From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu May 7 05:54:20 2020 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 06:54:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] So quiet Message-ID: Hello friends, It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and MG lists. I hope you are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have been doing. My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we gotten out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb. I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a little more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and under the upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it can go in. Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may be, and that's okay. Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of precautions. Rick, in a mask -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jschrader7 at cox.net Thu May 7 09:45:35 2020 From: jschrader7 at cox.net (jschrader7 at cox.net) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 11:45:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] So quiet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1949126353.401585.1588866335291@myemail.cox.net> Hi Rick, Greetings from California. No motoring here in San Diego, still on lock down. I'm in the middle of front end rebuild for the last few weeks. Stay safe, Jeff > On May 7, 2020 at 7:54 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Hello friends, > It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and MG lists. I hope you are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have been doing. > My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we gotten out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb. > I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a little more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and under the upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it can go in. Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may be, and that's okay. > > Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of precautions. > > Rick, in a mask > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jschrader7 at cox.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu May 7 09:50:47 2020 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 10:50:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] So quiet In-Reply-To: <1949126353.401585.1588866335291@myemail.cox.net> References: <1949126353.401585.1588866335291@myemail.cox.net> Message-ID: Thanks Jeff. Great time to so service and maintenance. On Thu, May 7, 2020, 10:45 AM wrote: > Hi Rick, > Greetings from California. > No motoring here in San Diego, still on lock down. I'm in the middle of > front end rebuild for the last few weeks. > Stay safe, > Jeff > > On May 7, 2020 at 7:54 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote: > > Hello friends, > It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and MG lists. I hope you > are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have been doing. > My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we gotten > out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb. > I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a little > more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and under the > upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it can go in. > Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may be, and that's > okay. > > Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge > to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing > its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have > become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of > precautions. > > Rick, in a mask > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jschrader7 at cox.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 7 10:01:00 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 16:01:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] So quiet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1014239088.1920805.1588867260745@mail.yahoo.com> Not much on the TR6.? I had a new top installed.dash side pads with speaker holes and installed some speakers.? These replace the small, bookshelf speakers I had stashed in the footwells.? Surprisingly the bookshelf speakers did not get in the way of getting in or out or operating the pedal.? However, they were not very efficient and were easily drowned out.? The new speakers put out more noise and I can hear them better.? Still, trying to listen to the radio with the top down at 70 MPH on the interstate is an exercise in futility, I fired up the TR3 last weekend and washed it. Been working on the EFI conversion for the TR8 but that's for another list.? ;-) Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, May 7, 2020 6:54 am Subject: [6pack] So quiet Hello friends, ?? Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of precautions.? Rick, in a mask -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu May 7 11:29:24 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 11:29:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] So quiet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You would think that traffic on the lists might pick up a bit with more folks staying at home and looking for things to do. What I would like to see is folks going to http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local and subscribing to that list.? It is the proper place for diversions like the 'old sayings' thread that was not exactly appropriate material for this list, but some folks enjoyed, while others complained about off-topic. I do what I can, but can't please everybody all the time.? Such is life. Stay healthy, my friends. mjb. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 7 11:35:36 2020 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 13:35:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] So quiet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <38bcabeb-5cbd-95b6-cda6-94c4fbc16749@adelphia.net> I have had my 72 6 out once and the 58 3 out twice. Next week the high will be in the low 40s. Very long and cold Spring like last year but at least I have had 2 cars out before May 1. Last year I didn't get anything out until May 15! Top down on the 3 and the few police I have seen didn't wink an eye. I do have some work to do on the 6. The left side rear lights dont work at all. So I am guessing a bad ground (I hope). Bob On 5/7/20 1:29 PM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack wrote: > You would think that traffic on the lists might pick up a bit with > more folks staying at home and looking for things to do. > > What I would like to see is folks going to > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local and subscribing to > that list.? It is the proper place for diversions like the 'old > sayings' thread that was not exactly appropriate material for this > list, but some folks enjoyed, while others complained about off-topic. > > I do what I can, but can't please everybody all the time.? Such is life. > > Stay healthy, my friends. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr at adelphia.net > From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun May 10 22:12:09 2020 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 04:12:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> An old topic,? but came up recently from the mgb side of my club? ? ?john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets.? ?I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see.? ? After some of the horror storis about this conversion,? ?I might not do it again?Cheers? ?bruce simms Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 11 06:23:03 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:23:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <735450304.542175.1589199783553@mail.yahoo.com> There are several tube shock conversion kits out there and there are several significant differences.? I know of three styles: #1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well.? This one is evil.? This kit transfers all the shock loading to the bodywork which was not designed to this and will suffer for it.? Avoid at all costs. #2 Multi-piece.? This has a series of three brackets on each side.? There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock.? This kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for it.? The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the bodywork and the brackets are bulky.? I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well. #3 single bracket direct to the frame.? This part is unique in its appearance in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to the frame where the lever shock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the shock.? It has been said that this bracket will crack the frame since it has a long lever arm and could apply additional torque to the mount.? But a quick vector analysis indicates that the forces are parallel to the long axis of the bracket and the loading on the frame will be not significantly different that those applied by the original lever shock.? The TR6 frame is infamous for having weak spots but the shock mount is not one of them.? The differential mount certainly is and 40 year old frames tend to experience cracking regardless of what shock system is used. I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back to lever shocks re-valved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solution for street use.? I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopic shocks with #3 but having other irons in the fire I did not pursue that approach. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion An old topic,? but came up recently from the mgb side of my club? ? ?john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets.? ?I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see.? ? After some of the horror storis about this conversion,? ?I might not do it again?Cheers? ?bruce simms -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Mon May 11 09:47:44 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 10:47:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <735450304.542175.1589199783553@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <735450304.542175.1589199783553@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have the type that mounts to the old shock mount, just one guy, but ten years including regular autocross duties and the mounts and frame are still fine. Somewhere I read, maybe the Williams book on improving TR, that you want to make sure the bump stops do their job, so the load at end of travel isn't transferred through the shock. I put on new bump stops and put an extra washer or two under it as a can't hurt, might help measure. Greg Lemon TR250 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From luichinger at comcast.net Mon May 11 10:22:09 2020 From: luichinger at comcast.net (Mark Luichinger) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:22:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <735450304.542175.1589199783553@mail.yahoo.com> References: <735450304.542175.1589199783553@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <493B93BF-5D1E-4A63-A24C-B005C5B73B3C@comcast.net> Has anyone tried Ratco?s coil over shock conversion. It seems to be the right way to do this type of conversion. Sent from my iPad > On May 11, 2020, at 8:24 AM, DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > There are several tube shock conversion kits out there and there are several significant differences. I know of three styles: > > #1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well. This one is evil. This kit transfers all the shock loading to the bodywork which was not designed to this and will suffer for it. Avoid at all costs. > > #2 Multi-piece. This has a series of three brackets on each side. There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock. This kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for it. The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the bodywork and the brackets are bulky. I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well. > > #3 single bracket direct to the frame. This part is unique in its appearance in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to the frame where the lever shock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the shock. It has been said that this bracket will crack the frame since it has a long lever arm and could apply additional torque to the mount. But a quick vector analysis indicates that the forces are parallel to the long axis of the bracket and the loading on the frame will be not significantly different that those applied by the original lever shock. The TR6 frame is infamous for having weak spots but the shock mount is not one of them. The differential mount certainly is and 40 year old frames tend to experience cracking regardless of what shock system is used. > > I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back to lever shocks re-valved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solution for street use. I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopic shocks with #3 but having other irons in the fire I did not pursue that approach. