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<div>This is a issue all long term, or new to you TR owners face if it hasn't been addressed. It can be everything/anything from broken pin in TO bearing shaft, to elongated holes in clutch master cylinder , and or slave cylinder rods</div>
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<div><font style="color:#333333"><i>Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID</i></font></div>
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Ashford Little via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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<div>Have you replaced the pilot bushing lately by chance? If not, then the broken taper pin seems to be a typical issue. I was lucky, I got to experience both. <br class="">
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Ashford Little</div>
<div class=""><a href="mailto:ralittle2@mac.com" class="">ralittle2@mac.com</a></div>
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<div class="">On Oct 20, 2015, at 5:22 PM, Dale Katzfey via 6pack <<a href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" class="">6pack@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" class="">Here is my problem which I need some guidance. When I start in the morning everything works fine. I can put the car in reverse without any problems. I can up or down shift easily. As things warm up, it gets harder and harder
to shift gears. It is almost like the clutch is not going far enough especially into first or second. Even when I double clutch it. When I try to put it in reverse, it grinds. <i class="">
</i>I can get it into reverse but it does not want to go there. If I turn off the engine and start up with the clutch depressed, it will work without grinding.<br class="">
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I made sure I had the DOT 5 fluid up to full. I got an adjustable link connector between the slave and clutch and have lengthened that out quite a bit without success. Transmission oil was low, so I filled that.
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What do you think? My regular mechanic thinks it is the clutch, but why does it work when cold? HELP!<br class="">
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Dale<br class="">
1974 TR6<br class="">
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