<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><div class=""><br class=""></div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Thanks for all the informed replies. I very much appreciate the advice. I did source hydraulic assembly grease form British Parts Northwest and will attempt to rebuild the master, and if that fails to repair the problem, I’ll source a new one. This is kind of one of those “The journey is more important the destination” projects while I’m sticking around the house<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The master cylinder that I had totally fail had been re-sleeved as part of the original rebuild process. We are fortunate to have an array of options in repairing our old Triumph cars. In watching automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get replacement parts. In most cases we are only a phone call (mouse click) away from a part.</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>After the m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the necessary maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary maintenance.</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Thanks again all for the help and suggestions. Stay safe.</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Best,</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Bob <br class=""><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>’72 Tr6</div><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock <<a href="mailto:don.hiscock@gmail.com" class="">don.hiscock@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available? I like the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff. The price for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration. That my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.</div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <<a href="mailto:dlhogye@comcast.net" class="">dlhogye@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u class=""></u>
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If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly.
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Good luck for good brakes.
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Dave H.
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On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <<a href="mailto:rrochlin@comcast.net" target="_blank" class="">rrochlin@comcast.net</a>> wrote:
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<br class=""> Hi Richard,
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I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly… I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I’m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself.
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Although I’ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I’ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
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Best,
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Bob
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On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay <
<a href="mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com" target="_blank" class="">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>> wrote:
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Hello Bob,
<em class="">et al.</em>,
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Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an
<em class="">All Clear</em> has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck.
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I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
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In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today!
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Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
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</div>-rick
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On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <
<a href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" target="_blank" class="">6pack@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down’t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
<br class=""> I’ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I’ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I’m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don’t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping.
<br class=""> Any advice would be appreciated.
<br class=""> Best,
<br class=""> Bob
<br class=""> ’72 TR6
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