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm > Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion > > An old topic, but came up recently from the mgb side of my club john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets. I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see. After some of the horror storis about this conversion, I might not do it again > Cheers bruce simms > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/luichinger at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 11 11:00:36 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 17:00:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <493B93BF-5D1E-4A63-A24C-B005C5B73B3C@comcast.net> References: <735450304.542175.1589199783553@mail.yahoo.com> <493B93BF-5D1E-4A63-A24C-B005C5B73B3C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1644759885.665282.1589216436891@mail.yahoo.com> Well, yeah!? The factory should have done it this way from the start.? It would be consistent with the front suspension design. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Mark Luichinger To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 11:22 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Has anyone tried Ratco?s coil over shock conversion. ?It seems to be the right way to do this type of conversion.? Sent from my iPad On May 11, 2020, at 8:24 AM, DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: ? There are several tube shock conversion kits out there and there are several significant differences.? I know of three styles: #1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well.? This one is evil.? This kit transfers all the shock loading to the bodywork which was not designed to this and will suffer for it.? Avoid at all costs. #2 Multi-piece.? This has a series of three brackets on each side.? There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock.? This kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for it.? The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the bodywork and the brackets are bulky.? I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well. #3 single bracket direct to the frame.? This part is unique in its appearance in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to the frame where the lever shock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the shock.? It has been said that this bracket will crack the frame since it has a long lever arm and could apply additional torque to the mount.? But a quick vector analysis indicates that the forces are parallel to the long axis of the bracket and the loading on the frame will be not significantly different that those applied by the original lever shock.? The TR6 frame is infamous for having weak spots but the shock mount is not one of them.? The differential mount certainly is and 40 year old frames tend to experience cracking regardless of what shock system is used. I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back to lever shocks re-valved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solution for street use.? I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopic shocks with #3 but having other irons in the fire I did not pursue that approach. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion An old topic,? but came up recently from the mgb side of my club? ? ?john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets.? ?I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see.? ? After some of the horror storis about this conversion,? ?I might not do it again?Cheers? ?bruce simms _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/luichinger at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon May 11 11:01:14 2020 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 13:01:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion TR6 Message-ID: <002c01d627b5$c8ac0990$5a041cb0$@optonline.net> DAVID MASSEY wrote: >#2 Multi-piece.? This has a series of three brackets on each side.? There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up >to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock.? This kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for it.? The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the >bodywork and the brackets are bulky.? I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well. This is the kit that I installed on my TR6 back in '09. Yes, you had to remove the gas tank to do the install and yes, you needed a 90 degree adapter for your drill, but it appeared to be the strongest and most well engineered solution available at the time. There was an installation glitch in that 2 of the brackets were pre-drilled the same when they should have been drilled as a LEFT and a RIGHT. We installed the driver's side first and it was fine but then ran into an issue when we went to install the passenger side - the pre-drilled holes were NOT where they were supposed to be on the bracket. There was plenty of space on the bracket to drill new holes where they should have been but this caused some unnecessary installation angst. At the time, I contacted TRF via an email letting them know of the issue and got no response. That kit appears to have been discontinued. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CCI05112020.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1485503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 11 11:04:15 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 11:04:15 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in Wales and England.? And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering.? That was an amazing event, relly? enjoyed it. One of the many vendors was Racetorations.? They had on display a tube shock conversion kit that was this fancy, intricate bit of welded aluminum plate that was in the style of bolt to the original shock mounts.? A bit past prototype, but not quite production ready, I ended up buying the kit for my TR-250 I had at the time.? One car I really wish I had not sold. Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax shocks, were actually some sort of bombs.? I can't recall for certain, but I think I ended up showing them an ad in some magazine that featured Spax shocks that convinced them to let me through with my prized acquisition.? It was close, though! mjb. ps:? I also have a set of those amazing, wonderful brackets that just bolt to the body sheet metal.? Such classic parts must be worth a small fortune! From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon May 11 11:50:35 2020 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 10:50:35 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> why?? Unless you are hard into racing or even autocross ? that is a lot of effort and money ? why? TR6 rides as good as any and if you are showing ? Triumphest, most Concours will ding you a few points. just wondering ? why? > On May 11, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in Wales and England. And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering. That was an amazing event, relly enjoyed it. > > One of the many vendors was Racetorations. They had on display a tube shock conversion kit that was this fancy, intricate bit of welded aluminum plate that was in the style of bolt to the original shock mounts. A bit past prototype, but not quite production ready, I ended up buying the kit for my TR-250 I had at the time. One car I really wish I had not sold. > > Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax shocks, were actually some sort of bombs. I can't recall for certain, but I think I ended up showing them an ad in some magazine that featured Spax shocks that convinced them to let me through with my prized acquisition. It was close, though! > > mjb. > > ps: I also have a set of those amazing, wonderful brackets that just bolt to the body sheet metal. Such classic parts must be worth a small fortune! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > Life is too short to drive Boring Cars From grglmn at gmail.com Mon May 11 11:52:55 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:52:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> Message-ID: On Mon, May 11, 2020, 12:20 PM Mark J Bradakis via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in > Wales and England. And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide > with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering. That was an amazing > event, relly enjoyed it. > > > "Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the > States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively > certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax > shocks, were actually some sort of bombs. > > mjb." > > Mark, > Should have grabbed the shock back and pushed and pulled to demonstrate damping action, I am not sure if everybody would have taken cover, but you probably would have ended up in handcuffs, at least for a bit. Similar story, friend was bringing back a turbocharger for a BMC A series. There was a lot of hemming and hawing about whether it should be allowed on the plane. Ultimately the airport guys asked if the part was ever exposed to petrol. My friend decided the pragmatic answer would be "no", and they let him and the parts through. Greg Lemon Still has his TR250 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 11 12:04:29 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:04:29 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: On 5/11/20 11:50 AM, William Pugh wrote: > > > > why?? Unless you are hard into racing or even autocross ? that is a lot of effort and money ? why? TR6 rides as good as any and if you are showing ? Triumphest, most Concours will ding you a few points. > > just wondering ? why? > At the time I was autocrossing the car pretty seriously, and wanted to give the easily adjustable Spax a shot to see if they helped with fine tuning the cornering.? And as I recall after 30 years or so they did help, but certainly not miracle workers. mjb. From dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 11 18:47:29 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 00:47:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <368546493.868533.1589244449859@mail.yahoo.com> Well, I had a set of stock shocks rebuilt by (name withheld) and I bought the "Heavy Duty" rebuild.? They were worthless.? When I bounced the car by pushing on the rear bumper it would continue to bounce 3 or 4 times.? Crap, they were.?? After a couple tube shock conversions I decided to give it another go but thins time I sent them (probably the same shocks) to World Wide and they work as they should.? He re-valved them and refilled them (and did whatever he does when he reworks them and They work just fine. Dave -----Original Message----- From: William Pugh via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 12:50 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion why??? Unless you are hard into racing or even autocross ? that is a lot of effort and money ? why?? TR6 rides as good as any and if? you are showing ? Triumphest, most Concours will ding you a few points. just wondering ? why? > On May 11, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in Wales and England.? And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering.? That was an amazing event, relly? enjoyed it. > > One of the many vendors was Racetorations.? They had on display a tube shock conversion kit that was this fancy, intricate bit of welded aluminum plate that was in the style of bolt to the original shock mounts.? A bit past prototype, but not quite production ready, I ended up buying the kit for my TR-250 I had at the time.? One car I really wish I had not sold. > > Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax shocks, were actually some sort of bombs.? I can't recall for certain, but I think I ended up showing them an ad in some magazine that featured Spax shocks that convinced them to let me through with my prized acquisition.? It was close, though! > > mjb. > > ps:? I also have a set of those amazing, wonderful brackets that just bolt to the body sheet metal.? Such classic parts must be worth a small fortune! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > Life is too short to drive Boring Cars _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 11 18:47:29 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 00:47:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <368546493.868533.1589244449859@mail.yahoo.com> Well, I had a set of stock shocks rebuilt by (name withheld) and I bought the "Heavy Duty" rebuild.? They were worthless.? When I bounced the car by pushing on the rear bumper it would continue to bounce 3 or 4 times.? Crap, they were.?? After a couple tube shock conversions I decided to give it another go but thins time I sent them (probably the same shocks) to World Wide and they work as they should.? He re-valved them and refilled them (and did whatever he does when he reworks them and They work just fine. Dave -----Original Message----- From: William Pugh via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 12:50 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion why??? Unless you are hard into racing or even autocross ? that is a lot of effort and money ? why?? TR6 rides as good as any and if? you are showing ? Triumphest, most Concours will ding you a few points. just wondering ? why? > On May 11, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in Wales and England.? And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering.? That was an amazing event, relly? enjoyed it. > > One of the many vendors was Racetorations.? They had on display a tube shock conversion kit that was this fancy, intricate bit of welded aluminum plate that was in the style of bolt to the original shock mounts.? A bit past prototype, but not quite production ready, I ended up buying the kit for my TR-250 I had at the time.? One car I really wish I had not sold. > > Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax shocks, were actually some sort of bombs.? I can't recall for certain, but I think I ended up showing them an ad in some magazine that featured Spax shocks that convinced them to let me through with my prized acquisition.? It was close, though! > > mjb. > > ps:? I also have a set of those amazing, wonderful brackets that just bolt to the body sheet metal.? Such classic parts must be worth a small fortune! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > Life is too short to drive Boring Cars _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon May 11 19:40:29 2020 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 20:40:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <368546493.868533.1589244449859@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> <368546493.868533.1589244449859@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003601d627fe$5204efc0$f60ecf40$@ranteer.com> I investigated the tube shock conversion a few years ago and decided to stick with lever shocks, rebuilt with stiffer valves by World Wide. My son autocrosses this car very successfully. Fyi: https://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/tr6shocks.html From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY via 6pack Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 7:47 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; mark at bradakis.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Well, I had a set of stock shocks rebuilt by (name withheld) and I bought the "Heavy Duty" rebuild. They were worthless. When I bounced the car by pushing on the rear bumper it would continue to bounce 3 or 4 times. Crap, they were. After a couple tube shock conversions I decided to give it another go but thins time I sent them (probably the same shocks) to World Wide and they work as they should. He re-valved them and refilled them (and did whatever he does when he reworks them and They work just fine. Dave -----Original Message----- From: William Pugh via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > To: Mark J Bradakis > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 12:50 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion why?? Unless you are hard into racing or even autocross ? that is a lot of effort and money ? why? TR6 rides as good as any and if you are showing ? Triumphest, most Concours will ding you a few points. just wondering ? why? > On May 11, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > > Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in Wales and England. And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering. That was an amazing event, relly enjoyed it. > > One of the many vendors was Racetorations. They had on display a tube shock conversion kit that was this fancy, intricate bit of welded aluminum plate that was in the style of bolt to the original shock mounts. A bit past prototype, but not quite production ready, I ended up buying the kit for my TR-250 I had at the time. One car I really wish I had not sold. > > Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax shocks, were actually some sort of bombs. I can't recall for certain, but I think I ended up showing them an ad in some magazine that featured Spax shocks that convinced them to let me through with my prized acquisition. It was close, though! > > mjb. > > ps: I also have a set of those amazing, wonderful brackets that just bolt to the body sheet metal. Such classic parts must be worth a small fortune! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > Life is too short to drive Boring Cars _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Mon May 11 19:43:02 2020 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 01:43:02 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It took over 10 years to do it but eventually the leverage from that bolt on rear shock conversion bracket tore the side out of the flimsy sheet metal cross member. [cid:image001.jpg at 01D627DD.24330F30] From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Yahoo via 6pack Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:12 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion An old topic, but came up recently from the mgb side of my club john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets. I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see. After some of the horror storis about this conversion, I might not do it again Cheers bruce simms Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 211849 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Mon May 11 22:54:35 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 23:54:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > > Stan, Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. Thanks, Greg > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 05:21:51 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 11:21:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <003601d627fe$5204efc0$f60ecf40$@ranteer.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <2601070e-7e25-06e6-429b-438171e59cde@bradakis.com> <0F0B91A1-A876-4E49-98C2-8EC1E7FF6E9C@comcast.net> <368546493.868533.1589244449859@mail.yahoo.com> <003601d627fe$5204efc0$f60ecf40$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <12629443.980088.1589282511961@mail.yahoo.com> Pretty much my experience.? I had the single piece brackets ( https://mossmotors.com/rear-shock-conversion-bracket-set ) and some generic tube shocks which I bought second hand from someone else who also converted back to levers.? I noticed no significant changes when I switched back to the levers. Dave -----Original Message----- From: dave via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 'Yahoo via 6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 8:40 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion #yiv8958585215 #yiv8958585215 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8958585215 #yiv8958585215 p.yiv8958585215MsoNormal, #yiv8958585215 li.yiv8958585215MsoNormal, #yiv8958585215 div.yiv8958585215MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8958585215 a:link, #yiv8958585215 span.yiv8958585215MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8958585215 span.yiv8958585215EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv8958585215 .yiv8958585215MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv8958585215 div.yiv8958585215WordSection1 {}#yiv8958585215 I investigated the tube shock conversion a few years ago and decided to stick with lever shocks, rebuilt with stiffer valves by World Wide. ?My son autocrosses this car very successfully. ?Fyi:? https://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/tr6shocks.html ?From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY via 6pack Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 7:47 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; mark at bradakis.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion ?Well, I had a set of stock shocks rebuilt by (name withheld) and I bought the "Heavy Duty" rebuild.? They were worthless.? When I bounced the car by pushing on the rear bumper it would continue to bounce 3 or 4 times.? Crap, they were.?? ?After a couple tube shock conversions I decided to give it another go but thins time I sent them (probably the same shocks) to World Wide and they work as they should.? He re-valved them and refilled them (and did whatever he does when he reworks them and They work just fine. ?Dave ? ?-----Original Message----- From: William Pugh via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 12:50 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion why??? Unless you are hard into racing or even autocross ? that is a lot of effort and money ? why?? TR6 rides as good as any and if? you are showing ? Triumphest, most Concours will ding you a few points. just wondering ? why? > On May 11, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Back in the summer of 1990, maybe '91, my wife and I took a vacation in Wales and England.? And gosh, somehow our trip just happened to coincide with the TR Register's 21st annual gathering.? That was an amazing event, relly? enjoyed it. > > One of the many vendors was Racetorations.? They had on display a tube shock conversion kit that was this fancy, intricate bit of welded aluminum plate that was in the style of bolt to the original shock mounts.? A bit past prototype, but not quite production ready, I ended up buying the kit for my TR-250 I had at the time.? One car I really wish I had not sold. > > Anyway, we came within a minute or two of missing our flight back to the States because the customs guys at Heathrow were absolutely, positively certain that the bright yellow metal cylinders in my suitcase, the Spax shocks, were actually some sort of bombs.? I can't recall for certain, but I think I ended up showing them an ad in some magazine that featured Spax shocks that convinced them to let me through with my prized acquisition.? It was close, though! > > mjb. > > ps:? I also have a set of those amazing, wonderful brackets that just bolt to the body sheet metal.? Such classic parts must be worth a small fortune! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > Life is too short to drive Boring Cars _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 05:28:08 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 11:28:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3677117.971457.1589282888613@mail.yahoo.com> Remember, these frames are over 40 years old and were not terribly robust to begin with.? The leverage applied by the lever shocks is no different than that applied by these brackets and I suspect your frame would have failed in either case. ?One big difference is that if you don't have good bump stops the shock can bottom out and put higher than normal stress on this part.? With the lever shocks the trailing arm will hit the frame with a colossal wack.? If the tube shock bottoms out first you won't get that audible warning. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Stan Foster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 8:43 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion #yiv7000309789 #yiv7000309789 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7000309789 #yiv7000309789 p.yiv7000309789MsoNormal, #yiv7000309789 li.yiv7000309789MsoNormal, #yiv7000309789 div.yiv7000309789MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7000309789 a:link, #yiv7000309789 span.yiv7000309789MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7000309789 span.yiv7000309789EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7000309789 .yiv7000309789MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv7000309789 div.yiv7000309789WordSection1 {}#yiv7000309789 It took over 10 years to do it but eventually the leverage from that bolt on rear shock conversion bracket tore the side out of the flimsy sheet metal cross member. ? ? From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf OfYahoo via 6pack Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:12 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion ? An old topic,? but came up recently from the mgb side of my club? ? ?john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets.? ?I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see.? ? After some of the horror storis about this conversion,? ?I might not do it again? Cheers? ?bruce simms Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 211849 bytes Desc: not available URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue May 12 05:28:36 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 07:28:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> I may be in the minority, but I am a fan of my Racetorations shock conversions on my 250s. Compared to the TR5, it feels like a firmer ride. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Stan, Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. Thanks, Greg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Tue May 12 06:19:26 2020 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 12:19:26 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I do around 1200 miles a year in the TR6. It was a bumpy dirt road that finally broke the mount and I would say the welds holding the crossmember to the frame were pretty iffy to start with and I had never once checked to see if any were starting to crack. I bet if I had I would have spotted this starting to fail and fix it without a ratco replacement crossmember. Stan From: Greg Lemon Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Stan, Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. Thanks, Greg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Tue May 12 07:50:13 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 13:50:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1018720594.1021390.1589291413777@mail.yahoo.com> Hi All - I wasn't going to jump in on this one, but I just wanted to chime in on a couple of notes. The two things that the bolt-in-place of the stock shock units (not all!) seem to lack is: 1. the lower bump stop (the upper stop is that squarish thing in the wheel well, so no need to duplicate that) and 2. the ability to compensate for the arc of motion of the trailing arm. 1 is easy to deal with, but you need to be careful that you don't wind up with sudden loss of motion else the car will handle in an evil manner at the limits. 