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<p>Rick,</p>
<p>There used to be someone on Ebay that repaired those units. You
buy a rebuilt one and turn in your old one as a core. Not sure if
the service exists today but worth a look.</p>
<p>My rebuilt one is leak free for 10 years with Dot 5.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/2/19 8:33 AM, Richard Lindsay via
6pack wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAOc+-dwTQjVpk5h075S4SbupSK-khV-SnrLoy+S2hQsZ_=Bhqw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">Hey all,
<div dir="auto"> Today, before the Houston heat grows too
great, I hope to address the rear brake hydraulics on my '75
TR6 project car. Specifically, I will inspect all of the
pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex hose. Work
from the distribution block on to the new slave cylinders has
already been completed.</div>
<div dir="auto"> I already finished work on the front system
and cleaned up the area. Here's how it looks now. (Remember,
this is to be a nice driver, not a show car.)<br>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><a
href="http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg"
moz-do-not-send="true">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg</a><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"> The switch on the pressure differential
warning system, is bad and the piston seals leak. Until
replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port is sealed
with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing
so leaves the system a straight through junction, if with a
tiny bit of leakage between chambers.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Rick</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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