<html><head></head><body><div class="yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10px;"><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Replaced the leaky original with a Country brand one made in India, and all seems well. Visually similar to original. With rad cap off to burp the system, I can see good speed of coolant circulation. Original was StanPart/RHP. Thin layer of Permatex Ultimate Gray on both sides of paper gasket. A good technique for the tight space was to offer the nut up to the stud with an extendable magnetic pickup and then get the first few threads with a screwdriver on the side of the nut. I had a hard time finding an original dimension stud so ended up cutting a longer one down on the bench grinder and using a coarse thread nut on the pump side.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Agree that a modern 5 vane curved impeller is more effective. Understand The Flying Dutchman adds this on a pump overhaul. Wonder what he uses.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">A friend has access to a press and we might try to rebuild the original. I'm told you can likely match the bearing and seal if you bring the old ones </div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">into a bearing supplier.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I'm not completely taken with the durability of the green replica rubber hoses. Used a new Gates brand hose for bottom rad hoses. The parts guy at a better automotive supplier went out back and found a hose that matched the curve and diameter. Cut it into the two needed lengths.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Cheers, Bruce Simms 73TR6</div></div></body></html>