2 is also easy to deal with provided you use a compliant mount (upper and lower) to allow the shock mount to sort of swivel. If you go too stiff on the mounts, the energy has to transfer somewhere, hence the broken frame mounts and/or cracks. The shock that mounts through the stock spring location, more or less like a coil-over is okay but you are limited to how big of a shock you can fit in there and that limits how effective the system will be. The main problem there is that the center line of the spring intersects with the wheel so basically it's "little shocks" or nothing. For hard driving applications, the result would be degredation of damping as the oil in the shock heat up (and then foams or whatever). In a street car, you probably would never see this except in the worst roads over a long period. Regarding the advantages of the lever shock - most importantly, lever shocks add the least amount of unsprung mass to the suspension. Depending on how you mount your tube shock, you might be adding unsprung weight and that's going to effect handling. All that said, for tuning suspension, the shocks are the last final fine tuning, not the beginning of a handling tune. Keep that in mind. FWIW, I run modified levers for my race car. They work great. They don't give the same amount of adjustability that a modern coil-over might provide, but for the way I use the car, they work great. So, plus one for World-Wide from this owner. Do think about the upgrade to the adjustable option - it is worth the extra money. These are sometimes referred to as Armstrong 22's which is a throwback reference to what was offered back in the day. Regards,Bob Lang On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, 8:54:13 AM EDT, Stan Foster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: I do around 1200 miles a year in the TR6. It was a bumpy dirt road that finally broke the mount and I would say the welds holding the crossmember to the frame were pretty iffy to start with and I had never once checked to see if any were starting to crack. I bet if I had I would have spotted this starting to fail and fix it without a ratco replacement crossmember. ? Stan ? From: Greg Lemon Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion ? Stan,? ? Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years?? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. ? Thanks, Greg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 05:43:59 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 11:43:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> Picture? Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 'Greg Lemon' ; 'Stan Foster' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 6:28 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion #yiv5988256702 #yiv5988256702 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5988256702 #yiv5988256702 p.yiv5988256702MsoNormal, #yiv5988256702 li.yiv5988256702MsoNormal, #yiv5988256702 div.yiv5988256702MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5988256702 span.yiv5988256702EmailStyle18 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv5988256702 .yiv5988256702MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv5988256702 div.yiv5988256702WordSection1 {}#yiv5988256702 I may be in the minority, but I am a fan of my Racetorations shock conversions on my 250s.? Compared to the TR5, it feels like a firmer ride. ?Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan ?From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion ? Stan,? ?Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years?? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. ?Thanks, Greg_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 05:43:59 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 11:43:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> Picture? Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 'Greg Lemon' ; 'Stan Foster' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 6:28 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion #yiv5988256702 #yiv5988256702 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5988256702 #yiv5988256702 p.yiv5988256702MsoNormal, #yiv5988256702 li.yiv5988256702MsoNormal, #yiv5988256702 div.yiv5988256702MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5988256702 span.yiv5988256702EmailStyle18 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv5988256702 .yiv5988256702MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv5988256702 div.yiv5988256702WordSection1 {}#yiv5988256702 I may be in the minority, but I am a fan of my Racetorations shock conversions on my 250s.? Compared to the TR5, it feels like a firmer ride. ?Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan ?From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion ? Stan,? ?Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years?? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. ?Thanks, Greg_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brakey6666 at gmail.com Tue May 12 08:56:45 2020 From: brakey6666 at gmail.com (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 10:56:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion Message-ID: The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. Good luck with that Glenn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Tue May 12 14:47:14 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 15:47:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It's British -- "Aluminium" Greg On Tue, May 12, 2020, 3:18 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Wow. Fancy. All aluminum. > > Dave > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com Tue May 12 14:47:38 2020 From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Richard Taylor) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 13:47:38 -0700 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) Dick > On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. > The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. > The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. > If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. > This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. > Good luck with that > Glenn > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com > From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 15:10:08 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:10:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1281129734.74216.1589317808820@mail.yahoo.com> Oh, bugger all.? I must have been daft to say aluminum. Cherio Dave -----Original Message----- From: Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 3:47 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion It's British -- "Aluminium" Greg On Tue, May 12, 2020, 3:18 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Wow.? Fancy.? All aluminum. Dave???? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 15:10:08 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:10:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1281129734.74216.1589317808820@mail.yahoo.com> Oh, bugger all.? I must have been daft to say aluminum. Cherio Dave -----Original Message----- From: Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 3:47 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion It's British -- "Aluminium" Greg On Tue, May 12, 2020, 3:18 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Wow.? Fancy.? All aluminum. Dave???? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed May 13 16:00:36 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 16:00:36 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage Message-ID: <92d765a1-cbc1-393b-15fa-34be71cb1b08@bradakis.com> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.? Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened.? Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.? That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities.? We've contacted some professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable.? And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long.? So be aware of that possibility.? If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.? It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again.? Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 13 16:52:26 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 18:52:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage In-Reply-To: <92d765a1-cbc1-393b-15fa-34be71cb1b08@bradakis.com> References: <92d765a1-cbc1-393b-15fa-34be71cb1b08@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <013a01d62979$2d5783a0$88068ae0$@uprichard.net> But were the cars OK?? Andrew -----Original Message----- From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis via 6pack Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 6:01 PM To: list 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars. Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened. Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire. That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities. We've contacted some professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable. And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long. So be aware of that possibility. If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance. It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again. Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com Wed May 13 16:55:41 2020 From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Richard) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:55:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> References: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> Message-ID: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> Ah Mitch....you cheated!! Dick > On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: > > I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. > > > > > > > Mitch Seff > >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >>> >>> Dick >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >>> Good luck with that >>> Glenn >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com Wed May 13 16:55:41 2020 From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Richard) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:55:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> References: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> Message-ID: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> Ah Mitch....you cheated!! Dick > On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: > > I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. > > > > > > > Mitch Seff > >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >>> >>> Dick >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >>> Good luck with that >>> Glenn >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net From colinthom at shaw.ca Thu May 14 13:34:53 2020 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (COLIN THOM) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 13:34:53 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 11 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <171084253.291181209.1589484893078.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> Thank you, Mark! With all that damage, please don't worry about a 1 hour lag in email transmission. In these times, that's hardly relevant. Be safe Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 11:00:03 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 11 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Possible Team Net outage (Mark J Bradakis) 2. Re: Possible Team Net outage (andrew uprichard) 3. Re: rear shock conversion (Richard) 4. Re: rear shock conversion (Richard) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 16:00:36 -0600 From: Mark J Bradakis To: list 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage Message-ID: <92d765a1-cbc1-393b-15fa-34be71cb1b08 at bradakis.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.? Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened.? Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.? That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities.? We've contacted some professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable.? And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long.? So be aware of that possibility.? If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.? It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again.? Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 18:52:26 -0400 From: "andrew uprichard" To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" Cc: , <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage Message-ID: <013a01d62979$2d5783a0$88068ae0$@uprichard.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" But were the cars OK?? Andrew -----Original Message----- From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis via 6pack Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 6:01 PM To: list 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars. Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened. Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire. That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities. We've contacted some professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable. And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long. So be aware of that possibility. If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance. It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again. Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:55:41 -0700 From: Richard To: Mitchel Seff Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] rear shock conversion Message-ID: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A at yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Ah Mitch....you cheated!! Dick > On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: > > I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. > > > > > > > Mitch Seff > >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >>> >>> Dick >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >>> Good luck with that >>> Glenn >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:55:41 -0700 From: Richard To: Mitchel Seff Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] rear shock conversion Message-ID: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A at yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Ah Mitch....you cheated!! Dick > On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: > > I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. > > > > > > > Mitch Seff > >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >>> >>> Dick >>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >>> Good luck with that >>> Glenn >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 11 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue May 12 13:36:56 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 15:36:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> Here you go From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 7:44 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; grglmn at gmail.com; stan at redtr6.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Picture? Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > To: 'Greg Lemon' >; 'Stan Foster' > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 6:28 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion I may be in the minority, but I am a fan of my Racetorations shock conversions on my 250s. Compared to the TR5, it feels like a firmer ride. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > On Behalf Of Greg Lemon via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster > Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Stan, Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. Thanks, Greg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: rear shock.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 356877 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 14:17:56 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 20:17:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> Wow.? Fancy.? All aluminum. Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; grglmn at gmail.com; stan at redtr6.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 2:36 pm Subject: RE: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion #yiv2599262246 #yiv2599262246 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2599262246 #yiv2599262246 p.yiv2599262246MsoNormal, #yiv2599262246 li.yiv2599262246MsoNormal, #yiv2599262246 div.yiv2599262246MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2599262246 a:link, #yiv2599262246 span.yiv2599262246MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2599262246 span.yiv2599262246EmailStyle26 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv2599262246 .yiv2599262246MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv2599262246 div.yiv2599262246WordSection1 {}#yiv2599262246 Here you go ?From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 7:44 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; grglmn at gmail.com; stan at redtr6.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion ?Picture? ?Dave ? ?-----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 'Greg Lemon' ; 'Stan Foster' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 6:28 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversionI may be in the minority, but I am a fan of my Racetorations shock conversions on my 250s.? Compared to the TR5, it feels like a firmer ride.?Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan?From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion? Stan,? ?Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years?? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine.?Thanks, Greg_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue May 12 14:29:24 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 16:29:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1100488623.468211.1589170329335.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1100488623.468211.1589170329335@mail.yahoo.com> <008601d62850$7afd1770$70f74650$@uprichard.net> <295384566.984590.1589283839162@mail.yahoo.com> <010301d62894$b32c15d0$19844170$@uprichard.net> <1421433199.46417.1589314676961@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000b01d6289c$07831a50$16894ef0$@uprichard.net> As my father used to say about my mother, ?satisfied with the best ? !! From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 4:18 PM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; grglmn at gmail.com; stan at redtr6.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Wow. Fancy. All aluminum. Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard > To: 'DAVID MASSEY' >; grglmn at gmail.com ; stan at redtr6.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 2:36 pm Subject: RE: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Here you go From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 7:44 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net ; grglmn at gmail.com ; stan at redtr6.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Picture? Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > To: 'Greg Lemon' >; 'Stan Foster' > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 6:28 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion I may be in the minority, but I am a fan of my Racetorations shock conversions on my 250s. Compared to the TR5, it feels like a firmer ride. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > On Behalf Of Greg Lemon via 6pack Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:55 AM To: Stan Foster > Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion Stan, Curious, how many miles and how did you use the car in 10 years? I am sitting at about 10 years and maybe 12,000 miles on mine. Thanks, Greg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ms6453 at gmail.com Wed May 13 16:32:22 2020 From: ms6453 at gmail.com (Mitchel Seff) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 18:32:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 31176 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 93200 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Mitch Seff >>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >> >> Dick >>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >> Good luck with that >> Glenn >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net From ms6453 at gmail.com Wed May 13 16:58:13 2020 From: ms6453 at gmail.com (Mitchel Seff) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 18:58:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> References: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <38653D0E-9080-4A1E-BF07-6380B7E97D38@gmail.com> Hey Dick, It?s only cheating if ya get caught ? Mitch Seff > On May 13, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Richard wrote: > > ?Ah Mitch....you cheated!! > > Dick > >> On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: >> >> I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Mitch Seff >> >>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>>> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >>>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >>>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >>>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >>>> >>>> Dick >>>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>>>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >>>>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >>>>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >>>>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >>>>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >>>>> Good luck with that >>>>> Glenn >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net > From ralittle2 at mac.com Wed May 13 17:54:24 2020 From: ralittle2 at mac.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 19:54:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> References: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Does any of this help with mental fatigue? Ashford Little ralittle2 at mac.com > On May 13, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Richard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Ah Mitch....you cheated!! > > Dick > >> On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: >> >> I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Mitch Seff >> >>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>>> ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. >>>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. >>>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. >>>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) >>>> >>>> Dick >>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >>>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. >>>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. >>>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. >>>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. >>>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. >>>> Good luck with that >>>> Glenn >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ralittle2 at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Sun May 17 05:27:52 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 07:27:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild Message-ID: I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. Any advice would be appreciated. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 From rgperry at earthlink.net Sun May 17 05:56:19 2020 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 06:56:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild Message-ID: <1605006618.274.1589716579955@wamui-megara.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Robert, I would just get high temp red grease tube for the grease gun. They are only around $5. As far as brake fluid I would use DOT 5.0 brake fluid. I went 20 years without rebuilding the brake and clutch master cylinders and wheel / slave cylinders on my TR6. The only reason that I had to rebuild/ replace them was due to adding DOT 5.1 brake fluid to the DOT 5.0 brake fluid. They do not mix well and took some time to fail. I remembered DOT 5 something at the time of the purchase of the DOT 5.1. Regards, Robert -----Original Message----- >From: Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> >Sent: May 17, 2020 6:27 AM >To: list Triumph , "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild > >I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > Any advice would be appreciated. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgperry at earthlink.net > From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sun May 17 06:58:54 2020 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 07:58:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello Bob, *et al.*, Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an *All Clear* has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" -rick On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of > quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home > order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some > business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past > I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them > catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can > improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review > the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, > but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake > grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or > should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red > grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus > $8.00 shipping. > Any advice would be appreciated. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Sun May 17 07:44:02 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:44:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Hi Richard, I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. Best, Bob > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Hello Bob, et al., > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > -rick > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > Any advice would be appreciated. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lfm614 at aol.com Sun May 17 09:09:15 2020 From: lfm614 at aol.com (Luis) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 10:09:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 17 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83F0829B-AD8D-4CAE-B444-5D75E3D102F0@aol.com> When I rebuilt mine 10 years ago with a kit from TRF I used one of those little packs of brake grease found at the FLAPs check out counter. I use DOT5 in both systems with no problems since then. Lou 72 Pimento > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Master Cylinder Rebuild (Robert Rochlin) > 2. Re: Master Cylinder Rebuild (Robert Perry) > 3. Re: Master Cylinder Rebuild (Richard Lindsay) > 4. Re: Master Cylinder Rebuild (Robert Rochlin) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 07:27:52 -0400 > From: Robert Rochlin > To: list Triumph , "6pack at autox.team.net" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > Any advice would be appreciated. