From rrochlin at comcast.net Tue Jun 6 12:38:38 2023 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2023 14:38:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Heat Range Message-ID: <0B7F3980-0B41-4375-B892-8B1FCEABF2BB@comcast.net> I?m looking for a spark plug that is just a little cooler than the stock Champion N9YC plugs that I?m running. I?ve had no luck finding Champion N8YC plugs and each manufacturer has a different designation for the heat range for their plugs so it?s hard to do a direct comparison . Does anyone have a source for cooler plugs? I?m not concerned if they are not Champions. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 6 15:50:18 2023 From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Richard Taylor) Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2023 14:50:18 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Heat Range In-Reply-To: <0B7F3980-0B41-4375-B892-8B1FCEABF2BB@comcast.net> References: <0B7F3980-0B41-4375-B892-8B1FCEABF2BB@comcast.net> Message-ID: I?ve used Champion N7YC in the past. Got them at an ear by auto parts store. Don?t remember which. They work well with a HEI. Dick > On Jun 6, 2023, at 2:41 PM, Rochlin Robert wrote: > > ? I?m looking for a spark plug that is just a little cooler than the stock Champion N9YC plugs that I?m running. I?ve had no luck finding Champion N8YC plugs and each manufacturer has a different designation for the heat range for their plugs so it?s hard to do a direct comparison . Does anyone have a source for cooler plugs? I?m not concerned if they are not Champions. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com > From aljlthomson at charter.net Tue Jun 6 19:08:35 2023 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2023 21:08:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Spark Plug Heat Range In-Reply-To: <0B7F3980-0B41-4375-B892-8B1FCEABF2BB@comcast.net> References: <0B7F3980-0B41-4375-B892-8B1FCEABF2BB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <007b01d998dc$95c1e680$c145b380$@charter.net> Looking at a May 1997 Champion catalog, I see the following plugs that were available: RN4YC - Stock # 904 (Autolite #51) RN6YC - Stock # 339 (Autolite #51) (AC - R41XLS) RN7YC - Stock # 332 (Autolite # 52 or #62) (AC - R42XLS) I didn't see any reference to an (R)8YC Looking at a 1991 Autolite Catalog, 6 cylinder Triumphs were recommended to use an AP63 or AP64 Plug - the "AN" designation was an up market prefix, I believe (like platinum). A 63 or 64 would have been the regular market plug. There were also #51 or #52 plugs recommended Looking at the 1991 AC catalog, there was the 42XLS or the R42XLS plug. Also, from the 1991 AC catalog, '68 - '73 6 cyl. Triumphs used R42XLS plugs and '74 - '76 6 cyl. Triumphs used R44XLS plugs. Did I confuse everybody? Gosh - I just love the old printed catalogs! They have so much information that is easy to obtain and digest. What is the symptom that you have noticed? Here's an interesting site - https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/ Alex Thomson '73 TR6 and 3, 2 cylinder John Deeres plus a Case VAC and a Farmall H. -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rochlin Robert Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2023 2:39 PM To: Triumphs; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Heat Range I?m looking for a spark plug that is just a little cooler than the stock Champion N9YC plugs that I?m running. I?ve had no luck finding Champion N8YC plugs and each manufacturer has a different designation for the heat range for their plugs so it?s hard to do a direct comparison . Does anyone have a source for cooler plugs? I?m not concerned if they are not Champions. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jun 7 06:55:44 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2023 12:55:44 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Heat Range In-Reply-To: References: <0B7F3980-0B41-4375-B892-8B1FCEABF2BB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6ebe321b72794ff2a1db197a73063e1b@ranteer.com> Why do you want cooler plugs? What problem are you trying to solve? From rrochlin at comcast.net Thu Jun 8 07:54:23 2023 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2023 09:54:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Spark Plug Heat Range In-Reply-To: References: <6ebe321b72794ff2a1db197a73063e1b@ranteer.com> <9EF6392C-B18D-4788-AC2D-B9278F0ED1A8@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9D5633FC-FE57-4631-A44B-4A810FCA1A2C@comcast.net> I appreciate all the great feedback on my question about spark plug heat range options. It seems that if I want to incrementally go to a cooler (or hotter) plug then NGK seems be the way to go. Champions are unavailable in a number of heat ranges and the information on their web site is confusing. I?ve spent a lot of time this Spring doing unexpected work on the 6 including suspension work and fuel delivery issues. All that is now sorted and my plan is to spend some quality cruising time this afternoon. Happy Motoring. Bob > On Jun 7, 2023, at 10:18 AM, dave northrup wrote: > > I would suggest that first you advance the timing. You no longer have a stock engine and therefore should not rely on the stock timing. > > Some of my old time mechanic friends have suggested that with these cars you should advance the timing until it pings, then back it off a bit. Just a suggestion. > > Also - do you still have the carbon cannister? That's actually a source of air when you turn the engine off and could be part of the problem. our car runs better without it. just eliminate the branch