<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8827">James, <br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9430" dir="ltr">I sense the potential for a serious case of shipwrights disease setting in. It happened to me on my 71 TR6 rustoration a few years ago. DPO had welded a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4" angle iron the full length of the inside sill from the firewall to the rear panel with full length welds. Ever being the curious engineer, I had to see what was underneath that and proceeded to grind welds to extract the angle iron. I'm glad I did since both four-bolt tub mounts to the frame were completely rusted through meaning the left side of the tub was not bolted down. That lead to a full soda blasting of the body to see what other surprises there were which then lead to new sills and floor pans installed after the door opening was well braced along with a number of other sheet metal parts. It also uncovered some frame damage that I repaired and further descended into a full frame off. And all I wanted originally was a daily driver! <br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9285" dir="ltr">In all, as painful as it was, I'm glad I did it the way I did but it took 3 years. That's the wonder of owning these old cars and keeping them on the road. Every nod and thumbs-up I get when driving my 6 confirms I made the right decision. <br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9314" dir="ltr"> <br></div><div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9286">I recently picked up a 59 TR3 barn find and made sure I more thoroughly
inspected the sheet metal but am fully expecting some surprises as I dig into it. <br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9400" dir="ltr"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9555" dir="ltr">In the end, we need to make the decisions on what needs to be done to make the car safe to drive versus what would be nice to do. It sounds like from what you're saying, the rest of the car is sound and a couple of patches will get you on the road. If you can find the patches, I'm sure a traveling welder can tack them in for a reasonable charge. Another alternative is to contact the local vo-tech and see they need a donor project for the students. You never know if the instructor will take a liking to a LBC project. Lastly, another option is to go to a regular body shop and negotiate a flat price as a filler job to be completed within x weeks/months (be sure to set a complete by date). They may give it to an apprentice and cut you a good deal if they use it as a filler between jobs. <br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9778" dir="ltr"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9842" dir="ltr">Good luck in deciding which way to go. I hope my 2 cents is helpful. <br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9844" dir="ltr"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9846" dir="ltr">Ron Weber</div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9848" dir="ltr">71TR6</div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9850" dir="ltr">59TR3A in kit form<br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9401" dir="ltr"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9372"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8821" style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8820" style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8819" dir="ltr"><font id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9556" face="Arial" size="2"><b id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9559"><span id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9558" style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Larry Young via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net><br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> 6pack@autox.team.net <br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Thursday, June 11, 2015 3:25 PM<br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...<br> </font> </div> <div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9563" class="y_msg_container"><br><div id="yiv5495278081"><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9565">
James,<br clear="none">
I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model
T guy, I have done my share. I agree with everyone that suggested
patching. A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original
metal and is just as strong. When I had the rockers repaired, I
bought the replacement piece. Since it was just rusted at the
front, the body guy suggested we just cut off the front part and
weld it in, because he could not duplicate the original spot welds.
I'd suggest you get a 110V MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller). They are
cheaper and easier to use than a TIG, but you will have to do some
grinding. If money is an issue, I have also used good old fashioned
gas hammer welding. Here is an example of stuff I've done with my
MIG - <a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" class="yiv5495278081moz-txt-link-abbreviated" target="_blank" href="http://www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies">www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies</a>. Oklahoma is 49th in education,
but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. I'd recommend that as a good
way to learn. <br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show
car and do not drive it like one. I did want to keep it original,
because back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it. As
far as costs go, you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast
and probably 1K in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat). Its
worth it, because modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better
than original. I know the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks
working on it. On top of those costs, I also stripped my frame and
had it blasted and epoxy primed. I know you don't want to do all of
this now, but if you have to take the body off, then .......<br clear="none">
Larry Young<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div class="yiv5495278081moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack
wrote:<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
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<div>I want a good job and get her on the road so i can
drive it. but with all these rusted out sections, i need
to repair them first.</div>
</div>
<div>not <div class="qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class="yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id="yiv5495278081yqtfd02219"><br clear="none">
</div></div><div class="yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id="yiv5495278081yqtfd42358">
<div>I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit
expensive) and LEARN to weld!</div>
<div>Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the
summer, but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach
myself and find friends of friends</div>
<div>instruct me.</div>
<div>I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat
sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall </div>
<div>near the commission plates . <span style="font-size:12pt;">probably a 1"x5" section.</span></div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the
crazy corner section directly under the fuse box, master
cylinder area.</div>
<div>Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect
salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can extract this
crazy multi-sided</div>
<div>section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld
in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or
do it myself. </div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel
arch/inner fender sections?</div>
<div>Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping.
Be even nicer if someone has the small section I need and
not have to ruin a good part that is intact.</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Thanks.</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>James</div>
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