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 06:56:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00) > From: Robert Perry > To: list Triumph , "6pack at autox.team.net" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild > Message-ID: > <1605006618.274.1589716579955 at wamui-megara.atl.sa.earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Robert, > > I would just get high temp red grease tube for the grease gun. They are only around $5. As far as brake fluid I would use DOT 5.0 brake fluid. I went 20 years without rebuilding the brake and clutch master cylinders and wheel / slave cylinders on my TR6. The only reason that I had to rebuild/ replace them was due to adding DOT 5.1 brake fluid to the DOT 5.0 brake fluid. They do not mix well and took some time to fail. I remembered DOT 5 something at the time of the purchase of the DOT 5.1. > > Regards, > > Robert > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> >> Sent: May 17, 2020 6:27 AM >> To: list Triumph , "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> >> Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild >> >> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >> Any advice would be appreciated. >> Best, >> Bob >> ?72 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgperry at earthlink.net >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 07:58:54 -0500 > From: Richard Lindsay > To: Robert Rochlin > Cc: list Triumph , TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hello Bob, *et al.*, > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the > stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture > out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think > an *All Clear* has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them > luck. > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working > fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are > always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the > 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to > ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake > circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear > brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid > through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works > great today! > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China > just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C > "fail catastrophically?" > > -rick > >> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> >> wrote: >> >> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of >> quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home >> order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some >> business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past >> I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them >> catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can >> improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review >> the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, >> but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake >> grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or >> should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red >> grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus >> $8.00 shipping. >> Any advice would be appreciated. >> Best, >> Bob >> ?72 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:44:02 -0400 > From: Robert Rochlin > To: Richard Lindsay > Cc: list Triumph , "6pack at autox.team.net" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild > Message-ID: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Richard, > I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. > Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. > Best, > Bob > >> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: >> >> Hello Bob, et al., >> >> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. >> >> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? >> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! >> >> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" >> >> -rick >> >> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: >> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >> Any advice would be appreciated. >> Best, >> Bob >> ?72 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > ------------------------------ > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 17 > ************************************* From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Sat May 16 13:37:54 2020 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 19:37:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: References: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <180582221.197476.1589657874242@mail.yahoo.com> I?m chiming in later on this, but has anyone looked into the Revington coil over conversion??https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3003spk/name/damper-conversion-kit-rear-tr4a-6? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, May 16, 2020, 12:06 PM, Ashford Little via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Does any of this help with mental fatigue? ? Ashford Littleralittle2 at mac.com On May 13, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Richard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Ah Mitch....you cheated!! Dick On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. Mitch Seff On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) Dick On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. Good luck with that Glenn _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ralittle2 at mac.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mohawktriumphs at aol.com Sat May 16 15:31:20 2020 From: mohawktriumphs at aol.com (mohawktriumphs) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 17:31:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion References: Message-ID: Ahh , mental fatigue . It's from d.c. . . . Sent from my ASUS Pad Ashford Little via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mohawktriumphs at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Sun May 17 18:13:59 2020 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 19:13:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster Rebuild Message-ID: The brake booster on my TR250 has started to leak (I can hear is hissing). I assume the bladder inside is made with 50 year old rubber. I don't see rebuild parts listed by the usual suspects.? Is there a reputable rebuilder for these units, or is there an easy way to fix it? - Larry Young From grglmn at gmail.com Sun May 17 18:18:49 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 19:18:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > > I used these guys, little over $100, they turned it around in a couple > days, works like new (after buying a new one that did not work very well). Power Brake Exchange, Inc. (775) 297-4795 http://www.pwrbrake.com Greg Lemon TR250 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tom.lofgren at stanfordalumni.org Sun May 17 19:24:12 2020 From: tom.lofgren at stanfordalumni.org (Tom Lofgren) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:24:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've also used Power Brake Exchange (the one in San Jose), probably 5 times for different cars. They always do a great job. Tom '69 TR6 On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 5:22 PM Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > I used these guys, little over $100, they turned it around in a couple >> days, works like new (after buying a new one that did not work very well). > > > > Power Brake Exchange, Inc. > (775) 297-4795 > http://www.pwrbrake.com > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren at stanfordalumni.org > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rlpennington1 at yahoo.com Sun May 17 19:34:09 2020 From: rlpennington1 at yahoo.com (Rob Pennington) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 03:34:09 +0200 Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5637F126-6CBF-4709-84E4-E6AE541C8D95@yahoo.com> This company did a good job on the brake booster and relining the rear brake shoes for my TR6 back in 2013: Scott & Margaret Bethke Brake Materials & Parts Inc 800 Sherman Blvd Fort Wayne IN 46808 Phone: 260-426-3331 Fax: 260-424-1331 Email: BrakePartsSTOP at aol.com Website: http://www.BrakeMaterialsAndParts.webs.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/BrakeMaterialsAndParts Rob Pennington 74 TR6 > On May 18, 2020, at 3:24 AM, Tom Lofgren via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I've also used Power Brake Exchange (the one in San Jose), probably 5 times for different cars. They always do a great job. > > Tom > '69 TR6 > > > On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 5:22 PM Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > I used these guys, little over $100, they turned it around in a couple days, works like new (after buying a new one that did not work very well). > > > Power Brake Exchange, Inc. > (775) 297-4795 > http://www.pwrbrake.com > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren at stanfordalumni.org > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rlpennington1 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Mon May 18 06:34:58 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 08:34:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <19B91467-DF28-415D-A5A5-F4A92C90529C@comcast.net> Thanks for all the informed replies. I very much appreciate the advice. I did source hydraulic assembly grease form British Parts Northwest and will attempt to rebuild the master, and if that fails to repair the problem, I?ll source a new one. This is kind of one of those ?The journey is more important the destination? projects while I?m sticking around the house The master cylinder that I had totally fail had been re-sleeved as part of the original rebuild process. We are fortunate to have an array of options in repairing our old Triumph cars. In watching automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get replacement parts. In most cases we are only a phone call (mouse click) away from a part. After the m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the necessary maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary maintenance. Thanks again all for the help and suggestions. Stay safe. Best, Bob ?72 Tr6 > On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > > Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available? I like the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff. The price for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration. That my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy. > > But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners. > > On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE > wrote: > If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. > Good luck for good brakes. > Dave H. >> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin > wrote: >> >> Hi Richard, >> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. >> Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. >> Best, >> Bob >> >>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: >>> >>> Hello Bob, et al., >>> >>> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. >>> >>> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? >>> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! >>> >>> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" >>> >>> -rick >>> >>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: >>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >>> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >>> Any advice would be appreciated. >>> Best, >>> Bob >>> ?72 TR6 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >>> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon May 18 08:57:26 2020 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 14:57:26 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <19B91467-DF28-415D-A5A5-F4A92C90529C@comcast.net> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> , <19B91467-DF28-415D-A5A5-F4A92C90529C@comcast.net> Message-ID: "In watching automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get replacement parts. " I so hate watching a 30 minute commercial for the parts used. Regarding MC rebuild, some good advice once received was (1) rebuild clutch parts, (2) buy new brake parts. The difference seems obvious. Also, fix the brakes first. You can walk home from all else. Sloane ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Rochlin Robert via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 12:34 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; list Triumph Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild Thanks for all the informed replies. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 18 09:31:19 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 15:31:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> <19B91467-DF28-415D-A5A5-F4A92C90529C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <633085136.613395.1589815879179@mail.yahoo.com> I have to second this advice.? Brakes are not a good place to scrimp.? If the engine doesn't work, you don't go.? If the brakes don't work you don't stop. Actually you will stop.? Sometimes you can walk away from it. Dave -----Original Message----- From: im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, May 18, 2020 9:57 am Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild #yiv3141896145 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}"In watching automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get replacement parts.?" I so hate watching a 30 minute commercial for the parts used.?? Regarding MC rebuild, some good advice once received was (1) rebuild clutch parts, (2) buy new brake parts. The difference seems obvious.? Also, fix the brakes first. You can walk home from all else.? Sloane? From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Rochlin Robert via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 12:34 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; list Triumph Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild? Thanks for all the informed replies._______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From slbridge at hotmail.com Mon May 18 09:33:43 2020 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 15:33:43 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> , <19B91467-DF28-415D-A5A5-F4A92C90529C@comcast.net>, Message-ID: My Master was working fine, but I added about 40 horsepower and removed a lot of weight, so I thought all new brakes would be a good idea. My experience, along with friends who wrench on cars, suggests these parts coming from China have a tendency to fail. This is not an attack on China, they surely build to the specs and price point they are given. While I celebrate and appreciate the vendors making these parts available for us, it's just a fact that thermostats and other parts that used to be fine right out of the box nearly 100% of the time, now fail in unacceptable numbers. That's why I chose to rebuild my original MC instead of buying new from one of the vendors, and rebuild it with NOS factory parts. I would prefer fresher rubber parts, but these are the choices we face in today's hobby. For a while now, I have been buying vintage NOS parts on eBay as mechanics tell me that new parts, Moog for example they say, are not the parts Moog made 15 or 20 years ago. ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 2:57 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild "In watching automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get replacement parts. " I so hate watching a 30 minute commercial for the parts used. Regarding MC rebuild, some good advice once received was (1) rebuild clutch parts, (2) buy new brake parts. The difference seems obvious. Also, fix the brakes first. You can walk home from all else. Sloane ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Rochlin Robert via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 12:34 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; list Triumph Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild Thanks for all the informed replies. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun May 17 10:39:22 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:39:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. Good luck for good brakes. Dave H. > On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin wrote: > > Hi Richard, > I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. > Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. > Best, > Bob > > > > > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com mailto:richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: > > > > Hello Bob, et al., > > > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > > > -rick > > > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net mailto:6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > > > > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > > > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > > > Any advice would be appreciated. > > > Best, > > > Bob > > > ?72 TR6 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net mailto:6pack at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com Tue May 19 11:48:17 2020 From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Richard Taylor) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 10:48:17 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild References: <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: When one purchases a ?new? MC they are mostly buying one with a clean bore. The condition of the bore in a used one can be seen inspecting it by eye, or looking down the bore with the aid of a camera scope to check the one at the bottom. If these bores are good, or at least hone-able, then a simple replacement of parts that come in a rebuild kit makes it as good as what one hopes to get in a new one. Pocket the $75 savings and take your lady out for a nice dinner, in the TR6. There?s also the satisfaction that comes with doing it yourself that one can?t put a price on. If one isn?t comfortable in any of this, then perhaps just dropping (or towing) the car to an auto repair shop would be best. Dick > Begin forwarded message: > > From: DAVE HOGYE via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild > Date: May 17, 2020 at 9:39:22 AM PDT > To: Robert Rochlin , Richard Lindsay > Cc: list Triumph , 6pack at autox.team.net > Reply-To: DAVE HOGYE > > If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. > Good luck for good brakes. > Dave H. >> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin wrote: >> >> Hi Richard, >> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. >> Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. >> Best, >> Bob >> >>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: >>> >>> Hello Bob, et al., >>> >>> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. >>> >>> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? >>> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! >>> >>> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" >>> >>> -rick >>> >>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: >>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >>> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >>> Any advice would be appreciated. >>> Best, >>> Bob >>> ?72 TR6 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >>> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From colinthom at shaw.ca Tue May 19 18:45:39 2020 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (COLIN THOM) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 18:45:39 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <564906879.321797006.1589935539011.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> After a couple of go-rounds with rebuilt master cylinders, by myself and by the likes of Apple Hydraulics, I learned that the best approach is to replace it with a new one. They're not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 10:48:23 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 23 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild (DAVE HOGYE) 2. Fwd: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild (Richard Taylor) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:39:22 -0700 (PDT) From: DAVE HOGYE To: Robert Rochlin , Richard Lindsay Cc: list Triumph , 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild Message-ID: <1042483499.289465.1589733562892 at connect.xfinity.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. Good luck for good brakes. Dave H. > On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin wrote: > > Hi Richard, > I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. > Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. > Best, > Bob > > > > > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com mailto:richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: > > > > Hello Bob, et al., > > > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > > > -rick > > > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net mailto:6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > > > > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > > > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > > > Any advice would be appreciated. > > > Best, > > > Bob > > > ?72 TR6 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net mailto:6pack at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 10:48:17 -0700 From: Richard Taylor To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Fwd: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" When one purchases a ?new? MC they are mostly buying one with a clean bore. The condition of the bore in a used one can be seen inspecting it by eye, or looking down the bore with the aid of a camera scope to check the one at the bottom. If these bores are good, or at least hone-able, then a simple replacement of parts that come in a rebuild kit makes it as good as what one hopes to get in a new one. Pocket the $75 savings and take your lady out for a nice dinner, in the TR6. There?s also the satisfaction that comes with doing it yourself that one can?t put a price on. If one isn?t comfortable in any of this, then perhaps just dropping (or towing) the car to an auto repair shop would be best. Dick > Begin forwarded message: > > From: DAVE HOGYE via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild > Date: May 17, 2020 at 9:39:22 AM PDT > To: Robert Rochlin , Richard Lindsay > Cc: list Triumph , 6pack at autox.team.net > Reply-To: DAVE HOGYE > > If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. > Good luck for good brakes. > Dave H. >> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin wrote: >> >> Hi Richard, >> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. >> Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. >> Best, >> Bob >> >>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: >>> >>> Hello Bob, et al., >>> >>> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. >>> >>> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? >>> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! >>> >>> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" >>> >>> -rick >>> >>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: >>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >>> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >>> Any advice would be appreciated. >>> Best, >>> Bob >>> ?72 TR6 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >>> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 23 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu May 21 06:31:42 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 12:31:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: <180582221.197476.1589657874242@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0F029935-B0BB-499D-80A1-16EE3F9E1CA5@gmail.com> <95F204D4-DACD-482E-822B-042F705A051A@yahoo.com> <180582221.197476.1589657874242@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <461378015.1828605.1590064302323@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - I looked at that setup when it was first out, maybe the mid-90's. It's a very good setup. I think it would be better if there was a way to accommodate a remote reservoir so there'd be more fluid to reduce heat-related issues, but that's only applicable to a hard-core application. But regarding suspension motion, that is the ideal setup for a tube shock with the stock spring setup. Regards,Bob Lang On Sunday, May 17, 2020, 12:26:28 PM EDT, Jim Jones via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: I?m chiming in later on this, but has anyone looked into the Revington coil over conversion??https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3003spk/name/damper-conversion-kit-rear-tr4a-6? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, May 16, 2020, 12:06 PM, Ashford Little via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Does any of this help with mental fatigue? ? Ashford Littleralittle2 at mac.com On May 13, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Richard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Ah Mitch....you cheated!! Dick On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff wrote: I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. I?m not denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket. Mitch Seff On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: ?My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the bump rubbers. Also note here that i?m running the ?semi-comp? road springs, so it?s not often that all of the spring compression takes place. I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for some other reason. So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good damping effect. In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday gift from my bride of 30 years) Dick On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these from 1" thick wall tube. The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails completely and detaches from the frame. The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember. If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember. This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own issues. Good luck with that Glenn _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ralittle2 at mac.