that goes to it. but be careful about the pipe that goes back to the gas tank. That has to be free and clear or your engine will quit running due to fuel starvation because air is not coming in to replace the gasoline that is going out. you can just leave the pipe that comes from the back; tie it down and leave it open. And you won't get a gas smell in the garage. > > Failing that, I would recommend talking to Richard Good. He is very knowledgeable and happy to talk to a customer. > > We did what you did, with the GP mild cam, triple carbs, lightened flywheel, polished, ported, and shaved head, decked block, etc., etc. we are running about 11 to 1 compression. Our timing is pretty advanced; never use a timing light. We don't have a problem with dieseling. I'm not sure I'm the one to solve the problem for you but it just seems wrong to me that you are having this problem; I don't think it's the plugs. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Rochlin > Sent: Wednesday, June 7, 2023 8:35 AM > To: dave northrup > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Spark Plug Heat Range > > Hi Dave > Very occasionally my car diesels when I shut down. I rebuilt the engine a few years ago increasing the compression and putting in a Goodparts cam. The timing is spot on and the car runs great. My reasoning is that a bit colder plug may eliminate the hot spot source of the occasional dieseling. > Best, > Bob > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 7, 2023, at 9:24 AM, dave northrup wrote: >> >> are > From triumph6pk at aol.com Thu Jun 8 12:10:01 2023 From: triumph6pk at aol.com (Doug Hoffman) Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2023 18:10:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] [TR] Spark Plug Heat Range In-Reply-To: <9D5633FC-FE57-4631-A44B-4A810FCA1A2C@comcast.net> References: <6ebe321b72794ff2a1db197a73063e1b@ranteer.com> <9EF6392C-B18D-4788-AC2D-B9278F0ED1A8@comcast.net> <9D5633FC-FE57-4631-A44B-4A810FCA1A2C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1764159166.30213.1686247801078@mail.yahoo.com> Bob, Just a reminder that NGK plugs get hotter as the number goes lower (the reverse of Champions). You may already know this, but as an example a BPR5ES runs hotter than a BPR6ES.Hoff On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:51:10 AM EDT, Rochlin Robert wrote: ??? I appreciate all the great feedback on my question about spark plug heat range options.? It seems that if I want to incrementally go to a cooler (or hotter) plug then NGK seems be the way to go.? Champions? are unavailable in a number of heat ranges and the information on their web site is confusing. ??? I?ve spent a lot of time this Spring doing unexpected work on the 6 including suspension work and fuel delivery issues.? All that is now sorted and my plan is to spend some quality cruising time this afternoon. ??? Happy Motoring. ??? Bob > On Jun 7, 2023, at 10:18 AM, dave northrup wrote: > > I would suggest that first you advance the timing.? You no longer have a stock engine and therefore should not rely on the stock timing.? > > Some of my old time mechanic friends have suggested that with these cars you should advance the timing until it pings, then back it off a bit.? Just a suggestion. > > Also - do you still have the carbon cannister?? That's actually a source of air when you turn the engine off and could be part of the problem.? our car runs better without it.? just eliminate the branch that goes to it.? but be careful about the pipe that goes back to the gas tank.? That has to be free and clear or your engine will quit running due to fuel starvation because air is not coming in to replace the gasoline that is going out.? you can just leave the pipe that comes from the back; tie it down and leave it open.? And you won't get a gas smell in the garage. > > Failing that, I would recommend talking to Richard Good.? He is very knowledgeable and happy to talk to a customer. > > We did what you did, with the GP mild cam, triple carbs, lightened flywheel, polished, ported, and shaved head, decked block, etc., etc.? we are running about 11 to 1 compression.? Our timing is pretty advanced; never use a timing light.? We don't have a problem with dieseling.? I'm not sure I'm the one to solve the problem for you? but it just seems wrong to me that you are having this problem; I don't think it's the plugs. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Rochlin > Sent: Wednesday, June 7, 2023 8:35 AM > To: dave northrup > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Spark Plug Heat Range > > Hi Dave >? Very occasionally my car diesels when I shut down.? I rebuilt the engine a few years ago increasing the compression and putting in a Goodparts cam.? The timing is spot on and the car runs great. My reasoning is that a bit colder plug may eliminate the hot spot source of the occasional dieseling.? > Best, > Bob > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 7, 2023, at 9:24 AM, dave northrup wrote: >> >> are > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/triumph6pk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Jun 14 09:26:10 2023 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo) Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2023 15:26:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions References: <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572@mail.yahoo.com> Hi there. My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blue? box marked British Spares. The gauges read now, but the readings are very high compared to before, so problematic.? I laid on my back with the engine running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get anywhere.? ?I can try this again setting myself up better if you can test it this way.? I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery voltage down to 10v? for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on the I side.? Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test stabilizers. I presume I need to find and install? a different stabilizer? I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers Moss/BPNW.sell.? ?Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue.? ?The Rimmer Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive written on it.? Caerbont seems to be the manufacturer of? Smiths instruments nowadays.? ?Not sure which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway.? ? Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally goes smoother. Thank you for your advice, Cheers,? Bruce Simms 73 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jun 14 11:32:51 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2023 17:32:51 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions In-Reply-To: <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As a rule of thumb, Moss parts are crap. They only buy the cheapest half ass stuff they can find. And if there are issues they tend to ignore them. see if you can find a used one from one of the spares houses. If you need a referral, I have had very good success with several. From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Yahoo Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions Hi there. My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blue box marked British Spares. The gauges read now, but the readings are very high compared to before, so problematic. I laid on my back with the engine running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get anywhere. I can try this again setting myself up better if you can test it this way. I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery voltage down to 10v for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on the I side. Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test stabilizers. I presume I need to find and install a different stabilizer? I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers Moss/BPNW.sell. Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue. The Rimmer Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive written on it. Caerbont seems to be the manufacturer of Smiths instruments nowadays. Not sure which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway. Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally goes smoother. Thank you for your advice, Cheers, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Jun 14 19:43:23 2023 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 01:43:23 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Everybody forgets about Spitbits.com. Many parts are interchangeable and I can't see how the Voltage Stabilizer wouldn't be too. They list :This Genuine Smiths Voltage Stabilizer will fit all MK4 and 1500 Spitfires. $21.00. Amazing they stay in business when only serving Spitfires, but their prices are always competitive. Oh, as far as testing them, I've always found that very simply, a good one will make a test light blink. I didn't know their purpose was to put out 10V for decades. But the blinking test light has always proved a good unit for me. Maybe this is not true for the solid-state units. A bad one makes Fuel and Temp read too high, too full, too hot. But cold is cold and empty is empty. Of course, YMMV. Sloane 69-Six 72-Spit From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Yahoo Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions Hi there. My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blue box marked British Spares. The gauges read now, but the readings are very high compared to before, so problematic. I laid on my back with the engine running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get anywhere. I can try this again setting myself up better if you can test it this way. I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery voltage down to 10v for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on the I side. Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test stabilizers. I presume I need to find and install a different stabilizer? I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers Moss/BPNW.sell. Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue. The Rimmer Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive written on it. Caerbont seems to be the manufacturer of Smiths instruments nowadays. Not sure which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway. Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally goes smoother. Thank you for your advice, Cheers, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bobfabie at gmail.com Wed Jun 14 19:54:09 2023 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (rmf3860 rmf3860) Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2023 21:54:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1416562842.2355729.1686756370572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a ?75 TR6. I just replaced the voltage stabilizer. On the first one I received from Moss ( Made in China), the mounting bracket that?s spot welded on the unit literally fell off. I didn?t want to solder it in place for fear of damaging the electronics and I felt that using epoxy would not provide proper ground (the unit is grounded through the gauge.) I called Moss and they sent me a new one and