<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div><br></div><div>One thought I have is to locate a good inner well arch for drivers side or at least the flat triangle section to cut out and use that to replace my bad corner. It is the worse of the rust</div><div><br></div><div>The. The floor pan issue. They are shot!</div><div><br></div><div>If I could get it all fixed for say under $4k I'd be happy. </div><div>Well,</div><div>I have two other places to call. </div><div><br></div><div>If I sold the car I know I would not be able to buy a different one. Probably just flat out done with classic cars. I'll probably need therapy over the</div><div>Mere sight of classic cars now! Hah. </div><div><br><div><br></div>—Sent from my Atari 2600—</div><div><br>On Jun 9, 2015, at 1:55 PM, "James_ via 6pack" <<a href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div dir="ltr"><div>Hi all…</div><div><br></div><div>First….<span style="font-size: 12pt;">I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away….seriously…even after 22 years of my entire adult life.</span></div><div><br></div><div>I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's…and I gather he does very high end work….and accustom to people with deep pockets.</div><div>So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.</div><div><br></div><div>First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to replace.</div><div>First overwhelming thought…body of the car? ugh.</div><div><br></div><div>Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has</div><div>eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.</div><div>(I can send a picture if anyone is interested)</div><div><br></div><div>So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.</div><div>Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the year.</div><div>Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.</div><div>I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...<span style="font-size: 12pt;">my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">find a car</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> that </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">comes close to showroom condition!!!</span></div><div><br></div><div>I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm….what else…</div><div><br></div><div>…I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.</div><div><span style="font-size: 12pt;">or:</span></div><div>Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy…mercy…no more…make it stop" stage.</div><div>- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again….I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and <span style="font-size: 12pt;">I know the history of THIS car.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br></span></div><div><div>Or:</div><div>another option….(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding job </div><div>but not nearly as intense of a procedure <font size="3">or expensive. I know</font>…<font size="3">you get what you pay for. </font></div></div><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div>This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay painted.</div><div>At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!</div><div>(only half kidding….)</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Oh, one more thing….</div><div>this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided if I use it.</div><div>I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!</div><div>He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm….They void it if the silicone falls the parts.</div><div>Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid. </div><div>I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates. </div><div><br></div><div>I was recently curious why <font size="3">auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments</font>…<font size="3">is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?</font></div><div><br></div><div>Well, any advice or words of comfort?</div><div><br></div><div>James</div><div><br></div><div>1976 TR6 </div><div><br></div> </div>
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