<html><head><style type='text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div style='font-family: arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000'><font face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Hi Bill,</font><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><br></span></div><div><font face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">I have more questions than answers, I'm afraid, and after 3 months you've probably asked yourself all of them but here goes:</font></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><br></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">How do you know for certain that 3 cylinders are not firing? This points to a pretty weird scenario of 3 spark plugs, 3 spark plug leads or 3 terminals on the distributor cap all failing at once. Unlikely. Misfiring at temperature means that something is losing continuity when it gets hot. This will not happen due to the temperature compensators. Yes..the car may behave less then ideally if these things are out of whack, but I believe the cross-over on the intake manifold would ensure that the problem, if the compensators were causing one, would be apparent everywhere..not just on 3 cylinders. </div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><br></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">I'm definitely leaning toward an electrical problem. It's not the coil, the condenser or the points because their misbehaviors would not be cylinder-specific so I think you've got a spark distribution problem.</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><br></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Try swapping some leads between dizzy cap and plugs to see if the misfire migrates when it warms up. If it does…the lead(s) are the problem. I've had lead problems before so I'm leaning in this direction.</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><br></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Ditto with the plugs. Swap them around and see if the problem moves. If it does…plugs are the culprit(s). I'd be less surprised by 3 duds in a batch of 6 leads then I would be by 3 duds in a batch of 6 plugs because leads are more easily damaged. </div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><br></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">OH…a longshot: Have you had the air filter box off? If so, and if you mistakenly covered the hole on the carb throat face that doesn't get a bolt going through it, by putting the gasket on backwards, this will be your problem. If those holes are blocked, the car will run OK only up to about 2500 rpm. If you typically keep the revs at or below this level while you warm the car up, you could think the problem is temperature related. That said….I'm still thinking you've got a sparking problem, not an aspiration problem.</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><br></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Colin </div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">'74-1/2</div><br><hr id="zwchr" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none;"><b>From: </b>6pack-request@autox.team.net<br><b>To: </b>6pack@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, September 14, 2015 11:00:01 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>6pack Digest, Vol 14, Issue 5<br><br>Send 6pack mailing list submissions to<br> 6pack@autox.team.net<br><br>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<br>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br> 6pack-request@autox.team.net<br><br>You can reach the person managing the list at<br> 6pack-owner@autox.team.net<br><br>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."<br><br><br>Today's Topics:<br><br> 1. TR-6 Carb question (wcwellbaum@cox.net)<br> 2. Re: TR-6 Carb question (Mark J Bradakis)<br><br><br>----------------------------------------------------------------------<br><br>Message: 1<br>Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2015 02:18:22 +0000 (GMT)<br>From: wcwellbaum@cox.net<br>To: 6pack@autox.team.net, jpaynepbr@cox.net, Steve Kennedy<br> <triumph971@aol.com><br>Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Carb question<br>Message-ID: <18cabb4.349f.14fc9a56096.Webtop.0@cox.net><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no<br><br>My '75 TR-6 will run well until it warms up and will then drop down to <br>the rear three cylinders with spitting and popping out the exhaust.<br><br>Following is a list of what I've tried to correct my problem:<br><br>New:<br>Dizzy cap, rotor, points, ign. wires, coil, capacitor, plugs.<br><br>Relatively new fuel pump, and a new fuel filter. Plenty of fuel being <br>pumped into both carbs.<br><br>Carbs: took them apart and cleaned all parts. Replaced the Grose jets <br>and diaphragms. Took the bi-metal thingies apart and cleaned them out <br>and reassembled. Set the float levels. Using 20 weight oil in the <br>dashpots.<br>Used compressed air to flush all fuel lines and can hear gurgling in the <br>gas tank. Float bowels are squeaky clean. Carbs were rebuilt by <br>Roadster Factory several years ago. All this work have resulted in NO <br>correction of the problem.<br><br>Put new fuel filter on today and it fired right up. Idled smoothly for <br>about 5-8 minutes and dropped down to the rear 3 pots. Still have spark <br>to the front cylinders.<br><br>Don't have any overheating symptoms and don't smell any anti-freeze or <br>the smell associated with overheating issues. I've been trying to <br>correct the problem for about 3 months now and have run out of ideas on <br>what it could be.<br><br>Does NOT seem to be electrical in nature but DOES seem to be heat <br>related. As is, runs fine till warm. Another Club mate suggested the <br>bi-metal gizmos may have something to do with my problem. Any ideas?<br><br>Clue: If I have spark to the three front cylinders and and I have <br>gasoline being pumped into the front carb what would cause the three <br>front cylinders to stop firing when warmed up. Need Help!<br><br>Bill Wellbaum<br>British Auto Club of Las Vegas<br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message: 2<br>Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2015 22:56:14 -0600<br>From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com><br>To: wcwellbaum@cox.net, 6pack@autox.team.net, jpaynepbr@cox.net, Steve<br> Kennedy <triumph971@aol.com><br>Subject: Re: [6pack] TR-6 Carb question<br>Message-ID: <55F6536E.6020503@bradakis.com><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed<br><br>How do you know which cylinders are nit working? What have you done to check for vacuum leaks?<br><br>mjb.<br><br><br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Subject: Digest Footer<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>6pack mailing list<br>6pack@autox.team.net<br>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>End of 6pack Digest, Vol 14, Issue 5<br>************************************<br></div><br></div></body></html>