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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>I know this pump is EXTREMELY expensive, but I really think its worth it. I was not going to buy it, but the wife and I were heading out on a long trip and she said “just do it.” we have a 72, with the needles pointing down. The needle went from typically pointing to about the 7 position on a clock to about the 5 position. We also installed the aluminum housing. So saved about 6 pounds, which I know is pretty pointless. Changing from steel to billet aluminum also has some horsepower gains (also probably small)<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><a href="http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr5-tr250-c7/tr5-engine-c17/racetorations-lightweight-water-pump-and-pulley-billet-6-cylinder-p795">http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr5-tr250-c7/tr5-engine-c17/racetorations-lightweight-water-pump-and-pulley-billet-6-cylinder-p795</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>if it tells you anything, I’m going to get one for my TR4.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Yahoo via 6pack<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, July 25, 2019 12:31 PM<br><b>To:</b> 6pack@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [6pack] Water pump Replacement Experience<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>Replaced the leaky original with a Country brand one made in India, and all seems well. Visually similar to original. With rad cap off to burp the system, I can see good speed of coolant circulation. Original was StanPart/RHP. Thin layer of Permatex Ultimate Gray on both sides of paper gasket. A good technique for the tight space was to offer the nut up to the stud with an extendable magnetic pickup and then get the first few threads with a screwdriver on the side of the nut. I had a hard time finding an original dimension stud so ended up cutting a longer one down on the bench grinder and using a coarse thread nut on the pump side.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>Agree that a modern 5 vane curved impeller is more effective. Understand The Flying Dutchman adds this on a pump overhaul. Wonder what he uses.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>A friend has access to a press and we might try to rebuild the original. I'm told you can likely match the bearing and seal if you bring the old ones <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>into a bearing supplier.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>I'm not completely taken with the durability of the green replica rubber hoses. Used a new Gates brand hose for bottom rad hoses. The parts guy at a better automotive supplier went out back and found a hose that matched the curve and diameter. Cut it into the two needed lengths.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:7.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>Cheers, Bruce Simms 73TR6<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>