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 21 10:19:55 2020 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 12:19:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rear light sockets Message-ID: <0571bd8b-bef9-2007-2c84-0312f112672e@adelphia.net> Back when I was restoring my 72 in 2008 there was a vendor that sold replacement light sockets for the rear lights. As everyone knows the sockets supplied are not the best. I was just wondering if they are available from any of the US suppliers. I had to replace 2 bulbs today and I am thinking that maybe the reason they failed is the socket just does not hold the bulb that tight. I would like to replace the sockets with the upgraded version the next time I have to replace a bulb. Thanks, Bob From lee at automate-it.com Tue May 26 14:54:40 2020 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 15:54:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] rear light sockets Message-ID: <88214b3f08e032ce8e40024b6dd4caa9.squirrel@automate-it.com> Hi Bob, The upgraded sockets are described by Bob Danielson here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TailLights.htm So I contacted 'bluechips2001' and asked about availability. Here's his reply: "Hello Lee, Sorry but the UK mfg. of those sockets went out of business and we were not able to find a quality replacement. Thanks for the inquiry, Joe" So ... bummer, I thought those were a great upgrade. I have not found another useful source. The original-style holders are available from Moss and TRF: https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-stop http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?zoom=1.2&page=17#EG8 http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?zoom=1.2&page=17#EG9 Happy motoring! Lee On Thu, May 21, 2020 11:19, Bob via 6pack wrote: > Back when I was restoring my 72 in 2008 there was a vendor that sold > replacement light sockets for the rear lights. As everyone knows the sockets > supplied are not the best. > > I was just wondering if they are available from any of the US suppliers. > > > I had to replace 2 bulbs today and I am thinking that maybe the reason > they failed is the socket just does not hold the bulb that tight. I would like > to replace the sockets with the upgraded version the next time I have to > replace a bulb. > > Thanks, > > Bob From jattr6 at hotmail.com Tue May 26 16:47:42 2020 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 22:47:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] rear light sockets In-Reply-To: <88214b3f08e032ce8e40024b6dd4caa9.squirrel@automate-it.com> References: <88214b3f08e032ce8e40024b6dd4caa9.squirrel@automate-it.com> Message-ID: You could just make you own ground socket (that?s what I did and works perfectly) I?m sure you saw that write up ... I actually used an old socket connector to slide into the brake socket. In case that helps at all. > On May 26, 2020, at 1:55 PM, Lee Daniels via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ?Hi Bob, > > The upgraded sockets are described by Bob Danielson here: > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TailLights.htm > > So I contacted 'bluechips2001' and asked about availability. > Here's his reply: > > "Hello Lee, Sorry but the UK mfg. of those sockets went > out of business and we were not able to find a quality > replacement. Thanks for the inquiry, Joe" > > So ... bummer, I thought those were a great upgrade. I have not found another > useful source. The original-style holders are available from Moss and TRF: > https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse > https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-stop > > http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?zoom=1.2&page=17#EG8 > http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?zoom=1.2&page=17#EG9 > > Happy motoring! > Lee > > >> On Thu, May 21, 2020 11:19, Bob via 6pack wrote: >> Back when I was restoring my 72 in 2008 there was a vendor that sold >> replacement light sockets for the rear lights. As everyone knows the sockets >> supplied are not the best. >> >> I was just wondering if they are available from any of the US suppliers. >> >> >> I had to replace 2 bulbs today and I am thinking that maybe the reason >> they failed is the socket just does not hold the bulb that tight. I would like >> to replace the sockets with the upgraded version the next time I have to >> replace a bulb. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6 at hotmail.com > From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu May 28 10:16:22 2020 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 11:16:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings Message-ID: Hello friends, I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and I am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts houses, and the quality of the molding is poor. As you probably know, the molding is a springy metal core, covered in velour with a rubber edge to seal the door. Two problems immediately arose. The velour had threads hanging that when pulled (unintentionally), caused the velour to unravel leaving black fuzzy bits all over. But the bigger problem is that the metal liner, the bit that grips the car's metal seam. It's aluminum, not spring steel! It deforms upon installation the remains loose. I see two options: glue the molding on, or replace it with a higher quality product. I prefer the latter. What have you used? Satisfied? If so, please share the vendor's name. Rick, '75 TR6 and 8 other toys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emanteno at comcast.net Thu May 28 11:33:35 2020 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 12:33:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:28 PM Richard Lindsay wrote: > Hello friends, > I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and I > am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts houses, > and the quality of the molding is poor. > > I had a similar experience with a boot seal for my TR6 from one of the big parts houses. I had heard of this guy: https://macgregorukcarparts.com/ I called and spoke to Martin, ordered his boot seal and Bristleflex, and never looked back. NFI. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U original owner Highland Park, IL -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alansalvy at gmail.com Thu May 28 11:59:15 2020 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 13:59:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I would rate Maguire's # 1, but I usually use TRF because it is still nice and more reasonably priced. The rest are lesser quality. On Thu, May 28, 2020, 1:34 PM Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:28 PM Richard Lindsay < > richardolindsay at gmail.com> wrote: > >> Hello friends, >> I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and I >> am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts houses, >> and the quality of the molding is poor. >> >> > I had a similar experience with a boot seal for my TR6 from one of the big > parts houses. I had heard of this guy: > > https://macgregorukcarparts.com/ > > I called and spoke to Martin, ordered his boot seal and Bristleflex, and > never looked back. NFI. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U original owner > Highland Park, IL > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alansalvy at gmail.com Thu May 28 12:02:14 2020 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 14:02:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry That's MacGregor's. On Thu, May 28, 2020, 1:59 PM alan salvatore wrote: > I would rate Maguire's # 1, but I usually use TRF because it is still nice > and more reasonably priced. > The rest are lesser quality. > > On Thu, May 28, 2020, 1:34 PM Irv Korey wrote: > >> >> >> On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:28 PM Richard Lindsay < >> richardolindsay at gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Hello friends, >>> I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and >>> I am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts >>> houses, and the quality of the molding is poor. >>> >>> >> I had a similar experience with a boot seal for my TR6 from one of the >> big parts houses. I had heard of this guy: >> >> https://macgregorukcarparts.com/ >> >> I called and spoke to Martin, ordered his boot seal and Bristleflex, and >> never looked back. NFI. >> >> Irv Korey >> 74 TR6 CF22767U original owner >> Highland Park, IL >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri May 29 14:03:14 2020 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:03:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003401d635f4$3064c0d0$912e4270$@ranteer.com> + 1 on Macgregor I believe he also sells a ?box of gaskets,? everything you need for a particular car. They also have different colors of furflex seals to match the (interior or exterior) of your car From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Irv Korey Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 12:34 PM To: Richard Lindsay Cc: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Door moldings On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:28 PM Richard Lindsay > wrote: Hello friends, I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and I am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts houses, and the quality of the molding is poor. I had a similar experience with a boot seal for my TR6 from one of the big parts houses. I had heard of this guy: https://macgregorukcarparts.com/ I called and spoke to Martin, ordered his boot seal and Bristleflex, and never looked back. NFI. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U original owner Highland Park, IL -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stubeatty at aol.com Fri May 29 14:24:59 2020 From: stubeatty at aol.com (Stuart) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:24:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings In-Reply-To: <003401d635f4$3064c0d0$912e4270$@ranteer.com> References: <003401d635f4$3064c0d0$912e4270$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <05D2A470-B01D-42FB-9C29-092D112030F8@aol.com> I bought a set of door seals from him about 20 years ago. They fit great and are still looking good today. I?ve also bought carpet kits from him. Everything he sells is top notch. Never had a complaint! Stewart Beatty 76 Carmine Sent from my iPhone > On May 29, 2020, at 4:04 PM, dave wrote: > > ? > + 1 on Macgregor > > I believe he also sells a ?box of gaskets,? everything you need for a particular car. They also have different colors of furflex seals to match the (interior or exterior) of your car > > From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Irv Korey > Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 12:34 PM > To: Richard Lindsay > Cc: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Door moldings > > > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:28 PM Richard Lindsay wrote: > Hello friends, > I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and I am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts houses, and the quality of the molding is poor. > > > I had a similar experience with a boot seal for my TR6 from one of the big parts houses. I had heard of this guy: > > https://macgregorukcarparts.com/ > > I called and spoke to Martin, ordered his boot seal and Bristleflex, and never looked back. NFI. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U original owner > Highland Park, IL > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stubeatty at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stubeatty at aol.com Fri May 29 14:24:59 2020 From: stubeatty at aol.com (Stuart) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:24:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door moldings In-Reply-To: <003401d635f4$3064c0d0$912e4270$@ranteer.com> References: <003401d635f4$3064c0d0$912e4270$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <05D2A470-B01D-42FB-9C29-092D112030F8@aol.com> I bought a set of door seals from him about 20 years ago. They fit great and are still looking good today. I?ve also bought carpet kits from him. Everything he sells is top notch. Never had a complaint! Stewart Beatty 76 Carmine Sent from my iPhone > On May 29, 2020, at 4:04 PM, dave wrote: > > ? > + 1 on Macgregor > > I believe he also sells a ?box of gaskets,? everything you need for a particular car. They also have different colors of furflex seals to match the (interior or exterior) of your car > > From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Irv Korey > Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 12:34 PM > To: Richard Lindsay > Cc: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Door moldings > > > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:28 PM Richard Lindsay wrote: > Hello friends, > I recently installed new rubber door seals / moldings on my TR6, and I am disappointed. I purchased a seals kit from one of the big parts houses, and the quality of the molding is poor. > > > I had a similar experience with a boot seal for my TR6 from one of the big parts houses. I had heard of this guy: > > https://macgregorukcarparts.com/ > > I called and spoke to Martin, ordered his boot seal and Bristleflex, and never looked back. NFI. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U original owner > Highland Park, IL > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stubeatty at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: