturbo6@yahoo.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, November 4, 2021 4:59 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [6pack] New Master Cylinder locking up</font>
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<div>Slone---either the tipping valve doesn't reseat after applying the brake, or the rod in the booster is extending too far. (It's supposed to be adjustable) Either of the two can stop the brake pads from retracting. </div>
<div>Lastly, if the caliper pistons stick and don't return, that can happen if replaced and not prelubed. The hunt is on! </div>
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<div>Dick</div>
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On Nov 4, 2021, at 7:56 AM, im sloane <<a href="mailto:im_sloane@hotmail.com">im_sloane@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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Hey guys</div>
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I have one of the new TRW MCs, and twice now it's locked up the brakes. First time when I backed off the nuts between it and the booster it freed up, but the second time I had to back off the line to the front brakes and when it bled a bit, they freed up. I
had noticed the front brakes were smoking when I stopped. </div>
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Anybody had issue and have any tips for how to fix this one? Easy enough to replace, if necessary, but hate to throw away a brand new one if it's a known issue/fix. </div>
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Sloane </div>
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69-Six</div>
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72-Spit</div>
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