[6pack] rear shock conversion

Wed May 13 17:54:24 MDT 2020

Does any of this help with mental fatigue?  

Ashford Little
ralittle2 at mac.com

> On May 13, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Richard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Ah Mitch....you cheated!! 
> 
> Dick 
> 
>> On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff <ms6453 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I’m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. 
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>> <image1.jpeg>
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>> 
>> 
>> Mitch Seff
>> 
>>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i’m running the “semi-comp” road springs, so it’s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. 
>>>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. 
>>>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. 
>>>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) 
>>>> 
>>>> Dick 
>>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube.
>>>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame.
>>>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember.
>>>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember.
>>>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues.
>>>> Good luck with that
>>>> Glenn
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