told me to throw the other away. Their customer service is good, but too many of their parts are made poorly and cheaply. Probing the stabilizer in-place is not easy/nearly impossible. Removing the speedo is pretty straight forward. I can walk you through it if needed. Once the speedo is even partially out, using your volt meter probes is doable. Remember to run a ground wire from the stabilizer body to a known good ground-I just used the battery. Remember that there are two ground wires that attach to the long screws and shovels and held on with the thumb screws. If you?ve removed the gauge, this ground wire is no longer grounding the stabilizer, so running a direct ground is needed. The ignition needs to be on. On my car, the dark green wires should display terminal battery voltage. When you probe the light green wire (I) terminal your meter should read 10 v. I think you already know this. If the stabilizer performs as described, it?s doing its job. If your temp is suddenly higher than normal, and for no apparent reason, I would clean the temp sending unit and the cable that plugs into it, or it may be a defective/worn out sending unit. The gas gauge is harder to know where it was from time to time. Hope this helps. Bob Fabie On Wed, Jun 14, 2023 at 1:42 PM dave northrup wrote: > As a rule of thumb, Moss parts are crap. They only buy the cheapest half > ass stuff they can find. And if there are issues they tend to ignore > them. see if you can find a used one from one of the spares houses. If > you need a referral, I have had very good success with several. > > > > *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Yahoo > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM > *To:* 6pack at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions > > > > Hi there. > > > > My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage > stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blue > box marked British Spares. The gauges read now, but the readings are very > high compared to before, so problematic. I laid on my back with the engine > running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get > anywhere. I can try this again setting myself up better if you can test > it this way. I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery > voltage down to 10v for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on the > I side. Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test > stabilizers. > > > > I presume I need to find and install a different stabilizer? > > > > I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers > Moss/BPNW.sell. Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue. The Rimmer > Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive written on it. Caerbont > seems to be the manufacturer of Smiths instruments nowadays. Not sure > which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway. > > > > Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally > goes smoother. > > > > Thank you for your advice, > > > > Cheers, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bobfabie at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Wed Jun 14 16:41:57 2023 From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com) Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2023 17:41:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Spark Plug Heat Range In-Reply-To: References: <6ebe321b72794ff2a1db197a73063e1b@ranteer.com> <9EF6392C-B18D-4788-AC2D-B9278F0ED1A8@comcast.net> <9D5633FC-FE57-4631-A44B-4A810FCA1A2C@comcast.net> <052a01d99a1b$9bce66d0$d36b3470$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <406e370f3b21922bff079a613f436b29@automate-it.com> Ha - I hope you don't want a whole set - they claim to have only one left in stock!!! On 2023-06-08 13:14, David Friedlander wrote: > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGPVVRL?th=1&psc=1&language=en_US > > Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: f5179c66.png Type: image/png Size: 91667 bytes Desc: not available URL: From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Jun 19 15:40:25 2023 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo) Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2023 21:40:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer follow-up References: <1374278972.2119201.1687210825152.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1374278972.2119201.1687210825152@mail.yahoo.com> Many thanks to folks who responded. Much appreciated.? ? As suggested, I used the multimeter with the speedometer partially out of the dash and stabilizer body grounded to battery.? ?You have to mentally average out many I side voltage readings as it constantly changes on the multimeter..? The new stabilizer in the British Spares box gave high voltage and high gauge readings.? ?I cleaned the corrosion and crud off the old (original?) stabilizer case and terminals and hooked it up.? ? It produced accurate gauge readings and now all is well.? ? ? ? Both stabilizers have a tiny external slotted screw close to the I terminal. I've heard this is an adjustment screw to adjust the voltage step-down from battery to Smith's instrument voltage.?? ?Anybody know? anything about this or the how-to procedure?? ? I guess I would turn the small slotted screw one way or the other, wait a bit and see if the I side voltage and the gauge readings changed and repeat till things looked normal? Now, on to fix my non-functioning horn.? I'll guess the horn is fine, but I've lost connection somewhere.? I've fixed it before. Cheers,? Bruce? Simms 73TR6?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: